How to Master Dual Pivot Rim Brakes - Tips & Hacks
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- Опубликовано: 28 фев 2023
- Dual pivot rim brakes were the most common type of brakes on a road bike prior to the disc brakes era but still can be found on many road bikes. Here’s some tips on adjustment for rim brakes.
1. Alignment: Usually there is a hex bolt that goes thru the fork crown that can be adjusted with a 5 mm hex key. Loosen the bolt and hold the brake pads against the rim. Re-tighten.
Tip 1: But on some brakes there is a small set screw on the caliper opposite the cable that can be adjusted with 2- or 3-mm hex key. As you tighten the screw, it pushes on an internal spring (tightening the spring action) and moves the pad away from that side of the rim and ...the other pad closer to the rim. (Some Campagnolo, SRAM and a few Shimano dual pivot have a small 2mm hex which tightens or loosens the spring, making the brake both harder to pull and quicker to snap back).
2. Setting for lever throw (how far you have to pull before the brake is engaged) is set by barrel adjusters either up by the brake levers or down where the cable runs through the brake caliper. Turning the barrel adjuster out (usually counter clockwise) will move the pads toward the rim (thus making the brake lever engage sooner) and turning the barrel adjuster in the opposite direction will move them away from the rim (giving more brake lever action before the brakes engage).
Tip 2: To take pressure off the cable and make things easier, hold the brake pads against the rim with one hand while adjusting the barrel adjuster.
3. If the barrel adjuster is at its limit or fails to give an adequate feel to the brakes:
Tip 3: If you have these brake tools around - throw them out and get yourself a ratcheting bar clamp such as the Erwin Quick Grip or Jorgensen bar clamp (if you're also using a clamp for wood working or around the house) Jorgensen EZ-hold. Loosen the pinch bolt on the brake cable at the caliper. Turn the barrel adjuster all the way in and then out about 2-3 full turns. Attach the grip and adjust the brake pads until there is only a tiny space between the brake pads and rim. Pull the slack out of the cable and tighten the pinch bolt. Remove the grip and fine tune the barrel adjuster to give the brakes the desired feel.
4. If the brakes are making a squealing noise, check for toe-in (see the video in upper right). If there is a grinding like noise, you may have particle embedded in the brake pads themselves. We link on this at the end of the video.
5. Also, whenever you adjust the brake pads, make sure that you align pads hit the rim and not the tire - or you’ll blow out the tire due to heat of the brakes pad against the rubber. Make sure there’s adequate pad thickness by checking the groves in the brake pad itself for wear.
6. Finally, always give the brakes a test as part of your pre-ride check. Also check your breaks for correct alignment and for wear whenever you do routine maintenance. 
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Another down to earth and practical clip using basic tools. A terrific help to the cyclist wanting to do maintenance at home. Thanks again Tony for this great channel.
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
thank you so much for including the section on resetting the barrel adjuster! it's missing from most videos, even the professionally produced ones by brand manufacturers etc., which invariably will only walk you through initial installation and setup. your video on the other hand is focussing on the very realistic aspect of resetting brakes on a bike that's already been ridden, and was exactly what I needed, thank you for that!
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you Tony. I have learned so much from your videos, and always look forward to you uploading. Hope you are keeping well.
You're welcome, and yes, I am keeping busy and well. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Very helpful. cheers Tony!
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
thanks for the detailed tutorial
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great advice about using the clamps!
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I wish you were my grandpa. Thanks for the video!
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks. You're a life saver!
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Good video, thanks.
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
This helped alot, thankyou.
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Nice bikes tony, independent fab and litespeed! Show casing some of your personal bikes might make a fun video if you ever feel like you want to do that sort of thing. Thanks for the tips
You're welcome. Bicycle restoration is one of my hobbies. Most I have given away to friends, a few I have sold and few make up my collection. Those bicycle that are not worth restoration are dismantled for parts to use on other bicycles I find. I did one series on bicycle restoration ("This Old Bike") but will consider your suggestion on taking a look at some of the restored or upgraded bikes I own. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Nice Litespeed in this video. Love it. My dad has a 2001 Ultimate with that yellow Look fork he got new and has put 30,000 miles on and I loved it so much when I rode it I got my own Arenberg a few years ago. Mine has the grey Look fork. Love the Ultegra groupsets
Thanks. I restored the frame in this 1990 Lightspeed and updated some of the components. It's a great ride. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks! Fronts are squeaking. Just watched the other video. Wish me luck!
