One of the best videos out there. Very detailed from beginning to end and the camera angles!!!! You really took your time to make sure people would understand what to do. Please keep up the good work for the sake of the DIYers!
Thank you for including the 32 ft-lbs torque rating that the bolts need to be tightened to, all other RUclipsrs forget to include that data in their videos.
Wow... great job !!....best on the internet I've yet seen. I have the identical parts used on a Scion xA...the factory doughnut gasket and the same Dorman bolts/springs. I went to my trusted muffler shop to have these installed, and low-and-behold..... there is STILL a leak there. I verified it later by using a shop vac.....on a cold car..... used the exit air flow up the tailpipe and "soaped" the connection....it leaks by showing obvious bubbles at the flange, and nowhere else. I was thinking of going to another shop with new parts.... but maybe all I gotta do is crawl under the car and try to further tighten the bolts....I have newer parts if I need to re-do it. Great job you show here with the detail..... the best.
Yes, give that a shot - tighten the bolts down and see if you get lucky! It is unfortunate that these joints tend to leak, but it is common. You can also return it to the shop that did the work and inform them that it is still leaking: if they're a good shop, the first thing they'll do to try to remedy it is get in there and tighten the bolts, and also verify that their tech didn't put the gasket in incorrectly/askew. I'm sorry that's happening to you - it's very frustrating!
@@L35inColorado ...there is more to the story that I failed to mention as it wasn't a technical issue. Yes, normally I would have gone back to this trusted muffler shop.....but I took advantage of visiting them while on travel from my new home location....this shop is in another town far away..in a city where I used to to live. Finding myself near them on travel I had them do the work. By the time I found the problem I was far away back at my new home. Odd thing is.... the bolts have a shoulder that prevent over-tightening the springs...and they were found tight. My feeling is that they didn't push the gasket down far enough on the manifold to seat properly prior to tightening. The shop manual warns not to use (only) the bolting to "push" the seal in place.
Excellent video. Thanks. I have a 2011 Corolla with a donut gasket that melted through and caused a hole in a part of the exhaust pipe where it rests. Again I appreciate the work.
Wow, I truly admire your attention to details! My car is a 2004 Corolla. I drove 381 miles from Bloomington, Indiana to Decatur, Alabama. The exhaust was fine on the highway, but when I stopped, fumes crept into the cabin! I was not aware of this until evening, when I was at a hotel. I had a bad headache, and I could feel particles of exhaust in my lungs. I expect that getting the 2 spring bolts loose will a real bear of a job! I have a 3/4 inch breaker bar, but I do not have an impact gun. Thank you much for the helpful video! You even included part numbers, excellent!
I saw your other comment and responded -- if you can get under the vehicle (ie, using ramps), you can get those bolts loose with a breaker bar. I would soak them in PB Blaster if they haven't been cracked before (which is likely). I used an electric impact because I'm not that strong, and I just really didn't want to deal with it that night! But I've done it before with a 1/2" breaker bar. My 3/4" breaker bar is too long (40") for those close quarters, but a standard 25" long breaker bar (1/2" drive) would work. Good luck!
This video is much appreciated! Even though I read everything I could, I never had the confidence to replace the donut on my Vibe until I actually saw someone do it! 🙏
I don’t even own this car and I watched the whole thing. Great videos. A lot of people that do videos forget that most DIYers aren’t too familiar with the smallest details about a car and this really breaks it down in detail for anyone that can follow instructions one step at a time!
L35 in Colorado Do you think it will be fine if I tighten the spring bolts until they are snug ? I have a feeling my torque wrench isn’t long enough to reach the bolts
@@GuitarHickNick If you can't get your torque wrench in there, even with an extension, then hey, you gotta do what you gotta do! Get it snug, but move back and forth from one to the other as you tighten them. Good luck!
Can't tell you how much money you saved me with this video. There's no way I would've tackled this project without seeing your step by step. Fantastic job with the camera too. This is one of the few car DIYs where I can actually follow orientation throughout the video. Keep them coming!
Thank you so much really it was fantastic. The explanation and showing the part number and display of connecting gasket with manifold all were very informative.
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- I hope this solved your exhaust leak. If not, have a look at the rear-most exhaust connection (the connection between the mid pipe/resonator and the muffler), because that is a common failure point on the Matrix/Corolla/Vibe, and can cause exhaust smells in the cabin from the rear. The first part of this video shows what to check, and the rest shows the repair (if you need it) ruclips.net/video/ltR0KeVuUYI/видео.html Good luck!
This is fantastic - I replace entire exhaust system in 2 pieces over 18 months - back part first and then the manifold section. Gasket that came with the kit had to be replaced after 6 months... I don't know why. The replacement was a Toyota gasket which was put in about 10 months ago. The same loud noise is back - have appt. to check it on Monday. I'm wondering if any of the steps shown in video were missed by mechanic.... I just want to do it myself at this point...
Hi Thanks for the video I just replaced the exhaust manifold but I reuse the gasket and spring bolts now I have very bad leak hopefully this will solve the problem
I had to replace that stretch of my exhaust, due to the flange rust-out problem, so I used an aftermarket replacement there. Here's a video of that job, from the timestamp where I show the aftermarket gasket for my replacement exhaust: ruclips.net/video/ltR0KeVuUYI/видео.html According to the parts diagram, the OE part number for the muffle/resonator is 17451-0D050 - but double check me on that, because again I couldn't use an OE replacement when I did that job because I had to replace that whole stretch. I hope that helps! : )
I'm not exactly sure what it is! I got few feet of it for free from someone who was throwing it away and have been cutting pieces of it as I need it, to use as shims or to reduce slip here and there. It is a dense, flexible synthetic rubber; it might be a transition strip or carpet edge/threshold trim piece. It was several feet long.
Great videos. Just purchased 2008 Matrix automatic 67k miles. Engine shakes at start up and then levels out around 1000 rpm once warm and idle. No codes, no errors. But can't figure out cause of shaking, vibrating seems too intense for car with low miles. Thinking gaskets may have dried up while not being continually used throughout the years. Once in drive and accelerating, vibrating decreases but when I reduce speed and come to a stop, car vibration intensifies for a second then lowers back down. Motor mounts replaced in front but not rear, but thinking vibration has to do more with a leak of air somewhere. Sorry, I know its much, but you seem like you might have a better guess as to possible causes than me. Thank you
Wow, that is a very low mileage engine for an '08: is it the original engine (as far as you know)? For what you're describing with the excessive vibration at idle, I would start with the easier items, such as: - air filter (excessively dirty filter, or if the box isn't latched down all the way causing a leak) - vacuum leaks (check all vac hoses), and - MAF sensor (clean if dirty). If you aren't getting a misfire/RPM-searching feel when idling or driving, it is unlikely that its a spark plug or ignitor issue, but you can always pull those out and have a look to be sure. Exhaust issues can cause some pretty crazy vibrations, too. Have a look at your exhaust, all the way back to the muffler, and see if there are any leaks and make sure the pipe is hanging on all the hangers. The next check would be fuel injectors, as clogged fuel injectors can cause vibrations (but this is usually accompanied by RPM-searching that you'd notice on the tachometer). I recommend that you start a new thread at Toyotanation.com under the Matrix Gen-1/Corolla Gen-9 forum -- there are some great techs over there who can help you, and who have more experience than I do! Here is the forum you would want to post in: www.toyotanation.com/forums/corolla-9th-gen-1st-gen-matrix-2003-2008.132/ Thanks for your comment, and good luck!
