Seems like that drive belt for the planer should have a tensioner pulley on it to take up the slack, I hope that the design wasn’t to just let the belt flop around like that. That fence has kind of a light weight design to it, I have a Delta DJ 6 like yours and that’s a solid machine, especially the fence on it, but like you said, you get what you pay for. All in all, a nice Christmas present, which reminds me, Merry Christmas to everyone and hope you all enjoy the New Year!
To me accuracy is the most important thing. Some cheaper machines are not even reasonable accurate, which does make a machine completely worthless. I bought a mini skill table saw because people recommended it for the accuracy that you get for what you have to pay for it. And I am very pleased with how well it saws. But the ergonomics is a bit less, so now I am in the process of building a mobile cabinet for it. But indeed it saws with a very reasonable and repeatable accuracy. I only use it for some smaller DIY projects, but it is nice to be able to get a repeatable accuracy. At least it is good enough for making cabinet doors and such. And it seems that the platform from your machine is good enough for some tweaking. Like you said, change the knobs and such. You might even change the belt drive that they have put in the machine, or add a tensioner pulley as what others have suggested. Or some sort of belt guide from teflon, as it is often used for chain drives. There seems to be a bracket with room for such a belt guide or tensioner. Anyway, merry Christmas to you and your family, enjoy the machine, it looks like it is a good purchase 👍
I have a Jet JPP-12HH and the planer has always given me fits from boards that stop planing halfway through to getting some replacement parts that seem to always be backordered. I've made numerous adjustments to the infeed and outfeed rollers, replaced the rubber roller and still waiting over a year for the large sprocket wheel to ship after the chain tensioning sprocket came loose and the chain destroyed the nylon sprocket wheel. Jet has mislabeled the part I need and I keep getting the wrong sprocket wheel designed for the straight knife version of this machine, which won't fit. So, I'm done with the planer function. I think I'll keep it though for the jointer function only since a 12" helical jointer would cost more than what I'd get when selling my machine. I do not recommend buying this because of the planer function. When working, the feed rate is only 12 feet/min, which is very slow even compared to my temporary $800 Rikon 13" lunch box planer with a helical type head.
Thank you for the video. I checked the prices for this machine and the Hammer 16'' and they come out to about same price if I wanted to write a check for it. Did you investigate the Hammer jointer/planner? Can you say why you did not choose the Hammer? Thanks!
I think I paid about $2k less for the Jet. Free shipping was a $600 savings. I almost bought the Hammer 12 inch. A3 31. Reviews on RUclips indicated almost no difference in performance.
Love your channel, been watching for a long time. Frank what you were feeling on the board was that caused by the starts and stops you made as you feed the board in? I am not a wood worker but I do like learning things from people like you.
Hi Frank, nice machine mate, I always use some furniture polish on the deck of mine so I get a nice smooth movement through. Just saw the bit with the belt, if that isn't bad enough did you see the giant PLASTIC gear at the rear right Frank?
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 . Oh good, looked like that white plastic, or nylon on here, worth checking. I was interested to see that Helical cutter, I had been thinking of fitting one, but now I'm not so sure it makes that much difference , damn sight easier to change the blades though. Bob
Probably the biggest benefit of the helical head is the carbide inserts. Seems I get very small nicks in my big planer's knives on a regular basis, leaving little ridges on the workpieces. Been considering upgrading that 20 inch head to a helical head, but it's $$$ and a big job to change it out.
Frank, I have a 6 foot 12 inch Oliver jointer, and it has a pork chop on it. I woodwork every day (it's my job) and you're going to want to get rid of that blade guard. That guard will keep you from getting a clean cut, because it prevents you from pushing down on the board over the cutterhead, and it will force you to stop mid-cut. If you can put a pork chop on it, you're going to need it. Also, how many hp is it? Mine is a 3 hp, and I can take a 3/4" bite in one pass on it. I never have done that, probably never will.
It's 3 HP. I do like the pork chop style, and you are correct about the even feed and pressure issue. I've been using it some this past week helping my son build a bookcase. Despite the necessary awkward hand movements, the initial results are looking very good. I may build a new pivoting guard...I have the tools to do that...
I don't like that cutter guard, it stops you from, as you said, you can't continuously feed piece with consistence down pressure. Would prefer the swing guard.
this machine is the worst garbage that I ever had, spend your money elsewhere, even more, the tables get out of alignment every other week and its nightmare to adjust, never straight plane, even cast iron tables are sagging and twisted 1st thing you need to do is to machine the surfaces which are supposed to be flat in the 1st place, terrible terrible design, RUN !!!
Хобби
Nice machine. Love watching your videos
It's always a good episode when you have Brutus and Butchie on !
Seems like that drive belt for the planer should have a tensioner pulley on it to take up the slack, I hope that the design wasn’t to just let the belt flop around like that. That fence has kind of a light weight design to it, I have a Delta DJ 6 like yours and that’s a solid machine, especially the fence on it, but like you said, you get what you pay for. All in all, a nice Christmas present, which reminds me, Merry Christmas to everyone and hope you all enjoy the New Year!
