This BOOMER Can't Scrap The BLOWN UP 327! Can It Be Saved?
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- Опубликовано: 16 мар 2024
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Last summer, we had a customer bring in a 327 Small Block Chevy that had been poorly rebuilt & consequently suffered a piston failure during a burnout competition. You can see the video of that teardown here: • The last shop did NOT ...
The 327 simply couldn't feasibly reach the customers desired output goals, so we ended up building them a 383 Stroker, which you can see the entire process of here: • Building A 383 Stroker...
As such, the customer left the 327 with us to deal with as we pleased, since he was just going to scrap it.... but can we salvage it? Stay tuned...
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Found the YT Certified expert you were expecting. He wanted you to make a threaded sleeve, drill it out, tap it, then cross drill from the original gallery.
I contemplated that to be honest 😂
Since you guys are in a unique situation with the oil gallery, will a high volume oil pump clear up potential oil starvation?
I have a steel 327 crank from my brothers estate, if you tell me the numbers to look for to confirm it’s origin and I can mic the journals maybe we can find a home for it?
@@JAMSIONLINE make sure you put a Mellings HV oil pump in ...and a washer under the spring to increase the oil pressure slightly,,,,,
this is going to be a must watch 327 build.... ps,, i had dubble hump heads....
The kindest thing you can say about the last guy is "they must have had a reason, but I don't know what it was"
Better to err on kindness. You might run into or even work with the individual or friends there of in the future... Also, the dolt might have learned his lesson my then.
Not that there is anything wrong with being kind, but it's really not about that. It's about being a professional.
It's not about only being kind. But also be respectful
Insert the South Park clip for the last machine shop. “Are you high or just stupid… i assure you I'm not high”
The previous work on this engine is terrible. Criticise the job not the engineer.
Totally agree with your dad on this one. The 327 with camel humps was the epitome of hot rod engines when I was a little kid. My dad always talked about those particular set ups.
Bill "Grumpy" Jenkins: with his 327 1972 Chevrolet Vega
If I had a nickel for every set of 461/462 heads I ported and polished and also did guide plates and 202 and 1.60’s on I’d be a happy man with more money saved than I do. I so enjoyed doing that work. I remember my first set of heads I did I was so proud of what I accomplished with what little equipment and experience I had at that time, that I couldn’t wait to run the engine. BTW it was a screamer!!
I followed David Vizard porting details for the Austin Mini 1275 A Series Even with standard cam it just revved and revved. I was changing up out of sympathy while it was still pulling. Just awesome what a good(?) port job can do.
the 283 and 327 earned their "mighty mouse" nickname with their lightness and ability to rev (and thus make HP) over the other OHC designs of the 1950's. Once folks started fooling around with the 350 after 1968, however, they learned "HP sells engines, torque wins races". especially when building a street engine--those extra cubic inches really helped coming off a corner. That said, a solid lifter 327 heading for 8,000 rpm with a rock crusher transmission rowed behind it, is as much music as a 3/4's flattie at full song.
some days, it's just fun to find old performance parts for cheap and slapping 'em together "for old times sake" and taking it out to travel back in time. even if it's just to remember how far we've come.
have one in my 56 chevy its a 331 an it is a runner
OH, MY, GOD! I have that block and heads sitting in my shop, right in front of the truck I pulled it out of.
I did a quick/ dirty/ cheap rebuild on a 307 so I could get some extra credit in automotive class when I was in high school in 1985. I still have the truck and both engines quietly awaiting me waking them from hibernation to return the to their former glory. Its almost time!
Still have that 307? 307 crank in a 350 block = big journal 327. Built a few in the past.
@@keepyourbilsteins Or.....and I'm just spit-ballin here......350 crank in a 350 block = 350...............just sayin.
And if you just really wanted a 3.25" stroke crank, you can order one from any manufacturer.
@AMurph79 Wasn't an option then. Was racing dirt super stock V8 and we could run a 327 or 350 sbc. Were given a much better cam if 327. It was a fools errand to build a 350.
I just found your channel What a fantastic video!!!
Thank you
I like the comment about oil not being smart.
Rebrazing would be the old school way. I would preheat up that block in that fancy oven of yours, get out the torch and melt out the old braze, then grind it out and rebraze it up properly. Drill and re-tap for new plug and fixed. The porosity in the last job was likely because they didnt clean the block. Looks like that block has been worked on by several guys, the last one being the worst.
I believe those are tapered threads on the plugs, so there's a high chance tightening the plug in place could crack the brazing off the block deform it.
I'm a newb so excuse me if this is stupid, but what about preheating and tig welding with something like ER309L. Then drilling out the old threads and threading for an insert and a smaller NPT plug?
