Hello to all our great Subscribers! We wanted to give you a gift as it is that time of the year you know :) This is one of our best vehicle hacks and it works so good you won't believe it. As we say why not do a little extra so you never have to worry or replace parts on your car, truck or semi! ***2 Quotes of the Week: Do what you feel in your heart to be right - for you'll be criticized anyway. #2 A single conversation across the table with a wise man is better than ten years of mere study of books.***
I like the quotes very much. Young ones come up with their own point of view & collectively , their individuality is "taught " out of them in a few short years of the public 'fool's system. Enjoy; ruclips.net/video/07NSy3J-wbM/видео.html
Back in the 80's. I started out working in a shop doing oil changes. Eventually, moving up to brakes, exhaust, transmission, etc. We used to lube ALL of the suspension bushings. I've noticed recently. If you get an oil change and lube, today. THESE specific items are neglected!!! Mechanics today don't use anti seize on brake caliper bolts!!! Attention to detail has died!!!
I would hardly need anti seize if they didnt fcking impact the bolts back on. Jfc just use a bit driver to snug it up and just use like a 16 or 24" torque wrench at like 80 or 100. Me and buddy tried to help a friend break the nuts loose on her focus and neither of us could get them to budge. Used pb blaster, pipe on the bar, buddy tried jumping on it, everything except a torch now that I think about it. The shop snapped the studs getting em off 😑
At over $100 an hour, here in Australia, you wouldn't want them paying too much attention to detail, although they are good at adding that extra time (attention to detail) to your bill, even when they clearly haven't done it, I have caught them out many times.
Well y'all would love to hate me, I'm 34 so not an old timer yet either. When I do a break job I descale the whole caliper bracket, the bolts, the slide bolts, if they're F'd I replace them, and continue to descale any other mating surface. The clips are greased on both sides, pad's ears get touched, the mating surfaces between the caliper and the pads, the slide bolts but clearly not the threads, I'll force you to get your rotors turned or replaced if they're shite, I replace rubber lines when they're shite, I'll make up new brake line when needed, I only use copper-nickel brake line, I will apply anti seize to threads, I will also charge you no less than $100 per wheel well for labor alone. Depending on the vehicle & If you're willing to pay, I'll recondition your calipers too. I don't do hourly, I'll bid you out like a job & if you don't like it tell you to go to someone who does it like it's work as opposed to something they care to take Pride in. I own my own tools for whatever task I take on from mechanical to construction trades. I make pretty good money & mostly I would say it's because I take pride in my work. I would certainly advocate that you get what you pay for. Want a 15 minute pad change? I wouldn't, but I Can do that too.. When you go to a shop with overhead and employees, they want turnover. Think about what your money pays for when You're paying. I bring my tools to the job. When you pay me, it's the growth of my personal business, bills, and kids that benefit directly. When you pay a large shop, there's a lot of overhead.
Been using syringe to grease the joints on my Ranger for over 20 years, since there are no zerk fittings from the factory. Seems I gotta do it twice a year because the joints start squeaking so loudly. Only problem is the outer rubber is starting to show it's age and cracking...might have to actually replace them someday. But with only 331K miles, they can't be worn out yet...
@@SweetProjectCars Hey SPC, should add that to a video sometime. I bought 303 because of you and you keep it real. definitely need a video on what to hit with the 303 yknow?
I like this syringe presentation and will try it to injects lubricant on the inside. For the outside of the joint, the best I can suggest is to brush apply a little transmission seal protector that uses a polymer to recondition seals. To fix a squeak on a 2003 GMC Envoy, I used Lucas Transmission Fix and alternately 303 Aerospace Protectant it for 5 + years now. The Lucas is as thick as grease; the 303 is thin but it works well too. Rationale is that plastic polymers chemically meld into the rubber to keep them young. Am happy with the solution.
I had a really bad creaking/squeaking sound when turning and when going over bumps in my 99 Accord. I did this to the upper and lower ball joints and it worked! Thank you!
That's actually great way to expand joint lifespan, the only thing I would like to highlight - do not use the best possible oil/grease, but pick the one suitable for the materials the joint is build. Mostly this black rubber is NBR or SBR which are not resistant to synthetic oils that mostly you'll find in wd40 or any other lube oil. Instead there are special ptfe white greases that do not destroy the rubber.
