Nice video, thank you. I did this on my '08 recently (275k miles - great little car). My only regret was buying an aftermarket Dorman. I should have bought OEM because Dorman is garbage. I didn't save much going w/ aftermarket.
'99 corolla. Rusted, rounded, hard to reach with the damn fire wall. So removing engine mounts and tilting forward gives you a few inches more to grind off the nuts off? Thanks for the video.
Always make sure you're not pinching, pulling, or squashing anything. After removing a mount, tip it just enough to get the added room needed. If you need more room, release or remove ANYTHING that gets stressed.
Again, great info and thanks for responding. I'm an electronics person so your mechanical advice is priceless. If I may ask 3 more questions. Should I use anti seize on the bolts in the exhaust system (not just manifold bolts)? And what's that bracket you swung out of the way just before you removed the heat shield off the original manifold? If that isn't attached, would that cause strain on the seals? TIA.
If you're going to use antisieze on exhaust components, you're best to use the copper antisieze. (It's higher temp) The bracket is a support brace under the manifold. It takes the strain off the manifold to head junction. Not having it in there can allow for flexing to cause further cracks...
I never removed the catalytic converter. I did lift the car to get easy access to the converter to manifold bolts. Torquing the spring bolts IS recommended, but I just tighten them until they seat.
I paid a guy 250 to install the manifold and the Cadillac converter The bolts were just too rusty couldn’t take it out. Wasted too much time I don’t have the right equipment.
I tighten the bolt until the shank (thicker collar of the bolt) bottoms, and then about 18lbs. (I don't have specs readily available, just experience) Like everyone else, I have to spend hours hunting it down, or paying for the data...
nts Add a public comment... blah 0 seconds ago Nice video. I really like the 2 nut trick to remove the old rusty nuts. I have 3 questions about the studs. How do you get them back into the head? How do you tighten them to the proper torque? Can you replace the stud/bolt combo with hardened bolts instead?
Ill do the best I can to answer with my honest opinion... I'll ignore the copy all - paste You can use the same method to reinstall the stud, while the manifold is off. As for torque... "Gudentiete" is the method used here. If you forget that you're tightening a steel fastener in aluminium you'll likely strip it. As for hardened? I wouldn't recommend it because it won't allow for the expansion/contraction of the manifold and will likely do some damage...aka stripped thread or broken bolt. Hardened fasteners could also damage the manifold by cracking it.
Thanks for ignoring me and my phone having a senior moment. I'm an electronics person so your mechanical advice is priceless. If I may ask 3 more questions. Should I use anti seize on the bolts in the exhaust system (not just manifold bolts)? And what's that bracket you swung out of the way just before you removed the heat shield off the original manifold? If that isn't attached, would that cause strain on the seals? TIA.
always use 6 point sockets on exhaust bolts always tap on the wrench with a ball peen hammer to break the rust loose, DONT brute force twist it off. Let the hammer do its job, or use an impact driver.
I'm a 6-point junkie! Far more pros than cons. Penetrating oil, patience, and SHOCK, whether impact, thermal, or both. What stinks is when the bolt is coming right out, then suddenly binds. Going back only gets harder..... It's Fire Wrench time, or machining...
This was a great video. I'm working on my son's 99. Can't get the spring bolts off (no torch) and now they're rounded. I think his manifold is cracked as he says he smells exhaust in car but its pretty noisy too. Was the exhaust loud and smoky with the cracked manifold? I'm thinking mine could be the donut where the exhaust connects under the O2 sensor but if it's a cracked manifold, then not sure. I'm in the rust belt but don't want to replace the entire exhaust on a 1999! Just wondering what lead you to replace the manifold vs anything else. Thanks so much.
The smell of exhaust in the car, and O2 sensor seeing oxygen that it should NOT have seen. I smoke tested it to find the leak. Cut the bolts off and replace them. They thread into the manifold which you'll be replacing anyways, if it's cracked...
Got the manifold off-used nut extractor and didn't break any of the studs. I couldn't find any visible cracks but there was lot of rust/crust between gasket and block so maybe it wasn't sealed. Also, no donut in the down pipe. Purrs like a kitten now and no fumes inside. Thanks again for this video.
Only like 6% of the population are rich many parts that the mechanic replay don't need to be replaced they could have been fixed bringing the cost down there's no need to hurt us poor people
I agree. Sometimes it is more feasible to repair a damaged part, than replace it, or replacing it with aftermarket parts. My advice, do your research on a given model, and follow the feedback, ratings, price, warrantee and go the way that works best for the particular situation. No garage is going to take the time to do that on a single vehicle application. They're usually going to go with what their supplier recommends, and or the quickest. I chose a factory pipe, because i was able to get it for only a couple dollars more than an aftermarket part.(and it was shipped for free!)
Please what's the little vibration noise on my Corolla 2006 when I accelerate to move small it vibrates a sound but when I on normal acceleration movement it doesnt. Pls advice me thanks.
