For those having this problem now…It’s recommended to also change the plug (part # 24351-2GGA1) when you change the VVT solenoid on this particular model. If you don’t, you’ll have the same problem in about a year. Spend the extra money, it’ll go a long way.
Why is no one posting the torque specs? It is recommended that you use blue locktite on the bolts for the bracket that attaches on the side of the motor as well as the black top mount. The rubber mount of the fender does not need to be removed because the top and the engine side plate give you enough clearance. Post tourque specs.
I wish you had shown the face of the CVVT Assembly. It had to have been eaten up a bit to have worn down the contacts on the sensor the way it had. The half of the video that you did show was great though. Nice job.
Hey I got the code P0011 and P0010 and I bought a new sensor! Will that make your RPMs run at 1200 RPM kinda high. Replacing it will it my my RPM go back to normal? And I had someone told me that I have to replace the timing chain also
I'm having the same issue with my 2016 hyundai sonata limited. If you don't mind me asking @Adam, what's the mileage on your vehicle? Mine is getting to 60k, do you think that it is still under warranty?
@@Kenny-bp8ux I was at 51,529. I think it should be covered if you’re the original owner. You should call a dealer to be sure. I have a 2015 Sonata Sport.
Great video. My check engine light came on my 2015 Sonata the other day. High RPM idling, shifting bad, loss of power (especially uphill). Same P0010 code. I think Hyundai began using these plates on model year 2015. I wish it was a simple solenoid plug you could take out, clean and pop right back in. I think they switched to this system bc it has cleaner emissions and fuel economy. Appears I don't have to lift the engine, I was worried about taking the bracket off.
I have the same exact problem on my 2015 Sonata Limited. I'm just now getting to work on it. I purchased the acuator cover from dealer. But yeah same problems you had. High idle, rough shifting, and loss of power when accelerating. Hope this works and fixes this 🤞
@@erwinbegay3729 Was yours filled with oil from a bad seal or was the brush contact disintegrated like the one shown in this video? Mine was filled with oil.
@@erwinbegay3729 I purchased and replaced myself as well. It's not the easiest but anyone can do it with enough video research. About a month ago the same code and engine problems began again. I removed the black plug and noticed the inner plug became loose. Which made me wonder if that was the problem I had the first time instead of an actual bad cover. When that plug becomes loose it allows oil into the cover and the two little prong sensors become dirty and causes this whole issue. I'm curious if my particular plug had a recall. I remember reading about the old brown plugs are bad and Hyundai came out with a black one. I didn't want to remove the cover again to compromise the gasket seal so with both plugs removed and I towel below it I started the engine to flush out the oil. Then I unscrewed the part with the two prong sensors and cleaned those off. Probably not what a mechanic would recommend but it got the job done. I'm now back to synthetic blend and always warm my car here in winter.
@@Kevin-yr6sq i started my car in almost zero degree weather, then this check engine light came on shortly, obd scan came back with p0010. i think i may have try this before actually removing everything and replacing the cover.
Hello..i just changed mine today..i have a constant high idle.. what did you spray on the ermine side to get that black carbon/dust off?...i just wiped with a dry rage. Would that be enough.. I'm asking because it didn't change my issue.. I've replaced cam sensor and all kinds of things..0011 code is still on there im at a loss.. I'm hoping maybe there is a clog on the engine side of this cap.. caused by this black dust stuff
Also do I have to always take everything apart it looks like the sensor could come out easy if it had clearances! Is all after market sensor to short for clearance
Not an easy repair on the 2.4L engine. Even with an engine lift , the motor shifts rearward when you take off the black top bracket and it is heavy and difficult to pull back into position to reinstall the bracket. You need to use a ratchet strap and a solid anchor (like another vehicle) to pull the engine lift and the engine forward so the bracket can be reinstalled and tightened down.