No, I didn't hear any exhaust leak when the old one was in place. I knew it was leaking because I could smell exhaust fumes in the cabin. After the replacement, there were no more exhaust fumes. I hope that helps - good luck! : )
Hello L5, Did you change the rear engine mount after replacing the front gasket? If the rear mount is gone the engine flexes and puts excessive stress on the front exhaust flange gasket.
Hi! I have the older 8th gen Corolla 2001 and did the job today using same brand for gasket & screws/ springs. My i torque wrench was sticking and not functioning so i just tightened screws until they stopped where the flanges meet. Do you think that i need to get another torque wrench to tighten them? in other words whats the importance of torque wrench in this application? Thank you!
You should be fine without using a torque wrench: the torque is 32 ft-lbs, which is not crazy tight. The tightness is to compress and slightly deform the gasket so that it seals better. You can do what you did, and just turn it a little extra to tighten it, or you can leave it as-is and see if you have an exhaust leak. If you still have a leak, then just tack them down a little more. It is better to under-torque rather than over-torque because if the fasteners are over-torqued and you get a leak, then you have to replace the gasket again. But if the fasteners are under-torqued and you have a leak, you can just tighten them up a little more. I hope that helps! : )
hello.i replaced mine and it still leaks.i noticed that the surface of the flange that mates with the slanted side of the gasket has some knurls in them.does yours have them too or is it smooth?i used new springs already and still leaks.thank you
I'm sorry that you're having this issue -- to answer your question: no, I didn't notice any knurls, as you mentioned. If your old gasket was very worn out, it is possible that the pipe or manifold flanges might have worn some, as well. What you might try is this: get some Permatex 80335 ("Permatex Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer"), and coat the junction with that stuff, or a similar type of sealant. Read the label, and follow the curing directions (I think you let it sit for about 30 minutes, then run the engine for 30 minutes to cure it -- I can't remember, but it says on the package). I have used that Permatex sealant before on exhaust leaks, and it works very well. Good luck!
L35 in Colorado thanks very much.the mating surfaces are actually clean and no rust.so i thought the ‘knurls’ were there to grab the gasket since they kinda match to the wear pattern on thenold gasket. well thanks very much for the help.i also watched your video on removing air bag.i am planning to sew on leather cover on the steering wheel.very nice informative video
@@L35inColorado I just went thru hundreds (no exaggeration) of videos just to try to help neighbors, and have zero Corolla experience but am a pipefitter by trade, have worked on engines for 30 years, BUT, in one brief moment of insanity learning on the fly, yanked the intake, missed the portal at the back for the brake booster, and knew there was a vacuum leak but thought it was heads. Ugh. Trudged to junkyard, went "ohhh, okay, DUH", came back home, had it fixed in a couple hours. Spent all damn week LOOKING and looking and looking lol. So yeah, the exhaust is next so I REALLY appreciate the video 😉.
@@marky77777 Wow, that's very cool that you help your neighbors, and much respect for being a pipefitter! : ) Thanks for watching, and I'm so glad that the video helps!
Does the exhaust gasket listed work for the 07 Corolla? Online I come up with 2 different ID'S for the part. This gasket with a 2.40" ID and another with a 1.92" ID
It is the larger one -- the 2.40" ID gasket (Fel-pro 61106). The 1.92" ID gasket is the Fel-pro 61124, which is not the gasket for this particular connection (I think that might be the gasket between the cats, but I'm not sure -- it does come up as a Corolla/Matrix part, but I'm not certain for which connection). If you're replacing the same gasket show in the video, then it is Fel-pro 61106. Good luck!
When you think about it....at timeline 6:32 where you apply the proper torque via a torque wrench, in essence this is isn't necessary as once the "collar" ( that you show) contacts the exhaust manifold flange ( the flange closest to the engine)..... once that bottoms-out and is "Tight".....further tightening is not possible and no torque setting is required, maybe other than a good "oomph".
I think I understand what you're saying - but s torque value would still be required, since"tight" to one person is not "tight" to another! So, the purpose of the torque value would be in preventing the extremes - ie, the extreme that might allow loosening over time (someone stops as soon as the collar meets the flange) and the extreme that someone tightens until the bolt breaks in torsion between the collar and the bolt head! That's my best guess, anyway - I appreciate your thoughtful observation, because it's something interesting to consider and research about. Thanks for watching! : )
I don't think so - if I remember correctly, the exhaust manifold on the 2.4L is located at the front (near the radiator). On the 1ZZ-FE shown, the exhaust manifold is located on back (near the firewall), so access and likely part numbers would be different. I hope that helps - good luck! : )
You're correct. The intake manifold is located at the front of the engine. I replaced the gasket with a Felpro 61106 gasket, which the auto parts store assured me was compatible. I reused the old bolts, but the leak reappeared after a week. Upon further inspection, I discovered that the gasket had been crushed and the mesh was protruding from the flange. I'm still trying to pinpoint the source of the issue, but I suspect it may be due to not properly torquing the bolts. I've purchased a new gasket and spring bolts, and I intend to redo the process.
