I scored up my used 025 learning how to use a chainsaw in some big ash trees. Bought a new saw to work with and am now attempting an AM rebuild just to see if I can do it. Crank seals had a small leak when I pressure tested tearing it down which leaned it out.
I think it was straight gassed. And fuel was replaced later. Usually it won't score the whole face of the exhaust side like that. Maybe seeing how the intake side look by taking the carb off.
Thank you for the reminder to use a sharp chain; change it at t he first sign of dullness/damage. I had a similar problem with a MS 290. There is a baffle in the muffler that broke off and got sucked into the cylinder. The revving piston sheared off a part of the baffle that was loose in the exhaust port. The saw came to a sudden stop and would not turn over on the starter pull rope. Taking off the muffler and dumping out the sheared metal solved the problem. I was fortunate, there was only slight piston scoring and no other damage. Moral of the story: if you hear a rattle in the muffler. remove it and take the loose baffle out before it does real damage. Thanks again for this and all your other videos.
I pull a lot of mufflers on 2-stroke equipment. It is amazing how some shops don't check the piston, rings, and cylinder. Low compression with sometimes mimic a bad/dirty carburetor. Thanks Don.
I have a Stihl MS 260 and MS 390 both with offshore top ends. I've been running these saws for 7 years with no issues. Both run and cut strong. I wouldn't hesitate putting an offshore top end on that saw. Yes keeping a sharp chain and a clean saw is a must for any saw to have a long life.
I just priced a cylinder kit for new version at Stihl dealer 230.00 for cylinder piston kit. Update. I got the cylinder cleaned up and did a little porting and bought a pop up piston. 35 dollars in piston/rings.
I’ve been there, replacing the whole fuel system to have it still hard starting and no idle. Pulling the muffler is what I now do before anything else when I get a piece of 2 stroke equipment with starting or running issues. It’s saved me many hours and dollars. Sometimes you can clean up the piston and cylinder, free up or install new rings and you are good to go. Depends on the severity of the scoring. Another great video, thanks Don!
I have the same saw, and mine is a bear to start as well. But if I pull it slowly three or four times . . . about 8 inches or so each time, it makes it much easier when I actually pull it hard to start it. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. I do think I'll remove the muffler and take a look . . . just to see what I've got. I think it should be okay. Thanks for another great video!
Great video. I have a Stihl 261C I was worried I had overheated using a chain which got dull on wood I was cutting that had been lying in the dirt. I pulled the muffler as you suggested and found no damage to the piston. Thanks for this valuable information.
I recently changed the piston and cylinders on both of our Huskvarna 460 rancher saws and it cost around 120 in parts per saw. It was well worth it. I also have a Stihl cut off saw that needs the same but I can’t find OEM parts for it. I’m a little disappointed in Stihl for not keeping parts available.
I am a STIHL dealer. I can tell you that the OEM parts to rebuild this saw are in the vicinity of $400 not including labor. Probably more now, I have not priced recently. The only way you could do this for $120 is by using an aftermarket head and piston assembly. There are two major problems with that concerning this chainsaw model though. 1. After market cylinders are of very low quality metals typically and last for a few runs 2. I have yet to see an after head and piston assembly for this saw. They are just not available yet. Anything can be repaired, however this saw is done from a financial perspective.
@@brockraybon , I don’t have their chain saw. I have an older cut off saw. I know I can get after market parts for it but Im not going to waste my time using them. My point was that I had no problem getting , reasonably priced , oem , parts for my husk saws but couldn’t do the same for the Stihl.
I have an ms260 on my bench right now that they had put a really cheap aftermarket top end on, and it only has 100psi compression... It will start, idle and cut but will bog down in the wood with minimal pressure because of the low compression. A perfect example of why one needs to get a decent top end if you want good results you don't want to chase your tail with.
As a small engine mechanic that works for a stihl dealer, we see these all the time, rings welded to the piston, will run just like this but die at idle, just remember that what customers tell you 90% of the time is a lie, its easy to change that fuel out to good fuel when taking it to a shop, and the fact that a dull blade like this would not have heated that engine to that point, at least in my experience, i have never in 20 yrs seen a dull blade do that to an engine. Just my 2¢, take care
WOW ...😳 Really Surprising Diagnostic ! That's an eye opener, and likely to save a lot of Time, Money, and Headaches coming straight out of the gate. Very good to know... 😉👍 Thanks !!! 😃 If your guys Bodger a lot of chains and bars I guess you know what to watch out for in short order... 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
Its amazing to me in such a short time ive gone from all Stihl Gass to Ego Battery power for my homeowner OPE. I dont deal with any of the headaches that i used to have to deal with
Electric has its place i prefer gas especially when I'm cutting firewood all day but all my around the house cutting and trimming I go for my Electric saw everytime
low oil ratio I believe is the biggest factor here. The recommended oil ratios just leave no room for error in cutting practices, too easy to get the saw overheated. I have milled wood and cut truckloads of firewood with never a problem and yes there were very hot days and dull chains in big and hard wood. It is not the way to cut but with low oil you will quickly find the break point of your saw.
