I'm jealous of that load tester i love it i want one. It can tell you how much balls your module has, sort of speaking but they are so expensive.They are invaluable for the workbench. When I'm browsing through ALI Express your never sure witch modules are worth the money but watching your videos makes it easier to choose.Great stuff man, keep testing those modules so to keep people from wasting their money.
In my personal experience most of the products we are buying are built with substandard components, they are made to the product work at a fraction of there capabilities, why you may ask just to make money I bought a buck converter for about 2$ I used it for a short while and it broke within a day, definitely I was using it at it's very max I decided to replace the main ic LM 2596s which costed me 2.50 $ more experience than the entire unit, but handled abuse very well and didn't heat up as quickly, usually it's one component that falls, you may want to consider that anyone reading this comment.
I've had three of these. First one I was not able to adjust output current or voltage that was stuck was at 119V DC. I used it as a 48V ebike Regen module well above it's rated power for about a year until the Mosfets blew. The second one I used to boost a constant 12.5 volts input at 20amps (250w),to 55v output at 4amps for battery charging. I used it with a cooling fan. I used a recording amp and volt meter, and about 30mins the input current jumped to 48amps but the fuses did not blow, bur rather melted, and then the output diodes shorted. The third unit I set up the same but limited input current at 12V to 10 amps. Charged an 800wh 48V LFE battery pack at about 2 amps, a couple of times. Then, on the third attempt I powered the converter up, made no pot changes. checked output at a stable 55v, connected the battery and instantly the fuses and main power regulator blew.
Indeed I have shown how they die. Please thumb up the video so people watch and learn about this module. Very few might get lucky to get a working module
hi, i bought 1 years ago ... used it for charging 60v scooter battery, 1.2kw pack with input of 31v 10amps to 60v 5 amp ... switched later to 55V 10A charging at 60V around 500w charge. Has worked flawlessly until i decided to power a UPS and tinkered with the high voltage protection. I dont think i blew mine, just the fuses . Need to figure out the setting or restrict input current to save the fuses.
your the best youtuber i ever seen. the best product review ever to reveal the truth.. i buy also this converter to get 60v and about 10ampere is enough for me for my project and i used computer power supply with 40 ampere as an input voltage because i thought that this converter can handle 60v output from a 12v input but the converter is died. i subscribe to your channel best regards from philippines.
Thank you for this video, I had been looking for this information since I have a broken one and the output MOSFET had been changed to a lower specification one.
Thanks for the testing. I've blown up a couple of these, their "1200 watt" rating is super inflated. I was trying to use them to power a 36v ebike with 12v battery, and it just didn't work..the ebike was like 500watt, it just blew up the input fuse like you showed until it just died. I was wondering how to fix them. If you buy from amazon you can return them, but I'd rather just fix them or even improve them as there was not another option that I could see.
The Chinese calcution in your case is 500w÷12v= 41 Ah. So thats double of what it can handle. My bike is 350w÷24v= 14Ah and yes it works. For me its the perfect way to use my 24v batterys on my 36v bike.
*You have some great information here and i really appreciate you sharing it . I have a question. How do we know what size boost converter do we need for our project. What determines if the converter is suitable. My input and output voltage falls within the range. What else is important to know if it works?*
very informative video! great job! keep up the good work!
Год назад+1
Thank you for providing us such a good information... About this boost converter, since it doesn't have short circuit protection I think its easy to get burned.
I have watched many of your videos. Great work. However I'd like to ask what is up with those efficiency numbers? 941W input 900W output. The efficiency is at around 95%, don't you agree?
Hi, just divided the output power to the input power. I might have typed it incorrectly. Can't edit the video now if there is erro in calculastions. Sorry. but the instrument read is for sure correct. Thanks
The weak side of these boosters is the big Mosfet, it is rated way too low voltage, I think max 85Volts and then you have output of like 80, take in mind inverse voltage is higher than this. so it does not break due to over current but to over voltage. I have one of these modules and it broke without load after just a few hours of use. So I fixed and improved mine by replacing the one big mosfet with a parallell pair of B31N20D instead and it have not broken again since that was done. another weak side is that the module cannot limit current below the input voltage, so it will basically try to lower the voltage down to VCC and if that is not enough to limit the current it can´t go lower than this meaning if you short the output below VCC there is no current limit at all and you also burn the module or fuses instead.
