Review of DC 1500W Boost Converter 10V-60V to 12V-90V module 1.5kW Tested
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- This 1500W DC Boost Converter is fully explained and tested. Tested with all standard voltages of 3.3V, 5V, 12V, 15V, 24V, 26V, 50V, 60V and 90V with all possible input/output voltages and currents. Power of 1.5kW tested. Input output voltage shown. Thermal images used to show the hottest spots. Ripple voltage of the output is also measured.
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Jump to different chapters of this video:
00:00 Start
02:03 Introduction to the 1500W module
06:04 Hardware Explained
10:37 Components Explained
14:40 Setting current limit
15:21 Input/Output Minimum/Maximum
16:36 Test preparation
17:16 Input 60V Tests
31:49 Input 50V Tests
35:50 Input 36V Tests
37:44 Input 24V Tests
39:10 Input 18V Tests
39:53 Input 12V Test
40:37 Charging Battery
43:19 Under-Voltage Protection
47:23 Ripple Voltage measurement
48:19 Conclusion Remarks
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Related Videos:
1000W Buck Converter WZ5020L Review:
1200W Boost converter review: [coming soon]
Wuzhi WZ5005 Buck converter: • Review of WUZHI WZ5005...
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Hello, Free $52 Meter and free shipping. If you live in Canada or USA, I am giving away this DL24P 180W load and energy meter. Make sure to sign up for it ruclips.net/video/-UblSfUEY-0/видео.html You got Until Jan 15 to sing up.
You should do a video on repairing those 1200w units and at the same time upgrading them to 1500w.
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A great review! Nice that you go through the componentry to give an idea of the design. Great that you give efficiency at many setpoints, and as with most of these converters is gets lower the greater the difference between input and output V. The thermal views are rather good too. keep up the good work! You pretty much answered every question I could have asked. Awesome, thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
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Wow....that is impressive! I cannot test mine to that high wattage so i am grateful to see you pushing it. Thank you very much for your review!
You are welcome!
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Thank you for such an exhaustive testing and examination of this board I have just purchased 4 of these, believing now I have made a good choice Great Job!
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Great video!
I ordered four of these yesterday. My plan is to put them in parallel to drive a 3kw 72v motor from a 48v battery. I didn't really trust the specs, that's why I bought four, but after watching your review I think it's safe to use only three. The fourth one won't be wasted because I was still looking for a charger for my DIY battery and I guess I accidentally bought one :)
Thanks. I hope you get the exact item. You may end up getting a different item because more than one sources producing this. Good luck and stay safe.
did you have any luck driving them in parallel?
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@@anwin85alon The project went nowhere and the parts are still unused, so unfortunately I can't help you...
You saved me a lot of time. Excellent informative and detailed video, keep up the good work. Subscribed.
Thanks for the sub!
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i ordered the 1200 watt version, it hasnt arrived, but i wanted to start watching videos on these things anyways to learn how to use them. after seeing your first video i decided to get the 1500 watt version as it had higher amps and voltage capacity. i am still waiting on it too, and thought i would look for videos on this unit and here i am with your video again. i appreciate your videos
The 1200 module failed in higher power or even when I was changing the voltage 4 of the died. perhaps it is the quality of certain manufacturer or it is the module in regardless who produces it. I am posting 800W tests soon . make sure to subscribe so you are notified.
