Just did this with my 17 yr. old grandson on his 99 Sierra pickup. We worked in my garage at home. We worked on the floor with truck on jack stands. This video was a like total backflash memory. His truck had a 2 piece driveshaft with a long splined section at the carrier bearing so we didn’t have that issue. This was first time I’ve ever worked on a differential. What a great bonding project.
Your videos are so good. The reason I know that is because I have been working on cars for 53 years. And I have had some of the same problems you have. I like the way you explain things, show all the areas where you have problems and how you get around them. You are not afraid to use a hammer if necessary, last resort. I believe that people watching your videos will do some of these repairs versus watching it done in other video, located in a perfectly clean garage, with all the correct tools, etc. Keep up the good work, I think you are doing a great service for the universe. axles
The thing I appreciate most about this series of videos is, it is being done for your dad. There is a lot of sentimental value in that, and I appreciate that aspect of the job. You’ll have a Lotta fun on the power tour with your dad.
Lol..tears of joy..lol. I have the k1500 Z71 LS 4X4 ,5.7 FULL SIZE PICKUP, MY LAST VEHICLE . NOT selling . Keeping till I die. I bought it in 2008. Took the rear axle diff cover off to change the oil. Darn thing looks brand new. Now metal flakes at all on the magnet. I was shocked at how great the condition was. My friend works at a chevy dealership here for 23 years and all he does is the rear-end rebuilds and drive train. He was astonished at how great that differential looked and the backlash is still perfect..you did a awesome build on the axle. This video is 5 🌟. Thanks for posting. I learned a lot.
As a guy who rebuilds differentials, i love seeing people do these correctly. Hey, i know this is an older video, but if you want a tool that will remove AND re install bearings without destroying them, i highly recommend investing in a tool called yukon Differential bearing install and removel tool. It's pricey around $500 BUT jegs makes on3 for around 2 hundos. Awesome tool man.
9:30 Just want to point out that you were actually looking at the coast side of the ring gear when you did a pattern check, which is the unimportant side. The book is showing you the drive side pattern and you looked at the coast side in the video. 9:42 you can see the drive side is off the toe. So you need to add a shim to the right side. I know it’s easy for the audience to back seat drive your videos but that’s just the nature of it. 😂. You are really doing a great job and are appreciated.
Great video. Really enjoy these in depth videos that some of the issues that can (and likely will) happen. That being said, even watching someone else build one seems to trigger moments of shim and crush bearing flashback irritation to my own issues building them in the past. The only part on a vehicle I can safely say I will outsource every single time.
As a person sets up a bunch of GM gears sets, you will end up having a box of extra shims and you never want to get rid of any of those extra shims, which I can tell you already know that. Good job, Eric !! I ended up ordering a pinion depth kit that helped me quite a lot, of course, the more a person used it the more a person's mind understood just what was going on. I always enjoyed setting up rear differentials, any make, and model.
I just swapped the gears in my Jeep Wrangler for the first time, going from 3.73s to 4.56s, and I used your videos as a HUGE training tool on how to do it. Thanks for being so thorough and explaining all your steps!
Can u recall how many splines those differentials/axles have in 3.73’s by chance thinking of updating my diff but not exactly sure where to source or how or what i can interchange
I’ve never even taken the cover off of a differential. I thank God and you because I just rebuilt a 96 Z71 rear end and it works fine. Keep up the good work
I just rebuilt my 2003 suburban rear diff by following your video. Went together so good...almost. I had a hard time getting that front pinion bearing housing to go in. I also did mine on the ground not a hoist. Would have been sooooo nice. But thanks for the help. I was scared to do it and now I understand how they go together and it's a little less scary. I will be looking to see if you have a video for a transfer case now. Even though my planetary gears were about gone and my fluid had more metal flake than a lowrider paint job. Rebuilding it did not fix my initial problem of a humming noise that gets louder the faster I go.
What an awesome video. By far the best vid ive ever seen on any fix, EVER. Thanks alot, saved me a ton of money and a pile of wrenches being tossed through the wall. Keep the vids coming!
