Timestamps: 00:17 View of broken exhaust at muffler flange 01:18 Diagram of exhaust system 02:06 Remove muffler 02:31 How to remove muffler from hangers 04:12 Remove exhaust spring bolts 04:47 Cleaning up muffler flange 07:25 New Resonator Parts review 10:53 Tool for cutting exhaust pipe 11:33 Cutting the factory pipe at the resonator 14:02 Remove resonator 14:15 Reinstall muffler 14:24 Install new resonator 14:35 Fitting new resonator to factory exhaust at slip joint 16:33 Install new gasket at muffler flange 16:56 Reinstall spring bolts at muffler flange 18:11 Install exhaust u-clamp 20:02 Other options to repair the exhaust other than what is shown in the video. Good luck with your repair!
@@Researcher_RUclips I think about 205K miles -- I got this Matrix with 196K miles, and it has 217K miles now, and this repair was about a year ago, so that's my best guess. Good luck!
Agreed. This happened to my Matrix. I’m a car guy and do all my own repairs. I look at how-to videos all the time and this video is one of the best I’ve ever seen.
Thanks for posting this great mechanical tutorial on exhaust system. I purchased a resonator (Vegaz) from autodoc for 110$ and will change it tomorrow on a Toyota Carina -88. Thank again for this super good video 🌟 // Greet from Sweden🇸🇪🌤
Really one of the best how-to videos out there - so well informed and clearly explained. About to work on a different Toyota but still so helpful. Thank you!
Just watched this video and you saved me a ton of work and money thank you! I would like to add I borrowed an exhaust kit with pipe cutter from autozone and it came with a pipe spreader...an absolute life saver getting the new resonator pipe to slide over the existing system.
I'm so glad the video helped save you time! Yes, that's a great tip about using a pipe spreader and its very nice that your rental included that. Thanks for the comment!
This is one of the most well explained car mechanic tutorial. You explained everything calmly and accurately and make the whole process very intuitive, great job! I have this repair to do on my 2005 Pontiac Vibe. However, a poor job has already been made on this car couples of years ago to fix the same problem and at that time, the mechanic cut both part of the flange (muffler and resonator) and replaced it by a single pipe welded on both ends. Don't do that folks, it removes the flexible component of the whole exhaust and the stress it creates will make the part break again. That's what happened to me. So now, I don't have any flange and the pipe section around where the flange used to be is completely rusted and broke in two. I'm now wondering if I could go with your second approach of replacing only the flanges on both part. The problem I may have is that the exhaust is very curvy around the flange and it may be hard to fix one short pipe section on each side of the flange and then to fix the flange... My other option is to replace the resonator (like you did) plus the muffler, which is unfortunate since the muffler seams fine. On the top of that, I checked the part number you got and for me (I live in Canada) it's now 158 C$ and not 68 US$ like you got. And the part is made in Canada, so ironic... Buying the resonator plus the muffler plus the flange bolts and springs will be a bit more expansive, but it may be my only real option. If one of the reader here has faced the same situation, please let me know what you did or plan to do! ;-) Thanks again L35 in Colorado for this awesome video!
Thanks for you comment! Yes, you make a great point about the need for that flexible connection. Do you have any junkyards in your area (though I know you might end up just finding another rusty flange on a junkyard muffler), such that you can swap in a used muffler and buy a new resonator? Thanks for watching, and good luck!
The junkyard is a good idea, I haven't thought about it at first, but I'm living in Quebec and winters here are devastating for mufflers. Especially since the last matrix/vibe of this generation are 2008, I'm pretty sure all mufflers I'll find will be very damaged by the corrosion. But still, I should give it a try. Otherwise, will order a muffler as well. If I order a muffler, I'll try to save the tale pipe thought, because it's still in very good shape. I don't know how I'll do that thought... Mine seems soldered to the muffler. Do you think I can cut it and use it in a new muffler?
By the way, I may have another question for you, since I don't have a heat gun, I was planing to use a torch to heat the resonator pipe before I fit them into each other, would you have any contraindication doing that? Thanks a lot for your expertise :-)
@@genetixx01 The new muffler should come with a tail pipe in place, and ready to install as one piece -- and you can even find some options with the shiny tail pipe, if that's what your wondering about! I hope that helps : )
@@genetixx01 I think that would work fine -- I considered doing that myself, but as can tell with the camera angles, I didn't have a lot of room under there to work with a torch, so I used my heat gun because it was safer for me to do that, and since it doesn't need to get super duper hot -- just hot enough for some expansion. If you use a torch, just follow all the normal precautions and use some heat shield to protect anything you don't want to accidentally ignite or melt (if your heat shield is rusted/missing). Good luck!
This is a fantastic step by step video how to repair this problem. I don't know what her background is but kudos, you should be an automotive repair instructor. I have a 2004 Pontiac Vibe that has the exact same problem. After watching how to do this video I was ready to fix the problem myself. However, the cost of the part is now $120, and there is now a rental fee at AutoZone to use the exhaust pipe cutter kit. It's $40 dollars. As a result of the pandemic I have put less than 3500 miles on my car since September 2020. I will have the garage I take my car too, fix the problem and do overall maintenance for our upcoming Wisconsin winter. It is incredibly hard to get people to work these days, in any field (trades, medical, repair etc., etc.) I think there needs to be a revolution in all industries about developing products that help make the consumer more self sufficient.
Thanks for your comment! For the "free" rental at Autozone: you pay $40, but then they give you the money back when you return the item. Here's an example: www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-tail-pipe-cutter At Autozone, the tools with prices that end in "zero cents" (ie, $40.00) are typically rentals. If your local Autozone doesn't have it, then try O'Reilly's or Advance Auto (Carquest), if you decide to do it yourself, or you need other tools for other jobs. I agree: I think we will have/are having a "revolution" of self-sufficiency, because it is easier than it has ever been to learn to DIY. Anyone who wishes to learn a trade has no excuse in our day! Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for this. Had the exact same issue with my 2006 toyota matrix. Got the resonator(54698) and gasket(31533) and it all worked out. I sanded my pipe a bit before sliding the new resonator piece over and it slid on without any issue. Hardest part was working under a car with only a jack and jack stands.
Very helpful! I just had this happen on my 2004 Pontiac Vibe, after watching this video I am confident to do this work. I think I'll replace the flanges instead of the entire Resonator, but we'll just have to take another look. Thank you for the video!
What an informative video, exactly what I was looking for to fix my girlfriends loud and leaky 04 corolla exhaust! You even provided part numbers! That's going above and beyond. A comment can only say so much, but just know that I sincerely appreciate the work you put in to this video. Can tell you love your car and take pride in it as well! 10/10.
