How difficult can it be to get this tractor running again after 10 years of storage? Here's the step by step process to investigate a non-running lawn tractor.
I like nice easy fixes. The only thing I would do is change the oil and filter and also the air filter. I like to have a fresh start point for maintenance and oil will pick up moisture over time and may not be the best it can be.
I have the PGT9000 Commercial version (28hp). I found the automatic choke solenoid would stick keeping the motor from starting easily. Just takes a bit of lubrication and it will start better.
I owned a slightly smaller version of that mower for about 10 years the YT 3000. On my mower the gas tank was where the battery is located on yours,and the battery is where the gas tank is. After 10 years of mowing, I found several shortcomings: 1. the welding on the mower deck was pretty bad. I made numerous repairs to mine for brackets. The spindles were really cheap castings too in the more didn’t tolerate a lot of abuse if you have a lot of rocks or heavy sticks or roots in your yard 2. The YT3000 had a single cylinder Briggs engine. The compression release on the engine cam failed eventually. although I didn’t realize it at the time it became almost impossible to start eventually. this is what caused me to sell at the end of my driveway for a fraction of what I paid for it. 3. Steering mechanism on that mower is sloppy and cheap. There’s a ton of play in the steering wheel and the mechanisms for attaching and lining the front tires easily and become really sloppy. 4. I had a bagging attachment on mine, and I discovered much to my horror that if the bagging attachment was full of wet grass, and you were on any kind of positive slope, you could wheelie the mower. at one point, I actually stood it up and it would’ve rolled over on top of me if it were not for the full bags of grass on the back. if you buy this mower, I would add some weight to the front end if you’re gonna cut on any kind of slope with a bagging attachement or pull a trailer. 4. Last point I was never happy with the height adjustment on the deck. I have a really rough lawn and I couldn’t use anything but the two highest deck settings without scalping. I don’t know how you could cut grass using the lowest unless you were mowing the green on a golf course, I never found an easy way to rectify this problem. Taller tires might work, but they’re hard to find and very expensive. All these complaints aside, I did cut the lawn successfully for almost 12 years before I decided to get rid of the mower. Unlike a lot of folks I never had any problem with the hydrostatic transmission on my mower. my earlier complaints about towing aside, I was able to move a lot of weight with this mower without any problems. It was good for hauling mulch, firewood, and even modest loads of dirt around the yard. Good luck with your purchase.
Frank, I enjoyed the video just a few little things to finish that one up like some oil filter oil change air filter maybe blow the thing off and it is a good idea to pull the blower housing just to make sure that there wouldn’t be any mice nest or dirt Dobber or wasp nest or anything that may be in there that might prevent the cooling fans from cooling the engine Just to FYI and I agree with you don’t need a 24 horse engine to cut grass but it is a selling point probably for them Bolans used to make an old 1050 that was with a 12 horse engine on it and of course it was cast-iron but it was a workhorse and it would cut grass like nobody’s business. Keep up the good work we look forward to seeing more videos as you get the chance.
Frank, I don't understand, you have great knowledge in engineering and woodworking you put out great videos, I have followed you for a long time, I don't know why your Scriber numbers are as low as they are, people are not hearing about your channel, we need to change that, you should have subscribers in the hundred of thousands just keep plugging away, people will hear about you
Value cover is a good idea keeps threads clean and ready for air hose. No dirt inside or mud Dober building a nest in the stem. Nice. My theory, had used it - now owner hired out. So it was put away properly.
The hard start when cold may mean you need a choke adjustment. I have the same tractor and the choke linkage tends to slip out of adjustment. Set the parking brake, then if you stand by the rf tire and with your rt hand, feel under the carb for the linkage going straight up. Push it up while you you turn the key and see if it will start cold. If it does, you need to adjust the linkage, but good luck getting it to stay in adjustment!
I like nice easy fixes. The only thing I would do is change the oil and filter and also the air filter. I like to have a fresh start point for maintenance and oil will pick up moisture over time and may not be the best it can be.
