Multi Color Simplify3D Tutorial
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- Multiple nozzles? We don't need no multiple nozzles! Lets dive right into S3D's multi-process and learn how to print multi color prints with a single nozzle!
Disclaimer: Your printer must have at least one nozzle for this to work......
Simplify 3D for education: goo.gl/frHEju
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Bioshock Logo: www.thingiverse.com/thing:346798
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Thanks for watching! 
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Haven't done a 2 color print in a while, came back a second time a year later. Awesome video. Still perfectly relevant in today's s3d version.
I love Simplify3D, totally changed 3D printing for me.....awesome tutorial!
Thank you - exactly what I was looking for, and I was actually printing a logo, so when I saw your Bioshock sample, I was like - perfect tutorial
Simply Stunning, great vid. Seems you stopped making vids now. A great loss to us all as you do have a great approach and pace with all you previous vid. Many Thks.
Well done clear and straight to the point worked like a dream
Thanks to you, I FINALLY accomplished a 2-color print, after 2 failed attempts with Cura (and a ton of wasted filament...)
very helpful tutorial...i kinda had an idea it worked this way but you removed all doubts. two thumbs up!
Thanks!
Awesome clip and exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for posting!
Great video. I am excited now to give it a try. It sure beats the method I was doing before. A little extra color really makes things pop. I especially like knowing how to use S3D a bit better too.
Very good tutorial! Thanks
Excellent Vid. Thank you for taking the time.
Thank you for explaining this so well, you have made life a little easier.
Excellent Video. Thank you so much for your hard work making this video
Nice tutorial Shane! Thanks a lot... now i have to figure it for Cura...
I have been trying to figure this out for months, then I found your video and did it in 15 minutes.. you Sir, are a genius
=]
Glad it helped!
Really awesome video mate. Thank you. 🤟🏻✌🏻
Awesome video! Thanks! Subbed!!
HELPED A LOT THANKS
ABSOLUTE ROCK-STAR!! Thanks
Question, can't you just put a pause command at the end of each process instead of creating a separate file for each process??
Great video love to have simply 3d
Thanks Shane, that was really useful. Cheers, JAYTEE
Still super helpful!
An excellent video.
Excellent video 😊😊😊😊📸
If you click on the left or right of the slider (not the arrows) the height will change by 0.1mm instead of the 1mm by using the arrows
GREAT IDEA!
Paw patrol, paw patrol, whenever you're in trouble... Sorry, my daughter loves that show lol
Can these methods be done using a raft? You see, my mini printer doesn't have a glass bed, so I use blue painter's tape. The tape ends up sticking to the back of the print when printed directly on the tape. How or would this work with a raft?
Thanks a lot sir. Is there ironing option in simplyfy3d.
Thank a lot very helpful !!!
Very good thanks 😉
do you have a video using multi color with 3 extruders and a single nozzle ? same in 3 processes but looking for the tool change script
Does this work with a raft? I use a raft for PC prints but this ads height to the first process right?
Excellent tutorial. Although for some reason the Tools > Variable Settings Wizard didn't work (wouldn't go high or low enough), it was easy enough to set the heights on the Advanced tab. For Paw Patrol, I set the first part (Process0-DkBlue), and second part (Process1-Silver); copied process 1 and pasted it 4 times then edited them as required. Worked fine.
Just something I noticed is that it works fine for prints like this but for something where you are doing a color change during the infill it will insert a solid layer. If you turn off top and bottom layers for the in-between layers but then one of those layers needs a top then doesn't print a top layer.
Great video, just noticed you are using the paw patrol model I designed. Glad you like it!
Thanks! It was the perfect model to show off this feature. Thanks for making it!
I've tried using the gcode script to pause at a certain height/layer but my printer doesn't lock the steppers so while trying to unload and then load filament if the head moves at all the print is screwed. Using your method they essentially print as 2 (or more) separate models. Question - for parts 2 and beyond is there a concern that the starting gcode could force the head or gantry down into the existing print when homing and then priming? Wouldn't using the prime pillar be a better option?
Shane, I think I have figured out how to fix the annoying build platform STL issue (noticed you were stuck with what looked like the CR10 at the beginning of the video). Would you be interested in helping me test before I put up the process on my channel?
