You were saying that you wanted to try different generators but I tink you would benefit from making your own. I watch another channel where he does a lot of wind turbines ans shows how to make your own generators. have a look youtube.com/@TnTOmnibus?si=cNwLmYfIMUZDtHec
I'm pretty sure that if a person uses a 12 volt DC to 120 v ac inverter along with a couple or few high boost inverters along with lastly a transformer that transforms let's say 1,500 v ac back down to 120 v ac would decrease the main amp load on the 12 v battery source.
Been following along almost since the start. Finally signed up for Patreon. Love your content and your great teaching skills. I have a bit of German blood and have been to Germany several times (for my past job as a cinematographer). Now I work as a photovoltaic designer so it's zuper kool when you work on solar related projects.
I've said this before, but it bears repeating: You are the only person who ever explains things exactly the way my brain works. You grow your circuits organically rather than just start from the finish product and throw math around. You show the solution as it grows, with context. It's not the only way I learn, but it's by far the easiest. Thanks again.
Yes! It isn't enough to know what a given thing 'will' do. I have a brain that will throw a tantrum if the 'will' isn't paired with a 'how' From first principle to end result. Even as a child, knowing the TV will operate when I flip the switch is not enough. It caused much frustration for the adults around me! 😂
18:10 the generator itself can be used as the inductor in a boost converter, simply shorting it out will build up the magnetic field, which can then be released into your capacitor bank. The boosted voltage will also be much higher than before, so diode drop will no longer be a concern. This is how regen works in motors.
Probably no idea what I'm talking about here. But if you short out the generator is there not a risk of loading the physical structure of the wheel too much and ripping the wheel from the generator?
For real. His videos got me into electronics, I mean really into it. I was going to school for electrical engineering but didn't know what it was all about till I found TPAI
Those SMPS videos you did years ago were how I found your channel -- they were a couple years old at that point, but are still relevant today. I appreciate that you generally present concepts in the form of an application in your videos. It's a big help to me to see _why_ I ought to know something, rather than just be drilled into knowing it. 👍
„Finding solutions for problems that you are actually invested in“ really is the key to learning new things for me. It makes everything so much more fun and easier to focus on, even if the topic itself is complicated. I also really liked that you covered the downwards conversion as well even if it’s not used here as it completes the picture. Definitely learned something for my next projects, thank you :)
I discovered your channel many years ago because of your electronic teaching videos. I have now learn to appreciate all the content you produce. I am glad to see more electronic related topics.
Hey!! I was actually thinking that this was the SMPS tutorial 6 before you mentioned it. Clearly I am an OG subscriber. Glad to see you are still at it. I started watching you in early Highschool, I am doing my final few weeks in Electronic engineering. Much love from South Africa man🙏🏾💯🔥
I really enjoyed the SMPS Tutorial series and was rather sad when I got to the end of the playlist, expecting for more videos. You're providing a great learning resource and a continuation to this series would be awesome. Either way, I'm still thankful for your effort!
This is all wonderful information. Some engineer might even site this as their inspiration for how they got into engineering one day... However, I just want you to make videos about fixing broken stuff that you get at the dump. Glad you are doing you though!
Very nice demonstration of a simple boost converter. I had never thought of controlling one manually, but it demonstrates the principle very nicely as the operator gets to watch the voltage rise and fall as they control the current.
Nice refresher on buck converters and voltage multiplier circuits. I learned the basics in my electronics classes a long time ago, but in the real world we considered most power supplies to be disposable.
Its a neat project to learn and experiment, and I made a few simple boost converters out of scrap parts myself over the years. But it's not something you would do if you just need a buck/boost converter, unless you already have the parts. It's usually cheaper to just buy a complete module instead of individual parts, and depending on skill level even more reliable.
Android phones normally regulate charge current based on voltage. They increase the current until the voltage drops bellow 5V then reduce it slightly to keep the charger happy. That's also why they don't require the D+ and D- lines tied up. Great video, thanks for the content and greetings from BW.
There are different charging protocol and this is the case with USB_FLOAT which mean d+,d-,cc pin all not connected With USB_DCP it'll draw as little as 500ma and if it can't it refuse to charge
Bravo! A wonderful episode, Gerolf. Lots of great information and a learning experience. Buck and boost converters have always fascinated me and it was informative to see how you made each. With the ability to buy them from eBay or Amazon in bunches, it is cheaper to just buy them, but where's the fun in that? The waterwheel project is coming along nicely - thank you for touching on that again. I have seen some folks make fairly powerful water generators by using hoverboard motors as they can make power fairly(?) easily. It's fun to play with permanent magnet generators as well as alternator types where one uses electromagnets with slip rings and such. If and when you ever make that shop in the woods - the home away from home, then you can power it with a water or wind turbine, or both, along with some photovoltaics! I really find value in your videos - please keep at them as the spirit moves you!
😆I was going to make a similar comment - you can buy pre-packaged buck-boost chips made for a specific voltage like 20V 5V etc. One of my never-ending projects is an open source / repairable comic-book reader that would be powered by 5V USB, and its buck-boost has a big input range of 1-50V, good efficiency and enough mA to power the raspberry pi and screen, so you can just chuck batteries at it mostly without thinking.☢They'd be good as both spare parts and bartering chips (they were about 2 cm wide), and I could focus on my main skills - locks, guns, and software engineering! 🤓
An excellent tutorial. I have bought a commercial boost convertor to charge my 24V mobility scooter from the 12V in my van, but I was reluctant to dismantle it to see how it works. Thanks to your tutorial, I now understand the principles of of its operation. This sort of device was never covered in the electronics course at college (over 50 years ago), but I try to keep learning.
One note about Lenovo charging cables; inside the plug is a small resistor connected between Ground and the Centre ID pin, it tells the laptop what size power supply is connected so it knows to limit the current it's taking, there's a thread on BadCaps called "Lenovo ID pin resistor values" that details what ohm resistance to use to go from 45 watts up to 170 watts to make up a DIY charger cable; changing the resistor on the other hand, that requires completely removing all the plastic from the plug to access the soldered terminals inside, but, from frequent experience, given their PSU cables disintegrate alarmingly quickly (with green goo forming inside, plus broken wires around the ironically named strain reliefs!), then it's no loss to do so, cos the cable will be shot anyway so may as well save the plugs... :)
My folks were too poorly educated to teach any of these concepts and school skipped anything to do with electronics. They did the minimum to get by. I'd have loved to be an engineer of something.
This was more of a ‘how to’ rather than theory video. Take what your folks shared with you and seek out knowledge from where it is. RUclips is full of info from knowledgeable people as well as in a technical school or college setting. Videos like this spark ideas, a good base for seeking out more and more useful info to build upon.