Thank you a lot for this video. It helped me to fix my Corolla 2006 exhaust which was broken similarly to the car in the video. The cost to fix it by myself it was way less than if I would have gone to the mechanic.
Thank you! Extremely helpful replacing resonator pipe on sons 2004 Corolla. Getting cutting/flange expanding kit from AAP a great tip and real time saver!
Awesome, awesome video. Great quality, clarity and appreciate the diagrams. Have this exact problem with my '07 corolla and will be doing the same repair now that I've seen your vid. Thank you so much!!!
Yeah, it looks like this a common failure for our Matrix/Corollas. I'm glad the video is helpful! Check out the exchange below in the comments from Alan James Beagley, as he also recently did this job and offers some more tips. Good luck with your repair!
Amazing video, extremely easy to understand with your explanations! Thanks so much for letting me understand more my exhaust system, really thank you so much!
What a fantastic video! Your instructions and tips were very clear and helpful. Replacing the same section of pipe and muffler on a 2005 Pontiac Vibe this weekend, so comparable, although the odd thing is that there's no hanger on the stock resonator at all. I might just rig something up because it seems weird that there should be so much free-hanging pipe supported only by the engine-side hanger for the cat and the muffler.
This just happened to my Subaru I bet once I get my exhaust fixed it will start and idle better my car been loud for awhile now didn’t know it was my exhaust holding on for dear life lol great video
So I did the exhaust resonator repair (thanks so much for this video for that) and when I got the muffler off, it was rusted through on the top, so I bought a walker muffler and it didn't have the weld nuts, the spring kit didn't have the weld nuts, the holes on the muffler are too big (5/8", I think) for really any nut, even a flange nut, that fits the recommended spring bolt kit (it's thread size is M8 1.25). I used some washers (I even tried with the spring bolt kit that is supposed to go on the converter-to-manifold side of things, because the bolts are a size bigger and there are flange nuts that will just fit over the holes), but I have too much give at the flange with those so there is an exhaust leak there. I tried clamping the flanges up and tightening the spring bolts, when I let the c-clamp loose, the whole system sags and that exhaust leak is back. I'm in Canada. Where do I find the weld nuts for the muffler, or what am I supposed to use? I can't find any info on this anywhere (I even tried sending walker an email). Any thoughts, anyone? What am I missing??
FYI the original toyota pipe is stainless the walker pipe is galvanize and it won't last as long as the original other then that great video and PS harbor freight now sales an exhaust bracket removing tool
Yes -- and as Colton Moore mentioned above, if you hear any rattling, check and see that it is not just the heat shield by the muffler vibrating against the muffler. I bent my heat shield a little during removal (it is very thin aluminum), and it was just barely touching the muffler, but once the engine is running, it will cause a rattle-tat-tat. I just pushed it back by hand, and the rattle stopped.
Love the video it was so thorough and clear and to the point you were so patient you spoke Softly not like other videos thank you for sharing and thank you for the info I appreciate it Mel Lera Falcone
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- yes, unfortunately it's a common problem, but its not too difficult to repair and you can do them both in one day with all the parts and tools lined up. Good luck and thanks for your comment!
really nice work! and this is such a well put-together video as well. my Matrix failed in the exact same spot. I used the part numbers you mentioned to order the replacements and should hopefully have it installed over the weekend! do you mind if I ask if this repair has held up over the last 4 years? thanks for making this excellent repair tutorial!
Everything has held up well - I haven't had any issues with this repair over these 4 years and probably 20K miles. I would have mostly suspected that if there was to be an issue, it would have likely manifested as an exhaust leak at that front-most connection where the new pipe is joined to the old/cut pipe, since I didn't weld it and just used the Permatex and clamp as shown in the video. But, I haven't had an issue - no issues at all! I'd speculate that the Permatex 80355 likely helped, but I don't know for sure, as I haven't really used that stuff too much (but I do like Permatex in general). Make sure to de-burr/remove any rough edge that might interfere with sliding the parts together when it comes time, and heat up one side so that you can work quickly to get the pieces seated. I hope that helps - thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado thank you for replying and thats great to hear it has held up so solidly! my uncle that has alot more experience than me feels like the Permatex isn't necessary, and that it will pretty quickly rust-seal itself anyways. for the fitting, his advice is to sand the existing pipe really well and use some oil lubricant that will burn off after installation, but I showed him your trick with the heatgun so we may end up doing that as well! and i was able to get the actual Walker clamp recommended for mating to old pipe so hopefully that will work out :)
Haha, the colorful language will be while you're fitting the new pipe over the old one! If you have a buddy, it helps a lot to have extra help for that one part. Be sure to read through the comment thread of Alan James Beagley below, which gives some good detail. Good luck with your repair, and please post back with any tips/info
I just got my repair done and it went better than I thought! I didn't have a hard time sliding the new resonator over the existing pipe (which was weird) and I found out my muffler was forming a crack in the same location as my resonator. So I replaced both of them with Walker models and found out the walker muffler doesn't have nuts welded to the back of the flange like the old muffler did. So forming a flush connection between the two was a bitch but it looks good and tight so I'm hoping for the best! I also heard puting anti-sieze lub on welds and the pipes helps protect it some so I put some one around the welds and we're the cracks formed on the old muffler and resonator. I'll let you know if anything comes up with my repair but thanks again! My only recommendation is make sure to check the muffler too when you have it off. I almost missed the cracks forming in that! Also those bolts take 10mm nuts just in case you have to replace the muffler.
@@MadGhost58 Thanks for posting back -- I'm glad it went well, and great catch in finding those cracks on your muffler! So far I'm very impressed with the Permatex exhaust sealer that I showed in the video, so if your seal at the muffler does leak, perhaps you can try it. But it sounds like you have it under wraps, so you should be a-okay. Thanks again for posting your tips!
@@L35inColorado Thanks! like I said, your video and you actually commenting back fast really helped! The lub I got to was also permatex and it works nice! The lub didn't say it needed to be heated to cure but the fact it was always wet until the muffler heated up confirmed my assumption that it too needed to be heated up to actually cure. I was thinking of using the sealant at that connection point too if I need! There is a guard above the muffler and resonator that had a bolt rust out during my change so for now I have it safety wired to a solid connection until I can get that rusted bolt out and replaced with a new one. Had me worried because there was a large rattling sound coming from underneath but I found out it was just that guard bouncing on the pipes. I'll keep you updated if I notice anything wrong with what I did to better help others. Just did a test drive where I tested all that the best I could and it held up. As long as winter doesn't destroy it again, I should be (fingers crossed) good! This job would have cost around $315 for a shop to do just the resonator side and I did this all for around $200! Thanks again and take care!
