Hey Demon! Just wanted to give you an update we finally got the valve cover off the timing chain jumped timing really bad! So we’re in the process of re-timing. The motor now moves 360 deg by hand! So I just wanted to say thank you sir! I’ll keep you updated! Thank you again!
Great video and doing it while the engine is not running is better in my book. Would like to also add this is the same process with the cbr900rr as well, granted it has an adjustable manual CCT. Great information!!!
Thank you. I have the APE manual cct installed simply because it strains the cam chain less (when properly adjusted) versus the auto adjuster (tons of extra tension)
The Real RRDemon I have the exact same CCT on my 93 cbr900rr!! Have had problems in the past with the auto CCT's not adjusting properly so I go manual as soon as I can on every bike I buy lol
It is a worthwhile mod... ad long as you check and adjust it regularly! I would love that early of a Blade... but carbs and I never seem to get along well....
Hey man! I love your videos, please keep them going their fantastic bro! Its great to see someone loving these older bikes.... I have two CBR250RRs one is 1996 and the otger is 1988.... also an RVF400 1997 model.....all three are great little 4cylinders. The 250s are inline 4s and the 400 is a v4. I want to get either a 954 or a 929.... they only have a 2 hp difference i read. And we also have a CBR919RR! Very fast bike! Much love from Australia. 😊
+Samuel Fitzsimmons I want an NC23 so so very bad.... but you will be hard pressed to find one in the U.S. Something about them was always just... amazing... the style of those things.... Definitely have a love for the 954 and 929. Even if I get a newer 'Blade I intend to keep Serenity around.
I picked up an 03 954rr with 60k miles on it. How can i tell if cct needs replaced? From what I have found there's very little else that goes wrong with these engines ...doesn't burn a drop of oil. I also have 2 1990 vfr 750's...one with over 100k miles on it and still runs like new.
+Jim Ring the cct will usually get pretty noisy when it gets close. It will be a chain rattle sound... almost like a neglected drive chain I guess is as close as i can describe, coming from the right side. Usually more prominent at idle
I’m trading my f4i for a 954rr 03 and it the two mechanics I had check it out says valve adjustment and the cct needs changed too a manual. How difficult is it too change it?
I just recently got a 2003 cbr954rr and it has a slight chain rattle i bought a ape cct ill be putting it on the bike soon thanks for making a good step by step video on how to adjust it properly
Hello. i heard that it is a pain to change the oem or mount the manual cct due to position of it,is it true?! i am planning to do that on my own bike. Thx
+Eugen Moldovan a pain? Depends on your experience and aptitude for tearing half of your bike apart.... I still have nightmares about it >=/ It is do-able with the engine in place (I had to unbolt mine and drop the front of the engine a few inches) but it would definitely not be easy
About that unbolting the engine and tilting in front i am nervous,every forum i read it was the only option. hope i can do it without unbolting the engine. Thx dude.
really helps when you are trying to fully extract the plunger. But, if you have it already retracted all the way (and locked back) you might be able to get it done.
Any one else get tank slappers on the 954??? I just bought one about a month ago and it did the wobble on me now I’m scared to ride it how I want to I still have been driving it but not riding it
Steering damper is your friend! I have an Öhlins damper up front to keep the wobble in check. Still happens on a mild scale from time to time, but they are easier to power through and keep going.
The Real RRDemon thanks bud it scared the shit out of me so I’ve been scared to hit it agin and it’s still new to me so I’ve been look at the 954 on RUclips looks like they all have this problem. But thanks that was what I needed to know
Fairly common complaint. Find a decent damper, get it dialed in to where it is comfortable (I'm 2 clicks from full stiff on mine), and you should be fine. The front end gets up kind of easy... even if you just get it light enough it gets squirrelly...
So I replaced the cct wrong I’m guessing now my motor won’t turn past 180 degrees? Just clicking? Does that mean I bent a valve? Or jumped teeth? Thank you?
If you removed the bar above the cams and rotated at any point.... you jumped time and are bumping against a valve. Remove the chain and reset your cam position after setting pistons to tdc. Should be outter cam indicators flush with head of i am not mistaken.