Could be anything from a heat shield rattling, to a cam phaser slopping around, to a timing chain whacking the engine block. Could be anything from nuisance to disaster. Have a quality mechanic check it out for you. (yes, I said 'quality', not 'qualified' on purpose)
Actually...nope. I paid just a few dollars more for the factory pipe, than it would have cost me for an aftermarket. I had the time to hunt down a good deal. Welding it would also be likely to crack along the weld, as this metal has already seen craploads of heat cycles.... I''m a cheap---... That's why I do my own repairs!
I have the same problem with my corolla but I purchase the exhaust manifold from advance auto parts “Dorman”come with 3 gasket one for the engine block the other two gasket one is bigger then the other one the small don’t fit on the manifold but the other one fit so i don’t know what to do with the other one?
You only need the flat one with the four exhaust ports, to go between the manifold and engine. The other end uses a "donut" gasket. Use whichever one fits the best and provides the best seal.
![Kumamoto Masters Japan 2024 | Gregoria Mariska Tunjung (INA) [5] vs. Akane Yamaguchi (JPN) [2] | F](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EIjZybhsWqA/mqdefault.jpg)
One year later and no issues at all! (You'll see this Corolla from time to time in many of my future videos)
This was dude working hella aggressive round them exhaust bolts. Damn. He goes to the gym you can tell.
Turning bolts, is my workout!
Thank you sir . Nice clear step by step my dad has a leak in that area same car will help him out with your video . Stay safe 🙏.
Hope it helps make the job an easy one.
Exact same thing happened to mine. Huge crack right there in the manifold. Thanks for the video, lotsa helpful tips.
Thanks for watching!
great video. you give me confidence that I can do this with my 01.
Fairly easy job to do. Just be careful with not breaking the studs, and be sure to replace the gaskets!
@HouseCallAutoRepair Thanks for your video. What was the silver paste that you applied on the bolts at 13:45? Is it copper anti-seize?
Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant With Brush Top Bottle
@@HouseCallAutoRepair Straight to the point. Thanks 😊
Nice.... always look for something I did not know... great job!
Glad you liked it!
thank you very much, very good, I'll try to do the same with my corola too , thanks ,thanks
Hope the video helps!
Nice video, thank you. I did this on my '08 recently (275k miles - great little car). My only regret was buying an aftermarket Dorman. I should have bought OEM because Dorman is garbage. I didn't save much going w/ aftermarket.
Glad it helped.... At least you didn't have to pay someone else to do it. Very empowering, fixing your own!
'99 corolla. Rusted, rounded, hard to reach with the damn fire wall. So removing engine mounts and tilting forward gives you a few inches more to grind off the nuts off? Thanks for the video.
Always make sure you're not pinching, pulling, or squashing anything. After removing a mount, tip it just enough to get the added room needed. If you need more room, release or remove ANYTHING that gets stressed.
Again, great info and thanks for responding. I'm an electronics person so your mechanical advice is priceless. If I may ask 3 more questions. Should I use anti seize on the bolts in the exhaust system (not just manifold bolts)? And what's that bracket you swung out of the way just before you removed the heat shield off the original manifold? If that isn't attached, would that cause strain on the seals? TIA.
If you're going to use antisieze on exhaust components, you're best to use the copper antisieze. (It's higher temp)
The bracket is a support brace under the manifold. It takes the strain off the manifold to head junction. Not having it in there can allow for flexing to cause further cracks...
Great video! Thank you very much
Glad you liked it!
Thank you sir for this video!
My pleasure!
Yeah! The nut wrecked the nut! Been there done that myself!
Hope the task was entertaining...
Did you have to lift the car to remove the Catalytic converter From the manIfold Ps did you need a torque wrench meter for the job .
I never removed the catalytic converter. I did lift the car to get easy access to the converter to manifold bolts. Torquing the spring bolts IS recommended, but I just tighten them until they seat.
I paid a guy 250 to install the manifold and the Cadillac converter The bolts were just too rusty couldn’t take it out. Wasted too much time I don’t have the right equipment.
Why go with a 9th gen exhaust manifold. Use a 2009-2010 Corolla 2ZR stock header instead. It’s less restrictive. Bolts on no problem.
Just put back on it what I took off...
What's the torque specs for the spring cap bolts holding the pipe to the exhaust manifold?
I tighten the bolt until the shank (thicker collar of the bolt) bottoms, and then about 18lbs. (I don't have specs readily available, just experience)
Like everyone else, I have to spend hours hunting it down, or paying for the data...
@@HouseCallAutoRepair sounds good to me thank you
nts
Add a public comment...
blah
0 seconds ago
Nice video. I really like the 2 nut trick to remove the old rusty nuts. I have 3 questions about the studs. How do you get them back into the head? How do you tighten them to the proper torque? Can you replace the stud/bolt combo with hardened bolts instead?
