Don't Let This Happen To Your Chainsaw!
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- In this video I show you some important maintenance that should be done to your chainsaw whether you have a Stihl, Husqvarna, Poulan or any saw for that matter.
And from what I have seen in my shop this maintenance is especially important if you have a Stihl MS291 or 391 chainsaw because if you don't do this it can end up costing you a lot of money to repair your saw!
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Here my friends thought I was going overboard cleaning my saw, bar, and the clutch/drum after every weekend I use them. I use them hard, too. This just proves I was correct in my practice. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"
Every use is probably excessive, but like myself, you probably enjoy doing it. It's really satisfying to clean up a grungy saw. It's also nice to pull out,a clean saw to use. Better too much maintenance than not enough.
What you are saying is maybe I should do this to my 40 year old mcculloch? I thought I cleaned it pretty good with a air hose. Never had any problems.
Great tip and reminder! Admittedly, I haven't done that since I got my saws running. I have stihl 460, 034, and 260 which I just bought new oil cap for per another video of yours. Thank you for your very informative videos. While I have figured out over the years much of the content, I refer to your knowledge and experience to dot i's and cross t's. Your "no BS" delivery approach keeps me coming back for more knowledge. Thanks and keep up the excellent work. TC
This stinks. I had no idea about this dony. I just put a brand new Zama carb on my ms250, and didn’t grease this roller bearing. Hopefully it’s not damaged. How often should this be done? Every 3 chains? Every 5th gas tank?
Another super helpful, money saving video from Dony! Wow….I never knew this could happen!!! This simple maintenance would prevent losing the entire saw. Thanks so much, Dony!
Another good reason not to over tighten your chain
Great advice. I was unaware that new saws had plastic clutch bearing cages. My saws are older and I used NGLI-2 lithium. I now use NGLI-2 shear stable polyurea. I replace clutch spurs as the chain wears into them causing pitch change compared to new replacement chains. But, bearings are original from back in mid 1970's.
I’ve never particularly had an interest in small engines before, I just did what I needed to on my own equipment when the time arose but after bingeing all your videos you make being a small engine mechanic look so cool. I’m always outside doing the maintenance tips you show
Great advice but one other thing that will cause this wear is over tightening the chain , if fact that can actually take your main crank bearing and seal out.
Cheers , former Stihl Canada Tech. Dept. employee.
Great point John, as will not releasing tension on the chain after saw has been shut down from a lot of cutting!
Ive been doing that on my saws going back to the 90s. They have always been plastic caged through at least 5 stihls. My saw mechanic pulled me aside, when i was having a saw sharpened and ahowed me how to break it down that far. He used to maintain a whole landscaping crews saws. General rule of thumb. Was hit it in the spring and fall. Then every 4 sharpening. About qhen you got it near the shop and swere usung the air compressor. To clean it up. Its probably every few cords of wood for me. Averaging 30 to40 cords a year. Ive never seen a clutch shaft wear loose.
The sales guy goes farther and recommends loosening the chain when you quit. So the chains not hot and pulling\bending the shaft. He says he has seen it. When he worked the repair side
Great tip Don, I have two older Stihls , curious to see if they have the metal roller cage. Eric.
My 025 has plastic!
some do
This is surprising.
In my experience, that bearing is totally still 99% of the time because it only spins when the saw is idling. When cutting, and the clutch is engaged, the bearing doesn't turn.
Nonetheless, I keep mine clean and lubed, but I'm thinking some of Dony's customers must 1) completely ignore basic cleaning and lube and 2) let their saws idle for long periods of time.
Exactly my thoughts.
Sorry but that is wrong, the bearing spinns the whole time when the saw is running. But the good thing is that you can buy those metal ones. I dont know if you in America can but we in Germany can.
Greetings
@@maxmustermann2841 Think once more.
At high RPMs, the crankshaft, clutch shoe assembly, and clutch housing all turn together as one. When the clutch is engaged that bearing is still.
When the the motor idles, the crankshaft continues to rotate (slowly) along with the shoes, but the clutch housing is still. Hence, the crankshaft spins inside the clutch housing. This is what the bearing is needed for.
LOL...though I do agree with you that the bearing "spins"; it's just spinning in a stationary state in concert with the crankshaft, shoes, and clutch drum. It's basically going along for the ride.
Maybe that's what you were referring to.