Haha -- I did that job before, but didn't record it because there is already an excellent video which shows the whole bolt-by-bolt, and here it is: ruclips.net/video/A595LR4SQpI/видео.html That video shows everything you need to know. That video shows the older version of the engine, which had an oil consumption issue due to too few drainage holes in the piston heads: the fix is to drill more holes in the piston heads, so that video shows all the steps to get down to the pistons (and he replaces the rod bearings, too, while he's in there). So, that video shows the early version of the 1ZZFE engine, before Toyota fixed that piston head issue, but otherwise the procedure is almost exactly the same as the newer version of the 1zzfe that's in the Matrix. The differences I can think of for the newer version of the 1ZZFE engine are that the intake manifold is plastic, so the intake manifold gasket is different and the torque for the fasteners is different (let me know if you need that info and I'll post it); also, on the newer versions of the 1ZZFE (2002 and newer, I think), you don't hone the cylinders because the cylinder liners are different than what he had in his '01 Corolla or whatever older model that was; so don't hone the cylinders on the '02 or later, just replace the piston rings and rod bearings if the block looks good. Also, you don't have to drill new holes in the piston heads on the newer engines because that was part of the design corrections Toyota made to address the initial oil consumption issue on the 1ZZFE, so the piston heads already have extra holes on the Matrix & Vibe. Check the block very well for warping because it's an aluminum block. The Matrix I did had a blown head gasket due to a previous mechanic failing to connect the electrical for the radiator fan (no fan, the engine overheated). It wasn't driven very far in that condition, so luckily the block didn't get warped, but there was some distortion to the head; I had to have the head knocked down 10 thousandths (10 thousandths of an inch) by a machine shop to get it good and true (so she's got a milled head now, haha). About that -- I wasn't expecting the machine shop to have to remove so much on that head. I don't think you could get away with much more than 10 thousandth so I got lucky; usually, you'd only need 4 to 6 thou to even it out; 10 thou is kinda pushing it and gets pretty close to the point that you'd want to just replace the head, or use an over-thickness head gasket. I did some research and decided to use the regular head gasket and torqued the head down to the same specs from the FSM. That was almost two years ago and about 15K miles, so I suppose it worked out alright. I used the Ashino-Stone head gasket kit, W0133-1987617. I would recommend that you use new head bolts, and spend-up and get the genuine Toyota head bolts if you can (I originally got aftermarket head bolts, but had to send them back and buy Toyota bolts because the aftermarket bolts had a very bad fit for the triple-square bit used to install them). So, I hope all that helps! It is a very do-able job on the Matrix. Take the radiator out to give yourself more room. Good luck! Check out that video -- you can do it!
I have a question, I tightened those bottom bolts to where they stopped and I also replaced the top gasket tightened to 45lbs (torque). I'm still experiencing a leak. What could be wrong? Do I need to torque the bottom to 32lbs?
Hi -- I'm not sure what you mean -- by the top gasket, do you mean the big gasket between the exhaust manifold and the head? Any by bottom gasket, do you mean the donut gasket shown in the video?
@@batmanguzman3963 Okay, then, yes, I would start by torquing down the bolts shown in the video to 32 ft-lbs. That gasket is graphite, so it needs to be crushed a bit to seal the connection, which is why the torque is a little higher. Also, as for the big gasket for between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head: I checked my FSM, and it shows a torque value for those 5 nuts of 27 ft-lbs. If I remember correctly from when I rebuilt this engine, that was a two-layer metal gasket. It is possible that you might have accidentally introduced an exhaust leak at that surface by over-torquing those nuts (if those are the nuts you meant that you tacked down to 45 ft-lbs). Have a close look at your exhaust manifold, and make sure there aren't any little cracks, especially at the flange. Also, if you're detecting the exhaust leak primarily because you smell it in the cabin, check the connection between the resonator and muffler, because that is a known failure point where the flange will completely disconnect from the pipe, and because of the rear cabin vents, exhaust fumes can enter the cabin from the rear. That happened on my Matrix, here is the video so you check what I mean: ruclips.net/video/ltR0KeVuUYI/видео.html
@@L35inColorado it was worse before tightening to 45lbs. Still noise, so I do believe it's the bolts underneath that need to be torqued to 32lbs. Thank you so much! VERY GREAT HELP! i'll be subscribing 😊
You can certainly use OEM's, if you'd like - here's a diagram with some part numbers: toyota-usa.epc-data.com/corolla_matrix/zze132/1025/engine/1702/?frame_no=2T1KR32EX6C601598&partno=90501A0005 I often used OEM parts, but for this repair the aftermarket parts have worked well now for over 4 years. Thanks for watching! : )
Yes, Dorman's site doesn't list a direct OE number, either, and the site says that the bolts don't fit the '06 Matrix, but as you can see in the video, they do fit. Dorman's site lists the bolts as a fit for the '06 Corolla. You can then cross-reference through the Toyota site to see that the '06 Corolla uses Toyota part #90080-10291: Bolts on '06 Corolla: parts.stevinsontoyotawest.com/a/Toyota_2006_Corolla-S-SEDAN-18L-AT/_50016_6719813/EXHAUST-PIPE/155450-1702.html You can then look up what bolts the '07 and '08 Corolla/Matrix use, and you'll see that they also use 90080-10291: Bolts and Gasket on '08: parts.stevinsontoyotawest.com/a/Toyota_2008_Corolla-LE-SEDAN-18L-MT/_50016_6719813/EXHAUST-PIPE/155450-1702.html Bolts and Gasket on '07: parts.stevinsontoyotawest.com/a/Toyota_2007_Corolla-LE-SEDAN-18L-MT/_50016_6719813/EXHAUST-PIPE/155450-1702.html Any site (like Amazon) which references back to Dorman's site will list the bolts as "not a fit" even though they are, as you can see through cross-referencing. For clarification, call your Toyota dealer and ask if the 2008 Corolla 1ZZFE uses the same exhaust spring bolts and exhaust manifold donut gasket as the 2006 Matrix 1ZZFE (what's in the video). Toyota parts can be hard to pin down in the aftermarket, so you have to do a lot of cross-referencing. Look up the same part on the '07 and '08, and you'll see that it is also #90080-10291, for which Dorman 675-211 is a fit. Likewise with the gasket -- they all use Toyota #17451-0D020. Gasket 17451-0D020, with all applications: parts.stevinsontoyotawest.com/p/Toyota_2008_Corolla-LE-SEDAN-18L-MT/GASKET/63026093/174510D020.html Call or swing by your local dealer if you need some more information. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado sounds good. I'll have to double check to make sure my 07' doesn't have separate nuts rather than built in like on your matrix. All the suggested bolt sets for my 07' have nuts as well. Perhaps they stopped using integrated nuts for 07' and up and thus those bolts fit (thus same part number) but maybe you need nuts as well. Getting jack stands this week to do some exploration.
@@Tony-mx1qs Yes, you might be able to reach your cell phone camera in by the firewall, like I did at about 00:08, and you might be able see the flange on the exhaust manifold where the welded nuts would be (the nuts are in the manifold flange, and the bolts go through from the mid-pipe side -- that is, the nut side is closer to the front of the car than the bolt side). That might give you can idea in advance, to double-check. Please post back with what you find when you get your jackstands.
@@L35inColorado It has welded on nuts like your Matrix. Bolt ends beyond the nuts look pretty rusty. Going to shoot them with PB blaster and pray, but this might have to go to the shop.
@@Tony-mx1qs Oh yeah, the rust can be tough. Really, really soak them with PB Blaster, several times and let them set some. I had to use an impact (I now have an air impact, but at that time I only had this one): www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-PCE211-7-5-Impact-Wrench/dp/B07255QCN4 There is a cheaper one at Harbor Freight tools that might work, too: www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-electric-impact-wrench-61173.html Hopefully the PB Blaster will work. You can also hit them with a torch, if you have a torch to heat up the nut.
