pfff..better you buy already mixed fuel,it`s the best for your diy saws....anybody using these toys doesn`t need to mix themselves...aaaand the lowest you can get around here is 95,so that`ll do anyway..lol...
@@pete_boy71 For seldom used chainsaws that's probably reasonable. If you have three saws, two string trimmers, hedge clippers and a backpack blower the pre-mixed stuff would get real expensive. When I run my MS261, MS271 and MS461 removing hazard trees, doing TSI, or bucking firewood it's not unusual to go through a couple gallons of fuel. Also, buying the premix would require a trip to the dealer whereas I can get the non-ethanol high octane gasoline at myriad locations. Clearly this is an it depends situation but either way high octane, non-ethanol gasoline and synthetic mix oil (prepacked or self mixed) is way better than low octane ethanol laden gasoline with cheap mix oil in terms of reliability and longevity. For my non-mix 4 cycle engines I use the same gasoline with a little Marvel Mystery Oil for added top end lubrication and detergents. Those engines are reliable and hold up great too.
@@johngrossbohlin7582 i talked about diy guys using the 211...of course you are right,but where do you get fuel lower than 95 ? and who would use wrong oil? here you can`t even get mix at a gas station..pro`s used to mix themselves,we older ones still do,but the young professionals all use the special for their saw premixed stuff otherwise the saws only last two or three seasons..like everywhere today too much fine tec...
John Grossbohlin i agree, synthetic fuel when u run many 2 cycle chainsaws, and landscape power tools is way to costly. I did try out a gallon of synthetic fuel, and it ran better than my 92-95 octane mix, but not enuff to justify the cost. I use premium fuel the last 6 yrs on all my gas motors except the tractors/mowers which i use sveral days a week. Does ALL premium gas have no ethanol? Some say yes? Hard to tell at gas pumps near me...i use premium gas, mix w some Startron blue, some Stabil...in a separate marked 5 gal container just for the small motors....not perfect as synthetic mix performance, but affordable and i have less fuel related issues to fix! This year i am slowly migrating to synthetic 2 stroke oil, and symthetic bar oil when i can find it.
Most grateful to you. Today I changed my oil pipe as my still has been leaking for some time now. 64 Yr old woman, never too old to learn. Thank you. Your an excellent teacher. All the best to you and yours.
Used to work at a Stihl dealer. Used to use a piece of string to install oil and fuel lines. Feed the string through the tank and out of the fill hole. Wrap the string around the grommet and just pull it into place.
Steve's small engine saloon And Dany are the only two guys I watch when I can't figure out why something isn't working correctly I suggest watching Steve's channel if you haven't before these two guys are great at explaining how to make the repairs yourself and do it while demonstrating what they're talking about
I have this exact saw and encountered the exact problem. This is the fix they did. Now afrer seeing how easy it was, I will do my own the next time around ! Thx buddy
Great video. Same issue with my Stihl MS170. Also noticed that the chain isn’t t getting oiled up. Will start by checking the oil line, replacing if necessary and then re-assess if the chain oils up. Thank you.
Your videos are awesome. They have helped me in many ways. I appreciate how you break things down step by step.i was hoping to find a video to help with replacing the oil line on a ms260. For the life of me, I can NOT figure out how to access the oil line on this! I have it gutted down to the oil pump but that's as far as I have gone. I can't imagine something so simple would require this much time to take apart? Do you have any direction on how to do this? Any feedback is appreciated.
Great job Don I found on a few of the stihl that the hole on the oil tank where the grommet seats isn’t completely circular Used a round file on the bump on the hole Job done
I have this same model Chainsaw at home in Australia and have had to previously replace that suction hose due to the same leaking problem. Must be a design flaw with the tube . I had the dealer replace the first one , but now will do my own the next time . I loved the way you were able to save time with just shifting the handle to the side using a spark plug spanner. The Stihl workshop manual suggests removal of the entire handle which on this saw is a bit of a pain . Great Vids Dony. Keep em coming
Donny Would it be prudent for the oil filter to be replaced at the same time or is the filter able to be cleaned and re used ? If cleaning possible would soaking in kerosene be the way to go about it ?
