Adjust/Center Side Pull Caliper Brakes That Are Hitting Rim Uneven
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- Опубликовано: 14 фев 2016
- I show how to center side-pull caliper brakes on a road bike where one pad hits the rim before the other.
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Was looking for hints and tips on side pull brakes and you are one of the very few RUclipsrs who get straight to the point and explain it simply.
Man! I've been hanging my head against every wall trying to adjust other parts, but this makes total sense, that the main bolt will tilt the whole thing then you just tighten it back up. Thanks guy!
Thanks for this, very helpful. I vaguely remembered this from my late father showing me years ago, but he's not around anymore and it's good to have a video to remind me how to do it! Thanks for the reminder about checking wheel alignment first - my problem was not just the brakes out of balance but the wheel also.
This is exactly what I've been searching for for at least a week. THANK YOU.
Very helpful and right to the point -- well done!!
Thank you for finally solving my bike problem and saving Christmas!
RJ, I want to thank you for these videos. I'm building a repair shop and you are a wealth of inspiration and knowledge. Thank you, Chris
as always, thanks RJ!
Thank you for this video and others you have done. I have some repair manuals and often they are not clear but your teaching is.
Nice job RJ. appreciate that.
Worked a treat, brakes centred in less than a minute, thanks!
I'm resurrecting a Schwinn World Sport bike for the 1980s. Your video was very helpful. Thank you so much!
So quick and simple. Well done! Thanks
Your video saved me SO much time. Thank you
Worked! Thanks!
Thank you very much for keeping it easy!
This system is a night mare. Thank you for the video
Very helpful and grateful. Rima were rubbing in my colnago and i have limited knowledge on bikes. You saved me money and made me feel like a certified mechanic XD
Exactly what I needed; especially since it turned out that the wheel was slightly off, not the brake clamp - so glad you threw that tip in there. Thanks so much!
thanks RJ, I was wondering if it were that simple or if I was missing something.
Thanks! A simple solution and it worked.
Thanks so much! So helpful!
Thank you so much! My daughter and I are so happy!
Thanks, perfect video!
Thanks! Super helpful!
Good work
Are you a wizard RJ? How did you know I was looking for that specific video? hehehe
+Im MIRADOR Same. Just bought a bike two weeks ago and was wondering if I'm supposed to just wrestle the brake to adjust it. It did move, but now I'm thinking the bolt is just loose.
Yee-hah! Fantastic stuff - many thanks!!
Been causing me uneven brake pad wear and even uneven bearing wear in my front wheel, such that I had to replace the wheel. Thank you for sharing!
Very helpful thanks!
Nice simple short video, thank you.
Glad you liked it
Thanks, I never thought that kind of adjustment would fix that kind of problem.
Ty for this sir
ur vids are simple and easy to follow and well explained, how do you not have millions of subscribers??
Hey, thanks man!
My wheel was slightly off-center! Great videos and thanks!!
Thanks dude.
Super easy to understand, and fixed my bike problem where brakes are not engaged!
My problem is I have some old calipers that are tightened as you tighten them onto the frame. So while tightening the screw secures the caliper from rotating, it also makes braking very difficult (or prevents it completely).
Same thing 😁😁😁
@@techreview5732 I never updated this, but I think I solved the issue. First, my nut and the retaining bracket for the spring were worn away (the bracket was completely broken), so I bought a new set. From there, you have to treat the brake calipers as the center of the assembly:
On one side from the center, you will hold the brake caliper (ideally you would hold it by the spring or the spring retaining bracket) and tighten the nut that fixes the caliper onto the frame.
On the other side from the center, you should find another nut. Again, hold the brake caliper and tighten or loosen the nut to adjust the friction with which the calipers move open or closed.
I do not remember if the original nut + bolt assembly on the calipers had this two-side arrangement. If it didn't, then buying a new set was an even better investment. They should be cheap, but they are pretty rare.
It is slightly difficult to describe without pictures, but I hope you understand. If you believe I can make myself clearer, you are welcome to respond :)
thank you sir!!
Good vid
This video got me home after a bike fall the other day. God bless.
Amazing intro
Thanks!
I installed new wheels and braking pads yesterday, all was good when leaving the shop but for some reason after taking off the front wheel I got this problem. Followed the instructions and managed to fix it (although not at the first time, since the caliper kept moving when I was screwing).
thank you soooo much
thank you soooo much!
Thanks needed it
This trick worked great for my front brake and i also used a trick where you turn the front and back nut at the same time with 2 wrenches.
I cant say the same for the back brake. No matter what one pad would always be touching but motionless while the other pad has space and its arm is the only one that moves. Very frustrating!!!!!
I put the bike up on a table and studied it closely. The physics of it can be very perplexing. I noticed that the cable itself can have an influence on it and zip tieing it in place helped but it was still acting up.