I agree. The guy let his buddy borrow the saw which means he probably doesn't know how to use it or mix the oil. Watch some videos of fools showing how to mix the fuel and it's darn right scarry. Not accurate at all of how much gas they have or how much oil they add. Also I never put gas in 2 stroke can with intent to add oil later. I believe it was no or little oil,, not dull chain. Very light blue for 40-1.
I think it’s worth fixing. You can buy a Nicosil coated cylinder/piston kit aftermarket at a reasonable price. If you’re going to fix it yourself. Like Don said, if you buy OEM Stihl parts it’s likely cheaper to just get a new saw at that point. Great video Don!
NOPE, there's no aftermarket cylinders for these saws!! Even Used ones are almost $300......Not worth it.....It's been a huge problem, that's why I'm selling my saw.
Meteor, Hyway, are quality top end kits with Nickasil coatings. Definitely some older Stihl saws that I would rebuild for $150 rather than buy a new saw.
My brand new stihl ms 250 for me is hard to pull. The dealer used stihl mix and when I tried starting it, it flooded, so I removed the spark plug, pulled it a few times and dried off the plug. It started. A few days later it did it again, so i did the process again and it started. I let it run for awhile and shut it off. Next day after pulling it in the run position first it started. Now using a gas mixture it starts after I choke it and runs like it should. First cut felling a small cedar tree, it cut good but when I went to cut them into pieces, it was like the chain brake was on. So I got out the tool and took the chain off and looked at the bar,it looked fine. Put it back together left the chain loose and kept checking, not to make the chain too tight and it seems okay. I wonder whether the dealer put the chain on the sprocket correctly. Otherwise as I let the chainsaw go back to idle after running it not quite open the chain stopped on a dime. It's almost like the chain got tighter while running it and it uses bar oil just fine.
I did a top end rebuild om my dad's two Stihl MS 391 saws that had a run in with som bad pre-mixed gas one was brand new! I had never attempted this before, but I got them both up and running as good as or possibly slightly better than original condition.. We didn't stop to thing there could be an issue with the pre-mix gas before the second and brand saw gave up the ghost after 10-15 minutes of use.. ha was using the saw(s) in a saw mill so we just thought he had overworked the saw.. Now I perfectly understand why Don and others that run a business that have to offer a guarantee or warranty on their work and parts, but for a home/hobby mechanic it is possible to find piston/cylinder kits that work.. cylinders
I have a leaf blower with similar symptoms. I checked the exhaust port and it appeared scored. What would cause this problem? Thanks for all of your knowledge.
I have seen where guys don’t put in mix, blow up a saw, and after realizing it switch it back over to mixed fuel to hide the whoopsie. Either way, heartbreaking.
Is it possible that the saw sat for certain time and, the oil and gas got separated ? I have the exact same saw. It's about 3 years old and it sat for about 2 years before I used it ( I used 3 tanks up to now). It has way more compression than the one presented on the video.
You could see the current gas and you could see the state of shapness of cutters; but I maybe the key word you used was "bite". Some people forget to lower the rakers when they sharpen a few times. Even with less expensive after market cylinder and piston; a refurbish would be risky due to the heat exposure this engine experienced. Heat like that is hard on ignition module, seals, and the crank bearings and crank journal.
That gas looked thin to me when you put it in the container. It looks like the owner was sloppy mixing his gas and just poured a bottle in a gallon of gas without actually measuring it. He could have poured out the thin gas and refilled it with a thicker mixture but left a lot of thin gas in the tank. The gas just did not look thick enough to me, just enough color to make it appear it was mixed properly. To smoke a piston down that much it was run on thin gas at high rpm’s, probably with a dull chain, too.
i have a ECHO CS 450,it's very hard to start, when i pull starter cord , it' ll only come out about 4" every now and then i can get t to start and will run perfect idle good accelerate fine , no bogging down saw has only about 10 hrs run time , i replaced starter assy , no help. any ideas?
