➡Do you like STIHL's switch and choke system? Also what is the most common reason STIHL Chainsaws come into your shop for? Please comment and let us know!
I'm just a user but I'm used to the Stihl starting system so it works for me. My question to you is this: Do you have a polite way of saying to the customer "Read and follow the %#%^& owners manual starting instructions."? That's all I do and the saw always starts. It's hard to pull over for the first few pulls then it pulls more easily and starts readily.
Why would ANYONE purchase a premium brand chainsaw and NOT read the Owner's Manual? I hope you're charging these people at least 1-hour of your labour.
@@OhNoMrBill-yg3dy No different than a new car. Although the dealer that sold it for 35k+ will be more than likely to explain what you should have read in the manual and not charge. There is no way they could point out anything you may encounter after you drive off the lot. That’s why they have manuals and even DVD’s back in the day. I completely agree 👍
I am a Stihl bronze tech through ace hardware, (Washington) this situation happens all the time, once deflooded, I always repeat the starting procedure with the customer to help the customer be successful next time. Maybe I will send them to watch this video as well.
I’m a silver stihl tech at an ACE in Texas. Donny is absolutely correct. I’m convinced people need to take a class before they buy a saw. If I sell the saw I take the customer into my shop and show them how to start the saw.
@@hflora1049 typical overly complex german engineering. Make simple things very dificult and counterintuitive . Not everyone has an owners manual handy. Not everyone can figure out the "universal" hieroglyphs. And yes. Im German and I own German stuff.
I’ve encountered you numerous times in the comments and I must say that you are more annoying than indecipherable hieroglyphs and sophisticated German engineering. It sounds like you are quite bitter to have been spawned as a needy simpleton that was thrust into a world where intelligence and the ability to learn is advantageous.
Wow! I am glad and grateful to find this channel and get straight-to-the-point explanations in straightforward language that I can understand. I appreciate the clear info without having to sit through the drama. 👍👍
Excellent advice Don. My most common chainsaw repairs are blocked carburettors from dirty fuel containers or wrong fuel mixture. Drop starting putting too much force on the easy start spring and breaking it. Also not using the correct chain oil. Its unbelievable how some people treat their valuable equipment. Have a great day.
I frequently see badly damaged bars. Large burrs and deep grooves at the nose on one side. On most saw work orders, I write that the customer should be counseled to flip and dress the bar with every sharpening.
Full choke, high idle, run, off. This is what a senior Stihl tech support man once told me. The burp s he called it is when you take it out of choke and into high idle.
@@holdenbreauwhen ya hear it fire once, it's choked enuff for a high idle and then low idle...warm up a few and then ready to use..check oil spray on a tree stump for oil line..good to go😊😊😊
@@irchrisb What causes those burrs and grooves? How often do you sharpen a chain? I feel like my MS170 wants sharpening after I run through about three tanks. Is that normal? I should flip the bar that often? What does "dressing the bar" entail? TIA
Spot on. Still running my 1985 024, bought new from a dealer/shop. They went thru the start procedure and advised allowing the saw to warm up at part throttle for a minute or so and letting the weight of the saw be the ammount of force put on the bar when cutting. Don't push it hard. 40 years of flawless service proved them to be correct. I really thought the reason for them being in the shop would have been hammering the throttle on a cold saw.
I have never handled a Stihl chainsaw ! Only owned & operated 3 cheaper Poulan chainsaws. They all have the push/pull choke lever seperate from the ignition on/off lever switch. Now that you have clearly demonstrated the Stihl combination on/off/choke switch mechanism, I believe I could successfully start one & clear a flodded one if someone brought me one! Thanks Dony ! Paul from S. Central Tx.
I have an easy start that I have had so much trouble starting. I take it to the dealers and they all told me it started right out. One guy told me what I was doing wrong but didn’t show me how to do it right. This solves a problem for me. I will stay to start it later today to see if it works.
Been there, done that!! It’s been several years since I had this problem but when my 180 was new I did flood it a few times before I figured out the choke mechanism. I think I may have resorted to reading the instruction manual 😱. Yes, that works.
Great video. My MS250 is easy to flood so I have found great success with only pulling full choke once or twice (regardless if it shows any sign of life) then switching to partial choke.
740 Your method of starting is what my local dealer taught me. My old Farm Boss Stihl always popped after several pulls on choke and I would take it of and most times it would start on first or 2nd pull. My new Stihl 391 does not always pop on choke so to avoid flooding I always pull 3 or 4 times on choke then move lever up to no choke and most of the times it starts. I think part of the problem with the high compression newer saws is that Older guys like me are not strong enough to pull the starter rope fast and several times in a row which would help the saw start better or un flood it.
Thanks for a great video. Technically, Stihl does not recommend pulling the starter rope on full choke until the saw sputters. Rather, they recommend pulling it up to three times, but not more. Stihl advises switching to half choke after 3 pulls, even if the engine does not sputter on full choke. This is to avoid the flooding you demonstrated after repeated pulls on full choke.
YES, good comment. I often had trouble starting my MS211C for the first 2 years I owned it. I mistakenly waited for the "sputter" which often just does not happen. Personally, I find the manual confusing, Finally, a dealer told me the same thing you say --- 2 to 3 pulls maximum on choke, then flip the switch, and give it another pull. Starts very well now all the time. And let the thing warm up for 45 seconds before you go crazy with it.
This something the dealer tells you. But 100 % you are correct. Also many people don't understand that a 2 stroke needs to be warmed up ... let it idle for 2 min or you could have a cold sez
I’m a long time subscriber and enjoy all the instructions here. I’ve gotten pretty good at working on my chainsaws and helping others because of this channel. Please explain to people what the CHOKE is and what the term FLOODED means exactly. I’m shocked at these questions from those that have no clue and are chainsaw owners. Thank you for the great lessons and instructions. God bless. Mike
Very good video for the new user. I would add one item. After the full choke and the partial choke and once your engine is running hit that throttle trigger to allow engine to idle and warm up slowly. That could save you some long term issues.
Wow, this is EPIC ! 💗 I’ve owned 3 STIHL Chainsaws in 15 years-1st was stolen (along with my John Deere tractor… ugh), 2nd I willingly loaned/gifted' to my Auto-Mechanic Son. who needed it... he probably knows all this stuff, and the 3rd, one I’m still occasionally fumbling with now. These tips will save me from a Future of Fumbling, until something finally works! I hope the thief sees this too-he’s probably still struggling just like I was!
A carbureted car is 10 times easier to start than a stupid Stihl saw. Turn key, pump the gas pedal 5 times when the engine is cold then crank , it STARTS. With Stihl????? .........are you serious , you silly german squareheads?
Stihl always asssumes everyone can figure out thier universal hieroglyphs. And complex starting procedure of interlocking this and that. Its so pathetic. Make things simple, not complex and counterintuitive for gosh sakes! These kinds of things frustrate people and destroy brand loyalty. Give a first time user who happens not to have a manual handy,or uses thier stuff only occasionally like 90 % of homeowners. They cant always remember the complex procedure of interlocks and and switches every time they use thier damm equipment. Big warning on thier saws should say FLOOD THIS THING AND YOUR SCREWED..
My local Stihl dealer didn't assist in this regard at all. All he was intent on doing, was fitting me out with as many accessories as possible. I read the manual and had no difficulty.
