Note for young guys just entering the automotive repair business. Pay attention here and to this man's channel. There are tips and tricks from years of turning wrenches that you can't get anywhere else.
Years of turning wrenches huh? But yet you never got to touch diesel and aircraft power plants or turbines....naaa chevy is easy to disassemble and crybaby can't take the simple 350 apart. That's called an airhead
Yep, sure are tips and tricks, best one is to find someone that actually understands how an engine is assembled and actually works. Whats worse, anybody notice it had a Fram non-filter on it?
Eric, just wanted to say thanks for your work and share a story with you. Being a gearhead an amateur mechanic my enjoyment of cars has rubbed off on my 3 year old son. A couple of nights ago around his bed time I started this video and he sits down in my lap, says “engine!”, and relaxes as we both watch the video until he falls asleep. It was a nice little bonding moment and far more entertaining for me than our standard routine involving nursery rhymes. Thanks again for the great videos, we wish you all the best.
This video sure brings back my memories of how many small block Chevys I use to build back in my Day. I am an older 67-year-old Hot Rodder and enjoy watching you do what I use to love to do. Yea, we all know that it's a job to overhaul an engine and disassemble, but the day when it's all over and you fire that baby up, it's ALL worth every second to hear what you have created, I just wanted you to know, I left a comment on one of your older vids about some trouble I'm having on a 2003 Dodge Caravan that my wife has just bought. I am having a time with that piece of junk. Great job, Eric, love your videos !! You remind me of myself back in my Day when I had my own garage and did about everything possible, the only thing I never got to was tearing down an auto transmission and rebuilding those. I used to have some of those number stamp bits to help tell me where the rods and main caps went back on when I stamped the numbers on whatever, main caps, rods, but since you are having the machine shop redo most of everything, it's probably not needed.
I recently tore down an ‘85 305 CID Chevy with 290k miles on it. It was still running great, just leaking oil like a sieve. Only .003” wear in the cylinders and the bearings looked great. Performance shop said reboring wasn’t even needed, so I just cleaned up the short block, rehoned, re-ringed and replaced the stock pistons. Installed a mild cam, double gear timing chain, new lifters and heavy duty oil pump. Removed factory ECM and Rochester feedback carb and replaced with MSD electronic ignition, Edelbrock intake and carb, ceramic headers, and converter -free performance exhaust. Now she runs beautifully, has gained about 50 hp and sounds like a stock racing car in my fully restored ‘85 Firebird. I love these short block Chevy engines. I’ve already owned bunches of them and completely rebuilt two 327’s and a 305. Piece of cake. Treat em right and they run forever. I currently have a 5.7L Vortec in my 1999 4WD Tahoe with only 62K miles on it.....purrs like a kitten, but pulls like a mule. I’ll keep that beautiful truck going until I’m six foot under.
I don’t know why am still amazed that today’s modern electric tools have the torque to disassemble things versus when I remember as a kid you had to use air tools ETCG1 !
I liked how you didnt hide "stupid moves" but then explained a better way. Also appreciate how you took the time to show parts you were not using as well as how to "keep & store" those if one was...
I have a 93' Silverado 1500 with a 350 five speed manual. The truck is rusted to $#!t but it runs and drives like a dream. My buddy's dad passed away and he used to let me borrow it all the time so his mom sold me the truck for $500. I don't think the truck is restorable but I thought about maybe rebuilding the engine and putting it in a project vehicle of some sort. I would have to probably do all this at my buddy Steve's because he has all the equipment I would need. But I figured I'd watch a quick video on the tear down process. Excellent video man.
It was always kind and well mannered through all the abuse it got. It was always a "willing performer." I love that phrase, used by car reviewers to say it was totally gutless.
This was probably the most interesting engine tear-down video I've ever watched. Of course I've only been able to sit through about three. Still a big fan of ETCG!!!
I got my dad commuter car when I was in high school. Later in life when I built a new engine for it I took the old cam and polished it up with a wire brush and made it into a desk lamp and gave it to my dad for Christmas. figured the cam got him to work for 10 years it needed a better home then the trash.
The quick connect for the heater hose that you broke off was a stupid idea. Fairly prone to leaking. What I did on my 91 was went to advance and found a nipple that screwed in so I could use a house and clamps. Haven't had a leak since doing that. More trustworthy.
i have a1994 chevy pu ,used 88-94 w tbi fuel feed.12psi fuel pressure,best ever,easy cheap parts ,parts everywhere,i tore mine down to short block,brought back up,labor of love!i battled same pa pully
When talking 2-bolt vs. 4-bolt, it primarily comes down to GVW. 2-bolts were used up to 8500, 4-bolt on 8500+. There were some variances over the years, but generally speaking that's what you'd see. Also, the idea that the 4-bolt is 'stronger' than the 2-bolt is a misconception. This is due to the fact that the bolts are not 'splayed' (going in at an angle to each other) into the block, but rather go down parallel. Due to this design, the bolts closest to the crank are still handling the majority of the load. You'll notice that modern engines that are built with 4 and even 6 bolt mains have the bolts splayed.
great video, reminded me of when I had to repair my old cars. tore apart many bits and bobs in my day just keeping my beasts on the road. Never did too much work on my chevy engines so it was cool seeing a full tear down of one. The one I worked on the longest was the 307 olds engine in my 82 Buick. Great engine, sounded awesome, that was about it, loved that Q-Jet WOT sound on the highway, made that 150hp sing! I miss that sound, I certainly don't miss a 4000+ pound car with 150 hp engine that got 12 MPG on a fresh tuneup.