@@dennis1954that's right, you'll not be good at complicated analysis with these videos. But these are good foundational/contextual and increases practical knowledge and intuition. Mathematically rigorous part is equally important.
Getting back to your first experiment (tapping the bass conductors) I found the first multivibrator circuit in my fathers 1961 Oldsmobile, in the car radio. The car radios back then were vacuum tube (valves) circuits. There was a four pin canister (looked much like a capacitor) that was mounted in a socket. I took a old 120 volt AC tabletop radio, hooked wires to the plug (United States style) and probed around till I got it to work, which it did but with a lot of static. I took apart this canister and inside I found that powering two of the pins it vibrated a square rack (for the lack of better words) that rack opened and closed a set of points, much like you did in your experiment. Mind you I did this when I was 11 years old, 1968.
WOW. That practical demo of the flyback was great - thats the first time I have ever grasped what actually happens - thanks for this enlightening video
I always be waiting for the power electronics videos, this channel have the firsts videos that I see when I was at University trying to understand the SMPS, glad to see today we have a new episode, thanks for the time and effort.
How appropriate, I'm sitting here wearing my respirator, looking like some post-apocalyptic inventor as I work on an electronics project. I finished working on the electronics part and was just cementing some plastic pieces together to make a bracket to mount the boards. Anyway, I may already be familiar with boost converters, but it's always good to have an interesting video to watch in the background while I work on my projects.
I love your videos man I always go down rabbit holes of learning every time I've worked around electricity on macro and micro levels most of my life and never knew what inductance was measured in nor the history behind it thank you for making me want to learn more every single video
Your electrical knoledge is off the charts I wish I had that type of electrical knowledge I've studied but just don't seem to grab it your videos are awesome
Another great video Gerolf, thank you. I really appreciate the clear and thorough way you present what to me is rather unfamiliar information. It'll take a few viewings for my old brain to absorb it all but with your top quality instruction I know I'll get there eventually. Please keep it coming.
Love this series and was looking forward to new episodes for years ;) Not sure how many years ago I started watching your channel, but it's been a very long time. There need to be more videos like this out there exploring self-made power. Inflation and greed have rocketed power costs into space and there will probably be a time when power costs will exceed food costs and then some. Power is becoming a luxury in a lot of the world. I would love to see a very, very deep dive into SMPS efficiency, specifically how PSU makers get ratings of over 94% in their SMPS and how we can do the same. There are so many topics in the SMPS field like synchronous rectifiers that eliminate diode drops, and all the different topologies that offer different benefits/efficiencies/drawbacks to cover. Dozens of videos can be made in this area and I'd watch every single one :) Also more generator videos are fully welcome as well :)
To answer your question I've been subbed for around 6 years, the DIY Cargo Bike was the video that made me subscribe. Great video as always my friend, thank you for uploading and spreading the knowledge!! 👍👍
One of my first electronics projects was a variable 20 amp DC power supply with a buck converter regulator. Anyone who invested the time an research to do such a project would definitely know something about electronics afterwards. A very valuable learning experience, especially since most every device has some kind of switching power supply.
What's missing on a lot of PSU designs is output protection, I prefer to have a crowbar on any PSU I'm going to connect to a valuable device. I bought a battery eliminator for my camera and there is nothing to stop the boost converter jumping to it's max output should the feedback go open circuit. this would easy write off a expensive camera. a few pence worth of extra components should have made it a lot better and safer for use. I'll use the dummy battery and lead but the bust convert will be used for something less expensive.
I would love to see more videos like this! I am a compulsive scrapper but for a lot of the electronics that pass by I don't really know what I could or should be doing with them. Maybe its time to finally try my own hand at some of the hand-tool repair that you make look easy!
Brilliant information. I have learned a lot from this single video. You explain the electronic information very well. I don't always leave a comment but watch your videos every time. Thank you for your information and knowledge sharing. 👌👍
Thanks you are a hidden gem. It's my first time to see you. I am Phd in control engineering and i love electronic stuff and always i play experiments in my Lab. I like your way of explaining and teaching i usually lime to use this method. 👍
All switchmode converters that regulate the output have a negative resistance input characteristic. This means that if the input voltage is increased the input current decreases. If such a converter is connected to a source that cannot deliver sufficient _power_ to meet the requirement of the load connected to the output of the converter, the converter will go to maximum duty cycle as it tries to regulate. A waterwheel is a power limited source. As such it almost certainly has a peak in its power generating response - with any given water flow the maximum power will be delivered at some particular loading on the generator. This is a "peak power tracker" or "maximum power point" problem, very similar to that with a photovoltaic source, though the MPP is probably much harder to predict accurately than with a PV array. A properly controlled switchmode converter can be made to operate at the MPP.
You really should look at MartyT youtuber's waterwheel generator built with discarded washing machines, he's powered his whole house off the grid in NZ. He has detailed build instructions. But your lil' waterwheel is cute.
Really interesting build, thanks. The best water wheel turbine design result from a creek's water flow was using one modified from a standard old NZ or Australian washing machine. If you search i am sure it will turn up (it was for free power at home). But it was a fantastic, and free (scrap) design, very different from our European standard water wheels and much more like a turbine. Take a look, especially if you want a better (more power/flow) result. Thanks for the video. PS Found the video creator....his name is Angry Ram He is also there as Marty T
Your water wheel is an undershot design (I'm guessing for simplicity of design/manufacture). If you could come up with an overshot design you'd get a big increase in efficiency and power (mechanical power from the wheel that is). The hard part would be making that design portable and easily set up, of course...but I'm sure YOU could do it 🙂
They do sell step up boost buck converters. I have a 60w that boost12v-60v up to 60v-120v. I have a 58v charger that I boost to 120v connected to a solar charger that charges a E-Trike.
I have been a supporter since your original series on SMPS, and I have been waiting and waiting for the conclusion as I would like to design a bipolar SMPS to produce + and - 15V from a +12V source. Thank you for the great videos.
Fantastic, a true Post Apocalyptic Inventor! Might I suggest making a portable 'sluice' of about 1-2 m to feed upstream water into the wheel. You might be less likely to get your feet wet!
My appreciation of your work, channel, and overarching project just continues to grow. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and just as importantly your perspective. 🙏
The SMPS tutorial is awesome and I love the detail you went into in it and this seems like a great addition to it. I think it's kool to mix it up between the junkyard restoration and build videos to keep the channel from feeling stagnate. But whatever you do, I along with many others will be here to watch it. Thanks for sharing you work with us!
Love the instructional content and would enjoy seeing more. (But to be honest I enjoy all of your content, so whatever you're going to post I'll watch.)
Thanks for this video. Power supplies are such a broad topic, and such a common source of problems when repairing old electronics that learning about them is sort of inevitable!