@@BertGraefDid you even *try* to figure-out the hieroglyphs? Because they make the instructions for a frikkin Lego kit look over-complicated, and those are designed for a 4 year-old... 🙄 Oh yeah... "FLOOD THIS THING AND YOUR* (sic) SCREWED"? -Really? Did you actually watch the video or just come here to make furious/frustrated shouty comments because Stihl equipment is "Too Complicated" for you to operate? *FYI, "You are" shortens to "You're", while "Your" implies posession/ownership of something, but I guess that explains why the hieroglyphs make you so angry, huh?
Choke, Pull, Pull, Pop, Choke Off, Pull, Start. Been using this method for years. Holding wide open and pulling until it starts as you showed is the way to go. Thanks for the vid Don!
This is exactly how it's done. I don't know why people don't just read the instruction manual. If you're fast, you can bump the choke lever down at the same time as the "pop" and it'll take off without another pull of the rope.
Stihl always asssumes everyone can figure out thier universal hieroglyphs. And complex starting procedure of interlocking this and that. Its so pathetic. Make things simple, not complex and counterintuitive for gosh sakes! These kinds of things frustrate people and destroy brand loyalty. Give a first time user who happens not to have a manual handy,or uses thier stuff only occasionally like 90 % of homeowners. They cant always remember the complex procedure of interlocks and and switches every time they use thier damm equipment. Big warning on thier saws should say FLOOD THIS THING AND YOUR SCREWED..
No dude, I’ve already told you that warning “Flood this thing and you’re screwed” was a tattoo above your mommas bush and her brother didn’t know how to read.
@@Truthaddict42Great comment buddy, but sadly I don't think Burt'll be able to read it without a grown-up to help him... As I said in a previous comment, the "complicated hieroglyphs" make the instructions for a Lego kit look over-complicated, and those are designed for a 4 year-old to figure-out... 🙄
Every saw has a little unique trick in the start up procedure. " Flooding the engine" reminds me of the carburetor cars when when I was a kid. Good video.
Excellent video... no rambling on and on like most of the others.... straight to the issue and comprehensive solutions and advice - thanks a billion, pal
Thanks for explaining the starting procedure for Stihl. My saw is really good to start following the manual. My neighbour needs to see this as he has no idea and is constantly complaining about starting his machine. I'll share this with him. Thanks again.
Stihl is destroying itself through thier ridiculous overly complex engineering. Give a first time user, or even occasional one who forgets thier overly complicated starting procedure an exasperating experience , and the user curses the Stihl brand and warns ten others.
The starting procedure is simple and intuitive. I haven’t had a stihl chainsaw for 7 years and I bought a new ms261 a couple of weeks ago and been running it almost every day now. I got no starting demonstration, read the manual, and it fires up with just a few pulls when cold, and first pull when warm every time. If you think the procedure is ridiculously complex and over-engineered, I seriously wonder how mechanically inept you are and how you function at all in life. I definitely wonder why you think you your opinion should have any value to others when you are incapable of executing basic procedures. I wouldn’t say Stihl is destroying itself, I would say that Stihl equipment, perhaps inadvertently, maybe not, has built in operating procedures that eliminate or discourage unqualified individuals from operating their equipment. If starting a Stihl chainsaw is too complicated for someone, then that person should not be operating a chainsaw. There are WAY too many ways to hurt yourself and safe operation is many orders of magnitude more complicated than starting up the equipment.
@@Truthaddict42Very well said indeed Sir... 🙂👍 This dumbass Bert has left a whole bunch of furious comments on this video raging about Stihl equipment being "over complicated", so I advised him that maybe powertools, sharp items or anything "more complicated" than (blunt...) scissors really aren't (or *certainly shouldn't be...* ) "his thing", so I'm pleased that somebody else can see the red flags waving here, huh? 🙄
I am pretty sure a good explanation of how to start the saw, and how the choke system works is included in the instruction manual provide with each chainsaw, of course smart people don't read manuals. They just screw up their saws and then take them to the shop to get fixed. Thanks Donny, for setting the smart people straight as usual. This is the best small engine channel in the world.
Smart engineering keeps simple things simple . I swear those german Stihl engineers are first trained in how to make simple stuff unneceassarily complex and counterintuitive .
@@BertGraefSo you *still* can't figure it out, even after Donny explained it to you *real slow* ...? -Maybe powertools, sharp items and anything more complicated than (blunt...) scissors just aren't "your thing"? 🙄
Great/timely video! Had the same issue at first. Took it back to where i purchased it and they explained how to properly start it. I now have no problem starting my Stihl.
I'm somewhat new to the country life, and bought my first chainsaws 2 years ago - MS 170 & MS 391 - from my local ACE Hardware. The salesman walked me through this exact process...and I paid attention. I've never had any issues starting my saws, and I use them at least once a month. I let a friend borrow my 391 and showed him how to start it. He came back the next day, and said he couldn't get it started. I then started it with only 3 or 4 pulls. I find the easiest way for me to start them is the drop-pull with the chain brake on.
It never ceases to amaze me how many people own equipment and don’t read the owner’s manual. This applies to so many everyday devices we all use but the manual usually contains some insightful information that makes the device that much easier to use. In this case it’s just a failure to start. I would bet the people experiencing this issue have most likely not read the safety instructions either which is a bigger concern. Another great video that will hopefully enlighten some folks 😃
The manual while nice to have doesn't always help someone. There are people who only learn from seeing things done visually. Once they've had something shown to them a few times they can do it with ease and repeat it themselves. My mother is a visual learner but she always has to physically repeat it herself to fully get it. No amount of reading or explaining will help. Show her a couple of times and then let her repeat the steps on her own. :)
@@Slane583 Very good point! Even for those who can read the manual, the quality of where it is produced these days sometimes leaves a lot to be desired 🤪
@@tundranomad Very true! Although when it comes to chainsaws and having repaired different brands the starting process is different. It took me a minute or two to figure out the Stihl the first time I worked on one. It’s an easy start once you are familiar with it but many other brands require pulling the choke out which partially engages the throttle. Both ways accomplish the same thing but are different. It is amazing how many things you can pick up as you maintain and repair different things. I purchased a new personal watercraft many years ago and due to the fuel injection the winterizing process was different than that of the older carburetor style units. The end of season oil change and cylinder fogging required removal of the spark plugs to fog the cylinders. After replacing the plugs the procedure required a crank with no start. This only required holding the throttle at full and cranking which disabled the injectors to prevent a start. Over the years, I have also learned that many cars have the same function. This can be helpful for a vehicle kept in storage for some time. Hold the pedal to the floor and cranking the engine shuts off the injectors and allows oil to flow before running the engine.
@@johnw1178 Indeed. If instructions for everything came in the format LEGO uses for their brick kits I don't think anyone would have an issue putting things together. 😂
I agree. After watching the video it occurred to me that maybe the dealerships should be required by Stihl to give some basic practical operation and safety instruction.
@@briantaylor9266Dealers do give customers a demonstration of how to start and operate the machine during the handover, whether the customer remembers said information is another story.
Hi there, very good channel, been watching it for years and learned so much. I have a Sthil Ms 180 that won’t start. I’ve done everything and I mean every thing to try and sort this problem. If I send you a detailed list of things that I have done, would you give me your opinion? Many thanks David (UK)
Such an excellent video! I have several Stihl products and they all have to be started the same way. They’ve always been difficult to start! But once again, Dony shows us how to avoid the repair shop and save money.