You should pick up motors that are being given away for free and rebuild it to have in case you evet need it. Whats amazing about mechanic work is how when everyone else is talking about what they did over the weekend youll be thinking about your project.
Trying to get into all things cars as my hobby. Wish I had a neighbor like you where I could just sit in the background cleaning up and absorbing the knowledge.
I'll just add ... many times I've stripped these SBCs down, and never once did I take the rockers out to get the heads off. You can use a thin wall 5/8 socket; it will fit right between the rockers. That two bolt block will probably provide you with a stronger platform than a factory 4 bolt block will, if you machine the block for aftermarket main caps.
My girl gets so mad when I wanna keep lil hoses and stuff like that because she says it makes it cluttered, but when she wants something fixed and I use a piece of something I kept then she’s happy lol
My 98 Chevy Z71 with the 5.7 350 has 304,000 miles on it and still running strong. It’s almost time to rebuild my engine, seals are starting to get bad. But for the age and mileage I definitely can’t complain. 5.7’s are definitely some of the best engines Chevy has produced.
I have the same tool you used to remove the power steering pulley. Only used it once because of the same issue you had. Next time I'll know what to do. Thanks Eric.
I've been considering doing this to my 97 Yukon and you're actually scaring me away from it. I've been fantasizing that this would be a quick weekend thing and now I see that it's more like a quick month long thing.
Eric you’re the best I’m from Texas and I love to watch your shows thank you very much to how to take apart Chevy engine rebuild keep up the great work
Just bought a 79 Z28. I wanted to better understand the engine. No I am no mechanic and just wanted to understand better what I am to actually to maintain or have maintained for good working order.. I appreciate this education. Thank you.
Hey when you were knocking the rest of lifters out, looked like the block was talking a major dump🤣🤣 I really enjoyed hanging out with you here on your channel thanks Eric...😎✌️
I believe every automotive engineer should have to work in a repair shop, before being allowed to design car-trucks. Maybe that would make them be easier to repair....Hal
When you were knocking out the lifters I thought "lifters from heav - no wait they've been somewhere else a little South of there"! Can't wait to see the build!!!
Eric! You're doing it all wrong! The AC bolts usually have a flat side to slip them off from around the clutch. Great stuff as always. Always happy to see a new video.
Once again your videos are helping me out. I'm about to disassemble the exact same engine. I remember watching videos of you working on an old Honda Accord and it inspired me to get one, its now my long term restoration project. Thanks for sharing your knowledge man
I throughly enjoyed watching you tear down the Chevy engine. That front accessory drive mount is pretty ingenious, considering all the stuff they had to mount to the engine. Compare to a 1955 era small block, simplicity defined.
The full tear down video was very insightful, I was trying to verify the 2 coolant drain plug locations on the block. Trying to avoid making a mess to keep all the pets and critters healthy!
@@Amorget the 350 was originally designed in the late 60's and the small block back in the late 1950's. small revisions were made over the years but it is basically the same block.
@@mikeread2974 Depends on which specific Pontiac built in '68, really. But in general, I think many of Pontiac's late 60's model vehicles were pretty cool, IMHO. It was an interesting time because not only was John DeLorean one of the chief engineers for the Pontiac division, but in the late 60's actually became head over the entire Pontiac division at GM. Pontiac definitely had some very interesting vehicles in their lineup in the late 60's. The Pontiac GTO is a pretty amazing car (IMO) and was Motor Trend's Car of the Year in 1968. The late 60's ('67 I believe) also saw the birth and first generation of the Pontiac Firebird, with the Firebird Trans Am coming to market in '69. It was a time period where Pontiac really found it's "name" among the hierarchy of the other GM brands at the time. Pontiac became known (during this time) as GM's performance division. It's sad, really, because they certainly didn't retain this niche moving forward - especially in the 80's and beyond. It's also interesting because Pontiac vehicles in this time period actually all used engines designed and built by the Pontiac division at GM. Later Pontiac (along with most of GMs other divisions) would use engines designed and built by other divisions within GM, such as Chevrolet and Buick.