@@WattHour i just got my 1500 watt version in today. it has three 20 amp fuses and only one set of input and output terminals. now to find a screw driver that is that small. both of my step up devices did not come with any kind of instructions...good times. i will use your videos as my manual, thank you
@@WattHour and about 20 minutes after my last comment i smoked my load tester some how. polarity was correct. i am new to all this and i am trying to learn, i dont understand my 300 watt power supply and i was not happy with how it was bouncing around between different voltage and current willy nilly so i ditched it and connected a 120ah deep cycle battery to the 1500 watt up converter and then my load tester to the 1500 watt step up converter and it puffed smoke and started to act like it was going to catch fire. it looked like a little bright flame lol. good times
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Thanks for the video which gives a very in-depth explanation of how the DC/DC converter works. I also have the same DC/DC converter and tried to use it to charge my 16s 100AH LiFePO4 battery pack with a 30V/10A PSU. My thought was that with the 30V/10A PSU, the input from the PSU could be around 255W (i.e. 30V x 10A x around85%efficieny). By setting the maximum output voltage of the DC/DC converter to 56V to charge the battery pack, I should be able to get around 255W/56V = 4.5A during the constant current charging stage (while the battery voltage gradually increases from 52 to 56V). However, what I got was that the PSU voltage stayed at around 11V with the maximum current of 10A. The voltage from the PSU did not change even I had turned it to maximum. With that power from the PSU (i.e. around 11v x 10A x 0.85 = 93.5W), the output of the DC/DC converter was only around 52V / 1.8A even I turned both the output voltage and output current to maximum and the battery pack was demanding much more power/current. It seems that the DC/DC converter cannot “suck” power from the input side with any combination of input voltage/current. When it got limited input current at 10A from the PSU, it is not able to “request” for more voltage from the PSU to increase the input power but just stayed at 11V. Do you know what is causing this limitation? Do you have any advice on how I can make the DC/DC converter to “suck” 30V/10A of power from the PSU to charge the battery at 52-56v? Thanks.
I found the cause of the problem. When the CC mode of the PSU is triggered, the voltage from the PSU will then be unpredictable. So, the correct procedure is: 1) set the desired voltage at the PSU, 2) set the PSU current to maximum, 3) set the desired output voltage at the booster, 4) set the output current at the booster to the minimum, 5) connect the load/battery to the booster and then 6) gradually include the output current at the booster with the target of not triggering the CC of the PSU. Thanks again for the video. It let me have more understanding of the booster and more confidence in using it.
you are very welcome and goog luck with your project. Than you for the information.
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I got this updated version. Good to see it was improved.
I doubted it initially. but it is works. Setting current limit is not good though.
Excellent job! I got smart (this time) and watched your video just before I would normally toy around and blow it up. I also have the 1500 Watts. Thanks again!
Fantastic!
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Great demo, TNX 4 the upload !
Hello, If you live in Canada or USA, I am giving away this DL24P 180W load and energy meter. Make sure to sign up for it ruclips.net/video/-UblSfUEY-0/видео.html
Thank you. All the needed information.
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A very helpful video - thanks. You clearly answered all the questions i had about using the module.
Glad it was helpful!
তোমার এই বুস্টার সার্কিট আমি কিনতে চাই কোথায় এবং কিভাবে পাওয়া যাবে আমাকে ইমিডিয়েট লীগ জানাও
@@WattHourতোমার লোকেশন ঠিকানা বলো
This is such awesome and useful content. Thanks so much for this!
Subscribed.
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I need something like this to step up the output of a huge 12v power supply so i can both keep my RVs batteries at 13.8 volts and drive the HVAC at the same time, which draws up to 50 amps.
Thanks for this review!
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Great testing methods, many thanks
Can these be run in parallel on the output for more amps? With or without a diode to prevent back current
thanks for the review
Our pleasure!
Thank you a lot! Very useful information.
Hello!
I want to make a battery for an electric scooter. I wanted to ask you if I connect a 33v-18A battery, but I need to have a 48v-12A output. Will I be able to get a stable 12A or will it be slightly less? And what is the approximate voltage drop for a 33V battery with a 12A load? Thank you. Sorry, I translated from Russian into English.
Thank you for this video...Use one of these to run my laptop, works well but there is no manual for setting this. Thank you !!
Great video and very helpful.
You just got a new subscriber.
Cheers brother
Awesome, thank you!
Please check out some of my videos and let me know if you have any ideas that may help me with any of my projects. I'd appreciate your input. Cheers
have you made any video of running 2 or more units in parallel . any thoughts?
I am wanting to use this between my wind turbine and a charge controller for my 48v system. My wind turbine starts producing at 12v and will go up to 60v My batteries wont start charging until I have 48v so I want to amplify the lower voltage to 48v with a max of 90v then run that into my charge controller and it will deal with raw fluctuations in volts/watts and charge the battery's with it. Do you think this might work?