Let me know how it goes and if I can be of more assistance. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Nice!!! Just watched one of your other vids - I'm on a 2001 Litespeed Arenberg! I have that same grey Look fork =]
Thank you. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great explanation on how to adjust bike brakes. So my brake pads are right against the rim, do I need to clockwise the opposite screw of the cable, tnx.
Sounds like the brake cable needs to be loosened a tiny bit at the pinch bolt on the brake. The screw adjustment on the side of dual pivot brakes is for centering. For more info see the following Park Tool video:
ruclips.net/video/q4ay12CSF48/видео.html
Hope this helps. Regards, Tony
I use a brake tuner and a clamp at the same time. This way I can adjust pad gap and toe the pads at the same time.
I've use a Tacx tool with great success. What kind of brake tuner do you use?
@@tony10speed same
Disc brakes are the way to go.
here is no question in my mind that disc brakes (especially hydraulic disc brakes) give you superior braking power over rim brakes. However, rim brakes are far easier to maintain. Here's a great review of disc vs rim brakes that's well worth watching:
ruclips.net/video/tX82dvPDuEE/видео.html
Thanks for your question. Regards. Tony
Disc brakes not necessary!
I found out one of my brake pads on the front is not set fully on the rim. Hopefully I’ll be able to get it adjusted tomorrow, don’t have the right tools right now.
Let me know how you make out or if I can help. Regards, Tony
Hey Tony thank you so much for this video. I spend 3 hours fixing my rear pivotal break which is not opening after pressing break. And after watching the video its still not working right. I can manually open the gap but after pressing break it stays rubbing on the rim. Can you give me few things i can work with please? wire is fine, but can't figure out whats the issue
May be several things:
1. May need new brake cable (and possibly new housing). The cable may be jamming when the lever is closed.
2. When you disconnect the brake cable at the duel pivot brake, can you move the brake to close on the rim and does it bounce back away from the rim when you let go. If not, there may be some corrosion or rust involving the pivot of the brake. Clean and lubricate the brake and pivot points.
3. The brake lever under the brake hood may be gunked up, dirty or broken. If you've replaced the cable (and housing) and it's still not working, try some WD-40 on the brake lever (under the brake hood attached to the handlebars).
Let me know if any of the above solve the problem. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Hiya, It was still stuck after removing the cable. I don't know what worked but the lever spring decompresses fully now. I tried tightening some screws and it worked. Thank you for your detailed explanation, it was helpful. Cheers!
Thanks for the feedback. Regards and safe cycling, Tony@@vishalsejwal573
Once set, why would you have to change things such as the barrel adjuster or cable at the pinch bolt?
You need to reset rim brakes when:
1. As rim brake pads wear they'll be further from the rim and need adjustment
2. When you replace rim brake pads (to make room for the thicker newer pads)
3. Squealing due to improper "toe-in" or just break pad wear resulting in the need to re-do "toe-in"
4. You may need to align the brakes if the hex bolt connecting the brakes to the frame was not tightened to specs and the brake alignment jiggles out of position
5. If the bike was knocked over or improperly set against a wall or other object
6. When you replace brake cables or housing
What if there is no barrel adjuster such as the Shimano Shadow derailleur?
Inline cable barrel adjusters are available for brake or derailleurs for $15 to $20 and would solve the problem of fine adjustment. Here's a video on installation (the same is true for brake or derailleur cable but be sure you get the one for brake or derailleur):
ruclips.net/video/2zUhwdXj7wc/видео.html
Regards, Tony
Are some rim brakes better then others?
There are many types of rim brakes. Linear and cantilever brakes have been used on mountain bikes for years (before the advent of disc brakes) because of their superior brake performance over single pivot brakes that had been available. Now, with the advent of dual pivot brakes such as the Shimano Ultegra and Dura Ace dual pivot, braking performance is almost at the level found with linear/cantilever brakes. Having used the Shimano Ultegra Dual Pivot brakes, I am impressed with there stopping ability. See the following:
bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/ultegra-r8000/BR-R8000.html
And here's a comparison of some of the top dual pivot brakes available:
www.cyclist.co.uk/buying-guides/rim-brakes-a-buyers-guide
Thanks for the question. Regards, Tony