@@nopenottalib4366 asking because I got my hands on a 68 LeMans and dont know a lot about it. I am going to restore it to close as original as I can. Has the original motor and trans
@@mikeread2974 Ah, OK - that makes sense. Well that's definitely a gem worth restoring. Nice piece of American history in that car. Is yours the two or four door?
I knew the manifold bolts would come right out... I was just as surprised on mine. As for 2-Bolt/4-Bolt... 1500/SUV usually 2 bolt and 2500/3500 4-bolt. Sometimes 1500s and SUVs got 4 bolt blocks but that wasn't that common... Splayed mains are stronger anyway. :)
@@ratherbeboating10 not really....Most of that shit is required for power adders like NOS .... Turbos and supercharger...And of course as always it matters who is driving it...If you're putting slicks and tracking it and launching hard at 5000RPM you're probably gonna break somethin...Most street cars do not need forged bottom ends and 4 bolt mains....I made sure I got em when I swapped my vette engine but I got a deal...$650 for a brand new GM short block ...new Bare 4 bolt main blocks from Summit Racing are $750
@@bilbobaggins4710 Exactly. And besides, if I were building anything i was thinking about throwing boost at I probably wouldn't be using a stock block. But yea. Two bolt is way more than enough for most people.
You’re even funnier when you’re low key angry Eric. Not that I’m asking for more of that, but sometimes it perks things up for us, your mass following :).
Nice job, brother! To your comment about stuff on top of stuff ... I think GM has been engineering things this way to discourage people from working on their own stuff for the past 2+ decades. For years they've been trying to funnel the general public into their overpriced service departments. These days, they can do that easily with reprogramming and such. So glad I have the ability to work on my own stuff, especially today!
Just changed serpentine belt on 05 Malibu. It cannot be an accident that the hole in the tensioner for inserting the serpentine tool is at a 45 degree angle, where the tool hits the frame or the control arm and can't be used. 10 minute job becomes a very challenging 30 minute job. We've probably all seem such interference a hundred times!
@@jamesengland7461 my 01 sunfire is like that. you have to support the engine and remove the motor mount to take off the belt. turned an easy 10 minute idler pully job into MUCH longer. tensioner was SO MUCH worse. have to jack the whole engine up pretty far to get the bolt out and in.
I believe we used to loosen the rocker ball nuts and move the rockers to the side to access those head bolts. I did see the water temp sender in the driver side head. Those two bolt holes on the front by the timing chain cover were originally for the 1955-57 Chevy motor mounts.
Watching your 5.7l tear down video freaked me out with some unnecessary things removed and the improper use of a harmonic balancer puller the even side was backwards bolts were on the contour side not the flat even side wow and you looked great and well edited good luck props to you be careful what you show our future mechanics..
Done this exact teardown on a 91 350 but a lot more foul language. Lots more! The same situation with putting it on the stand and then sliding off of the crane legs. That did not go as well for me. Good job keep it coming!
Great video.. that’s what I like about your channel the most Eric, even though you are human and make mistakes just like everybody else you’re not scared to put them out there. I know a lot of people that if that head would’ve fell off that block, nobody else would’ve known. But that’s what makes you Eric the car guy and that’s why we love you great show can’t wait to see the rest!!! are you gonna run AC with the new engine, and will the old one work?
Currently tearing down a Chevy sbc. Not no expert and the video is super helpful! The only thing I would like to add or say is the exhaust Manifold bolts. Before putting any type of impact or air tool, Just personally I’d break the bolts with a ratchet before using any air tools/impact. If you’re planning on reusing the heads it’s a good idea to at least break them before air tools. 🙌🏽
Prior to the LS engines, SBCs did not use metric bolts. The only exceptions are sometimes the accessory drive and torque converter bolts. Bellhousing bolts are 9/16, pan bolts are 1/2 and 7/16 (sometimes 3/8).
Converting to four bolt mains is definitely an improvement over two bolt or even studs, but that wasn’t the reason for the comment as that bit of info is obvious to even the person with no engineering knowledge above how to change a lightbulb. The info was the possibility of the conversion and the requirement of line boring if you do so. Just a ruff estimate of relative strength, two bolts will give you two tonne of clamping force four will give you upto eight tonnes, studs will give you two point six tonnes , four studs will give you ?.. obviously those numbers are BS but the difference in strength isn’t.
I'm so glad you have an impact driver. This video could have been 12 hr long. Just kidding. I now know I won't be taking my 350 out of my Tahoe. I will just drive it till it stops running.
Eric, the end of this video reminded me of something... I have always wondered how long is "a long time" for an engine to sit... in other words, how long before the next startup becomes a true dry start. Can you give me an approximate answer? I would guess 3 months or more. Thanks for the awesome videos :)
There is always some oil film on everything inside a motor that has been run. I consider dry start an old wifes tale. Even a fresh new motor is assembled with plenty of assembly lube. Pre-oiling a motor for first start is really only to get oil into the oil pump and oil passages. There are electric and vacuum pre-oilers that can be installed for the paranoid. If you plan to sit a motor for a long time, changing the oil is #1, and spraying wd-40 in each cylinder. loosening the rocker arms to allow all the valves to close will keep moisture and critters from getting inside the pistons. Tape/cover every hole into the motor.