Great walkthrough, I’m working on a 09 Corolla except my resonator and CAT are welded together with no connecting pipe between and I need to replace this pipe, any idea besides replacing the whole system?
Great video. I'm gonna do this to my wife's carolla this week.I was wondering how your exhaust project is holding up after a few years of driving with it. Thanks
Thanks! The exhaust repair has held up well - it hasn't required any further repair, and there are no exhaust leaks. I've put about 20K miles on that Matrix since the repair. I hope that helps - thanks for watching : )
Thank you so much for posting this. Your video is very clear, and I appreciate your straightforward approach. I also liked that the video was quiet, I don't know if you had some sound dampener to reduce echo, but it helped to hear you clearly. My resonator rusted through and snapped in two. I've got a connector holding it in place right now, but my new resonator just arrived, and your video will be a big help as I attempt this repair! Question: you mention the bed to tighten the flange bolts to 32lbs of torque. How do I know when I've done this? Is there a meter you used?
Thanks for your comment, I hope the video helps! About the torque value: I pretty much always use a click-style torque wrench, which is a specialized ratchet wrench that clicks when the fastener is torqued to a pre-set value. Chris Fix has a good starte video on click-style torque wrenches: ruclips.net/video/3v3hLvuO_KU/видео.html You don't *need* a torque wrench for this repair: 32 ft-lbs is tight, but not insanely tight, and the torque value doesn't need to be perfect. For reference: the lugnuts on the Matrix/Corolla are torques to 76 ft-lbs, and you know how tight lug nuts are. I'm just mentioning that as a reference. If you're going to be doing more auto repair, I highly recommend to get some torque wrenches, because while for this partituclar repair the torque isn't critical, there are lots of other fasteners where you want to be sure you have the torque to spec, especially anywhere there's a gasket. I hope that helps! Good luck : )
I had the same exact issue. Thank you for the video. It was very well made, informative and easy to follow. Now, is it okay to join the broken part back to the muffler side using "J-B Weld SteelStik Steel-Reinforced Epoxy Putty Stick". ( I am asking this as a temporary fix till the new resonator gets here from Amazon.) Thank you again.
Thanks, I'm glad the video helps! As for the SteelStik: as a temporary repair, maybe give it a shot, and update us with how it works. I have used RectorSeal's EP products ("EP" is epoxy putty, which are similar to SteelStik) and have had good results, as emergency fixes. One case was a small hole in a steel coolant pipe and another case was a copper household cold water pipe with a pinhole leak, so both of those were pressurized fluid applications and the RectorSeal worked well. I think SteelStik is as good as RectorSeal, though I haven't used it myself. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Hi, sorry for the delayed reply. So I had to use 2 J B weld steel stik epoxy sticks. The joint lasted for 3 days/ 60 miles. The JB steel stick putty broke off at the same exact stop. It probably couldn't take the vibrations. Anyway, I bought a new resonator. Also got a new muffler. I figured might as well change the muffler too cause the muffler is just as badly rusted. Also bought a pipe cutter for exhaust pipes from Amazon. Will work on the car over memorial day weekend. Thanks again for the video.
@@zmarssojourner7435 Wow, that's wild! Thanks for the update -- you did a great experiment for everyone else to learn from! Good luck with the repair this weekend : )
@@L35inColorado Hi! So I went ahead and replaced the resonator. I also replaced the muffler. I used a widely available pipe cutting tool that I bought from Amazon. ( OEMTOOLS 27045 Tailpipe Cutter, Exhaust Pipe Cutter Chain Tool Works with Tailpipe On or Off Vehicle, Exhaust Tail Pipe Cutter) It took about 30 wiggles back and forth with the pipe cutting tool. The rubber hangers took way too long to get out even with using the appropriate tool. I used Lisle 38350 Exhaust Hanger Removal Pliers from Amazon. I did take out the rear passenger side wheel to get easier access to one of the rubber hangers that hold up the muffler. I also used that thermal compound that you mentioned in the video. I finished the entire process with a U clamp that was exactly like yours. I must say that the holes for the muffler bolts are much bigger. The provided nut just kept sliding out of the bolt hole. Walker told me to use Walker Exhaust 35129 Exhaust Bolt and Spring which is what I used. Thank God, I had a few washers lying around since 10 years and they came in very useful. I would like to give you a little something for your video and advice. Is there any way to send you some $$ ? Do you have patreon? My other option is to send St. Jude’s children hospital $25 in your name. P.S. I got 3 quick questions for you. 1) I hear a rumbling sound while driving now. The sound is in sync with the car RPM. It sounds more RPMish while going faster and is less RPMish while going slower. What do you think might be the issue? 2) Wont vibrations loosen the U clamp bolts? Should I Loctite them? 3) How do I find the correct flange nuts that were supposed to mate the muffler and the resonator. Seems like WALKER give the wrong nuts with the bolts. As said above, the bolts just slide out of the bolt holes. Thank you
@@L35inColorado Just got a reply email from walker. the thread pitch for the bolts is is M8 X 1.25. So people who have their nuts falling through the hole need to buy is M8 X 1.25 flange nuts.
The exhaust on my Corolla isn't blowing but around the centre pipe/backbox joint is rattling at idle and goes away when you rev. No heat shields are touching and drives fine. Not blowing either. Maybe somewhere around the joint there's a hairline crack or the flange gasket is rattling inside.
Yes, perhaps like you said there's a crack inside. On mine, it appears that the inner flange was the first thing to go. You mentioned that you checked the heat shields -- did the heat shield by the muffle also have clearance? I had a case once where that heat shield was touching the muffler and causing a rattle.
@@L35inColorado I've had the exhaust looked at and need a new one in the future as a weld that holds the cat and in middle silencer has cracked along with small hole in the pipe. I'm going to have it welded until i've got enough money for a new exhaust.
The flange broke away like this and had to chisel out the old exhaust gasket. Had a new pipe and flange welded onto the existing middle silencer (Resonator) as that's still good. I do need new hangers as the centre pipe smacks the crossmember when starting up. It does seem that the lead exhaust gasket and water cause the flanges to rust out and break off. I got 17 yrs out of the original one.
Before your repair, does you engine creates a "tic tic tic" noise like a lifter valve issue? I try to find out whether I have exhaust issue instead of engine issue. I have noisy tapping noise but may be exhaust leak related. Thanks for the video. Have a Wonderful Thanksgiving Holiday.
Happy Thanksgiving to you too! These engines are noisy and tappy even under normal conditions: did the tapping started recently, or has it always been like that?