Nowadays when you can buy a off the shelf buck boost converter that is capable of 30v2a for $0.5 there's absolutely no reason to make your own but it's still a great video to learn how they works
@@OtherDalfite I just followed the example schematic without knowing what I'm doing ... Idk if it'll work is my first time so chances r high that it won't
Thank you so much! For off grid (due to inefficiencies converters) using 110-250v AC appliances that are then stepped down back to DC such as laptops, your circuits make it easy to go from 12/24/48 v systems without having to use massively expensive inverters. I'm about to look at the smps series I can't remember if I've watched before.
Inverters have some advantages though- built in battery over discharge protection for instance. If there is a plan to use 12V car battery. I have 150VA cheap inverter and I connected output plug to 310V DC bypassing squerwave inverter part- laptop and mobile phone 230V AC chargers accept it without complaints. (maybe some don't) At idle it draws about 4W. Buck converters are more versatile though- can work from anything from car 12V and powertool 20V to truck 24V.
GREAT video! I can't count the number of times your project match exactly what I'm doing at the time. This has happened at least 15-20 times since I started watching. I'm dealing with charging 20v from a car too & all the common options on Amazon or Ebay are too expensive (IMO) or they output too little current for my laptop to initiate the charging cycle (it needs 11.5A at full current & seems to require a minimum of 3.25A to even start charging while the screen is closed - it won't charge w/ that little current while running & screen is on). Anyway, thank you so much for these video's and this channel, I have learned a lot watching this channel and you have cleared up a lot of things on which I was confused. I also love seeing different parts of Germany & would really like to get back over there some time and see things from my more experienced (older - I was a kid when last there) perspective.
Yes, exactly: I watch electronics videos and I know nothing about, expecting to get some knowledge out of it sometimes . . . But I'ld love to stumble upon videos that'll start from the mowest level.
I want to point out many 12v car stuff can have a working voltages from 9v to 24v or greater, you just have to check the label and spec sheets. For an example I bought some Usb a and usb c charger that works up to 24v. I opted to get 24v 3.5a power supplies to add to my recliners so that I could charge my laptop while there. These chargers also supply PD which will convert the voltage up to what it needs to charge a usb c laptop. I not only used the same chargers on power supplies. I also used them with my tool batteries. I bought the adapters for tools and then the chargers and opened them up and wired and glued them together. The cost of the parts and my time was still cheaper and better than what they have on the market for those tool batteries. I am sure that if I had a better source for these types of parts and maybe knew how to use a 3d printer I could have printed custom made ones for a dirt cheap price. In the end I am happy for what they are.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned this, but many laptops (that take 18-20V) will actually run on 12V (or 12~15V) just fine, even if you remove the battery. The only problem is that the battery cannot charge due to the low voltage. In fact I have a shoddily put together adapter that lets me plug my laptop into my car using a direct connection. It rarely gets used now, but when I traveled more, I used it often and it worked well (keeping in mind the no-charging limitation).
youtube recommmended this because I was looking for reviews of cheap converters few weeks ago.. While I don't like school, I think understoond voltage boosting just by books/blackboard on the topic of transistor-amplifiers. I suggest you discuss teach the difference of MPPT vs converters. I think many will find interest and i've seen many youtubers misunderstand it.
Nice to see the SMPS series revived. Thanks for this! I'm at a place where I'm actually starting to learn electronics, so this was at a good level for me. I looked up the LT1070. It's not a cheap part, but maybe I can find some. I'm curious what you scrapped to find these originally.
There are many similiar ICs, also at much lower prices or for lower input voltages. Check for instance the LM2577 for step-up or the LM2596 for step-down.
Great video my friend! Is it true that the core of the output filtering stage of an ATX power supply is not plain ferrite like all the other transformers and inductors you usually see? Keep them coming! I would love to see a bigger water wheel and maybe spend a bit more time damming the river to direct the flow to get it really going!
If you are referring to toroidal inductors in the output filter, then no, they most definitely are not ferrite. By far the most common material for such inductor cores is "powdered iron." It is quite literally tiny particles of iron alloy held together with an organic binder. This means there is a large "distributed" air gap. Powdered iron cores can be made with a wide range of permeabilities by varying to proportion of iron particles. An initial permeability of 75 is very popular for power applications at moderate frequency. In comparison, the permeability of power ferrites is typically around 2500 to 3000. There are a couple of higher performance materials as alternatives to powdered iron. One is "sendust." Magnetics Inc's "Kool Mu" cores are made of this. The losses are considerably lower than powdered iron but they are more expensive. Molybdenum permalloy powder is even better but it has become extremely expensive. toroid painted yellow with one white face - Micrometals type 26 powdered iron with permeability of 75 or a copy/counterfeit toroid painted pale green with one blue face - Micrometals type 52 powdered iron with permeability of 75 or a copy/counterfeit; a little more expensive than type 26 but with some useful improvements in performance toroid painted black - _possibly_ a Kool Mu core
@@d614gakadoug9 Ok so his converter with that toroid is probably not very efficient then. It would be more useful as an output filtering inductor between the first and second stage output capacitors right? I know in the typical ATX PSU circuit that toroid is before any capacitance acting more like a buck converter to keep currents and transients in check across all rails at the same time. Then the open ended inductors give the second stage filtering. Do you have any info or general rules of thumb about that kind of circuitry?
@@SuperBrainAK Powder cores can yield good efficiency if you know what you are doing. There are many tradeoffs that have to be considered in power inductor design. Ferrite core losses are significantly lower than those of powder cores but the latter have some other advantages. Ferrite is a very poor heat conductor, so heat due to winding loss is a major concern. Ferrite saturation is very "hard" or abrupt with regard to magnetizing force whereas powder material saturation is much "softer." A bobbin or "former" as used with ferrite cores is usually much easier to wind but winding loses can be greater if multiple layers of wire or foil are required. I've used powdered iron cores, mostly Micrometals type 52, for the inductors in industrial buck converters where good performance was very important. I've used them for the output inductors in mains-operated SMPS from 150 W to 1 kW where the ripple current was 200 kHz. I have used moly permalloy powder cores, too, notably where a client wanted to increase the power from an already hard-pushed buck converter originally using a powdered iron core. I've used Magnetics Inc's Kool Mu for the inductor for a 1200 W universal input active power factor correction stage (about 95% or better efficiency; an active PF stage is a boost converter that makes the instantaneous input current directly proportional to the instantaneous input voltage and inversely proportional to the average input voltage). I've also used Micrometals type 75 for the inductor in a buck type converter photovoltatic-input MPP "tracker" charger for military lithium ion batteries, where efficiency was very important. An ATX power supply IS essentially a buck converter with a transformer to get the voltage down to something manageable before it is applied to the buck inductor. The inductor is one of the two energy storage devices required in a switcher. The output capacitors are the other. While these are often called "filters," and that isn't wrong, their primary role is energy storage and delivery. The small open-path inductors are there "just" for high-frequency filtering in conjunction with addtional capacitors. The core is often ferrite but with what amounts to a huge air gap between the ends. I can't say there are any "rules of thumb" there. Losses are almost entirely DC resistive losses in the winding since those inductors are subjected to very little ripple current.
