Well done video. Thanks. I've had the same issue on my 2012 cbr1000rr 30K miles. I managed to do as you say, make a short, stubby flat head screw driver and wind the tensioner screw all the way in and then released it abruptly, allowing the pin to reset and fully wedge itself against the chain guide tensioner rail. The process gave enough tension to the chain to take up the slack and get rid of the vibration noise around 4K RPM. One thing I would recommend while doing that is to put the bike in 6th gear, while it's on a bike stand and apply tension to the rear wheel pushing it forward. Doing this allows the timing chain inside the engine to fully tighten up on the drive side and fully loosen up on the opposite tensioner slack side. Have a second person apply tension to the wheel in previously decried manner while you wind up and release the tensioner screw. This will give maximum allowable chain tension. Additionally I would discourage the use of commonly available manual chain tensioners, since when using those you are recommended to remove the valve cover to get to the timing chain and acquire the proper tension measurement between the cam shaft gears for setting the manual tensioner bolt. It would be easy to overtighten the manual tensioner leading to possible premature wear on the timing drive components. Stick to the OEM CCT, since that's the part that was designed by Honda engineers for those engines. Cheers.
I just bought a new camchain tensioner assembly for my 2010 Fireblade which as developed this problem. I inspected the new part when it arrived and it has a tiny oil feed hole that pressurises a check valve inside the tensioner assembly. So the tension is applied by an internal spring but oil pressure and an internal check valve ensures that the tensioner piston cannot return back into the tensioner body, and thus correct tension is maintained. The spring tension by itself is not sufficient to maintain correct chain tension. Notice that here is a tiny hole in the gasket between the tensioner assembly and the cylinder block and this is where pressurised oil is bled into the tensioner assembly. I think the problem with these tensioners is that the internal check valve fails and then obviously, the correct tension can no longer be maintained. So bear this in mind if you manually reset the tensioner assembly using a small screwdriver. It may only be a temporary fix.
I’ve just got this problem recently so I’ve just decided to just go n buy a whole new oem cam chain tensioner £150 all bits needed. Kinda scared me at first but more relieved it’s not a very expensive fix :) Your vid has helped shed some more light for me. Cheers buddy
Most of the time this trick doesn't work, the CCT is a spring loaded rod, OEM CCT's comes with a shitty spring that has a short term life, instead of just selling the spring alone they make you buy the entire assy wich costs between 80-100$, best solution to this is to buy an APE manual cam tensioner for about 40$ the only bug about this is that you have to adjust the tensioner yourself once in a while, but compared to 80$ every 20,000miles for a new CCT I think is really worth it, I have them installed on my bikes.
I know right I want to know if my sound is the same. It's annoying and loud as fuck. It sounds like a very fast tin vibration buzz... You have the same? It's coming from near the clutch basket or something. FUCK
I have a 09 cbr600 also with a rattle at about 3500-5500 rpm. Also sounds like a tin rattling or like key holder on the frame. Have ruled out EVERYTHING!
Thank you so much for making this video. Have had this issue on my 2014 CBR 1kRR for some time now. I am not the best mechanic but am going to attempt to do this today
Another thing you can do is to gently tap the tensioner from the side with a wooden spoon and a rubber mallet. Just give it a few taps and the thing should click to the next position. Cheers.
@@-0-___ right. A few good smacks helps sometimes. if it's in a hard to reach place you can hold the shaft firmly against the tensioner and tap it (lightly) with the end of a screwdriver or something. Good luck!
Dead on thanks for the video only difference was the hdx screwdriver didn't work on mine so had to get one a little longer but it fixed vibration I had at higher rpm on my 1995 cbr900rr. Thanks again
YEAH MAN!!! I get this stupid rattle going over 5k RPM on my cbr 600 RR 2011. only 23k miles. I got new plugs cos it's time to change my 10yr old plugs XD but yeah I need to do this.
i think i have the same problem ,ive posted a youtube vid with the noise , but i want to take the bike to a mechanic and get the whole clutch casing down and the oil and see what’s up
I have a 2012 cbr1000rr with only 10k miles on it and it sounds like cam chain noise at 5-6k rpm. Anybody hear of this at this low of miles? Gona try this trick tho.
Well done video. Thanks. I've had the same issue on my 2012 cbr1000rr
30K miles. I managed to do as you say, make a short, stubby flat head
screw driver and wind the tensioner screw all the way in and then
released it abruptly, allowing the pin to reset and fully wedge itself
against the chain guide tensioner rail. The process gave enough tension
to the chain to take up the slack and get rid of the vibration noise
around 4K RPM. One thing I would recommend while doing that is to put
the bike in 6th gear, while it's on a bike stand and apply tension to
the rear wheel pushing it forward. Doing this allows the timing chain
inside the engine to fully tighten up on the drive side and fully loosen
up on the opposite tensioner slack side. Have a second person apply
tension to the wheel in previously decried manner while you wind up and
release the tensioner screw. This will give maximum allowable chain
tension. Additionally I would discourage the use of commonly available
manual chain tensioners, since when using those you are recommended to
remove the valve cover to get to the timing chain and acquire the proper
tension measurement between the cam shaft gears for setting the manual
tensioner bolt. It would be easy to overtighten the manual tensioner
leading to possible premature wear on the timing drive components. Stick
to the OEM CCT, since that's the part that was designed by Honda
engineers for those engines. Cheers.