What about Stihl chainsaws like the MS 462 C where they tell you to let it idle so it can adjust itself tuning to the atmosphere? Isn’t that a no load situation.
@@donyboy73 True, I'm so glad we have you. I've used 2 Stroke equipment all my life but I'm new to chainsaws. I've never had the need for one until my wife and I bought a home with a nice chunk of property. I'm super happy that if any questions or concerns arise I can go to your channel and watch or ask you questions and you answer back. I bought my first ever saw and because of you and your videos it's still running like the the day I bought it. When the chain needs sharpend I just buy a new one because I'm not good at sharping chains. Also It has never seen a drop of ethanol, I use non ethanol in all my outdoor equipment. Thank you Donyboy for all your helpful videos and sorry for writing a huge comment
Na it was straight gas’s that was run through it, you just tell the customer it was the chain that way they don’t have to lie to you anymore than they did already.
Could it have been mixed, sure, was it 32:1, 40:1,50:1 who knows, I always starts with an empty can add exactly I gallon of gas then dump in the pre measured stihl oil for 1 gallon then put a little gas in the bottle and shake it and dump that in with the gas, got to get every drop, maybe not. Then shake the entire gas can to mix, I’m told once you mix the gas and oil it will not separate unless you distill the gas, but I always give the can a good shake before filling anything. You could always buy premixed stihl fuel then you know what you’re getting. Oh it’s like $42 for a 1/2 gallon, it’s ethanol free so would last for years but heck that’s expensive, just the price of that is worth the risk of mixing it yourself just a few gallons of that and you could just buy a new saw!!! Or perhaps a few gallons of that and you won’t need a new saw, idk
NOT worth fixing, Nobody makes aftermarket cylinders for these saws!!!!...it's been an issue since day one, I'm probably selling mine because of this....and all the OEM cylinders are Over $250 used.....this is why I like the oldschool "0" series Stihls, tons of aftermarket for cheap.
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I learned 2 things. 1. Bad running isn't always a fuel system issue. 2. A dull chain can cook your engine. Thanks for another great video.
Scary FACT ! 🙀🙀
I scored up my used 025 learning how to use a chainsaw in some big ash trees. Bought a new saw to work with and am now attempting an AM rebuild just to see if I can do it. Crank seals had a small leak when I pressure tested tearing it down which leaned it out.
That's why you don't loan out your saw. Especially to a rookie. Kudos to Donyboy. He pulls the rope 9 inches and says "Something doesn't feel right".
Dony, its amazing how people treat their equipment!
I think it was straight gassed. And fuel was replaced later. Usually it won't score the whole face of the exhaust side like that. Maybe seeing how the intake side look by taking the carb off.
Thank you for the reminder to use a sharp chain; change it at t he first sign of dullness/damage. I had a similar problem with a MS 290. There is a baffle in the muffler that broke off and got sucked into the cylinder. The revving piston sheared off a part of the baffle that was loose in the exhaust port. The saw came to a sudden stop and would not turn over on the starter pull rope. Taking off the muffler and dumping out the sheared metal solved the problem. I was fortunate, there was only slight piston scoring and no other damage. Moral of the story: if you hear a rattle in the muffler. remove it and take the loose baffle out before it does real damage.
Thanks again for this and all your other videos.
Sir, I work with small engines frequently and have learned a lot from your videos! Thanks for the great information!
Dony,
Another great video explanation. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video.
I pull a lot of mufflers on 2-stroke equipment. It is amazing how some shops don't check the piston, rings, and cylinder. Low compression with sometimes mimic a bad/dirty carburetor. Thanks Don.
I have a Stihl MS 260 and MS 390 both with offshore top ends. I've been running these saws for 7 years with no issues. Both run and cut strong. I wouldn't hesitate putting an offshore top end on that saw. Yes keeping a sharp chain and a clean saw is a must for any saw to have a long life.
I just priced a cylinder kit for new version at Stihl dealer 230.00 for cylinder piston kit. Update. I got the cylinder cleaned up and did a little porting and bought a pop up piston. 35 dollars in piston/rings.
I’ve been there, replacing the whole fuel system to have it still hard starting and no idle. Pulling the muffler is what I now do before anything else when I get a piece of 2 stroke equipment with starting or running issues. It’s saved me many hours and dollars. Sometimes you can clean up the piston and cylinder, free up or install new rings and you are good to go. Depends on the severity of the scoring. Another great video, thanks Don!
