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Hi sir, We can't adjust the output current by shorting out put terminals in boost converters. Because at minimum boost conversion the output voltages will be greater than or equal to input voltages. If we short output terminals it will cause heavy current to flow from it and it might burn. Then how to adjust output current? Just connect any load which is of maximum capacity and turn the cc potentiometer to minimum. Then power on and gradually increase output current.
I have used this in my bluetooth project to boost from 11.1v 3s Lithium pack to 16.5V for a 40W+40W bluetooth speaker.. it doesn't skip a beat.. what an absolutely amazing piece of engineering for dirt cheap!
Hi, the reason Constant-Current doesn't work with a short circuit at the output is because the boost converter only has an inductor and diode from input to output, this means that you are shorting the input power. CC only works if you have some type of controlled load like a dummy resistor or something like an electronic load. CC only functions to reduce the output voltage down to the input voltage value by turning off the boost MOSFET when the CC value is reached.
I get the same results - this unit will not lower the output voltage much below the input voltage, regardless of voltage or current settings if you heavily load or short the output it will supply the full current capability of the input source to the output.
Thank you a lot for this video! I did not know how to set the current limit, the product listing suggested the regulation worked the opposite way. The module does not really like short circuits as it outputs the max current, but the listing said that short circuit doesn't let the circuit to work so it's okay. I managed to lit up a 53V 12W LED (taken from a 230V lamp) with this module, with an input voltage of 12V, and the current limit works fine from very little currents (less than 100mA for sure).
Good video. I wondered if you set an output load at say 3A and a constant voltage at 20V, would it remain constant as you varied the input voltage? Just wondered how stable it was. Also, if you keep the input at 400W and try the voltage extremes (maintaining 400W), what are the current outputs at those output voltage extremes. A suggestion might be to write "Input" and "Output" on a piece of tape for the two displays to make it easier for someone who had just started watching the video. They will figure it out but some might give up if they find it too confusing. I plan to watch your other videos too. Keep going.
I did buy the module, but I've been tied up and haven't tested it yet. Calculating a boost module - For this one, make a spreadsheet with a few columns and put 400W in the first column. In the second column start at 50V and decrease by 2 on each line below. In the next column, divide the 400 by 50 to get 8A. Make that calculation on each line down to 8A. Now notice that all the amperages below 26.67V are higher than 15A. On those lines, delete the current and put in 15. Now recalculate the wattage for each of the voltages below 26.67V. Those are the input wattages the module can handle for your input voltage, and they will limit the output. You can expect to get 95% or better output boost for a few volts higher than the input and maybe only 80% to boost from a low input voltage to the maximum output. For instance, if the input is limited to 15A, 8V the input wattage is 120W. At 80% that is 96W. 96W / 50V = 1.92A. That probably would be the limiting amount of boost from 8V in and 50V out. Of course, there are a lot of input and output voltages, put it on a spreadsheet and you'll see it. I would expect the module will output 1.92A at any input voltage 8.5-50V and slightly higher output voltage up to 50V (worst case) and more output current as the input voltage is increased. Cheers, everyone. These videos are great.
An important caveat on boost converters is that CC will NOT work when output voltage must be lower that input (minus diode drop). It is a topology limit. SEPIC converters do not suffer from this, but SEPIC has other issues.
Hello, If you live in Canada or USA, I am giving away this DL24P 180W load and energy meter. Make sure to sign up for it ruclips.net/video/-UblSfUEY-0/видео.html
I was using mine to boost 10V to 12V and it got very hot with a 5A load on it so it was used to power a device that only took 2 amps. It still got warm and the converter eventually failed when the input voltage fell to 8V - it was used to boost a 3 cell LiFEPO4 battery to 12V.
Would like to know what the output signal looks like on a o-scope. Plan to input 12-14vdc from old Volkswagen automotive generator and want to step up to 18vdc super clean output. How well does this device do at cleaning up the input voltage and producing very clean DC output? Great video but would have liked to see an o-Scope monitoring the output during all of the testing.
You cannot set the output current shorting the output. This is a step up converter, so the output voltage needs to be higher than the input voltage in order to the converter to operate properly. When you short the output, the current is limited by the power supply at the input of the boost converter.
you may be right. then how do you set it? first connect a load with max current and allow the maximum current and then reduce it? People don't have loads.
Most power supply today have internal resistance so that when you short the output at constant current setting, the output voltage go down to zero but the output current will stabilized at the set point.
Can I leave the output amps at full to step up my solar panel. The max amps of my solar panel is 7.2 amps. I guess I just wind it all the way anticlockwise.
Thank you for you video. Please add 12V to 19V segment in you test because many people can use it as laptop charger from 12V battery that is charging using solar panel.
It's great to see your detailed review about this product. I would want to know if this will create the voltage spike at the output if we close the switch at the input. I plan to use this to create a PC powerbank and it's really sensitive to the voltage spike. Thank in advance!
So, if I have a 42v 4A charger, I could use as 50.4v 3A for 12s instead of 10s at 4A. And this not over heating on me? Like less voltage to boost than your 36v for example. Is that how it even works, more voltage boost, more heat? Or is it more ampage?
The current adjust isnt completely useless it just doesnt work as expected. I hooked a 19v 40w solar panel boosted to 40v and was only getting 7.5watts. I had the current turns on max. But when i lowered it the current it doubled! 16w. I found the maximum power point, but only a narrow range, going above or below got me 0 or 7 watts. So the current thing works but not like expected, simplying going up and down./ And given how small that range is for the maximum power point you'lll be sure to miss it when cranking it. It also doesnt help that going up or down it sometimes reverses direction for a moment before going the way you expected. Took some time to figure this thing out. I appreciate the video clarifying the direction, this really helped, also the clicking thing telling you you're at the end. That bit of info was helpful too. Maybe a more sensitive trim pot would make it better? This thing is like a manual MPPT charge controller if you have a solar panetl hooked up to it. Hook a micro controller up to it to do that automatically and all of a sudden this 5 dollar boost converter is now a $100 mppt solar charge controller.