It’s like a automotive clutch throw out bearing
Thanks for another great video. You were the first and by far the best small engine repairman I subscribed to . Keep up the great work. 👍
Man, great advice. I’ll service my two saws the next time I’m at our farm.
Have a husky 51. It is 30 years old now. Never knew about this bearing maintenance till this year. I now do it and the bearing was still good. I do 20 cords or more a year. Great video for those who did not know. I think all of us really enjoy how you share your knowledge. Will be working Dec.29th up in your area
The old saying "They don't make them like they used to" is SO true. For just about everything.
How often is Thais recommend ? I just checked my 2017 261 of course bearing dry ... it had little play but after greasing was snug agin so I guess I’m good I prob don’t put more than 30h on since ...
used shell 22 greas it’s a air plain grease for like -60 to 240 c or so
This guy makes me go out to my garage and check this bearing and grease it lol
lol
Top stuff Donny mate cheers from Australia to Canada.
Actually, that plastic bearing cage is somewhat designed as a sacrificial component. Grease it every 50 hours/season and it will last almost forever . But as owners generally don't perform grease maintenance, a stronger metal bearing cage would rapidly grind down the crankshaft causing that saw to be srapped prematurely. As Donny said, changing the bearing cage makes economic sense, changing the crankshaft doesn't !
Daniel the MAN
@@georgedavall9449 Flattery will get you nowhere. LOL !
@@danielrobert7181 Ha Ha I appreciated your comment is all. I wont push it! LOL!
Great video man , dony do you have a ms200t for sale?
I'm a professional tree surgeon in the UK, I have both 291 and 391 they are great saws. I clean my fully after each day, even sometimes during the day if it's particularly dirty weather or I'm cutting a wind blow out of a river. Another great informative video for the uninitiated, thanks.
Gotta get pro grade saws last longer
@@ronaldbailey7365 I was going to say same; plus power-to-weight ratio is better for less fatigue and more productivity, plus the materials are stronger e.g. more magnesium, less plastic. Do a teardown or watch a youtube teardown of home-gamer vs. pro saws from Stihl. Night and day differences.
Also note that using the chain brake when idling with it on for anymore then needed will melt those plastic caged bearings, melt plastic case around the brake band, change the temper in your clutch springs also. I did a 2 part series on a ms171 that had this happen to, and have a couple ms170s on the shelf from customers who did the same thing. There are aftermarket options for steel caged clutch bearings also. I never use the stihl plastic caged ones anymore for those reasons
Plastic roller bearing cage for a plastic saw. Matches perfect. To me the 391 n 291 are turds anyway.
I'm a hard knuckle chainsaw guy ,but maintenance is always my first priority "AS WELL AS A SHARP CHAIN" my saw after years is better than new 😅!
U my number 0ne guy,keep up the good work mate
Hi Dony, greetings from Down Under. Thanks for the 291 advice. I have a fairly new one and will be checking the bearing from now on. I also have a Stihl 010 from the early ‘80’s. It is still going strong. I can’t help thinking they are not made as well now.
That's been on my mind about that bearing and you put my mind at ease cause I'm heading to the shop now. Much thanks and appreciate it. Nothing's cheap these days and any preventative maintenance is worth everything!! 👍😉
Well, I guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend! Thanks for another clear and complete video.
Thanks so much Dony, this will be my first job tomorrow morning lol. I had never thought about that bearing at all. Thanks for bringing it to our attention.
Cheers mate.
Cleaned the bearings and clutch housing today. Thanks Dony for the thumbs up.
Thank you for the maintenance tip Dony! I just checked the parts diagram for both my baby Poulan and my Chinese 038 clone (don't judge me...lol) and they both have this arrangement.
That's the 1st thing I did, too, on my 2 Poulans. You are right, there is no roller bearing. Guess that's one of the reasons that they sell for $130 vs $300 &up for Stihl & Husq.
@@jjparody8257 Yes. Instead of a nice roller bearing, the little Poulan has a bearing sleeve pressed into the clutch drum. 😒Disposable versus rebuildable. Even more reason for me to clean and lube it I imagine.
Is that just on the ms291 ms391 or do you have to grease the clutch drum bearing on all makes of chainsaws ? I also try to keep up with the maintenance on my and my dad's saws
Yeah, I'm about to check my 028 WB Stihl after this.