I recommend you use the highest octane gas you can find, for me it is petro-canada 94 oct., mixed with good oil , and most important when you fill your small gas can put the first gallon or 4 liters in your car ( because the transfer valve is far behind the nozzle ) and you will have the best possible fuel. The higher price for this gas is small compare to the benefit on your small engines : trimmer, saw, edger weed eater... please let me know if this helped you
a well engineered chainsaw should be simple to start without having to look for the owners manual every time you use it. NOT EXASPERATING . Because you certainly do forget the complex stihl "procedure" if you only use the thing once every year or two.
@@thujavon62I did not realize this about the transfer valve! Never even thought about it, makes total sense tho. Great tip. The highest octane in my area is 91, so I go with that. And always Chevron.
@@BertGraefI've never had any issues starting Stihl. It's crazy to me that people find it complex. Then again, I grew up around chainsaws so for me it's second nature. My folks own a saw shop and sell Stihl and Shindaiwa. Some of those shindaiwas are fantastic saws as well!
I'm very happy with the switch. Always starts as you described. What I do wonder though is the correct way to put the chain on. Mine came off after using it many times but not checking the adjustment on this occasion. I'm pretty sure I got the orientation correct but I may as well ask the question while I'm here. Easier than finding a manual :)
I don't have many chainsaws come into my shop. Only trimmer/edgers and hedge trimmers. Thanks for showing us this issue with the Stihl saws. I wonder if this principle would apply to the Stihl trimmers and hedge trimmers?
Some Stihl tools have a bulb that pulls fuel through the carb and you can pump all you want without flooding but the "listen for the slightest grumble" then open the choke and pull again still applies.
A carbureted car is 10 times easier to start than a stupid Stihl saw. Turn key, pump the gas pedal 5 times when the engine is cold then crank , it STARTS. With Stihl????? .........are you serious , you silly german squareheads?
Good video. As a chainsaw instructor, I teach the 1-2-3 of the trigger before starting. 1-Throttle Trigger Lock-Out, 2-Throttle Trigger, 3-Master Control Lever. I would like to see you put gloves and eye pro on before starting a saw. DK
Hi, we love your videos..have been watching for few years now. You always anticipate our questions. Thank you..We are still unclear when to safely release so as not burn up the brake when gently revving up the engine after a cold start. Just a few more clarification steps for us newbies are needed. Also have leaved that compression can be so high when first pulling that it can take over 15 pulls for us to get our first burp..saw has been very lightly used over 5 years simply because starting it was always a disappointing process. Again thank you, you have helped with so much over these years.
Great tutorial. I have a Stihl MS260, and I like the choke system. (For context, I also have a Husqvarna and an Echo.) My question is: are the owners not reading the manual for starting instructions, or is the manual poorly written, or both?
The manual is in pictograms/hieroglyphs so that one manual covers all the different languages of the world, and is so well done that it makes the instructions for a Lego kit look complicated... The issue is that people just don't *RTFM* (or even look at the frikkin pictures)...
I love all my Stihls, they seem to all need a little work with loose bolts at the oil reserve tank. There are many times i don't even use the choke on a couple of my stihls. What i do worry about is yanking on the easy start rope, sometimes i forget and rip away.
Good video and I'm glad I'm starting mine properly. I have a Stihl MS181 C-BE that I got in 2021 and I never remember how to do it. Unlike what sounds like lots of people, I read through the manual to make sure I don't screw it up and flood it. I don't use it enough so it just doesn't sink in. Been using only Tru Fuel 50:1 since I got it and it has always started within a few pulls.
Once I learned how to, it's okay! I learned to cut with a Homelite and McCullough as a teen. My saw is Husqvarna 55 Ranch that refuses to die! Stihl is engineered to frustrate at times... Good tips! 👏👍
Stihl is destroying itself through thier ridiculous overly complex engineering. Give a first time user, or even occasional one who forgets thier overly complicated starting procedure an exasperating experience , and the user curses the Stihl brand and warns ten others.
I wish Stihl would design the handle to increase the lip size on the left. I start on the ground. So often I'll have boots on. Can't fit inside the handle. Very good RUclips.
Good advice. One tip I have learnt is to use the weight of the saw for starting. Instead of holding it between your legs I drop the saw down and at the same time pull the cord. It requires very little effort.
I have to do that when I'm up in the bucket vs with a foot on the saw. (old & weak lol) Best to have a saw warmed up before I climb in. Always think I'll drop one trying to cold start while hanging it over the side.
Perplexed! Brought up to keep equipment in ready order. 40 & 30 year old Stihl saws and trimmers start on third pull thanks to my up bringing and your show. Thanks for that🤗 Despite the care I have misplaced the THRUST WASHER for my Stihl FS66 Brush Cutter. Dealer, Stihl Corp., says NO LONGER AVAILABLE. Scoured the internet and rummaged small engine repair "dumps". The STAR thrust washer is readily available, but not the older version I need. Rats!!! Maybe you can steer me in the correct direction. Thanks
Great information you just told us. Thanks for explaining this to the Sthil people. If every I have to start one or buy one I would no what to do. Thanks bud.
I cut with a 1982 Jonsereds 625 for decades, it seems and had the carb rebuilt only once. Choke worked, on/ off switch was easy to find. Best saw I ever owned. Air filter was easy to clean.
Graet Video, when my freinds and family members ask what's wrong with there equipment, I tell them it just needs a new owner ! then I show them this video, Thanks For Sharing !
I think the best saw that steel chainsaw makes is the 500i I love that chainsaw fuel injected starts every time and it has a lot of power. Love it. Great video as usual.
Seems the higher end the Stihl the better they start and restart after refueling. Something about the low end saws make them hard to start. I have used the method shown and the low end saws still are hard to get going and keep going.
I've got a fuel injected MS261.. The start up on it is so NICE compared to my 271. I wish I had a 500i tho. I've got some big black walnut to cut and need the extra poop. What size bar do you run on yours?
At the risk of losing my "man-card", the cause (in my opinion) is the lack of reading the owner's manual where it shows you how to start the saw. lol 😉
@@knighthawk86855 hahaha...oh-oh...I was a heavy equipment mechanic and had to read a lot of service manuals...perhaps the titanium card I had back then helped?? 😁
I want to thank you for your help. I watched your videos and restored my ms180c. Question, I bought a aftermarket carb and it came with gaskets. Is there supposed to be a gasket between the intake and carb? And do keep the little hole on the carb open? The kit gasket partially covers that hole...thanks a bunch Don...
My brother in law brought me two of his Stihl chainsaws saying they wouldn't start. I went through the proper starting process and sure enough they would not start. I poured out his motomix and put in my mix 91 ethanol free gas with VP racing 2-stroke oil 50:1 and they started up perfectly.
Thanks Don. I have the MS290, I'm very happy you showed how to start the chainsaw correctly and how to unflood the chainsaw. . I only use it once or twice in the Summer.
trust me,,, you will forget the Stihl start "procedure" , flood the saw next season and waste another hour of your life next year either searchng for the manual or coming back here.
With my 261CM, I set the full choke setting, and it starts that way. I then let it run that way for 5-10 seconds before blipping the throttle, removing the choke. I've never used the half-choke feature. The only time I use that is on my BR700, which hasn't been run for a day or two. Full choke and a prime if it sits longer.