Hey shane I'm a teen learning 3d printing and I was wondering if you can do a video/tutorial on the MakerBot slicing software. Thanks ;) !!!
I have never used it before so I don't think I would be a good authority on it.
Hi!! thanks a lot! works like a charm! but I needed to delete the auto bed leveling code of the second and third gcode. Is it possible to do something to keep the auto bed leveling? in another gcodes?
You should be fine in such a short period of time.
in the end script of the 1st process would an M600 work if advance pause/filament change feature is enabled in firmware?
I think it would if you are doing this all as 1 process but the scripts would need a lot of work. By doing it the way I show you don't need to worry too much about start/stop scripts.
On the 16:30 mark he says to put the safeties back in. How can I go about doing that correctly ? Have no clue what the safeties are.
Like, what commands do I have to type ?
Thanks!
Hello, for version 5.1 of S3D, do you know how I can print in color? thanks
Can you post your starting script please
Well Sir, I love you for this!!! I've had my CR-10S for about 2 months and last night I did my first successful gcode multicolor print. While I'm happy with it, I will have to print it again because my second color is 1 layer too low... Using the Variable Settings Wizard takes the guessing out of when I need to change filament; so awesome!
Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask this, but how do I have S3D print my first layer at 0.2mm and then all remaining layers at 0.1mm?
Just set your first layer to 200% layer height under the Layer Tab.
That simple and logical, eh... I feel really dumb. Thanks!
How long do you have to switch colors before it starts again?
why wouldnt you post your end script into the description?
Is it not possible to put all of this in one gcode?
i really appreciate the video and will be attempting this sometime tonight when my current print gets done. i do have a question not directly related but i hope someone can help. when you are adjusting the infill percentage there are options above the slider to adjust quality of print and another one. those disappeared on me randomly a month or so into using simplify3d and i cannot seem to get them back. any ideas?
I have 1 profile that it is missing from. I could never figure out why though.
Fugatech 3D Printing thanks for the reply. I still haven't figured out out either. Just vanished one day.
i need a video on how to take an image and create layer height with certain parts to make a model like that paw patrol
I think I can do that. I've done a few personal projects to include this one. I've just never recorded the process.
Excellent tutorial
Thanks You Man
I have a problem i use Simplify 3D in a printer with a bltouch auto level, in each process You need to home again?
If it need to home i don't know how can i do it with autolevel, help please
You don't need to run G29 again. You printer just did it. Just home X and Y to make it easier to reload filament. The printer knows it's Z position.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting thank You
How do I keep it from dragging over my print. It goes home then goes across my print then goes up to the set Z height
I got a question please. When Process 1 is finished printing, how do you start Process 2? Start it just like a new print (print from SD, select Process 2)? Nothing else works for me on my Ender 5. I have a Gcode pause but it don't work using the SD card. I have S3D V4 ;-) Great Video
You have to export each process as gcode. So Part 1, Part 2 etc. Once it finishes, you take out the filament, put in your new filament then print the next part. Make sure to purge your nozzle before starting the print.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting Thanks. I found in my design there was some height problems.I have to go back to TinkerCad and fix those. Then I'll follow your video again, especially those Gcodes you show. I'll have to find out what does what on those. I may have to change some. I copied your Gcodes and have to learn which does what. I have an Ender 5 which is different from yours.
so you basically print two jobs but without removing the first job once printed? is there a way to consolidate both jobs into one?
Yes. There is an easier way now to do this and it works with any slicer. Well, it has been out for a long time but not many people knew about it. blog.prusaprinters.org/color-print/
Any suggestions on how i would print a transparent top to an led project that I'm making? Its a complicated shape that I want to look like a transparent inlay with a black surround - so the transparent goes from top to heat bed and the black is woven within to block the light on top, exposing only the complicated shape... (with one extruder). Thanks for sharing - my kids would LOVE that paw patrol badge!
You could do the lower levels in black and leave where you want the transparent filament to be open. Then do bridging over those gaps with the transparent filament to get the desired effect. If you want it to show light through, make sure you do 100% infill.
Thanks for the response! Are you saying alternate layers of transparent and black?
No. So say your model is 10mm tall, Do the first 5mm or w/e you need it to be in black, then switch to transparent. Just be sure there the space under the transparent parts is open so the LED can shine through. Does that make sense?