Nice review. Could several be used with outputs in parallel? I'm boosting 45v 9a individual solar panels to charge 48v battery (56v charge with a bms). Maybe use a diode on each output. Your thoughts? Appreciate your complete videos.
Update. Tested with a 45v 9a oc solar panel. Boosted to 56v into a charge controller to charge 48v batteries. 4 boost converters in parallel. No I use 4 panels to charge vs 2 panels in series for solar converter input. More current going to charge.
Really appreciate your work.thank for video.🙏
My pleasure 😊
can you make me sure. can I set the low voltage protection to 31V? . Adjusts the potentiometer, but nothing happens. I don't want to burn anything.
y is there 4 input terminals??? i have a power supply that has a positive and a negative thats it can i just connect 2 wires for the input ??
You're videos are great, to the point and easy to follow. You would make a good teacher. With your investigations what is the highest wattage buck/boost CC CV converter that is short circuit protected at the output that you have found? (and do you have video for it)
Set the output voltage close to the battery voltage. The battery won't draw excessive current, so you can adjust the current limiting.
Also, during overcurrent protection, nothing was damaged.
This is a good module for charging a battery. Except the ripple may eventually degrade a lithium battery? Does it need a fuse between the output and the battery -- if the boost converter breaks, could it short circuit the battery or deplete it? I would definitely put some protection and a BMS on the lithium cells.
I am planning on using this or 1800w one to boost the volts out of the solar panels a little bit to stay in the middle of the mppt range of the inverter they are connected to. So that the reduce in the volts of the mppt wouldn't put a low cap on the capacity of power solars can produce. Let me know I am not thinking straight,
very awesome thorough study of the device,
thank you very much
Great presentation!!! can you elaborate a bit how to set the cc from outside (without the scope you are using). do you mean I have to put a physical load in series with ammeter to set it? thanks
The amount of current is requested by the load. So connect a load that requests preferred load . Yes you connect it in series with ammeter.
@WattHour The main MOSFET is a HY3912 W if you wanted to try to repair them.
Really like your DC- DC converter videos by the way, it's really useful to get the honest ratings vs the 'Chinese rating'.
Thanks for mentioning the MOSFET.
I put the 1800W version on an ebike and it failed after 5 minutes, halfway up the hill. Output voltage is now the same as input. :-(
16V to 55V, to a 48V 18A peak ebike controller.
since watching this video 11 months back now, i have been using these boost converters a lot.
i have 3 of these i run off 55v outputting power at 80v with an amp meter on the 55v input to converter side that runs fine at 10a to 15a continually so im only running them at about 600w to 800w as i did not want to try pushing them to there limits.
what is your thoughts on the 1200w versions of these converters?
i can buy 1200w versions for £15 each and the 1500w versions are more like £25 each
do you think the 1200w version is going to output 600w 55v to 80v continually without any issues like the 1500w ones i have are achieving
I have the 1200 w module and mine died after 2 days. Its suddenly shorted at the inputs, will send mine back.
hi i was just wondering if it is possible to control the voltage via the connecting pwm signal on the potentiometer of the voltage control
Hi, it might be possible. but it should have some challenges. it is is not just to feed PWM to adjust the voltage, but to monitor output voltage and adjust PWM accordingly and this PWM should be also function of (CC) input/output current so if the current increases it should reduce the voltage. Actually I wanted to modify it do that but I doubt there might be total of 100 people would watch or need it. you may try it. good luck
Would you recommend powering a laptop with this? It is a Lenovo my charging block is 300 watt / 15 amp / 20 volt DC. I do not want to use an inverter due to inefficiency.
Do you know if they should be able to be put in parallel on the output side (connected to the same input source)?
I have two, and every one individually (set to certain voltage and CC-Limit) with work fine (set to 150W@15V input). If two in parallel, the CC will not work. They should deliver 300W combined, but will go up to 1000W, and the melt the fuses of my source. Why? Even the seller states that they can be paralleled. What am I missing?
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Hello. Another question: Would be possible to get the specifications for the adjustment potentiometer? I'd like to remove the existing pots and replace them with pots I can mount on externall on a project box enclosure.
