How to do Multi-Color 3D Prints on Ender 3 3D Printer
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- Chuck shows you how to create a Multi Color 3D Print in CURA 3 on Creality Ender 3. He shows you how to setup one GCode file to produce 4 separate pause points allowing you to change filament on the one nozzle ENDER3 3D Printer. Only one file is required for your printer and the printer will wait for you between layers so you don't have to stand around and wait to pause it at the right time.
CHEP CUBE: www.thingivers...
Proto-Pasta CHEP Candy Apple Red: amzn.to/2I1IJFR
Filament Friday Filament: amzn.to/2rgz3Ma
Multi Color Sign Video: • 3D Printed Harry Potte...
Filament Friday Tool Kit: amzn.to/2MOR00X
Filament Friday 3D Printer Starter Kits: bit.ly/2EuojUq
Temperature Meter Used in Videos: amzn.to/2JpUJOC
Screwdriver set used in Videos: amzn.to/2PbWocM
Creality Ender 3/CR-10 Parts:
-----------
PTFE Coupling: amzn.to/2BJDog1
Capricorn Tubing: amzn.to/2nI2ipS
CR10/Ender3 Silicon Heater Block Cover: amzn.to/2PaxJ89
CR10/Creality Ender 3 Nozzles: amzn.to/2JF3Ii8
Solder Sleeve Kit: amzn.to/2Pqqngm
Creality Ender 3 Fan Set (24v): amzn.to/38u9aOl
CR-10 Fan Set (12v): amzn.to/2PrcCxK
T-Nuts Kit: amzn.to/2LsQZg8
Screw Kit: amzn.to/2Va8uGK
Creality Ender 3:
From Banggood : bit.ly/2wfD5Ia
From : : amzn.to/2VoA4zV
Creality Ender 3 Pro:
From Banggood.com: bit.ly/2DBG0AI
From .com: amzn.to/2QUjRUL
Geeetech A10:
From Banggood: bit.ly/2PfgC8u
From : amzn.to/2SsVzxD
CR10 Mini
From Banggood : bit.ly/2u5XNJk
From .com : amzn.to/2l8B7mX
CR-10:
From Banggood : bit.ly/2udpwaj
From : amzn.to/2s899uZ
CR-10S
From Banggood : bit.ly/2jQgZVY
From : amzn.to/2Rqv7aN
Buy a Prusa 3D MK2 or MK3 : bit.ly/2M88JjJ
SeeMeCNC Artemis: bit.ly/2OxRNnU
Geeetech A20:
: amzn.to/2s8p6B7
A10M
: amzn.to/2FqK2Nj
A20M
Banggood: bit.ly/2PyKwpd
: amzn.to/2DJahNg
********* $3 - Ender Style Cura Profiles Download Links: *******
Latest V5.x Profiles: rb.gy/5k981c
TPU Profiles: shorturl.at/V08bk
PETG Profiles: shorturl.at/RLEfI
(Free to Patreon Members)
**** Support the Channel *****************
EBAY USA: ebay.to/1wtxfiU
EBAY UK: ebay.eu/2qdC5iy
EBAY Canada: bit.ly/2qdGRwh
Banggood:
www.banggood.c...
:
www..com?lkid=19506489
Support the Channel here and Shop at MatterHackers.com and you automatically donate to the channel at no cost to you:
bit.ly/1Ugcijp
Buy thru this link to Slice Engineering for the Best Hot Ends:
bit.ly/3yuyuze
Note:
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
Financial Support through Patreon:
/ elproducts
****************************************************
Filament Friday Sticker:
Send Self Addressed Stamped Envelope to:
Electronic Products
PO Box 251
Milford, MI 48381
****************************************************
Filament Friday Playlist:
goo.gl/yJLNhr
Chuck's Arduino Book:
amzn.to/3tA31JP
Chuck's Website:
www.elproducts.com
Intro animation by Pablo Licari based on Filament Friday Logo by Brian Carter.
If you have a newer Ender 3 with 32 bit board this may not work because Creality didn’t include the M0 command in the firmware. Try the M25 option.
