How to Clean and Overhaul Weinmann Sidepull Rim Brakes

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  • Опубликовано: 14 июл 2019
  • How to disassemble, clean, and overhaul Weinmann rim brakes used on old Schwinns and other classic bicycles. Overhauling old rim brakes is easy to do. Save money by fixing these brakes yourself.
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Комментарии • 40

  • @carolerobinson1352
    @carolerobinson1352 Месяц назад

    Thankyou, ladies step thruu motobecane being re built, very helpful

  • @gseeman6174
    @gseeman6174 2 года назад +4

    Thanks for this... my old brakes are back to almost new... I also love nevr-dull... I always have it around for cleaning guitar frets... so brakes working and looking great!

    • @GregDickerson-bikevideos
      @GregDickerson-bikevideos  2 года назад +2

      Glad to hear it worked for you. To me there's a thrill in taking an old bike and bringing it back to life.

  • @MrKingNica
    @MrKingNica 2 года назад +1

    Thank you so much for this Greg. Happy Holidays.

  • @JustinDoesTriathlon
    @JustinDoesTriathlon 3 года назад +3

    Hey Greg! Just wanted to drop a thanks your way for this. I've got a 1970 Schwinn Suburban that means a lot to me; it's my winter resto project, and this video is exactly what I've been needing. Cheers!

  • @lovelove9108
    @lovelove9108 3 года назад +3

    Thank goodness I found this video. Just what I needed. Thank you!!!

  • @GeeGnebAb
    @GeeGnebAb 3 года назад +1

    very helpful breakdown video, thank you alot

  • @guzmangil5476
    @guzmangil5476 3 года назад +2

    Thanks. I have to restore some and this was very helpful. There are some missing washers in mine, as I see.

  • @alexmiller1658
    @alexmiller1658 4 года назад +4

    Thank you! I have a set on my old motobecane I've been meaning to overhaul, this will be a good resource

    • @GregDickerson-bikevideos
      @GregDickerson-bikevideos  4 года назад +1

      It's good to hear about cyclists fixing up these older bikes. I'm glad you found this video helpful.

  • @keithayres2673
    @keithayres2673 3 года назад +1

    Greg, thank you for posting this, if you do it properly, you do it once!

  • @user-ri6qu3ur8r
    @user-ri6qu3ur8r 5 месяцев назад

    Thanks this was very helpful

  • @briansantiago3223
    @briansantiago3223 Год назад +1

    Buen video hermano !Nice

  • @gc6391
    @gc6391 8 месяцев назад +1

    If you use cooking foil / tin foil after the metal cleaning wadding and then paper, the brakes will shine way more.

    • @GregDickerson-bikevideos
      @GregDickerson-bikevideos  8 месяцев назад +1

      I'll have to try this. Regardless what you do, the metal will go back to its oxidized state unless you coat it with clear coat or you anodize the metal.

  • @VelidAgovic
    @VelidAgovic 3 года назад +1

    Amazing, thank you!

  • @juippi420
    @juippi420 3 года назад +2

    Thanks, ill try on my Terässipi 3000

  • @Wushu17
    @Wushu17 Год назад +1

    Hi. Is there a difference between the Rear and Front calibers on the Weinmann 810?

  • @pixrainbow
    @pixrainbow 3 года назад +2

    Really clear, and calming, thank you. Have you ever replaced the brake shoe inserts? Is it a matter of just pushing them in? Many thanks.

    • @GregDickerson-bikevideos
      @GregDickerson-bikevideos  3 года назад

      To replace the brake pads, remove the nut that holds them onto the brake arm. The new brake pads will come with the holder they are in. All you have to do is align them to the rim and tighten them. I may do a separate video on installing and adjusting brake shoes for rim brakes. Thank you for watching my channel.

    • @pixrainbow
      @pixrainbow 3 года назад +1

      @@GregDickerson-bikevideos Thank you Greg! What I was meaning was how to replace just the rubber part that fits in the aluminium housing of the brake pad. It looks like you can just push the old one out of the housing, then put the new piece of rubber in. It is possible to buy just the rubber insert, so hopefully it is fairly easy to fit. It's my aim to keep as much of the original metalwork as possible. Many thanks for your help.