Thank you Don, leaking bar oil can be such an annoying curse! Another great informative video, nicely explained and shot, appreciate your effort and time. Also noticed, like others, the care you took to reinstall the Torx bolts with a hand tool instead of just blasting it in with the driver. Nice touch and shows you care 👍👌👏
My MS 290 stopped oiling. I watched one of your videos on how to fix a oil pump. After seeing your video, I was able to remove and clean the oil pump and blow out all the oil passages and it started oiling again. It only took me about 10/15 min tops. I was able to do it with just the bar tool, T7 wrench and a cotton rope. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I don't have a Stihl, but that oil line is probably common concept on all the bigger chainsaws. Great tip, Don. Thanks! Found this one in suggestions after your *Fixing A Chainsaw That Won't Cut Properly! Step By Step Repair With Donyboy73!* with the bad sprocket.
After using your saw must loosen then tighten your oil cap cause while its been running it builds up pressure you have to let that pressure out so just loosen and tighten your cap for starters mine did the dame thing but after doing this simple thing it fixed it
Great video as always. One of my saws -028 av - doesn't leak when is in the case, but the problem is it pumps an excessive amount of oil when it is running, and it seems this particular model doesn't have the way to regulate the flow.....would be great a new video addressing this issue
This is a known issue on these model saws, vibration wears the grommet in the hole, stihl make a small double ended barb fitting (plastic) that you just cut the grommet hose off outside the saw, push the fitting in, then slip the cut off hose onto the other end of the barb fitting. It basically just expands the grommet in the hole. Cheap and works well.
Thanks so much for an excellent video which was well shot and narrated! I was able to easily fix my ms211 with a chronic oil leak. Exactly as you said, original oil line was too hard to properly seal.
Mine has been leaking since day 1, I just make sure to empty the bar oil before I store it. Although I forgot to do that the last time I used it, so I had a case full of bar oil when I opened it up this past weekend. smdh.
For oil leakage from the toolless oil caps both on the ms211, and larger saws, I have used O rings from Tru Value hardware draws . These have worked very well, are easily available, and are very low priced compared to the factory cap assemblies.
This video was helpful .My saw is leaking oil....i suspect the hose is the problem after watching this video.I hope the stihl dealer has this part.....thanks
Clear, simple, patient presentation of the diagnosis of the problem and its solution. Great job (as always). Thank you for taking the time and trouble to record, edit, and post this video. Much appreciated.
Thanks for the video. I have a Husqvarna 41 I bought new in '97. The saw runs well, has good compression but the oil line leaks. I over the years I've replaced the line, so I'm familiar with the repair. However, now the oil line is obsolete from Husqy. Ive tried purchasing an after market, and can not get a good seal. Any suggestions? I'm considering trying to coat the sealing area with an RTV and see if that give a better seal.
Have you ever done a video on the older style 029 Stihl. I think it a 1994 year model. The oil line on my saw is about twice as long as the one you put on this saw. I really enjoy your videos, you are very thorough in explaining the process. Thanks so much.
My god how do you deal with all the idiot comments people post? It's a straight forward repair, low cost and you showed exactly how to perform the repair. Yet people want to know if there is a cheaper way to solve the problem. I would respond, Sure there is! You can use chewing gum or pine pitch to save 20 bucks. It won't work but just think how much money you saved!!! Well done Dony, I applaud you for your expertise but more so for your patience. Thanks for the video.
Cheers Dony 👍 I have a 5yr old MS181 that has always leaked from under the tank. Going to get a replacement pipe tomorrow and replace it to see if that cures it. Good timing with the video 😊 thanks.
I bought a Stihl MS 310 new in 2007 and recently it started blowing oil out the bottom. Will the innards look a lot like the one you show in this video? You show an MS 211.
I have some questions as I am getting into small engine repair. What parts should I definitely have to work on Stihl and echo 2 stroke equipment. Blowers trimmers chainsaws trimmer etc. a video would be excellent lol. I know magnetos carbs & kits which ones though
Hey please help! Does the ms 170/180 have a gaskit between the exhaust muffer and the engine block? When I took my muffler off I thought it was strange that there wasn’t a gaskit ? Just muffler, a metal plate and then that just presses up against the engine block?! Unless I dropped it and couldn’t find it? Thank you!