So I had guy come look at it last night? He said it could be a bent valve? Could a valve get bent with out it ever turning over? The motor will only spin 180 degrees by hand?
If you didn't spin it fast/hard by hand it should've gently stopped by the valve without damage. I did the same thing one time and never took any actual damage.
The bike never actually ran after putting the adjustable tensioner on? So I don’t see how I could’ve bent a valve? Or do I not know what I’m talking about? So I need to drop the whole motor to check any of this out you think?
you ever have a problem with a ticking noise in the head? i checked the cct wasnt that when revup itll tick faster and louder didnt feel any loss of power started making the sound out of no where.
+Christopher Thurman same deal here actually... maybe 1500 miles after checking valve clearances. Can't hear it through the side fairing vent, but if you get up to the top of that fairing by the frame you can hear it.
Just started getting a cold engine tick in my 02 after an oil change, goes away in about 30-60 seconds of very easy driving (I don't hit the gas hard until the engine gets up to temp). I went to a cheaper K&N oil filter and I think it may be the problem. It's been raining a lot so I'll see if it continues when it dries up, if it does I'll go back to an OEM Honda filter and see if there is a difference.
i have a 2002 cbr 954rr and my cct just eent bad. the upper cct bolt cannot be removed is there a certain tool to remove it? its in a really tight place please help how did u remove it!
It is possible without dropping the engine... but it is VERY hard to get at. Basically move everything out from the top of it (as I did in the vid to get to the adjustment bolt) and then get a wrench on it. You will literally get 1/8th of a turn on it at a time >=[ Short of dropping the front of the engine down 4"+ to actually get clearance (I have done that.. I do not recommend it) this is the only way to do it. Once it is loose enough you can back it out with your fingers. It takes me about 20 minutes of fighting to get it out that far.. just grab a snickers and keep at it! Installation is also the same.. finger tighten it as much as you can and slowly attack it from the top 1/8th turn at a time.
The smaller the wrench in this case the better. If memory serves me right.. which I'm getting old and senile... I think it is an 8mm wrench. I believe I tried sockets with extensions, deep-well sockets with and without extensions... and just about every other "trick" way to get to it. Unfortunately there just does not really seem to be an easy way to get at it. Best of luck- let me know how it turns out!
hey bro! i removed the cct rebuilt it and then put it back in. i think the sound is not from the cct because it is making a strong knocking sound. like this one ruclips.net/video/r7zJWDFdXB8/видео.html
@@TheRealRRDemon Will a 8mm bannana wrench be of better help? I really don't want to drop the engine a couple of inches, but if it will save me my sanity, I may have to drop the engine. I assume its just a couple of engine mounts at the front only? Do you happen to know the torque values by any chance? Will just one hydraulic jack be enough for support? Or will it also need a 'block and tackle' with support above?
Hey , when you turned the motor until the compression let out , why do you turn it after that while you are adjusting the tensioner? I’m trying to adjust mine right now and I’m having a hard tine
It's best to do it without the plus in actually so you don't have to fight the compression. But you want the cam chain in motion with at least some tension on it via the engine rotating
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Hey Demon! Just wanted to give you an update we finally got the valve cover off the timing chain jumped timing really bad! So we’re in the process of re-timing. The motor now moves 360 deg by hand! So I just wanted to say thank you sir! I’ll keep you updated! Thank you again!
Great video and doing it while the engine is not running is better in my book. Would like to also add this is the same process with the cbr900rr as well, granted it has an adjustable manual CCT. Great information!!!
Thank you. I have the APE manual cct installed simply because it strains the cam chain less (when properly adjusted) versus the auto adjuster (tons of extra tension)
The Real RRDemon I have the exact same CCT on my 93 cbr900rr!! Have had problems in the past with the auto CCT's not adjusting properly so I go manual as soon as I can on every bike I buy lol
It is a worthwhile mod... ad long as you check and adjust it regularly! I would love that early of a Blade... but carbs and I never seem to get along well....