I leave a sticky note on my Stihl with the procedure spelled out because I use it rarely and forget how to get it started quickly. Plus I have Husky's and they have a slightly different procedure.
The alternative to all this is for the owner to read the manual before they use the saw. It is pretty clear on the starting procedure. I've never had a problem starting My MS271.
thank you for the content. very valuable. I once experienced on a 361 that it never gave me the stutter or burp and kept pulling it till I was wore out. in retrospect I am pretty sure I flooded it . what is the max pulls you would do on full choke before going back to 1/2 choke or even just start position, I've seen some say only 2 or 3 pulls on full choke even if it doesn't burp, but sometimes my saws take maybe 5, esp when having sat a while. is it a valid technique to pull x times and go to 1/2 choke? thanks Kevin
Ms180c here. Saw was less than a month old and stopped running, wouldn’t start. Ace hardware replaced the spark plug and voila. Said I running too rich. I’ve been mixing 50:1 for 15 years for an Echo backpack blower and never a problem. Brought my Stihl home, cleaned up the original spark plug, and runs fine. Now I have a new spare plug. Live and learn.
Good video, I would add though just for the likely inexperienced operators that are watching this - Don't leave the chainbreak off when you're starting the saw like is shown in the video! Make sure it's engaged. You don't need it off to start the saw and it's much more dangerous/easier to damage your chain if you accidentally hit your bar on something.
Used to have an 025. I figured that out right away. Eventually it got carboned up so badly I wasn't strong enough to crank it. Got an 80V electric, works for me.
This video may save lives. How many have considered that everything they do our touch doesn't work and get discouraged when trying to run a saw and want to end it all.
Stihl were the first saw I learned how to use, so I learned the system. I just never used 2 stroke a whole lot, so sometimes I have to refamiliarize. I've also heard if there's a bulb to prime them, to press that like 7 times first.
Question: why do you choose to not have the chain brake on when starting? Does it put unnecessary stress on the clutch or is there another reason? I usually have it on so the chain is not spinning upon start up, but if it is somehow harming the saw I’ll leave it off and just be extra not dumb when I start it.
I am considering buying an MS 170 for home use. I have a heavily wooded lot and need to do a lot of cleanup and felling a couple of smaller trees. I am looking for opinions on this saw.
I have an ms391 that I have had trouble restarting when hot after turning it off to refuel. I will check to see if I am doing something wrong. Also it has never put out enough bar oil since it was new even with the oil adjustment fully open. Ever heard of that?
I have the starting process pretty well committed to memory by now, but for a long while I would review the manual before I used the saw to make sure I had it right. Manual stays in the case w/the saw. Back before fuel injection we used to "unflood" cars the same way - open the throttle and blow the gas out.
I hate that switch. Never had a problem starting the saw but my thumb is always hitting the lever and shutting the saw off. It's another example of Stihl's over engineered for no purpose device. A simple toggle switch and separate choke linkage work just fine!
I start my ms180 the way you show. It never starts. I have to remove air cln cover, hold hand over air intake, pull till stutter, then it'll start and after a short warm up I repl cover and it runs fine with power. Thinking carb, or reed valve if it has one.
Hey Donny, I have one for you. I have a Stihl 021, that I have owned since new , over 30 years ago. For most of it's life, it doesn't matter if I haven't started it in a week, a month or since last year, I choke it and pull it either 8 or 9 times before it pops, then it starts right up after shutting the choke off. I did a carb kit once, but it still started the same way. Any guesses why?
➡Do you like STIHL's switch and choke system? Also what is the most common reason STIHL Chainsaws come into your shop for?
Please comment and let us know!
@@donyboy73 I think it’s a good system and works very well. Although as your video clearly points out, you need to be familiar with it 😉
I'm just a user but I'm used to the Stihl starting system so it works for me. My question to you is this: Do you have a polite way of saying to the customer "Read and follow the %#%^& owners manual starting instructions."? That's all I do and the saw always starts. It's hard to pull over for the first few pulls then it pulls more easily and starts readily.
Why would ANYONE purchase a premium brand chainsaw and NOT read the Owner's Manual? I hope you're charging these people at least 1-hour of your labour.
@@OhNoMrBill-yg3dy No different than a new car. Although the dealer that sold it for 35k+ will be more than likely to explain what you should have read in the manual and not charge. There is no way they could point out anything you may encounter after you drive off the lot. That’s why they have manuals and even DVD’s back in the day. I completely agree 👍
@@Farmer-bh3cg chickmecanic shows how to start first pull starter cord couple short pulls before really pulling
Yep. When I got my first Stihl I made the same mistakes. Then I read the manual 😅. Great tips. Thanks Donny
I am a Stihl bronze tech through ace hardware, (Washington) this situation happens all the time, once deflooded, I always repeat the starting procedure with the customer to help the customer be successful next time. Maybe I will send them to watch this video as well.
I’m a silver stihl tech at an ACE in Texas. Donny is absolutely correct. I’m convinced people need to take a class before they buy a saw. If I sell the saw I take the customer into my shop and show them how to start the saw.
@@hflora1049I’m a platinum tech
@@hflora1049 typical overly complex german engineering. Make simple things very dificult and counterintuitive . Not everyone has an owners manual handy. Not everyone can figure out the "universal" hieroglyphs. And yes. Im German and I own German stuff.
I’ve encountered you numerous times in the comments and I must say that you are more annoying than indecipherable hieroglyphs and sophisticated German engineering. It sounds like you are quite bitter to have been spawned as a needy simpleton that was thrust into a world where intelligence and the ability to learn is advantageous.
@@hflora1049that’s why I like the pro saws just a little bit more, it’s 2 movements to start over 3.
Wow! I am glad and grateful to find this channel and get straight-to-the-point explanations in straightforward language that I can understand. I appreciate the clear info without having to sit through the drama. 👍👍
Excellent advice Don. My most common chainsaw repairs are blocked carburettors from dirty fuel containers or wrong fuel mixture. Drop starting putting too much force on the easy start spring and breaking it. Also not using the correct chain oil. Its unbelievable how some people treat their valuable equipment. Have a great day.
I frequently see badly damaged bars. Large burrs and deep grooves at the nose on one side. On most saw work orders, I write that the customer should be counseled to flip and dress the bar with every sharpening.
Full choke, high idle, run, off. This is what a senior Stihl tech support man once told me. The burp s he called it is when you take it out of choke and into high idle.
Yeah it is the a count of abuse people put their investments through is beyond
@@holdenbreauwhen ya hear it fire once, it's choked enuff for a high idle and then low idle...warm up a few and then ready to use..check oil spray on a tree stump for oil line..good to go😊😊😊
@@irchrisb What causes those burrs and grooves?
How often do you sharpen a chain? I feel like my MS170 wants sharpening after I run through about three tanks. Is that normal? I should flip the bar that often?
What does "dressing the bar" entail?
TIA
Spot on. Still running my 1985 024, bought new from a dealer/shop. They went thru the start procedure and advised allowing the saw to warm up at part throttle for a minute or so and letting the weight of the saw be the ammount of force put on the bar when cutting. Don't push it hard. 40 years of flawless service proved them to be correct. I really thought the reason for them being in the shop would have been hammering the throttle on a cold saw.
