In your "pause at height" menu there is at the bottom a "G - Code before pause". If you fill in "M300" it wil give a beep when it goes into pause. So you can hear it..
FYI, I found out recently that layer numbers start at 0 in gcode. So if you want it to pause at layer 9 you need to enter layer 8, later 38 use layer 37, etc. That might be why you already have some lettering printed upwards. Not a big deal and might actually look cooler with some white before black. 😁👍 Important to know if you are doing a bridging or other temperature changing prints as well.
Very helpful, thank you. I like to extrude a little bit after the switch to clean out any remaining color from the nozzle, however, the print head immediately starts moving after extruding so you'll have to be quick to grab that glob so it doesn't become incorporated into the print
I used to use the Pause At Height function for colour changes but then spotted the Filament Change function and decided that might be better but it wasn't, in fact it did not even pause to allow me to change filament, I made a test gcode to test it out after just 6 layers of a cube so I didnt spoil a part, so Im back to Pause At Height. Thats what I love about the 12864 display on the Ender 3's, it will display Marlin notifications requested from Cura wheras the Touch screens on Creality machines won't, but I have Octoprint for those machines (2X Ender 5+) and a view layer plugin so I can get ready for the filament change.
Thanks a lot for this greate video. i just learned about pushing the print at a cirtain layer and it solved my issue with changing color jarring print.
Just an fyi, in Fusion360 you can go to Tools-3D print, then select your model you want to print and select ok in the menu and it will automatically open Cues instead of saving it to your computer and using more space.
Wow thank you Andrew I did not know this even though I have my Ender 3 Pro. I use Cura also so that's going to be nice. I'm going to try that out on many of my prints now, very good video can't wait to see more stay safe buddy thanks a lot!
You've really got me thinking I should get my toes in the water with 3d printing. I know I could make use of one, but being a woodworker I always seem to find a faster way to produce what I need from wood. I'll bite the bullet one day I'm sure. Thanks for the video.
I am guessing there has been several updates in the past 3 years and now there are a few more options. I was wondering how to determine the method IE: Marlin or another method
Andrew, we have to get you onto using a rasberry pi and octoprint to control your printer. Especially useful for this kind of task. You can even add a webcam and watch it from a safe 'social distance'.
Heyy i try doig this but the 3d printer keep spitting out like a huge ammount of fillament when its time to stop. Its not dripping its getting pushed out by the extruder
Hello, so I am doing pretty much the exact same thing with the same colors, but I have a problem. When I hit to resume, a little bit of filament oozes out just before it hits the print and leaves a blob where it first hits and it makes for an ugly mark. Now, I have tried to wipe off the nozzle just before it hits but it still oozes enough o make a blob mark. Do you have any suggestions to fix it or is there something that I am missing?
One issue I had - the printer only paused for a few seconds and then resumed on it's own. How can I make it pause and not resume until I tell it to? Edit: I see someone else had the same question. No worries. Thanks for the great video Andrew!
Wondering if anyone can help me mine print paused over night so i changed the colour this morning but i couldn't get it to continue at all it just kept printing in mid air ? So i had to cancel it is my best option now to edit the gcode so the print starts at the layer number i paused it at ?
When I print small things in 2 colour, they don't really stick well, they just separate after printing with little force, I have to glue them, is there any fix for that
@@AndrewNewton the reason I ask is I am having problems with color change. I always get a blob in the place where the printing starts again. Was wondering if you have had this problem and how-to solve it...
@@jaggedpixel that's what I eventually did as well. I put small disc like items around my prints so that it would always restart from one of those purge blocks. I also found that my printer either wasn't level or when I was swapping the filament I would nudge the z axis down a little. So now when I change filament I am super careful for to move anything
I have the Ender3 V2. For some reason mine restarts printing automatically after 20 seconds. I can't see where to change this in the pause plugin. Thanks for video though.
@@flaviamartinez9998 No sorry, I think the current firmware does not support it. I just ended up dividing layer at I want to change by total layers. this gives a percent. And just pause manualy from the machine display. Happy Christmas.
