New to your channel (uk subscriber), some great info here. Track day planned on my 954 in May so keen to get suspension right, it was juddering on the last one. You said 30 to 35 mm for the front pre-load sag is best, is that the same measurement for the rear?
Yeah, pretty much 30 to 35 front and rear. Let me/us know how the track day goes! Remember... easy on the throttle out of turns... the 954 is great at getting that front end light! Does not work out great coming out to a turn. I figured this out a few times with my steering damper dialed down to almost off...... brown stain moments ftw...
Preload/Sag-wise: The general rule of thumb is you should use 1/3rd total travel for the street, 1/4th for the track. A quick look at Honda's website tells me the 954 has about 105mm worth of travel up front, and about 130mm in the rear. So the standard recommendation for a street rider on a 954 is about 35mm of sag up front, and 43mm in the rear. You can play games with ride heights by stiffening up the rear some, but since the 954 is not known to be a slow-steering bike! would recommend trying these numbers first. The 35/43mm should be measured as the difference between fully extended, and with you seated on the bike, in riding position. *Notes for lurkers from CycleForums*
very usefull video,just this morning i was talking about the suspension of my 954,when im riding to seems to be in the luna park lol i have an aftermarket shock behinde (Matris) and front forks stock..my problem is the forks it's way too soft (it doesn't bottom out),my mechanic said that it can be the fork oil that is soft. to be honest i don't know what to do,i have a friend of mine that wants to swap my forks (he is a 954 owner too) with his forks (he has a gsxr 1000 k8 forks) and i don't know if i want to fix this or wait until i will swap it for the other one
+Mauro 954rr fork swaps are not too bad, but they can be a bit tricky with the 954s rotors being 330mm (vs 310/320 for most others). You can actually rebuild the forks with better valves and spring them to your weight! They also make heavier fork oil (10w is standard, 15w will stiffen up the compression a lot). I would at least grab some springs for your weight (with gear on) and try a rebuild. RaceTech makes reasonable priced valves and springs.
thanks for the advice! for the forks the guy will give me everything,(spacers for the calipers,front fender,brake lines and the front axel that makes me to keep the front wheels from the 954),the forks can be mounted on the 954 triple clamps as well
Two things to remember either way you go. If you rebuild your current stock forks you will notice a difference in the way the bike handles. It will probably be a very noticeable change (sometimes for the better, sometimes just different). If you switch out to the K8 forks are going to require some special parts (though included) that are not going to be easy to find/replace if necessary. I know the wheel spacers have to be "custom" made, not sure on the brackets for the calipers. Not a huge issue... I've never had to replace my stock spacers, but it is nice to know that I can just order them IF I need to.. Either way.. the bike is going to handle very differently. I am not sure if the K8 had BPF's or not... but if they are balance free big piston forks... would probably be a nice upgrade.
the suzuki gsxr 1000 k8 forks it's an upside down radial forks (that's the reason why im swapping) ,the front wheel will be from the 954,the spacers i need them between the bottom of the forks and the calipers because the 954 has 330mm disks,the radial calipers the guy will send them with the forks
You will have to make sure the wheel spacers between the forks and wheels are correct too. If it is too tight your forks will bind up. Too loose and your wheel can travel back and forth between the forks on the axle.
+Mauro 954rr I tend to keep a notebook with all of my maintenance in it. Nothing fancy, just a composition book with the date, mileage, and what I did. I have the last few pages of the book reserved for suspension adjustments and just flip back to it if I want to make a change.
ho posseduto la 954! In effetti la forcella è poco sostenuta, alla fine la mia regolazione erano: precarico e compressione tutto chiuso e estensione sfrenata di 3 giri sempre da tutto chiuso! Ho provato a 3 giri e mezzo l'estensione, ma ti davi la piastra di sterzo sui denti appena mollavi i freni! In questo modo la moto era sostenuta nelle staccate e molto reattiva, non soffriva neanche le buche, merito del ritorno un pò sfrenato! Per il mono avevo un sag ride corretto con il precarico alla settima tacca, compressione 1 giro da tutto chiuso e estensione a 3 giri!
Miss your videos on the 954rr, I learned alot from them
I am glad you have enjoyed them. I have at least one more video coming explaining where I've gone.... at since point.
That would be awesome to see you back....either be the 954rr or any other bike..like how your really detailed and honest about them...
So I just picked up a 954 this past weekend... And my fork adjustments are backwards...I think I'm gonna have to rebuild the forks
good night.need the help of you my friends. the tail fairing rear of the cbr 954rr it fits in the cbr 929rr.the seats are also the same?
I cant turn my forks preload adjustment, do you know what could it be?