The lift point shown in the video is specifically designed (and designated) by Toyota as the front-end lift point. You can see more details here, on page 269 of the Owner's Manual. This information is also shown in the FSM: assets.sia.toyota.com/publications/en/om-s/OM12A21U/pdf/OM12A21U_edited.pdf I hope that helps - though if you have ramps, ramps are always a better/safer option for gaining access when you don't need to remove a wheel. Thanks for watching!
Okay, so you've eliminated the exhaust manifold gasket as the source of the leak, and you have the donut gasket tacked down. Did you see any cracks or rusty spots anywhere?
@@L35inColorado negative. I had even replaced everything new, had the exhaust leak sound, then switched the manifold to the old one. Leak sound is still the issue.
@@batmanguzman3963 Ah man, that's no fun when that happens -- have you had the chance to check the whole length of the exhaust, down to the muffler, for rusted out flanges and whatnot? My rearmost flange (resonator to the muffler) rusted out and it sounded terrible. Are there any cracks around the fittings for the O2 sensors?
Has anyone tried grinding those 2 nuts off, the 2 that are * welded * to the flange on the end of the exhaust manifold? I loathe working under a car with the white hot fury of 100 blazing suns! I figure if I can grind those 2 nuts off, I can do all the work from under the hood. I have been reading and watching videos about metal working tools. I am thinking a die grinder (the big, beefy tool) or a Dremel/rotary tool (the small tool) would work. From what I have read so far, Taita Tools makes the highest quality metal cutting bits. For all the gentlemen reading this, I know the phrase - grind those nuts off - makes you cringe, me too. I'm sorry about that. ;)
I haven't tried that myself, but there might be someone out there who has! When I've had to "bypass" welded nuts in cramps places (or deal with stripped welded nuts), I drill out the threads of the welded nut, then use a longer bolt and a new nut, leaving the welded nut in place. But I know that wouldn't work for what you're suggested because obviously you need to remove the bolt in the first place to drill out the nut. I know this isn't what your asking, but have you considered using ramps? I don't like working under cars either, and my ramps were tied up on another project when I did this quick job, which is why I had to use jackstands (I only have one set of ramps). But, I totally prefer and recommend ramps for under-the-vehicle jobs that can be done with the wheels on. You have much more room with ramps, and they are safer (be sure to chock the rear wheels). I just thought I'd mention that in case you can't remove those welded nuts and end up having to go under the vehicle for the repair. Harbor Freight has some good, affordable ramps, if you decide to try that route. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thank you for your note. I totally understand your idea about the ramps, but I have my heart set on doing this the creative way, and grinding those 2 nuts off. Then I should, theoretically, be able to do everything from under the hood. I am in Bloomington, Indiana, and there is a tool library here! I can borrow a die grinder and a Dremel tool! I do have to buy metal cutting bits. I learned they are actually called burrs, which confuses me. I found a set of 20 tungsten carbide (The hardest tools you can get are made from tungsten carbide, only diamond is harder. The teeth of tunnel boring machines are made of tungsten carbide.) burrs on Amazon for $30. But on Ebay, I found an auction with the same 20 piece set. My final price, including tax and postage, was only $14.41! I just ordered the 2 long bolts with springs, $4 and change from O'Reilly Auto Parts. And next I have to order the doughnut gasket. And thank you for including the part numbers!
@@Anthony_in_Bloomington_Indiana Wow, that's very cool that you have a tool library! What a great community resource. It sounds like you have a good start -- please post back with your results, and good luck!
I'm not familiar with the Yaris trouble-spots in particular, but in general, if you're getting an exhaust smell in the cabin when going uphill, it is because the engine is under an greater load and so a little exhaust leak that you don't normally notice will become more noticeable. There a number of places exhaust leaks can occur, so you'd want to try to pin-point the leak before you change anything. Check out this video from Chris Fix to use an easy, safe method to find your exhaust leak, and he also shows some easy, inexpensive fixes: ruclips.net/video/N-exs1iMLFU/видео.html Good luck!
@@MrRichierich1990 Okay, I see -- I would have a good look at your exhaust pipe connections, especially where the middle, longest section of pipe connects to the muffler at the rear. I don't know if its common on the Yaris, but on the Corolla and Matrix, it is very common for that flange to rust-out, which starts as just a random noise, and then gets VERY loud once it breaks off. Here is a video of that condition on my Matrix -- have a look at your Yaris exhaust system for breaks what's seen in here: ruclips.net/video/ltR0KeVuUYI/видео.html Good luck!
Thank you for the comment -- I'll keep that in mind for future videos. It is very, very difficult to film under the car because of the lack of space (I don't like to lift cars up any more that I must for safety reasons, so its pretty tight under there!) Good luck with your repair!
One of the best videos out there. Very detailed from beginning to end and the camera angles!!!! You really took your time to make sure people would understand what to do. Please keep up the good work for the sake of the DIYers!
Thank you -- good luck with your repair!
The most calming exhaust repair I have ever seen. 😂 Great video!
Haha - thanks for watching! : )
Terrific detailed video! Very helpful! Thanks so much!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you for including the 32 ft-lbs torque rating that the bolts need to be tightened to, all other RUclipsrs forget to include that data in their videos.
Thank you for the clarity on gasket alignment.
Wow... great job !!....best on the internet I've yet seen. I have the identical parts used on a Scion xA...the factory doughnut gasket and the same Dorman bolts/springs. I went to my trusted muffler shop to have these installed, and low-and-behold..... there is STILL a leak there. I verified it later by using a shop vac.....on a cold car..... used the exit air flow up the tailpipe and "soaped" the connection....it leaks by showing obvious bubbles at the flange, and nowhere else. I was thinking of going to another shop with new parts.... but maybe all I gotta do is crawl under the car and try to further tighten the bolts....I have newer parts if I need to re-do it. Great job you show here with the detail..... the best.
Yes, give that a shot - tighten the bolts down and see if you get lucky! It is unfortunate that these joints tend to leak, but it is common. You can also return it to the shop that did the work and inform them that it is still leaking: if they're a good shop, the first thing they'll do to try to remedy it is get in there and tighten the bolts, and also verify that their tech didn't put the gasket in incorrectly/askew. I'm sorry that's happening to you - it's very frustrating!
@@L35inColorado ...there is more to the story that I failed to mention as it wasn't a technical issue. Yes, normally I would have gone back to this trusted muffler shop.....but I took advantage of visiting them while on travel from my new home location....this shop is in another town far away..in a city where I used to to live. Finding myself near them on travel I had them do the work. By the time I found the problem I was far away back at my new home. Odd thing is.... the bolts have a shoulder that prevent over-tightening the springs...and they were found tight. My feeling is that they didn't push the gasket down far enough on the manifold to seat properly prior to tightening. The shop manual warns not to use (only) the bolting to "push" the seal in place.
Perfect description !!! Big thanks. With this, we can see the space between the flanges which disappeared on my side. Time to replace the gasket.