Hello, it is directly written on the pot. if written 104, it means put 10 and 0000 (4 zeros) so 100000Ω or 100kΩ. if you read 203 then 20 and 000 so 20,000Ω or 20kΩ.
@@WattHour Thanks for that information. How would I know if the pots are linear or nonlinear? I guess I could count the turns and measure the output. I'm looking to substitute with a panel mount.
Thanks a lot for this review it's very helpful! I'm using this for an automotive project. I assume the 12V input efficiency would be greater if only converting to say 24 - 32V as opposed to the max output voltage? For current limiting, would it suffice to simply place say a 20A fuse ahead of the converter?
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Hi, many thanks for your review! One question regarding the current limit. You say in your review to set it at maximum and then lower it the required value. I want charge a battery with it but adjust/limit the charging current. If I set the pot at 5A let say, and I connect the battery at the output, will it damage the converter? Will it be seen as a short circuit?
Hi,Yes. unfortunately this converter has this issue. You can’t charge battery with it. I believe I mentioned it in the video. You MUST test it in something else by setting the current limit. Then try it on battery or simply forget this module.
Sure you can. Set the output voltage close to the battery voltage. The battery won't draw excessive current, so you can adjust the current limiting.
Also, during overcurrent protection, nothing was damaged.
This is a good module for charging a battery. Except the ripple may eventually degrade a lithium battery? Does it need a fuse between the output and the battery -- if the boost converter breaks, could it short circuit the battery or deplete it? I would definitely put some protection and a BMS on the lithium cells.
I'm interested to know the max current out with 13v input and 60v out. Thank you very much for your video and very clear explanation. Great job!
Hi, it could not be demonstrated better than this . The most common voltages have been tested and you should find closest results for your need in this video.
Can we use it on 12v DC vehicle for 30 0 30 v MOSFETs
Very good, thanks a lot 🙏
You are welcome. Please subscribe. I appreciate it and helps my channel grow. Thank you
Since this module has cc and CV can we use this as boost solar charge controller? I do have grid tie inverter with 22-60v input and would like to boost may solar panel to charge my 48v battery. Will it be possible and will it be effective and how big would be the loss?
Hello, when I was doing the test, I said no one will have any questions. I have tested with all possible voltages. I have presented in each test with the efficiency like 80% when it is 80% then losses is 20% because 80+20=100. please watch to get answer. I don't remember what were the values.
What is the NCE80H15 MOSFET doing?
It seems to be in series with the negative input.
Is it part of the under voltage shut down?
I don’t know which one is that but if it is the power mosfet then it ia the main switch used in boost converter.
Is there a unit like this, that comes with a LCD screen and is reliable ?
Hi, does it safe to use this converter for 24/7 ?? My load is just 50-60 watt, I have input source 12v that should boosted to 19v. Thanks for your answer. I know that this converter is overkill for my system but I just want to achieve safety system.
Hi I believe. No one can answer this as they is matter of liability. You test it in a safe environment away from people and valuables and leave it on with load for several days under different temperature conditions like very hot room etc and see if it passes then use it.
good job, what you used as power supply to test the boost board?
Thank you WattHour for your great review, I have a 100watt Richman solar panel and a 24volt DIY lithium battery pack, can i use this to charge up my battery pack or go with a lower voltage solar panel, I got the 1200w version of this Boost Converter. Please let me know....Peace
I guess you should look at the voltage ratings of the solar panel and the minimum input voltage of the module, if they are in the acceptable range, you can go for it.
How specific is that current limit? If I want to charge a lithium battery with another lithium battery I find (with my boosters) the current will rise as my input current rises, and when my lithium battery I'm charging is low it pushes more amps and gradually reduces the amperage as the battery charges. But I need a constant 3 amps from the start of the charge to somewhere around the end, but it seems my boosters don't have a current limit but a current offset. So it would be awesome if you could test the current limits over a dynamic supply voltage and dynamic load.