@@bdmenne that reminds me i need to do that to all my saws
yes all saws but the 291/391 crankshaft will wear if not done regularly
You could repair the crankshaft using a speed sleeve, e.g. SKF speedi sleeve, if you can find a suitable dimension. They are 11 thousands thick.
One of my saws is a 1984 038. Any idea when Stihl changed to plastic bearings? My other 2 saws are later vintage 015, I'm guessing the smaller saws are probably plastic bearings.
I clean and grease this bearing after each use of my MS462. Prior to installing the bearing, I fill the interior about half full of Stihl grease and cover the opposite end of the bearing with my finger. As the bearing slides are pressed over the crankshaft with my finger, the grease is forced from the interior through to the exterior surfaces of the bearing packing it. I then slide the clutch drum on , making sure that the slot in the drum engages the oil pump, and then complete the assembly. Less messy way to grease it. This is a good video. Thanks Don.
I just wrote, then cancelled a comment, after I scrolled down to see you said almost exactly what I said.
Another great tip Don I also warn about over tightening the chain which tends to Oval the drum and could do the same to the crank. Happy Holidays to you and yours!
I always slacken off the chains on my saws at the end of a Days work.
Omg, I didn't know about this service point, thanks! Hope my older MS260 has the better quality bearing. I think I would have noticed play, so I'm probably good. It'll get greased now.
I had a 261 fail in this way, the bearing let go and destroyed the clutch.....I pay close attention to this bearing now.
I looked at my MS260 today. Indeed it has a plastic sleeved bearing, so it looks like they’ve been using them for awhile, even on the pro level saws. No play or visible wear, but it was dry of any grease, and I couldn’t see any sign of grease ever being there. I suspect it might have been oiled only. I’m so glad I saw this video to catch this before I had issues. I used the red lithium all temperature bearing grease, which should work fine.
Thanks Dony, I have a MS180 and It was on my todo list but I didn't know about the plastic bearing, it's kind of ridiculous that to save 1$ a company would design something like that. It looks like a trend now to make short videos, not sure why but I like the concept.
Also on the ms194 to check under the recoil for pom prons it is common for them to be by the coil if you don't check you will get the cylinder hot same on the ms201tcm
Yes Sir,been doing this for years ms391 and old school 044.Running smooth with no problems.
Soft steel on a plastic bearing case almost surely made in Commieland. What could possibly go wrong on a chainsaw🥺. That’s more suitable for a baby stroller 💩
Sthils bearings are really shit. Changed way too many
Thank you for your professional advice Don. I better check out my couple of saws. Cheers from Perth WA 🦘🇦🇺
Thanks Don! Great tip! I want to wish you and your family a very Merry Christmas! Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and expertise!
Hey Don, I just did the bearing maintenance/cleaned and greased on my 290. While I had the clutch drum off I cleaned the inside surface where it contacts the clutch also with the carb cleaner an a terry towel. It had a build up on the edges that don’t contact the clutch. Got it back together feeling good about something I didn’t know.
Thanks
Matt
From Ohio 👍👍
290 is well and I love it I'm not looking forward to upgrading to a newer cheaper made song in the future that's for sure I'm going to make sure all 290 stays running strong FYI do the muffler mod thank me later LOL
I have seen this happening mostly in knock-off chainsaws, most of the time the bearing is in good condition but the crankshaft is worn down a lot where the bearing rides on even when the bearing was properly greased, i always assumed it was a mixture of poor materials and people running the chain too tight, but seeing this happening on a Stihl is very disappointing
Unfortunately Don this video came a little too late for me I’ve got a stihl 029 and I just took it apart to look at the bearing, the clutch drum is very wobbly on the crankshaft. The bearing was intact and fortunately it looks pretty snug on the crankshaft so it just looks like the clutch drum is worn out from a lack of grease. The sad part is every time I go into a stihl dealership and tell them which saw I have they can’t find it on the computer, if it wasn’t for the older guys working there they would have no clue what parts I need.
Possibly if Stihl ever cant find the parts try Banta saw in Ontario they have a warehouse full of old made in Canada 3rd party sprockets and bearings for OLD saws.
Thanks for another great video. Does the same advice apply to a 031 saw?
Try to get a piston and cylinder for a ms661 thay are on backorder I work on stihl every day
I am planning on getting me a 391 at some point. I hope they don’t stop making it anytime soon, but I’m glad I watched this video
manufacturers are building things to wear out unlike the past where they built things to last.