There also might be a problem with the smaller transistors not making proper contact with the heatsink or none at all thats why the transistor on the input was reaching 85C on the pins meaning the real temperature of it was probably at 100C iam going to buy one but il replace the silicone thermal pads with thermal paste and maybe add paper or cardboard above the smaller transistors for better contact with the heatsink for better thermal transfer
@@w4st3lander yes the thermal connection is not especially high on it. When I modified mine I actually put the new mosfets on a separate heat sink that have a temperature controlled fan on it that I also built. But as long as the switching mosfets no longer is on the stock heat sink that part have not gotten hot anymore for my part. I use my device in a home made Lab power supply. I have 3 rails built in the same unit and can go 1-20V 9amps. And 20-83volts up to 20amps (this module) and 40-380V 200ma. I can use all 3 outputs at the same time too if I want with a combined power of about 500 watts
Greeting! Very educational videos!!! Well done Professor! Which converter would you recommend to make a power supply with DC input and output~ 4-6V and ~8-12A adjustable ! That it can work without interruption and overheating for a long time!
I put the 1800W version on an ebike and it failed after 5 minutes, halfway up the hill. Output voltage is now the same as input. :-( 16V to 55V to a 48V 18A peak ebike controller.
When I use it with a car battery for its supply, really getting hot with 80w fan load. But if i use a power supply 9amp 16v, it won't get hot. Can you help me?
Thought of buying this converter to power my class D home made car amplifier rated at 1000 watt rms. But with a car battery at 13 to 14 volts while the engine is on. It required at least 80 ampere input to power a 1000watt rms output. After seeing this video it's not possible to power up my amplifier. with 30 ampere max input. Since my car is a small hatchback with a 35ah battery and 90 ampere alternator my dreams just shattered like a mirror with this module. Have to use a normal dc to dc converter not a boost converter
Your tests are super good and there is nothing to put a finger on, the only thing that is incredibly irritating is the clip that comes incessantly with subscribers and the little finger that points up, f... how irritating it is to see and hear on in almost every video today, if I want to subscribe to the channel I probably know what to do myself, I don't need that clip over and over again...
I am sorry and I don't like it too. Unfortunately youTube algorithm treats subscription as stamp of approval to my channel . If I have the best video about something in the world and someone else has a worst video in the same topic but has more subscriber, youTube will suggest and bring up that channels' video and viewer never find my videos. So more suggest translations to more view and it translates to more income. just checked overall subscribers ration to view of my channel and it is 5.5%. So only 5.5% of my viewers are my subscribers which is very low and when I create another video, the 94.5% of viewers will never know. I have spent over $15k equipment + 100s of hours of my time and for the month of October 2022 my income shows to be $98.23. So I am bugging and have to bug for subscription. This is my last try and I will give it 6 more months and will gave up if it does not bring an income that worth keep working. Only pranks and junk is appreciated on RUclips.
I got one of these to charge a 58 volt camp pack with a car alternator/ battery. I am worried I will hook it up and fry it. What should I do with each pot before hooking up? Then How do I sneak up on settings?
I have a CCTV NVR that uses a 52V adapter for power. The problem is, we face constant power outages, resulting in a loss of security coverage. I want to use this 1500W boost converter to convert 12V battery backup from the UPS to 52V because I have found that this is the solution. Now I have two questions: 1. Will it work? 2. How do I change the current? (Can you please make a video or guide me through) (NB: I am somewhat of a noob when it comes to electronics. What I know today is learned through such videos.)
Hi,, 1-This device provides boosted voltage at the output with the settings you set. It does not care what you conenct. What matter is how much maximum power your CCTV device need. I've show how much this can supply. 2-if I have not shown it, then it can't be done. Why you want to limit the currfent. The device you are using is manufactured device. it is like I want to limit the current to my fridge. Leave it as is.
Another Question my friend , I have 2 48v lithium battery banks my 3.2v batteries I saw preformed better at 3.5v but 3.5x15.= Dc 52.5v but the issues are my battery combiner is only 48v and will blow at 52.5v but also my inverter is an EASUN 5 KVA pure sine wave inverter charger 48v PWN
The efficiency numbers are incorrect. Overlays and calculations don't match measurements from the Load 9:29 : 616.6W Input - Load shows 600W (97% Efficiency) Yet Overlay shows 480W Output and 77.8% Efficiency 10:11 : 942.7W Input - Load shows 900W (95.4% Efficiency) Yet Overlay shows 720W Output and 76.4% Efficiency Some are wrong, others are OK. I didn't check them all, but it needs correction. Also - it is rated Maximum 25A, so when you exceed 25A input current, of course it fails. Eg: 37:45
They all match. I did the test and mentioned them. So reading on device is correct. After I stop the test what you see under the text is just decorative clip so the screen doesn’t look empty.