See.... this is why your channel is awesome. I was just about to try doing this, so I looked up your video as a tutorial and would you believe it, the comment here is relating to my printer. Now I know to try the M25 instead of M0! Thank you!
M0 is also not working on older Ender 3 with a newer board.
@@BrandonsRUclips Have you tried this with the M25 yet? Just curious rather then waiting halfway through my print to find out if it works or not.
@@doublejz00 I did try this and I do believe it worked. I manually replaced the M0 with M25 code and use the pause at height command in cura. I would go back and double-check but I didn't make a copy of my g code. But I do have the prints and it did work.
What doesn’t work, my M25 version for the V2?
I usually set the standby temp to 200C instead of 25C. Then instead of racing to extrude out the old filament color in the time it takes for the nozzle to heat from 185C to 200C, I can extrude as much filament as desired BEFORE resuming the pause. And I do this by holding the gear release while pushing the filament by hand (Marlin 2.x does not provide for operating the menus during M0).
Hello Chep, I did your method, I used the same codes you did. some times it worked and some times it knocked the print off, so I changed one code, it was Redo Layers. I placed a 0 instead of 1. The prints always have worked, did not push print off no more. Like your channel. keep up the good work!!!
hope this helps me I've been struggling
This works in octoprint stable version, but it hangs on the pause. I have not figured out how to get it to restart.
Thanks so much for showing me how to do this! It opens up a world of possibilities! Love your channel
Thanks.
I agree 100% !! Chuck's Da Man! ;)
@@FilamentFriday I tried it but when it started after the pause, it started at layer zero and knocked the print over. Do you have a solution, I'm new to 3d printing and would love some help.
CHEP a question. Will it work only if you are printing from sd-card? If i print over usb it will not work.
Yes, I believe it’s SD only
there is no useless moment of this video....chep video is always concise,clear, kind and also editing is perfect...!
Thanks
Important things I learned doing stuff with this (and we are at Cura 5 so people coming here might notice that the video is different, I did):
There's a new field that isn't shown in the video called *Disarm Timeout*, it's the amount of time the printer will wait, after that the motors will disarm, meaning they aren't stopped in place and they could lose their positions easily if you for example push on the carriage too hard. I didn't know this was important so I was always messing up prints because I would push the z axis down by accident. It's set by default to 0, but I don't think the tooltip is well redacted because it makes it seem like 0 there means it will never disarm, when in fact leaving that at 0 means they will disarm IMMEDIATELY. You wanna set it to something that let's you change the filament comfortably even if you happen to have gotten up to go pee and then came back a bit later. In my case I have it set at 600 s so 10 minutes. 1800 s is half an hour. Remember it's in seconds.
Another important thing is that Redo Layer might not work well with every printer. In my case when I leave that one it will return to where it had left off at x and y but not at z, meaning it's left printing that layer in the air and spaghettiing everything. I personally don't use it. I have a Hellbot Magna SE. Your mileage may vary, just keep in mind that if that happens to you, it's because of that option I mentioned.
Also when you change filaments, provided you set the disarm timeout correctly and the motors are locked in place, you should manually push the filament down to purge the rest of the previous one. Push it until it comes out the color you want it to, it shouldn't take long. Make sure to remove that from the nozzle of course.
I have managed to do 4 color prints with the method described in the video and the tips above! Thanks chep!
I have a problem of abundant extrusion at restart after filament change. Should I have to retract filament before restart print?
You can. It’s an option.
Oh man, I could have used this video a few weeks ago. Just got done figuring this out for myself.
I will note, that I upgraded to the Micro Swiss all metal hotend. By doing the retraction and then pausing and cooling, I found that I was getting filament blobs stuck above the heat break in the metal throat, which was making the filament change impossible. It worked best to only retract enough to prevent dripping while going to the park position. Then when I was ready to change the filament I raised the temp back-up, retracted, and changed the filament all while the hotend was still hot.
That part of the reason I never switched to a all metal hot end.
I love this 3D print community. I just ordered my very first 3D printer and I have a great knowledge base to go through because of people like yourself. Thanks man. I get mine on 2/10/21 I waited until I could find the ender 3 for less than 200 and I found 1 for 166 so I jumped on it . Thanks for being out there for all of us.