How do you release the cct after winding it up?
@@jtslev you just pull the flat head straight out and it will unwind and spring the tensioner forward
I just bought a new camchain tensioner assembly for my 2010 Fireblade which as developed this problem. I inspected the new part when it arrived and it has a tiny oil feed hole that pressurises a check valve inside the tensioner assembly. So the tension is applied by an internal spring but oil pressure and an internal check valve ensures that the tensioner piston cannot return back into the tensioner body, and thus correct tension is maintained. The spring tension by itself is not sufficient to maintain correct chain tension. Notice that here is a tiny hole in the gasket between the tensioner assembly and the cylinder block and this is where pressurised oil is bled into the tensioner assembly. I think the problem with these tensioners is that the internal check valve fails and then obviously, the correct tension can no longer be maintained. So bear this in mind if you manually reset the tensioner assembly using a small screwdriver. It may only be a temporary fix.
I’ve just got this problem recently so I’ve just decided to just go n buy a whole new oem cam chain tensioner £150 all bits needed. Kinda scared me at first but more relieved it’s not a very expensive fix :) Your vid has helped shed some more light for me. Cheers buddy
150 for a cct :o what bike you got? Sounds way overpriced
Most of the time this trick doesn't work, the CCT is a spring loaded rod, OEM CCT's comes with a shitty spring that has a short term life, instead of just selling the spring alone they make you buy the entire assy wich costs between 80-100$, best solution to this is to buy an APE manual cam tensioner for about 40$ the only bug about this is that you have to adjust the tensioner yourself once in a while, but compared to 80$ every 20,000miles for a new CCT I think is really worth it, I have them installed on my bikes.
why didn't you make a video showing what it sounded like before with rattle? that's what everyone wants to hear
I know right I want to know if my sound is the same. It's annoying and loud as fuck. It sounds like a very fast tin vibration buzz... You have the same? It's coming from near the clutch basket or something. FUCK
I have a 09 cbr600 also with a rattle at about 3500-5500 rpm. Also sounds like a tin rattling or like key holder on the frame. Have ruled out EVERYTHING!
@@eileenvanzyl7503 forgot to say, tighten all the bolts around that neck ram air fairing upper stay thingie. 4bolts
@@eileenvanzyl7503 i have same problem on my 954,did you solved it?
@@racing0eaglehave you been able to figure it out?
This video helped me. Thank you.
I made the little screw driver tool out of an Alan wrench when I had it out the other day
Thank you so much for making this video. Have had this issue on my 2014 CBR 1kRR for some time now. I am not the best mechanic but am going to attempt to do this today
Did as you said and so far, no more clicking. 👉👍
It came back already.
did you ever fix it completely?
Some people think it's the motor sometimes and it's the tensioner 🏍🔥🎉🔥🔥🎉
Another thing you can do is to gently tap the tensioner from the side with a wooden spoon and a rubber mallet. Just give it a few taps and the thing should click to the next position. Cheers.
So you literally just smack it with it still in the bike?
@@-0-___ right. A few good smacks helps sometimes. if it's in a hard to reach place you can hold the shaft firmly against the tensioner and tap it (lightly) with the end of a screwdriver or something. Good luck!
@@michor10 thanks man hopefully that works
@@-0-___ what bike are you working on?
@@michor10 2001 cbr f4i
Dead on thanks for the video only difference was the hdx screwdriver didn't work on mine so had to get one a little longer but it fixed vibration I had at higher rpm on my 1995 cbr900rr. Thanks again
I have the same problem. Hopefully you can send me some pics of the spec sheets of how to replace or adjusted. Thanks
Bad ass bike you have there (pedal bike that part killed me hAha
Your funny 😂😂😂 my assistant that I don’t have 😭
Thanks bro
YEAH MAN!!! I get this stupid rattle going over 5k RPM on my cbr 600 RR 2011. only 23k miles. I got new plugs cos it's time to change my 10yr old plugs XD but yeah I need to do this.
Hero
i think i have the same problem ,ive posted a youtube vid with the noise , but i want to take the bike to a mechanic and get the whole clutch casing down and the oil and see what’s up
I dont understand why youd buy a manual one, once released you can just give that flat screw a bit of tighten
Could this be a problem on the cb300f? You dont have a sound clip, i dont know if your sound matches my sound.
What do you mean by "release it"
Hi good vid did this do the trick?
isn't counter clockwise?
no you tighten the screw. its clockwise.
👍👍👍👍
Which way do I wind it ?
Counter-clockwise
@@alfonse0745 i see on this video he did it clockwise, thats whats confusing me now
I have a 2012 cbr1000rr with only 10k miles on it and it sounds like cam chain noise at 5-6k rpm. Anybody hear of this at this low of miles? Gona try this trick tho.
Sorry man not to be a tool...do this with the bike off or started. Thanks