@@WattHour - FFS - I even gave you the timestamps and the figures. 9:19 - Load shows 600W, your voice says 600W 9:29 - The Efficiency overlay shows 480W output 9:59 - Load shows 900W, your voice says 900W 10:11 - The efficiency overlay shows 720W output Don't argue with me... WATCH YOUR OWN VIDEO.
pwm signals can't be "boosted" with a DC module. You need an amplifier to first increase the PWM amplitude and then a current regulator circuit to limit the current to your requirements
Hi can these step ups ruin the lithium cells or decrease the life of the battery pack or is all this false? I know that by increasing the voltage the battery discharges earlier this seems obvious but I don't know if it decreases the total life of the battery you know lithium batteries have about 1000 cycles which should last 2/3 years but with the step up I don't know if it will die to earlier ? thanks vrey much
hey thank u for all the information, iam running it with an ebike, battery 36v 7,5 a to 44-50v, it is a bit tricky to set the current, but it is getting better....finally the solution is a bigger battery, a second same size in parallel, to have more amps to boost,
Hi. I am trying to solve a problem with chargers, and I am looking into a situation where I need to use relays, and in order to reduce current through relays, I am considering a flow with two 1200W boost converters in parallel, instead of a one 1800W converter. Can you please tell me, which config is more efficient, one 1800W boost converter at 300W or two 1200W boost converters at 150W each in parallel?
Hi, I am not sure how would you use relays to reduce current. in terms of effeciency, if you are need 300W, then why not use this 400W boost converter ruclips.net/video/xSI9k5BK-jU/видео.html
@@WattHour I am planning to use two boost converters in parallel, to move extra energy from solar-charged 12v battery to 48v battery. The setup will work every day, so I want to have CONSIDERABLE redundancy both in terms of power and reliability (I am from Ukraine and I think we might have some issues with electricity supply again next winter). That is why I have chosen such a margin in power redundancy and dual converter setup. As for relays - I plan to add a charge controller, that would connect the boost converters to 12v battery only between it's 90% and 100% state of charge, and 150w at 12v is 12.5A, and when having 300W that would be 25A, so I am planning using two boost converters + 2 relays in parallel, in order not to stress the relay with 25A of connected DC(!) current, but split in half for 2 relays. I agree about it all sounding like an overkill, but I would be glad to hear a better option. Thank you!
Hi, this module is just a boost converter. Please watch the BMS full video ruclips.net/video/QNENyu97w2A/видео.html as I have explained it fully including the schematic. Under that video post any question related to THE MODULE if I have not explained it in the video.
I did it in the previouse video of similair mode here ruclips.net/video/AGGkljZIk8k/видео.html so hard to setup and measure and it seems no one cared so I did not do it in this video.
Dear please suggest me module that charge my 12v 3s lithium battery pack 15A(18650 battery used with BMS) I want to charge my battery with solar power (input is 18,22v current 5,7a)
hi, buy a dc dc step down converter...the ones that are in the 0-34v range 300W one as it will end up charging at around 150W output which is one hour to 80 percent charge of your battery pack ... my calculations are off the cuff!
You say it's max 20A input and you regularly put it at 30A Can't really blame the product then. But it obviously prefer over 30v input and better over 48v
Your review is too long :( I want to use it to connect it to solar panels with max 900W input and feed it to MPPT which can accept 600W. Will it work for me?
LOL. I did 12V input, 18V, 24V, 36V and yet someone said why didn't you test 15V. and yet you say it is too long. so we can't satisfy everyone. The reason for this reveiw is to show all comong input and output voltage so people get idea as how much the input and output current and power is . So you posted question and seems you did not even watch first 5 minuets. I have explained the specs.
@@WattHour When scrolling through the video, I didn't see a test with varying volts (only static input V). That's why I asked if it can control the output power? And do it quickly. Because I have some dc-dc converters for 200W and I regularly see it run quite a long time. I would hate to burn out my MPPT controller.