Good ole channellocks they are made in Meadville PA. About 14 miles from where I live. My brother in law works there.
I have the PGT9000 Commercial version (28hp). I found the automatic choke solenoid would stick keeping the motor from starting easily. Just takes a bit of lubrication and it will start better.
I owned a slightly smaller version of that mower for about 10 years the YT 3000. On my mower the gas tank was where the battery is located on yours,and the battery is where the gas tank is. After 10 years of mowing, I found several shortcomings:
1. the welding on the mower deck was pretty bad. I made numerous repairs to mine for brackets. The spindles were really cheap castings too in the more didn’t tolerate a lot of abuse if you have a lot of rocks or heavy sticks or roots in your yard
2. The YT3000 had a single cylinder Briggs engine. The compression release on the engine cam failed eventually. although I didn’t realize it at the time it became almost impossible to start eventually. this is what caused me to sell at the end of my driveway for a fraction of what I paid for it.
3. Steering mechanism on that mower is sloppy and cheap. There’s a ton of play in the steering wheel and the mechanisms for attaching and lining the front tires easily and become really sloppy.
4. I had a bagging attachment on mine, and I discovered much to my horror that if the bagging attachment was full of wet grass, and you were on any kind of positive slope, you could wheelie the mower. at one point, I actually stood it up and it would’ve rolled over on top of me if it were not for the full bags of grass on the back. if you buy this mower, I would add some weight to the front end if you’re gonna cut on any kind of slope with a bagging attachement or pull a trailer.
4. Last point I was never happy with the height adjustment on the deck. I have a really rough lawn and I couldn’t use anything but the two highest deck settings without scalping. I don’t know how you could cut grass using the lowest unless you were mowing the green on a golf course, I never found an easy way to rectify this problem. Taller tires might work, but they’re hard to find and very expensive.
All these complaints aside, I did cut the lawn successfully for almost 12 years before I decided to get rid of the mower. Unlike a lot of folks I never had any problem with the hydrostatic transmission on my mower. my earlier complaints about towing aside, I was able to move a lot of weight with this mower without any problems. It was good for hauling mulch, firewood, and even modest loads of dirt around the yard.
Good luck with your purchase.
Frank, I enjoyed the video just a few little things to finish that one up like some oil filter oil change air filter maybe blow the thing off and it is a good idea to pull the blower housing just to make sure that there wouldn’t be any mice nest or dirt Dobber or wasp nest or anything that may be in there that might prevent the cooling fans from cooling the engine Just to FYI and I agree with you don’t need a 24 horse engine to cut grass but it is a selling point probably for them Bolans used to make an old 1050 that was with a 12 horse engine on it and of course it was cast-iron but it was a workhorse and it would cut grass like nobody’s business. Keep up the good work we look forward to seeing more videos as you get the chance.
Frank, I don't understand, you have great knowledge in engineering and woodworking you put out great videos, I have followed you for a long time, I don't know why your Scriber numbers are as low as they are, people are not hearing about your channel, we need to change that, you should have subscribers in the hundred of thousands just keep plugging away, people will hear about you
Should be able to just set the park brake, than it should crank, without being in the seat.
Excellent cheers 🥂 😊
Value cover is a good idea keeps threads clean and ready for air hose. No dirt inside or mud Dober building a nest in the stem. Nice. My theory, had used it - now owner hired out. So it was put away properly.
Did you pull the free wheel rod on the back of the mower?
The hard start when cold may mean you need a choke adjustment. I have the same tractor and the choke linkage tends to slip out of adjustment. Set the parking brake, then if you stand by the rf tire and with your rt hand, feel under the carb for the linkage going straight up. Push it up while you you turn the key and see if it will start cold. If it does, you need to adjust the linkage, but good luck getting it to stay in adjustment!
I had the same mower and they can handle some abuse
A sight gage below the front of the seat.
Saw that later.
$600-800 in my area.