    • @GregDickerson-bikevideos
      @GregDickerson-bikevideos  3 года назад

      @@pixrainbow Let me know how it works out if you do it. The old pads are crimped into the housing tight. I've never actually replaced just the pad by itself.

  • @boskoboskovic6249
    @boskoboskovic6249 3 года назад

    Is this possible on a Weinmann Symetric because there is no screw?

  • @koukouvania
    @koukouvania 3 года назад +1

    Greg, could i use the same process for my weinmann centre pulls?

    • @GregDickerson-bikevideos
      @GregDickerson-bikevideos  3 года назад

      Yes you can. The disassembly and assembly process will be different, but once apart the cleaning and polishing steps will be the same. Weinmann vintage brakes are fairly easy to work on. Be sure to keep track of the parts orientation during disassembly. Sometimes it's useful to take pictures to help with orientation of parts when reassembling. Thank you very much for watching my videos. I'm glad you found it helpful.

    • @koukouvania
      @koukouvania 3 года назад +1

      @@GregDickerson-bikevideos many thanks, I have attempted this once already (before seeing your video) and failed; I think because the aluminium parts were so pitted and rough; I didnt atttempt to polish them but now I know how I will try again.

  • @praveensharma3456
    @praveensharma3456 Год назад +1

    I have his exact brake on my front wheel but the brake lever is very hard to decompress while braking. How can I loosen it up a little bit?

    • @GregDickerson-bikevideos
      @GregDickerson-bikevideos  Год назад +1

      Before assuming it is the brake, try checking the cable. A frayed cable can cause this. If the cable housing is grimy on the inside or damaged it can affect the brakes that way. Also, check the brake levers themselves for damage. What I would do is disconnect the cable at the brake and check for binding or rough operation in the cable when you work the brake lever. If it binds you know the problem is with the cable (most likely) or the brake lever.

    • @praveensharma3456
      @praveensharma3456 Год назад

      @@GregDickerson-bikevideos good suggestion. I will do that!

  • @freebird1ification
    @freebird1ification 10 месяцев назад

    so you dont use any kind of polish on the aluminum parts ?

    • @GregDickerson-bikevideos
      @GregDickerson-bikevideos  10 месяцев назад

      No, I just use Nevr-Dull. All I want to do is remove the oxidation layer. If you like the bright shiny highly polished look you could use something like Simichrome or Flitz. Keep in mind that these parts are bare aluminum alloy, so they are going to go back to their oxidized state. Nevr-Dull brightens them up somewhat and is a lot easier to do.

    • @freebird1ification
      @freebird1ification 10 месяцев назад

      i tryed the never dull and it just dont come back as good as what you showed for me lol@@GregDickerson-bikevideos

  • @RatsoHeraldMan
    @RatsoHeraldMan 4 года назад +1

    As the right brake arm is badly bent at the cable stop point then the entire rebuild is a waste of time as braking force of this caliper would be really badly affected. Rather unsafe......

    • @GregDickerson-bikevideos
      @GregDickerson-bikevideos  4 года назад +4

      The brakes work fine, though I would agree that it would be better if the arm wasn't slightly bent. Since I didn't have a replacement arm for this brake, and the arm wasn't bent all that bad, I chose to go ahead and use the old arm. It would be very unsafe to try to straighten it since the metal would be weakened more from work hardening. One day I'll probably get another arm from a parts stash somewhere and replace it. Older front sidepull brakes are frequently bent like this when the front wheel gets turned too far, causing the brake arm to hit the frame.

    • @RatsoHeraldMan
      @RatsoHeraldMan 4 года назад +2

      These are fairly weak forgings in the first place and as you yourself say: the act of bending will weaken the metal further. The inner cable will now be misaligned and may well be chafing on the inside of the adjuster causing extra friction on the cable and possible damage to individual strands - for the sake of a cheap set of calipers why risk your life?