@@2old2rodeoI was thinking along the same lines sir. Grind off the old weld. Preheat the block. Tig weld it shut or build up the wall enough so you can retap the hole. Then cool the block in a heat wrap and thermo blanket.
Speaking of welding cast iron. There is a company in Salt lake City Utah that specializes in welding cast iron blocks. I've seen them weld up broken mains.
@@2nickles647👍
I had the same thought, grind out all the old braze and threads, build up a new boss with braze, drill, and tap. My guess is the last guy went too far with the pipe tap and ended up with the two plugs trying to seal it off.
I love the comment about new dirt. I am a little bit older than the cleaning guy, so I was around when they filed for the patten on sand! I spent 45 years in the automotive repair business. starting in 1968. I am now retired. Enjoying your videos!
I'm a bit younger than you but I remember when sand was new enough that everyone was still saying "it'll never catch on" ;) I've no real experience in the automotive repair business myself but I knew some good old timers that started with steam and went on from there as the technology advanced. Those guys could do some real wizardry with that older equipment. They're all long gone now of course.
I take it you're referring to sand casting? Or sand for the core?
What did they use before sand?
@@dans_Learning_Curve Nope, just a variation of the humorous saying "I'm older than dirt". He's saying he's not older than dirt, but he remember when sand was patented ;) The saying I like using is "when I was young dinosaurs were already extinct, but their tracks were still fresh".
My high school students insist that when I was a kid WWJD meant What Will Jesus Do! I guess 35 years in the classroom takes its toll on a guy.
I am talking about people who say I am older than dirt then I tell them I was around when they filed the patten on sand, you have to have sand to make dirt!@@dans_Learning_Curve
I like this oil reroute idea, but I think my inherent ocd might make me install a higher output oil pump, nothing crazy just a bit up from stock. I seem to recall from a small block Chevy book theres a factory pump that came on the Camaro Z28's with a touch longer gears, of course one could also use a Melling pump in either higher pressure or higher volume - if its even necessary - just for peace of mind--lol
if memory serves--after too many years, too many beers--the Z28's oil pump had a different spring and the Rat had the longer gears. Too close to bedtime to go look it up :) But i would advise, when messing with the oil pump potential, to consider oil pan designs and changes to the block to move oil to where you want it. there's a little bit of power to be found in re-designing the OEM oil system meant for grandma.
Small blocks should run a minimum of 45 psi imo , ive striped lotsa motors with bad bearings, if the bottom clearances are to loose it will wipe the cam bearings, the SBC would have been way better as a side oiler like the big block
I was thinking the same thing about a higher pressure oil pump to better push the “dumb oil” to where it needs to go.
I think you guys did a fabulous job on that block to save it. It is the right thing to do. Not for nothing, when you're done, set it up in an engine stand and run it to see how well it worked. Now you have a new way to repair a block if needed. This can help on a special block knowing you can do this custom type of work.
@@jorgefernandez-mv8hu a dyno would do even better, since it puts the engine under load and tests the repair work. I agree with you, since this is a business, there's customers with rare blocks--or expensive diesel setups where the repair is cheaper.
I had an old school 327 that used a two-bolt, small-journal crank. The previous machinist had chamfered the outer corners of the main caps, welded bronze in the 'gaps,' then re-machined the corners so the caps were a fairly tight fit. It was bored, destroked, and the wrist pins drilled higher to avoid notching the 13:1 pistons (hoping for good flame travel). Running a roller, it spun to 10k without complaint, but made its best power at 8200. It ate your average 500 stroker for fun. Loved the 327. Best of luck with yours.
I did a similar repair on a Hercules 6 cyl gas marine engine. I drilled and lightly tapped the hole then filled it with Molton lead, while doing that I had my dad melt brass, when all things were ready I heated the lead out of the hole then poured the Molton brass directly behind the lead, I then poured table salt onto the pour to allow slow thermal loss while covering the block with an electric blanket. Then after a 3 day wait , the repair held. I was then able to machine the two oil ports
You guys should be very proud of your professionalism. In this age of throw away products, watching you guys save and better these engines is a treat for me. It is amazing how successful you can be when you dedicate the time to do a great job, instead of a satisfactory job. Great job, and thanks for what you do.
Totally. Who doesn't make a disposable engine these days? It started with cheap 4-bangers, but these days, global brands are cranking out ultra high tech $50k 8-cylinders that start burning 8 quarts of oil/month right out of warranty and then after a year of dealerships offering stopgap solutions, oil analysis, free oil changes, bogus computerized leak-down tests, etc.... engine pukes its guts right before your next payment is due.
Even the factory fixed things when they could easily just cast another block. Pretty cool to see the 60 year old factory repair they found
I'm so tired of LS's and Coyotes. This is going to be an awesome series. Old school SBC, I always loved the 327/365 You just don't see 327's anymore, even though a 327 is actually 5.354 Liters. It's the OG 5.3...without DOD, AFM.