I have attached this shit to the 800w wind turbine and it BREAKS,... BREAKS the wind turbine from start even all three blue trimmers are openn fully. this is not module u wan to use with wind turbine
Hi, it has chapters. On the mobile device or on desktop, on the player you see chapters, click and select to jump. or in the description you will see chapters you can click which looks like this Use player chapters or click on time to jump to different chapters of this video 00:00 Start 01:25 Introduction 04:14 Opening the module 07:14 Input 60V 500W test 08:48 Input 60V 600W test 09:33 Input 60V 900W test 10:16 Input 60V 1000W test 1kW 11:10 Input 50V 640W test 11:48 Input 50V 900W test 11:20 Input 50V 950W test 13:09 Input 36V 600W test 13:58 Input 36V 650W test 14:35 Input 24V 300W test 17:45 The module died 20:48 Input output voltage tests 22:27 Input 9V output 12V 25:00 Input 12V output 15V 26:54 Input 12V output 24V 28:25 Input 12V output 36V 30:10 Input 12V output 50V 30:56 Input 12V output 60V 32:12 Input 12V output 80V 35:22 Input 15V output 24V died 36:36 Input 15V output 24V 2nd module
@@WattHour I see you have chapters, however I like to start from the beginning and follow your testing through to the end. If you do that there are lots of breaks and it sounds disjointed. It needs to flow smoothly from one test to the next with a summary at the end like: Nice unit and has high efficiency provided you do not exceed 25 amps at the input. Exceeding 30 amps can cause catastrophic results. The comments were meant to be constructive. I enjoy your test videos and encourage you to do more.
@@peterdkay - Most of this guy's "reviews" are disjointed and very hard to follow. He doesn't accept feedback or suggestions from viewers. It could be solved with a summary at the end.
I'm jealous of that load tester i love it i want one. It can tell you how much balls your module has, sort of speaking but they are so expensive.They are invaluable for the workbench. When I'm browsing through ALI Express your never sure witch modules are worth the money but watching your videos makes it easier to choose.Great stuff man, keep testing those modules so to keep people from wasting their money.
Five batteries to one is a big difference in weight ratio. Great stuff!
Very Nice work, I personally appreciate your work. it is very detailed and straight to the point.
In my personal experience most of the products we are buying are built with substandard components, they are made to the product work at a fraction of there capabilities, why you may ask just to make money I bought a buck converter for about 2$ I used it for a short while and it broke within a day, definitely I was using it at it's very max I decided to replace the main ic LM 2596s which costed me 2.50 $ more experience than the entire unit, but handled abuse very well and didn't heat up as quickly, usually it's one component that falls, you may want to consider that anyone reading this comment.
Totally agree with you. I have the same experience.
I've had three of these. First one I was not able to adjust output current or voltage that was stuck was at 119V DC. I used it as a 48V ebike Regen module well above it's rated power for about a year until the Mosfets blew.
The second one I used to boost a constant 12.5 volts input at 20amps (250w),to 55v output at 4amps for battery charging. I used it with a cooling fan. I used a recording amp and volt meter, and about 30mins the input current jumped to 48amps but the fuses did not blow, bur rather melted, and then the output diodes shorted.
The third unit I set up the same but limited input current at 12V to 10 amps. Charged an 800wh 48V LFE battery pack at about 2 amps, a couple of times. Then, on the third attempt I powered the converter up, made no pot changes. checked output at a stable 55v, connected the battery and instantly the fuses and main power regulator blew.
Indeed I have shown how they die. Please thumb up the video so people watch and learn about this module. Very few might get lucky to get a working module
@@WattHour I did, and will post a review comment on eBay and Amazon with reference to your video.
Thanks. stay safe.
hi, i bought 1 years ago ... used it for charging 60v scooter battery, 1.2kw pack with input of 31v 10amps to 60v 5 amp ... switched later to 55V 10A charging at 60V around 500w charge. Has worked flawlessly until i decided to power a UPS and tinkered with the high voltage protection. I dont think i blew mine, just the fuses . Need to figure out the setting or restrict input current to save the fuses.
@@awesomed007 Thanks, I suspect it's not so much the design as the quality of the components and construction.
your the best youtuber i ever seen. the best product review ever to reveal the truth.. i buy also this converter to get 60v and about 10ampere is enough for me for my project and i used computer power supply with 40 ampere as an input voltage because i thought that this converter can handle 60v output from a 12v input but the converter is died. i subscribe to your channel best regards from philippines.