Hi, I have shown setting the current and at the end of video I made conclusion. this is not precise in terms of setting current specially very low current of 3A. but I forgot the numbers. So you may refer to the video.
good video,liked and subscribed
It seems efficiency is more dependent on input these probably arent too good for 12v to 24v ? 90 percent ?
ive found when you have a low input voltage say 12 volt and want to boost it to 85 volt ,this is when you start stressing the converter and it really sucks in the amps on the input to make the 85 volt
Thanks for making this video, you earned a sub from me! Hope you get more subscribers😊
Que tal como le va? Consulta cuanta es la intensidad de entrada qué soporta este booster. La idea es ponerle una celda lifepo4 de 3.2v 200amp y elevar a la salida 60v 10amp se podrá hacer lo que digo? O no soporta tanto amperaje de entrada? Muchas gracias
To increase the current, do you turn the knob clockwise or counterclockwise?
I did demonstrate it. And don’t remember
Can you use them in parallel and have equal load balancing?
yes if you set all of them with exact voltage and current.
Can this be used to power a 48v inverter from a 12v battery?
Hello, I have done test for all standard voltages including 12V. Voltage is voltage and does not matter. Please watch
Hi. Do you think will be possible to connect two of this modules in series. Working from 12v converting to 24v. Meaning connecting the two modules to provide 48v ?
NOT possible.
Hi. Is it possible to push this unit as high as 92V output?
Hi, it seems possible but the power might be reduced. lease subscribe. I appreciate it and helps my channel grow. Thank you
@WattHour Do you know the main mosfet number or a good replacement?
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What do you think if I connect a wind turbine? 0-92 volt output, will it work?
out of curiosity I also bought it but the fan didn't turn on, is that normal but the volts work.
fan will turn it when the module gets hot enough. it seems your module is not getting hot to turn the fan on. this is normal.
How clean is the DC...?? Just wondering if this would be good for electron tube B+...very low current but noise sensitive...
That is ripples and I have measured it. Please watch the video use chapters to jump. To that section of the video
Hi not sure if this question has been asked. Can two of these be used together to get +_ dual rail power. Trying to power an audio amp in a car with 12vdc.
Hi, no it can’t.
Hi thanks for the reply. In my search I found a 350W DC12V To Dual 32V Boost Power Supply Board For HiFi Amplifier Car Amp sold on ebay. Maybe tou can do a review on this. I have no experience with devices so I dont know if they actually work as advertised. Thanks again for you time and effort. You present valuable info for amatures.
감사합니다
아니에요
I was thinking of using one of these to power my laptop from my lifepo4 battery bank. This would be efficient than using a 2000w AC inverter and big 200w power adapter.... but I'm not sure on the quality of the device, fail-safes like over voltage, output current ripple etc, is it worth using this for a $1500 laptop? I can't find a proper 200w laptop charger anywhere for 12v bank... any thoughts?
I know it's 3 years. There are nice HP supplies that are 200w for newer Thunderbolt 4 docks. They also have id pin. I get a lot of HP minis from work that only require 65w. However the reason they throw these minis out is because of faulty factory bricks that when they don't put out the recommended power rating the PC refused to power. All they get is error beep and light codes. I was told they are bad boards but this couldn't be further from the truth. Everyone I get have i5 8500 65w CPUs. Either by replacing the stock CPU with a 35w like the 8500T or simply upgrading the brick to 90w or 120w they all come back to life. Ive been recovering 2-3 a week at the low-low price of $30 for a new adapter. The other workers just look at me like I'm retard for grabbing them out the dumpster.
Sir , Can i ask a question about this circuit ?
we set the output voltage to 90v without load and when we connect a load , we saw that the output voltage is reducing to 30V even though we open the current limit all the way ?
why is that happened ? please help us
thanks..
When the voltage drops it means either the current limit is set in the module so set it to maximum as I have show it or your load need more than the maximum curd this module.
can i use 12v 180ah battery to input the circuit to get 60v 20ah output
Did you test it out I wanna try that let me know thanks
I'm going to make my own DIY boombox speaker. I'm going to use this to step up a 24-volt battery to 32 volts that my amplifier needs. however, I have one question. When I have adjusted the voltege to 32 volts, and plug it into my amp, will it blast 30 amps into it? I don't want to damage anything. What do I do? I'm very new to this, so sorry if it is a stupid question.
no question is stupid question. The amount of current is determined by your amplifier. the maximum current that I've shown. I am not sure if it was 20A of 30A. If your amplifier asks for more than amount that is booster can supply, then the CC or constant current feature will suppress the output and keeps it at maximum allowed value which this module can handle.