Ah, driveshaft yolks. So much fun. When I had my lifted 87 K Blazer (I miss that truck), I discovered the joys of what happens when you bottom out the driveshaft. Now, I did not do this, the previous owner did. I discovered a leak, which I thought was the transfer case output seal, so I changed it. This, did nothing. Later, I discovered an interesting thing. I don't know if all driveshaft yolks are like this, but this one was. There is actually a plug, in the U joint end of the yolk that seals it. This plug, had been blown out, when the driveshaft had been driven into the transfer case, and it came into contact with the end of the output shaft. So, what did they do? Glued it back in with black RTV of course. I discovered that finding a new plug, is like finding a unicorn. I wound up getting a new yolk instead.
Eric, love your step by step videos. I would have installed the pinion first then made shim adjustments. No wonder shops charge so much to do this. Thanks.
The Milwaukee has a HAND TORQUE feature? Woah, no more overdrive? Drooling now...! Oh, nice to see another Valvoline fan! I use them in everything I own, every engine, gearboxes, grease fittings, and shop floor.
Thank you for making such an in depth video on this. I plan on throwing a Truetrac in my Chrysler 8.25, and you've given me a little more confidence to do it myself.
Heating pinion yolk bearing prior to installing makes it easier to assemble. Induction bearing heater is what I use but torches and temp gun to 250/275. Wait for it to cool and set up 👍 Great video
Sorry for my bad language. But great fucking video. Very professional, you show and explane everything detailed. It's great to see some one like you that enjoys doing what they do. 5 stars rating
When I worked with Chrysler, at their three transmission plants in Kokomo, Indiana, we found the Timken bearings to perform more consistently than the Koyos. We also discovered that you definitely could not run a Timken bearing with a Koyo race. We finally decided to go with the more expensive Timken bearing and race to avoid any future issues.
Nice to see the lack of RTV, Eric. My tech teacher used to tell us to let the gasket do its job - RTV shouldn't be needed with a gasket unless the mating surfaces have been butchered and you need a _temporary_ fix. And later, go back in and fix the problem with the mating surfaces. :-)
Props for the patience you showed.....I have done a few pinion/ring replacements. Bitch of a job. I`m usually looking for tools I threw during this calming job...and alot of bad words spoken...lol messed up quite a few crush sleeves by over tightening. Like you said...you have to creep up on that number.
Great video now I feel a little bit better to try to do my second job. my first was a disaster I got a little more knowledge thanks to you have a great day
Eric, just wanted to say I have watched your stuff now for years. Since you first started in your first small garage. Always good content keep up good work. Parker Automotive and Performance
Curious if others have the same experience: On the gears I've done (not that many) I've found they run the quietest with backlash set to the upper end of spec.
Just cut the output shaft of that transmission.. haha! Just kidding! I have a 10 bolt in my Yukon I'll probably have to rebuild, because they're like that, appreciate the walk through!
AAAaaauuUUGH! THE 1ST video was great, this one taught me so many things I didn't know...but what I DO know is I'll have one DAY to replace my carrier (a planetary grenaded), my Harley is down for rebuilding (only the truck left), and NOW I see I might need shims, bearing puller(s)?, a BOATLOAD of patience, a friggin` PRESS I never got around to building...or a bigger hammer...maybe some scootching VIAGRA, and a six pack! Well, at least I have a magnetic dial indicator.
I had to rebuild me subaru rear diff.... front bearing was a crusty rusty mess, which didn't make sense to me. I replaced every bearing and seal in that thing. Took me three days to get it aligned, a couple hours a day to work on it. Sad thing was, the manual transmission was easier, but most of the bearings in that were good. Just the carrier bearings, front input, pinion output, and 2 needle bearings were worn and bad. I replaced every seal in the transmission as well. After following the rebuild instructions, it was first time was a charm in the transmission.
That is indeed one sweeet axle housing cover - anyone got a moist towelette ? Bummer about the shaft length, but better to know now than any other time-lol As you said this is the world of custom, be ready for anything.
I like your tips on the gear paint it works well for starter motor alignment as it does for differential gears. Nice to know for differentials the only special tools need other then shop press /bearing pullers is the bushing and seal driver kits (or a socket of the right size to do equivalent). Harbor freight has 2 types a plastic kit and your AL based seal driver kit. Anyway good luck with the driveshaft hopefully the new transmission works with that old driveshaft. If not they should beable to fabricate a new custom one if you get appropriate measurements after all it is just a drive shaft
I recall from my exposure to ring gear/pinion gear mesh adjustment is using titanium oxide from an art supply store and mixing in a few drops of blue Dykem® to give a little tint. You will have more than enough gear paint then. In fact, you will be able to paint the entire 360 degrees of the ring gear and check all of the teeth for that optimal "oval" area of contact between the heel and toe and centered between the crest and valley.