I use the following gcode for the beep. Add it in with your module. It plays BK (Break) in Morse Code and adds a message to the LCD to change colors. ; Plays BK (Break) in Morse Code M117 Change Color! ; Adds message to LCD ;---- BK in Morse Code ---- ; M300 S1396 P214 ; Dah M300 S0 P60 ; intra-character spacing M300 S1396 P60 ; Dit M300 S0 P60 ; intra-character spacing M300 S1396 P60 ; Dit M300 S0 P60 ; intra-character spacing M300 S1396 P60 ; Dit M300 S0 P60 ; intra-character spacing M300 S1396 P214 ; Dah M300 S0 P60 ; intra-character spacing M300 S1396 P60 ; Dit M300 S0 P60 ; intra-character spacing M300 S1396 P214 ; Dah M300 S0 P1443 ; word spacing ;---- End - BK in Morse Code ----
Very nice mate. Next you have to get Octoprint so you don`t have to use the SD card. This will give you a little noise. I use at end of print code. Playing with numbers will give you some different sounds. M300 S440 P200 M300 S660 P250 M300 S880 P300 Found it on a CHEP video. reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M300:_Play_beep_sound
You're having way too much fun, Andrew! Does the plastic you've used have good UV resistance? I know Australia gets some serious sun exposure, so is your house number going to have to be slathered in pink Factor 50 sun-block cream? I'm in the north of England, where the 'sun' is actually no more than an urban myth. Sun, schmun: I've never seen it so there ain't no such animal round these parts. How else could I maintain my gorgeous, luscious, delicate peaches-and-cream complexion? (OK, so it's more pork pie and crisps with a pint of shandy followed by apple crumble and custard...) Is it safe to publish your house number on RUclips? I mean, the world's full of nutters who'll spend hours tracing details from your flying videos and aerial FPV data and putting it all together to find your exact location so that they can come round and buy you a beer... I'm female so I'm especially wary about giving out any information about my address online. It's a creepy world out there, full of strange people. Well, I live at number 4, Great Britain. If anyone can trace me from THAT, I'll not just buy them a beer, I'll buy them the whole bloomin' PUB! ;-)
In your "pause at height" menu there is at the bottom a "G - Code before pause". If you fill in "M300" it wil give a beep when it goes into pause. So you can hear it..
Nice tip Jokr, thanks
Hey thanks!
I know this is an older video but my cura version has an option to add beep at pause while you are adjusting the g code in the same setting.
FYI, I found out recently that layer numbers start at 0 in gcode. So if you want it to pause at layer 9 you need to enter layer 8, later 38 use layer 37, etc. That might be why you already have some lettering printed upwards. Not a big deal and might actually look cooler with some white before black. 😁👍
Important to know if you are doing a bridging or other temperature changing prints as well.
You can tell Cura if you want to use 0 or 1 as starting layer
Looks like the numbers are floating
Very helpful, thank you. I like to extrude a little bit after the switch to clean out any remaining color from the nozzle, however, the print head immediately starts moving after extruding so you'll have to be quick to grab that glob so it doesn't become incorporated into the print
Great tip!
I used to use the Pause At Height function for colour changes but then spotted the Filament Change function and decided that might be better but it wasn't, in fact it did not even pause to allow me to change filament, I made a test gcode to test it out after just 6 layers of a cube so I didnt spoil a part, so Im back to Pause At Height.
Thats what I love about the 12864 display on the Ender 3's, it will display Marlin notifications requested from Cura wheras the Touch screens on Creality machines won't, but I have Octoprint for those machines (2X Ender 5+) and a view layer plugin so I can get ready for the filament change.
Great job andrew !! You have come along far in a short time !!
Thanks Ralph, I can muddle my way through simple designs.
Thanks a lot for this greate video. i just learned about pushing the print at a cirtain layer and it solved my issue with changing color jarring print.
Always look forward to your Ender 3 vids
Just an fyi, in Fusion360 you can go to Tools-3D print, then select your model you want to print and select ok in the menu and it will automatically open Cues instead of saving it to your computer and using more space.
Correct but I like to save the files too
@@AndrewNewton Makes sense :P
That’s super clever pal
Thank you for this knowledge I'm very new to 3d printing and this is very helpful!!!
Wow thank you Andrew I did not know this even though I have my Ender 3 Pro. I use Cura also so that's going to be nice. I'm going to try that out on many of my prints now, very good video can't wait to see more stay safe buddy thanks a lot!
Excellent, it's a cool trick
thanks Andrew - some useful knowledge shared here. Hope to get a printer soon - once stock levels return.
Muchas Gracias por la explicación. 😊
Great CAD/CAM 🙂👍🏻 really awesome Job❗
excellent video, very helpful, many thanks
Awesome, just what I needed!
Thanks very much, very useful to know how to do this
Thanks for this. finally got multi color prints working :)
Great to hear!
You've really got me thinking I should get my toes in the water with 3d printing. I know I could make use of one, but being a woodworker I always seem to find a faster way to produce what I need from wood. I'll bite the bullet one day I'm sure. Thanks for the video.