Ill do the best I can to answer with my honest opinion... I'll ignore the copy all - paste
You can use the same method to reinstall the stud, while the manifold is off.
As for torque... "Gudentiete" is the method used here. If you forget that you're tightening a steel fastener in aluminium you'll likely strip it.
As for hardened? I wouldn't recommend it because it won't allow for the expansion/contraction of the manifold and will likely do some damage...aka stripped thread or broken bolt. Hardened fasteners could also damage the manifold by cracking it.
Thanks for ignoring me and my phone having a senior moment. I'm an electronics person so your mechanical advice is priceless. If I may ask 3 more questions. Should I use anti seize on the bolts in the exhaust system (not just manifold bolts)? And what's that bracket you swung out of the way just before you removed the heat shield off the original manifold? If that isn't attached, would that cause strain on the seals? TIA.
what code did you get...P0300 all cylinders 1 2 3 and 4 right
actually P0171, because the Air/Fuel ratio sensor was detecting excessive oxygen.
Thanks you I pay u to do it for me so much work
In most cases, this can be replaced with a very basic socket set, and a few extra extensions. Rust tends to be what creates the challenge.
always use 6 point sockets on exhaust bolts
always tap on the wrench with a ball peen hammer to break the rust loose, DONT brute force twist it off. Let the hammer do its job, or use an impact driver.
I'm a 6-point junkie! Far more pros than cons. Penetrating oil, patience, and SHOCK, whether impact, thermal, or both.
What stinks is when the bolt is coming right out, then suddenly binds. Going back only gets harder..... It's Fire Wrench time, or machining...
Where did you get the new exhaust manifold from?
I hunted down the factory part number, and searched eBay for it. I also made sure to search for ONLY OEM and Genuine Parts.
Z
Sorry. The z is a typo. Nice video. Why not try a bolt extractor socket?
This was a great video. I'm working on my son's 99. Can't get the spring bolts off (no torch) and now they're rounded. I think his manifold is cracked as he says he smells exhaust in car but its pretty noisy too. Was the exhaust loud and smoky with the cracked manifold? I'm thinking mine could be the donut where the exhaust connects under the O2 sensor but if it's a cracked manifold, then not sure. I'm in the rust belt but don't want to replace the entire exhaust on a 1999! Just wondering what lead you to replace the manifold vs anything else. Thanks so much.
The smell of exhaust in the car, and O2 sensor seeing oxygen that it should NOT have seen. I smoke tested it to find the leak.
Cut the bolts off and replace them. They thread into the manifold which you'll be replacing anyways, if it's cracked...
@@HouseCallAutoRepair Thanks for the reply. Your videos are excellent.
Got the manifold off-used nut extractor and didn't break any of the studs. I couldn't find any visible cracks but there was lot of rust/crust between gasket and block so maybe it wasn't sealed. Also, no donut in the down pipe. Purrs like a kitten now and no fumes inside. Thanks again for this video.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair I have exhaust smell in the car when I turn the heater on. Corolla 2002.
How many miles does the Toyota have.
It's got a young 185K miles.
Only like 6% of the population are rich many parts that the mechanic replay don't need to be replaced they could have been fixed bringing the cost down there's no need to hurt us poor people
I agree. Sometimes it is more feasible to repair a damaged part, than replace it, or replacing it with aftermarket parts. My advice, do your research on a given model, and follow the feedback, ratings, price, warrantee and go the way that works best for the particular situation.
No garage is going to take the time to do that on a single vehicle application. They're usually going to go with what their supplier recommends, and or the quickest.
I chose a factory pipe, because i was able to get it for only a couple dollars more than an aftermarket part.(and it was shipped for free!)
I have the same battery in my 2003 Corolla
Works great too. Never have an issue with it.
Please what's the little vibration noise on my Corolla 2006 when I accelerate to move small it vibrates a sound but when I on normal acceleration movement it doesnt. Pls advice me thanks.
Could be anything from a heat shield rattling, to a cam phaser slopping around, to a timing chain whacking the engine block. Could be anything from nuisance to disaster. Have a quality mechanic check it out for you. (yes, I said 'quality', not 'qualified' on purpose)
En français
Unfortunately, English only.
You buying a new piece made that job a very expensive job
Actually...nope. I paid just a few dollars more for the factory pipe, than it would have cost me for an aftermarket. I had the time to hunt down a good deal. Welding it would also be likely to crack along the weld, as this metal has already seen craploads of heat cycles....
I''m a cheap---... That's why I do my own repairs!
I have the same problem with my corolla but I purchase the exhaust manifold from advance auto parts “Dorman”come with 3 gasket one for the engine block the other two gasket one is bigger then the other one the small don’t fit on the manifold but the other one fit so i don’t know what to do with the other one?
You only need the flat one with the four exhaust ports, to go between the manifold and engine. The other end uses a "donut" gasket. Use whichever one fits the best and provides the best seal.
Thank you for your help