Another nice repair there Dony!! I notice there are a lot of parts and pieces on the Stihl saw that are plastic. Makes them lighter I guess, but I wonder .. I think saws are being made now so they are throw away when parts wear....
I'd suggest on additional step to this process. Check the oil line hole in the tank for burrs before installing the new line. I had a leaky oil line and found a burr on the tank hole. By removing the burr the grommet sealed properly and the leak stopped. I had this happen with a valve for a tubeless tire on a plastic hand-truck wheel too... removed the burr and the valve stopped leaking. Same goes for leaky fill caps... check the openings for burrs that could keep the 0-ring from sealing properly... Just a few things I stumbled into over the (many) years that others might find useful.
Great video, thanks! My Stihl saws have leaked bar oil since brand new. May try replacing this oil line but have a feeling they will still leak. Wish Stihl would do better in this area. My Echo and Jonsered saws don't leak so it can be done.
My MS250’s cap always leaks. I’ve replaced it but after a couple uses it leases again. Constantly have to pop it out and pull off the o-ring and hose it really well with brake clean and blow it dry with compressed air.
Heck of a lot easier than my MS180. What a PITA! And as mentioned, don't cheap out on the part. First one I did came in a kit from Amazon (China) and a big difference in material. Wasn't pliable enough and wouldn't seal.
need a question answered if you don't mind you talked about mix the other day and said 47 to 1 is a little better for the saw si how do I do that in us measurements I was thinking of mixing 1.1 to 1.2 gallons of gas to the oil that I buy for me stihl stuff what do you think ?
Another super CLEAN and well presented video! I sure wish your shop was near where we live in Texas!... My saw does leak and I’ll look at it carefully as soon as I can. Thank you for another awesome video!
I changed the oil pump because the bar was remaining dry during use.(stihl ms 180 ).The bar is still dry (hole on the pump lined up with hole where oil has to pass in order to oil bar....test was done before replacing bar...oil was flowing.holes on bar and entire bar was cleaned and still..no oil for my stihl.Can you advise?
a repair done correctly. And that's the way it is. Ive replaced quite a few and I've never found a pipe that was punctured yet. they just seem to leak around the grommet. where it goes into the oil tank. And those stupid tank caps are a pain. especially when they aren't on properly and all the oil runs out down you leg !!!
Hi Don, just starting watching your videos, great info and tips. Have a couple of questions for you if you can maybe point me in the right direction. I recently got a MS361 saw as a gift and noticed it will leak bar oil out, roughly half the tank after being topped off and after running the saw. I have laid it on its side with the cap side up and it will still leak the same amount. Would go about replacing the line of the 361 the same way as in your video? Two other things, trying to keep it brief. I’ve noticed after the saw has been running/cutting for a good while maybe 30 minutes or so while having the chain brake engaged to move around safely the saw will shut off on its own, not always and even though the engine is still warm I’ll need to start it with semi choke and it fires right back up. Last thing and this doesn’t do it all the time but every here and there with the saw running and the chain brake disengaged for cutting, with no throttle applied the chain Will very slowly start moving. I’ve had other low end saws in the past but this is my first pro saw and I’m trying to learn the tips and tricks. Any input would be much appreciated when you have the time. Thanks.
I have a wood boss... i have a bar leak and something is wrong with the trigger... if you pull the trigger half way point it runs with no issues but if you pull all the way it shut off... do what that can be?
I also add a slight coating of TB 1184 on the gromett to insure it stays sealed on my saws. I do the same thing to impulse lines and fuel lines, if possible. I do not use it on carburators or carb fittings, because these often need to be removed, occasionally, but on any connection that will be more or less semi-permanent.
Does a Poulan have a similar oil line? The one my grandma gave me that was my paw paws after he passed away is a good running little 14" and it pours and I know it's not the cap. I have a 16" Poulan that runs my 18" bar and chain it's a beast
Saws don't necessarily leak oil as such. most of the oil that is on the floor is draining off of the bar and chain and out of the clutch housing. Especially if the oil system is set high on those saws with an oil feed adjuster screw
I have 2 ? 1 why did the part not have the fuel filter? 2 what would cause a tractor 18.5 B&S engine to loss a compression while using it? Thanks for the great videos I learn a lot and I am 57 years old.