At 7:30 you used the puller bracket upside down. The meatier section goes in so that your bolt heads are flat on the puller bracket top and the bottom provides force compression strength from the bolts to the threaded shaft closer to the bolt thread engagement.
I've done this over and over over the years. It is always a dirty job. I'm surprised the Car Guy is not swapping in a late LS based takeout truck motor. More horse power, better mileage and about the same money as rebuilding a 350 and transmission.
Note for young guys just entering the automotive repair business. Pay attention here and to this man's channel. There are tips and tricks from years of turning wrenches that you can't get anywhere else.
I learned alot at 18:41 lol
The biggest tip being,, not to let this guy nowhere near your vehicle 💯
Years of turning wrenches huh? But yet you never got to touch diesel and aircraft power plants or turbines....naaa chevy is easy to disassemble and crybaby can't take the simple 350 apart. That's called an airhead
Yup.
Yep, sure are tips and tricks, best one is to find someone that actually understands how an engine is assembled and actually works.
Whats worse, anybody notice it had a Fram non-filter on it?
Eric, just wanted to say thanks for your work and share a story with you. Being a gearhead an amateur mechanic my enjoyment of cars has rubbed off on my 3 year old son. A couple of nights ago around his bed time I started this video and he sits down in my lap, says “engine!”, and relaxes as we both watch the video until he falls asleep. It was a nice little bonding moment and far more entertaining for me than our standard routine involving nursery rhymes. Thanks again for the great videos, we wish you all the best.
This video sure brings back my memories of how many small block Chevys I use to build back in my Day. I am an older 67-year-old Hot Rodder and enjoy watching you do what I use to love to do. Yea, we all know that it's a job to overhaul an engine and disassemble, but the day when it's all over and you fire that baby up, it's ALL worth every second to hear what you have created, I just wanted you to know, I left a comment on one of your older vids about some trouble I'm having on a 2003 Dodge Caravan that my wife has just bought. I am having a time with that piece of junk. Great job, Eric, love your videos !! You remind me of myself back in my Day when I had my own garage and did about everything possible, the only thing I never got to was tearing down an auto transmission and rebuilding those. I used to have some of those number stamp bits to help tell me where the rods and main caps went back on when I stamped the numbers on whatever, main caps, rods, but since you are having the machine shop redo most of everything, it's probably not needed.
notice he kept them all in perfect order and direction then reinstalled them the same way?
I recently tore down an ‘85 305 CID Chevy with 290k miles on it. It was still running great, just leaking oil like a sieve. Only .003” wear in the cylinders and the bearings looked great. Performance shop said reboring wasn’t even needed, so I just cleaned up the short block, rehoned, re-ringed and replaced the stock pistons. Installed a mild cam, double gear timing chain, new lifters and heavy duty oil pump. Removed factory ECM and Rochester feedback carb and replaced with MSD electronic ignition, Edelbrock intake and carb, ceramic headers, and converter -free performance exhaust. Now she runs beautifully, has gained about 50 hp and sounds like a stock racing car in my fully restored ‘85 Firebird. I love these short block Chevy engines. I’ve already owned bunches of them and completely rebuilt two 327’s and a 305. Piece of cake. Treat em right and they run forever. I currently have a 5.7L Vortec in my 1999 4WD Tahoe with only 62K miles on it.....purrs like a kitten, but pulls like a mule. I’ll keep that beautiful truck going until I’m six foot under.
ETCG and a Engine teardown first thing in the morning, the right way to start my day before getting married!!! Thank you sir!!
Congratulations!
EricTheCarGuy Thank you sir, everything went great! Next will be to rebuild a 1977 triumph bonnevile 750, yes, she married two projects lol
belated congratulations!
Oblithian thank you!
Dark Coven thank you!!
Awesome teardown! The sarcasm is strong in this episode 😂
Sarcasm is MANDATORY in automotive!
Sarcasm has a powerful effect on weak minds.
You noticed a bit
Chevy 350 are one of the easiest blocks to disassemble and the guy is already complaining. Sounds like that silver spoon is still shining
I don’t know why am still amazed that today’s modern electric tools have the torque to disassemble things versus when I remember as a kid you had to use air tools ETCG1 !
I liked how you didnt hide "stupid moves" but then explained a better way. Also appreciate how you took the time to show parts you were not using as well as how to "keep & store" those if one was...
I have a 93' Silverado 1500 with a 350 five speed manual. The truck is rusted to $#!t but it runs and drives like a dream. My buddy's dad passed away and he used to let me borrow it all the time so his mom sold me the truck for $500. I don't think the truck is restorable but I thought about maybe rebuilding the engine and putting it in a project vehicle of some sort. I would have to probably do all this at my buddy Steve's because he has all the equipment I would need. But I figured I'd watch a quick video on the tear down process. Excellent video man.