Do you have any boost converter that keep output voltage constant till input reach output voltage, then turn duty cycle to 0% and output same voltage as the input voltage. 10-15 amps
The current limiting seems to never work on any of those cheap dc dc boost converter that has a cc potentiometer. Or has anyone found one that does current limiting on a step up converter?
@@nlreversespeech You need a boost/buck converter for reliable current limiting. This one only boosts so the input supply voltage needs to be lower than the lowest possible battery voltage to work.
Thanks for this video, it's expertly explained. Would you be able to recommend a linear DC to DC convertor. How can one identify whether it's a linear or switching DC to DC convertor. Thanks
Hello sir.,.. I wonder you could help me out a little bit.. I have the exact same module, It was working fine before an then the fuse also blown.. After i change the fuse, its always short circuit somwhere if i connect the input power supply. Any idea which component is damaged??
Greeting! Very educational videos!!! Well done Professor! Which converter would you recommend to make a power supply with DC input and output~ 4-6V and ~8-12A adjustable ! That it can work without interruption and overheating for a long time!
Would you recommend 2 of these 400w or one "1200W 80V DC" in case if I need 12->20v 10A. Also I got these for 1/4 of 1200w price. But now thinking which one will be better to use.
4:14 + output terminal and heat sink on one side are connected. The heat sink on the opposite side is connected to the ground side. When the maximum voltage is generated, high voltage is applied to both heat sinks. Risk of electric shock and fire. 4:14 +出力端子と片側の放熱板が接続されている。 反対側の放熱板はアース側に接続されている。 最高電圧が発生してる時は両方の放熱板に高電圧が掛かっている。 感電と火災の危険がある。
Can I use it with 19V and 3.42A output, to charger a laptop with a 12V battery that is connected to a solar panel? This would need 65W output, and the battery of the laptop is 14.8V nominal and already has a BMS inside.
Nice review! But with regards to the output ripple I wonder if I can use it to power my laptop computer at 19V or my LED tv at the same voltage (19V)? Pure sine wave inverter is very expensive now a day and it would cut the cost significantly (using solar power) if I can use this inverter to power my electronics gadget. Thanks in advance for the advice!
if the module's voltage and current is suitable for your laptop, you can use it. The ripple is will always be in all DC converters. it should be okay as it is in millivolts. Please subscribe so my channel grows and I will bring more videos on energy. Thank you.
@@TaylorSoloaiJR I bought similar inverter online and I used to power my sony LED TV (sony bravia) for 8 months now without issue. I try to power my laptop too adjusting it to 19V, but first I removed the charger and cut the adator and directly connected it to the converter. The only problem is that the monitor is directly powered online and I cannot use a dc setup. So far evrything is running fine for 8 months.
@@lemonadecitrus4764 thanks, that's good news. I was hesitant to buy it because I'm scared it might damage the laptop I'm planning to use it on. How many amps is your laptops charger rated at? The one I got is 19V 4.7A
Thanks for the video, great explanation! Sadly the module i bought worked when i set it to 42V but when i tried to set the current limit at some point it just died and started shorting out my power suply and outputting only between 1-2V, no matter that i set with the potis.... Any idea what might have happened?
the main mosft is short circuited. it is supposed to act as switch and turn ON/OFF to produce the output. Now it gets the input and connects it to GND. Very little voltage left so you can see it at output.
SS8550 I just searched, is a transistor www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/ss8550-d.pdf and so the SS8050 www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/ss8050-d.pdf Not sure what I said in the video, I wam making new video to fully test this this with connecting them in parallel as there have been many request.
@@WattHour You thought it was a diode. Not surprised because SMD marking are both hard to find sometimes and often ambiguous because the same codes are sometimes used as well. I think you got caught that way here.
Been wondering, is it not possible to get stronger potentiometers and take two booster and parallelled them at the ports and also run the traces from the potentiometers. and parallel the controls to, so one turns the volts on both bucks together?
cause I'm powering at 48v scooter at 16amps with it, keeps it cool. Solar setups are tricky on a scooter, got to keep it light so I charge a 24v battery with 3x 30W panels at 5.7amps. and then boost it to 48v and go. forgot to mention I meant in general if that would work. I made a parallel board for two 1800W boosters. I have a gerber I would love to share on my PCBway profile. @@WattHour
Well detailed presentation, hard work,, just want to know which module shall I can use to get constant output from my solar PWM controller to run LED tv, actually the battery volts variation from 13 to 11 on load so the input cannot be same, so in that case how can I get constant 12v output.. thanks
Wow you've explained all of the things I needed and want to know. Now I will buy this and use it as 30v boost converter because I only have 12v power supply. I will use it for ZVS that I want to run 30v 4a 120w, if let's say the input will be 12v 13a (144w), can it sustain 30 seconds operation? does a fan in heat sink help? I'm planning to put two fans for both heatsinks. Thank you so much for your effort and if you answer this as well.
I am glad you liked it. Overheating can be for sure resolved or reduced with fan or larger heat sink. As for the number, I don't remember what was the maximum current and power. As for the voltage, I just checked the chapters in the description and for sure it works with 12V because I have done so many test of 9V to get 50V or 60V. So it will work for your application.
@@WattHour yes you've tested it at even higher currents and higher voltage difference so I wish it'll work for me. Thank you so much very informative sir. You're great!
Great review, I am considering buying a CCTV NVR setup, it runs on 48v 3 amps which seems low, I want to run this on my solar setup, what would the amps be at my 12v battery?
Hi, the amount of currrent depentds both on the demand (load, or output) and then if the conveter can handle it AND input is suffecient, you will get the desired output. I did the tests so you come to conclusion.
I have answered to more than 2 or 3 people. Yes you can as long as you can set them at exact voltage and curent. But here is 800W and 1500W version and I have video on that.
I bought two and burn both of the fuses. I was hoping to use it on my lead acid battery, but amper didn't work. I rotated any direction it didn't seem to do anything. I had 12v input and 17v output ,amperage showed somewhere 4.5 -5.5amp output. Than I keep increasing the voltage trying to reach to 19 v and the fuse sparked and stoped working. I tried to add a new fuse ,but it keep blowing right the moment I attached. So both of them destroyed. I'm puzzled is it completely damaged, or I'm not doing something right?