@@d614gakadoug9 Thank you! Such an awesome info dump! Your fountain of knowledge is much appreciated. I'm pretty sure I understood all that. Ferrite saturating abruptly versus iron, in comparison, being gradual. Active PFC I know well just from "reading" power supply circuit boards. It is neat that at it's core it is just a boost converter but it does not operate at a constant rate, it has to constantly change it's duty cycle in proportion with the mains 60Hz sinewave rectified to DC but minimally filtered. I just want to make sure you are aware of the projects I've done and made videos about. I am always talking about DC-DC modules, RuiDeng digital lab supplies and myriads of different USB chargers. Probably my coolest DC-DC project has been my "3000W Boost Converter" taking 2 of those super cheap converters and completely rebuilding them with 2 stage (working in unison so no frequency doubling, yet) to properly handle more power. I want to thank you again for your time and sharing your knowledge with me and everyone reading! 🧡
Hey! Glad to see some more in-depth experimentation. I do have a few ideas/questions.. I typically use LM2596 Boost and XL6009/LM2577 prefab modules for things like this (IE 14V supply for LED backlight[conversion] driver in a 9V/5V only LCD screen) but i've been having problems doing it without adding 0.15uF caps to get rid of tiny spikes from the oscillator. one of my biggest peeves is TO220-style LED drivers. I've only ever found a regulator for under-voltage sources, but none for over-voltage.. Something super simple to put in series with an LED (or LED digit Vcc) that would work anywhere between 2v and 20v. Seems too much to ask these days.
If you have a few sources of low voltage and power, could you merge them together? For example, some small salvaged solar panels of different makes, the water wheel and maybe a bicycle. Just to capture everything you can get a hold of and centralize it to, say, a single 12 V battery or battery bank.
True the educational system has failed me at a young age and am 37 years now I have always love electrical engineering but had no information on how to learn it back then but as the internet came I was happy to find tons of information that I downloaded and books I study now I am a great engineer I spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on semiconductors teaching my self and learning how to created multivibrator and using op amp to as oscillator and creating spwm and inverter signal for half bridge inverter and learn how to use pwm and spwm together for full bridge inverter and adding dead time was the hardest but I learn how to now am progressing to writing code for my digital signal buck converter and buck boost converter and boost converter solar mppt is easier now thanks to the internet I save my self millions of Dallas to go to another country university
sir, thanks for sharing. please forgive my ignorance. i want to know why you used 2 of the IC instead of one as in the circuit diagram. i will like to build my own. also i will like to know how you tied it all together. again, thanks
As a point of interest, a gentleman in New Zealand (@MartyT) has an off grid property that is partially powered by a hydro electric turbine made from a washing machine. You might find his videos useful in your experiments.
I think a quick diagramme with a few words would go a long way to deepen the understanding of the setups as the setup itself cannot easily be recognised on the screen
I needed to build several external regulators for a Delco 21si alternator. To produce 29v or 58v DC, probably also using external 3phase rectifiers . Being the 12v alternator diodes are rated higher than 14v I have seen over 50v from a alternator, but this is not constant. And I want to use a large heatsink. With about 1000 v diodes, capable of about 200 amps being the alternator is 130 and 150 amp and do not want to run it at its peak rating. I have a few scr's and may look for diodes to fit the heatsinks, to re use them. I have diodes from a welder maybe I will look for more like this. If the ratings are suitable.. wind turbine rectifiers could work . With two parallel, I'd use a 3mm x 12mm copper bus bar to parallel everything, with a m5 bolt connection the 100 amp 1kv rating should work. The use of a MOSFET ideal diode would be nice. The crazy frequency they need to run at could be a issue. It's possible to see 200kHz the alternator spinning 3k rpm at its slowest And nearly 10k peak, magnets are passing poles fast. Much more the 50-60 Hz!
Explain snubbers in next video please. I know quite a bit about electronics but still O learn a lot of things from your channel. Thanks for the quality content there's not much on social media nowadays.
What about the SEPIC converter topology. It can boost-buck and is extremely easy to make. You just need to modify your boost converter by adding additional diode and coil.
The best way to support the production of future videos is to become a supporter on Patreon: www.patreon.com/TPAI
WW4 will be fought out by/with Sticks & Stones...
Any chance to decifer Chromosom nr.2... ????!!!!
You were saying that you wanted to try different generators but I tink you would benefit from making your own. I watch another channel where he does a lot of wind turbines ans shows how to make your own generators. have a look
youtube.com/@TnTOmnibus?si=cNwLmYfIMUZDtHec
I'm pretty sure that if a person uses a 12 volt DC to 120 v ac inverter along with a couple or few high boost inverters along with lastly a transformer that transforms let's say 1,500 v ac back down to 120 v ac would decrease the main amp load on the 12 v battery source.
Been following along almost since the start. Finally signed up for Patreon. Love your content and your great teaching skills. I have a bit of German blood and have been to Germany several times (for my past job as a cinematographer). Now I work as a photovoltaic designer so it's zuper kool when you work on solar related projects.
@@daveluxton8317 must be nice to be wealthy.
I've said this before, but it bears repeating: You are the only person who ever explains things exactly the way my brain works. You grow your circuits organically rather than just start from the finish product and throw math around. You show the solution as it grows, with context. It's not the only way I learn, but it's by far the easiest. Thanks again.
Yes! It isn't enough to know what a given thing 'will' do. I have a brain that will throw a tantrum if the 'will' isn't paired with a 'how' From first principle to end result. Even as a child, knowing the TV will operate when I flip the switch is not enough. It caused much frustration for the adults around me! 😂
18:10 the generator itself can be used as the inductor in a boost converter, simply shorting it out will build up the magnetic field, which can then be released into your capacitor bank. The boosted voltage will also be much higher than before, so diode drop will no longer be a concern.
This is how regen works in motors.
A very good idea indeed!
Probably no idea what I'm talking about here. But if you short out the generator is there not a risk of loading the physical structure of the wheel too much and ripping the wheel from the generator?
@@ThePostApocalypticInventorHow can i contact you ?
Hey TPAI, thank you!
Your early inductor power supply series is the best on RUclips.
I don't think he's finished the whole series unfortunately...