@@L35inColorado It started 2-3 weeks ago. It was tapping sound but car "seems" runs ok but now I am so sad because the taping noise get louder and louder and then today I have rough idle when stopped, then 30 min ago while checking the spark plugs/coil (all seems ok). I restarted the car again and she finally throws me a CEL's P0304 -cylinder 4 misfire. I guess I have to bring to the shop now for sure. I believed something go bad on the rocker arm or valve needs adjustment. Wish me luck that I do not need a new engine. :-(
Super clear and well explained video! I have a exhaust leak from the front and it seems to be leaking down the vent holes between the engine and (manual) transmission bell housing. I just replace the clutch and the rear main seal. Could it be sth wrong with the seal? Thank you very much.
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- the rear main seal keeps oil in the crankcase, and does not play a role managing exhaust, so I wouldn't worry about the rear main seal causing an exhaust leak. For an exhaust leak, I would check the exhaust manifold gasket (the big gasket between the manifold and head) and the "donut" gasket (the round gasket between the bottom of the manifold and the first exhaust pipe/catalytic converter). That donut gasket is a common leak: I had to replace it on my Matrix. Here is the video: ruclips.net/video/axuHTufJaMo/видео.html Good luck!
Yeah, its a very loud surprise when it happens! If you have torch, that will work, too. You can get a cheap-o heat gun at Harbor Freight for about $12 (use the 20% off coupon): www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-5721112-63104.html I like the heat gun because it does make it easier to fit flared end of the new pipe over the cut pipe, but if you can't get a heat gun, check the fit and you could possibly use an exhaust pipe spreader from Autozone (you can rent them for free) if you need it. Yours might fit better than mind did: I needed the heat gun to get the new pipe warm enough to expand a bit so I could slide mine into place, and I'm not very strong, either, so the heat helped me. Good luck!
I regret replacing the oem by this walker. Walker is crap.After 1 year all welding joint and clamped joint have heavy rust. Also the end of walker pipe are expanded. I recommend using the second choice that she show at the end. Don’t cut the oem one.
I don't have an exact part number, because I didn't measure the pipe diameters back there. But here is an example pair of Walker ball flange replacement ends (male and female), which would work as a pair: Walker 41722: www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41722/overview/ Walker 41725: www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41725/ It says that those are for 2.25" pipes -- so, measure the pipes (where you'd cut), and check the outside diameter, because it looks like those are intended to slip over the existing pipes. I would also give Walker a call or email to verify what they mean by the dimensions (to be sure you get the correct set). Walker is really good about getting back to customers. Good luck!
Please and please I am confused my Toyota matrix xr 2003 sin I bought the check engine light is on, on the exhaust pipe I can only found one catalyst converter and one 02 sensor and the resonator base on the review I watched from channel I can see that it comes with two catalyst converter and one 02 sensor is between them, I just want know if it have been removed I can see that it supposed comes with two cat. And one 02 sensor between them. Thanks I need your reply please
Timestamps:
00:17 View of broken exhaust at muffler flange
01:18 Diagram of exhaust system
02:06 Remove muffler
02:31 How to remove muffler from hangers
04:12 Remove exhaust spring bolts
04:47 Cleaning up muffler flange
07:25 New Resonator Parts review
10:53 Tool for cutting exhaust pipe
11:33 Cutting the factory pipe at the resonator
14:02 Remove resonator
14:15 Reinstall muffler
14:24 Install new resonator
14:35 Fitting new resonator to factory exhaust at slip joint
16:33 Install new gasket at muffler flange
16:56 Reinstall spring bolts at muffler flange
18:11 Install exhaust u-clamp
20:02 Other options to repair the exhaust other than what is shown in the video.
Good luck with your repair!
You shod have started it with just the cats on there. Lol awesome video
How many miles did the Matrix have before this part failed?
@@Researcher_RUclips I think about 205K miles -- I got this Matrix with 196K miles, and it has 217K miles now, and this repair was about a year ago, so that's my best guess. Good luck!
One of the best repair videos I've ever seen on RUclips and exactly what I needed. Thank you!
Absolutely One of the best repair videos I've ever seen on RUclips and exactly what I needed. Well Done! Thank You!
Agreed. This happened to my Matrix. I’m a car guy and do all my own repairs. I look at how-to videos all the time and this video is one of the best I’ve ever seen.
Facts!
Absolutely!!! The best video over here!!! Thank you so much!
Below. I second that emotion a video discussing tools and demonstrating their use- fully comprehensive. Well done.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
You are my favorite mechanic. I dont know where you learned but you are truly amazing
Wow, thanks -- thanks for watching! : )
Thanks for posting this great mechanical tutorial on exhaust system.
I purchased a resonator (Vegaz) from autodoc for 110$ and will change it tomorrow on a Toyota Carina -88.
Thank again for this super good video 🌟
// Greet from Sweden🇸🇪🌤
Wow, that's great! Thanks for watching! : )
im only 4 minutes in and i gotta say this is one of the best car repair videos ive ever found on youtube, thank you, god bless
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Really one of the best how-to videos out there - so well informed and clearly explained. About to work on a different Toyota but still so helpful. Thank you!
Thank you for the comment, that's very kind! Good luck with your repair!
Just watched this video and you saved me a ton of work and money thank you! I would like to add I borrowed an exhaust kit with pipe cutter from autozone and it came with a pipe spreader...an absolute life saver getting the new resonator pipe to slide over the existing system.
I'm so glad the video helped save you time! Yes, that's a great tip about using a pipe spreader and its very nice that your rental included that. Thanks for the comment!
Thankyou so much for this. Such a clear, expertly explained instructional video.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Great video! I followed the instructions and everything went without a hitch. Thank you for sharing!
I'm so glad it helped, and thanks for your comment!
This is one of the most well explained car mechanic tutorial. You explained everything calmly and accurately and make the whole process very intuitive, great job!
I have this repair to do on my 2005 Pontiac Vibe. However, a poor job has already been made on this car couples of years ago to fix the same problem and at that time, the mechanic cut both part of the flange (muffler and resonator) and replaced it by a single pipe welded on both ends. Don't do that folks, it removes the flexible component of the whole exhaust and the stress it creates will make the part break again. That's what happened to me. So now, I don't have any flange and the pipe section around where the flange used to be is completely rusted and broke in two. I'm now wondering if I could go with your second approach of replacing only the flanges on both part. The problem I may have is that the exhaust is very curvy around the flange and it may be hard to fix one short pipe section on each side of the flange and then to fix the flange...