The guy just pulled it with his left hand into place. I've watched several videos and the rearward shift wasn't as pronounced as yours. Maybe you didn't lift the engine properly or you are not the strongest person. I'm doing mine tomorrow on the side of the street and I hope I don't experience any pronounced rearward shift because I'd be Fawked. I don't have much tools behind a jack to support the engine
Could it also be that one your mount is failing, hence the aggressive rearward shift? I feel like the remaining 2 mounts should be able to hold the engine in place
So I just did mine. Yeah, I'd inspect your right or bottom engine mount. There was no rearward shift whatsoever ever, as was the case for everyone else on RUclips. Yours is the 1st account I've heard of an aggressive rearward shift. Mine barely moved at all. I wonder if you used a lift, whereas everyone else is using a floor jack. Maybe floor jack offers a better support.
I retract that comment. When I did mine, it only had one plug (the outside one). The part number I mentioned had a much smaller diameter. Mine was filled with oil, so seal on the cap must of have died. Also note that this happened after starting the car in extreme cold temps.
I have 2017 and have the P0010 code. I replaced the sensor and have reset the code only to have it keep coming back on. Any suggestions on what to test?
Hi, you didn't have to remove the oil pan? I see you took the bolts out. I assume you have to remove the oil pan for the timing cover to be able to come off. Am i correct?
Yeah my bad. My comment was meant for a different channel. I have to remove the main timing cover on mine, as my issue is beyond the sensor. The cam phaser is siezeing
Hi what are the symptoms when you need to change that part ,my car the rpm goes up from 1200 to 1400 but when it's cold it's fine 10 minutes later it starts doing
My car heard like the muffler is if it were covered and the rpm stays between 1200 to 1400 and is heard as a acceleration ,maybe need a change this part?
I have already changed that part and it served me for a week later the same thing came back high rpm and now I don't now what else need to fixed, still appear P0010 code...
@@juanrodriguez-xy5dy Did you replace the cover and both plugs? 24360-2GGD0 COVER ASSY, 24351-2GGA1 PLUG, Plug 24352-2GGB0 I've heard some folks put a thin film of RTV around the surface of the plugs to hold them in place and seal better. Were the copper commutator rings on your 24350-2GGB0 CVVT ASSY-INTAKE smooth and free of chips. It could have worn out your new cover's brushes if not. When you took your assembly apart were the brushes disintegrated or was the assembly filled with oil?
I was just about to get this repaired and somehow the light went away and the car was running fine and not sluggish anymore, should I still be concerned? Why would the light go away? Today the car felt smooth. When the light was on, the car felt sluggish, hard to accelerate but then all of a sudden a month later the light goes away? Doesn't make sense, it's like the car was running smooth again. What could cause this?
Doesn’t anyone know about Hyundai sonata 2016 ? My car is going but it’s not going as fast when I accelerate it’s actually going at a certain speed it doesn’t go faster I already replaced the cover in this video and it was good for a few days then the light came back on and it started going slow again like it’s forcing itself? Doesn’t anyone have any idea ?? I need help no one knows what it is ??
@MyThumbsHurt Did you figure out the problem? My son said his car is doing this too now and I'm ordering a new cover and plugs and will head over to help him out once the parts are in.
Hello, I have a issue with my 2016 Hyundai sonata. The check engine light began flashing and then it shut down. It has been sitting since August and no help from anyone. The dealership here aren't taking cars in until Next year but don't know when. Do anyone know want the people could be
@@hoodstarperformance4758 The Ford dealership where I got it said they didn't have the equipment to check it out and they had me tow it to a quick lane here because the had the equipment there. It sat two weeks before I was told the only thing was a code for coolant pump control so they said take it to the Hyundai dealership so I had it towed home because Hyundai aren't taking cars and I been on the waiting list for a while.
@@pamelagreen1372 wow that sucks. If it wasn’t a 10hr drive to you I would love to help. It shouldn’t be that hard for any dealership. That must be really busy.