Yes it is I’ve done two !!
I have the same saw, and mine is a bear to start as well. But if I pull it slowly three or four times . . . about 8 inches or so each time, it makes it much easier when I actually pull it hard to start it. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. I do think I'll remove the muffler and take a look . . . just to see what I've got. I think it should be okay. Thanks for another great video!
Great video. I have a Stihl 261C I was worried I had overheated using a chain which got dull on wood I was cutting that had been lying in the dirt. I pulled the muffler as you suggested and found no damage to the piston. Thanks for this valuable information.
If MS291 isn't worth to fix then MS261c sure is worth to fix even with original parts!
I recently changed the piston and cylinders on both of our Huskvarna 460 rancher saws and it cost around 120 in parts per saw. It was well worth it.
I also have a Stihl cut off saw that needs the same but I can’t find OEM parts for it.
I’m a little disappointed in Stihl for not keeping parts available.
500$ for a new one or 120$ to fix a beat up 291!!I'm with you Brother!!!
I am a STIHL dealer. I can tell you that the OEM parts to rebuild this saw are in the vicinity of $400 not including labor. Probably more now, I have not priced recently.
The only way you could do this for $120 is by using an aftermarket head and piston assembly.
There are two major problems with that concerning this chainsaw model though.
1. After market cylinders are of very low quality metals typically and last for a few runs
2. I have yet to see an after head and piston assembly for this saw. They are just not available yet.
Anything can be repaired, however this saw is done from a financial perspective.
@@brockraybon , I don’t have their chain saw. I have an older cut off saw.
I know I can get after market parts for it but Im not going to waste my time using them.
My point was that I had no problem getting , reasonably priced , oem , parts for my husk saws but couldn’t do the same for the Stihl.
I have an ms260 on my bench right now that they had put a really cheap aftermarket top end on, and it only has 100psi compression... It will start, idle and cut but will bog down in the wood with minimal pressure because of the low compression. A perfect example of why one needs to get a decent top end if you want good results you don't want to chase your tail with.
do you know how much compression should have a saw like you (me, I have the ms250...
As a small engine mechanic that works for a stihl dealer, we see these all the time, rings welded to the piston, will run just like this but die at idle, just remember that what customers tell you 90% of the time is a lie, its easy to change that fuel out to good fuel when taking it to a shop, and the fact that a dull blade like this would not have heated that engine to that point, at least in my experience, i have never in 20 yrs seen a dull blade do that to an engine. Just my 2¢, take care
So 9 out of every Ten customers are liar's? Good to know.
Yep.
"It was already like that".
You said it!!! Valuable shop time !! It's hard to get enough time as it is. Get video.
Another great video Dony, my friend. Thank you for taking the time to post it. I will definitely remember this. God bless you. John.
Another excellent and clearly explained video. I don't do a lot of 2-stroke work, but now I know an important first step when diagnosing. Thanks Dony!
Hey Dony. Good video. I learn something every time I watch your videos. Thanks for sharing.👍👍🍁
Excellent teaching and analysis, as always!👍
Stihl is famous for crankseal issues. Could be that one too. I think over 50cc stihls are always worth repair.
$30 for a new piston and cylinder for a 390, turning it into a 64CC saw
WOW ...😳 Really Surprising Diagnostic ! That's an eye opener, and likely to save a lot of Time, Money, and Headaches coming straight out of the gate. Very good to know... 😉👍 Thanks !!! 😃
If your guys Bodger a lot of chains and bars I guess you know what to watch out for in short order... 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
Its amazing to me in such a short time ive gone from all Stihl Gass to Ego Battery power for my homeowner OPE. I dont deal with any of the headaches that i used to have to deal with
Electric has its place i prefer gas especially when I'm cutting firewood all day but all my around the house cutting and trimming I go for my Electric saw everytime
Three things you never let people barrow. Your chainsaw your heavy equipment and your wife.
I've heard not letting one warm up after a cold start can do this.
Hey Dony. Your videos are invaluable. Thanks
low oil ratio I believe is the biggest factor here. The recommended oil ratios just leave no room for error in cutting practices, too easy to get the saw overheated. I have milled wood and cut truckloads of firewood with never a problem and yes there were very hot days and dull chains in big and hard wood. It is not the way to cut but with low oil you will quickly find the break point of your saw.
The fuel looks like it’s mixed low on oil. It is very light in color.