I have a Homelite Ranger 33, I bought used. The Man I got it from couldn't get it to run correctly. He said he tweaked on the low and high speed jets and got them all out of adjustment. Could you tell me a good base to set these screws to so I. An at least get the saw to start, thank you.
This is great. I don’t use my saws much but will be this spring. Was wonder why my new Stihl had so much bae oil under it. Thanks for the vid and $ saved on repair costs!
Donny Would it be prudent for the oil filter to be replaced at the same time or is the filter able to be cleaned and re used ? If cleaning possible would soaking in kerosene be the way to go about it ?
My local Stihl dealer { Thunder Bay } doesn't carry the Stihl Ultra HP oil. What's up with that? Any other Canucks out there having sourcing issues for synthetic?
Carb question: I have this model and noticed the throttle valve does not open fully when the trigger is pulled. It opens 3/4 of the way. Is this normal?
I get a much bigger oil leakage after running the chainsaw, just minimal when its sitting. Does that present a different problem or is it normal to expel more oil when running?
ALWAYS USE HIGH OCTANE FUEL WITH NO ETHANOL TO PREVENT DAMAGE AND COSTLY CARBURETOR REPAIRS ON YOUR OUTDOOR POWER EQUIPMENT!
That and using synthetic mix oil that has fuel stabilizers and I've had no fuel related problems.
pfff..better you buy already mixed fuel,it`s the best for your diy saws....anybody using these toys doesn`t need to mix themselves...aaaand the lowest you can get around here is 95,so that`ll do anyway..lol...
@@pete_boy71 For seldom used chainsaws that's probably reasonable. If you have three saws, two string trimmers, hedge clippers and a backpack blower the pre-mixed stuff would get real expensive. When I run my MS261, MS271 and MS461 removing hazard trees, doing TSI, or bucking firewood it's not unusual to go through a couple gallons of fuel. Also, buying the premix would require a trip to the dealer whereas I can get the non-ethanol high octane gasoline at myriad locations. Clearly this is an it depends situation but either way high octane, non-ethanol gasoline and synthetic mix oil (prepacked or self mixed) is way better than low octane ethanol laden gasoline with cheap mix oil in terms of reliability and longevity. For my non-mix 4 cycle engines I use the same gasoline with a little Marvel Mystery Oil for added top end lubrication and detergents. Those engines are reliable and hold up great too.
@@johngrossbohlin7582 i talked about diy guys using the 211...of course you are right,but where do you get fuel lower than 95 ? and who would use wrong oil? here you can`t even get mix at a gas station..pro`s used to mix themselves,we older ones still do,but the young professionals all use the special for their saw premixed stuff otherwise the saws only last two or three seasons..like everywhere today too much fine tec...
John Grossbohlin i agree, synthetic fuel when u run many 2 cycle chainsaws, and landscape power tools is way to costly. I did try out a gallon of synthetic fuel, and it ran better than my 92-95 octane mix, but not enuff to justify the cost. I use premium fuel the last 6 yrs on all my gas motors except the tractors/mowers which i use sveral days a week.
Does ALL premium gas have no ethanol? Some say yes? Hard to tell at gas pumps near me...i use premium gas, mix w some Startron blue, some Stabil...in a separate marked 5 gal container just for the small motors....not perfect as synthetic mix performance, but affordable and i have less fuel related issues to fix!
This year i am slowly migrating to synthetic 2 stroke oil, and symthetic bar oil when i can find it.
Most grateful to you. Today I changed my oil pipe as my still has been leaking for some time now. 64 Yr old woman, never too old to learn. Thank you. Your an excellent teacher. All the best to you and yours.
Used to work at a Stihl dealer. Used to use a piece of string to install oil and fuel lines. Feed the string through the tank and out of the fill hole. Wrap the string around the grommet and just pull it into place.