@@hoodstarperformance4758 it didn’t even fix it. Repaired everything and now my new brakes are not working all the way. It’s like their failing. You have any ideas what i should do?
These cars are a POS. I only have 57k mikes with the same issue. I would never buy another Kia again in my life. Changed the cover assembly for the E-CVVT with sensor has the same issue? P00100. The car drives fine for 10 miles and idles at 1350 rpm and sluggish going up hills.
What if I just did the exact samething u did in the video but oil seems to still leak inside of the new cover would you say the new one has a bad seal on it?
For those having this problem now…It’s recommended to also change the plug (part # 24351-2GGA1) when you change the VVT solenoid on this particular model. If you don’t, you’ll have the same problem in about a year. Spend the extra money, it’ll go a long way.
What are all the part numbers to do this repair
@@garrettnilan5609 the one listed above and 24360-2GGD0 which is the vvt sensor and metal cap together.
@@jessedominguez8952 thanks I just picked it up last weekend actually haven’t even open the box up yet will open it up this weekend and try to install
I just change the sensor and it’s still idling high! Code P0010 n P0011! Do I need to change the solenoid also?
What if this doesn’t fix it
You should also change the seal inside the camshaft, the cover only wont help to fix the problem for the long run.
Why is no one posting the torque specs? It is recommended that you use blue locktite on the bolts for the bracket that attaches on the side of the motor as well as the black top mount. The rubber mount of the fender does not need to be removed because the top and the engine side plate give you enough clearance. Post tourque specs.
Buddy no one uses torque specs, its either loose or tight, get a grip man 🤦🏻♂️
I wish you had shown the face of the CVVT Assembly. It had to have been eaten up a bit to have worn down the contacts on the sensor the way it had. The half of the video that you did show was great though. Nice job.
I remember it just needed to be wiped down
Hey I got the code P0011 and P0010 and I bought a new sensor! Will that make your RPMs run at 1200 RPM kinda high. Replacing it will it my my RPM go back to normal? And I had someone told me that I have to replace the timing chain also
I would check the sensor first
Did you ever replace your sensor? I have same issues (high 1200-1500 rpm idle, weak power) and was wondering before buying part to replace. Thanks.
@@envaziongamingWere you ever able to resolve your issue of the high RPMs? I'm having the same issue, unfortunately.
How can the engine bay be so clean? Amazing!
BRO WHAT IF MY ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON AFTER I REPLACE THE PART
I replaced this on my 2016 and cleared the codes but still the same problem. What did I do wrong or miss?
Lmk when u find out
Same
Thanks for uploading
You’re welcome don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t
I had this problem fixed under warranty last week. They replaced the round part on the end of the cam shaft too.
It’s becoming very common
I'm having the same issue with my 2016 hyundai sonata limited. If you don't mind me asking @Adam, what's the mileage on your vehicle? Mine is getting to 60k, do you think that it is still under warranty?
@@Kenny-bp8ux I was at 51,529. I think it should be covered if you’re the original owner. You should call a dealer to be sure. I have a 2015 Sonata Sport.
@@adam92682 thanks
@@adam92682 did yo udo your own oil changes? i do my own and hope they dont give me a hassle if i try to get them to repair mine under warranty
Does anyone know the position of the internal rubber plug ? Should be the concave side out or the flat side out when installed ?
They ought to Recall The whole Hyundai Company!
Lol I agree
I agree shoot .....
Shitty company that cares too much about exterior aesthetics than internal functionality. Aka polishing a turd
Very informative video❤
Great video. My check engine light came on my 2015 Sonata the other day. High RPM idling, shifting bad, loss of power (especially uphill). Same P0010 code. I think Hyundai began using these plates on model year 2015. I wish it was a simple solenoid plug you could take out, clean and pop right back in. I think they switched to this system bc it has cleaner emissions and fuel economy. Appears I don't have to lift the engine, I was worried about taking the bracket off.