Excellent video. Thanks. I have a 2011 Corolla with a donut gasket that melted through and caused a hole in a part of the exhaust pipe where it rests. Again I appreciate the work.
Thanks, and thanks for watching!
Wow, I truly admire your attention to details!
My car is a 2004 Corolla. I drove 381 miles from Bloomington, Indiana to Decatur, Alabama. The exhaust was fine on the highway, but when I stopped, fumes crept into the cabin! I was not aware of this until evening, when I was at a hotel. I had a bad headache, and I could feel particles of exhaust in my lungs.
I expect that getting the 2 spring bolts loose will a real bear of a job! I have a 3/4 inch breaker bar, but I do not have an impact gun.
Thank you much for the helpful video! You even included part numbers, excellent!
I saw your other comment and responded -- if you can get under the vehicle (ie, using ramps), you can get those bolts loose with a breaker bar. I would soak them in PB Blaster if they haven't been cracked before (which is likely). I used an electric impact because I'm not that strong, and I just really didn't want to deal with it that night! But I've done it before with a 1/2" breaker bar. My 3/4" breaker bar is too long (40") for those close quarters, but a standard 25" long breaker bar (1/2" drive) would work. Good luck!
This video is much appreciated! Even though I read everything I could, I never had the confidence to replace the donut on my Vibe until I actually saw someone do it! 🙏
I'm sorry I missed your comment - thanks! Well done on your DIY, and thanks for watching! : )
I don’t even own this car and I watched the whole thing. Great videos. A lot of people that do videos forget that most DIYers aren’t too familiar with the smallest details about a car and this really breaks it down in detail for anyone that can follow instructions one step at a time!
Wow, thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching! : )
Much better video than other manifold videos in regards to overall explanation, well lit camera angles, and information like torque specs. Thanks !
Wow, thank you -- I hope the video helps! Good luck!
L35 in Colorado Do you think it will be fine if I tighten the spring bolts until they are snug ? I have a feeling my torque wrench isn’t long enough to reach the bolts
@@GuitarHickNick If you can't get your torque wrench in there, even with an extension, then hey, you gotta do what you gotta do! Get it snug, but move back and forth from one to the other as you tighten them. Good luck!
Probably the best video I've watched doing this job.👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👍🏽
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Can't tell you how much money you saved me with this video. There's no way I would've tackled this project without seeing your step by step. Fantastic job with the camera too. This is one of the few car DIYs where I can actually follow orientation throughout the video. Keep them coming!
Wow, great job on your DIY! Thanks for watching : )
Very detailed, and the phone operator voice is great.
Haha -- thanks! : ) Good luck!
The best repair video I've ever seen... thank you so much. I have exhaust issue with an 08 xrs - this really helps.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
This is the best video EVER that I watched when looking for help to fix my Corolla. A great tutor indeed.
Thank you sooo much. 🙏😍
Wow, thanks for your comment! I'm so glad the video helped -- good luck! : )
Excellent video! All business and no bullshit. Thank you very much.
Another well-made and very informative vide ! Thanks!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Was thinking the leak was coming from the exhaust manifold, going to try this first. Thanks!
Good luck!
Holy moly, this is what I needed to see. Thank you for the video!
You're welcome, I'm glad the video helps -- good luck! Thanks for the comment : )
Thank you so much really it was fantastic. The explanation and showing the part number and display of connecting gasket with manifold all were very informative.
I'm glad it helped -- good luck with your repair!
Thanks for posting! Your video is very well done. I'm about to do this on my '06 Vibe (1ZZFE).
Thanks, good luck with your repair!
Huge thanks, 10/10 video, great detail, very informative, and very clear speaking. Thank you for making this.
Thanks for your comment -- you're welcome and I hope the video helps! Good luck : )
Great job. Will try on our matrix since we smell some exhaust when we open up the hood.
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- I hope this solved your exhaust leak. If not, have a look at the rear-most exhaust connection (the connection between the mid pipe/resonator and the muffler), because that is a common failure point on the Matrix/Corolla/Vibe, and can cause exhaust smells in the cabin from the rear.
The first part of this video shows what to check, and the rest shows the repair (if you need it)
ruclips.net/video/ltR0KeVuUYI/видео.html
Good luck!
Super Job , very well documented and explained, videos like these are appreciated ! Keep on trucking !
Haha, hammer down! I'm glad it helped, and good luck with your repair!
Thanks for the video. This really help on my 2007 Corolla. Thanks again.
Wow, that's great -- well done, and thanks for watching! : )
An absolute pleasure to watch! Saved.
Thank you! Thanks for watching : )
This is fantastic - I replace entire exhaust system in 2 pieces over 18 months - back part first and then the manifold section. Gasket that came with the kit had to be replaced after 6 months... I don't know why. The replacement was a Toyota gasket which was put in about 10 months ago. The same loud noise is back - have appt. to check it on Monday. I'm wondering if any of the steps shown in video were missed by mechanic.... I just want to do it myself at this point...
Hi
Thanks for the video I just replaced the exhaust manifold but I reuse the gasket and spring bolts now I have very bad leak hopefully this will solve the problem
I'm glad it helped, good luck!
Very informative video. Thank you!
super helpful video!! do you happen to know if the donut gasket dimension is the same as for the one sitting between the resonator/muffler?
I had to replace that stretch of my exhaust, due to the flange rust-out problem, so I used an aftermarket replacement there. Here's a video of that job, from the timestamp where I show the aftermarket gasket for my replacement exhaust:
ruclips.net/video/ltR0KeVuUYI/видео.html
According to the parts diagram, the OE part number for the muffle/resonator is 17451-0D050 - but double check me on that, because again I couldn't use an OE replacement when I did that job because I had to replace that whole stretch.
I hope that helps! : )
@@L35inColorado awesome thanks!!
Good job , this video helped me, thanks for documenting.
Thank you, your videos are great
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Amazing content, thanks for sharing! 😊👍
Thanks for watching! : )
Awesome video thanks.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Excellent vid.. very helpful
Thanks! : )
Hello, really nice vid!! One quick question, what do you put on the end of the jack stand to protect the car paint? Thanks!
I'm not exactly sure what it is! I got few feet of it for free from someone who was throwing it away and have been cutting pieces of it as I need it, to use as shims or to reduce slip here and there. It is a dense, flexible synthetic rubber; it might be a transition strip or carpet edge/threshold trim piece. It was several feet long.
Great videos. Just purchased 2008 Matrix automatic 67k miles. Engine shakes at start up and then levels out around 1000 rpm once warm and idle. No codes, no errors. But can't figure out cause of shaking, vibrating seems too intense for car with low miles. Thinking gaskets may have dried up while not being continually used throughout the years. Once in drive and accelerating, vibrating decreases but when I reduce speed and come to a stop, car vibration intensifies for a second then lowers back down. Motor mounts replaced in front but not rear, but thinking vibration has to do more with a leak of air somewhere.