For real. His videos got me into electronics, I mean really into it. I was going to school for electrical engineering but didn't know what it was all about till I found TPAI
Those SMPS videos you did years ago were how I found your channel -- they were a couple years old at that point, but are still relevant today. I appreciate that you generally present concepts in the form of an application in your videos. It's a big help to me to see _why_ I ought to know something, rather than just be drilled into knowing it. 👍
„Finding solutions for problems that you are actually invested in“ really is the key to learning new things for me. It makes everything so much more fun and easier to focus on, even if the topic itself is complicated. I also really liked that you covered the downwards conversion as well even if it’s not used here as it completes the picture. Definitely learned something for my next projects, thank you :)
I discovered your channel many years ago because of your electronic teaching videos. I have now learn to appreciate all the content you produce. I am glad to see more electronic related topics.
Hey!! I was actually thinking that this was the SMPS tutorial 6 before you mentioned it. Clearly I am an OG subscriber. Glad to see you are still at it. I started watching you in early Highschool, I am doing my final few weeks in Electronic engineering. Much love from South Africa man🙏🏾💯🔥
I really enjoyed the SMPS Tutorial series and was rather sad when I got to the end of the playlist, expecting for more videos.
You're providing a great learning resource and a continuation to this series would be awesome. Either way, I'm still thankful for your effort!
This is all wonderful information. Some engineer might even site this as their inspiration for how they got into engineering one day... However, I just want you to make videos about fixing broken stuff that you get at the dump. Glad you are doing you though!
Very nice demonstration of a simple boost converter. I had never thought of controlling one manually, but it demonstrates the principle very nicely as the operator gets to watch the voltage rise and fall as they control the current.
Pulsing the circuit by hand @8.15 is a brilliant teaching aid. Hats off to you from the welsh coast
Nice refresher on buck converters and voltage multiplier circuits. I learned the basics in my electronics classes a long time ago, but in the real world we considered most power supplies to be disposable.
Its a neat project to learn and experiment, and I made a few simple boost converters out of scrap parts myself over the years.
But it's not something you would do if you just need a buck/boost converter, unless you already have the parts.
It's usually cheaper to just buy a complete module instead of individual parts, and depending on skill level even more reliable.
Android phones normally regulate charge current based on voltage. They increase the current until the voltage drops bellow 5V then reduce it slightly to keep the charger happy.
That's also why they don't require the D+ and D- lines tied up.
Great video, thanks for the content and greetings from BW.
There are different charging protocol and this is the case with USB_FLOAT which mean d+,d-,cc pin all not connected
With USB_DCP it'll draw as little as 500ma and if it can't it refuse to charge
Bravo! A wonderful episode, Gerolf. Lots of great information and a learning experience. Buck and boost converters have always fascinated me and it was informative to see how you made each. With the ability to buy them from eBay or Amazon in bunches, it is cheaper to just buy them, but where's the fun in that? The waterwheel project is coming along nicely - thank you for touching on that again. I have seen some folks make fairly powerful water generators by using hoverboard motors as they can make power fairly(?) easily. It's fun to play with permanent magnet generators as well as alternator types where one uses electromagnets with slip rings and such. If and when you ever make that shop in the woods - the home away from home, then you can power it with a water or wind turbine, or both, along with some photovoltaics! I really find value in your videos - please keep at them as the spirit moves you!
😆I was going to make a similar comment - you can buy pre-packaged buck-boost chips made for a specific voltage like 20V 5V etc. One of my never-ending projects is an open source / repairable comic-book reader that would be powered by 5V USB, and its buck-boost has a big input range of 1-50V, good efficiency and enough mA to power the raspberry pi and screen, so you can just chuck batteries at it mostly without thinking.☢They'd be good as both spare parts and bartering chips (they were about 2 cm wide), and I could focus on my main skills - locks, guns, and software engineering! 🤓
An excellent tutorial. I have bought a commercial boost convertor to charge my 24V mobility scooter from the 12V in my van, but I was reluctant to dismantle it to see how it works. Thanks to your tutorial, I now understand the principles of of its operation.
This sort of device was never covered in the electronics course at college (over 50 years ago), but I try to keep learning.
Terrific video, it feels like a natural evolution from your early videos and the scrapyard finds. Lets start building this post apocalyptic world
The most clear and practical explanation ever I've ever watched on youtube.
Great job. The way you explain things, shows you have a deep and practiced understanding of the subject. You're an excellent teacher.
One note about Lenovo charging cables; inside the plug is a small resistor connected between Ground and the Centre ID pin, it tells the laptop what size power supply is connected so it knows to limit the current it's taking, there's a thread on BadCaps called "Lenovo ID pin resistor values" that details what ohm resistance to use to go from 45 watts up to 170 watts to make up a DIY charger cable; changing the resistor on the other hand, that requires completely removing all the plastic from the plug to access the soldered terminals inside, but, from frequent experience, given their PSU cables disintegrate alarmingly quickly (with green goo forming inside, plus broken wires around the ironically named strain reliefs!), then it's no loss to do so, cos the cable will be shot anyway so may as well save the plugs... :)
My folks were too poorly educated to teach any of these concepts and school skipped anything to do with electronics. They did the minimum to get by. I'd have loved to be an engineer of something.
What?
This was more of a ‘how to’ rather than theory video. Take what your folks shared with you and seek out knowledge from where it is. RUclips is full of info from knowledgeable people as well as in a technical school or college setting. Videos like this spark ideas, a good base for seeking out more and more useful info to build upon.
Most schools won't teach this until you get to college
@@dennis1954that's right, you'll not be good at complicated analysis with these videos. But these are good foundational/contextual and increases practical knowledge and intuition. Mathematically rigorous part is equally important.
Getting back to your first experiment (tapping the bass conductors) I found the first multivibrator circuit in my fathers 1961 Oldsmobile, in the car radio. The car radios back then were vacuum tube (valves) circuits. There was a four pin canister (looked much like a capacitor) that was mounted in a socket. I took a old 120 volt AC tabletop radio, hooked wires to the plug (United States style) and probed around till I got it to work, which it did but with a lot of static. I took apart this canister and inside I found that powering two of the pins it vibrated a square rack (for the lack of better words) that rack opened and closed a set of points, much like you did in your experiment. Mind you I did this when I was 11 years old, 1968.
WOW. That practical demo of the flyback was great - thats the first time I have ever grasped what actually happens - thanks for this enlightening video
I always be waiting for the power electronics videos, this channel have the firsts videos that I see when I was at University trying to understand the SMPS, glad to see today we have a new episode, thanks for the time and effort.
I first started watching your videos with the series on SMPS several years ago. Nice to see you returning to similar content.