Can you show how to attach a new fuse if it's already blown up. Because I tried to rotate the notch down before attaching a fuse, so when I attach the fuse and start it, hopefully it should work. But no result for me.
If running 11.8 amps what could be the max voltage I could get out of this? If I target 11.8 amps at 19.85 V I should get 234.2 W ? If that wont work can you recommend a heat reducing paste and Alternate heat sink for this 400W booster?
@WattHour i have a question, i want to use a boost converter to boost 12v from a 400w atx pc power supply 12V 32A@12v to 19,5V 10A 220w to power a laptop mainboard, what for a boost converter shuld i buy and how do i configure it that its not killing my laptop mainboard.
Hi, I don’t remembered the values but I can read the title and minimum input voltage is 8.5v . To see how much current this module can handle please see the tests in the video
Great video! can the boost converter handle 25A load if I connect a 50A external shunt? Also, what's you recommendation on improving the heat dissipation? Thank you.
Of course it cannot handle 25A load. The input can only be about 10A, so output load can only ever be lower than that. Shunt makes no difference, this is not an Ammeter. You cam improve cooling with a fan, however you need to arrange suitable external power supply. Also note there is no thermal paste and on this module the Triad and Diode were not properly touching the heatsink. So removing the burrs on screw hole will definitely help. This is a maximum 15A on input, even with the optimum cooling.
Thanx for the video my friend. I need to use the Buck for replacing a 58.8V 2A 117W charger is it possible with this module. Thank you and thanx for the review
Is it possible to get a schematic diagram of this 400Watt Booster Module?? As you have stated that the control chip is TL494 with a power Mosfet and a 2 diode rectifier plus associated components. A Schematic makes it possible to understand it;s operations. Thanx....
@@WattHour Thanx for your reply ... I have been tracing the PCB and trying to make the Schematic. Actually Y1 is NOT a diode as you said here, it is a NPN transistor most likely SS8050 together with another PNP (SS8550) as you have correctly said. This making of schematic is so difficult...hope I can find one already made online
I also concur in an err in the assignment of one of the two complementary PNP /NPN transistors as being a Zener diode. Since they . . . Q1 and Q2 . . . . are functioning as a full swing driver from the output of he 494 to the gate of the POWER MOSFET .
thanks a lot sir. btw my battery pack is 40ah 18650 mixed batteries brand (used laptop battery, use liitokala for capacity). i want to use this for laptop charging using 40ah battery pack, my laptop charger is 19v 4.74amp, can i use this? and do i need diode in the output of this boost converter? thanks a lot. i hope you will answer my questions. thank you
At 34 min. It is bettet to set a voltage like 12v and connect a bulb. Then turn down current until it start to dim. If it is a 21w bulb then it is set just below 2A when it starts to dim. Do not short output on these devices I set mine using a 12v h7 55w bulb as a load and a ampmeter. After that I set the voltage unliaded. I use it for charging 36v Scooter in car. 42v 1.5A. 3d-printed case and a 50mm fan
i got an error while testing this circuit, when i reduce the output voltage to equal or less than the input voltage then i turn counterclockwise the voltage doesn't increase anymore, now vol in= vol out , no matter how many turns i turn it, it still doesn't change , i think it's broken, how to fix it
No you can’t. The inductors and capacitors are determining the power. MOSFET is handling it. So you need to change so many thing and at the end you need control the PWM duty cycle. So you can’t.
did you read the comment? it take low voltage and boosts it meaning it increases the voltage. what kind of volatge you want to put at the input of this to get 12V? it canot give you lower volage. the output is always higher than the input.
I got one of these and blew the fuse as soon as I connected it to my 12V battery, no output load connected at all! Anyone knows why? Faulty board or did I do something wrong???
Good morning and thanks for video. I have a 16.8v lithium battery and would like to power up a device that needs 18v and 2 amp max. How can I achieve that with a boost converter?
Hi, I did not understand which part you did not get? I have shown how to connect a power at input and you get boosted voltage at output. Power soup can be battery or power supply. Just connect it and set output voltage.
hello sir I have a 12v 30A smps i want to make a adjustable power supply 2v-30v, i have two different options with two module 1: use 150w step up dc converter for reach 30v and then use 300w step-down dc converter for adjust voltage. 2: use both modules separately, it's mean 150w step-up dc converter for above 12v range and 300w step-down dc converter for below 12v range which on is better or maybe both are bad idea?
Hello, I don’t know if this 30A is battery or power supply. But in engine we consider efficiency the most. If that is the case so the math and see which has less waste. But I’d waste is not of your concern then used both at the same time.
Good day, that is exactly the reason I made the video and did test for most voltages. You can should watch and findout which input/output is closer to your values.
every voltage convert you see keeps the output constant as long as you keep the input within limit. So if it is a boost converter with output of 20-50V and input 10-40V. then you can have 10V at input and get 20V to 5V. now if you set the output at 35V, the input can be between 10V to about 35V. (I said about as the converter might need 1 or 2 voltges space between input and output). Because we talk about boost, the input can not be higher then output. now abouy the battery, LOL. it is as if we say truck is not a car. But most people assum a car is moving box with some mechanism to move it. it is just playing with words. Now if I play with words I could say "the smallest unit that can live on its own and that makes up all living organisms and the tissues of the body. "
Hi, Love your video, it help a lot for choising wich component suit my needs for my projects. I did have on of these modules and was using it for charging a lithium battery with 12V input and 54V output (battery side) and I set to 1A output (your test shwon that it can deliver 1.9A with 12V input and 60V output). But the module don't work any more, voltage droped down during charge and now i can't recover it... Have you an idea why ? Wich components could have blown ? I checked the capacitor and there are all good (input and output), fuse is ok. i'm thinking about the MOSFET but i don't know how i can test it. It worked perfectly for one complete charge and an other half charge (maybe 5h)... it had a 12V fan blowing on it all the time. Thanks a lot for help
Hi, thank you. Boost converters work with switch, inductor and capacitor. MOSFET is used as switch and most of the time only MOSFET get damaged and it either gets short circuited which outputs the input voltage or gets Open circuited and you will get zero volt at output. Rarely it is possible that other components like switching circuit IC with small components get damaged. I have burned so many boost converter and one reason for boost converter to burn is that we should ALWAYS have a load like resistor so the output voltage does not go to infinity. That could be the reason it kills the MOSFET because the voltage goes above the rated voltage of MOSFET. So I would suggest replacing the MOSFET hopefully it fixes the converter for you. Good luck.