I concluded that the horseshoe shaped spring was exerting too much force. I took the pads off and i wouldve taken the wheel off but thats too much hassle, i grabbed the arms and gave them a good muscle in the manner i wanted them to improve. This tweaked the spring enough to where it now sits on there fair enough.
Both pads now have space and both arms move when the lever is squeezed.
SIGH! 😬🙀🙏
OH MY GOSH!
Hey, with these things it takes a bit of pain to get the pleasure.
Between getting these brakes dialed in and getting the wheels all trued up i got many hours into that aspect of the bike.
It all adds up. Today was just a few hours. ❤
Damn, I just bought a old bike and I have same problem. Thank you! You save my ass
thanks!!!
Thanks for this helpful video! I can ride to work now and not have to work up a hill with a seized brake :-)
Thanks for the video! I fixed the same issue on my bike yesterday. Holding brake lever while tightening a fixing bolt helped a lot to center my front caliper brake.
Thanks!!! :)
Is it same for brakes where the wire runs on top of the callipers ?
Hello R.J. could you do a video on adjusting vintage raleigh side pull brakes? They have a screw slot on the front and a bolt on the rear so centering them so that the brake pads hit evenly seems to be a little different than typical side pull brakes.
Same thing.
I can't believe this never occurred to me... thanks
RJ have you changed brakes from center pull to side pull before ? I just bought a sweet set of Suntour Cyclone NOS side pull brakes and want to change out the crappy Weinmann center pull brakes. I dont think its going to be too tough but have you ever done it? Thanks
I can't recall, but maybe. Shouldn't be too hard. You might need longer reach caliper brakes though.
Keep up the great work covering vintage bikes! I am still riding my 1979 road bike with Shimano 600 side pull rim brakes and Shimano 600 levers (I upgraded to the 600s from center pull calipers in the early 1980s) on a randonneur handlebar with bar end shifters. I would like to improve the braking power. I did install new pads, but the improvement was not very great. Could I install Shimano Dual-Pivot Calipers with my existing levers? Would they stop better? Which caliper model should I use? I understand there is a issue with pull ratios having to match, but I am having trouble finding that information. There are no mounting points for linear pull or cantilevered brakes on my bike. My mountain bike has linear pull brakes and my wife's bikes have cantilever or disk brakes. They all have far more stopping power than my 600 side pulls. Sometimes I feel like I would stop faster if I dragged my feet, well almost.
For your older bike, be sure to replace all the cables. Over time, the silver cable will be gin to corrode and become very stuff, adding more friction in the cable housing. Adding white lithium grease to the cable before installing into housing helps a ton. If you replaced the calipers, and need more braking power, go with alloy brake calipers. Stamped steel will flex and you lose leverage. - Tim, the originator if the video.
Is it normal for single pivot brakes to be spongy? I feel like the calipers are flexing under heavy braking and it wont lock up the wheels. Pads are brand new aswell.
My bike pads are even, but too close to the rim. How can I adjust the pads to be slightly further away? Thanks!
Hi RJ! Can you make a video about how take a vintage brake apart, clean it and make it work like new again? Try to fix some Modolo brakes on an old ALAN but can't make them work like they should...
They generally don't need to be taken apart. Clean them, lube them, adjust them.
csn you tell me how to fix a side pull brakes just like in this video. the issue is the center nut is fully tight but it keeps wobling left and right
Holy nut kicker that’s high pitch!
Pena q esse freio não se encontra aqui no Brasil
Also adjusting single pivot, side-pull brakes with unevenly worn pads is a mind bending exercise, save yourselves the headache if you notice uneven wearing by either filing down the pads equally even if enough is safely left, or change the pads before trouble shooting centering issuses, play in the calipers, or unequal bite to the rim.
A little off-topic, but I want to convert my old Schwinn from having center-pull brakes to side-pull. I'm pretty certain that the front brake hanger is easy enough to rotate and shouldn't have any clearance issues with the top tube (though I won't know until I get fully into it, I guess), but the rear hanger is a little trickier. It uses the seat post clamp bolt (as do most, I think), and as such it won't rotate at all. As it is, the cable runs a (roughly) center line down the seat tube/splitting the seat stays to the top of the brake caliper's center-pull cable (sic?). My question is, will it be OK to slap on some side-pull calipers with it like that, or should I try to find a side-hanging hanger?
Thanks for all you do! Your videos and knowledge have helped me take this bike from a POS craigslist mistake to something I love to ride every day!
+Matt Novak-Zarate I am not quite sure what you are referring to by hangers. If you mean the hangers for center pull brakes, side pull brakes don't use them. With side pull brakes you will have a couple cable stops mounted on the top tube. They can be clamped on.