Thanks for subbing.
Thank you for this video, I had been looking for this information since I have a broken one and the output MOSFET had been changed to a lower specification one.
Thanks for the testing. I've blown up a couple of these, their "1200 watt" rating is super inflated. I was trying to use them to power a 36v ebike with 12v battery, and it just didn't work..the ebike was like 500watt, it just blew up the input fuse like you showed until it just died. I was wondering how to fix them. If you buy from amazon you can return them, but I'd rather just fix them or even improve them as there was not another option that I could see.
The Chinese calcution in your case is 500w÷12v= 41 Ah. So thats double of what it can handle. My bike is 350w÷24v= 14Ah and yes it works.
For me its the perfect way to use my 24v batterys on my 36v bike.
Wow complete test.. I'm enjoying to watch it
Thank you! Cheers!
*You have some great information here and i really appreciate you sharing it . I have a question. How do we know what size boost converter do we need for our project. What determines if the converter is suitable. My input and output voltage falls within the range. What else is important to know if it works?*
very informative video! great job! keep up the good work!
Thank you for providing us such a good information...
About this boost converter, since it doesn't have short circuit protection I think its easy to get burned.
I have watched many of your videos. Great work.
However I'd like to ask what is up with those efficiency numbers?
941W input 900W output.
The efficiency is at around 95%, don't you agree?
Hi, just divided the output power to the input power. I might have typed it incorrectly. Can't edit the video now if there is erro in calculastions. Sorry. but the instrument read is for sure correct. Thanks
The weak side of these boosters is the big Mosfet, it is rated way too low voltage, I think max 85Volts and then you have output of like 80, take in mind inverse voltage is higher than this. so it does not break due to over current but to over voltage. I have one of these modules and it broke without load after just a few hours of use. So I fixed and improved mine by replacing the one big mosfet with a parallell pair of B31N20D instead and it have not broken again since that was done. another weak side is that the module cannot limit current below the input voltage, so it will basically try to lower the voltage down to VCC and if that is not enough to limit the current it can´t go lower than this meaning if you short the output below VCC there is no current limit at all and you also burn the module or fuses instead.
There also might be a problem with the smaller transistors not making proper contact with the heatsink or none at all thats why the transistor on the input was reaching 85C on the pins meaning the real temperature of it was probably at 100C iam going to buy one but il replace the silicone thermal pads with thermal paste and maybe add paper or cardboard above the smaller transistors for better contact with the heatsink for better thermal transfer
@@w4st3lander yes the thermal connection is not especially high on it. When I modified mine I actually put the new mosfets on a separate heat sink that have a temperature controlled fan on it that I also built.
But as long as the switching mosfets no longer is on the stock heat sink that part have not gotten hot anymore for my part.
I use my device in a home made Lab power supply. I have 3 rails built in the same unit and can go 1-20V 9amps. And 20-83volts up to 20amps (this module) and 40-380V 200ma. I can use all 3 outputs at the same time too if I want with a combined power of about 500 watts
Greeting! Very educational videos!!! Well done Professor! Which converter would you recommend to make a power supply with DC input and output~ 4-6V and ~8-12A adjustable ! That it can work without interruption and overheating for a long time!
I like all of your videos. You said you connected voltage sensing and then I saw something yellow. Where is that from?
Can i use this as a buck convertor
My power supply is 54v and i want to run device which is rated max 24v
Can i use this module for that
this is a boost not buck, google buck converter
I had this fail converting 12v to 80v on 3 hbs86h boards driving 34SSM1460-EC1000 steppers.
It lasted about 45 seconds.
Amazing work sir
I put the 1800W version on an ebike and it failed after 5 minutes, halfway up the hill. Output voltage is now the same as input. :-(
16V to 55V to a 48V 18A peak ebike controller.
When I use it with a car battery for its supply, really getting hot with 80w fan load. But if i use a power supply 9amp 16v, it won't get hot. Can you help me?
Is there a way to boost its voltage to atleast 120v?