Hey man! I love your videos, please keep them going their fantastic bro! Its great to see someone loving these older bikes.... I have two CBR250RRs one is 1996 and the otger is 1988.... also an RVF400 1997 model.....all three are great little 4cylinders. The 250s are inline 4s and the 400 is a v4. I want to get either a 954 or a 929.... they only have a 2 hp difference i read. And we also have a CBR919RR! Very fast bike! Much love from Australia. 😊
+Samuel Fitzsimmons I want an NC23 so so very bad.... but you will be hard pressed to find one in the U.S. Something about them was always just... amazing... the style of those things....
Definitely have a love for the 954 and 929. Even if I get a newer 'Blade I intend to keep Serenity around.
I picked up an 03 954rr with 60k miles on it. How can i tell if cct needs replaced? From what I have found there's very little else that goes wrong with these engines ...doesn't burn a drop of oil. I also have 2 1990 vfr 750's...one with over 100k miles on it and still runs like new.
+Jim Ring the cct will usually get pretty noisy when it gets close. It will be a chain rattle sound... almost like a neglected drive chain I guess is as close as i can describe, coming from the right side. Usually more prominent at idle
I’m trading my f4i for a 954rr 03 and it the two mechanics I had check it out says valve adjustment and the cct needs changed too a manual. How difficult is it too change it?
It can be a pain. Personally I would stick with the auto tensioner and just replace it.
I just recently got a 2003 cbr954rr and it has a slight chain rattle i bought a ape cct ill be putting it on the bike soon thanks for making a good step by step video on how to adjust it properly
Hopefully it will help you out. Removing it is pretty much the same except you remove both bolts.
If you have any questions hit me up on FB messenger.
Facebook.com/therealrrdemon
So we have timing hopefully on point! Still won’t start? Motor is turning with starter but we can’t figure out why it won’t run?
Tengo q estar ajustando la cadenilla cada 5000 millas ?
Hello. i heard that it is a pain to change the oem or mount the manual cct due to position of it,is it true?!
i am planning to do that on my own bike. Thx
+Eugen Moldovan a pain? Depends on your experience and aptitude for tearing half of your bike apart.... I still have nightmares about it >=/
It is do-able with the engine in place (I had to unbolt mine and drop the front of the engine a few inches) but it would definitely not be easy
About that unbolting the engine and tilting in front i am nervous,every forum i read it was the only option. hope i can do it without unbolting the engine. Thx dude.
really helps when you are trying to fully extract the plunger. But, if you have it already retracted all the way (and locked back) you might be able to get it done.
Any one else get tank slappers on the 954??? I just bought one about a month ago and it did the wobble on me now I’m scared to ride it how I want to I still have been driving it but not riding it
Steering damper is your friend! I have an Öhlins damper up front to keep the wobble in check. Still happens on a mild scale from time to time, but they are easier to power through and keep going.
The Real RRDemon thanks bud it scared the shit out of me so I’ve been scared to hit it agin and it’s still new to me so I’ve been look at the 954 on RUclips looks like they all have this problem. But thanks that was what I needed to know
Fairly common complaint. Find a decent damper, get it dialed in to where it is comfortable (I'm 2 clicks from full stiff on mine), and you should be fine. The front end gets up kind of easy... even if you just get it light enough it gets squirrelly...
thanks for the vid man!
Didn't see another one for the 954... figured or hoped it might help some people.
so is the tensioner you're adjusting the automatic one originally fitted?
No, the automatic tensioner does not require adjustment. This was the A.P.E. manual cct.
@@TheRealRRDemon well mine does as its making a racket on startup 🙁
That means replacement. You can try retracting it fully and releasing it, but most likely will have to be replaced.
@@TheRealRRDemon ok, thanks for the info
No worries, switching one out is not too bad... give it about 2 hours fine block and take your time doing it.
Thank you!
So I replaced the cct wrong I’m guessing now my motor won’t turn past 180 degrees? Just clicking? Does that mean I bent a valve? Or jumped teeth? Thank you?
If you removed the bar above the cams and rotated at any point.... you jumped time and are bumping against a valve. Remove the chain and reset your cam position after setting pistons to tdc. Should be outter cam indicators flush with head of i am not mistaken.