Good idea
Loved how you removed the screws with a 1/4" impact but you replaced them manually to stop any possibility of stripping. Another great job!
You make repairs look too easy but you are the most informative out of the vast ocean of channels devoted to small engine
Steve's small engine saloon And Dany are the only two guys I watch when I can't figure out why something isn't working correctly I suggest watching Steve's channel if you haven't before these two guys are great at explaining how to make the repairs yourself and do it while demonstrating what they're talking about
I have this exact saw and encountered the exact problem. This is the fix they did. Now afrer seeing how easy it was, I will do my own the next time around ! Thx buddy
Great video. Same issue with my Stihl MS170. Also noticed that the chain isn’t t getting oiled up. Will start by checking the oil line, replacing if necessary and then re-assess if the chain oils up. Thank you.
Well done tutorial! Filming and narration was clear and well paced! Thank you!! 😀
Your videos are awesome. They have helped me in many ways. I appreciate how you break things down step by step.i was hoping to find a video to help with replacing the oil line on a ms260. For the life of me, I can NOT figure out how to access the oil line on this! I have it gutted down to the oil pump but that's as far as I have gone. I can't imagine something so simple would require this much time to take apart? Do you have any direction on how to do this? Any feedback is appreciated.
Great job Don
I found on a few of the stihl that the hole on the oil tank where the grommet seats isn’t completely circular
Used a round file on the bump on the hole
Job done
I have this same model Chainsaw at home in Australia and have had to previously replace that suction hose due to the same leaking problem. Must be a design flaw with the tube . I had the dealer replace the first one , but now will do my own the next time . I loved the way you were able to save time with just shifting the handle to the side using a spark plug spanner. The Stihl workshop manual suggests removal of the entire handle which on this saw is a bit of a pain . Great Vids Dony. Keep em coming
Donny
Would it be prudent for the oil filter to be replaced at the same time or is the filter able to be cleaned and re used ? If cleaning possible would soaking in kerosene be the way to go about it ?
What I'm finding with your channel, is you are more systematic with the approach in explaining the how to and why. Again, nice.
Thank you Don, leaking bar oil can be such an annoying curse! Another great informative video, nicely explained and shot, appreciate your effort and time.
Also noticed, like others, the care you took to reinstall the Torx bolts with a hand tool instead of just blasting it in with the driver. Nice touch and shows you care 👍👌👏
Bought a brand new ms250 used it one time for about 2 hours and now it leaks bad just like this. Guess I must have torn that line. Good vid.Thanks
You just did my garage floor a big favor, thanks Dony!
My MS 290 stopped oiling. I watched one of your videos on how to fix a oil pump. After seeing your video, I was able to remove and clean the oil pump and blow out all the oil passages and it started oiling again. It only took me about 10/15 min tops. I was able to do it with just the bar tool, T7 wrench and a cotton rope. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I don't have a Stihl, but that oil line is probably common concept on all the bigger chainsaws. Great tip, Don. Thanks! Found this one in suggestions after your *Fixing A Chainsaw That Won't Cut Properly! Step By Step Repair With Donyboy73!* with the bad sprocket.
Short sweet and no bs. Don’t think a better video could have been made. Cheers dude keep it up 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Well done and informative. Not filled with fluff. excellent how to.
In addition to being high on information , your videos are great for having no music or idle chatter that distracts. Thanks.
After using your saw must loosen then tighten your oil cap cause while its been running it builds up pressure you have to let that pressure out so just loosen and tighten your cap for starters mine did the dame thing but after doing this simple thing it fixed it
Very clear video with great description of the task. The little tips you provided make the job go much easier. Thanks.
Great video as always. One of my saws -028 av - doesn't leak when is in the case, but the problem is it pumps an excessive amount of oil when it is running, and it seems this particular model doesn't have the way to regulate the flow.....would be great a new video addressing this issue
Nice repair. My bar oils fine . It leaks if stored level. I store mine with the oil cap down and let gravity keep the oil down.
This is a known issue on these model saws, vibration wears the grommet in the hole, stihl make a small double ended barb fitting (plastic) that you just cut the grommet hose off outside the saw, push the fitting in, then slip the cut off hose onto the other end of the barb fitting. It basically just expands the grommet in the hole. Cheap and works well.