Yes it's often quicker to stick to non printed bits, and stronger too
Simple!
Thanks for making this video!!
You're welcome!
Thank you for this...
It really helped me find this setting and get the colour change working. 👍👍👍
You're welcome!
Very informative Andrew, thank you for your time.
My pleasure!
dang that thing is loud. are all the older v3s like this? my ender 3 v3 se isnt anywhere near that loud.
Lucky you
Can you do it in with builder?
Have to ask a Builder user
what if you've paused it for days to continue later how to heat up proper again?
Really helpful
You prompted me to buy a 3D printer, but I brought a different type. Not sure I can use that software. Great video 👍🏻
Probably can. Cura is a universal slicer program, not only Ender 3.
Andrew Newton thanks Andrew, will have a look at it tomorrow. Keep safe 👍🏻
I am guessing there has been several updates in the past 3 years and now there are a few more options. I was wondering how to determine the method IE: Marlin or another method
No updates for me. Still the same I would guess
Excellent
Thank you very informative 👍
Interesting. I really need to try that. Thanks!
Thank you so match 🙏 thank goodness 😅
Andrew, we have to get you onto using a rasberry pi and octoprint to control your printer. Especially useful for this kind of task. You can even add a webcam and watch it from a safe 'social distance'.
One day, I'm a simple soul.
Looks like fun. Didn't you get a glass bed?
I did, but haven't tried it yet
Heyy i try doig this but the 3d printer keep spitting out like a huge ammount of fillament when its time to stop. Its not dripping its getting pushed out by the extruder
Great video. Thanks!
Andrew help me, how you put display remaining on lcd?
Just a Post processing plug-in tick box in Cura Extensions
Hi there is no option on the ender 3 KE to resume print once filament is changed?
Must be possible somehow, but I only have the original Ender.
Thanks for this. Thinking of doing simple things and this give ideas.
Glad it was helpful!
Is there a way to do it in prusaslicer?
Ask a Prusa user
Using the change filament function from the same menu is a bit more user friendly than pause at layer
Thanks for the tip Kris
Hello, so I am doing pretty much the exact same thing with the same colors, but I have a problem. When I hit to resume, a little bit of filament oozes out just before it hits the print and leaves a blob where it first hits and it makes for an ugly mark. Now, I have tried to wipe off the nozzle just before it hits but it still oozes enough o make a blob mark. Do you have any suggestions to fix it or is there something that I am missing?
I do the same as you. There probably is a "retraction" setting somewhere but I'm not aware of it.
thanks for this video such a great help with many things im thinking of printing.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this, I had wondered about it 😍👍
Assume the expansion will be different between black and white. Would be interesting how it behaves in heat and cold
Possibly, time will tell
One issue I had - the printer only paused for a few seconds and then resumed on it's own. How can I make it pause and not resume until I tell it to? Edit: I see someone else had the same question. No worries. Thanks for the great video Andrew!
Thanks, but I cant shed any more light on the issue sorry
Did ya have to do anything wit an g-code to do an color swap in cura at all
Just what I did in the video
@@AndrewNewton will this work wit any printer
@@monsterstorm78 Yes, CURA takes care of it
Thanks, I will try this. Thanks for sharing this video.👍
Most welcome 😊
Awsome❤❤💯💯
Nice tutorial.
Thanks!
Can you do this on a round object?
Only on a flat plane
I wonder why this work on your printer. I tried this on a Ender 3 S1, results in a clogged Extruder and a freezed printer.
Model Diesel Engine Starter Mk.4.i tester wanted.
Wondering if anyone can help me mine print paused over night so i changed the colour this morning but i couldn't get it to continue at all it just kept printing in mid air ? So i had to cancel it is my best option now to edit the gcode so the print starts at the layer number i paused it at ?
Yes I would try that. Depends on how accurate your printer is.
When I print small things in 2 colour, they don't really stick well, they just separate after printing with little force, I have to glue them, is there any fix for that
Higher temperature maybe?
@@AndrewNewton I print with 210 ,pla
@@mohamedyassser7661 I'm using PLA+ at 205. But I havent tried to pull the numbers off
I tried it twice and both times it just carried on. I watched your video twice as well. I'll experiment with Filament Change.
Dang I tryed but the extruder motor wasn’t disabled so I couldn’t change filament, how do you disable it?
No need to disable the motor, just squeeze the spring loaded lever on top of the extruder then you can pull the filament out and reload.
Andrew Newton gotta use the change filament option works way better!!