Makes sense. what if i wanted to encapsulate the transparent in black (except the top and bottom) - is that possible?
Maybe. Might be easier to print multiple pieces then glue them together.
How do I get my printer to home not in the center? When I home my printer x-y-z it moves to the center of the bed X150Y150 you home the Z and this will be covered by the part.
You can set your own start/end script. G1 X0 Y0
When importing Paw Patrol, the Z layer is 6mm, but when I use the variable settings wizard, it will only go up to 3. Is there a reason for this? Thanks!
Check to be sure you don't have any Z restrictions set first.
followed your tutorial but its not pausing in between process? i added the g1 x0 y0...so what am i doing wrong
You save it as two g-codes. So the printer will stop printing after the first one -> you change the filament -> and then you start printing the second g-code. You must edit the first g-code end script so the nozzle and bed will be hot.
Can't you just save a factory file with eg 2 colors changed, and then just replace the model and the change layer hights? You won't have to edit all settings over and over again.
I'm trying this for the first time and it works nice, but i had to change the first g-code ending script to G1 X0 Z50 to move the extruder up. Otherwise, any filament change would be hard when the nozzle is at eg 1mm hight.. Well, you can move manually from the printer menu but it's more convient to do it in ending g-code
Tomato, Tomato :) In my experience messing with factory files is more work then it should be. The variable layer wizard in S3D is a good tool. You just need to do a bit extra each process to ensure success.
I just use M600 command to change filament on Prusa i3 MK2. No need to hassle with all these different processes.
I do the multi process, but what i do it to make locating my M600 position easier.
For Simplify3D gcode:
1. Open gcode file with a notepad
2.CTRL+F, enter like example "layer 10" to search box if its ok for you to use layer number or enter "z = 2.0" if you want to search by layer height
3. Add a new line below with "M600" command in it.
4. Save it.
Couldn't you just add M600 to the start script of the next process or the end script of the previous process?
Can anyone vouch for this? I'd much rather use M600 command in one of the start/end scripts, as it retracts old fillament, beeps, waits for me to change it, etc, it's more convenient, imho.
My printer just lays first warm line and then stops, tried on two different printers, cant see what I'm doing wrong
When i select prepare to print on the second process it doesnt show a split model it just show the regular model
Make sure you select that process or you didn't split the model correctly.
What would the steps be if I was printing from an SD card?
once you have completed 1 process, changed the filament, just select your next process on the sdcard and away she goes.
And then there's ideaMaker. Dunno much about it, but it's FREE. I've downloaded it and hopefully it will do wonders. :*)
I downloaded it as well but have not tried it yet. Hopefully I can get some time after the holidays to try it out.
what configuration ou using on the anycubic?
What do you mean?
@@Fugatech3DPrinting the configuration on te slicer. I'm trying and testing several configurations to anycubic mega s.
Hmmm. You dont really need to even home x y and z for the beginning of each of the next process I think. Just start the next process and the very 1st calibration should hold
You have to move the head otherwise it will melt a huge blob onto your model. Also you need space to purge out the other color of filament. Homing ensures you start and stop in the exact same place for each STL.
You Can just do G1 X0 and G1 Y0 Nd do your purge as normal. The reason I say this is some people may be using probe sensors for Z and not always get the exact same value each probe.
Just moving x and y to zero and not homing anything will keep the same settings from first process.
Just my 2cents worth
This assumes you do not turn off the printer when changing out colors and do not restart simplyfy3d each process in between processes.
True, but that all depends on which printer you are using. On the MPSM, your way is perfectly fine. For a printer like the CR-10 where the extruder is mounted to the Z, this is not a good idea. If you are loading filament and push down too hard on the Z, it will change its height and then your print will mess up. My way ensures that is never a problem.
And yes, if you are using an auto bed leveling probe none of this will work.
Hi Guys,
I know that this video is old, unfortunately it is not working anymore.... Do u have any idea why is that, they updated Simplify 3D eliminating this feature... The end script of the single process
Sorry, I’ve did not payed attention. All Good! Thank You!!
2017: "Who doesn't like Paw Patrol? I actually watch it."
2021: Paw Patrol Canceled because a cartoon dog is cast as a policeman.
SMH
WooHoo, first!
Lets call the background a creative mess ;)
Great tutorial! Thanks