So the engine has not been reconditioned at all? 😲😲
@@wolverine89893mi e is 24 years old...no issues
Your lucky I had an 84 032 best saw I ever had no brake accessible plug unfortunately the coil and carb went and couldn't get parts.
@@wolverine89893 Nothing done to it except for a couple of spark plugs and air filters.
I have never handled a Stihl chainsaw ! Only owned & operated 3 cheaper Poulan chainsaws. They all have the push/pull choke lever seperate from the ignition on/off lever switch. Now that you have clearly demonstrated the Stihl combination on/off/choke switch mechanism, I believe I could successfully start one & clear a flodded one if someone brought me one! Thanks Dony ! Paul from S. Central Tx.
I have an easy start that I have had so much trouble starting. I take it to the dealers and they all told me it started right out. One guy told me what I was doing wrong but didn’t show me how to do it right. This solves a problem for me. I will stay to start it later today to see if it works.
You and Steve’s saloon are the best
Right on buddy!
What's the beer of the day Sir?
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon Don’s a great guy but he needs some beer in his life!!
@@donh215 If you didn't notice, he had a Coors can on the workbench!
@@royevans7793 ok, REAL beer then
Been there, done that!!
It’s been several years since I had this problem but when my 180 was new I did flood it a few times before I figured out the choke mechanism. I think I may have resorted to reading the instruction manual 😱. Yes, that works.
Yep! Good advice. The advice as to how not to flood the engine is described in the manual. Trouble is, many do not read the manual.
Great video. My MS250 is easy to flood so I have found great success with only pulling full choke once or twice (regardless if it shows any sign of life) then switching to partial choke.
740 Your method of starting is what my local dealer taught me. My old Farm Boss Stihl always popped after several pulls on choke and I would take it of and most times it would start on first or 2nd pull. My new Stihl 391 does not always pop on choke so to avoid flooding I always pull 3 or 4 times on choke then move lever up to no choke and most of the times it starts. I think part of the problem with the high compression newer saws is that Older guys like me are not strong enough to pull the starter rope fast and several times in a row which would help the saw start better or un flood it.
Thanks for a great video. Technically, Stihl does not recommend pulling the starter rope on full choke until the saw sputters. Rather, they recommend pulling it up to three times, but not more. Stihl advises switching to half choke after 3 pulls, even if the engine does not sputter on full choke. This is to avoid the flooding you demonstrated after repeated pulls on full choke.
This made all the difference with my MS 250. Using full choke until it sputters would flood it so fast.
YES, good comment. I often had trouble starting my MS211C for the first 2 years I owned it.
I mistakenly waited for the "sputter" which often just does not happen.
Personally, I find the manual confusing, Finally, a dealer told me the same thing you say --- 2 to 3 pulls maximum on choke, then flip the switch, and give it another pull. Starts very well now all the time.
And let the thing warm up for 45 seconds before you go crazy with it.
This something the dealer tells you. But 100 % you are correct. Also many people don't understand that a 2 stroke needs to be warmed up ... let it idle for 2 min or you could have a cold sez
I’m a long time subscriber and enjoy all the instructions here. I’ve gotten pretty good at working on my chainsaws and helping others because of this channel. Please explain to people what the CHOKE is and what the term FLOODED means exactly. I’m shocked at these questions from those that have no clue and are chainsaw owners. Thank you for the great lessons and instructions. God bless.
Mike
Very good video for the new user. I would add one item. After the full choke and the partial choke and once your engine is running hit that throttle trigger to allow engine to idle and warm up slowly. That could save you some long term issues.
Wow, this is EPIC ! 💗 I’ve owned 3 STIHL Chainsaws in 15 years-1st was stolen (along with my John Deere tractor… ugh), 2nd I willingly loaned/gifted' to my Auto-Mechanic Son. who needed it... he probably knows all this stuff, and the 3rd, one I’m still occasionally fumbling with now. These tips will save me from a Future of Fumbling, until something finally works! I hope the thief sees this too-he’s probably still struggling just like I was!
A carbureted car is 10 times easier to start than a stupid Stihl saw. Turn key, pump the gas pedal 5 times when the engine is cold then crank , it STARTS. With Stihl????? .........are you serious , you silly german squareheads?
I think a lot of people buy saws mail order or from big box shops. It is a good reason to go to a local dealer who will show you how to start it.
No doubt about that.
Stihl always asssumes everyone can figure out thier universal hieroglyphs. And complex starting procedure of interlocking this and that. Its so pathetic. Make things simple, not complex and counterintuitive for gosh sakes! These kinds of things frustrate people and destroy brand loyalty. Give a first time user who happens not to have a manual handy,or uses thier stuff only occasionally like 90 % of homeowners. They cant always remember the complex procedure of interlocks and and switches every time they use thier damm equipment. Big warning on thier saws should say FLOOD THIS THING AND YOUR SCREWED..
My local Stihl dealer didn't assist in this regard at all. All he was intent on doing, was fitting me out with as many accessories as possible. I read the manual and had no difficulty.
I bought mine from a Stihl Dealer and got a new hat. But no advice.
@@BertGraefDid you even *try* to figure-out the hieroglyphs?
Because they make the instructions for a frikkin Lego kit look over-complicated, and those are designed for a 4 year-old... 🙄
Oh yeah... "FLOOD THIS THING AND YOUR* (sic) SCREWED"?
-Really?
Did you actually watch the video or just come here to make furious/frustrated shouty comments because Stihl equipment is "Too Complicated" for you to operate?
*FYI, "You are" shortens to "You're", while "Your" implies posession/ownership of something, but I guess that explains why the hieroglyphs make you so angry, huh?
Choke, Pull, Pull, Pop, Choke Off, Pull, Start. Been using this method for years. Holding wide open and pulling until it starts as you showed is the way to go. Thanks for the vid Don!
This is exactly how it's done. I don't know why people don't just read the instruction manual. If you're fast, you can bump the choke lever down at the same time as the "pop" and it'll take off without another pull of the rope.
Stihl always asssumes everyone can figure out thier universal hieroglyphs. And complex starting procedure of interlocking this and that. Its so pathetic. Make things simple, not complex and counterintuitive for gosh sakes! These kinds of things frustrate people and destroy brand loyalty. Give a first time user who happens not to have a manual handy,or uses thier stuff only occasionally like 90 % of homeowners. They cant always remember the complex procedure of interlocks and and switches every time they use thier damm equipment. Big warning on thier saws should say FLOOD THIS THING AND YOUR SCREWED..
No dude, I’ve already told you that warning “Flood this thing and you’re screwed” was a tattoo above your mommas bush and her brother didn’t know how to read.
i even start my outboard like this LOL
@@Truthaddict42Great comment buddy, but sadly I don't think Burt'll be able to read it without a grown-up to help him...
As I said in a previous comment, the "complicated hieroglyphs" make the instructions for a Lego kit look over-complicated, and those are designed for a 4 year-old to figure-out... 🙄
Every saw has a little unique trick in the start up procedure. " Flooding the engine" reminds me of the carburetor cars when when I was a kid. Good video.
Excellent video... no rambling on and on like most of the others.... straight to the issue and comprehensive solutions and advice - thanks a billion, pal
There was too much rambling and too much repetition.