@@WattHour Ok, thank you. I understand! This earned a sub!
you will have the diagram of how to connect the DC meter to the boost converter? nice video
would you not be able to set the output A to the minimum and then go up from there measuring it with an Amp meter?
Yes they is th best approach
@@WattHour thank you for the reply!
my idea is to use one of these to charge my Ecoflow river pro in my car.
standard 12v socket it only allows 8A current which limits the input to just under 100w, this is sooooo slow. the unit is 720Wh so basically 7 hours to charge.
on a wall plug it charges with 660w and only takes 1,6h for a full charge, this is a bit over the top. but if it also is able to take 25V 12A solar input. so my idea is to (instead of solar) put a step up converter from the cars Alternator which puts out around 14v to 25v 12A (or whatever the max is that the unit allows) and then i will get around 250 to 300W which will make the unit charge in around 3 ish hours
thanks for making videos like this!
The video is very good. I would like to know how to control the output voltage, with an external source of 0 to 10V (dc), instead of the voltage control potentiometer. I would like to use an Arduino to do this voltage control, using a PWM to dc converter (0 to 10V).
Thanks
Francisco
Would you know how to set up the fan to auto run.
Connect it to a 5V power of your circuit if there is nothing make a 5V circuit from one of you power points
Can we fix a potentiometer instead the variable with the output voltage to use it as a dc motor speed controller + boost converter?
Ya you can if you use the same value potentiometer. But controlling motor by carrying the voltage is not a good practice as it might affect motor’s performance. PWM is the way to control the speed.
Like this ruclips.net/video/UzCmynbpAIk/видео.html module
Can i use this for car stereo to be used at home. My power supply is giving only11.95 volts dc and i want to boost it to get13.8 volts dc.
Yes you can. You should see I what was the minimum Inout village and in that minimum voltage what was the minimum output . I don’t remember the values
Creative video, thanks :)
Glad you liked it!
Im using this Booster for my Wind Generator to charge my battery. The Problem is, that i cant get much more than about ~10W through this booster.
I Set undervolt protection for 20V and output to 55V (for 48V Battery).
Do i need to adjust the Ampere too on this booster by default or is it Set to maximum already? Thats the only thing i might think off, that Block the full energyflow
Thanks in advanced
Hi, yes adjust the current as it could be limiting. I have done in the video two or three times so watch fully. This can deliver 1.5kW
Thank you for the informative video...
One question please, can is use it series to make voltage increase... Thank you waiting for your answer
yes and no. Yes if you have separate input sources. No because most of the time it is not possible.
Is this using all 10k pots?
can i use it as a step down? my battery is 40-36 volt and i need 30-32volt. so i mean can the output work less than the input
The output is AWLWAYS higher than the input. Check other videos. Please watch before postin questions.
Do you think can it be used to power a Milwaukee M18 FHIWF12-502X impact wrench from 12V car battery? Problem is Milwaukee does not provide any Amp or wattage info about this tool so hard to figure out the peak Amp for a 1356Nm nominal torque and for 1900Nm peak torque. Normal factory battery is 18V 5Ah ... thanks your comments on this...
you would have to power it up using another source, put it under load and measure the current using ammeter (current meter) . Otherwise you can blindly connected and see it this can handle it.
@@WattHour Thx I will try it to power it up from 12VDC car battery directly. I think I will loose some power (12VDC instead of 18VDC) but still strong enough the tool to serve my needs. So I do not need to buy anything extra ...
i am thinking of getting three of these units. i am going to use approx 52volts input on all three and connect all three of the outputs in parallel to feed an ebike controller that has a max consumption of 60amp at 85volts.
do you think i can wire the outputs in parallel to feed the controller? will the ripple also be ok on the controller? i can wire three 6s 20ah batteries but i only end up with 75volts, and i know my controller can handle 85 volts, so i thought i would reduce my battery weight by only using 2 packs in series to power the three step up devices to feed the controller the 85v at 60amps max. think i will be ok?
thanks for all your work, i have watched many of your videos several times. i like the presentation style on top of the knowledge.