How appropriate, I'm sitting here wearing my respirator, looking like some post-apocalyptic inventor as I work on an electronics project. I finished working on the electronics part and was just cementing some plastic pieces together to make a bracket to mount the boards.
Anyway, I may already be familiar with boost converters, but it's always good to have an interesting video to watch in the background while I work on my projects.
I've been following You since 2017. Your content continues to educate and Inspire Me to attain My goals!
I love your videos man I always go down rabbit holes of learning every time I've worked around electricity on macro and micro levels most of my life and never knew what inductance was measured in nor the history behind it thank you for making me want to learn more every single video
Now THIS I could watch all day. LEARNING! Thanks for paying attention to us over all these years.
That manual boost converter demo just made it make soo much sense
Your electrical knoledge is off the charts I wish I had that type of electrical knowledge I've studied but just don't seem to grab it your videos are awesome
Another great video Gerolf, thank you. I really appreciate the clear and thorough way you present what to me is rather unfamiliar information. It'll take a few viewings for my old brain to absorb it all but with your top quality instruction I know I'll get there eventually. Please keep it coming.
Your explanation of boost converter function was very clear and much appreciated
Love this series and was looking forward to new episodes for years ;) Not sure how many years ago I started watching your channel, but it's been a very long time. There need to be more videos like this out there exploring self-made power. Inflation and greed have rocketed power costs into space and there will probably be a time when power costs will exceed food costs and then some. Power is becoming a luxury in a lot of the world. I would love to see a very, very deep dive into SMPS efficiency, specifically how PSU makers get ratings of over 94% in their SMPS and how we can do the same. There are so many topics in the SMPS field like synchronous rectifiers that eliminate diode drops, and all the different topologies that offer different benefits/efficiencies/drawbacks to cover. Dozens of videos can be made in this area and I'd watch every single one :) Also more generator videos are fully welcome as well :)
To answer your question I've been subbed for around 6 years, the DIY Cargo Bike was the video that made me subscribe.
Great video as always my friend, thank you for uploading and spreading the knowledge!! 👍👍
One of my first electronics projects was a variable 20 amp DC power supply with a buck converter regulator. Anyone who invested the time an research to do such a project would definitely know something about electronics afterwards. A very valuable learning experience, especially since most every device has some kind of switching power supply.
What's missing on a lot of PSU designs is output protection, I prefer to have a crowbar on any PSU I'm going to connect to a valuable device.
I bought a battery eliminator for my camera and there is nothing to stop the boost converter jumping to it's max output should the feedback go open circuit. this would easy write off a expensive camera. a few pence worth of extra components should have made it a lot better and safer for use.
I'll use the dummy battery and lead but the bust convert will be used for something less expensive.
I would love to see more videos like this! I am a compulsive scrapper but for a lot of the electronics that pass by I don't really know what I could or should be doing with them.
Maybe its time to finally try my own hand at some of the hand-tool repair that you make look easy!
Brilliant information. I have learned a lot from this single video. You explain the electronic information very well. I don't always leave a comment but watch your videos every time.
Thank you for your information and knowledge sharing. 👌👍
Thanks you are a hidden gem.
It's my first time to see you. I am Phd in control engineering and i love electronic stuff and always i play experiments in my Lab. I like your way of explaining and teaching i usually lime to use this method. 👍
Your videos are super informative and inspiring! I managed to fix my old cordless drill thanks to you!
All switchmode converters that regulate the output have a negative resistance input characteristic. This means that if the input voltage is increased the input current decreases. If such a converter is connected to a source that cannot deliver sufficient _power_ to meet the requirement of the load connected to the output of the converter, the converter will go to maximum duty cycle as it tries to regulate.
A waterwheel is a power limited source. As such it almost certainly has a peak in its power generating response - with any given water flow the maximum power will be delivered at some particular loading on the generator. This is a "peak power tracker" or "maximum power point" problem, very similar to that with a photovoltaic source, though the MPP is probably much harder to predict accurately than with a PV array. A properly controlled switchmode converter can be made to operate at the MPP.
Awesome mate, really looking forward to your videos in this series, your approach is spot on!
You really should look at MartyT youtuber's waterwheel generator built with discarded washing machines, he's powered his whole house off the grid in NZ. He has detailed build instructions. But your lil' waterwheel is cute.
Really interesting build, thanks. The best water wheel turbine design result from a creek's water flow was using one modified from a standard old NZ or Australian washing machine. If you search i am sure it will turn up (it was for free power at home). But it was a fantastic, and free (scrap) design, very different from our European standard water wheels and much more like a turbine. Take a look, especially if you want a better (more power/flow) result. Thanks for the video.
PS Found the video creator....his name is Angry Ram
He is also there as Marty T
Your water wheel is an undershot design (I'm guessing for simplicity of design/manufacture). If you could come up with an overshot design you'd get a big increase in efficiency and power (mechanical power from the wheel that is). The hard part would be making that design portable and easily set up, of course...but I'm sure YOU could do it 🙂
That original series was how I discovered your channel in the first place .
They do sell step up boost buck converters. I have a 60w that boost12v-60v up to 60v-120v. I have a 58v charger that I boost to 120v connected to a solar charger that charges a E-Trike.
I have been a supporter since your original series on SMPS, and I have been waiting and waiting for the conclusion as I would like to design a bipolar SMPS to produce + and - 15V from a +12V source. Thank you for the great videos.
Fantastic, a true Post Apocalyptic Inventor! Might I suggest making a portable 'sluice' of about 1-2 m to feed upstream water into the wheel. You might be less likely to get your feet wet!
You provided a very interesting demonstration of the basic principles of a boost converter. Vielen dank!
Really loved this video! it's not often i get hooked for 30 minutes straight. thank you!
My appreciation of your work, channel, and overarching project just continues to grow. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and just as importantly your perspective.
🙏
We took electronics, with Mister Musa. Best choice of my life. As far as I know, his first name was Mister. A really funny, serious guy.
Can't remember when I subbed, years ago ! Love the channel.
The SMPS tutorial is awesome and I love the detail you went into in it and this seems like a great addition to it. I think it's kool to mix it up between the junkyard restoration and build videos to keep the channel from feeling stagnate. But whatever you do, I along with many others will be here to watch it. Thanks for sharing you work with us!
Thank you. You channel is very inspiring. We need to get you off grid and self sustained.
Love the instructional content and would enjoy seeing more. (But to be honest I enjoy all of your content, so whatever you're going to post I'll watch.)
Thanks for this video. Power supplies are such a broad topic, and such a common source of problems when repairing old electronics that learning about them is sort of inevitable!
I habvhave been watching your videos for many years now. Love it!!!
Really nice explanation and demonstration of the boost converter!