My other option is to replace the resonator (like you did) plus the muffler, which is unfortunate since the muffler seams fine. On the top of that, I checked the part number you got and for me (I live in Canada) it's now 158 C$ and not 68 US$ like you got. And the part is made in Canada, so ironic... Buying the resonator plus the muffler plus the flange bolts and springs will be a bit more expansive, but it may be my only real option.
If one of the reader here has faced the same situation, please let me know what you did or plan to do! ;-)
Thanks again L35 in Colorado for this awesome video!
Thanks for you comment! Yes, you make a great point about the need for that flexible connection. Do you have any junkyards in your area (though I know you might end up just finding another rusty flange on a junkyard muffler), such that you can swap in a used muffler and buy a new resonator? Thanks for watching, and good luck!
The junkyard is a good idea, I haven't thought about it at first, but I'm living in Quebec and winters here are devastating for mufflers. Especially since the last matrix/vibe of this generation are 2008, I'm pretty sure all mufflers I'll find will be very damaged by the corrosion. But still, I should give it a try. Otherwise, will order a muffler as well. If I order a muffler, I'll try to save the tale pipe thought, because it's still in very good shape. I don't know how I'll do that thought... Mine seems soldered to the muffler. Do you think I can cut it and use it in a new muffler?
By the way, I may have another question for you, since I don't have a heat gun, I was planing to use a torch to heat the resonator pipe before I fit them into each other, would you have any contraindication doing that? Thanks a lot for your expertise :-)
@@genetixx01 The new muffler should come with a tail pipe in place, and ready to install as one piece -- and you can even find some options with the shiny tail pipe, if that's what your wondering about! I hope that helps : )
@@genetixx01 I think that would work fine -- I considered doing that myself, but as can tell with the camera angles, I didn't have a lot of room under there to work with a torch, so I used my heat gun because it was safer for me to do that, and since it doesn't need to get super duper hot -- just hot enough for some expansion. If you use a torch, just follow all the normal precautions and use some heat shield to protect anything you don't want to accidentally ignite or melt (if your heat shield is rusted/missing). Good luck!
This is a fantastic step by step video how to repair this problem. I don't know what her background is but kudos, you should be an automotive repair instructor. I have a 2004 Pontiac Vibe that has the exact same problem. After watching how to do this video I was ready to fix the problem myself. However, the cost of the part is now $120, and there is now a rental fee at AutoZone to use the exhaust pipe cutter kit. It's $40 dollars. As a result of the pandemic I have put less than 3500 miles on my car since September 2020. I will have the garage I take my car too, fix the problem and do overall maintenance for our upcoming Wisconsin winter. It is incredibly hard to get people to work these days, in any field (trades, medical, repair etc., etc.) I think there needs to be a revolution in all industries about developing products that help make the consumer more self sufficient.
Thanks for your comment! For the "free" rental at Autozone: you pay $40, but then they give you the money back when you return the item. Here's an example:
www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-tail-pipe-cutter
At Autozone, the tools with prices that end in "zero cents" (ie, $40.00) are typically rentals. If your local Autozone doesn't have it, then try O'Reilly's or Advance Auto (Carquest), if you decide to do it yourself, or you need other tools for other jobs.
I agree: I think we will have/are having a "revolution" of self-sufficiency, because it is easier than it has ever been to learn to DIY. Anyone who wishes to learn a trade has no excuse in our day!
Thanks for watching!
Just did this repair today on an ‘07 Corolla. I must have got lucky because the pipe slipped over perfectly. Thanks for the video, great job!
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- that's really cool and makes the job easier, for sure. Great job, and thanks for watching!
by far the best repair video i have ever seen great job
dude! i almost said "i would have loved to hear you start it again".....i had to put on my headphones to hear it. Damn! amazing difference.
Thanks so much for this. Had the exact same issue with my 2006 toyota matrix. Got the resonator(54698) and gasket(31533) and it all worked out. I sanded my pipe a bit before sliding the new resonator piece over and it slid on without any issue. Hardest part was working under a car with only a jack and jack stands.
Nice, great job on your DIY! Thanks for watching, and thanks for adding your tips : )
Best I have seen so calm and clearly explained.
Thank you -- good luck! : )
Very helpful! I just had this happen on my 2004 Pontiac Vibe, after watching this video I am confident to do this work. I think I'll replace the flanges instead of the entire Resonator, but we'll just have to take another look. Thank you for the video!
I'm sorry I missed your comment - good luck, and thanks for watching! Let us know how the flange replacement goes : )
What an informative video, exactly what I was looking for to fix my girlfriends loud and leaky 04 corolla exhaust! You even provided part numbers! That's going above and beyond. A comment can only say so much, but just know that I sincerely appreciate the work you put in to this video. Can tell you love your car and take pride in it as well! 10/10.
Thank you -- I'm so glad the video helped! : ) Good luck
What a great great video. You are awesome. 2003 Toyota Corolla checking in with same issue. 299,xxx kms. Thanks for great explaination.
Wow, 299K kms! Congrats! : )
Thank you a lot for this video. It helped me to fix my Corolla 2006 exhaust which was broken similarly to the car in the video. The cost to fix it by myself it was way less than if I would have gone to the mechanic.
really well done video. Clear descriptions, helpful on-screen notes, calm and thoughtful presentation. I'm going to give my repair a shot; thank you!
I'm so glad the video helped -- good luck with your repair!
Great video. I ended up going to Muffler Man and had it fixed for 165$ CAD
Great walkthru - very clear and well-documented. Thanks for taking the time!
Very well explained, especially with the diagrams and the direction of the pipes as to the car front and back
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
From all the videos out there I like this one explains very well thanks
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
One of the best videos I've seen. Clearly explained and with detail. Great work.
Thank you -- good luck with your repair!
Thank you! Extremely helpful replacing resonator pipe on sons 2004 Corolla. Getting cutting/flange expanding kit from AAP a great tip and real time saver!
Thanks for watching! : )
Awesome, awesome video. Great quality, clarity and appreciate the diagrams. Have this exact problem with my '07 corolla and will be doing the same repair now that I've seen your vid. Thank you so much!!!
Yeah, it looks like this a common failure for our Matrix/Corollas. I'm glad the video is helpful! Check out the exchange below in the comments from Alan James Beagley, as he also recently did this job and offers some more tips. Good luck with your repair!
Very well explained, with several options mentioned at different points. Thank you for this!
You're welcome, I hope the video helps! Thanks for your comment, and good luck! : )
Great video! You're knowledgable and talented. Very instructive
Thank you! I hope the video is helpful, and good luck with your repair : )
This video was perfect and a lifesaver. Very well done!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Thanks for this, I'm going to go the flanges only route
Great -- please post back with your tips and part numbers!