I have the same exact problem on my 2015 Sonata Limited. I'm just now getting to work on it. I purchased the acuator cover from dealer. But yeah same problems you had. High idle, rough shifting, and loss of power when accelerating.
Hope this works and fixes this 🤞
@@erwinbegay3729 Was yours filled with oil from a bad seal or was the brush contact disintegrated like the one shown in this video? Mine was filled with oil.
@@erwinbegay3729 I purchased and replaced myself as well. It's not the easiest but anyone can do it with enough video research. About a month ago the same code and engine problems began again. I removed the black plug and noticed the inner plug became loose. Which made me wonder if that was the problem I had the first time instead of an actual bad cover. When that plug becomes loose it allows oil into the cover and the two little prong sensors become dirty and causes this whole issue. I'm curious if my particular plug had a recall. I remember reading about the old brown plugs are bad and Hyundai came out with a black one. I didn't want to remove the cover again to compromise the gasket seal so with both plugs removed and I towel below it I started the engine to flush out the oil. Then I unscrewed the part with the two prong sensors and cleaned those off. Probably not what a mechanic would recommend but it got the job done. I'm now back to synthetic blend and always warm my car here in winter.
surprised you dont have to support the engine with a jack? the other youtube vids show you have to do that
@@Kevin-yr6sq i started my car in almost zero degree weather, then this check engine light came on shortly, obd scan came back with p0010. i think i may have try this before actually removing everything and replacing the cover.
Hello..i just changed mine today..i have a constant high idle.. what did you spray on the ermine side to get that black carbon/dust off?...i just wiped with a dry rage. Would that be enough.. I'm asking because it didn't change my issue.. I've replaced cam sensor and all kinds of things..0011 code is still on there im at a loss.. I'm hoping maybe there is a clog on the engine side of this cap.. caused by this black dust stuff
Also do I have to always take everything apart it looks like the sensor could come out easy if it had clearances! Is all after market sensor to short for clearance
Perfect
Nice job
I saw that you put the cover on, but what about the plug that you have to tap in?
I don’t remember a plug in the way if so it goes into play easy
@@hoodstarperformance4758 Agree? There should be a plug and then a breather plug. 24351-2GGA1 PLUG and 24352-2GGB0.
Nice and beautiful ❤️
Hola...que pasa si tengo partículas de metal color cobre y plata en el aceite HYUNDAI SONATA 2016
What if this doesn’t fix it? Mine has been replaced twice. Same code
My experience was pretty straightforward. If you’re having on going problems, you have to diagnose deeper.
رائع عزيزي. ولكن ما اسم جهاز التشخيص
Can this be done without jacking up the motor? The oil pan has a cover.
I think it needs to be jacked up
How is it that the engine bay is that clean? Where is the dust?
My guy sell cars. He always details them before he brings them to be fixed
@@hoodstarperformance4758 Thank you for the explanation
Not an easy repair on the 2.4L engine. Even with an engine lift , the motor shifts rearward when you take off the black top bracket and it is heavy and difficult to pull back into position to reinstall the bracket. You need to use a ratchet strap and a solid anchor (like another vehicle) to pull the engine lift and the engine forward so the bracket can be reinstalled and tightened down.
@ 12:15 on this video I use 1 arm.
The guy just pulled it with his left hand into place. I've watched several videos and the rearward shift wasn't as pronounced as yours. Maybe you didn't lift the engine properly or you are not the strongest person. I'm doing mine tomorrow on the side of the street and I hope I don't experience any pronounced rearward shift because I'd be Fawked. I don't have much tools behind a jack to support the engine
Could it also be that one your mount is failing, hence the aggressive rearward shift? I feel like the remaining 2 mounts should be able to hold the engine in place
So I just did mine. Yeah, I'd inspect your right or bottom engine mount. There was no rearward shift whatsoever ever, as was the case for everyone else on RUclips. Yours is the 1st account I've heard of an aggressive rearward shift. Mine barely moved at all. I wonder if you used a lift, whereas everyone else is using a floor jack. Maybe floor jack offers a better support.