Hello, I want to charge my laptop using a 12V, 90Ah battery. Will i will be able to do it by using this module? If so what is the current limit that i should apply? It not, which module should i use? You attention is highly appreciated. (I'm having 12 hour power outages so I'm in a desperate position)
Hello, I don't remember what was the maximum current. I believe I did enough tests so you could come to conclusion by watching all tests. 90Ah or 20Ah does not matter. it is the capacity which will last longer. 90Ah is like huge box of the AA battery and 20Ah is a box with AA battery, Now if you connect all AA battery in each box in parallel, the output for both will be 1.5V . But 90Ah will last longer.
I have explained all voltage and tested them and also show capabilities of handling maximum current. In setting current and how much you charge see the video as o don’t remember the minimum value of current . Good luck
Hello, If you live in Canada or USA, I am giving away this DL24P 180W load and energy meter. Make sure to sign up for it ruclips.net/video/-UblSfUEY-0/видео.html
You can't set the current limit on a boost converter like that. The current will flow directly from the input power supply through the output diode and into your load. There is nothing the boost converter can do to lower the voltage below your input voltage to limit the current across your multimeter.
Kind of true, if you're using it to charge a battery the input supply voltage needs to be lower than the lowest possible battery voltage. Only then it can properly limit current.
@@WattHour But when i set Vout to 30V while Vin is 20V it will let me, and then when Vin will rise to 40V, what will happen to Vout? Will it stay 30V? Or will it rise to 40V? or will the boost converter get damaged?
it is like you have $5 but you want to buy $10 ice-cream. you can't. you can't make your $5 to be $10 without you pay somehow. either work, or invest. Power (wattage) never increases. it only you can change voltage and current. So P(in)=P(out) but even this is ideal. We always have losses. so P(in)=P(out)-Losses. example if you have 100W, you can only get 85W to 90W at the output if you convert it. But you can make it 1000V but the current would be =0.1 because 0.1Ax1000V=100W or make it 1V at 100A.
Calculate input power and output power. Output power must be 15% less than input. I have show the efficiency for all tests so what is I see it is 15% losses it would show efficiency as 85% because 100-85=15%
Is that safe or good for audio amplifier like tas5613 that best required at 24v-32v. Source from old Computer power supply 12v. So maybe scheme like this Old PSU 12v18A - StepUp set 32v - Amplifier. The hard one is limiting Ampere output, because i dont have peripheral measurement like you 😔 Btw, nice review 👍👍👍 Thanks ❤️
Hello, Free $52 Meter and free shipping. If you live in Canada or USA, I am giving away this DL24P 180W load and energy meter. Make sure to sign up for it ruclips.net/video/-UblSfUEY-0/видео.html You got Until Jan 15 to sing up.
Hi sir,
We can't adjust the output current by shorting out put terminals in boost converters.
Because at minimum boost conversion the output voltages will be greater than or equal to input voltages. If we short output terminals it will cause heavy current to flow from it and it might burn.
Then how to adjust output current?
Just connect any load which is of maximum capacity and turn the cc potentiometer to minimum.
Then power on and gradually increase output current.
I have used this in my bluetooth project to boost from 11.1v 3s Lithium pack to 16.5V for a 40W+40W bluetooth speaker.. it doesn't skip a beat.. what an absolutely amazing piece of engineering for dirt cheap!
Hi, the reason Constant-Current doesn't work with a short circuit at the output is because the boost converter only has an inductor and diode from input to output, this means that you are shorting the input power.
CC only works if you have some type of controlled load like a dummy resistor or something like an electronic load.
CC only functions to reduce the output voltage down to the input voltage value by turning off the boost MOSFET when the CC value is reached.
You must be right. Then claiming CC is not true when current it infinity the voltage is not zero.
Can i use this as a step up for 6S battery pack to 38V for a amplifier board, thanks
I get the same results - this unit will not lower the output voltage much below the input voltage, regardless of voltage or current settings if you heavily load or short the output it will supply the full current capability of the input source to the output.
thanks for this video i just ordered one to charge my 54.6v ebike from a 12 solar setup
Thanks from SriLanka.
From this video only I learnt how to adjust the current. 👍
Thank you a lot for this video! I did not know how to set the current limit, the product listing suggested the regulation worked the opposite way. The module does not really like short circuits as it outputs the max current, but the listing said that short circuit doesn't let the circuit to work so it's okay. I managed to lit up a 53V 12W LED (taken from a 230V lamp) with this module, with an input voltage of 12V, and the current limit works fine from very little currents (less than 100mA for sure).
Fastinating! = D
A well-made presentation, full-mouth professionalism :) :).
Glad you liked it!
Thanks a lot I am from India , AliExpress is not going here so with help of your video I will make it my own
I use this same module to power LED Light bar a second one powers lights inside my boat. a very useful item to help stop damage to the battery.
Thanks, Ahmad. Just what I've been looking for.
Good video. I wondered if you set an output load at say 3A and a constant voltage at 20V, would it remain constant as you varied the input voltage? Just wondered how stable it was. Also, if you keep the input at 400W and try the voltage extremes (maintaining 400W), what are the current outputs at those output voltage extremes. A suggestion might be to write "Input" and "Output" on a piece of tape for the two displays to make it easier for someone who had just started watching the video. They will figure it out but some might give up if they find it too confusing. I plan to watch your other videos too. Keep going.
Hey, did you end up buying the module? Is the output voltage constant with different input voltages?