Great explanation adapted it to suit my MS250C and oil leak sorted.
Excellent video! My Stihl chainsaw has leaked for years. It pisses me off!
Thanks so much for an excellent video which was well shot and narrated! I was able to easily fix my ms211 with a chronic oil leak. Exactly as you said, original oil line was too hard to properly seal.
Stihl rep - "it's normal for the saw to leak oil..."
No dude. It's not. It didnt for the first 4 years of ownership.
Good video Donnie. Thanks.
it is normal for some to leak oil but not as much as this one!
Yea I'm talking like having to keep the power head inside a turkey roasting dish because it leaks so much lol.
@Sheri Olson ... k
Mine has been leaking since day 1, I just make sure to empty the bar oil before I store it. Although I forgot to do that the last time I used it, so I had a case full of bar oil when I opened it up this past weekend. smdh.
For oil leakage from the toolless oil caps both on the ms211, and larger saws, I have used O rings from Tru Value hardware draws . These have worked very well, are easily available, and are very low priced compared to the factory cap assemblies.
This video was helpful .My saw is leaking oil....i suspect the hose is the problem after watching this video.I hope the stihl dealer has this part.....thanks
My Husquavarna saw is brand new and leaks oil like crazy. I will look into this fix. Thank you for the video.
Just the problem I am having so this video helped and now I'll repair my saw. Thanks
Clear, simple, patient presentation of the diagnosis of the problem and its solution.
Great job (as always).
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to record, edit, and post this video. Much appreciated.
Always very helpful and well presented. Thank you.
Thank you donyboy73 for sharing your knowledge in a professional and well structured tutorial.
Thanks for the video. I have a Husqvarna 41 I bought new in '97. The saw runs well, has good compression but the oil line leaks. I over the years I've replaced the line, so I'm familiar with the repair. However, now the oil line is obsolete from Husqy. Ive tried purchasing an after market, and can not get a good seal. Any suggestions? I'm considering trying to coat the sealing area with an RTV and see if that give a better seal.
Have you ever done a video on the older style 029 Stihl. I think it a 1994 year model. The oil line on my saw is about twice as long as the one you put on this saw. I really enjoy your videos, you are very thorough in explaining the process. Thanks so much.
Nice video. I have put off replacing oil lines or pump seals because they can be a pain to get to.
excellent photography & good advice--thanks
Just finished the task - thank you very much for the complete view and instructions, even an accountant got it done with your help.
My god how do you deal with all the idiot comments people post? It's a straight forward repair, low cost and you showed exactly how to perform the repair. Yet people want to know if there is a cheaper way to solve the problem. I would respond, Sure there is! You can use chewing gum or pine pitch to save 20 bucks. It won't work but just think how much money you saved!!! Well done Dony, I applaud you for your expertise but more so for your patience. Thanks for the video.
lol, you hit the nail on the head!
Garnet Carmichael
Love the comment.
Garnet Carmichael your so right it's free instruction, figure it out yourself then
Cheers Dony 👍 I have a 5yr old MS181 that has always leaked from under the tank. Going to get a replacement pipe tomorrow and replace it to see if that cures it. Good timing with the video 😊 thanks.
yes it should help
I bought a Stihl MS 310 new in 2007 and recently it started blowing oil out the bottom. Will the innards look a lot like the one you show in this video? You show an MS 211.
I have some questions as I am getting into small engine repair. What parts should I definitely have to work on Stihl and echo 2 stroke equipment. Blowers trimmers chainsaws trimmer etc. a video would be excellent lol. I know magnetos carbs & kits which ones though
Hey please help! Does the ms 170/180 have a gaskit between the exhaust muffer and the engine block? When I took my muffler off I thought it was strange that there wasn’t a gaskit ? Just muffler, a metal plate and then that just presses up against the engine block?! Unless I dropped it and couldn’t find it? Thank you!
Another nice repair there Dony!! I notice there are a lot of parts and pieces on the Stihl saw that are plastic. Makes them lighter I guess, but I wonder .. I think saws are being made now so they are throw away when parts wear....