NB: Note that the first layer that cural prints is Layer 0 (not layer 1) therefore whatever the g code says is layer 25 is really layer 26.
Good point. I've already been caught out with that a couple of times. :-)
This is much better than editing the GCODE yourself or pausing the Print. Thank You, Great tutorial.
One day I'll save up for a PALETTE 2, but then it would cost more than the Ender 3. LoL
Cura 4.3 has fixed the extruding in the air problem. Now this great video works for me. It probably worked fine with the Cura version he used and Cura messed it up. Thanks for the nice video.
Just had the same problem 2min ago... sliced it 2 hours ago and it prints in the Air.. Ender 3 Pro
AAAAAAAAAAAAnd im still on last version... Updating now...
Yea I just had that issue right now. Time to update! I'm printing my logo :)
It actually prints in the air still, you have to not move your x axis at all. But what I do is resume the print, once it heats up I pause it and auto home, then resume.
@@jbgarza2010 Strange, mine works 100% but good you have a solution :)
CHEP you've honestly helped me so much in the past 3 days of getting my first 3D printer and opened up the world of 3D printing i made my first design which was to simply replace some Ikea blind brackets in tinkercad cheers brother.
I use the "Filament Change" selection in Cura and it works great on my Ender 3 S1.
Thanks for the Cura focus. It's nice to share that S3d is not the only game in town, especially with the uncertainty of the V5 upgrade cost. Great video!
Why not use Fillament Change option? It works great on my Ender 3 Pro.
I use the the layer I wanna pause at +1, change the filament, and Ender extrudes out the old colour automatically and even asks you if you want to extrude even more or continue printing and that's it.
True. Haven't tried this yet though. I have changed filament once and it seemed to pick up right where it left.
As I mentioned, the Ender 3 v2 does not pause until user presses the buttor, it just continues. I found a workaround by using the pause scripts wile printing from Octoprint
Just pickled up your toolkit, started printing about a week ago. The videos you put up have been extremely helpful. My goal is to be able to level my bed as quickly as you. This video is awesome, can't wait to try out some more of your tips and tricks. Thank you.
You’re welcome. Thanks for buying the tool kit.
Late to the party but here’s my tuppence worth. The advice worked for me, so I must have the correct board. I did find that there was a big squirt at the start of the new colour filament, I have found that not having any retraction (set to 0) stops this,but to be able to pull out the first colour you need to set standing temperature to the working temperature for an easy pull! It does mean it might help to be around when the change is due! If it’s not working for you, you have the wrong board, check out his other post that explains this. Looking at two lovely Kawasaki badges, white lettering on a black base, Perfect. Thanks for the advice and subscribed. Thanks for your hard work.
I'm having the same issue, I'm going to give this a try. My only question is, is the color change instant doing this? Or should I set it to extrude a small amount prior to resuming to facilitate the color change?
Thanks
Marc M. If you do as I suggest, and leave it hot , pull out the filimant push in new filament and make sure it’s flowing through the hot end, when it’s squirted out and inch or two, or when new colour is seen, clean head and press resume!
Thank you Chuck! You're right, one should use filaments from the same provider to avoid visible mechanical differences caused by settings conflicts. Always instructive to watch your posts.
Hi, I tried that on Ender 3 and it doesn't work. the print pause, goes to the right X/Y. and immediately continue the print
As ever, valuable info clearly presented. I can't express how refreshing I find your straightforward, no-nonsense approach. Many thanks!
I might use this method for embedding nuts and other materials into my prints too! Thanks 👍🏼
Epic! I'm also thinking how to go around it, still there is the issue of nozzle hitting the nut which is most likely going to be higher than last placed layer
@@orkusmg The trick is to ensure that the pocket is deeper than the thickness of the nut.
i learn something new on every one of your videos, I had no idea my printer could do so much using Cura. videos are fast and to the point
Chuck - I've really enjoyed the last 2 videos with the deep dive into the extra functions within Cura. Thumbs up!