I agree. The guy let his buddy borrow the saw which means he probably doesn't know how to use it or mix the oil. Watch some videos of fools showing how to mix the fuel and it's darn right scarry. Not accurate at all of how much gas they have or how much oil they add. Also I never put gas in 2 stroke can with intent to add oil later. I believe it was no or little oil,, not dull chain. Very light blue for 40-1.
@@jefffrayer8238 this is why we never loan out a chainsaw.
If you need to borrow my saw, I come attached to handle.
Wow. Surprised that thing runs at all!
Same thing I thought after seeing how bad the piston was.
I think it’s worth fixing. You can buy a Nicosil coated cylinder/piston kit aftermarket at a reasonable price. If you’re going to fix it yourself. Like Don said, if you buy OEM Stihl parts it’s likely cheaper to just get a new saw at that point. Great video Don!
NOPE, there's no aftermarket cylinders for these saws!! Even Used ones are almost $300......Not worth it.....It's been a huge problem, that's why I'm selling my saw.
Even if you get it running, these chinese parts last only a year. I have 291, it's not worth it.
Wow, I'm surprized it runs!
Meteor, Hyway, are quality top end kits with Nickasil coatings. Definitely some older Stihl saws that I would rebuild for $150 rather than buy a new saw.
Very good help all ways.Thanks
My brand new stihl ms 250 for me is hard to pull. The dealer used stihl mix and when I tried starting it, it flooded, so I removed the spark plug, pulled it a few times and dried off the plug. It started. A few days later it did it again, so i did the process again and it started. I let it run for awhile and shut it off. Next day after pulling it in the run position first it started. Now using a gas mixture it starts after I choke it and runs like it should. First cut felling a small cedar tree, it cut good but when I went to cut them into pieces, it was like the chain brake was on. So I got out the tool and took the chain off and looked at the bar,it looked fine. Put it back together left the chain loose and kept checking, not to make the chain too tight and it seems okay. I wonder whether the dealer put the chain on the sprocket correctly. Otherwise as I let the chainsaw go back to idle after running it not quite open the chain stopped on a dime. It's almost like the chain got tighter while running it and it uses bar oil just fine.
Great info as always Thanks
I did a top end rebuild om my dad's two Stihl MS 391 saws that had a run in with som bad pre-mixed gas one was brand new!
I had never attempted this before, but I got them both up and running as good as or possibly slightly better than original condition.. We didn't stop to thing there could be an issue with the pre-mix gas before the second and brand saw gave up the ghost after 10-15 minutes of use.. ha was using the saw(s) in a saw mill so we just thought he had overworked the saw..
Now I perfectly understand why Don and others that run a business that have to offer a guarantee or warranty on their work and parts, but for a home/hobby mechanic it is possible to find piston/cylinder kits that work..
cylinders
Thanks, great T/S-ing. Good advice. Always a pleasure...
Another video full of GREAT information. Thanks
Cheaper to rebuild it than buying a new one at twice the cost of replacing one
great info Don thanks.
I have a leaf blower with similar symptoms. I checked the exhaust port and it appeared scored. What would cause this problem? Thanks for all of your knowledge.
Thanks for clarification on DIYers, not worth the money to mess with pistons
I usually wait until I get a scrapped saw with a good jug to make one out of 2!
How can you see by exhaust removal if piston is scored on the opposite side only ? 🤔
I have seen where guys don’t put in mix, blow up a saw, and after realizing it switch it back over to mixed fuel to hide the whoopsie.
Either way, heartbreaking.
Keep it as a loaner saw.
Is it possible that the saw sat for certain time and, the oil and gas got separated ? I have the exact same saw. It's about 3 years old and it sat for about 2 years before I used it ( I used 3 tanks up to now). It has way more compression than the one presented on the video.
good video, thank you
Thanks Don. Well explained.
You could see the current gas and you could see the state of shapness of cutters; but I maybe the key word you used was "bite". Some people forget to lower the rakers when they sharpen a few times. Even with less expensive after market cylinder and piston; a refurbish would be risky due to the heat exposure this engine experienced. Heat like that is hard on ignition module, seals, and the crank bearings and crank journal.
Good vid DB!
Thought at first. Straight fuel but overheating makes good sense😢
Buen día.veo todos tus videos.felicitaciones.estaria increíble que los traduscas al español
That gas looked thin to me when you put it in the container. It looks like the owner was sloppy mixing his gas and just poured a bottle in a gallon of gas without actually measuring it. He could have poured out the thin gas and refilled it with a thicker mixture but left a lot of thin gas in the tank. The gas just did not look thick enough to me, just enough color to make it appear it was mixed properly. To smoke a piston down that much it was run on thin gas at high rpm’s, probably with a dull chain, too.