It's this amzn.to/3p9g2u6 and just a reminder, all of the products/tools we use in our videos can always be found in the ...MORE of the videos description, see here 3c5.com/4u6dj if you can't find it let us know and we will help you. Thanks for watching. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Through trial and error I learned that the recommended syringes work well with WD-40 White Lithium grease spray. Using the straw, spray a decent amount into medium to large ziplock baggie and allow to settle. After foam turns into liquid mix it around a bit, cut small corner and push liquid out into back of syringe. Boom. The spray grease works really great too
When I started doing this on my w123 Mercedes I used a pink needle (the largest inner diameter) and a 10 ml syringe. This was big enough to suck upp weapon grease (jelly like) and fill upp the joint. You don't need to worry about the needle hole...just repeat procedure at least every second year. This has worked fine for me. 😎 I got this idea about 15 years ago since I worked in health care
What in Tardation? The grease he's using is WD40 tier because he probably doesnt know large gauge needles exist. Its not grease and if it where grease its the wrong kind. Even the proper grease lowers wear and tear but doesnt eliminate it. On a factory ball joint the tolerances are so tight the grease doesnt enter that equation until you got some miles on it to increase the life of the ball joint with tighter tolerance. Usually things like this fail way after the boot does and imo thats where you start fighting a losing battle with a grease gun and a fitting to see how long you can keep your original ball joint. I'll keep the tip in the back of my pocket of "this is how you can rig a grease fitting without 1" but they where eliminated in sound mind and I will probably just go with the conventional method of Driving ball joints to death and simply replacing them. As its not a situation of lack of lube or dirt invasion or rust that really kills them. Its more old, age with improvements in metallurgy. Im getting a boat ton of miles off my ball joints watching them rot.
It might be useful to also rub some glycerin or polypropylene glycol on the outside of the rubber boot to keep it supple and prevent cracks. Good inside and outside.
I recently quieted the first ball joint squeaks on factory ball joints with no zirc fittings by chucking a ball inflation needle in my grease gun. Worked great and it's whatever heavy grease you like. Didn't do the silicone hole seal but the grease is thick enough to stay in there for a while.
"chucking a ball inflation needle in my grease gun" ... It just screwed on the grease gun end (with the hose off)? And, no problems getting to all areas regarding the room? Or, it went on the hose end? My situation is that I have not got under the car yet and checked for play. I may do that soon because I have to fix a fog light housing (but I am trying to decide what new LEDs to buy before I do that. No sense getting under there twice.) This can be a temporary fix for the noise if anything is worn. EDIT Oh, and it managed to poke through the rubber? If so, I guess you used Permatex, also? TY for the post. :-) EDIT I just looked for a grease gun to buy. I guess you _had_ to use the hose? EDIT Wow, bunch of edits. There are grease gun needles available.
@@SweetProjectCars Hey. :-) I have no clunking so I guess it is a ball joint, (squeaking). I can push down on the suspension and no squeaking of any kind. If I am lucky there will be nothing that needs to be replaced. (122,300 miles.) TY for the video.
I help a friend of mine during haying season on his cattle operation. Lots of tractors and hay balers going. When we take a break under a shade tree he goes around feeling driveline U-joints and bearings. Hot ones get a long shot of wheel bearing grease with a syringe on the grease gun stuck into the Neoprene seal of the of the beaings and the Zerks or U-joints. We never get a failure that way. Offending parts that overheat more than once go on a list for replacement in the off season.
I only do this if the joint doesn't have a grease zerk. Grease is still the better option when available and regrease annually keeping rubber boots clean then spraying with a rubber treatment to keep them like new. If there is no grease zerk this absolutely works to help keeps those joints going.
We do this once, then all regular greasing (preventative maintenance) as usual. Thank you for watching and sharing, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Nice, but why do you use a super thin spray lubricant instead of a bearing grease? Is it because of the thickness and not cooperating with the syringe? If so, possibly mix 50/50 think lubricant with bearing grease to make it thin enough to suck into the syringe.