Excellent job for someone who isn't a pro and probably better than a lot of pros do it. I'm nit-picking, but you should polish the axles where the axle seals ride as well.
damn , that's going to be an annoyance Eric with the drive shaft being a bit to long , wouldn't have crossed my mind , but it makes sense now . Great video , love these build series .
I always try to get manufacture spec replacement parts, and try to stick with the same brands, but with the right tools you can always make it work. BTW Eric I am going to need more value, 3 ways to put in the Axle seals.... J/k thanks as always. I see the drive shaft is installed... I wonder what you decided or ended up doing, look forward to next one.
Looks like a loverly mesh contact area, i would be very happy with that :-D. I helped a frend with an old car differential, playing the game of musical chairs with shims does take patience, but worth the time though :-).
I'm doing some major updates on a 57 Bel Air. I buy top of the line parts. Every freaking part was slightly off and had to be tweaked. Yes, that is hot rodding.
Ya those c-clips if one didn;t know they where there would make it impossible for one to remove a rear axial. It seems proper shims/washers/alignment is the hardest part of the installation. Complete removal/disassembly of a differential is quite easy but the install you have to not only put the components back correctly but you got to have them align correctly. Definitely for differential work you want a dial gage to check clearances/alignment and a shop press works nice for pressing in/out bearings to.
Thanks eric ! Amazing delivery of masterdom . I find it amazing to see the whole process clearly done with humourfull memories of dealing with it . I would curse all hells at some of these these readjustments. See now thats just the necessary beating i have to take lol keep doing what you do you're the best at it cheers
Eric, Nice work on the " Dad's Truck", last time I seen you go into detail on a rear differential was on your Fox body car,I think that was a Fairmont project,and you won car of the year in hot rod magazine,congratulations on that win. I want to put a LS in my 1999 Mazda b3000 it has 3.73 gears axle code 86- [3.0 vin v. I seen a kit that Summit makes that drops in,to make it an LS which is a FS code ,or a hunt at the bone yard. That drive shaft is now to long on your project, I assume thats because that knuckle stands further out. Didnt quite get the root cause of that. Hugh ..Chicago..metro Ps - It snows a lot in winter here, having that LS would be nice...
Not the right size axle bearing in the kit for a truck you say??? Same with the 74-76 impala and caprice lol. Found that out the hard way as they say. Excellent video man. Learned alot. Thanks for sharing. 🙌🏾
The c clips are cut like washers, with a concave side& a convex side. The concave side goes against the side gear. I found one side in my van installed wrong and it had worn adversly. The axle had play. Flipping it fixed the problem& never recurred. The dealer changed the ratio as part of a towingpackage and was alittle careless reasembling.
Bugger! I was hoping you where also going to do a C clip eliminator with the discs & slippery (though I'm now thinking of a Gear change, locker & new axles with the eliminator kit for my 4wd Suburban) glad I watched all of the video though, I picked up plenty of tips plus I like the cover. Thanks!
Sorry you couldn't "press" it into service because you got "shafted". Good job explaining all the real world glitches. But that's what you get when you "lower" your expectations. Best to you and yours.
plus 1 for using a gasket. that pinion pin bolt should be torqued to hand tight +slightly more. Also, the direction of the C clip does not matter a single bit, as they do not rotate or move within the reliefs. If there is wear, it means your axles are moving in/out too much, and the clips are being allowed to be loose. There was zero wear or shine on mine when I did the 10 bolt in my van, they were just stained with gear oil.
So if we don’t have a presser like you do when you install the bearings to the carrier, we can put them in the oven at 250 degrees to have them expand and drop right in right?
Just did this with my 17 yr. old grandson on his 99 Sierra pickup. We worked in my garage at home. We worked on the floor with truck on jack stands. This video was a like total backflash memory. His truck had a 2 piece driveshaft with a long splined section at the carrier bearing so we didn’t have that issue. This was first time I’ve ever worked on a differential. What a great bonding project.