Hey Don! Maybe I can scavenge some parts off this saw for a repair I want to do on mine!
Hi Dony just listening to the engine did not sound right. And as you always say remove the muffler and look at the piston and cylinder right call.
Aw crap, my guess was to adjust the carb idling screw 😀😀😀😀
i have a ECHO CS 450,it's very hard to start, when i pull starter cord , it' ll only come out about 4" every now and then i can get t to start and will run perfect idle good accelerate fine , no bogging down saw has only about 10 hrs run time , i replaced starter assy , no help. any ideas?
What about Stihl chainsaws like the MS 462 C where they tell you to let it idle so it can adjust itself tuning to the atmosphere? Isn’t that a no load situation.
Idle is ok
One Question ! Why is the BAR Up side down on the Saw
Every so often you need to flip it for even wear on the bar. Do it when you sharpen the chain.
Very informing video.👍
Good to know.👍
I really wish there were a way to start a stihl with a drill. Sure would save an old man's arms and wrist. (And heart.)
hey Don it also could be that the idol adjuster screws possibly need to bit of adjustment 😀😀
What about sanding it like Dave did with his Husky. He brought that saw back to near perfect condition? It that piston scored to bad?
It would still have low compression afterwards
@@donyboy73 True, I'm so glad we have you. I've used 2 Stroke equipment all my life but I'm new to chainsaws. I've never had the need for one until my wife and I bought a home with a nice chunk of property. I'm super happy that if any questions or concerns arise I can go to your channel and watch or ask you questions and you answer back. I bought my first ever saw and because of you and your videos it's still running like the the day I bought it. When the chain needs sharpend I just buy a new one because I'm not good at sharping chains. Also It has never seen a drop of ethanol, I use non ethanol in all my outdoor equipment. Thank you Donyboy for all your helpful videos and sorry for writing a huge comment
@@donyboy73 Wouldn't the cylinder wall also be "shot"?
@@2pugman yes
Cannot believe it even started with that p/c that bad
Don’t lend out any equipment!! It always comes back wrecked!
Hey Donyboy73
Another one bites the dust
Wow that looks bad always makes me think I don't know what I'm doing
👍👍👍👍👍
It’s deffo worth fixing I think
Nope! No aftermarket cylinders for these saws.....unless you wanna dump $300, it's basically a parts saw....this is why I won't buy these saws.
@@94SexyStang I found one online for £90 I’m UK
@@94SexyStang I found one online for £90 I’m UK
@@dexietyy7922 260 bucks for oem. Piston and cylinder.
1st like
When you pull to start it was obvious that something is wrong.
Na it was straight gas’s that was run through it, you just tell the customer it was the chain that way they don’t have to lie to you anymore than they did already.
Could it have been mixed, sure, was it 32:1, 40:1,50:1 who knows, I always starts with an empty can add exactly I gallon of gas then dump in the pre measured stihl oil for 1 gallon then put a little gas in the bottle and shake it and dump that in with the gas, got to get every drop, maybe not. Then shake the entire gas can to mix, I’m told once you mix the gas and oil it will not separate unless you distill the gas, but I always give the can a good shake before filling anything. You could always buy premixed stihl fuel then you know what you’re getting. Oh it’s like $42 for a 1/2 gallon, it’s ethanol free so would last for years but heck that’s expensive, just the price of that is worth the risk of mixing it yourself just a few gallons of that and you could just buy a new saw!!! Or perhaps a few gallons of that and you won’t need a new saw, idk
First thing to do is - never, ever lend your tools to anyone...
Wow. Running a dull chain trashed the saw. What a waste.
Never lend your saws out. There to expensive for someone not to treat right.
Its just not worth wasting time on. Trying to charge the customer for diagnosing is another issue.
NOT worth fixing, Nobody makes aftermarket cylinders for these saws!!!!...it's been an issue since day one, I'm probably selling mine because of this....and all the OEM cylinders are Over $250 used.....this is why I like the oldschool "0" series Stihls, tons of aftermarket for cheap.
It looks straight gassed to me.
Never loan out your chainsaw or your wife.
Ruined my day.
That's why I don't loan out equipment
Are the cheap ebay Chinese pot and pan worth buying or as good quality or good as original stihl parts ???
First thing to do is - never, ever lend your tools to anyone...