Thought of buying this converter to power my class D home made car amplifier rated at 1000 watt rms. But with a car battery at 13 to 14 volts while the engine is on. It required at least 80 ampere input to power a 1000watt rms output. After seeing this video it's not possible to power up my amplifier. with 30 ampere max input. Since my car is a small hatchback with a 35ah battery and 90 ampere alternator my dreams just shattered like a mirror with this module. Have to use a normal dc to dc converter not a boost converter
dc to dc? its working same...
using super cap for suport battery...
on buildup amplifier for car its same...just difrent output...
I HAVE A VERY INTERESTING QUESTION.
Is possibile connect in series two boost and have 160V output?
no. you can't.
Thanks for showing, liked it
спасибо за такой обширный тест
38:32 fuse is not always to protect module. In this case its propably to protect battery or powersupply
So nice understanding i get and right explaining
Your tests are super good and there is nothing to put a finger on, the only thing that is incredibly irritating is the clip that comes incessantly with subscribers and the little finger that points up, f... how irritating it is to see and hear on in almost every video today, if I want to subscribe to the channel I probably know what to do myself, I don't need that clip over and over again...
I am sorry and I don't like it too. Unfortunately youTube algorithm treats subscription as stamp of approval to my channel . If I have the best video about something in the world and someone else has a worst video in the same topic but has more subscriber, youTube will suggest and bring up that channels' video and viewer never find my videos. So more suggest translations to more view and it translates to more income. just checked overall subscribers ration to view of my channel and it is 5.5%. So only 5.5% of my viewers are my subscribers which is very low and when I create another video, the 94.5% of viewers will never know. I have spent over $15k equipment + 100s of hours of my time and for the month of October 2022 my income shows to be $98.23. So I am bugging and have to bug for subscription. This is my last try and I will give it 6 more months and will gave up if it does not bring an income that worth keep working. Only pranks and junk is appreciated on RUclips.
@@WattHour you have me on your list now
I got one of these to charge a 58 volt camp pack with a car alternator/ battery. I am worried I will hook it up and fry it. What should I do with each pot before hooking up? Then How do I sneak up on settings?
I have a CCTV NVR that uses a 52V adapter for power. The problem is, we face constant power outages, resulting in a loss of security coverage. I want to use this 1500W boost converter to convert 12V battery backup from the UPS to 52V because I have found that this is the solution. Now I have two questions:
1. Will it work?
2. How do I change the current? (Can you please make a video or guide me through)
(NB: I am somewhat of a noob when it comes to electronics. What I know today is learned through such videos.)
Hi,,
1-This device provides boosted voltage at the output with the settings you set. It does not care what you conenct. What matter is how much maximum power your CCTV device need. I've show how much this can supply.
2-if I have not shown it, then it can't be done. Why you want to limit the currfent. The device you are using is manufactured device. it is like I want to limit the current to my fridge. Leave it as is.
@@WattHour thank you so much
Is that only good to charge a 12v battery like mppt charger?
it does not have MPPT feature. the output can never be lower then the input with this module.
Another Question my friend , I have 2 48v lithium battery banks my 3.2v batteries I saw preformed better at 3.5v but 3.5x15.= Dc 52.5v but the issues are my battery combiner is only 48v and will blow at 52.5v but also my inverter is an EASUN 5 KVA pure sine wave inverter charger 48v PWN
Thank you for review
The efficiency numbers are incorrect. Overlays and calculations don't match measurements from the Load
9:29 : 616.6W Input - Load shows 600W (97% Efficiency)
Yet Overlay shows 480W Output and 77.8% Efficiency
10:11 : 942.7W Input - Load shows 900W (95.4% Efficiency)
Yet Overlay shows 720W Output and 76.4% Efficiency
Some are wrong, others are OK. I didn't check them all, but it needs correction.
Also - it is rated Maximum 25A, so when you exceed 25A input current, of course it fails. Eg: 37:45
They all match. I did the test and mentioned them. So reading on device is correct. After I stop the test what you see under the text is just decorative clip so the screen doesn’t look empty.
Loo at 15-20 seconds before the text is shown.
@@WattHour - FFS - I even gave you the timestamps and the figures.
9:19 - Load shows 600W, your voice says 600W
9:29 - The Efficiency overlay shows 480W output
9:59 - Load shows 900W, your voice says 900W
10:11 - The efficiency overlay shows 720W output
Don't argue with me... WATCH YOUR OWN VIDEO.