Only Gen 4 LS had AFM/DOD, LT1 does as well.
And the LS are like this Factory:
293, 325, 346, 364, 376, 427. After market is 383 and 454.
I think I'm older than the janitor, lol, but a trick learned with those 461'is, after you get your final bore two bolt a head on and scribe the intake side from underneath. Just do some unshrouding on that side only and topside just make a slight ramp on the outer side of the bowl. Don't hog out the runners, that will slow down flow on that small displacement. Along with everything you're doing it will pick up amazing hp. An old Bill Jenkins trick that's not too well known. Love your videos guys!
Offset dowel pins in the deck can also move that head towards the header side of the block, to unshroud the combustion chamber a little bit by moving the centerline of the head relative to the centerline of the cylinder bore. You'll need a thicker intake gasket to take up the space and have to put on the head and look up the bore from the crankcase end to get it perfect.
Mondello did this trick also.
Mondello ported and polished my heads and the motor Dyno out at approx. 65 h.p. more .
It had a stock 365 h.p. aluminum intake, stock Holley 3310 and stock GM 11.25 to piston . 30 / 30 cam
Basically all Stock 327 365h.p. Vette motor.
The old Chevrolet hipo dealer. catalog had a fold out detailing where and how much you could grind away . It also gave casting thicknesses.
Maybe someone still has one they can lend you.
A newer old school trick were 1970 / 1971 LT-1 350 heads 486 X castings
Now all you need is a M- 22 Muncie and tri five body.
Have fun !!!!!
@@michaelandrecht7508 were those 1970-71 heads 486 or 186 castings!
@alertgasper That might work with a Ford but Chevy's have that mirror image valve spacing.
@@cliffwright9842 your right 186
63 cc 1.60 and 2.02
Congrats Dad and Grand-Dad on the new addition to the family! Nice work on that old 327.
Really appreciate the working dynamic Jim and Nicholas have with each other. Great partners, and what a plus that they're father and son.
I second this remark, obvious mutual respect and professionalism.
Boomer and Zoomer can work together .
Watching them really makes me miss my Old Man
I see several potential issues with using this block. The first is eight sleeves and core shift. Sleeving all eight on a 454 to make a 396 is one thing but dang that's a lot of cast iron to remove. But what would worry me the most would be main bearing lubrication starvation. Also the massive amount of oil going to the top end and the subsequent drainage back onto the crankshaft. I'd suggest mocking this up as a long block and measuring the oil pressure in as many places as possible before final assembly......just my random thoughts as an old engine builder/drag racer.
Agree totally, taking oil from the mains is a terrible idea
Oil flo from the lifter bores is going to be determined by their clearance , whether the oil is supplied from 5 points or 1 is'nt gonna change that , honesty how will this mod cause massive oil going to the top end if cleanses up there are correct ?
@@trevorspeedy6333 How is this taking oil from the mains when cleanses are not being changed ?
It’s entirely possible that with the extra holes there will be less oil pressure than was intended for those main bearings . I’m no structural engineer like these guys but that was the thought that came to my mind
@@shaolinfist8323 Your argument states that something is entirely possible because you don't understand it , Think about who or what trained you to believe that and why !
Thanks for the reminder that I know absolutely nothing about engines but I sure can’t get enough of hearing you guys troubleshoot and diagnose. God bless!
lol, I identify with you!
You could machine a long plug to fit in the oil gallery and have it extend past the damaged portion. You would drill a passage part way down the center of that plug on the oil feed side and drill an opening that aligns with the cam bore sort of like a banjo bolt.
Could even just center bore it then drill the horizontal once tight to save guess work .
Ive built alot of dirt track motors and a few street motors. I built a few 327s with double hump heads and it's always impressed me how well it ran
The hole that was drilled in the front of that cylinder head was most commonly to fit a later style head mounted alternator pivot, older Chevys did not mount the alternator here they used older style brackets in certain chassis etc. so many times someone would try to drill and tap for it. Certain later heads and accessory mounts
came with a bolt boss on the front of the head which can be seen in both later heads and aftermarket heads to make them universal and often theres a three bolt pattern seen here for mounting accessories most often alternator or power steering pump if I recall correctly, im almost 65 so dont quote me exactly-lol. I had a couple old 327's one with and one without the mounting hole boss
Yes, sir I did the same thing to a double hump head, but I had me a jig using the alternator mounting bracket to locate and hold the drill bit in place to drill and tap me a hole for the long bolt that goes through the alternator. Of course, I did not have the machined pad like the factory setup but with Loctite on the threads (of course the threads have to be super clean) there was no leakage. The drilled and tapped hole actually penetrated the casting and the Loctite help to seal up any leakage of oil getting through the threads. It worked out OK and there was no belt wear.