I'd suggest on additional step to this process. Check the oil line hole in the tank for burrs before installing the new line. I had a leaky oil line and found a burr on the tank hole. By removing the burr the grommet sealed properly and the leak stopped. I had this happen with a valve for a tubeless tire on a plastic hand-truck wheel too... removed the burr and the valve stopped leaking. Same goes for leaky fill caps... check the openings for burrs that could keep the 0-ring from sealing properly... Just a few things I stumbled into over the (many) years that others might find useful.
Great video, thanks! My Stihl saws have leaked bar oil since brand new. May try replacing this oil line but have a feeling they will still leak. Wish Stihl would do better in this area. My Echo and Jonsered saws don't leak so it can be done.
super and to the point every video i have viewed!!thanks sir!
My MS250’s cap always leaks. I’ve replaced it but after a couple uses it leases again. Constantly have to pop it out and pull off the o-ring and hose it really well with brake clean and blow it dry with compressed air.
Heck of a lot easier than my MS180. What a PITA! And as mentioned, don't cheap out on the part. First one I did came in a kit from Amazon (China) and a big difference in material. Wasn't pliable enough and wouldn't seal.
My ms 230 is leaking chain oil in past the Exhaust beside cylnde little grommit or screw must be missing.
Excellent repair
need a question answered if you don't mind you talked about mix the other day and said 47 to 1 is a little better for the saw si how do I do that in us measurements I was thinking of mixing 1.1 to 1.2 gallons of gas to the oil that I buy for me stihl stuff what do you think ?
I have an MS210 that seems to use an excessive amount of bar oil, is that normal or do I need to do some corrective work?
I have a new Stihl ms251(used maybe 2hrs max.of use),and it leaks bar oil!! I'm totally pissed.Why would it leak on a brand new saw Donyboy????
Thank you. This looks like the ideal fix to my leaking chainsaw. It'll save me the cost of a professional repair.
Another super CLEAN and well presented video! I sure wish your shop was near where we live in Texas!... My saw does leak and I’ll look at it carefully as soon as I can. Thank you for another awesome video!
i have a ms 260pro that leaks bar oil excessively. i bet thats its problem too. wonder what the part# for the 260pro oil line is?
Great job Donny
I don’t know how many times I’ve subscribed to you. Every time I check it shows I’m not subscribed. At least I keep subscribing
I have a Husquavarna that leaks bar oil like crazy , Thanks for a path to fix.
Great timing for this video! I was just noticing on my chainsaw it has a slight oil leak. Now I know where to look for potential leak points!
I changed the oil pump because the bar was remaining dry during use.(stihl ms 180 ).The bar is still dry (hole on the pump lined up with hole where oil has to pass in order to oil bar....test was done before replacing bar...oil was flowing.holes on bar and entire bar was cleaned and still..no oil for my stihl.Can you advise?
Good how to video to deal with a very common problem. 👍
great video and repair I love watching how you work on stihl saws thank you
a repair done correctly. And that's the way it is. Ive replaced quite a few and I've never found a pipe that was punctured yet. they just seem to leak around the grommet. where it goes into the oil tank. And those stupid tank caps are a pain. especially when they aren't on properly and all the oil runs out down you leg !!!
Hi Don, just starting watching your videos, great info and tips. Have a couple of questions for you if you can maybe point me in the right direction. I recently got a MS361 saw as a gift and noticed it will leak bar oil out, roughly half the tank after being topped off and after running the saw. I have laid it on its side with the cap side up and it will still leak the same amount. Would go about replacing the line of the 361 the same way as in your video? Two other things, trying to keep it brief. I’ve noticed after the saw has been running/cutting for a good while maybe 30 minutes or so while having the chain brake engaged to move around safely the saw will shut off on its own, not always and even though the engine is still warm I’ll need to start it with semi choke and it fires right back up. Last thing and this doesn’t do it all the time but every here and there with the saw running and the chain brake disengaged for cutting, with no throttle applied the chain Will very slowly start moving. I’ve had other low end saws in the past but this is my first pro saw and I’m trying to learn the tips and tricks. Any input would be much appreciated when you have the time. Thanks.