@@WattHour some of the efficiency calculations are incorrect, @johncoops6897 is right. 899W/943W is ~95.3%, and not 76.4%
Hello, Can I use it as Step Down and Boost in the same time? IF Vin = 10 - 60V can I have Vout = 48V? thx
the output for this is always hgigher than input. youneed Back-Boost Converter which will work like that.
nope ... get a dc dc step down converter
that shunt seems abit small to me quality motor controllers of the same current rating usually have 2 of them that are abit thicker
I need to boost 2-5V PWM signal to 40-60V and limit the current to 10-400uA. Any suggestions please?
pwm signals can't be "boosted" with a DC module. You need an amplifier to first increase the PWM amplitude and then a current regulator circuit to limit the current to your requirements
Hi can these step ups ruin the lithium cells or decrease the life of the battery pack or is all this false? I know that by increasing the voltage the battery discharges earlier this seems obvious but I don't know if it decreases the total life of the battery you know lithium batteries have about 1000 cycles which should last 2/3 years but with the step up I don't know if it will die to earlier ? thanks vrey much
yes it will decrease the life of the battery because Lithium batteries need very precise 20mV to 50mV accuracy. this is not that accurate.
hey thank u for all the information,
iam running it with an ebike, battery 36v 7,5 a to 44-50v, it is a bit tricky to set the current, but it is getting better....finally the solution is a bigger battery, a second same size in parallel, to have more amps to boost,
Perfect test thanks a lot🙏🙏🙏
Hi. I am trying to solve a problem with chargers, and I am looking into a situation where I need to use relays, and in order to reduce current through relays, I am considering a flow with two 1200W boost converters in parallel, instead of a one 1800W converter. Can you please tell me, which config is more efficient, one 1800W boost converter at 300W or two 1200W boost converters at 150W each in parallel?
Hi, I am not sure how would you use relays to reduce current. in terms of effeciency, if you are need 300W, then why not use this 400W boost converter ruclips.net/video/xSI9k5BK-jU/видео.html
@@WattHour I am planning to use two boost converters in parallel, to move extra energy from solar-charged 12v battery to 48v battery. The setup will work every day, so I want to have CONSIDERABLE redundancy both in terms of power and reliability (I am from Ukraine and I think we might have some issues with electricity supply again next winter). That is why I have chosen such a margin in power redundancy and dual converter setup.
As for relays - I plan to add a charge controller, that would connect the boost converters to 12v battery only between it's 90% and 100% state of charge, and 150w at 12v is 12.5A, and when having 300W that would be 25A, so I am planning using two boost converters + 2 relays in parallel, in order not to stress the relay with 25A of connected DC(!) current, but split in half for 2 relays.
I agree about it all sounding like an overkill, but I would be glad to hear a better option. Thank you!
Had one 1800w died on me, when stepping 17.5v to 25.2v, gone in a lot of smoke, was wondering why fuses didnt popped, now makes Sense.
that's what happend to the device under test when I did it.
Could you make its PCB design so we can order from your sponsorer?
you can't make this cheapter than what is sold. it would cost you more. so don't waste y our time. just buy the module.
@@WattHour okay sir.
@@WattHour I have one but not able to increase it's amps
Hello I have some question about BMS Can you help me to do my college project Thx. for your help.
Hi, this module is just a boost converter. Please watch the BMS full video ruclips.net/video/QNENyu97w2A/видео.html as I have explained it fully including the schematic. Under that video post any question related to THE MODULE if I have not explained it in the video.
I agree with you sir
Could i use this on a 12 volt battery anf and step up to 30 volts? I need to run rf amplifier it needs 30v 4 amps
4 ah at 30v = 12 ah at 10v so there should be no problem.
How about voltage ripples??
I did it in the previouse video of similair mode here ruclips.net/video/AGGkljZIk8k/видео.html so hard to setup and measure and it seems no one cared so I did not do it in this video.
Can I change the 2 15A fuse & put 1 30 A ?
Yes you can
What the value of that big inductor
no one knows
Hello, if we give 5 volts, can we get 12 volts?
Hello, this is exactly why I made the video. Please watch and get the answer as I have shown the minimum voltage and tested it.
What was the AC ripple on the output ?
see it in this similar item ruclips.net/video/AGGkljZIk8k/видео.html
Dear please suggest me module that charge my 12v 3s lithium battery pack 15A(18650 battery used with BMS) I want to charge my battery with solar power (input is 18,22v current 5,7a)
hi, buy a dc dc step down converter...the ones that are in the 0-34v range 300W one as it will end up charging at around 150W output which is one hour to 80 percent charge of your battery pack ... my calculations are off the cuff!