Ah, the Chev 350 small block - the LS you had before there was an LS. :-)
RIP ETCG's Dads truck engine (1990-2019) "It towed a boat and stuff"
It was always kind and well mannered through all the abuse it got. It was always a "willing performer." I love that phrase, used by car reviewers to say it was totally gutless.
And LOTS of stuff !
🤣
Not anymore it's not.
How many miles did it have?
This was probably the most interesting engine tear-down video I've ever watched. Of course I've only been able to sit through about three. Still a big fan of ETCG!!!
I got my dad commuter car when I was in high school. Later in life when I built a new engine for it I took the old cam and polished it up with a wire brush and made it into a desk lamp and gave it to my dad for Christmas. figured the cam got him to work for 10 years it needed a better home then the trash.
The quick connect for the heater hose that you broke off was a stupid idea. Fairly prone to leaking. What I did on my 91 was went to advance and found a nipple that screwed in so I could use a house and clamps. Haven't had a leak since doing that. More trustworthy.
The zip tie spacers for the spark plug cables. I came up with the same idea. Other guys at the shop thought I was a genius lol.
i have a1994 chevy pu ,used 88-94 w tbi fuel feed.12psi fuel pressure,best ever,easy cheap parts ,parts everywhere,i tore mine down to short block,brought back up,labor of love!i battled same pa pully
When talking 2-bolt vs. 4-bolt, it primarily comes down to GVW. 2-bolts were used up to 8500, 4-bolt on 8500+. There were some variances over the years, but generally speaking that's what you'd see.
Also, the idea that the 4-bolt is 'stronger' than the 2-bolt is a misconception. This is due to the fact that the bolts are not 'splayed' (going in at an angle to each other) into the block, but rather go down parallel. Due to this design, the bolts closest to the crank are still handling the majority of the load. You'll notice that modern engines that are built with 4 and even 6 bolt mains have the bolts splayed.
It's my understanding that the 4 bolt is more of a big block thing.
@@grumpygamer4883 Chevy offered 4 bolt blocks in the small blocks and big blocks
Nice COLD beer and sit down to watch Eric the Car Guy - luvly jubbly, get in !!
AH HA! I HAVE IT! My idea to retire rich! I'll make a fortune!
I'll open a hardware store next to Eric's shop!
you almost cant make a living... much less get rich :P
@@sudio2798 That sound you heard? It's the joke going over your head.
@@deathproofpony apparently it went over yours as well
Other than the complete inefficiency and lack of power, there was nothing wrong with that engine! Good on ya for tearing it down!
great video, reminded me of when I had to repair my old cars. tore apart many bits and bobs in my day just keeping my beasts on the road. Never did too much work on my chevy engines so it was cool seeing a full tear down of one. The one I worked on the longest was the 307 olds engine in my 82 Buick. Great engine, sounded awesome, that was about it, loved that Q-Jet WOT sound on the highway, made that 150hp sing! I miss that sound, I certainly don't miss a 4000+ pound car with 150 hp engine that got 12 MPG on a fresh tuneup.
Thank you for your time. It is really nice.
I love watching these videos! You make it look so easy! I almost want to go get an engine to teardown. Just because.
I have a car need fixing a Chevy Impala 4 door the motor leak all the oil out and the heads got hot
You should pick up motors that are being given away for free and rebuild it to have in case you evet need it. Whats amazing about mechanic work is how when everyone else is talking about what they did over the weekend youll be thinking about your project.
@@dmitrikguajardo6006 where can I find a 5.7 vortec for free 😂
🙏🦾
@@seabass22 bro rt I got a free 454 from a trashed out RV. It had 34,000 miles on it! 😎
Trying to get into all things cars as my hobby. Wish I had a neighbor like you where I could just sit in the background cleaning up and absorbing the knowledge.
I don't get it... Y is this sooo satisfying to watch? I love the sound of the impact wrench the oil leaking the metal on metal clanking. Amazing
I'll just add ... many times I've stripped these SBCs down, and never once did I take the rockers out to get the heads off. You can use a thin wall 5/8 socket; it will fit right between the rockers.
That two bolt block will probably provide you with a stronger platform than a factory 4 bolt block will, if you machine the block for aftermarket main caps.
My girl gets so mad when I wanna keep lil hoses and stuff like that because she says it makes it cluttered, but when she wants something fixed and I use a piece of something I kept then she’s happy lol
Women 😂
My 98 Chevy Z71 with the 5.7 350 has 304,000 miles on it and still running strong. It’s almost time to rebuild my engine, seals are starting to get bad. But for the age and mileage I definitely can’t complain. 5.7’s are definitely some of the best engines Chevy has produced.