Hi sir,I have questions..what type.that glue..I mean that metal glue or just ordinary glue
Could a line leak like this explain why my chainsaw isn't oiling? I already replaced the worm gear which turns the pump on my MS390.
Wow, I have the same problem on my old Stihl WOOD BOSS 028 AV, I’ll have to try to fix it, Thanks for the tip!
I have a wood boss... i have a bar leak and something is wrong with the trigger... if you pull the trigger half way point it runs with no issues but if you pull all the way it shut off... do what that can be?
Awesome video as usual sir. My husqvarna rancher is leaking like that stihl was...👍👍👍
Common with the 55's,probly source out or cheap out ,saws should not aught ta leak everywhere
I also add a slight coating of TB 1184 on the gromett to insure it stays sealed on my saws. I do the same thing to impulse lines and fuel lines, if possible. I do not use it on carburators or carb fittings, because these often need to be removed, occasionally, but on any connection that will be more or less semi-permanent.
Could you use this oil line on an ms210 instead of the plastic one?
Great job. Enjoyed watching the repair.
Does a Poulan have a similar oil line? The one my grandma gave me that was my paw paws after he passed away is a good running little 14" and it pours and I know it's not the cap. I have a 16" Poulan that runs my 18" bar and chain it's a beast
Thanks a lot! Perfectly explained, fantastically edited!
Saws don't necessarily leak oil as such. most of the oil that is on the floor is draining off of the bar and chain and out of the clutch housing. Especially if the oil system is set high on those saws with an oil feed adjuster screw
I'd think a plastic prying tool would be the better choice for reinstalling. Less apt to puncture. Thanks for the video.
I have 2 ? 1 why did the part not have the fuel filter? 2 what would cause a tractor 18.5 B&S engine to loss a compression while using it? Thanks for the great videos I learn a lot and I am 57 years old.
Great video Don. Do you think folks are using the wrong oil and wrecking the line. ( like engine oil not bar oil).
proper oil was used, i've done a few oil lines on the 211
I have a Homelite Ranger 33, I bought used. The Man I got it from couldn't get it to run correctly. He said he tweaked on the low and high speed jets and got them all out of adjustment. Could you tell me a good base to set these screws to so I. An at least get the saw to start, thank you.
This is great. I don’t use my saws much but will be this spring. Was wonder why my new Stihl had so much bae oil under it. Thanks for the vid and $ saved on repair costs!
Donny
Would it be prudent for the oil filter to be replaced at the same time or is the filter able to be cleaned and re used ? If cleaning possible would soaking in kerosene be the way to go about it ?
yes it would be, I didn't replace because this saw was hardly used
We love your videos we have a stihl ms340 that leaks bar oil can you give us some ideas
My local Stihl dealer { Thunder Bay } doesn't carry the Stihl Ultra HP oil. What's up with that? Any other Canucks out there having sourcing issues for synthetic?
I am thinking a wooden popscicle stick might work well to push in the grommets?
thanks for the video. is it the same prosadure for the stihll 034-036
it is different on your saw
Carb question: I have this model and noticed the throttle valve does not open fully when the trigger is pulled. It opens 3/4 of the way. Is this normal?
Thanks Donny: I have the same problem with my older Stihl saw also.
Does this hold true for the MS290? My 290 constantly leaves a puddle. Drives me nuts.
can you tell me why my STIHL MS290 IS LEAKING OIL FROM THE TOP COVER WHEN IT IS RUNNING?
Hey all right I have an MS660 doing these same thing. Will have to change out the line thanks for posting
You are impeccable and always enjoyable, thank you!
Nice job!! You do a great job wiith your videos.
I get a much bigger oil leakage after running the chainsaw, just minimal when its sitting. Does that present a different problem or is it normal to expel more oil when running?
Does this oil line fit a variety of Stihl saws or are they model specific? I have this very same problem on my Wood Boss.
this one is model specific to the ms211
Thanks, I now know what to do when I go to my parts dealer.
Thanks, Don. It looks tedious, but easy enough to replace.
Thanks for the video, just getting into small engine repair 👍.