OK, this is sounds cool, I'll give it a try on my 13 years old vectra, no noises so far, but I think is the time to prevent possible expenses. 😀 Thanks for sharing
Great idea, chose very high quality lubricant. The car manufactures has ball joints,tie rod ends ,etc made to their specs which in my opinion has continued to be getting lower quality over last few years. Replace those items when needed with higher quality parts if you can. Great video
We use this amzn.to/3p9g2u6 Thank you for watching and sharing Larry, we really appreciate your input, have a great day my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Solid advice. I do something similar: instead of a syringe with a fine liquid lube I use my trusty old steel oil can filled with 80W90 gear oil, poke a small hole in boots and pump some in. Works beautifully. Do it twice a year or with each oil change, whichever comes first. Every 3 months if there is already evidence of significant wear, especially on ball joints. Fact: aquired a 2002 Gr Marquis 4 years ago with only 35 000 miles (yeah, I am totally blessed). Lower left ball joint was noisy. Been doing above religiously every 3 months. 40 000 miles later lower left ball joint is still ok.
@@CarnivoreBum Lol it's in the control arm assembly a lot of the time and very easy to replace. Boot always likes to tear, it's like who is sitting here saying oh no I didn't grease my ball joint last week. For preventative maintenance though I can understand, but if there's a nice tear in the ball joint replace it.
@@artv4nd3l4y prevention is better than cure. Yes the point is prevention & this saves time, money & waste. If you take it a step further to keep the rubber supple as well, you won’t have torn rubber either.
I have one on the silicone. All you need to do is put the rubber gub glove tip on the top of your silicone. Squeeze some silicone in there and make sure there's no air and you'll always have good silicone it'll never seal on the inside used it for years. But yeah good idea man thanks!
Great video and no argument any lubrication is better then none ..But a big but here due to hard winters and road salt in the area I live in. boot failure is a much bigger issue then balljoint failure what are your thoughts or tips to protect the boots themselves
We use this amzn.to/2WQg0sB on the boots and all rubber on the vehicle. Thanks for watching and asking, we truly appreciate it my friend, hope you have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
You're going to need one of these amzn.to/3iqlyZ3 if your ball joint is shaking. Then after installing the new one, do the process in this video. Thanks for watching. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Would recommend filling with a lubricant as shown or warmed up bearing grease like NGLI 2 red n tacky from Lucas which is pretty thin? My Tundra doesn’t have zircon fittings. Thank You
Our process shown, is a "once & done", as stated in the video then continue with your regularly scheduled pm. Thanks for watching, have a great week. mad Mike & team
Great video! Back in the day I had a 93 Altima and it would blow through cv boots every two years like clockwork. I looked for silicone boots but no one made them. THIS process would have been the perfect solution. GENIUS!
Thank you very much PW, we truly appreciate the view and comment, hope you have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
the grease is for the steel bsll joint. Your boots do not fail because of a lack of grease... so how is injecting grease going to stop the boots wearing out?
I don’t get it. The reason cv joints go bad is because the boots crack or tear and the lubricant leaks out. Otherwise, they never go bad anyway. The lubricant inside the boots does not “wear out”. Don’t see how this “hack” would make any difference whatsoever on the longevity of the boots.
This absolutely works. I did this on a creaky balljoint on a 996 using standard WD40 White Lithium Grease. Creaking stopped and didnt return for another 3 years. Crazy hack!
I have been using grease needles on grease guns for decades and I routinely inject grease through the shields on bearings. It is a discouraged practice and I was told the reason is that it would cause bearing failure. Well it don't, it works real well though in a shop I can see where they do not want the liability of such practices and it can be time consuming to drill the holes in the bearing shields. The mainstream just replaces parts but in my experience I have gotten quite a few new parts that did not have adequate grease or it was dried out.
Hello Bill, as stated in the video, this process is a once and done then you go about your regular pm as necessary. Thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Excellent idea, thanks for that. Out of our 3 oldish cars the only one with any grease nipples is the Prado, and that's only got a greasable propshaft (though these days am grateful for any small mercies), and i do miss having proper grease nipples for the rest of the steering and suspension joints, even trucks over here in the UK have few if any grease nipples. Years ago when i started truck driving many trucks were fitted with 'autolube', this was a large pot of heavy oil or grease with dozens of pipes leading from it to all steering and suspension joints of the vehicle, as you drove along small quantities of lube were pumped into the joints at intervals. As with all good ideas things lasted too long so, those were done away with.