I have the same tool you used to remove the power steering pulley. Only used it once because of the same issue you had. Next time I'll know what to do. Thanks Eric.
I've been considering doing this to my 97 Yukon and you're actually scaring me away from it. I've been fantasizing that this would be a quick weekend thing and now I see that it's more like a quick month long thing.
Eric you’re the best I’m from Texas and I love to watch your shows thank you very much to how to take apart Chevy engine rebuild keep up the great work
Just bought a 79 Z28. I wanted to better understand the engine. No I am no mechanic and just wanted to understand better what I am to actually to maintain or have maintained for good working order.. I appreciate this education. Thank you.
Thanks for posting. I need to do this to a small block I have sometime. That is down on the list, but needs to be done.
Most in depth Ericthecarguy video I have watched, I'm impressed sir, you really know what you are doing AND maintain the humor attitude! thank you
Got to love the zip-tie wire separators
Hey when you were knocking the rest of lifters out, looked like the block was talking a major dump🤣🤣 I really enjoyed hanging out with you here on your channel thanks Eric...😎✌️
Thank God for electric impacts
I have cordless impacts at work. Mechanic best friend
Fuck electric
Here I am at 1:47 AM central time , in San Antonio, sitting on my couch watching this tear down because yaaa boy cannot sleep.. GREAT FOOTAGE!
Love it Eric. Appreciate you showing all of the mistakes and "oh hey next time do this" moments! It's really helpful!
@Damon Cross who knows for sure... I definitely make mistakes with things I've done hundreds of times as well 😅
great video! i have the 5.7L in my 95 tahoe. solid as a rock, 212,000 miles.
345,000 on mine
Eric I love your work and the way you think. This is the greatest serious comedy of ever seen in my life. 😂🤣💖 Workout that aggression.
That heater hose nipple is a common problem for those trucks and everyone sells a replacement upgrade nipple and a tool to get the end out.
ditto, they turn to powder and snap when looked at from afar :))
I believe every automotive engineer should have to work in a repair shop, before being allowed to design car-trucks. Maybe that would make them be easier to repair....Hal
couldnt agree more! ive said that for years
They wouldn't last a day.
That goes for any industry.
When you were knocking out the lifters I thought "lifters from heav - no wait they've been somewhere else a little South of there"! Can't wait to see the build!!!
"There's four of them on this side and four on the other" Sir, I snarfed my coffee out my nose!
Eric, Chris, and Scotty are the holy trinity of DIY auto repair
Really enjoying this teardown video. Pretty cool stuff! Thanks for posting all the good videos Eric
These engine teardown videos are so damn therapeutic
Eric! You're doing it all wrong! The AC bolts usually have a flat side to slip them off from around the clutch. Great stuff as always. Always happy to see a new video.
I didn’t see a flat side, did you?
@@ericthecarguy Yessir. 6:28
Likely you're right, but I still needed to remove the bracket anyway.
@@ericthecarguy Roger that
@@ericthecarguy look closer.
Once again your videos are helping me out. I'm about to disassemble the exact same engine. I remember watching videos of you working on an old Honda Accord and it inspired me to get one, its now my long term restoration project. Thanks for sharing your knowledge man
"There's four of them on this side and four on the other." Sounds like the intro to a Sesame Street skit.
I'll never ever tear down an engine, but I liked watching you do it.
I just went through taking off the R4 compressor and there is a flat side on the bolts that allow you to get them past the clutch without removing it.
sounds like the previous mechanic applied the cut off wheel/grinder to them for you ;)
I know I'm not the only one who did just that
I throughly enjoyed watching you tear down the Chevy engine. That front accessory drive mount is pretty ingenious, considering all the stuff they had to mount to the engine. Compare to a 1955 era small block, simplicity defined.
yup, knock sensor in coolant passage, that's the block drain hole, what better place to add a sensor than an existing threaded hole...
The full tear down video was very insightful, I was trying to verify the 2 coolant drain plug locations on the block. Trying to avoid making a mess to keep all the pets and critters healthy!
It's like every accessory was an after thought lol bracket here, piece block access to bolt there.
Yeah, it was like they designed the block back in the 50's and kept the same basic block all the way into the 00's....
@@Amorget the 350 was originally designed in the late 60's and the small block back in the late 1950's. small revisions were made over the years but it is basically the same block.
Great video - and thanks for not putting some random music over top of it. I much prefer the "natural" sound of engine work.
Very interesting, I saw the entire episode since my dad has a 1994 Suburban with the same engine. Still running at 290,000 miles.
GM had a very strange track record. Their stuff was either 100% legit ... or it was 100% garbage. No in-betweens.
@@nopenottalib4366 was the 68 pontiac one of the good ones in your opinion?