Amazing video, extremely easy to understand with your explanations! Thanks so much for letting me understand more my exhaust system, really thank you so much!
What a fantastic video! Your instructions and tips were very clear and helpful. Replacing the same section of pipe and muffler on a 2005 Pontiac Vibe this weekend, so comparable, although the odd thing is that there's no hanger on the stock resonator at all. I might just rig something up because it seems weird that there should be so much free-hanging pipe supported only by the engine-side hanger for the cat and the muffler.
Thanks for adding the tip about the difference on the Vibe! I hope the video helps, and good luck! : )
This just happened to my Subaru I bet once I get my exhaust fixed it will start and idle better my car been loud for awhile now didn’t know it was my exhaust holding on for dear life lol great video
This was a very detailed video. Thanks for putting it together.
I like your voice. Harmless appreciation from ireland!
Wow, thanks for checking in from Ireland! And thanks for watching : )
I was thinking that too! LOVE her voice! And not trying to sound (no pun intended) creepy. Glad someone else thought that.
So I did the exhaust resonator repair (thanks so much for this video for that) and when I got the muffler off, it was rusted through on the top, so I bought a walker muffler and it didn't have the weld nuts, the spring kit didn't have the weld nuts, the holes on the muffler are too big (5/8", I think) for really any nut, even a flange nut, that fits the recommended spring bolt kit (it's thread size is M8 1.25). I used some washers (I even tried with the spring bolt kit that is supposed to go on the converter-to-manifold side of things, because the bolts are a size bigger and there are flange nuts that will just fit over the holes), but I have too much give at the flange with those so there is an exhaust leak there. I tried clamping the flanges up and tightening the spring bolts, when I let the c-clamp loose, the whole system sags and that exhaust leak is back. I'm in Canada. Where do I find the weld nuts for the muffler, or what am I supposed to use? I can't find any info on this anywhere (I even tried sending walker an email). Any thoughts, anyone? What am I missing??
FYI the original toyota pipe is stainless the walker pipe is galvanize and it won't last as long as the original other then that great video and PS harbor freight now sales an exhaust bracket removing tool
Great - thanks for adding your tips, and thanks for watching! : )
sweet, thanks. Going to the junkyard with my sister to help her grab a muffler and this prepares me.
Nice -- good luck at the yard! Thanks for watching : )
You're welcome and thanks for the well wishes :) Got the muffler to its new home.
love the video. i can see you put a lot in to making it. you really do your homework,and know your stuff. thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
This a perfect video for what I was looking for. Thank you!
You're welcome! I'm glad it helped!
You voice is soothing! Thanks for the tips too!
Thanks -- I try to keep my cool, but I'm better about it in some videos than others, haha. Good luck!
Great video, with detailed explanations. Thank you!!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Awesome video! It has helped to quickly identify the loud exhaust. Thank you for sharing!
Oh yeah - the exhaust gets LOUD when this happens! Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
Excellent video ! Same issue on my 05 Matrix. Broke off today 😢
Ah man, I know how you feel! I hope the video will help you repair it : )
I had the exact same issue thanks for including the torque specs!
Awesome video very well explained and the exact pipe I bought thank you especially about borrowing the pipe cutter 🙏🏼
this video is well scripted, filmed, edited and produced. great work. very common issue indeed
Thank you! Good luck!
Very detailed and helpful video!!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
This video is super helpful! Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching! : )
the most important part of the video was to listen to the sound of the engine after installation
Yes -- and as Colton Moore mentioned above, if you hear any rattling, check and see that it is not just the heat shield by the muffler vibrating against the muffler. I bent my heat shield a little during removal (it is very thin aluminum), and it was just barely touching the muffler, but once the engine is running, it will cause a rattle-tat-tat. I just pushed it back by hand, and the rattle stopped.
lovely video i cant imagine how difficult must of been to shoot this.
I like the paint scheme on your wheels.
Thanks! They were rusted steelies when I bought the Matrix, so I just painted them, haha : )
This is great and you are awesome @L35inColorado - thank you so much for doing this!!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Really nice job on this video, Well Done!
Thank you -- good luck!
Thank you so much for making this video.
You helped me out and you get a new subscriber!
Wow, thanks for watching, and thanks for subscribing! : )
Great video - really clear and easy to understand - super job !!!
thanks I have used the nikson flange before too they work if you need to be cheap.
Thanks for sharing that tip -- great! : )
Great video. I have the same problem with my 2006 Corolla
Thank you - good luck with your repair! : )
Love the video it was so thorough and clear and to the point you were so patient you spoke Softly not like other videos thank you for sharing and thank you for the info I appreciate it Mel Lera Falcone
I'm so glad the video was helpful -- good luck with your repair!
Amazing video! Super helpful!
Thank you ! I will try this on my two toyotas that have the same problem
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- yes, unfortunately it's a common problem, but its not too difficult to repair and you can do them both in one day with all the parts and tools lined up. Good luck and thanks for your comment!
Clear instructions. Thanks.
Excellent explanation!!!!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
You did a great job. However when you cut all you have to do is measure from the welds
This was a GREAT VIDEO!!!!!
I hope the video helps -- good luck! : )
Nice patience. 😊
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Excellent video 👍
Thanks! : )
really nice work! and this is such a well put-together video as well. my Matrix failed in the exact same spot. I used the part numbers you mentioned to order the replacements and should hopefully have it installed over the weekend! do you mind if I ask if this repair has held up over the last 4 years? thanks for making this excellent repair tutorial!
Everything has held up well - I haven't had any issues with this repair over these 4 years and probably 20K miles. I would have mostly suspected that if there was to be an issue, it would have likely manifested as an exhaust leak at that front-most connection where the new pipe is joined to the old/cut pipe, since I didn't weld it and just used the Permatex and clamp as shown in the video. But, I haven't had an issue - no issues at all!
I'd speculate that the Permatex 80355 likely helped, but I don't know for sure, as I haven't really used that stuff too much (but I do like Permatex in general).
Make sure to de-burr/remove any rough edge that might interfere with sliding the parts together when it comes time, and heat up one side so that you can work quickly to get the pieces seated.