Could you do a rebuild video
Hey RJ - what are the steps for adjusting the cable to proper length for proper tightness or response of the brake? I changed rims recently and now my brakes are way too loose and am struggling with setting this up. Seems like it should be easy but, argh, I just can't get it right. And can't seem to find a video addressing this, but maybe I missed it. Thanks!
+Joe Murphy One method I used is about 8 1/2 minutes into this video: ruclips.net/video/L5pl0zrlHbg/видео.html
Good Sir can you help me? I adjusted the front nuts and one of them in the middle (guiding the spring) because I didn't know what I was doing... Now I'm not too sure about the spring tensions and the whole thing just feels unstable even after tightening the back nut.
Sorry, but without working on the bike directly, I can't be sure of what the issue is. I suggest taking it to a shop and have a mechanic look at it, if you can't figure it out on your own.
i just unscrew bolt,push breaking lever,and breaks stand in nornal position (they push the rimm at hte same time) and tighten up the bolt.
Same, more precise than visually guess and check.
I was wondering if you could it that way too. Thanks buddy.
*braking *brakes
The last word of the title should be unevenLY. Good video!
My rear Shimano Exage Motion brake from 1991 doesn't want to return all of the way back into position after braking. Could it be a worn out return spring and do they still sell them? I've taken everything apart and cleaned and adjusted it.
Could be cable. Could be lever. Could be spring. Could be sticky pivot. Could be multiple things.
My vintage brakes don't have power when I pull the lever and it's not the cable tension because the barell adjusters is unthreaded and the pads are very close to the rim. Any suggestions?
I can't really tell you without working on the bike. Maybe using brake levers not compatible with the brakes? Short pull vs long pull. Maybe the brake pads suck! Maybe they are low quality brakes.
Hey R.J. Could you make a suggestion on brake pads for this style of brake. The rims are alloy. I need pads for the shortest stopping distance. Longevity does not matter. Please.
You need to do your own research and shopping.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Will take note of that. Thank You
So what do you do if the brakes don't move at all after you tighten the back bolt. Working on shimano 600 vintage brakes
I can't tell you the issue without working on it.
My brake calipers is slow when going back to normal form do you have a video about that and i feel there is slack when i press the brake lever even when i tighten the cables
Replace the cables/housings.
Can you do this without the use of helium ?
I'm not sure this method works for me. I can adjust the brake without loosening the nut - does this mean that the nut isn't tight enough? I find that the brake just goes back to rubbing on the rim. There's an adjustment grub screw which I played with when I fitted the brakes but they have since gone out of adjustment. Also, the right Allen key is a pain to find. I have checked that the wheels are centered. I'm pretty new to caliper brakes (on single speed bikes) so hopefully I'll be able to sort it soon.
Try it.
I have a question, when I tighten the mounting bolts all the way, the caliper won't spring back after depressing the brake lever. I have to loosen it a bit and it will work. Is this normal? The back caliper mounting bolt is fully tightened with no issue.
I can't tell you what the issue is without working on the bike.
With these kind of bike breaks
Can you use a slightly wider rim
Say 1/8 in wider then adjust the brakes out?
Yes.
Just a comment, maybe add "center" or "centering" to the title. I know if i were googling or searching on RUclips, I'd probably type something along the lines of "centering side pull caliper"
Agreed
RJ- I've followed the directions however I have an interesting issue, the rear fork on my caliper does not return to an open position once the brakes are applied. I replaced the tension spring (twice to be sure), that does not seem to be the issue. It's as if one side of the caliper is "too tight" which doesn't seem logical. Any thoughts on that
Make sure the pivot is well lubed and it's not sticking. You might need to rotate the brake farther before tightening it, so that it comes back to a neutral position after actually using the brakes.
That worked for the most part. Seems like occasionally it does still stick after several compressions, requiring a manual push out. I might have to over-correct.
If it is sticking, then you probably need to cleaning and lubricate the pivot points.
unequal spring tension - - what i did was to stretch out the spring (on the side that sits closer to the rim) - this imparts greater tension to that spring - try that [worked for me]
My rim brakes doesnt spring back when i press the lever do you have a video about that? Btw the rim brakes are new
You need to isolate the problem. It's the brakes and/or the cable and/or the lever.
What if your rear brakes are connected by 2 bolts
My rear caliper is pivoting on the mounting bolt even when tight, causing one pad to move and rub on wheel after a few uses of the brake. Anyone got any suggestions?
They nut on the front of the brake might be to tight, slacken it a bit and a few drops of oil between the joints,after that adjust which back nut like on vid
hi rj I have a peugeot uo 8 with friction shifting, I'd like to change it so the back derailleur using index shifting, what do I need to get?
+chr0m389 That is currently a 10 speed? This video might be what you want: ruclips.net/video/DO5V3qkW05g/видео.html
But I have other videos that go farther like this one: ruclips.net/video/QwxEPRk3LFg/видео.html
yeah, it did have ten speeds. I changed the wheels to alloy and in that process I ended up putting a 7 speed cassette on it.