@@mikeread2974 Depends on which specific Pontiac built in '68, really. But in general, I think many of Pontiac's late 60's model vehicles were pretty cool, IMHO. It was an interesting time because not only was John DeLorean one of the chief engineers for the Pontiac division, but in the late 60's actually became head over the entire Pontiac division at GM. Pontiac definitely had some very interesting vehicles in their lineup in the late 60's. The Pontiac GTO is a pretty amazing car (IMO) and was Motor Trend's Car of the Year in 1968. The late 60's ('67 I believe) also saw the birth and first generation of the Pontiac Firebird, with the Firebird Trans Am coming to market in '69. It was a time period where Pontiac really found it's "name" among the hierarchy of the other GM brands at the time. Pontiac became known (during this time) as GM's performance division. It's sad, really, because they certainly didn't retain this niche moving forward - especially in the 80's and beyond. It's also interesting because Pontiac vehicles in this time period actually all used engines designed and built by the Pontiac division at GM. Later Pontiac (along with most of GMs other divisions) would use engines designed and built by other divisions within GM, such as Chevrolet and Buick.
@@nopenottalib4366 asking because I got my hands on a 68 LeMans and dont know a lot about it. I am going to restore it to close as original as I can. Has the original motor and trans
@@mikeread2974 Ah, OK - that makes sense. Well that's definitely a gem worth restoring. Nice piece of American history in that car. Is yours the two or four door?
This video reminds me of my brother, who was great at taking things apart but could never seem to get things back together again.
I knew the manifold bolts would come right out... I was just as surprised on mine. As for 2-Bolt/4-Bolt... 1500/SUV usually 2 bolt and 2500/3500 4-bolt. Sometimes 1500s and SUVs got 4 bolt blocks but that wasn't that common... Splayed mains are stronger anyway. :)
Yep and two bolt mains will handle 500hp...I'm sure the old man won't rev it to 8K RPM anyway
@@bilbobaggins4710 Well that also depends on who and what is building it/being built. ;)
@@ratherbeboating10 not really....Most of that shit is required for power adders like NOS .... Turbos and supercharger...And of course as always it matters who is driving it...If you're putting slicks and tracking it and launching hard at 5000RPM you're probably gonna break somethin...Most street cars do not need forged bottom ends and 4 bolt mains....I made sure I got em when I swapped my vette engine but I got a deal...$650 for a brand new GM short block ...new Bare 4 bolt main blocks from Summit Racing are $750
@@bilbobaggins4710 Exactly. And besides, if I were building anything i was thinking about throwing boost at I probably wouldn't be using a stock block. But yea. Two bolt is way more than enough for most people.
Man, when I have a bad day I just watch this video and everything's roses!
You’re even funnier when you’re low key angry Eric. Not that I’m asking for more of that, but sometimes it perks things up for us, your mass following :).
This is all I do all day long as a mechanic..I just had to watch the whole thing and I’ll have to watch the one where you put it back together😊👍
Eric, you're wrecking everything! ;-)
I just wanted to see the pile of stuff that came off the engine afterwards.
I used to get greasy doin' this kinda' thing...It's a Kick
watchin' someone ELSE toil away.
Nice job, Car guy.
Nice job, brother!
To your comment about stuff on top of stuff ... I think GM has been engineering things this way to discourage people from working on their own stuff for the past 2+ decades. For years they've been trying to funnel the general public into their overpriced service departments. These days, they can do that easily with reprogramming and such. So glad I have the ability to work on my own stuff, especially today!
Just changed serpentine belt on 05 Malibu. It cannot be an accident that the hole in the tensioner for inserting the serpentine tool is at a 45 degree angle, where the tool hits the frame or the control arm and can't be used. 10 minute job becomes a very challenging 30 minute job. We've probably all seem such interference a hundred times!
@@jamesengland7461 my 01 sunfire is like that. you have to support the engine and remove the motor mount to take off the belt. turned an easy 10 minute idler pully job into MUCH longer. tensioner was SO MUCH worse. have to jack the whole engine up pretty far to get the bolt out and in.
That's terrible!
working on my 95 k1500, full rear axle and and engine rebuild, so glad for the videos! dig your humor too, cheers.
Personally, I've always believed much of the difficulties in
engineering were INTENTIONAL!
I believe we used to loosen the rocker ball nuts and move the rockers to the side to access those head bolts. I did see the water temp sender in the driver side head. Those two bolt holes on the front by the timing chain cover were originally for the 1955-57 Chevy motor mounts.
If the bolts are parallel to the clutch on the A/C they will come right out.
Watching your 5.7l tear down video freaked me out with some unnecessary things removed and the improper use of a harmonic balancer puller the even side was backwards bolts were on the contour side not the flat even side wow and you looked great and well edited good luck props to you be careful what you show our future mechanics..
If I was a crazy person I'd make an edit of every time Eric says 'fasteners'
After watching this video, I can only appreciate the simplicity of the Gen V LT engine on my Silverado
For 30 years that engine looks in pristine condition O_O
Classic small block Chevy. Mine has about 300k on it at the moment, stock everything. Purrs like a kitten.