Can you clean out the old one? Was it stuck? Need to get me by for a few days if possible before I do the whole thing
If it’s your car sure
Does this cause your car to not drive
Hi, whats the name of that piece?thanks
Camshaft sensor. Dealer part
Is it one or two plugs? I’ve seen some people. I’m curios cause I’m having the same problem and going to do the job myself
2 pins 1 plug I believe
There should be a plug and then a breather plug. 24351-2GGA1 PLUG and 24352-2GGB0. How'd it go for you?
I retract that comment. When I did mine, it only had one plug (the outside one). The part number I mentioned had a much smaller diameter. Mine was filled with oil, so seal on the cap must of have died. Also note that this happened after starting the car in extreme cold temps.
Is this the intake vvt?
Does that sensor cause your car to act like a dead battery ? I need help please
I don’t think so but anything is possible. It may hesitate to start and give drivability issues
Great info
Thanks for watching
I have 2017 and have the P0010 code. I replaced the sensor and have reset the code only to have it keep coming back on. Any suggestions on what to test?
Reply when your find out thank you
I got a sonata with the same issue, I changed the sensor but couple of days code cames back
You should of seen if the sensor was physically damaged. If it looks normal than the problem probably somewhere else
Did you seat the rubber seal properly?
Did it spill any oil when you removed it?
Nope
Will this cause the vehicle not to start? Have the code car cut of mid driving and hasn’t started since.
Possibly. If you have that code man I would check that sensor though
Did you ever figure it out
I currently got code p0010 and p0011 will what you should in the video fixe both those issues?
It takes about 30 minutes to look behind that cover I would check it out
Link to the part please
I did all that,20 mins later it started again.
Do you have the part number for this?
It’s similar to this part but go to the local dealership to confirm it
OEM 243602GGD0 Camshaft cover For Hyundai Sonata
Is this is the same as Variable Camshaft Timing Solenoid?
I just need the sensor that is connected to the plate cover. Where can I get one from ?
Roc Auto
Dealer
Hi, you didn't have to remove the oil pan? I see you took the bolts out. I assume you have to remove the oil pan for the timing cover to be able to come off. Am i correct?
It’s not the main timing cover it’s a cover on the timing cover
Yeah my bad. My comment was meant for a different channel. I have to remove the main timing cover on mine, as my issue is beyond the sensor. The cam phaser is siezeing
I have the same problem is there anyway I can get the part number or part name
243602GGD0 Camshaft cover. I copied this from an earlier comment
I have the same code p0010 but my car not started just crashing please can you tell me how to fix
You have to check one part at a time. I would start with look at this sensor on the video
Hi what are the symptoms when you need to change that part ,my car the rpm goes up from 1200 to 1400 but when it's cold it's fine 10 minutes later it starts doing
High rpm’s while idling
My car heard like the muffler is if it were covered and the rpm stays between 1200 to 1400 and is heard as a acceleration ,maybe need a change this part?
@@juanrodriguez-xy5dy it won’t hurt
The engine if you inspect it before you replace it
I have already changed that part and it served me for a week later the same thing came back high rpm and now I don't now what else need to fixed, still appear P0010 code...
@@juanrodriguez-xy5dy Did you replace the cover and both plugs? 24360-2GGD0 COVER ASSY, 24351-2GGA1 PLUG, Plug 24352-2GGB0
I've heard some folks put a thin film of RTV around the surface of the plugs to hold them in place and seal better. Were the copper commutator rings on your 24350-2GGB0 CVVT ASSY-INTAKE smooth and free of chips. It could have worn out your new cover's brushes if not.
When you took your assembly apart were the brushes disintegrated or was the assembly filled with oil?