Sorry, I know its much, but you seem like you might have a better guess as to possible causes than me. Thank you
Wow, that is a very low mileage engine for an '08: is it the original engine (as far as you know)?
For what you're describing with the excessive vibration at idle, I would start with the easier items, such as:
- air filter (excessively dirty filter, or if the box isn't latched down all the way causing a leak)
- vacuum leaks (check all vac hoses), and
- MAF sensor (clean if dirty).
If you aren't getting a misfire/RPM-searching feel when idling or driving, it is unlikely that its a spark plug or ignitor issue, but you can always pull those out and have a look to be sure.
Exhaust issues can cause some pretty crazy vibrations, too. Have a look at your exhaust, all the way back to the muffler, and see if there are any leaks and make sure the pipe is hanging on all the hangers.
The next check would be fuel injectors, as clogged fuel injectors can cause vibrations (but this is usually accompanied by RPM-searching that you'd notice on the tachometer).
I recommend that you start a new thread at Toyotanation.com under the Matrix Gen-1/Corolla Gen-9 forum -- there are some great techs over there who can help you, and who have more experience than I do!
Here is the forum you would want to post in:
www.toyotanation.com/forums/corolla-9th-gen-1st-gen-matrix-2003-2008.132/
Thanks for your comment, and good luck!
How did you know the one you installed was was not in good? Did you hear the exhaust leak sound?
No, I didn't hear any exhaust leak when the old one was in place. I knew it was leaking because I could smell exhaust fumes in the cabin. After the replacement, there were no more exhaust fumes. I hope that helps - good luck! : )
Hello L5, Did you change the rear engine mount after replacing the front gasket? If the rear mount is gone the engine flexes and puts
excessive stress on the front exhaust flange gasket.
I did not, as my engine mount appeared to be fine. But that's a great point -- thanks for adding your tip!
Hi. What size socket for those spring bolts please? Thanks!
What diameter size of the donut ? I cant find it on eBay.
Hi! I have the older 8th gen Corolla 2001 and did the job today using same brand for gasket & screws/ springs. My i torque wrench was sticking and not functioning so i just tightened screws until they stopped where the flanges meet. Do you think that i need to get another torque wrench to tighten them? in other words whats the importance of torque wrench in this application? Thank you!
You should be fine without using a torque wrench: the torque is 32 ft-lbs, which is not crazy tight. The tightness is to compress and slightly deform the gasket so that it seals better. You can do what you did, and just turn it a little extra to tighten it, or you can leave it as-is and see if you have an exhaust leak. If you still have a leak, then just tack them down a little more.
It is better to under-torque rather than over-torque because if the fasteners are over-torqued and you get a leak, then you have to replace the gasket again. But if the fasteners are under-torqued and you have a leak, you can just tighten them up a little more. I hope that helps! : )
@@L35inColorado Thank you!
hello.i replaced mine and it still leaks.i noticed that the surface of the flange that mates with the slanted side of the gasket has some knurls in them.does yours have them too or is it smooth?i used new springs already and still leaks.thank you
I'm sorry that you're having this issue -- to answer your question: no, I didn't notice any knurls, as you mentioned. If your old gasket was very worn out, it is possible that the pipe or manifold flanges might have worn some, as well. What you might try is this: get some Permatex 80335 ("Permatex Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer"), and coat the junction with that stuff, or a similar type of sealant. Read the label, and follow the curing directions (I think you let it sit for about 30 minutes, then run the engine for 30 minutes to cure it -- I can't remember, but it says on the package). I have used that Permatex sealant before on exhaust leaks, and it works very well. Good luck!
L35 in Colorado thanks very much.the mating surfaces are actually clean and no rust.so i thought the ‘knurls’ were there to grab the gasket since they kinda match to the wear pattern on thenold gasket. well thanks very much for the help.i also watched your video on removing air bag.i am planning to sew on leather cover on the steering wheel.very nice informative video
Very well done video vs the 99% crap I see on here.
Haha, thanks! : )
@@L35inColorado I just went thru hundreds (no exaggeration) of videos just to try to help neighbors, and have zero Corolla experience but am a pipefitter by trade, have worked on engines for 30 years, BUT, in one brief moment of insanity learning on the fly, yanked the intake, missed the portal at the back for the brake booster, and knew there was a vacuum leak but thought it was heads. Ugh.
Trudged to junkyard, went "ohhh, okay, DUH", came back home, had it fixed in a couple hours.
Spent all damn week LOOKING and looking and looking lol.
So yeah, the exhaust is next so I REALLY appreciate the video 😉.
@@marky77777 Wow, that's very cool that you help your neighbors, and much respect for being a pipefitter! : ) Thanks for watching, and I'm so glad that the video helps!
Is this the front one?
Does the exhaust gasket listed work for the 07 Corolla?
Online I come up with 2 different ID'S for the part.
This gasket with a 2.40" ID and another with a 1.92" ID
It is the larger one -- the 2.40" ID gasket (Fel-pro 61106). The 1.92" ID gasket is the Fel-pro 61124, which is not the gasket for this particular connection (I think that might be the gasket between the cats, but I'm not sure -- it does come up as a Corolla/Matrix part, but I'm not certain for which connection). If you're replacing the same gasket show in the video, then it is Fel-pro 61106. Good luck!
When you think about it....at timeline 6:32 where you apply the proper torque via a torque wrench, in essence this is isn't necessary as once the "collar" ( that you show) contacts the exhaust manifold flange ( the flange closest to the engine)..... once that bottoms-out and is "Tight".....further tightening is not possible and no torque setting is required, maybe other than a good "oomph".
I think I understand what you're saying - but s torque value would still be required, since"tight" to one person is not "tight" to another! So, the purpose of the torque value would be in preventing the extremes - ie, the extreme that might allow loosening over time (someone stops as soon as the collar meets the flange) and the extreme that someone tightens until the bolt breaks in torsion between the collar and the bolt head!
That's my best guess, anyway - I appreciate your thoughtful observation, because it's something interesting to consider and research about.
Thanks for watching! : )
Hint..... Dorman 675-221 is identical to Dorman "Help" line product 03123...same thing, confirmed by contacting Dorman. All M10 x 1.25
Thanks for adding your tips! And thanks for watching : )
@@L35inColorado .....👍
Do you know if the same step applies for 09 Vibe 2.4L?
I don't think so - if I remember correctly, the exhaust manifold on the 2.4L is located at the front (near the radiator). On the 1ZZ-FE shown, the exhaust manifold is located on back (near the firewall), so access and likely part numbers would be different. I hope that helps - good luck! : )
You're correct. The intake manifold is located at the front of the engine. I replaced the gasket with a Felpro 61106 gasket, which the auto parts store assured me was compatible. I reused the old bolts, but the leak reappeared after a week. Upon further inspection, I discovered that the gasket had been crushed and the mesh was protruding from the flange.