@CHEP any chance you can update or correct your video to reflect the correct settings for cura 4.8 and the current marlin firmware for the 32 bit ender boards.
Thank you, thank you, thank you, Chep!! I'm new to 3D printing and everyone of your videos has been invaluable to get started. I appreciate your time and effort in making and sharing these videos. You are a wealth of info and you present it perfectly; concise, informative and thorough. Keep up the great work!
Thank You
Why use the 'pause at height' script instead of the 'filament change' script; what are the advantages and disadvantages between them? (reference time 1:09)
I too am curious about that script.
Chep, the best RUclips presenter. You and Steady Crafting are top of my list.
if your having problems with the print head moving while changing the filament just use the filament change script. set the layer to the layer you want the new colour to start and set the initial retraction to 0, the ender 3 seems to think this is an extrude command or something.
nub thanks, I think you just fixed the problem I ended up having with the z axis moving.
THIS! The info in this video blew my mind and as im sure you've heard many times before has opened a whole new world to me. I didn't even know i could such a thing in Cura. Thank you so much for all your hard work and dedication to the community.
P.S. ive been using your bed leveling GCodes and test print aswell as your Ender 3 side Spool holder and love those aswell.
Does it pause before the layer starts or after the layer is finished?
thanks for actually giving me a solve for my problem instead of some fake solution. you really helped me out here !
Great, will not use this for different color but to inlay some other parts like a wire in a channel or some screws...
Exactly what I was thinking of doing, embedding something within the print.
Holy crap, I din't this could be done with one nozzle! Wow, I hope I remember this video when my ender 3 arrives, this is great info. Thank you.
Awsome, how i do it is while its in the infill area i just hit pause take it out put the other color in hit print and while it heats and reloads it will be passing through the infill.
That is a handy feature. I really enjoy your insights into some of the additional features of Cura. Thank you.
I have tried this on an Ender Pro3. It only pauses for a few seconds and continues. Any suggestions to make the pause longer or until I start it manually?
Same happens to me
@@RyanD-045 Need to do a firmware update. That allowed me to do what I needed to do
@@bradmcwhirter7450 which version?
Do you have discord?
@@RyanD-045 I do not have discord on my devices with me. I also do not have the link to the site with the updates but in another video, CHEP recommended a pay site for updated firmware that is updated daily. This helped me accomplish the color change since I use a creality printer and their firmware does not activate the options needed for color change
Awesome! I didn't know you could add multiple pause at Z heights until watching this video. Thank you.
I tried using this technique on a print to change colors and the printer stops as it should, but the nozzle crashes into the print when I resume, any advice? I am using Cura and a Tevo Tornado.
I know I'm late to the party, but I've just started experimenting with multi-color prints. Thanks Chuck, this video guide is really useful and easy to follow!
Hey CHEP! I went to do a color change but my printer only paused for a minute and started back up again before I could even change to filament. I followed your video exactly. Is there something I'm missing?
DUDE! You are absolutely amazing! I would have never thought of trying this. Thank you SOOOO much! Now to go back and see how you did the multi color sign. My brain is going crazy with ideas!
why use this method instead of the filament change command?
Really nice. I’ll definitely try this out. From now on no more waiting to pause and change colors
Has anyone figured out why when continuing after changing filament it resumes above the print and extrudes filament in the air?
Ender 3 Pro
1.1.5 board
Marlin 1.1.9 + BugFix
BLTouch (Generic)
Cura 4.2.1
I wish there was a script that could wipe off the old filament
Thanks Chuck. I wondered how you would accomplish different colours on different layers with a single nozzle printer. You made it so simple and I will be using this newly learned skill for a lot of my future prints.
I tried with my V2 not knowing I should be using M25 (so I was using M0) and the nozle came down and scratched the bed. Now seeing the comments I'm going to try the M25. I will Update soon.
Oh yeah, forgot to update 😅, but yes it worked
Wow! I did not know Cura had gotten so much better! I'm awaiting my ender 3, and this will be super helpful!
I've used the Filament Change command in Cura to do this many times but I found that it was difficult to not accidentally move any of the axis while changing the filament. Does the Pause at Height command leave the steppers locked?