Hey I got a Hyundai Elantra with a p011 code can you fix it
Thanks for watching unfortunately I work on cars that we sell
Does this cause rough engine idle
Yes
I was just about to get this repaired and somehow the light went away and the car was running fine and not sluggish anymore, should I still be concerned? Why would the light go away? Today the car felt smooth.
When the light was on, the car felt sluggish, hard to accelerate but then all of a sudden a month later the light goes away? Doesn't make sense, it's like the car was running smooth again. What could cause this?
That’s sign something is going out
I need help with my car how can I talk to u one on one
Instagram or messenger
Doesn’t anyone know about Hyundai sonata 2016 ? My car is going but it’s not going as fast when I accelerate it’s actually going at a certain speed it doesn’t go faster I already replaced the cover in this video and it was good for a few days then the light came back on and it started going slow again like it’s forcing itself? Doesn’t anyone have any idea ?? I need help no one knows what it is ??
You have to diagnose it. If not we all are just guessing
@MyThumbsHurt Did you figure out the problem? My son said his car is doing this too now and I'm ordering a new cover and plugs and will head over to help him out once the parts are in.
@@joemyers yes it was the reason the p0010 code was on for that car
Replacing the cover fixed my son's car and its been several weeks and still starting the car in cold temperatures and driving mostly daily.
Hello, I have a issue with my 2016 Hyundai sonata. The check engine light began flashing and then it shut down. It has been sitting since August and no help from anyone. The dealership here aren't taking cars in until Next year but don't know when. Do anyone know want the people could be
Heavy misfire.
The next step would be to scan the engine computer with a scanner where are you located?
@@hoodstarperformance4758 Thanks for responding I put the wrong year it's a 2018 limited edition and I live in Montgomery Alabama
@@hoodstarperformance4758 The Ford dealership where I got it said they didn't have the equipment to check it out and they had me tow it to a quick lane here because the had the equipment there. It sat two weeks before I was told the only thing was a code for coolant pump control so they said take it to the Hyundai dealership so I had it towed home because Hyundai aren't taking cars and I been on the waiting list for a while.
@@pamelagreen1372 wow that sucks. If it wasn’t a 10hr drive to you I would love to help. It shouldn’t be that hard for any dealership. That must be really busy.
When it comes to jacking the car up underneath on the oil pan, what if i don’t have wood
I have done jobs before without wood, but use wood to be on the safe side
@@hoodstarperformance4758 i have some wood now. Am i placing the wood on the top of the jack and rolling into under that material from the oil pan?
@@hoodstarperformance4758 the only thing I’m seeing is the cover that’s very loose and then the pan that’s not metal.
@@W_A_A_N1 sounds like you got it
@@hoodstarperformance4758 it didn’t even fix it. Repaired everything and now my new brakes are not working all the way. It’s like their failing. You have any ideas what i should do?
Brush sensor causing havoc😂
I'm having the same issue with my 2.0T Kia Sportage SX Turbo
I would check it out
@@hoodstarperformance4758 i replaced the cover but same code, do you know what it could be?
Did you ever find out what it was. I have same code in 2018 Sportage
dealer near me wanted $250
You may need an account if you do repairs and buy parts often. I know I got it under $150 from the dealership
These cars are a POS. I only have 57k mikes with the same issue. I would never buy another Kia again in my life. Changed the cover assembly for the E-CVVT with sensor has the same issue? P00100. The car drives fine for 10 miles and idles at 1350 rpm and sluggish going up hills.
What if I just did the exact samething u did in the video but oil seems to still leak inside of the new cover would you say the new one has a bad seal on it?
Or the surface area is clean enough
What you mean and did you have to put this plug inside of that hole 24351-2GGA1
That’s the part number
@@tabiasjones9589 I’m not sure it in the comments. You can also message me direct on ig @hoodstarperformance
@@tabiasjones9589 here should be a plug and then a breather plug. 24351-2GGA1 PLUG and 24352-2GGB0. Did you get it working again without any leaks?