Best guess... just frozen from not being adjusted in too long
You still post videos
New to your channel (uk subscriber), some great info here. Track day planned on my 954 in May so keen to get suspension right, it was juddering on the last one. You said 30 to 35 mm for the front pre-load sag is best, is that the same measurement for the rear?
I'll double check and get back to you, but that sounds about right.
Yeah, pretty much 30 to 35 front and rear. Let me/us know how the track day goes! Remember... easy on the throttle out of turns... the 954 is great at getting that front end light! Does not work out great coming out to a turn. I figured this out a few times with my steering damper dialed down to almost off...... brown stain moments ftw...
Preload/Sag-wise: The general rule of thumb is you should use 1/3rd total travel for the street, 1/4th for the track. A quick look at Honda's website tells me the 954 has about 105mm worth of travel up front, and about 130mm in the rear. So the standard recommendation for a street rider on a 954 is about 35mm of sag up front, and 43mm in the rear. You can play games with ride heights by stiffening up the rear some, but since the 954 is not known to be a slow-steering bike! would recommend trying these numbers first. The 35/43mm should be measured as the difference between fully extended, and with you seated on the bike, in riding position. *Notes for lurkers from CycleForums*
very usefull video,just this morning i was talking about the suspension of my 954,when im riding to seems to be in the luna park lol i have an aftermarket shock behinde (Matris) and front forks stock..my problem is the forks it's way too soft (it doesn't bottom out),my mechanic said that it can be the fork oil that is soft. to be honest i don't know what to do,i have a friend of mine that wants to swap my forks (he is a 954 owner too) with his forks (he has a gsxr 1000 k8 forks) and i don't know if i want to fix this or wait until i will swap it for the other one
+Mauro 954rr fork swaps are not too bad, but they can be a bit tricky with the 954s rotors being 330mm (vs 310/320 for most others).
You can actually rebuild the forks with better valves and spring them to your weight! They also make heavier fork oil (10w is standard, 15w will stiffen up the compression a lot).
I would at least grab some springs for your weight (with gear on) and try a rebuild. RaceTech makes reasonable priced valves and springs.
thanks for the advice! for the forks the guy will give me everything,(spacers for the calipers,front fender,brake lines and the front axel that makes me to keep the front wheels from the 954),the forks can be mounted on the 954 triple clamps as well
Two things to remember either way you go. If you rebuild your current stock forks you will notice a difference in the way the bike handles. It will probably be a very noticeable change (sometimes for the better, sometimes just different). If you switch out to the K8 forks are going to require some special parts (though included) that are not going to be easy to find/replace if necessary. I know the wheel spacers have to be "custom" made, not sure on the brackets for the calipers. Not a huge issue... I've never had to replace my stock spacers, but it is nice to know that I can just order them IF I need to..
Either way.. the bike is going to handle very differently. I am not sure if the K8 had BPF's or not... but if they are balance free big piston forks... would probably be a nice upgrade.
the suzuki gsxr 1000 k8 forks it's an upside down radial forks (that's the reason why im swapping) ,the front wheel will be from the 954,the spacers i need them between the bottom of the forks and the calipers because the 954 has 330mm disks,the radial calipers the guy will send them with the forks
You will have to make sure the wheel spacers between the forks and wheels are correct too. If it is too tight your forks will bind up. Too loose and your wheel can travel back and forth between the forks on the axle.
Hi RRDemon, quick question please. From what starting point were you doing these adjustments? From all the way hard? Thanks.
Yes, the starting point is fully in (turn right) or full hard.
once that i took all the data (static sag-rider sag and unload sag) how can i have the results?
+Mauro 954rr I tend to keep a notebook with all of my maintenance in it. Nothing fancy, just a composition book with the date, mileage, and what I did. I have the last few pages of the book reserved for suspension adjustments and just flip back to it if I want to make a change.
how do i know that my sag must be 30mm for example? sorry probably i didn't wrote good the question
+Mauro 954rr recommended static and rider sag should bee in the manual.
ho posseduto la 954! In effetti la forcella è poco sostenuta, alla fine la mia regolazione erano: precarico e compressione tutto chiuso e estensione sfrenata di 3 giri sempre da tutto chiuso! Ho provato a 3 giri e mezzo l'estensione, ma ti davi la piastra di sterzo sui denti appena mollavi i freni! In questo modo la moto era sostenuta nelle staccate e molto reattiva, non soffriva neanche le buche, merito del ritorno un pò sfrenato! Per il mono avevo un sag ride corretto con il precarico alla settima tacca, compressione 1 giro da tutto chiuso e estensione a 3 giri!
My 954rr rides like a hardtail Harley on the rear any inputs?
954rr suspension maintance