To get around moving the steppers I have found that I can rehome the X and Y axis with G28 X Y, and then the Z at the origin with G28 Z, as long as the print is not towards the front of the printer, then give a G0 command back to the original height and then a G0 command to the X and Y position. I have also have an O shaped model that I put between the origin and the model so that it gets printed first as a purge tower.
You’re my hero. Thank you so much. I’m psyched to try this out. I had no idea about purging. My white has never been pure since I didn’t know I could do that
Chuck, you should revisit this now that Cura 5.1 is out. I use this video as reference so much, but now with cura 5.1 something is really strange and I can't seem to figure out, like when I would hit resume it would automatically extrude out some filament even with having the setting like you show in your video. Now with 5.1 you don't get that little extrude amount and then it puts a big blog on the print where it's resuming at.
I am having the same issue as well. The pause and resume are working great with the exception that when it resumes, it's spitting out a little blob right where it resumes.
@@Vischar It's like the little prime command that used to happen before it would move over to the print doesn't happen any more?
@@ydkjman It was either spitting out a blob on resume, or a void if it wasn't primed... So yes, I think this is a priming issue on resume. I fixed this personally by building a prime tower beside whatever I was printing. I made sure the slicer started each layer on the prime tower, so that when it resumes any blob or void will be on the tower, not my print. Uses a bit more filament, but works perfect to keep the color switching more consistent.
@@Vischar Thanks for the tip
I have same problem.
Can it be a solution add extrusion script after pause ?
great information. I just bought my first 3D printer (Ender 3 V2) and should get it tomorrow. have been looking around at diff tutorials to get myself ramped up. this one is very helpful.
Would you mind releasing a tutorial on how to do this same process in cura 4.8 and the current version of the ender 3? Because this isn't working for me. I tried using the Marlin (MO) method and it did nothing. I then tried BQ M25 and it did pause, but wouldn't disengage the steppers even after it reached the time I specified, which made it difficult to change filament and purge the extruder of the previous colour.
Any help or further info would be appreciated
same problem. please sir CHEP! thank you!
Do not check the box that says "redo layer" and it will work fine. The same thing kept happening to me until I deleted that checkmark in that box. Worked perfect after that.
@@motoprof1441 box is not checked, still have problems.
Same, I've tried this multiple times on 4.8 with various settings and it won't work. I even added a beep before the pause so I could hear when it was ready for me to change the filament, and it moves to the corner and then immediately starts printing again.
GREAT VIDEO! I HAVE GOT TO TRY THIS!!!!! Most of the koolest things I have done are multi color most just 2 colors but standing waiting for the layer. And of course having to pause then home and restart this would end all the pain involved! Thank you!
This did not work for me. The gcode stopped the program at the correct height, but then the Z height changed when I was handling the filament. This process does not recover the correct z height on my Ender 3, so it was crashing into the part, making a mess.
Same for me. I've also touched the bed and put it out of position. It would be nice to lock all axis
been having the same problem. wish there was a way to fix this issue
Ditto, it's bloody annoying. I ruined a print today by accidentally moving the Z axis just a little.
1OlBull same. It’s annoying.
You're quickly becoming one of my favorite 3D printing channels! Another great video
chip what was that gear that you used to twist out more filament?
Wow, this is a very comprehensive tutorial. Thank you!
One thing that confused me about this. When you change the filament, you manually extrude until the new colour is flowing. Doesn’t that mess up the Z height? The printer has no way of knowing you did that. Or am I missing something here (ENTIRELY possible! 🙂).
Love your channel! Thanks for this.
Not at all, the printer is not calculating flow through the extruder when you manually push it through.
Unless you bump it and move Z your fine.
@@FilamentFriday Hey, Chep. So I'm finding that it's really easy to have Z start to ride down the rod with minimal movement. During the pause, it seems my Ender 3 Pro is unlocking the stepper and allowing gravity to grab a hold of it way easier than I want. Is there a way to stop this? I'm going to dig through Marlin's code to see if I can add a command to the .gcode file to lock up the steppers right as it's pausing. Have you had similar issue/have a workaround?