Keep up the good work. You're doing it right. 👍
Your videos are so good. The reason I know that is because I have been working on cars for 53 years. And I have had some of the same problems you have. I like the way you explain things, show all the areas where you have problems and how you get around them. You are not afraid to use a hammer if necessary, last resort. I believe that people watching your videos will do some of these repairs versus watching it done in other video, located in a perfectly clean garage, with all the correct tools, etc. Keep up the good work, I think you are doing a great service for the universe.
axles
The thing I appreciate most about this series of videos is, it is being done for your dad. There is a lot of sentimental value in that, and I appreciate that aspect of the job. You’ll have a Lotta fun on the power tour with your dad.
Lol..tears of joy..lol. I have the k1500 Z71 LS 4X4 ,5.7 FULL SIZE PICKUP, MY LAST VEHICLE . NOT selling . Keeping till I die. I bought it in 2008. Took the rear axle diff cover off to change the oil. Darn thing looks brand new. Now metal flakes at all on the magnet. I was shocked at how great the condition was. My friend works at a chevy dealership here for 23 years and all he does is the rear-end rebuilds and drive train. He was astonished at how great that differential looked and the backlash is still perfect..you did a awesome build on the axle. This video is 5 🌟. Thanks for posting. I learned a lot.
The satisfaction of doing everything yourself and watch the final results...
As a guy who rebuilds differentials, i love seeing people do these correctly. Hey, i know this is an older video, but if you want a tool that will remove AND re install bearings without destroying them, i highly recommend investing in a tool called yukon Differential bearing install and removel tool. It's pricey around $500 BUT jegs makes on3 for around 2 hundos. Awesome tool man.
This is the kind of stuff I absolutely do not have the attention span/patience for. I stand in awe.
Eric i just rebuilt my 7.5 10 bolt and i wanted you to know you had the most helpful video of all the videos i could find on you tube, thanks a lot.
9:30 Just want to point out that you were actually looking at the coast side of the ring gear when you did a pattern check, which is the unimportant side. The book is showing you the drive side pattern and you looked at the coast side in the video. 9:42 you can see the drive side is off the toe. So you need to add a shim to the right side.
I know it’s easy for the audience to back seat drive your videos but that’s just the nature of it. 😂. You are really doing a great job and are appreciated.
Great video. Really enjoy these in depth videos that some of the issues that can (and likely will) happen. That being said, even watching someone else build one seems to trigger moments of shim and crush bearing flashback irritation to my own issues building them in the past. The only part on a vehicle I can safely say I will outsource every single time.
As a person sets up a bunch of GM gears sets, you will end up having a box of extra shims and you never want to get rid of any of those extra shims, which I can tell you already know that. Good job, Eric !! I ended up ordering a pinion depth kit that helped me quite a lot, of course, the more a person used it the more a person's mind understood just what was going on. I always enjoyed setting up rear differentials, any make, and model.
Danny Cox I’m doing mine today, if I run into trouble can you help? 2009 Escalade ext.
I just swapped the gears in my Jeep Wrangler for the first time, going from 3.73s to 4.56s, and I used your videos as a HUGE training tool on how to do it. Thanks for being so thorough and explaining all your steps!
Can u recall how many splines those differentials/axles have in 3.73’s by chance thinking of updating my diff but not exactly sure where to source or how or what i can interchange
I’ve never even taken the cover off of a differential. I thank God and you because I just rebuilt a 96 Z71 rear end and it works fine. Keep up the good work
I'm in the same boat. I have an 03 Z71 that I'm preparing to dissect and trying to do my homework.
@@80hdUnlimitedhow did it go? I'm about to attempt this on my Z71 as well.
I just rebuilt my 2003 suburban rear diff by following your video. Went together so good...almost. I had a hard time getting that front pinion bearing housing to go in. I also did mine on the ground not a hoist. Would have been sooooo nice. But thanks for the help. I was scared to do it and now I understand how they go together and it's a little less scary. I will be looking to see if you have a video for a transfer case now. Even though my planetary gears were about gone and my fluid had more metal flake than a lowrider paint job. Rebuilding it did not fix my initial problem of a humming noise that gets louder the faster I go.
Great video Eric screwing up the first set of bearings for checking fitment is always the best way to go
Thumbs up for the Bleepin' Jeep nod.
