Frank, one thing I noticed when you had the belts engaged and running, was that the pin that runs through the idler pulley is spinning. I would think you would want that to be stationary, or eventually it will wear out the hole it runs through. With just a cotter pin retaining it, it may wear through the cotter pin and the pin could work it's way out. Just my observation. The fix might be to weld a tab to the idler shaft and bolt it to the tensioner arm. Good video, though. Keep up the good work.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048The best way l found to keep a bolt-shaft from spinning, is to get a junk socket that corresponds to the bolt head cut a slice of said socket, thickness matching bolt head height. Now snug bolt in position, place socket slice over bolt head and weld outside diameter of socket. Now finish with castle nut and cotter pin
I love your work you do a great job just FYI you can’t bend a v belt backwards it will always break if your going to do that get double sided v belt it can take the stress
Fun fact about belts. Even when belts have same part number they have different lengths. When running multi belt setup you not only have to match part numbers there are matching numbers that you match the size.
The dual belt set up is for redundancy, not power transfer. I recognize that one belt will take most of the load if they are not matched. That's OK, and pretty much insures they will fail one at a time, leaving the second belt to get me home. So, in this special case, matched belts are not needed. One belt is plenty for power transfer.
I stalled the machine with the blade and that's when it happened, the belt shredded. Since the belts aren't "matched" one belt carries most of the load. I use two belts for redundancy, not for power transfer. One belt is enough for power transfer, the second belt is for just this situation.
That shift spinning in the bracket is NO BUENO - you need to weld a washer with a flat ground on the outside so it's D-shaped to the end of the shaft, then weld a piece of square keystock to the bracket to keep that shaft from spinning in the mild steel Idler holder and woggling out the holes kiddo
Your best builds, IMO are. The grader, forklift, and the yard cart 6x4.
Just found your channel and subscribed your builds are on a another level! Excellent work
Same here, excellent work
Spare belt half installed greatly reduces MTTR. Sharp thinking...
I love all your super builds!!! I have been here for all these builds. Not only beautiful but useful....the tractors..lol
Thank you very much!
Frank, one thing I noticed when you had the belts engaged and running, was that the pin that runs through the idler pulley is spinning. I would think you would want that to be stationary, or eventually it will wear out the hole it runs through. With just a cotter pin retaining it, it may wear through the cotter pin and the pin could work it's way out. Just my observation. The fix might be to weld a tab to the idler shaft and bolt it to the tensioner arm.
Good video, though. Keep up the good work.
It did spin some, an yes, that's not good. Due mostly to newly lubricated needle bearings in the pulley. It stopped after a couple minutes.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 Maybe use a bolt so you can pinch the inner race.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048The best way l found to keep a bolt-shaft from spinning, is to get a junk socket that corresponds to the bolt head cut a slice of said socket, thickness matching bolt head height. Now snug bolt in position, place socket slice over bolt head and weld outside diameter of socket. Now finish with castle nut and cotter pin
I love your work you do a great job just FYI you can’t bend a v belt backwards it will always break if your going to do that get double sided v belt it can take the stress
Fun fact about belts. Even when belts have same part number they have different lengths. When running multi belt setup you not only have to match part numbers there are matching numbers that you match the size.
Yes. That's more important in some applications than in others.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 Yeah it doestn matter for single belt setups. I mean I get its a "toy" not a "tool"
The dual belt set up is for redundancy, not power transfer. I recognize that one belt will take most of the load if they are not matched. That's OK, and pretty much insures they will fail one at a time, leaving the second belt to get me home. So, in this special case, matched belts are not needed. One belt is plenty for power transfer.
Why do you think the belt broke? Can we see the failed one?
I stalled the machine with the blade and that's when it happened, the belt shredded. Since the belts aren't "matched" one belt carries most of the load. I use two belts for redundancy, not for power transfer. One belt is enough for power transfer, the second belt is for just this situation.
Is the top tensioner bracket cracked? It looked that way on camera. (At the bottom of the lever next to the frame.)
no, just a crappy weld. It's two pieces welded together.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 okay. I enjoy watching you and your projects. Keep it up.
That shift spinning in the bracket is NO BUENO - you need to weld a washer with a flat ground on the outside so it's D-shaped to the end of the shaft, then weld a piece of square keystock to the bracket to keep that shaft from spinning in the mild steel Idler holder and woggling out the holes kiddo
Yes, I agree. I noticed that, too.
sure looks like that battery terminal is almost touching that hold down bracket.
That's the negative terminal. Ground. So no issue.
Could you have used a chain ,instead of a belt ..
A lot more noise at those speeds. Plus lubrication issues.