All 68 and later heads had accessory mounting boss’s. I, too drilled some for my 69 El Camino. It’s galley in my world, as well.
All 68 and later heads had accessory mounting boss’s. I, too drilled some for my 69 El Camino. It’s galley in my world, as well.
The 041 and 186 heads were two of the double hump heads that came with accessory bolt holes in them. It's amazing how far the aftermarket has come. They now sell new copies of these heads for people who want to keep it looking like original.
1969 and later heads were drilled for accessory's, 1968 and earlier were not drilled.
Edit: Also, people drilled the hole because some aftermarket Aluminum intake manifolds did not have the mounting hole on the front for the alternator bracket like the factory cast iron did, the set of 462's that I had someone drilled lower down on the Double Hump because it's thicker and flat there...
Love the quiet part of you 2 double teaming that teardown in the beginning like when you were getting the cam bearings out. No music, just the sound of the tools, and both of you working together perfectly silently.
I came across this very gallery plug issue on a 400 block. The boss was broken. I drilled and tapped 1/2-20 from the back of the block.
Next I ground a 45 deg. chamfer onto a 1/2-20 x 3/4 set screw. I then placed a 1/4" pin in the oil hole. With some blue Loctite I ran the
set screw in until it contacted the pin, withdrew the pin and that's it.
My hat is off to you and the many u tubers like you who share the knowledge that only comes from the school of hard knocks.
I hope that some day I will have the time to do the same.
I would probably drill and tap a suitable thread, screw a hollow insert down into the parent metal using Lock Tite or JB Weld, then drill the oil hole through the insert, putting the plug back into the insert. One problem is when drilling through into a hole is a piece of metal remaining attached inside where one can't get to it, where it can break loose later, wrecking a bearing. Ted
When I restrict oil to the drivers side lifter gallery in a small block Mopar. I only drill one 1/8" hole which is plenty of oil even for hydraulic lifters.
Well done, we add new oil squirters and block off passages for everything from 4 cylinders to V8s to Porsche engines for road racing. Retired now. Love the channel and Thank you for sharing
I got paid in the end from a guy i new for 6 years an called a friend....1,000 dollars for complety rebuilding 2 1963 283s with 2speed power glide's... neither one had ever been out of the car ever. Any way got them done 2 months latter 100% running machine's
Then got told i wasn't needed unless I was needed ....was a flooring experience... lurning something a real hard way about people... an the word.... friend....an to get payed up frount no matter who it is.... Great video 👍👍👍
Wow takes me back to the 327 I put in my 1956 Chevy Bellaire long long ago now .
I pray your right now .
I am so looking to see it fixed and running again now.
God bless y'all
a old engine builder taught me to heat up the plugs hot then put a candle on plug and let it melt and cool . have had good luck doing it this way
The cleaning guy is my kinda man!!
The most winning street stock engine I ever built ( 2 points championships )
Was originally an engine I was putting in the scrap bin.
Originally out of a 70s Z28. That thing was more rough than what yall have there.
Just shows with enough talent and labor it's possible to rebuild these old scrap small blocks!
"yall"? couldn't find it in the dictionary
@@donwest5387 you've got a garbage dictionary then...
Excellent work. Whomever did that repair, probably didn't pack it to let it cool down slower. As a result, it cracked. I think you did a very logical, legitimate repair. Very well thought out.
I’d kinda like to see it as stroked, and poked with new tech. The pendulum cut crank, 1.88 rod journal, modern thin ring pack, beehive springs, roller cam, roller rockers, and good dual plane. It would be cool to see all the the low friction, lightweight parts in action. To see how much improvement can really be made over an engine that was built 40-50 years ago.
Another lightweight trick would be 8mm valve stems, like an LS. Less weight and more air flow!
Great ideas! Looks like they're all going to work just fine. Just a thought for future reference. When I was in weld shop we use silicone impregnated bronze rod and welded it for lack of a better term, with a tig torch, to cast iron. It seemed to work real well. We never had any issues with any cast that we repaired that way.
I would bore that broken hole out a tad larger and then press a long dowel in it. You could drill a blind hole into the dowel from the inboard end (the end that'll go into the block) Then once it's in you could cross drill it from that rear cam bearing groove.
I come here for the awesome engine rebuilds.. but a appreciate the banter you and your old man display. You guys are a class act, great stuff. thanks for sharing.
I thought it was pretty well-known that even if you buy an aftermarket head, one should take them to a machinist like you to check things over. And usually they need a relatively lot of work done, despite of being brand new.