Hello and welcome. Connecting parallel is tricky. you MUST set the voltage AND the maximum current at exact value to get better result. any difference in voltage and maximum current will cause loss of power. So yes. you can if you set them properly. for your second question, this module can output the maximum voltage and current as I demonstrated. but if you meant to get 85V and 60A, that is 5100W which is not possible. Good luck and stay safe.
Hello. your video is very interesting. I have two questions please. 1) I would like to know if it is possible to put two modules (1500 watts boost converter 10-60v to 12-90v) in parallel to obtain 3000 Watts for example. 2) If we put modules in parallel, will the intensity of the electric current increase or not? thank you very much.
Hello, if you set exact output voltage for both and set current to maximum, yes you should be able to get 3kw.
@@WattHour Ok Thank you very much.
Now can we run 10kw powerful e-loader motor with 6-7 model in parallel connect with exact volts?
@@alexmorrison3068 Please just read the specs on any aliexpress ad: they say, you may NOT connect 2 or more modules in parallel with their inputs and outputs AT THE SAME TIME ( i would copy-paste,but it is protected...); otherwise the current limit CAN fail,they say
they also say this: 1500 W (some 1800W) max, OR 20 Amps max,whichever comes first
your converter may vary
If the input voltage is variable does the output voltage change
This is exactly what I have tested. Constant voltage means regardless of the change In input the output is Constant
Hello, I'm currently setting up the Boost Voltage Converter, DROK 1500W Voltage Regulator DC 10-60V Step Up to 12-90V 20A Input Power Supply Module Volt Transformer Circuit Board. I have not connected it to a load yet but I'm measuring about 59 volts out with nothing connected. Does someone know what the open circuit voltage will be?
Hello, I think you have not paid attention. All my test it has been open circuit. I've shown load with zero current and then turned it ON. I don't understand if you are referring to something else.
@@WattHour Yes. I understand now. For some reason the unit I received was set for 60V vs 19V which I assumed to be the default.
Thanks for the video, it is very informative. Now I want know if input is 12v @10 amp (from a battery of 12v 10c) and output required 48v to be connected in a motor with 48v 900w, then is the motor performance good? Please help me with your advice.
Thank you.
Any device that has constant current should be able to handle short circuit at th output. Else CC has no meaning
12V@10 Amp = 120watt as the source. the load is 900w. The source cannot drive the load.
Thanks for your efforts, i have 2 questions
1- Is it safe to use this module with computer laptop 19v
2- can I use this module with UPS (Uninterruptible power supply)
thanks
for question 1, I believe I've shown enough tests so the viewer can come to conclusion. to supply 19V or any other voltage, I've shown that you can set it. but this is way powerful 1500W and I tested it. laptop needs the most 200W-200W for gaming laptop and for regular laptop you need something like 100W maximum. So it would be waste to pay more and not use it 2- I have not paid attention to how fast it turns ON, but if you can connect it faster to a power source I believe it should work. But for accurate information please contact the manufacturer.
I intend to use the one I just ordered on my e-bike which usually pulls 3kw @ 52v(58.8v). I’m limiting the controller amps to 22A to give around 1,500w so I’m hoping I will get a higher RPM for the hub motor at the cost of torque and acceleration. I ordered two fans to replace the nasty cheap one that’s on it, hopefully will hold the temperature down lower.
44:01 - u have to rotate it counter-clockwise to lower the voltage protection to minimum 9 volts in order to let all range of voltage to work and charge
When charging a battery wouldn't it make sense to turn the constant current control to the minimum, then set the constant voltage to the charge voltage, then turn the current control up to the charge rate you want?
that is better approach indeed.
Hello. Can I use this to charge a 60v battery using a 12v solar panel using this device?
yes you can but you have to know how much is the charge current for your battery and set the limit. if you don't set the limit, you battery will get damaged.