I did buy the module, but I've been tied up and haven't tested it yet. Calculating a boost module - For this one, make a spreadsheet with a few columns and put 400W in the first column. In the second column start at 50V and decrease by 2 on each line below. In the next column, divide the 400 by 50 to get 8A. Make that calculation on each line down to 8A. Now notice that all the amperages below 26.67V are higher than 15A. On those lines, delete the current and put in 15. Now recalculate the wattage for each of the voltages below 26.67V. Those are the input wattages the module can handle for your input voltage, and they will limit the output. You can expect to get 95% or better output boost for a few volts higher than the input and maybe only 80% to boost from a low input voltage to the maximum output. For instance, if the input is limited to 15A, 8V the input wattage is 120W. At 80% that is 96W. 96W / 50V = 1.92A. That probably would be the limiting amount of boost from 8V in and 50V out. Of course, there are a lot of input and output voltages, put it on a spreadsheet and you'll see it. I would expect the module will output 1.92A at any input voltage 8.5-50V and slightly higher output voltage up to 50V (worst case) and more output current as the input voltage is increased. Cheers, everyone. These videos are great.
An important caveat on boost converters is that CC will NOT work when output voltage must be lower that input (minus diode drop).
It is a topology limit. SEPIC converters do not suffer from this, but SEPIC has other issues.
Great to see all the information and abilities of this module...But 91 items in your Aliexpress cart...lol I thought I was bad with 20 or so....
Lol. 😄😂The wish list on AliExpress is so bad you can’t find it. So most of the time I see the cart to remember items.
Thank you for this great review
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Thanks now i understand that reducing the current is reducing the voltage too, ohms law.
I was using mine to boost 10V to 12V and it got very hot with a 5A load on it so it was used to power a device that only took 2 amps. It still got warm and the converter eventually failed when the input voltage fell to 8V - it was used to boost a 3 cell LiFEPO4 battery to 12V.
Would like to know what the output signal looks like on a o-scope. Plan to input 12-14vdc from old Volkswagen automotive generator and want to step up to 18vdc super clean output. How well does this device do at cleaning up the input voltage and producing very clean DC output? Great video but would have liked to see an o-Scope monitoring the output during all of the testing.
You cannot set the output current shorting the output. This is a step up converter, so the output voltage needs to be higher than the input voltage in order to the converter to operate properly. When you short the output, the current is limited by the power supply at the input of the boost converter.
you may be right. then how do you set it? first connect a load with max current and allow the maximum current and then reduce it? People don't have loads.
@@WattHour you need to connect a load and then adjust your current. You did it with your electronic load in resistance mode during the video..
Most power supply today have internal resistance so that when you short the output at constant current setting, the output voltage go down to zero but the output current will stabilized at the set point.
I love this review. This is the metod of value a product.👏
Thank you so much for the detailed test . 😀😀
A very very nice detailed explanation practical video ... Thanks so much for putting up so much of your precious time for us ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Very very nice video good and easy to understand. I subbed and lije youre video keep up the good work👍
Thanks for the sub!
Can I leave the output amps at full to step up my solar panel. The max amps of my solar panel is 7.2 amps. I guess I just wind it all the way anticlockwise.
Thank you for you video. Please add 12V to 19V segment in you test because many people can use it as laptop charger from 12V battery that is charging using solar panel.
Hi, sure I will consider this in future videos.
Thanks sir , for your great job.
What regen fuse shot how to repear
Output ripple voltage would be nice to watch to see the power supply's filtering capacity
It's great to see your detailed review about this product. I would want to know if this will create the voltage spike at the output if we close the switch at the input. I plan to use this to create a PC powerbank and it's really sensitive to the voltage spike. Thank in advance!
Thank you very nicely detailed
You are welcome. Please subscribe. I appreciate it and helps my channel grow. Thank you
Thank you for the video.
How to repair when the fuse burnd out ?
I tried to change but still burnd out again (and again).
So, if I have a 42v 4A charger, I could use as 50.4v 3A for 12s instead of 10s at 4A. And this not over heating on me? Like less voltage to boost than your 36v for example. Is that how it even works, more voltage boost, more heat? Or is it more ampage?
The current adjust isnt completely useless it just doesnt work as expected. I hooked a 19v 40w solar panel boosted to 40v and was only getting 7.5watts. I had the current turns on max. But when i lowered it the current it doubled! 16w. I found the maximum power point, but only a narrow range, going above or below got me 0 or 7 watts. So the current thing works but not like expected, simplying going up and down./ And given how small that range is for the maximum power point you'lll be sure to miss it when cranking it. It also doesnt help that going up or down it sometimes reverses direction for a moment before going the way you expected. Took some time to figure this thing out. I appreciate the video clarifying the direction, this really helped, also the clicking thing telling you you're at the end. That bit of info was helpful too. Maybe a more sensitive trim pot would make it better? This thing is like a manual MPPT charge controller if you have a solar panetl hooked up to it. Hook a micro controller up to it to do that automatically and all of a sudden this 5 dollar boost converter is now a $100 mppt solar charge controller.
Do you have any boost converter that keep output voltage constant till input reach output voltage, then turn duty cycle to 0% and output same voltage as the input voltage.
10-15 amps
Great job 👏
Is there an explanation to the battery charging failure (29:49) and the inability to set current trim pot ?
bad design.
The current limiting seems to never work on any of those cheap dc dc boost converter that has a cc potentiometer. Or has anyone found one that does current limiting on a step up converter?
@@nlreversespeech You need a boost/buck converter for reliable current limiting. This one only boosts so the input supply voltage needs to be lower than the lowest possible battery voltage to work.
what if the input voltage drops as what draining battery does... is the output voltage is the same or it will also drop?
That is the whole point to keep the output steady even the input changes . So it keeps output fixed and I have show it when checking input and output
Thanks for this video, it's expertly explained. Would you be able to recommend a linear DC to DC convertor. How can one identify whether it's a linear or switching DC to DC convertor. Thanks
Hello sir.,..
I wonder you could help me out a little bit..
I have the exact same module, It was working fine before an then the fuse also blown..
After i change the fuse, its always short circuit somwhere if i connect the input power supply.
Any idea which component is damaged??
Greeting! Very educational videos!!! Well done Professor! Which converter would you recommend to make a power supply with DC input and output~ 4-6V and ~8-12A adjustable ! That it can work without interruption and overheating for a long time!