Big block Buick 455 feeds the entire driver side lifter oil gallery from the front cam bearing alone, common mod for the BBB is to groove behind the front cam bearing journal in the block to provide more oil to the driver side lifters, early blocks had problems with this as they were not grooved form the factory (pre mid 70's).
I am LOVING watching this series! Can't wait to see how it turns out. It's so good to see that there's still the old American "can do" spirit.
@27:00 that's your classic 'ran when parked'.
@29:08 it's so nice to see a RUclips channel that regularly pulls dowels have the right tool...
That was, by far, the best ever segway to the videosponsor I've seen. Like You just grabed the moment. I really love the chemestry between the both of you. I am not in to engines or or anything motor related at all. I don't understand anything about "lifters" and "valve clearence" or "top dead centers".But this, this is a story about a passionate guy and his son.
The best Ive ever seen is Richie from Rich Rebuilds. His "scripts" are just brilliant, full of inside jokes, double entendres, and tongue-in-cheek racial references. His Squarespace ads are the best.
When I was working at the Chevy dealership in the late 60s, there was a small block with a pin hole in the casting in that same oil gallery. They put 2 rear main seals in it before they found the oil running down from above the crankshaft. I don't remember how the old mechanic fixed it.
Probably welded the pinhole
@@shadowopsairman1583 I don't know if you can weld when there is oil inside the pinhole which may be bigger underneath the hole. I didn't see him do it since I only worked after school and Saturday.
@@shadowopsairman1583 I'm72 now,but did some repair for Gm,in the early 70's.Ifwe had a leak,like the one here,we used nickel rod(Almost a wire!)and heated the block with a torch,and welded it....never had a problem.
I quit wrenching 4 yrs ago,due to getting sore from climbing up and down,all the time.
When I build BBC's, I make them "droolers" in that I drill small passages to lube the timing set, groove the dizzy lower flange to feed the cam/dizzy gear, etc. I want oil flow everywhere you get common late life failures. SBC's are somewhat different. These are interesting approaches 😀
On further pondering, I think I'd drill the left side front plug (left lifter galley) to squirt on the back of the timing set 🙃
I guess you are going to use grooved cam bearings all the way through ... That should equalize pressures throughout 😊
What are you talking about grooved cam bearings when the block is already grooved ??
I think I would have tried to sleeve the oil gallery plug boss using a threaded brass sleeve and re drilled the factory hole. atleast then the oil flow is not in question to be compromised.
This is almost exactly the motor that a friend of mine found hiding in a grocery get'er '68 Malibu with 307 badges on the fenders. Bench seat, trailer hitch, Auto tree shifter, skinny white wall tires, crochet'ed seat cover... We thought we were tearing out the motor to throw it away. That was a fun car when he was done with it.
You guys are fantastic.Unfortualy a rare thing.Many shop have a low bar standard.Plus employees can lack a passion for work.Love seeing how you do things. Your collaboration .😊
back when dirt was new 😊 it was nearly impossible to track someone , foot prints were unheard of
New dirt and new rain...😅😅
Just watching y'all work together and banter back and forth brings joy to my heart. ❤
With the bead blasting. I'm a mechanic in Australia, the shop next door was an engine machine shop where I used to work. I used to use their bead blaster, they had a whole heap of studs they would put in the bolt holes, I was doing a head one day in their bead blaster, They said to use the studs.
Well, I have to agree with them as the time it took to clean out all the bead from the bolt holes was longer than the blasting it's self.
I also Evapo Rusted a set of Holden V8 heads and then showed them, and then Brian looked into a cheaper alternative, this is because the hot tank fluid these days is less corrosive for safety.
I also once used hydrochloric acid to clean out a very rusty block in the water jackets, it worked good.
Most of the time those .100 long Honda crank pin cranks are offset ground. So there inside the original diameter of the stock stroke with stock rod and would require no grinding or clearing. We used to do it back in the day to a stock 400 sec crank and use small journal rods to make 415 sec on the cheap. Keep up the good work and congrats on the baby.
So you were making a 3.80" (there abouts) stroke crank from a 3.75 .... so what piston were you using ?
One thingt that really helps when pulling rocker studs is to take a little time with the lathe and make up a few spacers and then use a tapperd or thrust bearing on the bottom of the 'stack' when removing removing the studs on chevy,Pontiac etc.studs.
One other way to retain the rocker studs was to pin them.Oil galley and water plugs if heated red hot then let cooled down come right out.Neat project brings back memories.As kids we tried to start with better pieces but they were a dime a dozen.Hopefully you guys will dyno it!
I remember that. Back when we didn't have the fancy tools to deck the studs. A fella I knew did this. It's been a long time though..