Thanks for explaining the starting procedure for Stihl. My saw is really good to start following the manual. My neighbour needs to see this as he has no idea and is constantly complaining about starting his machine. I'll share this with him. Thanks again.
Stihl is destroying itself through thier ridiculous overly complex engineering. Give a first time user, or even occasional one who forgets thier overly complicated starting procedure an exasperating experience , and the user curses the Stihl brand and warns ten others.
The starting procedure is simple and intuitive. I haven’t had a stihl chainsaw for 7 years and I bought a new ms261 a couple of weeks ago and been running it almost every day now. I got no starting demonstration, read the manual, and it fires up with just a few pulls when cold, and first pull when warm every time. If you think the procedure is ridiculously complex and over-engineered, I seriously wonder how mechanically inept you are and how you function at all in life. I definitely wonder why you think you your opinion should have any value to others when you are incapable of executing basic procedures. I wouldn’t say Stihl is destroying itself, I would say that Stihl equipment, perhaps inadvertently, maybe not, has built in operating procedures that eliminate or discourage unqualified individuals from operating their equipment. If starting a Stihl chainsaw is too complicated for someone, then that person should not be operating a chainsaw. There are WAY too many ways to hurt yourself and safe operation is many orders of magnitude more complicated than starting up the equipment.
@@Truthaddict42Very well said indeed Sir... 🙂👍
This dumbass Bert has left a whole bunch of furious comments on this video raging about Stihl equipment being "over complicated", so I advised him that maybe powertools, sharp items or anything "more complicated" than (blunt...) scissors really aren't (or *certainly shouldn't be...* ) "his thing", so I'm pleased that somebody else can see the red flags waving here, huh? 🙄
I am pretty sure a good explanation of how to start the saw, and how the choke system works is included in the instruction manual provide with each chainsaw, of course smart people don't read manuals. They just screw up their saws and then take them to the shop to get fixed. Thanks Donny, for setting the smart people straight as usual. This is the best small engine channel in the world.
Smart engineering keeps simple things simple . I swear those german Stihl engineers are first trained in how to make simple stuff unneceassarily complex and counterintuitive .
@@BertGraefSo you *still* can't figure it out, even after Donny explained it to you *real slow* ...?
-Maybe powertools, sharp items and anything more complicated than (blunt...) scissors just aren't "your thing"? 🙄
Great/timely video! Had the same issue at first. Took it back to where i purchased it and they explained how to properly start it. I now have no problem starting my Stihl.
I'm somewhat new to the country life, and bought my first chainsaws 2 years ago - MS 170 & MS 391 - from my local ACE Hardware. The salesman walked me through this exact process...and I paid attention. I've never had any issues starting my saws, and I use them at least once a month. I let a friend borrow my 391 and showed him how to start it. He came back the next day, and said he couldn't get it started. I then started it with only 3 or 4 pulls. I find the easiest way for me to start them is the drop-pull with the chain brake on.
It never ceases to amaze me how many people own equipment and don’t read the owner’s manual. This applies to so many everyday devices we all use but the manual usually contains some insightful information that makes the device that much easier to use. In this case it’s just a failure to start. I would bet the people experiencing this issue have most likely not read the safety instructions either which is a bigger concern. Another great video that will hopefully enlighten some folks 😃
Especially when the person has no familiarity with the item.
The manual while nice to have doesn't always help someone. There are people who only learn from seeing things done visually. Once they've had something shown to them a few times they can do it with ease and repeat it themselves. My mother is a visual learner but she always has to physically repeat it herself to fully get it. No amount of reading or explaining will help. Show her a couple of times and then let her repeat the steps on her own. :)
@@Slane583 Very good point! Even for those who can read the manual, the quality of where it is produced these days sometimes leaves a lot to be desired 🤪
@@tundranomad Very true! Although when it comes to chainsaws and having repaired different brands the starting process is different. It took me a minute or two to figure out the Stihl the first time I worked on one. It’s an easy start once you are familiar with it but many other brands require pulling the choke out which partially engages the throttle. Both ways accomplish the same thing but are different.
It is amazing how many things you can pick up as you maintain and repair different things. I purchased a new personal watercraft many years ago and due to the fuel injection the winterizing process was different than that of the older carburetor style units. The end of season oil change and cylinder fogging required removal of the spark plugs to fog the cylinders. After replacing the plugs the procedure required a crank with no start. This only required holding the throttle at full and cranking which disabled the injectors to prevent a start. Over the years, I have also learned that many cars have the same function. This can be helpful for a vehicle kept in storage for some time. Hold the pedal to the floor and cranking the engine shuts off the injectors and allows oil to flow before running the engine.
@@johnw1178 Indeed. If instructions for everything came in the format LEGO uses for their brick kits I don't think anyone would have an issue putting things together. 😂
You are a good teacher....you provide the instructions along with the concept. Thanks
The dealership is a big part of the customer experience, without good and clear instructions it will always happen. Great video thank you.
I agree. After watching the video it occurred to me that maybe the dealerships should be required by Stihl to give some basic practical operation and safety instruction.
@@briantaylor9266 They probably do. But does the customer pay attention?
@@briantaylor9266Dealers do give customers a demonstration of how to start and operate the machine during the handover, whether the customer remembers said information is another story.
@@astroboy5137 if so the dealership has failed the first fundamentals, capture the customer attention.
That's a good reason to buy from a dealer instead of big box stores
Hi there, very good channel, been watching it for years and learned so much. I have a Sthil Ms 180 that won’t start. I’ve done everything and I mean every thing to try and sort this problem. If I send you a detailed list of things that I have done, would you give me your opinion?
Many thanks
David (UK)
Such an excellent video! I have several Stihl products and they all have to be started the same way. They’ve always been difficult to start! But once again, Dony shows us how to avoid the repair shop and save money.
I recommend you use the highest octane gas you can find, for me it is petro-canada 94 oct., mixed with good oil , and most important when you fill your small gas can put the first gallon or 4 liters in your car ( because the transfer valve is far behind the nozzle ) and you will have the best possible fuel. The higher price for this gas is small compare to the benefit on your small engines : trimmer, saw, edger weed eater... please let me know if this helped you
a well engineered chainsaw should be simple to start without having to look for the owners manual every time you use it. NOT EXASPERATING . Because you certainly do forget the complex stihl "procedure" if you only use the thing once every year or two.
@@BertGraef"The complex Stihl proceedure"?
FFS...😅😂🤣
@@thujavon62I did not realize this about the transfer valve! Never even thought about it, makes total sense tho. Great tip.
The highest octane in my area is 91, so I go with that. And always Chevron.
@@BertGraefI've never had any issues starting Stihl. It's crazy to me that people find it complex. Then again, I grew up around chainsaws so for me it's second nature. My folks own a saw shop and sell Stihl and Shindaiwa.
Some of those shindaiwas are fantastic saws as well!
Yes, perfect explaination. Tip, I keep a closed ny-ty on handle that will fit both triggers, just in case I or somebody floods it. Tks
I'm very happy with the switch. Always starts as you described. What I do wonder though is the correct way to put the chain on. Mine came off after using it many times but not checking the adjustment on this occasion. I'm pretty sure I got the orientation correct but I may as well ask the question while I'm here. Easier than finding a manual :)
I don't have many chainsaws come into my shop. Only trimmer/edgers and hedge trimmers. Thanks for showing us this issue with the Stihl saws. I wonder if this principle would apply to the Stihl trimmers and hedge trimmers?