I think the enhanced cooling advice/specification does not mean additional or bigger heat sink. Simply they mean you would need to add a FAN…
Would you recommend 2 of these 400w or one "1200W 80V DC" in case if I need 12->20v 10A. Also I got these for 1/4 of 1200w price. But now thinking which one will be better to use.
4:14 + output terminal and heat sink on one side are connected.
The heat sink on the opposite side is connected to the ground side.
When the maximum voltage is generated, high voltage is applied to both heat sinks.
Risk of electric shock and fire.
4:14 +出力端子と片側の放熱板が接続されている。
反対側の放熱板はアース側に接続されている。
最高電圧が発生してる時は両方の放熱板に高電圧が掛かっている。
感電と火災の危険がある。
So amper increasing autumaticly when the input is 9v - output is 12v ? No need to increse from the apm potintimere ?
the current (or your word ampere) is set only ONCE regardless of the voltge.
If i put 2 series mosfet will it increse Ampre??
You can’t modify it but try it.
@@WattHour thanks 😀
Can I use it with 19V and 3.42A output, to charger a laptop with a 12V battery that is connected to a solar panel?
This would need 65W output, and the battery of the laptop is 14.8V nominal and already has a BMS inside.
Nice review! But with regards to the output ripple I wonder if I can use it to power my laptop computer at 19V or my LED tv at the same voltage (19V)? Pure sine wave inverter is very expensive now a day and it would cut the cost significantly (using solar power) if I can use this inverter to power my electronics gadget. Thanks in advance for the advice!
if the module's voltage and current is suitable for your laptop, you can use it. The ripple is will always be in all DC converters. it should be okay as it is in millivolts. Please subscribe so my channel grows and I will bring more videos on energy. Thank you.
@@WattHour thank you Sir. I already subscribed to your channel and I will also ask my friends to subscribe too...
Thinking of doing the same thing glad you brought this up.
@@TaylorSoloaiJR I bought similar inverter online and I used to power my sony LED TV (sony bravia) for 8 months now without issue. I try to power my laptop too adjusting it to 19V, but first I removed the charger and cut the adator and directly connected it to the converter. The only problem is that the monitor is directly powered online and I cannot use a dc setup. So far evrything is running fine for 8 months.
@@lemonadecitrus4764 thanks, that's good news. I was hesitant to buy it because I'm scared it might damage the laptop I'm planning to use it on.
How many amps is your laptops charger rated at? The one I got is 19V 4.7A
y1 and y2 labeled Q2 and Q3 should these be transistors?
Thanks for the video, great explanation! Sadly the module i bought worked when i set it to 42V but when i tried to set the current limit at some point it just died and started shorting out my power suply and outputting only between 1-2V, no matter that i set with the potis.... Any idea what might have happened?
the main mosft is short circuited. it is supposed to act as switch and turn ON/OFF to produce the output. Now it gets the input and connects it to GND. Very little voltage left so you can see it at output.
@@WattHour do i need a new one or can i somehow fix it?
Exactly the same happened to two that I have. Cheap Chinese junk, I am afraid.
Y1 is NOT a diode, it is SS8050 transistor (as opposed to SS8550), Y1 & Y2 form a TOTEM POLE mosfet driver. ...sorry :)
SS8550 I just searched, is a transistor www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/ss8550-d.pdf and so the SS8050 www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/ss8050-d.pdf Not sure what I said in the video, I wam making new video to fully test this this with connecting them in parallel as there have been many request.
@@WattHour You thought it was a diode. Not surprised because SMD marking are both hard to find sometimes and often ambiguous because the same codes are sometimes used as well. I think you got caught that way here.
Been wondering, is it not possible to get stronger potentiometers and take two booster and parallelled them at the ports and also run the traces from the potentiometers. and parallel the controls to, so one turns the volts on both bucks together?
why bother to put them in parallel. get 1200W ruclips.net/video/vss__pN5Ua0/видео.html
cause I'm powering at 48v scooter at 16amps with it, keeps it cool. Solar setups are tricky on a scooter, got to keep it light so I charge a 24v battery with 3x 30W panels at 5.7amps. and then boost it to 48v and go. forgot to mention I meant in general if that would work. I made a parallel board for two 1800W boosters. I have a gerber I would love to share on my PCBway profile. @@WattHour
Well detailed presentation, hard work,, just want to know which module shall I can use to get constant output from my solar PWM controller to run LED tv, actually the battery volts variation from 13 to 11 on load so the input cannot be same, so in that case how can I get constant 12v output.. thanks
You should use Buck Boost converter
thank u. very useful info
is it convenient to use it as cheap solar mppt charge controller to charge cells? if yes what are your recommendations?
Wow you've explained all of the things I needed and want to know. Now I will buy this and use it as 30v boost converter because I only have 12v power supply. I will use it for ZVS that I want to run 30v 4a 120w, if let's say the input will be 12v 13a (144w), can it sustain 30 seconds operation? does a fan in heat sink help? I'm planning to put two fans for both heatsinks. Thank you so much for your effort and if you answer this as well.
I am glad you liked it. Overheating can be for sure resolved or reduced with fan or larger heat sink. As for the number, I don't remember what was the maximum current and power. As for the voltage, I just checked the chapters in the description and for sure it works with 12V because I have done so many test of 9V to get 50V or 60V. So it will work for your application.
@@WattHour yes you've tested it at even higher currents and higher voltage difference so I wish it'll work for me. Thank you so much very informative sir. You're great!
Great review, I am considering buying a CCTV NVR setup, it runs on 48v 3 amps which seems low, I want to run this on my solar setup, what would the amps be at my 12v battery?
Hi, the amount of currrent depentds both on the demand (load, or output) and then if the conveter can handle it AND input is suffecient, you will get the desired output. I did the tests so you come to conclusion.
Did those mofets I sent you years ago fix your 1200W boost converter?????
Can this converter be wired in parallel? I tried but got really uneven current pull going to the two converters.
I have answered to more than 2 or 3 people. Yes you can as long as you can set them at exact voltage and curent. But here is 800W and 1500W version and I have video on that.