Sir I need one moudle for operate my 1.5 kva inverter I have 80 volt DC but my inverter operating required 150vdc ....... Are you have any device
search. I have tested the 1.5kW.
@@WattHour where sir can it will open solar inverter
I have the some problem
Price of ready circuit
On the amps Cloxkwise or counter ro increase the amps TIA
I have shown. please watch.
What happened to robojax?
it is there youTube.com/@robojax . this all for Energy related videos.
Can you do a diy video in making them cause they break down😊
You say it's max 20A input and you regularly put it at 30A
Can't really blame the product then.
But it obviously prefer over 30v input and better over 48v
Please review the rd6024 or dps 5020
thanks. I will see if they send it for free.
probably it dies every time couse you exceed the 20Amp MAX for Input and Output limit and while you was focused too much on the max output power W.
There is fuse. and it does without affecting the fuse.
Your review is too long :( I want to use it to connect it to solar panels with max 900W input and feed it to MPPT which can accept 600W. Will it work for me?
LOL. I did 12V input, 18V, 24V, 36V and yet someone said why didn't you test 15V. and yet you say it is too long. so we can't satisfy everyone. The reason for this reveiw is to show all comong input and output voltage so people get idea as how much the input and output current and power is . So you posted question and seems you did not even watch first 5 minuets. I have explained the specs.
@@WattHour When scrolling through the video, I didn't see a test with varying volts (only static input V). That's why I asked if it can control the output power? And do it quickly. Because I have some dc-dc converters for 200W and I regularly see it run quite a long time. I would hate to burn out my MPPT controller.
I see problem in 600w , 900w Eff caculate
60v input
review is including circuit diagram not components only
that's called design. the title of the video and image says "reviw ... tested". Thanks
como alterar para 127v
não dá
Bro how many died modules 😢
सोरल.मे। चल सकता हे..
I wang high power buck converter, not boost
why are you in this video then lol, just search accordingly
I have attached this shit to the 800w wind turbine and it BREAKS,... BREAKS the wind turbine from start even all three blue trimmers are openn fully. this is not module u wan to use with wind turbine
No shit🤣
You need an MPPT Wind regulator
POTS are defective, typical....
I just got one, from a 12v rail on a 20amp computer power supply
Can get 15v 6amp at best.
Crap product
😞 քʀօʍօֆʍ
This is a very disjointed review and very hard to follow.
I would appreciate a table of results and recommendations at the end.
Hi, it has chapters. On the mobile device or on desktop, on the player you see chapters, click and select to jump. or in the description you will see chapters you can click which looks like this
Use player chapters or click on time to jump to different chapters of this video
00:00 Start
01:25 Introduction
04:14 Opening the module
07:14 Input 60V 500W test
08:48 Input 60V 600W test
09:33 Input 60V 900W test
10:16 Input 60V 1000W test 1kW
11:10 Input 50V 640W test
11:48 Input 50V 900W test
11:20 Input 50V 950W test
13:09 Input 36V 600W test
13:58 Input 36V 650W test
14:35 Input 24V 300W test
17:45 The module died
20:48 Input output voltage tests
22:27 Input 9V output 12V
25:00 Input 12V output 15V
26:54 Input 12V output 24V
28:25 Input 12V output 36V
30:10 Input 12V output 50V
30:56 Input 12V output 60V
32:12 Input 12V output 80V
35:22 Input 15V output 24V died
36:36 Input 15V output 24V 2nd module
@@WattHour I see you have chapters, however I like to start from the beginning and follow your testing through to the end. If you do that there are lots of breaks and it sounds disjointed. It needs to flow smoothly from one test to the next with a summary at the end like:
Nice unit and has high efficiency provided you do not exceed 25 amps at the input. Exceeding 30 amps can cause catastrophic results.
The comments were meant to be constructive.
I enjoy your test videos and encourage you to do more.
@@peterdkay - Most of this guy's "reviews" are disjointed and very hard to follow. He doesn't accept feedback or suggestions from viewers. It could be solved with a summary at the end.
Why did you change channel names? I liked "Robojax" :)
I have not changed it. I just created new channel to focus on energy solar. Robojax is there youTube.com/@robojax thanks