@@TripleTapHK GM was an "all the way" company. It was either "all the way" great, or it was "all the way" complete garbage.
Put this engine into a company's delivery van, and it will be destroyed in a few years.
Um... there are a ton of delivery vans with Small Block Chevy's in them so...
@@TripleTapHK So ............... ya.
Done this exact teardown on a 91 350 but a lot more foul language. Lots more! The same situation with putting it on the stand and then sliding off of the crane legs. That did not go as well for me. Good job keep it coming!
Just use a C clamp on the pulley removing tool to prevent spreading.
There's a way better tool just say :)
There are plenty of kits to convert the block
to 4 bolt mains. You are already going to send
the block to the machine shop.
absolutely love his Dad-humor XD
Also: Impact drill ASMR
Loved your style. It was really interesting. Can't wait for the rebuild.
Great video.. that’s what I like about your channel the most Eric, even though you are human and make mistakes just like everybody else you’re not scared to put them out there. I know a lot of people that if that head would’ve fell off that block, nobody else would’ve known. But that’s what makes you Eric the car guy and that’s why we love you great show can’t wait to see the rest!!! are you gonna run AC with the new engine, and will the old one work?
Thanks! Yes, I will be installing AC, but with a new compressor.
It's oddly soothing to watch an engine get completely torn down. Nice editing job, too.
@29:20 "5 minutes after eating taco bell"
Currently tearing down a Chevy sbc. Not no expert and the video is super helpful! The only thing I would like to add or say is the exhaust Manifold bolts. Before putting any type of impact or air tool, Just personally I’d break the bolts with a ratchet before using any air tools/impact. If you’re planning on reusing the heads it’s a good idea to at least break them before air tools. 🙌🏽
Your dad’s engine looks like it was well taken care of!!!
Probably by Eric!!!!
Prior to the LS engines, SBCs did not use metric bolts. The only exceptions are sometimes the accessory drive and torque converter bolts. Bellhousing bolts are 9/16, pan bolts are 1/2 and 7/16 (sometimes 3/8).
If it needs to be line bored you can convert it to four bolt mains.
Best to do splayed bearing caps... Factory 4 bolt style isnt that strong...2 bolt mains will handle 500hp anyway
I’m just using studs.
Converting to four bolt mains is definitely an improvement over two bolt or even studs, but that wasn’t the reason for the comment as that bit of info is obvious to even the person with no engineering knowledge above how to change a lightbulb.
The info was the possibility of the conversion and the requirement of line boring if you do so.
Just a ruff estimate of relative strength, two bolts will give you two tonne of clamping force four will give you upto eight tonnes, studs will give you two point six tonnes , four studs will give you ?.. obviously those numbers are BS but the difference in strength isn’t.
Thank you for clearing that up the number of spark plugs on that side had me guessing.
I'm so glad you have an impact driver. This video could have been 12 hr long. Just kidding. I now know I won't be taking my 350 out of my Tahoe. I will just drive it till it stops running.
lol
Find a bay to dump it into
me too condee. 95 tahoe, 3.7L. purrs like a kitten
My 350 has a knock sensor in the same place in the block. Strange sensor to be dangling out of the engine block of a 1985 GMC K1500 🤣
Me: Well, it's 2:30 AM, I should go to bed now.
ETCG: uploads a new video
Me: I mean, who needs sleep anyway?
I genuinely flinched when the cylinder head fell.
Ah....the agonizing sound of an M18 Impact is strong with this one.
Still can't believe I finally got to meet you. Really cool guy 💪
Was great meeting you!
Eric, the end of this video reminded me of something... I have always wondered how long is "a long time" for an engine to sit... in other words, how long before the next startup becomes a true dry start. Can you give me an approximate answer? I would guess 3 months or more. Thanks for the awesome videos :)
There is always some oil film on everything inside a motor that has been run. I consider dry start an old wifes tale. Even a fresh new motor is assembled with plenty of assembly lube. Pre-oiling a motor for first start is really only to get oil into the oil pump and oil passages. There are electric and vacuum pre-oilers that can be installed for the paranoid. If you plan to sit a motor for a long time, changing the oil is #1, and spraying wd-40 in each cylinder. loosening the rocker arms to allow all the valves to close will keep moisture and critters from getting inside the pistons. Tape/cover every hole into the motor.
At 7:30 you used the puller bracket upside down. The meatier section goes in so that your bolt heads are flat on the puller bracket top and the bottom provides force compression strength from the bolts to the threaded shaft closer to the bolt thread engagement.
10:23 exhaust manifold washer escaped 😂
Man that impact just goes on and on and on
16:45. Eric, use both hands bro. You're on the clock, sir. HAHA
I've done this over and over over the years. It is always a dirty job. I'm surprised the Car Guy is not swapping in a late LS based takeout truck motor. More horse power, better mileage and about the same money as rebuilding a 350 and transmission.