I bought two and burn both of the fuses. I was hoping to use it on my lead acid battery, but amper didn't work. I rotated any direction it didn't seem to do anything. I had 12v input and 17v output ,amperage showed somewhere 4.5 -5.5amp output. Than I keep increasing the voltage trying to reach to 19 v and the fuse sparked and stoped working. I tried to add a new fuse ,but it keep blowing right the moment I attached. So both of them destroyed. I'm puzzled is it completely damaged, or I'm not doing something right?
Can you show how to attach a new fuse if it's already blown up. Because I tried to rotate the notch down before attaching a fuse, so when I attach the fuse and start it, hopefully it should work. But no result for me.
Best video sir 💪💪💪🔝📶
The best thank you for me is to subscribe to my channel. Your subscription is stamp of rating to my channel and others can find me too. Thanks
Can i use this for battery pack on my asus router that is 19v? I have a 3s battery pack but it.s only @ 12.6v. Kindly let me know please thanks
If running 11.8 amps what could be the max voltage I could get out of this?
If I target 11.8 amps at 19.85 V I should get 234.2 W ?
If that wont work can you recommend a heat reducing paste and Alternate heat sink for this 400W booster?
@WattHour
i have a question, i want to use a boost converter to boost 12v from a 400w atx pc power supply 12V 32A@12v to 19,5V 10A 220w to power a laptop mainboard, what for a boost converter shuld i buy and how do i configure it that its not killing my laptop mainboard.
Hi, I don’t remembered the values but I can read the title and minimum input voltage is 8.5v . To see how much current this module can handle please see the tests in the video
Thanks a lot ❤
Great video! can the boost converter handle 25A load if I connect a 50A external shunt? Also, what's you recommendation on improving the heat dissipation? Thank you.
Of course it cannot handle 25A load. The input can only be about 10A, so output load can only ever be lower than that.
Shunt makes no difference, this is not an Ammeter.
You cam improve cooling with a fan, however you need to arrange suitable external power supply.
Also note there is no thermal paste and on this module the Triad and Diode were not properly touching the heatsink. So removing the burrs on screw hole will definitely help.
This is a maximum 15A on input, even with the optimum cooling.
Tnx for the video presentation i have the same buck converter new subs here 👍
Awesome, thank you!
Thanx for the video my friend. I need to use the Buck for replacing a 58.8V 2A 117W charger is it possible with this module. Thank you and thanx for the review
Is it possible to get a schematic diagram of this 400Watt Booster Module?? As you have stated that the control chip is TL494 with a power Mosfet and a 2 diode rectifier plus associated components. A Schematic makes it possible to understand it;s operations. Thanx....
I have no seen it.
@@WattHour Thanx for your reply ... I have been tracing the PCB and trying to make the Schematic. Actually Y1 is NOT a diode as you said here, it is a NPN transistor most likely SS8050 together with another PNP (SS8550) as you have correctly said. This making of schematic is so difficult...hope I can find one already made online
I also concur in an err in the assignment of one of the two complementary PNP /NPN transistors as being a Zener diode. Since they . . . Q1 and Q2 . . . . are functioning as a full swing driver from the output of he 494 to the gate of the POWER MOSFET .
@@edwardwhatley1603 you sure? I figured that pair would be part of the regulated power supply for the TL494. Just guessing.
I want to ask how many amperes I can get at
12v input and 24v output = ?
19v input and 24v output = ?
this video is exactly the answser. I did all common voltages, so you find your voltage closer to the voltage I tested and comed to conclusion.
thanks a lot sir. btw my battery pack is 40ah 18650 mixed batteries brand (used laptop battery, use liitokala for capacity). i want to use this for laptop charging using 40ah battery pack, my laptop charger is 19v 4.74amp, can i use this? and do i need diode in the output of this boost converter? thanks a lot. i hope you will answer my questions. thank you
Hello, this can not be used for charging because you can't set the current correctly. Please check my channel for other boost converters.
At 34 min. It is bettet to set a voltage like 12v and connect a bulb. Then turn down current until it start to dim.
If it is a 21w bulb then it is set just below 2A when it starts to dim.
Do not short output on these devices
I set mine using a 12v h7 55w bulb as a load and a ampmeter. After that I set the voltage unliaded.
I use it for charging 36v Scooter in car. 42v 1.5A. 3d-printed case and a 50mm fan
i got an error while testing this circuit, when i reduce the output voltage to equal or less than the input voltage then i turn counterclockwise the voltage doesn't increase anymore, now vol in= vol out , no matter how many turns i turn it, it still doesn't change , i think it's broken, how to fix it
when input and output is the same, the power mosfet is dead.
@@WattHour I checked the mofet is still alive, now what components should I check next
Hello. I saw that Output actually gets a bit lower than the Input V, do you think that if I drive it equal or lower than Input it will be damaged?
hello, now it will not be damaged. it simply will reduce the output lower and unstable so you won't be able to use it.
Why current control is not working please let me know even I am facing the same problem
Same problem here
how to make this more powerful?? can just change mosfet and diode?
No you can’t. The inductors and capacitors are determining the power. MOSFET is handling it. So you need to change so many thing and at the end you need control the PWM duty cycle. So you can’t.
@@WattHourtq...
What you think about input 12v 150 ampir?!
Is this good to use in 12volts 140watts mini rice cooker?
did you read the comment? it take low voltage and boosts it meaning it increases the voltage. what kind of volatge you want to put at the input of this to get 12V? it canot give you lower volage. the output is always higher than the input.
I got one of these and blew the fuse as soon as I connected it to my 12V battery, no output load connected at all! Anyone knows why? Faulty board or did I do something wrong???
Good morning and thanks for video. I have a 16.8v lithium battery and would like to power up a device that needs 18v and 2 amp max. How can I achieve that with a boost converter?
Hi, I did not understand which part you did not get? I have shown how to connect a power at input and you get boosted voltage at output. Power soup can be battery or power supply. Just connect it and set output voltage.
Can we use these boosters in series??for more voltage..??how??
NO you can't.
hello sir I have a 12v 30A smps i want to make a adjustable power supply 2v-30v, i have two different options with two module
1: use 150w step up dc converter for reach 30v and then use 300w step-down dc converter for adjust voltage.
2: use both modules separately, it's mean 150w step-up dc converter for above 12v range and 300w step-down dc converter for below 12v range
which on is better or maybe both are bad idea?