So I had guy come look at it last night? He said it could be a bent valve? Could a valve get bent with out it ever turning over? The motor will only spin 180 degrees by hand?
Thank you for your help btw I’m pissed about this
If you didn't spin it fast/hard by hand it should've gently stopped by the valve without damage. I did the same thing one time and never took any actual damage.
The bike never actually ran after putting the adjustable tensioner on? So I don’t see how I could’ve bent a valve? Or do I not know what I’m talking about? So I need to drop the whole motor to check any of this out you think?
why does nobody start the motor after a cct adjustment on these videos?
No need if you do it right? Lmao
you ever have a problem with a ticking noise in the head? i checked the cct wasnt that when revup itll tick faster and louder didnt feel any loss of power started making the sound out of no where.
+Christopher Thurman same deal here actually... maybe 1500 miles after checking valve clearances. Can't hear it through the side fairing vent, but if you get up to the top of that fairing by the frame you can hear it.
The Real RRDemon mine seemed like it got worse I have the motor off the bike as of now
Just started getting a cold engine tick in my 02 after an oil change, goes away in about 30-60 seconds of very easy driving (I don't hit the gas hard until the engine gets up to temp). I went to a cheaper K&N oil filter and I think it may be the problem. It's been raining a lot so I'll see if it continues when it dries up, if it does I'll go back to an OEM Honda filter and see if there is a difference.
You figure this out?
What oil did you use? Mine did the same thing when I ran 10w30
i have a 2002 cbr 954rr and my cct just eent bad. the upper cct bolt cannot be removed is there a certain tool to remove it? its in a really tight place please help how did u remove it!
It is possible without dropping the engine... but it is VERY hard to get at. Basically move everything out from the top of it (as I did in the vid to get to the adjustment bolt) and then get a wrench on it. You will literally get 1/8th of a turn on it at a time >=[ Short of dropping the front of the engine down 4"+ to actually get clearance (I have done that.. I do not recommend it) this is the only way to do it. Once it is loose enough you can back it out with your fingers. It takes me about 20 minutes of fighting to get it out that far.. just grab a snickers and keep at it! Installation is also the same.. finger tighten it as much as you can and slowly attack it from the top 1/8th turn at a time.
The Real RRDemon okay man thank you ill see what i can do i dont mind 1/8 turns but my wrench was a bit wide so couldn't move it at all.
The smaller the wrench in this case the better. If memory serves me right.. which I'm getting old and senile... I think it is an 8mm wrench. I believe I tried sockets with extensions, deep-well sockets with and without extensions... and just about every other "trick" way to get to it. Unfortunately there just does not really seem to be an easy way to get at it. Best of luck- let me know how it turns out!
hey bro! i removed the cct rebuilt it and then put it back in. i think the sound is not from the cct because it is making a strong knocking sound. like this one ruclips.net/video/r7zJWDFdXB8/видео.html
@@TheRealRRDemon Will a 8mm bannana wrench be of better help? I really don't want to drop the engine a couple of inches, but if it will save me my sanity, I may have to drop the engine. I assume its just a couple of engine mounts at the front only? Do you happen to know the torque values by any chance? Will just one hydraulic jack be enough for support? Or will it also need a 'block and tackle' with support above?
what do i do aftere i instal te manuel cct and it starts whining
Most likely you have it set too tight... but just a guess
Where’d you get that rubber tank pad?
Motosport.com but I am not sure they still have them. I wanted to replace it a couple years ago but have not been able to track down another one
The Real RRDemon damn that blows! Thanks for the fast reply dude!
For sure. If you find that design shoot me a message where... I need to grab one for when I paint the tank
Hey , when you turned the motor until the compression let out , why do you turn it after that while you are adjusting the tensioner? I’m trying to adjust mine right now and I’m having a hard tine
It's best to do it without the plus in actually so you don't have to fight the compression. But you want the cam chain in motion with at least some tension on it via the engine rotating
what year is this
2019.... lmao
The bike is an '02 though