Thank you for sharing this valuable information. ❤️🇨🇦
I was taught by an old timer to flip my bar everytime I change the chain.
Great information Donny! Merry Christmas! 💥🎄
So was that one you showed, was it able to be greased with the tool or do you have to do it by hand? I have a MS 251
Good video mate.. hope your all keeping safe.. take her easy bud
I like the stihl design for the clutch, easy to clean up.
Cut wood for 50 years. Never knew about this bearing maintenance. Started out with a XL-123 Homelite, then a R55 Partner. I ended up converting both to a rim sprocket from a star sprocket. Bars back then were hard nos bars not sprocket nose bars. After cutting firewood for my dad and I I have now converted to wood pellets.I have a Harman PF-100 wood furnace. I must say that I actually enjoyed my time in the woods with my dad. He has passed on in July at 95 years old. Many memories, mostly good and some bad. I now own a Husqvarna 359, and an Echo CS-370 chain saws.
When I've done this, I notice a difference for the better in performance. But I used standard axel grease- not sure if that's the best option... Thanks for sharing this.
too bad they don't build stuff like they used too
Oh dear. Thank you for great tips! I happen to have a 390 (and 026 Super) and will check on these now.
Dads old saw says Made In West Germany. I'm afraid a west German greased it last
Only somebody who works on these saws knows the real deal on what wears out and how to prevent it...great tip ...👍
my buddies that work at stihl dealers noticed the same problem
The chain catcher on the saw in the video is also damaged and must be replaced. It's bent back at an angle that will make it fail to function in the event of a broken chain or a chain coming off the bar.
I like tihis chainsaw stihl
Thank u for the excellent advice
I'm curious to know if there's a way to weld material back on to the crankshaft in the low areas and then sand or smooth it out to be circular again. Not a problem I have yet, but something the welder in me wonders is possible.
I have a ms180 size and I maintain that area. I've 6 years and haven't had the need to replace any of it yet. Might be up for a new sprocket next year but if that's all I need in that time, it's worth the ounce of prevention
Have a 270 and 271, will check them this weekend, great tip thanks
too bad they didn't make a sleeve that could be press fitted over the crank shaft and then a bearing that fit the sleeve..... seems like there are probably thousands of saws out there with this issue....i bet there is some machinist out there who fixed their saw like this...now they just need a kit for the everyday saw user....thanks for the great videos Don
I’ve got a 391 so this information in greatly appreciated!! Awesome! Thank you Dony!!👍🔥
Well Dan and fellow viewers I need some advice I have a Sears d49 1966 chainsaw the bar measures 17 inches from front of motor to the round of the bar ( round up to 18") I do have the bar and chain but I think they're worn out I'd like to replace them with something that is the same to what's on the saw it has 58 Drive links and is 3/8 w/ groove of .058( i think is worn) which usually means it has a 16 inch bar but I think it's an 18 inch bar from what I've researched the saw runs beautifully I just think the bar and chain are worn out so I would like to replace it with something newer where can I purchase something to fit. Any help would be highly appreciated thank you
Thanks Dony.. Hope you and your family have a nice Christmas
I’m tearing mine apart to clean and lube tmw!
Glad I caught this video. I learned about the roller bearing when I first started running saw 15 years ago, but I, uh... forgot about it. And I just bought a used Echo. Sure enough, all my saws including the Echo had dry roller bearings BIG time. Much better now.
Great information thanks.👍🇨🇦
Great tip. I must check my one out
I have not greased it up to this point.
Good morning DB73, All good points I didn't know about. I need to take out my saws and check this out on mine. Thanks, Ol Budy. U - D - Best 👍
Great tip. I have a 291 & I'll make sure to do this maintenance regularly. 👍 Thanks
I never ever knew this and I try to look after my gear as best I can
Excellent! I have an MS 291 and did not know this, thank you. And the 291 has been a very reliable saw.
Thanks, Bearing was in need of more grease, but we’re good on wear. Great tips!
Thanks for the heads up. I have the same plastic cage roller bearing design on my MS250 that I purchased new last year. Just packed mine with low temp lithium grease, great tip thanks!
Great tips Don. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. You and your family have a Merry Christmas.
Everyone is having problems with bearings these days ,auto industry, Harley ,John Deer . I think everyone is using cheap off shore bearings . One time things went to the scrape yard with the original bearings that they came with new . Not any more
Muy buenas recomendaciones y voy a poner en practica tengo una SM660 SERÁ QUÉ SERÍA BUENO HACERLE ESE MANTENIMIENTO ??