Grazie in attesa di una risposta ti faccio tanti saluti dall'italia grazie
Grazie. Saluti dal Canada
Can I use this to charge 13S Li-Ion with 54.6v at 7A ? Just set the voltage to 54.6v and the CC to 7A right?
Please watch the video and see how to set the current
Hi I have the same problem with my 7s1p LiFe battery. Do I need a special load to set the current? I tried putting 12V batteries on parallel to adjust current at 12V but it was giving me 10A no matter which position the pot was at. Do I need a special load for this?
Thank you for your video ! excellent work ! I plan to buy 3 or 4pcs of this and connected them in parallel, I will add a blocking diode at the positive connector of output side before parallel connection. The idea to add this component to prevent back flow current from other units. Do you think this product can be connected parallel to bring up bigger current output ? I plan to use this to charge my battery pack of 560Ah.
I used no diode and it immediately killed one of them. I don't know if I'd recommend it. Wish they made bigger ones.
Did you try out the idea and what was the result. I guess, the OR-ing diode concept should work, provided the individual CC/CV modules are powered by the same input source.
There is some critical things I need to do in order to parallel multiple converters together. 1) same power source 2) same length of cable on input and output side 3) blocking diode at the output side of positive 4) set the CV at same voltage (this is most difficult part as the CV potentiometer is very tricky, sometimes it goes 0.1V to 0.2V up or down when you just make a very slight turn. It is better to set up individual voltage meter display with at least 4 digits "00.00" at the output of each converter before diode, better to have 5 digits "00.000" display. In this way you can monitor right away the change of voltage when connecting to load, set the CV before connecting to the load at the range of difference 0.02V or less if possible. Wider the range of difference causes unbalance, this would result in the current overdraw in the converter running at higher voltage, then it burns.) 5) the voltage drop of blocking diode will change as the block diode gets warm, basically the resistance of diode gets lower when it is warm. The point is that rate of resistance drop is not all same across the diodes, so select the diodes with nearly same voltage drop by using multimeter before using them. This will narrow down the impact. 6) Keep monitoring the voltage change the first 20 min after connecting to load(i.e. charging battery pack), the voltage and the current will start high for a short moment, then gradually decrease, adjust the CV when the voltage delta is 0.2V or over, it does not matter which converter you choose, all depended on the output current & voltage you want. If you do not want to exceed the battery pack voltage, then lower the converter with highest voltage. As I mention earlier, you have to be very patient to play around with this CV and pay close attention to the voltage change. The converter itself will have voltage change even you do not do anything on CV, but it will get stable after 20 min. 7) Measure the output current of each converter and make sure the value is not much different. Adjust the CV to make them balance as close as possible, For instance, you run two converter in parallel, one is measured 10A output while other one is 8A, that is acceptable as long as both of them stay at this value for 15 min, it should not change much down the road, but if one lower one is 5A, then it is different story, it is so unbalance. You can either choose to adjust the CV of lower one to match the higher one(you get higher total current output), or adjust the CV of higher one to match the lower one (you get lower total current output). Overall speaking, it is challenging process, but it is fun ! as long as all converters has very close output voltage and run in same voltage for 20 min with load, the whole system is stable to run continuously. Good luck !
very good info, very interesting videos, i need to install a 600 watts hf amplifier in my truck, the problem is the amplifier needs 48-50 volts to work, and i only have 12 v from my truck battery, do you think this booster will do the job? best regards
I by I have tested with voltage of 12V and shown the maximum power. I don’t remember the power value so it it is 600w the yes it will work. So check my test for 12v or value close to 12V
Hello, If you live in Canada or USA, I am giving away this DL24P 180W load and energy meter. Make sure to sign up for it ruclips.net/video/-UblSfUEY-0/видео.html
Nice Video
Thanks for the visit
Can i use it with 100A 12v car batery to generate 60v for electric motobike?
Yes
How did you connect the voltage sensor to the PC? so you can monitor what's going on! can you please help me !
it does not have any connectivity feature for computer. you may modify it yourself.
@@WattHour what's the software ?
there is not software. I said you write your own software and modify it to work for your purpose. or use Arduino IDE (Arduino software)
@@WattHour oh thanks dude ☺️