You can tighten to eccentric nut on the inside wheels and also the screws on the brass nut.
@@FilamentFriday When you said eccentric nut, I assumed you were talking about my Uncle Derek, but there's no way you know him. But seriously, this worked exactly as I'd hoped. Thank you for this, I didn't even notice the hex pattern inside the wheels.
Thanks for the video on using multiple colors by adding the pause command in the G-does. I was really frustrated using Z-hop and Cura kept changing alignment of my objects. Thanks again.
Wait 1 swcond whats that thing he twisted to pishe filament out how do i add that sheeshh!!
Good info! Thanks for sharing. Slicer makes it very easy to put in filament changes. You scroll to what layer you want filament change and click the + and it will modify the G-Code to have a pause and park the head.
Yep, just as I showed here:
ruclips.net/video/wnJ24KTBF7U/видео.html
I have a problem, I did the same settings as you, my printer does the pause, but doesn‘t start printing again, when I press the pause button on the printer, it just says: „waiting to finish command“, it just sits there and does nothing, any solutions? Printer: Anycubic Mega X
Same issue
Thank you for your expertise! This *is* indeed very handy for some prints, certainly more precise than splicing in the fillament by eyeballing it
is there a thingiverse file for the screw nob you have on the stepper motor
Go to Thingiverse. Item: 3176144
What you are doing is amazing!! Education the public!! Bravo to you Sir. Your videos are what made it possible for me to purchase my 1st 3D printer. Thank you very much.
You’re welcome. Just curious, did my affiliate links help you?
I want to buy the creality ender 3 but I wanted to know if you could print a multicolored helmet somehow like a storm trooper helmet
Not easily. You’d have to do it in parts and glue it together.
I can't change Filament without messing with the height. There's a way to lock the axis?
I had exactly that problem today, it totally tried to run right through previous couple of layers, print ruined !
Yes there is a function keeping the steppers Armed in 1 of the pause scripts in Cura.
@@nl2rma thank you! I'll try as soon as possible
The Post Processing script that has the option is called "Pause at hight" in Cura 4.6.1. And if you search the gcode you see the M18 S code for keeping the stepper armed, the S is followed by seconds before disarm.
Cura improves often and it seems that the difference between free Cura and $100+ slicers is more in terms of time than features. You can pay $100 today or wait 6 months to get the same feature free.
Thank you for keeping us informed on what is new, and more importantly, thank you to those who keep making Cura better.
Using M25 on ender 3 v2 version 1.2.2. It parks the print for a couple of seconds and then goes back to the print and just hovers over it until I tell it to start again. I can change the filament but I get massive blobs because of this. Is there any way I can make it park longer?
Well Chep I tried this method on my Core XY with Repetier and it paused, went home, extruded 25mm and went back to finish print......I will keep pluggin til I get it right! Thank You for the very informative videos on all aspects of 3D printing.
If i insert other color filament, the head moves, and wont print correct.
The head is not allowed to move while changing filament, impossible : if i touch the head it moves.
How can i solve this ?
I am having the same issue and am experimenting with the stepper motor engagement timeout, but it is maxed out at 999 seconds which is fast. I had a few failed prints from not changing the filament before that timeout time. Just curious, what version of marlin are you running?
same problem with me
Just did this on some tokens. Came out wonderful. Thanks Chuck!!
Note to beginners when it stops printing it disarms the steppers and it losses its place
You have to enable disarm timeout and set it to 1000s so the z axis do not move under pressure
@@samslocos3478 I got it up to 1500s to give 25 minutes, just in case one is away from the printer. Also, he doesn't call it out in the video, but the redo layers I think is key too, just in case there is a variance in Z (I know mine isn't perfect) and there could be variance in the flow due to a few factors like moisture, which could cause the layers between he color change to have a slight gap, so the layer redo is a good idea imho.
Thanks for showing how to do this. I've never tried it yet. Now I'm going to give it a shot
this doesnt work on ender 3 v2. it stops for a few seconds and continues
Same issue here any solution would be great.