I'm still trying to pinpoint the source of the issue, but I suspect it may be due to not properly torquing the bolts. I've purchased a new gasket and spring bolts, and I intend to redo the process.
can you redo the head gasket and piston ring just to make it video for us? lol
Haha -- I did that job before, but didn't record it because there is already an excellent video which shows the whole bolt-by-bolt, and here it is:
ruclips.net/video/A595LR4SQpI/видео.html
That video shows everything you need to know. That video shows the older version of the engine, which had an oil consumption issue due to too few drainage holes in the piston heads: the fix is to drill more holes in the piston heads, so that video shows all the steps to get down to the pistons (and he replaces the rod bearings, too, while he's in there).
So, that video shows the early version of the 1ZZFE engine, before Toyota fixed that piston head issue, but otherwise the procedure is almost exactly the same as the newer version of the 1zzfe that's in the Matrix.
The differences I can think of for the newer version of the 1ZZFE engine are that the intake manifold is plastic, so the intake manifold gasket is different and the torque for the fasteners is different (let me know if you need that info and I'll post it); also, on the newer versions of the 1ZZFE (2002 and newer, I think), you don't hone the cylinders because the cylinder liners are different than what he had in his '01 Corolla or whatever older model that was; so don't hone the cylinders on the '02 or later, just replace the piston rings and rod bearings if the block looks good.
Also, you don't have to drill new holes in the piston heads on the newer engines because that was part of the design corrections Toyota made to address the initial oil consumption issue on the 1ZZFE, so the piston heads already have extra holes on the Matrix & Vibe.
Check the block very well for warping because it's an aluminum block. The Matrix I did had a blown head gasket due to a previous mechanic failing to connect the electrical for the radiator fan (no fan, the engine overheated). It wasn't driven very far in that condition, so luckily the block didn't get warped, but there was some distortion to the head; I had to have the head knocked down 10 thousandths (10 thousandths of an inch) by a machine shop to get it good and true (so she's got a milled head now, haha).
About that -- I wasn't expecting the machine shop to have to remove so much on that head. I don't think you could get away with much more than 10 thousandth so I got lucky; usually, you'd only need 4 to 6 thou to even it out; 10 thou is kinda pushing it and gets pretty close to the point that you'd want to just replace the head, or use an over-thickness head gasket. I did some research and decided to use the regular head gasket and torqued the head down to the same specs from the FSM. That was almost two years ago and about 15K miles, so I suppose it worked out alright. I used the Ashino-Stone head gasket kit, W0133-1987617.
I would recommend that you use new head bolts, and spend-up and get the genuine Toyota head bolts if you can (I originally got aftermarket head bolts, but had to send them back and buy Toyota bolts because the aftermarket bolts had a very bad fit for the triple-square bit used to install them).
So, I hope all that helps! It is a very do-able job on the Matrix. Take the radiator out to give yourself more room. Good luck! Check out that video -- you can do it!
I have a question, I tightened those bottom bolts to where they stopped and I also replaced the top gasket tightened to 45lbs (torque). I'm still experiencing a leak. What could be wrong? Do I need to torque the bottom to 32lbs?
Hi -- I'm not sure what you mean -- by the top gasket, do you mean the big gasket between the exhaust manifold and the head? Any by bottom gasket, do you mean the donut gasket shown in the video?
@@L35inColorado yes and yes
@@batmanguzman3963 Okay, then, yes, I would start by torquing down the bolts shown in the video to 32 ft-lbs. That gasket is graphite, so it needs to be crushed a bit to seal the connection, which is why the torque is a little higher.
Also, as for the big gasket for between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head: I checked my FSM, and it shows a torque value for those 5 nuts of 27 ft-lbs. If I remember correctly from when I rebuilt this engine, that was a two-layer metal gasket. It is possible that you might have accidentally introduced an exhaust leak at that surface by over-torquing those nuts (if those are the nuts you meant that you tacked down to 45 ft-lbs).
Have a close look at your exhaust manifold, and make sure there aren't any little cracks, especially at the flange. Also, if you're detecting the exhaust leak primarily because you smell it in the cabin, check the connection between the resonator and muffler, because that is a known failure point where the flange will completely disconnect from the pipe, and because of the rear cabin vents, exhaust fumes can enter the cabin from the rear. That happened on my Matrix, here is the video so you check what I mean:
ruclips.net/video/ltR0KeVuUYI/видео.html
@@L35inColorado it was worse before tightening to 45lbs. Still noise, so I do believe it's the bolts underneath that need to be torqued to 32lbs. Thank you so much! VERY GREAT HELP! i'll be subscribing 😊
@@batmanguzman3963 Thank you -- I hope that solves the problem for you!
You need to use oem Toyota bolts and springs and gasket
You can certainly use OEM's, if you'd like - here's a diagram with some part numbers:
toyota-usa.epc-data.com/corolla_matrix/zze132/1025/engine/1702/?frame_no=2T1KR32EX6C601598&partno=90501A0005
I often used OEM parts, but for this repair the aftermarket parts have worked well now for over 4 years. Thanks for watching! : )
According to Dorman's own site as well as Amazon and various auto parts sites, those bolts won't work on 2007+ model year Corollas....
Yes, Dorman's site doesn't list a direct OE number, either, and the site says that the bolts don't fit the '06 Matrix, but as you can see in the video, they do fit. Dorman's site lists the bolts as a fit for the '06 Corolla. You can then cross-reference through the Toyota site to see that the '06 Corolla uses Toyota part #90080-10291:
Bolts on '06 Corolla: parts.stevinsontoyotawest.com/a/Toyota_2006_Corolla-S-SEDAN-18L-AT/_50016_6719813/EXHAUST-PIPE/155450-1702.html
You can then look up what bolts the '07 and '08 Corolla/Matrix use, and you'll see that they also use 90080-10291:
Bolts and Gasket on '08: parts.stevinsontoyotawest.com/a/Toyota_2008_Corolla-LE-SEDAN-18L-MT/_50016_6719813/EXHAUST-PIPE/155450-1702.html
Bolts and Gasket on '07: parts.stevinsontoyotawest.com/a/Toyota_2007_Corolla-LE-SEDAN-18L-MT/_50016_6719813/EXHAUST-PIPE/155450-1702.html
Any site (like Amazon) which references back to Dorman's site will list the bolts as "not a fit" even though they are, as you can see through cross-referencing. For clarification, call your Toyota dealer and ask if the 2008 Corolla 1ZZFE uses the same exhaust spring bolts and exhaust manifold donut gasket as the 2006 Matrix 1ZZFE (what's in the video).
Toyota parts can be hard to pin down in the aftermarket, so you have to do a lot of cross-referencing. Look up the same part on the '07 and '08, and you'll see that it is also #90080-10291, for which Dorman 675-211 is a fit.
Likewise with the gasket -- they all use Toyota #17451-0D020.