DESDE COLOMBIA SUD AMÉRICA
Thank you for the great maintenance tip. I am new to the chain saw game. Have learned a lot from you. I have always taken care of my equipment, but this is another level which I am happy to start doing. Saving me money and having my machines run at their top potential is key!
Thanks again
Greasing the bearing is Easy Peasy maintenance. There's no good reason NOT to do it... 🤷🏼♂️
I can't imagine Baking my 462 or 661... I'd be shaving my wrists ! 🙀🙀
Servicing your saw after heavy use for next use or user is key . That’s what was taught at a chainsaw servicing and usage seminar the guys went to. Line up the clutch drum to your oiler lever also on those Stihls .And watch that you don’t flick the c clip across the room ( ask me how I know this) Clean , bar and chain maintenance and adjustments will make them last for near forever. 10 plus years so far lol
I noticed that you also have a bent chain catcher on that saw. That should be replaced.
it is made that way
That center hole in my 450 Husky seems to be blind. Can I get at it from behind, by removing the sprocket and breaking it down some more?
Great tip , And well presented Thank you !
Great video and good advice. I currently maintain and repair power equipment such as chainsaws and cut-off saws for the fire dpt and I saw something in this video that never occured to me before. At 2:33 you explain that the handheld grease tool (which I have that exact same one) can be used on the shaft to grease the bearing, and that not every saw has that.
Question: Do you have a short list of saws that do have that grease application feature on the shaft? My department primarily uses MS 460s, MS 660s, MS 661Cs, and MS 462Cs. I'm looking closely at an MS 660 that I have in my shop and it has that hole in the shaft. However, it doesn't seem like there's anywhere for the grease to go. I'm guessing the only purpose that hole serves on this saw is to keep a puller centered if you're messing with the main bearings for some reason.
Hope you're still making vids because I'll be watching them. Thanks.
Hi Don, Grease type: You recommended White Lithium grease for this. Meanwhile Canadian Tire's version of White Lithium is not recommended for high speed. Might theirs be the wrong kind? One commenter uses polyurea base for this. Can you please clarify and recommend the best brand to purchase. You've probably answered this elsewhere, but I can't find it. Thanks from a fellow Muskokan.
Thanks, good videos. Very helpful information. Do have anything on replacing chain brake on STIHL MS291 releasing the tension on the two springs tools best used to do so. Than put everything back together.
Hi there. We enjoy your videos and and instruction. Thank you.
Question: I saw a video recently about an aftermarket implement for my ms250.
It was a drilling attachment - the bar is removed and this attachment is bolted on.
This would allow me to easily drill one inch holes into the center of a 20 in. dia tree trunk, or so it seems.
What effect would that kind of use have on the saw?
Thanks in advance.
I'm shocked that Stihl is putting plastic cages on their roller bearings!
I would expect that from one of the Chinese look-alike saws! But not a Stihl!
What about the wristpin bearings?? Are they using plastic cages on them also?
If I had a 291 or 391, I'd replace that roller bearing with a good one! And avoid that issue to begin with!
Even though those saws are homeowners grade saws, that's just inexcusable!
Good video, however, does this apply to other Stihl chainsaws, e.g. MS250, etc. ?
A very broad question. A 260 used only a few days a year and occasionally had to work hard but mostly medium work ... Looked after and never abused... Yearly fuel used would not be more than 10 litres...... What would you say could be a life expectancy of this saw? Just a very broad question I know but I've often wondered over the years when might the time be to start thinking about a new one. Its been brilliant for years and its still brilliant today.
I have an MS 291, and we just took it apart. The bearing cage is indeed plastic. Does Stihl or anyone offer a steel caged roller bearing to fit? Will a Pro model roller bearing work? I know that there were fixes for this problem on automotive crankshafts where the oil seal would wear a groove in the crank. There is a ring that can be slid over the crank to cover the groove. I also have a MS 260Pro i bought in 2007. Will it have this problem as well? Thank you for your time and the video.
I’m not trying to be “that guy” but I’ve been in the bearing industry for 30+ years. This is actually called a needle bearing. Just saying (not trying to be that know-it-all who is only talking out his blowhole). As another gentleman pointed out the plastic cage is likely a performance enhancement as well as a cost reduction for the manufacturer.