@@chrisradical2046 i upgraded to the th3d firmware. works now
I use both methods. I find the G-Code Script to be good too. You can set the pauses via layer heights rather than mm and you can also see the layer its up to on the LCD of the printer. Now if only Simplify 3D had more settings for the purge tower, I could utilise the A20M a lot more. Another great video.
If you tell is to pause at layer 25, does it pause before or after it lays down layer 25?
After layer 25
@@number0096 so if I need layer 22 to be white I set it to change at 21??
@@gkmankowal2542Yes
Mines paused and never gave me an option to start..... Lovely.
This is AWESOME! I'm new to your channel but already a fan. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Can't wait to try out.
The Pause script should add an option checkbox for a BEEP (M300) to audibly notify of the time for the filament change. I would also bump up the retract distance to just fully pull the filament.
The script could also be modified to allow a list of layers to repeat the pause it, instead of having to add each one at a time, which could then have a temperature for each set of layers if they just added a table to make the entries into.
Chep, im a man, married with a woman and heterosexual...dude, I love you. This channel is amazing, you have the answer of every question I ask in RUclips about 3d printing, THANK YOU SO MUCH
Great tip chep, I was actually doing this yesterday for a key tag and was staying over the printer to pause it 😂
I’ve been there.
I don't have 3D printer yet but I'm watching all the videos I need and your channel is very helpful! Well deserved sub!
Awosome video love it! everything was made way more simple than waiting to pause the print :D
You couldn't make more clear how to do this. My Ender 3 will arrive anyday and I can't wait to try it.
Thank you so much for all your videos, I’ve learned so much. Can you please show us how to pause at a height half way to insert a magnet, stick the magnet letting it dry and then resume the print? Thanks
Will do.
The fun part is not borking the Z height while fiddling w/ the E motor. Or does it not disable the Z motor?
Thank you so much since being a new 3d printer guy i did so much cuz of you leveled my bed and everything thank you so much
I appreciate you posting this. Im only on my 8th print and this is going to help so much with ideas I have.
Clear and concise as usual. Thanks
Great information sir getting ready to print somthing in five colors on a single extruder this is exactly what I needed
Chep! Thank you a lot for the filament change solution!
I have tried it on my Ender 3 (with skr mini E3) - it works perfectly well and correct!
Have a good Day and Lucky print!
I did this on my anycubic mega S following your instructions and it worked almost flawlessly. Only issue I ran into was the filament run-out sensor, when I changed the filament it screwed up the printer "resume" but I just powered cycled the printer and kicked off the resume as if it lost power and it picked up and ran the rest of the job flawlessly.
Another Great Video Chuck! I was doing color changes like this but I kept having issues with with the stepper motors timing out/de-energizing while trying to load a new filament. When this happens my gantry would drop and when I would resume the print the nozzle would end up digging into the print. I ended up switching to the Filament Change Script which keeps the stepper motors locked and automatically extrudes filament to clean the old color out of the nozzle. Sometimes Cura (3.4.1) doesn't add the all scripts into the g-code so I have started checking the g-code in a text editor to make sure the M600 command get inserted into all the layers I want the color changes to happen.
Great explanation. I haven’t had as much luck with that script. I’ll have to try again. Thanks.
This is going to level up my abilities so much thank you👏👍
My Ender 3 Pro is arriving next week, and I need to make a bunch of two-color keychains for a charity. So thanks a lot for this! My current printer is a Makerbot Replicator Mini so I basically have to re-learn everything I know. 😛
ok i am now subbed so far every video i seen of yours is just pure gold i had my ender 3 pro arrive today and i am loving it and your videos have been a massive help to understand this printer
This worked great! Using m25 code on a newer Ender 3. I did notice that on the newest version of Cura, it didn't seem to put the pause g-code in the same place as yours. Still worked!
you can use the Filament Change gcode as well if you printer run Marlin
I did some nice print using your advice and thanks for that, but now, using an ender 3 When I resume the print the nozzle go down to the bed first and then and crush into the model...
You probably wont see this but you really make me enjoy learning about 3d printing
I saw it. Glad I could help.
@@FilamentFriday this also made my day wow ☺️👍