Gasket 17451-0D020, with all applications: parts.stevinsontoyotawest.com/p/Toyota_2008_Corolla-LE-SEDAN-18L-MT/GASKET/63026093/174510D020.html
Call or swing by your local dealer if you need some more information. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado sounds good.
I'll have to double check to make sure my 07' doesn't have separate nuts rather than built in like on your matrix.
All the suggested bolt sets for my 07' have nuts as well.
Perhaps they stopped using integrated nuts for 07' and up and thus those bolts fit (thus same part number) but maybe you need nuts as well.
Getting jack stands this week to do some exploration.
@@Tony-mx1qs Yes, you might be able to reach your cell phone camera in by the firewall, like I did at about 00:08, and you might be able see the flange on the exhaust manifold where the welded nuts would be (the nuts are in the manifold flange, and the bolts go through from the mid-pipe side -- that is, the nut side is closer to the front of the car than the bolt side). That might give you can idea in advance, to double-check. Please post back with what you find when you get your jackstands.
@@L35inColorado
It has welded on nuts like your Matrix.
Bolt ends beyond the nuts look pretty rusty. Going to shoot them with PB blaster and pray, but this might have to go to the shop.
@@Tony-mx1qs Oh yeah, the rust can be tough. Really, really soak them with PB Blaster, several times and let them set some. I had to use an impact (I now have an air impact, but at that time I only had this one):
www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-PCE211-7-5-Impact-Wrench/dp/B07255QCN4
There is a cheaper one at Harbor Freight tools that might work, too:
www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-electric-impact-wrench-61173.html
Hopefully the PB Blaster will work. You can also hit them with a torch, if you have a torch to heat up the nut.
you never jack it up on the front crossmember bar!
The lift point shown in the video is specifically designed (and designated) by Toyota as the front-end lift point. You can see more details here, on page 269 of the Owner's Manual. This information is also shown in the FSM:
assets.sia.toyota.com/publications/en/om-s/OM12A21U/pdf/OM12A21U_edited.pdf
I hope that helps - though if you have ramps, ramps are always a better/safer option for gaining access when you don't need to remove a wheel.
Thanks for watching!
Well, I got a new gasket and torqued to specifications. No resolution 😫.
Okay, so you've eliminated the exhaust manifold gasket as the source of the leak, and you have the donut gasket tacked down. Did you see any cracks or rusty spots anywhere?
@@L35inColorado negative. I had even replaced everything new, had the exhaust leak sound, then switched the manifold to the old one. Leak sound is still the issue.
@@batmanguzman3963 Ah man, that's no fun when that happens -- have you had the chance to check the whole length of the exhaust, down to the muffler, for rusted out flanges and whatnot? My rearmost flange (resonator to the muffler) rusted out and it sounded terrible.
Are there any cracks around the fittings for the O2 sensors?
@@L35inColorado yeah! I've read about the hot-cold cycles and tightening the bolts/nuts. But haven't had the opportunity.
@@L35inColorado have you heard of running torque?
Has anyone tried grinding those 2 nuts off, the 2 that are * welded * to the flange on the end of the exhaust manifold?
I loathe working under a car with the white hot fury of 100 blazing suns! I figure if I can grind those 2 nuts off, I can do all the work from under the hood. I have been reading and watching videos about metal working tools. I am thinking a die grinder (the big, beefy tool) or a Dremel/rotary tool (the small tool) would work. From what I have read so far, Taita Tools makes the highest quality metal cutting bits.
For all the gentlemen reading this, I know the phrase - grind those nuts off - makes you cringe, me too. I'm sorry about that. ;)
I haven't tried that myself, but there might be someone out there who has! When I've had to "bypass" welded nuts in cramps places (or deal with stripped welded nuts), I drill out the threads of the welded nut, then use a longer bolt and a new nut, leaving the welded nut in place. But I know that wouldn't work for what you're suggested because obviously you need to remove the bolt in the first place to drill out the nut.
I know this isn't what your asking, but have you considered using ramps? I don't like working under cars either, and my ramps were tied up on another project when I did this quick job, which is why I had to use jackstands (I only have one set of ramps). But, I totally prefer and recommend ramps for under-the-vehicle jobs that can be done with the wheels on. You have much more room with ramps, and they are safer (be sure to chock the rear wheels). I just thought I'd mention that in case you can't remove those welded nuts and end up having to go under the vehicle for the repair. Harbor Freight has some good, affordable ramps, if you decide to try that route. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado
Thank you for your note. I totally understand your idea about the ramps, but I have my heart set on doing this the creative way, and grinding those 2 nuts off. Then I should, theoretically, be able to do everything from under the hood.
I am in Bloomington, Indiana, and there is a tool library here! I can borrow a die grinder and a Dremel tool! I do have to buy metal cutting bits. I learned they are actually called burrs, which confuses me. I found a set of 20 tungsten carbide (The hardest tools you can get are made from tungsten carbide, only diamond is harder. The teeth of tunnel boring machines are made of tungsten carbide.) burrs on Amazon for $30. But on Ebay, I found an auction with the same 20 piece set. My final price, including tax and postage, was only $14.41!
I just ordered the 2 long bolts with springs, $4 and change from O'Reilly Auto Parts. And next I have to order the doughnut gasket. And thank you for including the part numbers!
@@Anthony_in_Bloomington_Indiana Wow, that's very cool that you have a tool library! What a great community resource. It sounds like you have a good start -- please post back with your results, and good luck!
I have a 2010 yaris and have an exhaust leak only while going up a hill
I'm not familiar with the Yaris trouble-spots in particular, but in general, if you're getting an exhaust smell in the cabin when going uphill, it is because the engine is under an greater load and so a little exhaust leak that you don't normally notice will become more noticeable. There a number of places exhaust leaks can occur, so you'd want to try to pin-point the leak before you change anything. Check out this video from Chris Fix to use an easy, safe method to find your exhaust leak, and he also shows some easy, inexpensive fixes:
ruclips.net/video/N-exs1iMLFU/видео.html
Good luck!
I don't have a smell, just a noise going up hill from exhaust
@@MrRichierich1990 Okay, I see -- I would have a good look at your exhaust pipe connections, especially where the middle, longest section of pipe connects to the muffler at the rear. I don't know if its common on the Yaris, but on the Corolla and Matrix, it is very common for that flange to rust-out, which starts as just a random noise, and then gets VERY loud once it breaks off. Here is a video of that condition on my Matrix -- have a look at your Yaris exhaust system for breaks what's seen in here:
ruclips.net/video/ltR0KeVuUYI/видео.html
Good luck!
U kept skipping making it hard to tell what spot under the car ur at but none the less good vid for people without mechanic experience.
Thank you for the comment -- I'll keep that in mind for future videos. It is very, very difficult to film under the car because of the lack of space (I don't like to lift cars up any more that I must for safety reasons, so its pretty tight under there!)
Good luck with your repair!