Nowadays when you can buy a off the shelf buck boost converter that is capable of 30v2a for $0.5 there's absolutely no reason to make your own but it's still a great video to learn how they works
Nice to know how when you're trying to build something integrated on a board. Sometimes space requirements do not allow for wires going all over
@@OtherDalfite I just followed the example schematic without knowing what I'm doing ... Idk if it'll work is my first time so chances r high that it won't
Thank you so much! For off grid (due to inefficiencies converters) using 110-250v AC appliances that are then stepped down back to DC such as laptops, your circuits make it easy to go from 12/24/48 v systems without having to use massively expensive inverters.
I'm about to look at the smps series I can't remember if I've watched before.
Inverters have some advantages though- built in battery over discharge protection for instance. If there is a plan to use 12V car battery. I have 150VA cheap inverter and I connected output plug to 310V DC bypassing squerwave inverter part- laptop and mobile phone 230V AC chargers accept it without complaints. (maybe some don't) At idle it draws about 4W. Buck converters are more versatile though- can work from anything from car 12V and powertool 20V to truck 24V.
Thanks, you have the best channel on all of RUclips
Love the cat background on your phone 😀 So cool that one can charge their devices from a creek.
Very well explained in laymans language thanks Gerof.
GREAT video! I can't count the number of times your project match exactly what I'm doing at the time. This has happened at least 15-20 times since I started watching. I'm dealing with charging 20v from a car too & all the common options on Amazon or Ebay are too expensive (IMO) or they output too little current for my laptop to initiate the charging cycle (it needs 11.5A at full current & seems to require a minimum of 3.25A to even start charging while the screen is closed - it won't charge w/ that little current while running & screen is on).
Anyway, thank you so much for these video's and this channel, I have learned a lot watching this channel and you have cleared up a lot of things on which I was confused. I also love seeing different parts of Germany & would really like to get back over there some time and see things from my more experienced (older - I was a kid when last there) perspective.
Yes, exactly: I watch electronics videos and I know nothing about, expecting to get some knowledge out of it sometimes . . .
But I'ld love to stumble upon videos that'll start from the mowest level.
Thank you! This is a wonderful, practical, clearly presented set of concepts. I'd definitely love to see more of this style of video.
Great work 👍🏼 I’ve always found it ironic that we are swimming in electronic devices but not one ever teaches you how they work or how to fix them
That's 'cos they don't want you to know or fix them. No money for the middle men when selling components, they'd actually have to find a job.
I want to point out many 12v car stuff can have a working voltages from 9v to 24v or greater, you just have to check the label and spec sheets.
For an example I bought some Usb a and usb c charger that works up to 24v. I opted to get 24v 3.5a power supplies to add to my recliners so that I could charge my laptop while there. These chargers also supply PD which will convert the voltage up to what it needs to charge a usb c laptop.
I not only used the same chargers on power supplies. I also used them with my tool batteries. I bought the adapters for tools and then the chargers and opened them up and wired and glued them together. The cost of the parts and my time was still cheaper and better than what they have on the market for those tool batteries.
I am sure that if I had a better source for these types of parts and maybe knew how to use a 3d printer I could have printed custom made ones for a dirt cheap price. In the end I am happy for what they are.
Great video. Nice demo on how to raise voltage with just the inductance, diode and capacitor.
0:33 Electrolytic capacitors encased in mosfet heatsinks.
Looks like planned obsolescence to me :D
Not sure if anyone has mentioned this, but many laptops (that take 18-20V) will actually run on 12V (or 12~15V) just fine, even if you remove the battery. The only problem is that the battery cannot charge due to the low voltage.
In fact I have a shoddily put together adapter that lets me plug my laptop into my car using a direct connection. It rarely gets used now, but when I traveled more, I used it often and it worked well (keeping in mind the no-charging limitation).
I have designed boost converters for military, aerospace, and medical. They are the easiest converter to design.
youtube recommmended this because I was looking for reviews of cheap converters few weeks ago.. While I don't like school, I think understoond voltage boosting just by books/blackboard on the topic of transistor-amplifiers. I suggest you discuss teach the difference of MPPT vs converters. I think many will find interest and i've seen many youtubers misunderstand it.
Nice to see the SMPS series revived. Thanks for this! I'm at a place where I'm actually starting to learn electronics, so this was at a good level for me.
I looked up the LT1070. It's not a cheap part, but maybe I can find some. I'm curious what you scrapped to find these originally.
There are many similiar ICs, also at much lower prices or for lower input voltages. Check for instance the LM2577 for step-up or the LM2596 for step-down.
Great example with the Iron Core Transformer!
Realy enjoyed the video, have used these devices but never looked into the operation. Thanks for link to smps tutorial 4.
Ah, I understand it all now! It's magic. Thank you my magician friend.
Great video my friend!
Is it true that the core of the output filtering stage of an ATX power supply is not plain ferrite like all the other transformers and inductors you usually see?
Keep them coming! I would love to see a bigger water wheel and maybe spend a bit more time damming the river to direct the flow to get it really going!
If you are referring to toroidal inductors in the output filter, then no, they most definitely are not ferrite.
By far the most common material for such inductor cores is "powdered iron." It is quite literally tiny particles of iron alloy held together with an organic binder. This means there is a large "distributed" air gap. Powdered iron cores can be made with a wide range of permeabilities by varying to proportion of iron particles. An initial permeability of 75 is very popular for power applications at moderate frequency. In comparison, the permeability of power ferrites is typically around 2500 to 3000.
There are a couple of higher performance materials as alternatives to powdered iron. One is "sendust." Magnetics Inc's "Kool Mu" cores are made of this. The losses are considerably lower than powdered iron but they are more expensive. Molybdenum permalloy powder is even better but it has become extremely expensive.
toroid painted yellow with one white face - Micrometals type 26 powdered iron with permeability of 75 or a copy/counterfeit
toroid painted pale green with one blue face - Micrometals type 52 powdered iron with permeability of 75 or a copy/counterfeit; a little more expensive than type 26 but with some useful improvements in performance
toroid painted black - _possibly_ a Kool Mu core
@@d614gakadoug9 Ok so his converter with that toroid is probably not very efficient then.
It would be more useful as an output filtering inductor between the first and second stage output capacitors right?
I know in the typical ATX PSU circuit that toroid is before any capacitance acting more like a buck converter to keep currents and transients in check across all rails at the same time. Then the open ended inductors give the second stage filtering. Do you have any info or general rules of thumb about that kind of circuitry?
@@SuperBrainAK
Powder cores can yield good efficiency if you know what you are doing.