I have a set of 69 sbc heads rebuilt sitting on a shelf in my garage, pinned studs, stainless valves, bronze guids etc. some day I will plop them on something.
November 3rd, 1965 heads. Nice set of 461 double humps. I had some from a couple months later on my '72 Camaro 350 and they worked really well. I'm excited to see this build all the way through.
Those heads were cast exactly one week after I was born!
I remember we had a 327 in our family car a 67' Caprice. First car I ever got to drive.
Oil restrictors are often used in the of these 2 galleries on performance motors. The hole in the restrictors is only 0.0625 thou. They limit the amount of oil that gets to the rockers and stuck in the top end, due to poor drainage at high RPM. Google sbc oil restrictors to see what they look like.
You did not mention how much oil pressure is required to make this mod work ?
Randy Marsh at 12:13 made my day 😂😂😂😂
I love that you guys have the similar twisted humor I have. Heating that drain plug when using the Torque Multiplier, and hearing Randy Marsh "Hotothotothot!!" As he craps the record💩.
383 that lives in my 66 Chevy II has that vintage look, heads and all. Aluminum intake and Q-jet, runs like a watch. Roller hydraulic cam mind you.
Pressure is the resistance to flow. Flow will follow the path of least resistance. So long as the pump can maintain the volume of oil and the main passages don't restrict the greater volume requirement of combined circuits it should work.
Well sir, with all of the aftermarket stuff available especially on the Chevrolet engines, one can come up with any combination of cubic inch displacement. I have a .060 over later model 327 engine (one of those that had the larger journal crankshaft I think that 1968 was the last year for the 327, although a crankshaft from a 307 was the same). This makes it around a 335 cubic inch displacement. A common thing back in the day was to go .030 over making the engine a 331 cubic inch displacement. Of course, one could use a 350 block and run the 307 crank and get the same bore and stroke combination to come up with a 327 (of course requiring a 350 block that has a good standard bore. It would not be period correct for the block, but it would get the same results. I do agree with you wanting to retain the original castings as like yourself when I was a young man that was the stuff of the day.
42:51 An award winning shot. Nice. 👍
I say as long as it builds oil pressure, run it. Displayed oil pressure on the gauge is un-used oiling as you know, so as long as there's pressure, everything is getting oiled. Congratulations on the new shop hand!
just grind out the braze and weld it with a cast welding rod. but you might just put a nicer high volume pump into make sure its ok.
The 327 has always been a favorite of mine. Thanks for doing this.
Looking forward to the F head Jeep motor.
I bought a '52 Willys 1 ton 4wd. P/U from my maternal Grandpa when I was 14 in 1987 and my Dad and I rebuilt it. It was the first engine I ever pulled and rebuilt.
When tuned right you could put a glass of water on the fender at idle and it wouldn't even ripple!
I had to sell it in college but bought it back.
It's getting 4 wheel disc brakes, and probably an aluminum Buick V-8 replacement and over-drive, but the ol' 134 F head will always have a place in my heart!
If I can ever find a reasonably priced flat fender CJ or MB, and the right carburetor to fit under the hood, the 134 might still have a life to live.
I did have a machine shop once break off a chunk off that oil gallery boss on a 350" block trying to remove the plug, had to scrap the block - I was not happy but it was partly my fault as I was trying to remove all the plugs before taking it in for rebuild and the Snap-on allen head socket snapped off inside it complicating the plug removal. I would have been better off letting them tackle it. Even though I used heat on the boss it broke, I was mad at myself because it was a good block that had never been raced rebuilt or damaged, perfect candidate for a good rebuild.
One Sunday afternoon, I was at my Cousin Terry's house. He had factory ordered a 1964 red and white Pontiac 327 with a 4 speed manual. He got a phone call asking him to show 3 college of Engineering students doing 0 to Sixty in 8 seconds. He not only took it to "60" but past the 60 mark because Terry said the speedometer was a bit off. We went out to the Regina highway. Each student pulled out their money when Cousin Terry showed them what a 327 could do. Terry told them to put away their money. Cousin Terry passed away in Sept. 2023. I will never forget that Sunday afternoon. 😊
Sorry for your loss... Sounds like you lost a great Fella and friend as well as a Family member.
RIP Cousin Terry.
327 Chevy or 326 Pontiac?
Must be a Canadian car. Lotta Pontiacs up there with Chevy motors. Some even had Chevy bodies with different grilles!
@@micahap1559Probably a Canadian-built Pontiac, like a Beaumont or Acadian. Rebadged Chevy's with different grilles. Also, Regina is a Canadian city.
@@micahap1559 Well, I blew that one. It was a Canadian Pontiac. It was a 327 and it had the 4 speed Muncie if I recall correctly. It was sold to another cousin who drove the wheels off the car. It was a great car whose engine was never touched. The car had oil changes at regular intervals. By the way, Cousin Terry could really shift that 4 speed. . . . those were the days alright.