I hope that helps - thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado thank you for replying and thats great to hear it has held up so solidly! my uncle that has alot more experience than me feels like the Permatex isn't necessary, and that it will pretty quickly rust-seal itself anyways. for the fitting, his advice is to sand the existing pipe really well and use some oil lubricant that will burn off after installation, but I showed him your trick with the heatgun so we may end up doing that as well! and i was able to get the actual Walker clamp recommended for mating to old pipe so hopefully that will work out :)
@@tekdragon Nice! Sounds like you have a good plan! : ) 👍
I will be attempting this fix today! Thank you for the video! I'm sure my neighbors will be hearing some colorful language coming from my garage 😂
Haha, the colorful language will be while you're fitting the new pipe over the old one! If you have a buddy, it helps a lot to have extra help for that one part. Be sure to read through the comment thread of Alan James Beagley below, which gives some good detail. Good luck with your repair, and please post back with any tips/info
I just got my repair done and it went better than I thought! I didn't have a hard time sliding the new resonator over the existing pipe (which was weird) and I found out my muffler was forming a crack in the same location as my resonator. So I replaced both of them with Walker models and found out the walker muffler doesn't have nuts welded to the back of the flange like the old muffler did. So forming a flush connection between the two was a bitch but it looks good and tight so I'm hoping for the best!
I also heard puting anti-sieze lub on welds and the pipes helps protect it some so I put some one around the welds and we're the cracks formed on the old muffler and resonator. I'll let you know if anything comes up with my repair but thanks again! My only recommendation is make sure to check the muffler too when you have it off. I almost missed the cracks forming in that! Also those bolts take 10mm nuts just in case you have to replace the muffler.
@@MadGhost58 Thanks for posting back -- I'm glad it went well, and great catch in finding those cracks on your muffler! So far I'm very impressed with the Permatex exhaust sealer that I showed in the video, so if your seal at the muffler does leak, perhaps you can try it. But it sounds like you have it under wraps, so you should be a-okay. Thanks again for posting your tips!
@@L35inColorado Thanks! like I said, your video and you actually commenting back fast really helped! The lub I got to was also permatex and it works nice! The lub didn't say it needed to be heated to cure but the fact it was always wet until the muffler heated up confirmed my assumption that it too needed to be heated up to actually cure. I was thinking of using the sealant at that connection point too if I need!
There is a guard above the muffler and resonator that had a bolt rust out during my change so for now I have it safety wired to a solid connection until I can get that rusted bolt out and replaced with a new one. Had me worried because there was a large rattling sound coming from underneath but I found out it was just that guard bouncing on the pipes.
I'll keep you updated if I notice anything wrong with what I did to better help others. Just did a test drive where I tested all that the best I could and it held up. As long as winter doesn't destroy it again, I should be (fingers crossed) good! This job would have cost around $315 for a shop to do just the resonator side and I did this all for around $200! Thanks again and take care!
Had exactly this failure, fortunate enough to solder it back together.
Excellent video! Thank u very much!
Great walkthrough, I’m working on a 09 Corolla except my resonator and CAT are welded together with no connecting pipe between and I need to replace this pipe, any idea besides replacing the whole system?
Great video. I'm gonna do this to my wife's carolla this week.I was wondering how your exhaust project is holding up after a few years of driving with it. Thanks
Thanks! The exhaust repair has held up well - it hasn't required any further repair, and there are no exhaust leaks. I've put about 20K miles on that Matrix since the repair. I hope that helps - thanks for watching : )
Mine broke literally exact same spot lol thank you
Ah man -- well, at least yours lasted a couple years longer than mine! : ) Thanks for watching, and good luck!
Great video!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you so much for posting this. Your video is very clear, and I appreciate your straightforward approach. I also liked that the video was quiet, I don't know if you had some sound dampener to reduce echo, but it helped to hear you clearly. My resonator rusted through and snapped in two. I've got a connector holding it in place right now, but my new resonator just arrived, and your video will be a big help as I attempt this repair! Question: you mention the bed to tighten the flange bolts to 32lbs of torque. How do I know when I've done this? Is there a meter you used?
Thanks for your comment, I hope the video helps! About the torque value: I pretty much always use a click-style torque wrench, which is a specialized ratchet wrench that clicks when the fastener is torqued to a pre-set value. Chris Fix has a good starte video on click-style torque wrenches:
ruclips.net/video/3v3hLvuO_KU/видео.html
You don't *need* a torque wrench for this repair: 32 ft-lbs is tight, but not insanely tight, and the torque value doesn't need to be perfect. For reference: the lugnuts on the Matrix/Corolla are torques to 76 ft-lbs, and you know how tight lug nuts are. I'm just mentioning that as a reference. If you're going to be doing more auto repair, I highly recommend to get some torque wrenches, because while for this partituclar repair the torque isn't critical, there are lots of other fasteners where you want to be sure you have the torque to spec, especially anywhere there's a gasket.
I hope that helps! Good luck : )
@@L35inColorado thank you so much!
Awesome video
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
4:45 always wondered how to get that old exhaust donut out
I had the same exact issue. Thank you for the video. It was very well made, informative and easy to follow. Now, is it okay to join the broken part back to the muffler side using "J-B Weld SteelStik Steel-Reinforced Epoxy Putty Stick". ( I am asking this as a temporary fix till the new resonator gets here from Amazon.) Thank you again.
Thanks, I'm glad the video helps!
As for the SteelStik: as a temporary repair, maybe give it a shot, and update us with how it works. I have used RectorSeal's EP products ("EP" is epoxy putty, which are similar to SteelStik) and have had good results, as emergency fixes. One case was a small hole in a steel coolant pipe and another case was a copper household cold water pipe with a pinhole leak, so both of those were pressurized fluid applications and the RectorSeal worked well. I think SteelStik is as good as RectorSeal, though I haven't used it myself. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Hi, sorry for the delayed reply. So I had to use 2 J B weld steel stik epoxy sticks. The joint lasted for 3 days/ 60 miles. The JB steel stick putty broke off at the same exact stop. It probably couldn't take the vibrations. Anyway, I bought a new resonator. Also got a new muffler. I figured might as well change the muffler too cause the muffler is just as badly rusted. Also bought a pipe cutter for exhaust pipes from Amazon. Will work on the car over memorial day weekend. Thanks again for the video.
@@zmarssojourner7435 Wow, that's wild! Thanks for the update -- you did a great experiment for everyone else to learn from! Good luck with the repair this weekend : )
@@L35inColorado Hi!
So I went ahead and replaced the resonator. I also replaced the muffler. I used a widely available pipe cutting tool that I bought from Amazon. ( OEMTOOLS 27045 Tailpipe Cutter, Exhaust Pipe Cutter Chain Tool Works with Tailpipe On or Off Vehicle, Exhaust Tail Pipe Cutter) It took about 30 wiggles back and forth with the pipe cutting tool.
The rubber hangers took way too long to get out even with using the appropriate tool. I used Lisle 38350 Exhaust Hanger Removal Pliers from Amazon.
I did take out the rear passenger side wheel to get easier access to one of the rubber hangers that hold up the muffler. I also used that thermal compound that you mentioned in the video. I finished the entire process with a U clamp that was exactly like yours.