To me accuracy is the most important thing. Some cheaper machines are not even reasonable accurate, which does make a machine completely worthless. I bought a mini skill table saw because people recommended it for the accuracy that you get for what you have to pay for it. And I am very pleased with how well it saws. But the ergonomics is a bit less, so now I am in the process of building a mobile cabinet for it. But indeed it saws with a very reasonable and repeatable accuracy. I only use it for some smaller DIY projects, but it is nice to be able to get a repeatable accuracy. At least it is good enough for making cabinet doors and such.
And it seems that the platform from your machine is good enough for some tweaking. Like you said, change the knobs and such. You might even change the belt drive that they have put in the machine, or add a tensioner pulley as what others have suggested. Or some sort of belt guide from teflon, as it is often used for chain drives. There seems to be a bracket with room for such a belt guide or tensioner. Anyway, merry Christmas to you and your family, enjoy the machine, it looks like it is a good purchase 👍
It looks like a nice machine.
I have a Jet JPP-12HH and the planer has always given me fits from boards that stop planing halfway through to getting some replacement parts that seem to always be backordered. I've made numerous adjustments to the infeed and outfeed rollers, replaced the rubber roller and still waiting over a year for the large sprocket wheel to ship after the chain tensioning sprocket came loose and the chain destroyed the nylon sprocket wheel. Jet has mislabeled the part I need and I keep getting the wrong sprocket wheel designed for the straight knife version of this machine, which won't fit. So, I'm done with the planer function. I think I'll keep it though for the jointer function only since a 12" helical jointer would cost more than what I'd get when selling my machine. I do not recommend buying this because of the planer function. When working, the feed rate is only 12 feet/min, which is very slow even compared to my temporary $800 Rikon 13" lunch box planer with a helical type head.
I only use it as a Jointer as I have a 20 inch planer. Good to know about these potential issues, though.
Thank you for the video. I checked the prices for this machine and the Hammer 16'' and they come out to about same price if I wanted to write a check for it. Did you investigate the Hammer jointer/planner? Can you say why you did not choose the Hammer? Thanks!
I think I paid about $2k less for the Jet. Free shipping was a $600 savings. I almost bought the Hammer 12 inch. A3 31. Reviews on RUclips indicated almost no difference in performance.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 Jet is garbage, had it for 3 yrs, buy Hammer
Love your channel, been watching for a long time. Frank what you were feeling on the board was that caused by the starts and stops you made as you feed the board in? I am not a wood worker but I do like learning things from people like you.
yes. inconsistent feeding produces small variations in the surface finish.
31:02 That belt looks like one of those string shooter toys
Thank thee 🙂
Hi Frank, nice machine mate, I always use some furniture polish on the deck of mine so I get a nice smooth movement through. Just saw the bit with the belt, if that isn't bad enough did you see the giant PLASTIC gear at the rear right Frank?
Is that a plastic gear or a painted metal one, it sort of looks like the same color as the cabinet.
It's a metal gear.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 . Oh good, looked like that white plastic, or nylon on here, worth checking. I was interested to see that Helical cutter, I had been thinking of fitting one, but now I'm not so sure it makes that much difference , damn sight easier to change the blades though. Bob
Probably the biggest benefit of the helical head is the carbide inserts. Seems I get very small nicks in my big planer's knives on a regular basis, leaving little ridges on the workpieces. Been considering upgrading that 20 inch head to a helical head, but it's $$$ and a big job to change it out.
Frank, I have a 6 foot 12 inch Oliver jointer, and it has a pork chop on it. I woodwork every day (it's my job) and you're going to want to get rid of that blade guard. That guard will keep you from getting a clean cut, because it prevents you from pushing down on the board over the cutterhead, and it will force you to stop mid-cut. If you can put a pork chop on it, you're going to need it. Also, how many hp is it? Mine is a 3 hp, and I can take a 3/4" bite in one pass on it. I never have done that, probably never will.
It's 3 HP. I do like the pork chop style, and you are correct about the even feed and pressure issue. I've been using it some this past week helping my son build a bookcase. Despite the necessary awkward hand movements, the initial results are looking very good. I may build a new pivoting guard...I have the tools to do that...
I don't like that cutter guard, it stops you from, as you said, you can't continuously feed piece with consistence down pressure. Would prefer the swing guard.
For the money they charge, lot of poor designs!!!!
this machine is the worst garbage that I ever had, spend your money elsewhere, even more, the tables get out of alignment every other week and its nightmare to adjust, never straight plane, even cast iron tables are sagging and twisted 1st thing you need to do is to machine the surfaces which are supposed to be flat in the 1st place, terrible terrible design, RUN !!!
Seems to be working for me. Table alignment is nearly perfect. Maybe you got a lemon?