Some Stihl tools have a bulb that pulls fuel through the carb and you can pump all you want without flooding but the "listen for the slightest grumble" then open the choke and pull again still applies.
@@wayneessar7489. You’re right on!
Yup, all Stihl carbs work this way 🙂👍
I've worked on 2 Stihls saws without the manuals and didn't realize the correct way to start it. Thanks for the great video.
A carbureted car is 10 times easier to start than a stupid Stihl saw. Turn key, pump the gas pedal 5 times when the engine is cold then crank , it STARTS. With Stihl????? .........are you serious , you silly german squareheads?
Good video. As a chainsaw instructor, I teach the 1-2-3 of the trigger before starting. 1-Throttle Trigger Lock-Out, 2-Throttle Trigger, 3-Master Control Lever. I would like to see you put gloves and eye pro on before starting a saw. DK
Hi, we love your videos..have been watching for few years now. You always anticipate our questions. Thank you..We are still unclear when to safely release so as not burn up the brake when gently revving up the engine after a cold start. Just a few more clarification steps for us newbies are needed. Also have leaved that compression can be so high when first pulling that it can take over 15 pulls for us to get our first burp..saw has been very lightly used over 5 years simply because starting it was always a disappointing process. Again thank you, you have helped with so much over these years.
Great tutorial. I have a Stihl MS260, and I like the choke system. (For context, I also have a Husqvarna and an Echo.) My question is: are the owners not reading the manual for starting instructions, or is the manual poorly written, or both?
The manual is in pictograms/hieroglyphs so that one manual covers all the different languages of the world, and is so well done that it makes the instructions for a Lego kit look complicated...
The issue is that people just don't *RTFM* (or even look at the frikkin pictures)...
RTFM :) Good video, manual for the saw has these instructions, seemed clear to me.
Yup, one of my father's favourite sayings (and he had LOTS of them) was "If all else fails, read the instructions".
I love all my Stihls, they seem to all need a little work with loose bolts at the oil reserve tank. There are many times i don't even use the choke on a couple of my stihls. What i do worry about is yanking on the easy start rope, sometimes i forget and rip away.
Good video and I'm glad I'm starting mine properly. I have a Stihl MS181 C-BE that I got in 2021 and I never remember how to do it. Unlike what sounds like lots of people, I read through the manual to make sure I don't screw it up and flood it. I don't use it enough so it just doesn't sink in. Been using only Tru Fuel 50:1 since I got it and it has always started within a few pulls.
Once I learned how to, it's okay! I learned to cut with a Homelite and McCullough as a teen. My saw is Husqvarna 55 Ranch that refuses to die! Stihl is engineered to frustrate at times... Good tips! 👏👍
Stihl is destroying itself through thier ridiculous overly complex engineering. Give a first time user, or even occasional one who forgets thier overly complicated starting procedure an exasperating experience , and the user curses the Stihl brand and warns ten others.
I wish Stihl would design the handle to increase the lip size on the left. I start on the ground. So often I'll have boots on. Can't fit inside the handle. Very good RUclips.
Agree. I gotta know Stihl’s reasoning for the lip
putting your right foot on the right side of the handle (usually wider on the right side) and pulling with your left hand works pretty good
Put a stick in the handle and put your foot on the part of the stick that's outside of the handle.
Good advice. One tip I have learnt is to use the weight of the saw for starting. Instead of holding it between your legs I drop the saw down and at the same time pull the cord. It requires very little effort.
I have to do that when I'm up in the bucket vs with a foot on the saw. (old & weak lol) Best to have a saw warmed up before I climb in. Always think I'll drop one trying to cold start while hanging it over the side.
Thanks Dony. I didn't realize what caused the flooding problem. My friend may have done that once or twice.
Perplexed! Brought up to keep equipment in ready order. 40 & 30 year old Stihl saws and trimmers start on third pull thanks to my up bringing and your show. Thanks for that🤗
Despite the care I have misplaced the THRUST WASHER for my Stihl FS66 Brush Cutter. Dealer, Stihl Corp., says NO LONGER AVAILABLE. Scoured the internet and rummaged small engine repair "dumps". The STAR thrust washer is readily available, but not the older version I need. Rats!!! Maybe you can steer me in the correct direction. Thanks
send me an image at donyboy73@yahoo.com
Great information you just told us. Thanks for explaining this to the Sthil people. If every I have to start one or buy one I would no what to do. Thanks bud.
I cut with a 1982 Jonsereds 625 for decades, it seems and had the carb rebuilt only once. Choke worked, on/ off switch was easy to find. Best saw I ever owned. Air filter was easy to clean.
Cool, MS 391 here. Been doing like you showed for like 10 years, awesome saw. Thanks for the refresher course!
Graet Video, when my freinds and family members ask what's wrong with there equipment, I tell them it just needs a new owner ! then I show them this video, Thanks For Sharing !
I think the best saw that steel chainsaw makes is the 500i I love that chainsaw fuel injected starts every time and it has a lot of power. Love it. Great video as usual.
Seems the higher end the Stihl the better they start and restart after refueling. Something about the low end saws make them hard to start. I have used the method shown and the low end saws still are hard to get going and keep going.
I've got a fuel injected MS261.. The start up on it is so NICE compared to my 271.
I wish I had a 500i tho. I've got some big black walnut to cut and need the extra poop. What size bar do you run on yours?
@@AnHebrewChildMost bought Stihl by forestry workers is the MS261.
At the risk of losing my "man-card", the cause (in my opinion) is the lack of reading the owner's manual where it shows you how to start the saw. lol 😉
Yep lol
You don't lose your man card, you just get a hole punched, you only get 5 hole punches..... Lol, you are absolutely correct sir.
I was thinking the same thing!
Ditto. Ditto. Ditto!!
@@knighthawk86855 hahaha...oh-oh...I was a heavy equipment mechanic and had to read a lot of service manuals...perhaps the titanium card I had back then helped??
😁
I want to thank you for your help. I watched your videos and restored my ms180c. Question, I bought a aftermarket carb and it came with gaskets. Is there supposed to be a gasket between the intake and carb? And do keep the little hole on the carb open? The kit gasket partially covers that hole...thanks a bunch Don...
My great pride with my Stilh saw is that it starts on the 2nd pull after choke off. EVERY TIME WINTER INCL.
My brother in law brought me two of his Stihl chainsaws saying they wouldn't start. I went through the proper starting process and sure enough they would not start. I poured out his motomix and put in my mix 91 ethanol free gas with VP racing 2-stroke oil 50:1 and they started up perfectly.
Outstanding video, clear and concise. Good quality on the production👍
I bought a 262xp for 30 bucks. Guy couldn't get it started. It was flooded big time. Best 30 bucks i ever spent.
wow... what a steal (Stihl)!
That's pretty simple Dony. I don't have one but still didn't know this about them. Thanks for the lesson..lol
Thanks Don. I have the MS290, I'm very happy you showed how to start the chainsaw correctly and how to unflood the chainsaw. . I only use it once or twice in the Summer.
trust me,,, you will forget the Stihl start "procedure" , flood the saw next season and waste another hour of your life next year either searchng for the manual or coming back here.