I must say that the holes for the muffler bolts are much bigger. The provided nut just kept sliding out of the bolt hole. Walker told me to use Walker Exhaust 35129 Exhaust Bolt and Spring which is what I used. Thank God, I had a few washers lying around since 10 years and they came in very useful.
I would like to give you a little something for your video and advice. Is there any way to send you some $$ ? Do you have patreon?
My other option is to send St. Jude’s children hospital $25 in your name.
P.S.
I got 3 quick questions for you.
1) I hear a rumbling sound while driving now. The sound is in sync with the car RPM. It sounds more RPMish while going faster and is less RPMish while going slower. What do you think might be the issue?
2) Wont vibrations loosen the U clamp bolts? Should I Loctite them?
3) How do I find the correct flange nuts that were supposed to mate the muffler and the resonator. Seems like WALKER give the wrong nuts with the bolts. As said above, the bolts just slide out of the bolt holes.
Thank you
@@L35inColorado Just got a reply email from walker. the thread pitch for the bolts is is M8 X 1.25. So people who have their nuts falling through the hole need to buy is M8 X 1.25 flange nuts.
Super thorough!
You sound like you could be a character in adventure time
Haha! I don't know what "adventure time" is, but thanks for watching! : )
The exhaust on my Corolla isn't blowing but around the centre pipe/backbox joint is rattling at idle and goes away when you rev. No heat shields are touching and drives fine. Not blowing either. Maybe somewhere around the joint there's a hairline crack or the flange gasket is rattling inside.
Yes, perhaps like you said there's a crack inside. On mine, it appears that the inner flange was the first thing to go. You mentioned that you checked the heat shields -- did the heat shield by the muffle also have clearance? I had a case once where that heat shield was touching the muffler and causing a rattle.
@@L35inColorado I've had the exhaust looked at and need a new one in the future as a weld that holds the cat and in middle silencer has cracked along with small hole in the pipe. I'm going to have it welded until i've got enough money for a new exhaust.
The flange broke away like this and had to chisel out the old exhaust gasket. Had a new pipe and flange welded onto the existing middle silencer (Resonator) as that's still good. I do need new hangers as the centre pipe smacks the crossmember when starting up. It does seem that the lead exhaust gasket and water cause the flanges to rust out and break off. I got 17 yrs out of the original one.
Before your repair, does you engine creates a "tic tic tic" noise like a lifter valve issue? I try to find out whether I have exhaust issue instead of engine issue. I have noisy tapping noise but may be exhaust leak related. Thanks for the video. Have a Wonderful Thanksgiving Holiday.
Happy Thanksgiving to you too! These engines are noisy and tappy even under normal conditions: did the tapping started recently, or has it always been like that?
@@L35inColorado It started 2-3 weeks ago. It was tapping sound but car "seems" runs ok but now I am so sad because the taping noise get louder and louder and then today I have rough idle when stopped, then 30 min ago while checking the spark plugs/coil (all seems ok). I restarted the car again and she finally throws me a CEL's P0304 -cylinder 4 misfire. I guess I have to bring to the shop now for sure. I believed something go bad on the rocker arm or valve needs adjustment. Wish me luck that I do not need a new engine. :-(
Super clear and well explained video! I have a exhaust leak from the front and it seems to be leaking down the vent holes between the engine and (manual) transmission bell housing. I just replace the clutch and the rear main seal. Could it be sth wrong with the seal? Thank you very much.
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- the rear main seal keeps oil in the crankcase, and does not play a role managing exhaust, so I wouldn't worry about the rear main seal causing an exhaust leak. For an exhaust leak, I would check the exhaust manifold gasket (the big gasket between the manifold and head) and the "donut" gasket (the round gasket between the bottom of the manifold and the first exhaust pipe/catalytic converter). That donut gasket is a common leak: I had to replace it on my Matrix. Here is the video:
ruclips.net/video/axuHTufJaMo/видео.html
Good luck!
Hey good work!
Thanks! And thanks for watching : )
Gave you a like just for the comments.
You are a godsend
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
So this would work on a 2006 Toyota Matrix?? Great vid by the way!
Thanks! Yes, the Matrix you see in the video is an '06. Good luck!
If I just wanted to replace the flange cut both sides what size replacement flange paint do I need
Great video, thanks for putting it together just happened to me! I have all the tools except a heat gun, anything you'd recommend?
Yeah, its a very loud surprise when it happens! If you have torch, that will work, too. You can get a cheap-o heat gun at Harbor Freight for about $12 (use the 20% off coupon):
www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-5721112-63104.html
I like the heat gun because it does make it easier to fit flared end of the new pipe over the cut pipe, but if you can't get a heat gun, check the fit and you could possibly use an exhaust pipe spreader from Autozone (you can rent them for free) if you need it.
Yours might fit better than mind did: I needed the heat gun to get the new pipe warm enough to expand a bit so I could slide mine into place, and I'm not very strong, either, so the heat helped me. Good luck!
I regret replacing the oem by this walker. Walker is crap.After 1 year all welding joint and clamped joint have heavy rust. Also the end of walker pipe are expanded. I recommend using the second choice that she show at the end. Don’t cut the oem one.
Oh man, I'm sorry that happened to you! But thank you for sharing so others can consider your experience!
How is it holding up? Years later
I'm sorry I missed your comment - the connections are holding up well, with no exhaust, and no issues. I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )
Found it all on amazon for 105 bucks. Resonator pipe, gasket and new spring bolts.
That's a good deal. Good luck with your repair!
Hello, do you know the part number for the ball flange kit you suggested as an alternative repair? Thanks in advance.
I don't have an exact part number, because I didn't measure the pipe diameters back there. But here is an example pair of Walker ball flange replacement ends (male and female), which would work as a pair:
Walker 41722: www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41722/overview/
Walker 41725: www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41725/
It says that those are for 2.25" pipes -- so, measure the pipes (where you'd cut), and check the outside diameter, because it looks like those are intended to slip over the existing pipes. I would also give Walker a call or email to verify what they mean by the dimensions (to be sure you get the correct set). Walker is really good about getting back to customers.
Good luck!
L35 in Colorado thanks!
Hi, did you find the right one?
Please and please I am confused my Toyota matrix xr 2003 sin I bought the check engine light is on, on the exhaust pipe I can only found one catalyst converter and one 02 sensor and the resonator base on the review I watched from channel I can see that it comes with two catalyst converter and one 02 sensor is between them, I just want know if it have been removed I can see that it supposed comes with two cat. And one 02 sensor between them. Thanks I need your reply please
Thank you.
Apparently you don't need the spring loaded bolts ?