I just love the way that father and son actually work together as peers. Very nice
Congratulations, mom and Nicolaus! Hope all are Healthy and Happy!
Congratulations on the new arrival.
On the lifter gallery, why not drill it out and drift a big block valve guide that is side drilled to accommodate the original path. Then just tap a plug into the end of it, it's in the back and all you'll see is a smaller brass plug.
Is the BB guide cast iron or bronze ?
@luckyPiston Manganese bronze with an OD of .545. is what I was thinking. This is Jim's own project, so finding out if his theory works as a viable fix, we can all learn something. If it was a customer, I'd go another route.
@@cliffwright9842 Hmm , yeah the reason i asked about material is i was thinking bronze would support a tapped plug that is to tight , it would split just like the block did probley even easyer. your ideas good tho, what if you just used steel instead ? ... yeah Jim's thinking outa box which is pretty cool
@luckyPiston The reason that gallery boss broke off is someone put two tapered plugs in it. One was jammed in on top of the other, and being tapered it had no where to go but out the side. Cast iron can be welded but the block needs to be heated up in a oven first, it's a specialized process not many are trained on. I only know of a guy in Pitt that does this.
@@cliffwright9842 oh i thought the 2nd plug was part of the patch job after they broke the casting...
Always enjoy your vids, have been a mechanic/machinist/car builder for more than 5 decades, currently collecting parts for a double-hump 327 with a 3X2 setup for my '32 Ford roadster. I've seen so many incredible messes made by the "last guy", I've come to believe that most people in the car biz shouldn't be.
My favorite engine ever was the 300 HP 327, I had several over the years. When they became unobtanium I built 350's to 300 HP specs. 30 yrs later there are several still running. My head says you're nuts to put all this effort into this block but my heart says GO FOR IT. Great videos.
Have you guys considered grinding out the old repair and then using a cast iron spray oxy acetylene spray torch to build it back up and re machine the gallery plug hole. We used those torches to fix allot of cast iron diesel engines it works really well.
This is what I thought too. I don’t really understand all the new drilling when this could be gouged out, built back up, ground down and tapped for a plug. Maybe one of those comments you can take with a grain of salt, but that would’ve been my first inclination.
I'd say finding someone who could do that and then what it would cost to get it done (especially in the Denver metro area) is the reason. Everything they are doing they can do themselves and like they said, in the end it just has to work.
I was just thinking maybe they didn't know about it it's not very common they just came out with the iron powder spray when I was in college I learned how to use it in about a week it's not to hard to learn
Honda crank bearings?? Time to put away the ketchup and get out the soy sauce.
I like this stuff. In a throw-away world, fix it because you can. I like stitching cracks. It's challenging, and it pays.
I've restored some old stuff and some of it made no sense money wise. Been pretty lucky that a lot of it over the years appreciated beyond what I ever thought it would. That 327 to me in my 1957 Biesemeyer drag boat would be perfect and knowing you all built it right is priceless.
I agree with your dad
Debt consolidation only works if you are absolutely committed and devoted to not incurring an additional cent of new debt. If you do not have this commitment to obtain debt freedom, then in addition to having this debt consolidation loan, you will run up all your other credit cards and other credit lines, and be deeper in debt than you ever imagined. The answer is do not ever consolidate your debt. It’s a very bad idea.
I would agree. The Dave Ramsey approach is, in my opinion, the best long term route to take. Folks, taking an unsecured debt like a credit card and refinancing it into a long term debt is not a good idea.
@@hokie9910 Most people simply do not have the discipline necessary to stay out of debt. I believe in what Dave Ramsey does 100%.
If you can take high interest debts and transfer to a lower interest rate, that’s the only reason one should consider consolidation. Pay less money to people who charge for the privilege of already having money. It’s a ridiculous business strategy that is a parasite of the working class.
That is the CRAZIEST fix! We'll see how it works when the engine is together and running. Drilling all those passages may lead to too much oiling to the lifters and top end. Since you are doing all that work, may as well put 4 bolt mains on it and stud the whole thing.
46:35. "Were gonna have to remember that" love you guys!!!!!
I would not use this block.😨
Why not?
I think ray charles could have done better redoing that block
Thanks, Jim; I thought I would drill down to the solid metal, thread a tube in, then thread the end for a plug, and re-drill the oil passage into the tube. That said, I can agree that there is a danger that oil under pressure could leak around the thread, leaving no gain on the original problem. So, you guys have done a good job. Well done, rescuing a valuable old iron. Ted from down under.
Have pretty much the same set up in my 57 Chevy. It really runs good.
Thanks for sharing. Really enjoyed it.