What an awesome video. By far the best vid ive ever seen on any fix, EVER. Thanks alot, saved me a ton of money and a pile of wrenches being tossed through the wall. Keep the vids coming!
The sound of the axel going through the seal satisfying 😂
THROUGH, not THREW
@@IMKINDOFABIGDEAL13 here’s a 🍪
Ah, driveshaft yolks. So much fun. When I had my lifted 87 K Blazer (I miss that truck), I discovered the joys of what happens when you bottom out the driveshaft. Now, I did not do this, the previous owner did. I discovered a leak, which I thought was the transfer case output seal, so I changed it. This, did nothing. Later, I discovered an interesting thing. I don't know if all driveshaft yolks are like this, but this one was. There is actually a plug, in the U joint end of the yolk that seals it. This plug, had been blown out, when the driveshaft had been driven into the transfer case, and it came into contact with the end of the output shaft. So, what did they do? Glued it back in with black RTV of course. I discovered that finding a new plug, is like finding a unicorn. I wound up getting a new yolk instead.
That's actually quite common because of not being able to get new seals as you mentioned.
Man, I'm so glad you are FINALLY doing one of these 90's Chevy trucks. Can't wait for more videos.
Eric, love your step by step videos. I would have installed the pinion first then made shim adjustments. No wonder shops charge so much to do this. Thanks.
The Milwaukee has a HAND TORQUE feature? Woah, no more overdrive? Drooling now...!
Oh, nice to see another Valvoline fan! I use them in everything I own, every engine, gearboxes, grease fittings, and shop floor.
Im glad I watched your video, beforei attempted to rebuild my axle. I don't think I'm skilled enough to try that one. Thanks for your video
Thank you for making such an in depth video on this. I plan on throwing a Truetrac in my Chrysler 8.25, and you've given me a little more confidence to do it myself.
Agree with the end when you get to drive it's so amazing because you know all that hard work payed off
Heating pinion yolk bearing prior to installing makes it easier to assemble. Induction bearing heater is what I use but torches and temp gun to 250/275. Wait for it to cool and set up 👍
Great video
Was it all the amazing technical explanation and useful knowledge that made me subscribe? No, it was the "keep pressing on" joke. Thumbs up man.
you compress the sound so much on your vids that it becomes like an ASMR sort of thing it's actually quite hypnotising
Thank you very much for showing everything, it helps understand what exactly it takes to get it right . Much appreciated. Thank you Eric.
Great camera work is a testament to the great work that you are doing!! Awesome!!
Sorry for my bad language. But great fucking video. Very professional, you show and explane everything detailed. It's great to see some one like you that enjoys doing what they do. 5 stars rating
When I worked with Chrysler, at their three transmission plants in Kokomo, Indiana, we found the Timken bearings to perform more consistently than the Koyos. We also discovered that you definitely could not run a Timken bearing with a Koyo race. We finally decided to go with the more expensive Timken bearing and race to avoid any future issues.
Personally I prefer the Timken bearings as well. Especially since I can't seem to source Koyo bearings individually.
Nice to see the lack of RTV, Eric. My tech teacher used to tell us to let the gasket do its job - RTV shouldn't be needed with a gasket unless the mating surfaces have been butchered and you need a _temporary_ fix. And later, go back in and fix the problem with the mating surfaces. :-)
I 100% agree with your teacher.
It's so much more complicated than I thought...🧐. Very good job so interesting!
Props for the patience you showed.....I have done a few pinion/ring replacements. Bitch of a job. I`m usually looking for tools I threw during this calming job...and alot of bad words spoken...lol messed up quite a few crush sleeves by over tightening. Like you said...you have to creep up on that number.
Thank you cameraman Brian!
Man my friend you are strong!!! Extensions or not I couldn't do that job!! Very knowledgeable!!👍👍👍 great job
I really appreciate this series and will help me when I dive in to the same job this weekend.
Dads truck is coming along very nice thank you Eric from South Africa
I just recently picked up a couple of those Powerbuilt flex-head compact ratchets, two words........ freaking awesome!!!
A cool tool addition to add to your bearing/seal driver tool is adding pvc caps ( ones for plumbing) and using them to drive in seals.