Then basically you need to install a Shimano SIS rear derailleur and Shimano 7 speed indexed shifters.
Lol, exactly what was on my bike that got stolen last week.
+chr0m389 You need a hammer... For the guy who stole your bike.
solution if bolt adjustment doesn't help: take the spring out, heat it on the stove and reduce tension of the more extending arm's side~
ramen - what u did is the best way. its tough to do , but the way to go
In a new bike I just got, with same mechanism, only one side moves, the other side- once it squeezes it does not rest back away from wheel.. any suggestions how to fix that?
TIA
Go through the video. Lube the pivot points. If the bike is brand new, take it back to the shop and have them fix it.
@@RJTheBikeGuy the shop is walmart! Daughter loves the bike so either I need to fix or return!!
Thanks for tip will try it.
what if one pad is waaaay too far away compared to the other....should you adjust the actually spring on the calliper?
Not usually on these kind of brakes.
This guy sounds a lot like Michael's son Jimmy in GTA V
DAAAAD, stop being such an asshole!
Hi RJ, I have Tektro cantilever brakes and the right-hand pad sticks to the rim after the lever is pulled. I shall check the wheel has been fitted correctly; if that doesn't solve the problem, what's the likely remedy? Best wishes from the UK.
What's the size of the tool that you used?
Which tool? Probably the size that fit my brakes. No guarantee your brakes will take the same size tool. I just used the size tool that fit. Odds are it will be metric.
@@RJTheBikeGuy ok thanks for the quick reply. I will check the metric sizes.
What do I do if the two brake pads are not returning back to their position? there's always one pad which is moving and the other one is almost static... after doing the alignment you showed us on the video both sides will move towards the rim for a couple of braking tries but after that it's just one side as I said earlier...
If I loosen the nut which holds the two brake arms together the whole braking system will be wobbling while braking... and eventually the nut will loosen itself too (even the nut on top of it doesn't help with that)... I am usually very with tools and understanding stuff but I cannot understand what is the problem here... The rim itself is straight and spokes are not lose.
+Woody Hawk Lube the pivot points on the brakes to make sure they are moving smoothly. Replace the cable/housing to make sure it is moving smoothly. Lube the brake lever pivot points. Then adjust the brake as in this video.
+RJ The Bike Guy thanks, will do!
Can you please help me. I'm having about the same problem but I've tried adjusting the pivot part several times and adjusting the brake pads and they still aren't hitting right. One side is lower than the other side and I can't get the one side down enough to where the brake pad hits right, its hitting on the tire. And I can't get it down by adjusting the pivot part enough to bring the break pad down. If you have an email I can email you a picture if you think you can help.
Then you need to adjust the pads. Not the pivot part.
RJ The Bike Guy I adjusted those as well I moved everything possible also when I squeeze on the brakes I can't hardly get it to move at all. It's like it's stuck.
Then I can't tell you without working on it. Take it to a shop.
bike guy, my name is tye, I've done all I can do to true out my front wheel on my mountain bike. I noticed while trying to repair that my vbrake "" front""... started to come out of line one forward and the other slide back. I losened all nipples and let air out of tire suggested by another repair debits and that make a great difference, but no matter what.I just can't true this wheel... please help..
I think someone was screwing with you.Loosening the nipples has nothing to do with the brakes. You might be best off taking it to a shop. You have to retension the spokes which is usually done with a spoke tension gauge and a truing standing. Also a dishing tool. Not sure about the brakes. The fork may be bent, or the brakes damaged. Or maybe a bent axle...take it to a shop.
Here's how I did mine.
1. Loosen attachment bolt.
2. With free hand squeeze brake pads against wheel. This automatically centers them.
3. While still squeezing pads use other hand to tighten bolt.
4. Release pads and they should be centered.
Doesn't always work.
mine are moving from side to side with the allen key bolt tightened fully.
Sounds like something else is wrong on it. I can't tell you why without directly working on it. Either work to figure it out, or have a mechanic look at it.
on my bike this didnt work. the through bolt can be made gorilla tight and the arms still can move freely and my right side had a propensity to drag, putting washers behind the brake pads wouldnt even work after you pump tge lever a few times..... i had to take the pads off, take the wheel off, squeeze the assembly with my hand so its close to normal and then rotate the whole thing and give it a good oomph to effectively give the springs a proper adjustment. after i did this and got the wheel back on it was too much!!!! now the brake pad was dragging on the left side. i took it all apart again and got it perfect, and then i had to true up my wheel a bit and i got my brakes to where they are perfect. they hover a smidge off the rim and it doesnt take much lever pull and they have a real nice bite, wheel now rotates freely.