There are many tradeoffs that have to be considered in power inductor design. Ferrite core losses are significantly lower than those of powder cores but the latter have some other advantages. Ferrite is a very poor heat conductor, so heat due to winding loss is a major concern. Ferrite saturation is very "hard" or abrupt with regard to magnetizing force whereas powder material saturation is much "softer." A bobbin or "former" as used with ferrite cores is usually much easier to wind but winding loses can be greater if multiple layers of wire or foil are required.
I've used powdered iron cores, mostly Micrometals type 52, for the inductors in industrial buck converters where good performance was very important. I've used them for the output inductors in mains-operated SMPS from 150 W to 1 kW where the ripple current was 200 kHz. I have used moly permalloy powder cores, too, notably where a client wanted to increase the power from an already hard-pushed buck converter originally using a powdered iron core. I've used Magnetics Inc's Kool Mu for the inductor for a 1200 W universal input active power factor correction stage (about 95% or better efficiency; an active PF stage is a boost converter that makes the instantaneous input current directly proportional to the instantaneous input voltage and inversely proportional to the average input voltage). I've also used Micrometals type 75 for the inductor in a buck type converter photovoltatic-input MPP "tracker" charger for military lithium ion batteries, where efficiency was very important.
An ATX power supply IS essentially a buck converter with a transformer to get the voltage down to something manageable before it is applied to the buck inductor. The inductor is one of the two energy storage devices required in a switcher. The output capacitors are the other. While these are often called "filters," and that isn't wrong, their primary role is energy storage and delivery.
The small open-path inductors are there "just" for high-frequency filtering in conjunction with addtional capacitors. The core is often ferrite but with what amounts to a huge air gap between the ends. I can't say there are any "rules of thumb" there. Losses are almost entirely DC resistive losses in the winding since those inductors are subjected to very little ripple current.
@@d614gakadoug9 Thank you! Such an awesome info dump! Your fountain of knowledge is much appreciated.
I'm pretty sure I understood all that. Ferrite saturating abruptly versus iron, in comparison, being gradual. Active PFC I know well just from "reading" power supply circuit boards. It is neat that at it's core it is just a boost converter but it does not operate at a constant rate, it has to constantly change it's duty cycle in proportion with the mains 60Hz sinewave rectified to DC but minimally filtered.
I just want to make sure you are aware of the projects I've done and made videos about. I am always talking about DC-DC modules, RuiDeng digital lab supplies and myriads of different USB chargers. Probably my coolest DC-DC project has been my "3000W Boost Converter" taking 2 of those super cheap converters and completely rebuilding them with 2 stage (working in unison so no frequency doubling, yet) to properly handle more power.
I want to thank you again for your time and sharing your knowledge with me and everyone reading! 🧡
Hey! Glad to see some more in-depth experimentation. I do have a few ideas/questions.. I typically use LM2596 Boost and XL6009/LM2577 prefab modules for things like this (IE 14V supply for LED backlight[conversion] driver in a 9V/5V only LCD screen) but i've been having problems doing it without adding 0.15uF caps to get rid of tiny spikes from the oscillator. one of my biggest peeves is TO220-style LED drivers. I've only ever found a regulator for under-voltage sources, but none for over-voltage.. Something super simple to put in series with an LED (or LED digit Vcc) that would work anywhere between 2v and 20v. Seems too much to ask these days.
If you have a few sources of low voltage and power, could you merge them together? For example, some small salvaged solar panels of different makes, the water wheel and maybe a bicycle. Just to capture everything you can get a hold of and centralize it to, say, a single 12 V battery or battery bank.
I dont know how, but would think you could just connect them all in series.
@@duckhunter8387I think this should be possible, just have to be sure to not loop it back on itself and create a dead end
Obwohl alles in Englisch schaue ich mir ihre Videos immer wieder gerne an. Als gelernter Elektriker bastle ich selber gerne. 😮
I find all of your videos educational.
True the educational system has failed me at a young age and am 37 years now I have always love electrical engineering but had no information on how to learn it back then but as the internet came I was happy to find tons of information that I downloaded and books I study now I am a great engineer I spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on semiconductors teaching my self and learning how to created multivibrator and using op amp to as oscillator and creating spwm and inverter signal for half bridge inverter and learn how to use pwm and spwm together for full bridge inverter and adding dead time was the hardest but I learn how to now am progressing to writing code for my digital signal buck converter and buck boost converter and boost converter solar mppt is easier now thanks to the internet I save my self millions of Dallas to go to another country university
Nice video. That’s how you teach. Theory and practical use. Keep up the good work.
sir, thanks for sharing. please forgive my ignorance. i want to know why you used 2 of the IC instead of one as in the circuit diagram. i will like to build my own. also i will like to know how you tied it all together. again, thanks
I love your videos.
a big hug from Portugal😊
What a great tutorial! Very interesting
What about adding some adjustable baffles to your new water wheel to capture and focus the water flow across the generator?
As a point of interest, a gentleman in New Zealand (@MartyT) has an off grid property that is partially powered by a hydro electric turbine made from a washing machine. You might find his videos useful in your experiments.
Efficiency is usually touted as the big advantage but it is more complicated than that
I think a quick diagramme with a few words would go a long way to deepen the understanding of the setups as the setup itself cannot easily be recognised on the screen
I think this would have been especially helpful around the 10 minute mark. That circuit would be excellent to layout on a simple diagram overlay
I needed to build several external regulators for a Delco 21si alternator. To produce 29v or 58v DC, probably also using external 3phase rectifiers . Being the 12v alternator diodes are rated higher than 14v I have seen over 50v from a alternator, but this is not constant. And I want to use a large heatsink. With about 1000 v diodes, capable of about 200 amps being the alternator is 130 and 150 amp and do not want to run it at its peak rating. I have a few scr's and may look for diodes to fit the heatsinks, to re use them. I have diodes from a welder maybe I will look for more like this. If the ratings are suitable.. wind turbine rectifiers could work . With two parallel, I'd use a 3mm x 12mm copper bus bar to parallel everything, with a m5 bolt connection the 100 amp 1kv rating should work. The use of a MOSFET ideal diode would be nice. The crazy frequency they need to run at could be a issue. It's possible to see 200kHz the alternator spinning 3k rpm at its slowest And nearly 10k peak, magnets are passing poles fast. Much more the 50-60 Hz!
Explain snubbers in next video please. I know quite a bit about electronics but still O learn a lot of things from your channel. Thanks for the quality content there's not much on social media nowadays.
nice job. how about micro controller based converter.
What about the SEPIC converter topology. It can boost-buck and is extremely easy to make. You just need to modify your boost converter by adding additional diode and coil.
Ops my bad, not diode but capacitor.
Hi there everyone
Another great episode
Thank you
For your next water wheel, please try a vehicle alternator
Love watching your content thank you
Nice, and useful like always...so, do you can take some 120 amp. car alternator and use here like generator?