Great video now I feel a little bit better to try to do my second job. my first was a disaster I got a little more knowledge thanks to you have a great day
Eric, just wanted to say I have watched your stuff now for years. Since you first started in your first small garage. Always good content keep up good work. Parker Automotive and Performance
Love the quality of your work so enjoyable to watch.
Thank you!
I love the rear end cover, it's perfect!
thanks for this, my gmt400 is at 373k miles, its third rear end is fresh... and nothing even wrong. I hope to rebuild the diff myself next time.
Curious if others have the same experience: On the gears I've done (not that many) I've found they run the quietest with backlash set to the upper end of spec.
I agree. Tighter gears always seem noisier
thanks bud love the videos it helped me out a bunch especially with all the tolerances and torque specs hope you come back soon i miss the content
The diff cover is gorgeous Eric
man, excellent work. such a pleasure to watch the realness
TIL I will never have the patience to build a differential. Respect to you but holy lord have mercy.
Excellent demonstration, thanks!
Just cut the output shaft of that transmission.. haha! Just kidding! I have a 10 bolt in my Yukon I'll probably have to rebuild, because they're like that, appreciate the walk through!
That swapping the tip thing! Genius
AAAaaauuUUGH! THE 1ST video was great, this one taught me so many things I didn't know...but what I DO know is I'll have one DAY to replace my carrier (a planetary grenaded), my Harley is down for rebuilding (only the truck left), and NOW I see I might need shims, bearing puller(s)?, a BOATLOAD of patience, a friggin` PRESS I never got around to building...or a bigger hammer...maybe some scootching VIAGRA, and a six pack!
Well, at least I have a magnetic dial indicator.
I had to rebuild me subaru rear diff.... front bearing was a crusty rusty mess, which didn't make sense to me. I replaced every bearing and seal in that thing. Took me three days to get it aligned, a couple hours a day to work on it. Sad thing was, the manual transmission was easier, but most of the bearings in that were good. Just the carrier bearings, front input, pinion output, and 2 needle bearings were worn and bad. I replaced every seal in the transmission as well. After following the rebuild instructions, it was first time was a charm in the transmission.
A little tip on the gear fluid filling. If you put a piece of tubing on the end of the cap. You can almost put the bottle fulling upside down.
That is indeed one sweeet axle housing cover - anyone got a moist towelette ? Bummer about the shaft length, but better to know now than any other time-lol As you said this is the world of custom, be ready for anything.
😂 glad he could tighten that pinion nut back on by himself, it took me and 2 other guys to tighten one we did earlier this week to the right spec
I'm glad Brian is back. ^^
I like your tips on the gear paint it works well for starter motor alignment as it does for differential gears. Nice to know for differentials the only special tools need other then shop press /bearing pullers is the bushing and seal driver kits (or a socket of the right size to do equivalent). Harbor freight has 2 types a plastic kit and your AL based seal driver kit. Anyway good luck with the driveshaft hopefully the new transmission works with that old driveshaft. If not they should beable to fabricate a new custom one if you get appropriate measurements after all it is just a drive shaft
Eric,
Great series!
God bless
Paul
I recall from my exposure to ring gear/pinion gear mesh adjustment is using titanium oxide from an art supply store and mixing in a few drops of blue Dykem® to give a little tint. You will have more than enough gear paint then. In fact, you will be able to paint the entire 360 degrees of the ring gear and check all of the teeth for that optimal "oval" area of contact between the heel and toe and centered between the crest and valley.
Excellent job for someone who isn't a pro and probably better than a lot of pros do it. I'm nit-picking, but you should polish the axles where the axle seals ride as well.
I did. I just didn't do it on camera. Thanks for the input.
damn , that's going to be an annoyance Eric with the drive shaft being a bit to long , wouldn't have crossed my mind , but it makes sense now . Great video , love these build series .
That's why I'm here. To make mistakes and point out hidden difficulties so you don't have to worry about them.
I always try to get manufacture spec replacement parts, and try to stick with the same brands, but with the right tools you can always make it work. BTW Eric I am going to need more value, 3 ways to put in the Axle seals.... J/k thanks as always. I see the drive shaft is installed... I wonder what you decided or ended up doing, look forward to next one.
Looks like a loverly mesh contact area, i would be very happy with that :-D.
I helped a frend with an old car differential, playing the game of musical chairs with shims does take patience, but worth the time though :-).