@@BertGraefFrom all your angry and frustrated comments on this video, I wouldn't trust you to open a letter without hurting yourself... 🙄
@@therogers4432 He must have got his Stihl flooded and wasted an hour on youtube until he found this video.
With my 261CM, I set the full choke setting, and it starts that way. I then let it run that way for 5-10 seconds before blipping the throttle, removing the choke. I've never used the half-choke feature. The only time I use that is on my BR700, which hasn't been run for a day or two. Full choke and a prime if it sits longer.
I leave a sticky note on my Stihl with the procedure spelled out because I use it rarely and forget how to get it started quickly. Plus I have Husky's and they have a slightly different procedure.
Stihl should just make a badge on the case for incidental users. 😉
Guy that sold me mine in 2000 said same thing..ive never had a problem with farm oss 029..still runs
Great video buddy very helpful I have a still 250 and you are right they flood easy thanks for sharing
The alternative to all this is for the owner to read the manual before they use the saw. It is pretty clear on the starting procedure. I've never had a problem starting My MS271.
Good informative video. I own an MS261 for 10 years with no issues.
I have always found that switching means to be counterintuitive, up for off?? Great info!👍
Just watching this video even though I own a husqvarna. Very interesting on how to start a Stihl!
Precisely "Why" I run Husqvarnas ! I have to Stihl's but those are for specific emergency services, and I tend to run them a little hot... 🤷🏼♂️
Thank you donyboy of showing about me about that chainsaw Joe from Woodlake Ca have a good day 😊
thank you for the content. very valuable.
I once experienced on a 361 that it never gave me the stutter or burp and kept pulling it till I was wore out.
in retrospect I am pretty sure I flooded it . what is the max pulls you would do on full choke before going back to 1/2 choke or even just start position,
I've seen some say only 2 or 3 pulls on full choke even if it doesn't burp, but sometimes my saws take maybe 5, esp when having sat a while.
is it a valid technique to pull x times and go to 1/2 choke?
thanks
Kevin
Ms180c here. Saw was less than a month old and stopped running, wouldn’t start. Ace hardware replaced the spark plug and voila. Said I running too rich. I’ve been mixing 50:1 for 15 years for an Echo backpack blower and never a problem. Brought my Stihl home, cleaned up the original spark plug, and runs fine. Now I have a new spare plug. Live and learn.
GREAT TO HAVE YOU HERE N THANKS
Good video, I would add though just for the likely inexperienced operators that are watching this - Don't leave the chainbreak off when you're starting the saw like is shown in the video! Make sure it's engaged. You don't need it off to start the saw and it's much more dangerous/easier to damage your chain if you accidentally hit your bar on something.
Thanks for educating us on all you do. I watch all your videos... 👍
Still quality videos after all these years. Thanks.
Great information sir thank you for sharing your wisdom
Thank you for the simplistic understanding. Now I know what I’ve been doing wrong.
Excellent video! Even thought I did read the manual, I always seem to have trouble starting my saw...
Used to have an 025. I figured that out right away.
Eventually it got carboned up so badly I wasn't strong enough to crank it.
Got an 80V electric, works for me.
The electric saw will always start!
God bless ..don...hope all is well up there...
This video may save lives. How many have considered that everything they do our touch doesn't work and get discouraged when trying to run a saw and want to end it all.
Stihl were the first saw I learned how to use, so I learned the system. I just never used 2 stroke a whole lot, so sometimes I have to refamiliarize. I've also heard if there's a bulb to prime them, to press that like 7 times first.
Question: why do you choose to not have the chain brake on when starting? Does it put unnecessary stress on the clutch or is there another reason? I usually have it on so the chain is not spinning upon start up, but if it is somehow harming the saw I’ll leave it off and just be extra not dumb when I start it.
I do it because I am very used to starting chainsaws. I recommend leaving brake on for those less used to it.
@@donyboy73 Thanks, I appreciate the response. I’ll keep doing it as long as it is not doing any premature harm to the saw. 😎👍
True Master mechanic- knowing how to create the problem, then fixing! Always a pleasure.❤
German engineering. Make simple things overly complex and counterintuitve. Pathetic.
It’s a hangover from WW2, Hitler is haunting even 75 years after death…
@@BertGraefI think we can all see the "pathetic" on display here... 🙄
Thanks for sharing! Right out of the owners manual but who reads those, right.
MS-250. Hardest saw I ever had to start!!!
My old Home lite was a joy!
I tell older people not too buy it because they can’t pull it 😂
They are, I actually made a video on that, the ms250c with easy start is much easier to pull.
"easy start"? Oh boy! I need that.......@@donyboy73
The Stils are quite powerful saws. As a result, they have a lot of compression that you feel when pulling the rope. It takes some strength to pull it.
I am considering buying an MS 170 for home use. I have a heavily wooded lot and need to do a lot of cleanup and felling a couple of smaller trees.
I am looking for opinions on this saw.
I have two!
@@donyboy73 and how do you like them? What has your experience been?
@@anthony.nunya.bizness pretty good but the muffler often gets plugged but it's easy to clean.
@@donyboy73 thanks for the info!
I have an ms391 that I have had trouble restarting when hot after turning it off to refuel. I will check to see if I am doing something wrong. Also it has never put out enough bar oil since it was new even with the oil adjustment fully open. Ever heard of that?
A guy just brought me an ms 391 today that he couldn’t get started. Anything I should do different since it has the decompression button? Thanks
I have ms250 with easy start pull cord, primer bulb also. What is the correct way to start it. So far not sure if I like the easy start
Love this guy!.. the best chainsaw channel!..👍🤙🏽
Great explanation! I wish I'd seen this when I first started using a Stihl chainsaw - would helped a lot!
silly Stihl engineering.
I have the starting process pretty well committed to memory by now, but for a long while I would review the manual before I used the saw to make sure I had it right. Manual stays in the case w/the saw.
Back before fuel injection we used to "unflood" cars the same way - open the throttle and blow the gas out.
Same as Husqvarna without the safety on choke with the throttle needing to be depressed.
Thanks Donyboy. I've come over from Chickanic
Wow , Thanks for great instruction fo starting the Stihl saws !!
Coors Light??? I though you all had good beer in Canada. Maybe ask Steve for some suggestions.
LOL! Right on buddy...
Better than bush that beer is deer piss
Yes, Steve & Dony know their wrenching, Steve also knows his beer. Thanks to both of you for your channels!
stihl used to be my favorite saw, last one I bought was a pita to start so I gave it away. now I use a Husqvarna.
Yep... That's how it happens ! 😃👍
I suspect that is good advice for any pull start motor.
The tip is not only suitable for chainsaws but for all Stihl engines
I hate that switch. Never had a problem starting the saw but my thumb is always hitting the lever and shutting the saw off. It's another example of Stihl's over engineered for no purpose device. A simple toggle switch and separate choke linkage work just fine!
I start my ms180 the way you show. It never starts. I have to remove air cln cover, hold hand over air intake, pull till stutter, then it'll start and after a short warm up I repl cover and it runs fine with power. Thinking carb, or reed valve if it has one.
Hey Donny, I have one for you. I have a Stihl 021, that I have owned since new , over 30 years ago. For most of it's life, it doesn't matter if I haven't started it in a week, a month or since last year, I choke it and pull it either 8 or 9 times before it pops, then it starts right up after shutting the choke off. I did a carb kit once, but it still started the same way. Any guesses why?