Is there any reason you aren't using the change filament script?
I'm not clever enough to work it out, or just lazy.
@@AndrewNewton the reason I ask is I am having problems with color change. I always get a blob in the place where the printing starts again. Was wondering if you have had this problem and how-to solve it...
@@IlanPerez I had this too, so I decided to print a draft shield to use it as a kind of purge block. Works brilliant now.
@@jaggedpixel that's what I eventually did as well. I put small disc like items around my prints so that it would always restart from one of those purge blocks. I also found that my printer either wasn't level or when I was swapping the filament I would nudge the z axis down a little. So now when I change filament I am super careful for to move anything
I have the Ender3 V2. For some reason mine restarts printing automatically after 20 seconds. I can't see where to change this in the pause plugin. Thanks for video though.
Dont know sorry.
omg same here, did you ever fix that?
@@flaviamartinez9998 No sorry, I think the current firmware does not support it. I just ended up dividing layer at I want to change by total layers. this gives a percent. And just pause manualy from the machine display. Happy Christmas.
I fail,the black can't go out, what i must do?
Load the black properly so it is ready to extrude
Cool!
573 times thank you!
Once is quite enough thanks
Ah, now I know the house number... are you going to print the street name?
Well done #1
Ha, just send the goods to 573 Australia.
When I pause at layer the print starts right back up again by itself after a few seconds without letting me change filament. Cura 4.6.1
Any ideas why?
Sorry Paul, that's a mystery
Ender 3 needs a firmaware update it wont recognize the gcode pause command
thanks for video. Go for glass bed. much better
I'm using glass covered with masking tape now.
how did you open all the setting in post print, im new
Watch the video again
I use the following gcode for the beep. Add it in with your module. It plays BK (Break) in Morse Code and adds a message to the LCD to change colors.
; Plays BK (Break) in Morse Code
M117 Change Color! ; Adds message to LCD
;---- BK in Morse Code ----
; M300 S1396 P214 ; Dah
M300 S0 P60 ; intra-character spacing
M300 S1396 P60 ; Dit
M300 S0 P60 ; intra-character spacing
M300 S1396 P60 ; Dit
M300 S0 P60 ; intra-character spacing
M300 S1396 P60 ; Dit
M300 S0 P60 ; intra-character spacing
M300 S1396 P214 ; Dah
M300 S0 P60 ; intra-character spacing
M300 S1396 P60 ; Dit
M300 S0 P60 ; intra-character spacing
M300 S1396 P214 ; Dah
M300 S0 P1443 ; word spacing
;---- End - BK in Morse Code ----
The second line of the code should be "M300 S1396 P214 ; Dah" with NO semicolon. Sorry
Thanks for the code Bill. I'll try it
Very nice mate.
Next you have to get Octoprint so you don`t have to use the SD card.
This will give you a little noise. I use at end of print code.
Playing with numbers will give you some different sounds.
M300 S440 P200
M300 S660 P250
M300 S880 P300
Found it on a CHEP video.
reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M300:_Play_beep_sound
Very cool, thanks for that.
Shheeeesshhhh definitely not a 32 bit mobo
Noisy?
Did he flipped me off 11:00
You're having way too much fun, Andrew!
Does the plastic you've used have good UV resistance? I know Australia gets some serious sun exposure, so is your house number going to have to be slathered in pink Factor 50 sun-block cream?
I'm in the north of England, where the 'sun' is actually no more than an urban myth. Sun, schmun: I've never seen it so there ain't no such animal round these parts. How else could I maintain my gorgeous, luscious, delicate peaches-and-cream complexion? (OK, so it's more pork pie and crisps with a pint of shandy followed by apple crumble and custard...)
Is it safe to publish your house number on RUclips? I mean, the world's full of nutters who'll spend hours tracing details from your flying videos and aerial FPV data and putting it all together to find your exact location so that they can come round and buy you a beer...
I'm female so I'm especially wary about giving out any information about my address online. It's a creepy world out there, full of strange people.
Well, I live at number 4, Great Britain.
If anyone can trace me from THAT, I'll not just buy them a beer, I'll buy them the whole bloomin' PUB! ;-)
PLA is biodegradable so might not last long outside, but it will be sheltered under the veranda. Not my house number BTW
Why did you flip the bird at 0:09? That's not nice
Oops sorry.
U stold that from Dr vax 😞 sad one RUclipsr coping the exact same thing
Strange way of looking at it
This video - March 26, 2020. Dr Vax video doing this in Cura - August 12, 2020.
What font for the text did you use?
Bodoni 72