Musical chairs is a very good analogy.
I'm doing some major updates on a 57 Bel Air. I buy top of the line parts. Every freaking part was slightly off and had to be tweaked. Yes, that is hot rodding.
It should run fine. May feel a little clunky but you have good enough engagement to keep the ring from shattering unless you’re trying to run 9s
This answerd a lot of questions. Thanks
Outstanding. Just love it.
I like your saying be safe,have fun and stay dirty
Ya those c-clips if one didn;t know they where there would make it impossible for one to remove a rear axial. It seems proper shims/washers/alignment is the hardest part of the installation. Complete removal/disassembly of a differential is quite easy but the install you have to not only put the components back correctly but you got to have them align correctly. Definitely for differential work you want a dial gage to check clearances/alignment and a shop press works nice for pressing in/out bearings to.
Thanks your vedio mr. eric its a grate dont worry no bodies perpect in this world god bless you eric...
Thanks eric ! Amazing delivery of masterdom . I find it amazing to see the whole process clearly done with humourfull memories of dealing with it . I would curse all hells at some of these these readjustments. See now thats just the necessary beating i have to take lol keep doing what you do you're the best at it cheers
Had to watch part 2. Great video
Eric, Nice work on the " Dad's Truck", last time I seen you go into detail on a rear differential was on your Fox body car,I think that was a Fairmont project,and you won car of the year in hot rod magazine,congratulations on that win. I want to put a LS in my 1999 Mazda b3000 it has 3.73 gears axle code 86- [3.0 vin v. I seen a kit that Summit makes that drops in,to make it an LS which is a FS code ,or a hunt at the bone yard. That drive shaft is now to long on your project, I assume thats because that knuckle stands further out. Didnt quite get the root cause of that. Hugh ..Chicago..metro
Ps - It snows a lot in winter here, having that LS would be nice...
Thank you. Very well documented
The joys of hotroddin Eric,great vid bro
Hello. I believe we met on Power Tour in Norwalk, Ohio, when I was helping to build, and install the Pontiac 455 for the 67 GTO. I subbed.
8:06: Eric's Bob Ross moment. It's just a happy little ring gear...
Not the right size axle bearing in the kit for a truck you say??? Same with the 74-76 impala and caprice lol. Found that out the hard way as they say.
Excellent video man. Learned alot. Thanks for sharing. 🙌🏾
Great video.
The c clips are cut like washers, with a concave side& a convex side. The concave side goes against the side gear. I found one side in my van installed wrong and it had worn adversly. The axle had play. Flipping it fixed the problem& never recurred. The dealer changed the ratio as part of a towingpackage and was alittle careless reasembling.
Bugger! I was hoping you where also going to do a C clip eliminator with the discs & slippery (though I'm now thinking of a Gear change, locker & new axles with the eliminator kit for my 4wd Suburban) glad I watched all of the video though, I picked up plenty of tips plus I like the cover. Thanks!
Sorry you couldn't "press" it into service because you got "shafted". Good job explaining all the real world glitches. But that's what you get when you "lower" your expectations. Best to you and yours.
Great video, Thanks Eric!
Apparently the RC car trick of sticking a piece of paper between the gears to set the mesh won't work here
Great video! I feel like I can rebuild my 7.5 now! Thanks
plus 1 for using a gasket. that pinion pin bolt should be torqued to hand tight +slightly more. Also, the direction of the C clip does not matter a single bit, as they do not rotate or move within the reliefs. If there is wear, it means your axles are moving in/out too much, and the clips are being allowed to be loose. There was zero wear or shine on mine when I did the 10 bolt in my van, they were just stained with gear oil.
real deal practical knowledge the best thank you
Thanks for the videos Eric
Just use a short piece of clear hose on the oil bottle. I do that with my motorcycle when I do the final drive and transmission.
Dude thanks so much for this video I watched alot of videos an this is the best video ive seen I'm going too try this for the firsttime thank u again
Good Morning Eric.
Morning!
thanks bos a lot knowlege you share im enjoy watching. from philippines
Thanks so much! Your videos are great!👍👍
Top notch Eric.
Oooh 40 minutes, oh yeah!
So if we don’t have a presser like you do when you install the bearings to the carrier, we can put them in the oven at 250 degrees to have them expand and drop right in right?