Hello, I don’t know if this 30A is battery or power supply. But in engine we consider efficiency the most. If that is the case so the math and see which has less waste. But I’d waste is not of your concern then used both at the same time.
good day,
what is the maximum output of amps for 12v to 48v?
Good day, that is exactly the reason I made the video and did test for most voltages. You can should watch and findout which input/output is closer to your values.
Am I the only one who wanted to see the effect on the set output voltage of varying the input voltage? (Also they are cells not batteries).
every voltage convert you see keeps the output constant as long as you keep the input within limit. So if it is a boost converter with output of 20-50V and input 10-40V. then you can have 10V at input and get 20V to 5V. now if you set the output at 35V, the input can be between 10V to about 35V. (I said about as the converter might need 1 or 2 voltges space between input and output). Because we talk about boost, the input can not be higher then output.
now abouy the battery, LOL. it is as if we say truck is not a car. But most people assum a car is moving box with some mechanism to move it. it is just playing with words. Now if I play with words I could say "the smallest unit that can live on its own and that makes up all living organisms and the tissues of the body. "
Do did u max out set current for test?
No. but doing next test in a few days. Will also connect them in parallel and test.
Hi, Love your video, it help a lot for choising wich component suit my needs for my projects.
I did have on of these modules and was using it for charging a lithium battery with 12V input and 54V output (battery side) and I set to 1A output (your test shwon that it can deliver 1.9A with 12V input and 60V output).
But the module don't work any more, voltage droped down during charge and now i can't recover it... Have you an idea why ? Wich components could have blown ? I checked the capacitor and there are all good (input and output), fuse is ok. i'm thinking about the MOSFET but i don't know how i can test it.
It worked perfectly for one complete charge and an other half charge (maybe 5h)... it had a 12V fan blowing on it all the time.
Thanks a lot for help
Hi, thank you. Boost converters work with switch, inductor and capacitor. MOSFET is used as switch and most of the time only MOSFET get damaged and it either gets short circuited which outputs the input voltage or gets Open circuited and you will get zero volt at output. Rarely it is possible that other components like switching circuit IC with small components get damaged. I have burned so many boost converter and one reason for boost converter to burn is that we should ALWAYS have a load like resistor so the output voltage does not go to infinity. That could be the reason it kills the MOSFET because the voltage goes above the rated voltage of MOSFET. So I would suggest replacing the MOSFET hopefully it fixes the converter for you. Good luck.
Hello, I want to charge my laptop using a 12V, 90Ah battery. Will i will be able to do it by using this module? If so what is the current limit that i should apply? It not, which module should i use? You attention is highly appreciated. (I'm having 12 hour power outages so I'm in a desperate position)
Hello, I don't remember what was the maximum current. I believe I did enough tests so you could come to conclusion by watching all tests. 90Ah or 20Ah does not matter. it is the capacity which will last longer. 90Ah is like huge box of the AA battery and 20Ah is a box with AA battery, Now if you connect all AA battery in each box in parallel, the output for both will be 1.5V . But 90Ah will last longer.
hi , thank you for this video
but y1 its not zener
its s8050 transistor smd
can i use that step up converter to charge my 48 volts 12ah battery pack? the input voltage would be 12 volts 4 amp battery
I have explained all voltage and tested them and also show capabilities of handling maximum current. In setting current and how much you charge see the video as o don’t remember the minimum value of current . Good luck
Hello, If you live in Canada or USA, I am giving away this DL24P 180W load and energy meter. Make sure to sign up for it ruclips.net/video/-UblSfUEY-0/видео.html
Yes DC /DC 👍⚡🔋💡
You can't set the current limit on a boost converter like that. The current will flow directly from the input power supply through the output diode and into your load. There is nothing the boost converter can do to lower the voltage below your input voltage to limit the current across your multimeter.
Kind of true, if you're using it to charge a battery the input supply voltage needs to be lower than the lowest possible battery voltage. Only then it can properly limit current.
Is that okay to use in ebike to run? 😅
Input 12volt out put 28volt power 250 watt is it safe sir
So whats gonna happen if V out is set eg to 30V, and the input voltage will be 40V? Is it gonna step the 40V down to 30V?
you can't set the output lower than input. When you turn it to lower it, it will not go.
@@WattHour But when i set Vout to 30V while Vin is 20V it will let me, and then when Vin will rise to 40V, what will happen to Vout? Will it stay 30V? Or will it rise to 40V? or will the boost converter get damaged?
i have a solar panel of 25v 100watts i want to boost it using this buck can i use it to increase my watts ?
it is like you have $5 but you want to buy $10 ice-cream. you can't. you can't make your $5 to be $10 without you pay somehow. either work, or invest. Power (wattage) never increases. it only you can change voltage and current. So P(in)=P(out) but even this is ideal. We always have losses. so P(in)=P(out)-Losses. example if you have 100W, you can only get 85W to 90W at the output if you convert it. But you can make it 1000V but the current would be =0.1 because 0.1Ax1000V=100W or make it 1V at 100A.
@@WattHour thanks
That's not a constant current supply that's a current limited supply, right?
this is constant current. it reduces the output voltage if limit reached. read here on Google Gemini AL g.co/gemini/share/928151eb8fa7
What if input 20V 3.25A can i get 24V 8 ampere?
Calculate input power and output power. Output power must be 15% less than input. I have show the efficiency for all tests so what is I see it is 15% losses it would show efficiency as 85% because 100-85=15%
good video
Is that safe or good for audio amplifier like tas5613 that best required at 24v-32v. Source from old Computer power supply 12v. So maybe scheme like this Old PSU 12v18A - StepUp set 32v - Amplifier. The hard one is limiting Ampere output, because i dont have peripheral measurement like you 😔
Btw, nice review 👍👍👍
Thanks ❤️
Whats value of Potentiometers?
Hi robojax :) did you separate your channel ?
Yes I did.
Hello .. can you make a video about - similar - the step-down (Buck) converter of 300W or 400W, and thanks.
Hello, sure I will. here is 1000W buck converter ruclips.net/video/Ya2MIEn6cSw/видео.html