That looks like an ex circle track engine to me, all the clues line up; it's a 327 to start with, unacceptable hasty machine work, multiple catastrophic failures, a completely worn out crank keyway (that's a big clue), break-fix gallery plugs, hilariously worn valve guides, loose rocker studs, last but not least multiple re-bores.. Those were the bad old days of trying to stay competitive on a shoestring budget where emergency thrash jobs were often bought and paid with Busch beer 🤣😂. On another note it's nice to see y'all salvaged it, 327's are kinda like puppies, you just can't bare to throw them out no matter how beaten they were by the previous owner.
What I love just as much as your talent and skill, is your humility. Like whenever you were drilling out that braised section, saying "They did better than we could do... What if we're adding to the problem too?" You guys are just excellent.
I can smell that cutting oil way down here in Aus! Cheers guys, looking fwd to the full rebuild series.
Nice job guys! One of your best videos ever. I like the length of the video as well. ❤
Very interesting series. Can't wait for the next video. Congratulations on the new addition to the family.
Great camera work on the details!
Absolutely love your guys channel. So educational and so entertaining!!! Love it guys!!!
Fellers, there's no way I would have tried plugging a gallery like you did. It's said that you shouldn't weld on cast iron but the area that's cracked is so small and there's plenty of iron in that area that it isn't likely the block would warp or crack further. I would have ground out the booger butter or whatever that is from the crack, cleaned it really well and tig welded it with silicon bronze about 1/4" at a time, giving it time to cool between welds. Maybe you don't have a tig welding machine but I feel that would have been the most permanent fix that could have been done and in the least time.
I really like seeing your work. I enjoy seeing how you do things with a mix of old and new. I hope your rather unconventional fix in this case will hold up.
I think the big danger here is to get afraid and half finish the job. that's what happened in the past with brazing. there's no reason to think that their repair won't work. it may not be aesthetically pleasing but if it gets the job done, the engine won't complain, whatever about the owner.
I started farming with my dad in 67, I got a second hand 66 El Camino in 69 and never had enough money to do much to it. Loved the sound of those engines, good memories. The 327 emblem on the fender will always be my favorite.
The way you and your father work and talk to each other I absolutely love about you channel. Makes me miss my dad so much. Great video.
The one great thing I've picked up on about this video, is the fact that a father and son team are behaving like good friends working back after work ( dark windows leads me to think it's night time) on a project engine.
Well done to both of you.
I have loved the 327 since it came out in 62, my absolute favorite engine. Congratulations and thank you for this resurrection. Can't wait to see it to the finish.
I really enjoy watching these videos. Being that they're father and son makes it even better. Great job guys 👏🏻
Nice work guys. Thanks for taking us along. I’m curious how this will end up and if the added drill holes work as planned. Congrats on the new shop helper and will will see ya after your time with them!
I wish you were closer to me; I have a 1997 Toyota Coaster motorhome; the 4-cylinder 3B Diesel engine broke up a pre-combustion chamber and destroyed an apparently very good engine; it had only done 520,000 km with no ridge in the bore. I purchased an imported 14BT direct-injected, Turbocharged Toyota Dyna engine without knowing how many miles/ks it had done. It runs very well and is better at street speed than the old engine. We use a higher detergent oil in Queensland, Australia, than, say, South Korea or Japan, which is a problem for an old engine; it didn't take long for any carbon deposits to be washed out, and it has gotten to the point that we have lost control of blowby, I now at 79 years, face tearing it down in the chassis, need to measure it up but putting new pistons and rings in may be a headache, with 3 different sizes of 'standard' pistons and 2 different sizes of 'standard' rod bearings. Ted.
I love the fact you guys have a youtube, this information needs to be passed down for generations
I would take a nice 327 with double hump heads any day. I'm 62 years old so I remember them well. ..
They were truly an awesome engine. Even the lowly 300/327 surprised a lot of people, but taking the jump
up to the 350/327 was like night and day.
When I did the engine for my 78 GMC 1 Ton crew cab 4x4 with single rear wheels and a turbo 400, I rebuilt
the original ,and very tired 400 small block.
I used a factory 350/327 cam. Fortunately this was before people started having problems with new cams.
I picked up a set of 64cc double hump heads to put on it, and put an Edelbrock manifold and carb on it.
Even in a 7600 pound crew cab, it surprised quite a few people, and it got decent mileage.
It really is a basic, but magical combination for small block 400's, which in stock form aren't anything to get excited about.
Congrats on the new arrival!
Really looking forward to this build. Nearly opened an automotive machine shop myself 30 years ago but fell short on funding it. I've done a lot of this work but always thru somebody else's shop. Looks like you're on the right track with your creative repairs. Keep up the great videos!