And its dumb that stock usually arent greasable to last longer like the old days especially with these people oh we need all chargers to be the same to cut e waste we need to do this to stop waste etc you stupid fucks make shit that lasts a long ass time, but no we got mr elon musk and everyone also like lets make electric cars, thats dumb af batteries, are all only made in china because of how much batteries polute the world so tell me how batteries are better than gas and oil lubed cars
I was recently told I needed to redo (and have redone) control arms, sways and a variety of other suspension items. Now I need struts, and I’d imagine they’re gonna tell me ball joints soon enough. I’ll be doing this for sure!!
@@rosslefave5877 what a (unt you are. More like Ba11s Lefave. I agree that as a general rule it’s always better to fix things forward and as efficiently as possible. But some people can’t get insurance and lots of peoples insurance doesn’t cover random suspension repairs if there’s no accident. This person was just asking a question if you can’t be nothing but nasty then go swallow a load you loudmouth chode.
Ive used syringes from farm stores, like rural king, to do this, but the appropriate grease is super hard to push through the small needles. Grease gun needles are a little big IMO. I also use them with the point of the needles snipped off to relybe ratchets. Way easier to get in the spring hole and pawls.
Awesome Matthew! Glad to have you here with us my friend, thanks for watching, hope you have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
Cool, but how does a low enough viscosity lubricant to pass through that hypodermic needle possess the extreme pressure properties needed in a ball joint? Sorry but I'm skeptical.
@@SweetProjectCars Any possibility of random lubricants being incompatible with the grease that is currently in there, and same grease to follow? Thanks for explaining.
I wouldn’t do this to CV boots because they will begin to sling grease as the tiny hole you made becomes larger. For non greasable ball joints it does help. Try slipping the needle under the edge of the boot if possible to prevent putting a hole in it
I had some cheap ball joint that were bad and made noise every time i got in and out of my truck I used a syringe and WD-40 before going on a long trip. Worked every time until I just replace them finally Thank for sharing.
Thanks for sharing, we don't recommend WD-40 we use this tinyurl.com/bdf6a6ky it's safe for the rubber as well. Have a great week my friend. mad Mike & team
You can buy an 18 guage needle at the the auto parts near you that plugs into your grease gun, use the right grease before joints are dry, works great.
We agree gene, but the process shown in the video is a "once and done" then, as stated in the video, you follow your regularly scheduled preventive maintenance. Thanks. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Some still do, use them for your regularly scheduled pm, greasing in this case. But the process shown is a "once & done" then as stated, continue with your regular pm. Thanks for watching and commenting, have a great week. mad Mike
My question is if your puncturing any of the rubber will that not cause a leak even when using a small surge and what type of gauge are you using on the needle.
Please re-watch the video and follow the instruction, we used these amzn.to/4djkq0p then as explained in the video, you use this amzn.to/3pal9KB to seal. Thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike
Makes more sense to make a larger hole so the proper grease can be used, then seal it with a little silicone. Nothing in a spray can has that much lubricating properties.
It's meant to PREVENT your ball joints from going bad, so when you replace it, then do this process and you'll never have to replace it again, then as stated in the video, follow your regularly scheduled pm. Thank you for watching and asking, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
@@SweetProjectCarswhat about the compatibility of the grease mixing with the lubricant? Mixing two different greases can be troublesome enough, let alone mixing a grease and a lubricant, wouldn't it just turned to soup?
Cool video thank you! Would you recommend some AT205 to keep the rubber on the boots from wearing out? And as I understand you need to only inject the boots one time, then keep up w/ the zerk fittings/normal greasing after that?
We use this amzn.to/2WQg0sB or this amzn.to/4dgPZaX on the boots to keep them conditioned. The process shown is a "once & done" then you are correct, you continue with your regularly scheduled pm my friend. Thanks for watching and asking, hope you have a fantastic day. mad Mike
Great video. A little confused if the lubricant is enough without adding grease. How would you add grease through that tiny hole. Maybe it's for another video? Thanks.
As we state in the video, this is a "once & done" then you continue with your regular pm with your grease etc. Hope this helps, thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Amazing. It's all common sense but it's not something we would have thought of! I always love what you film. Thank you very much from Pennsylvania and Merry Christmas
If you dont want to uses syringe do you think you could add this S50 spray to the grease in the grease lube tube and mix it in then use it to lube your ball joints as normal?
Please follow the video to a T, there are no other alternatives, use the exact same tools, products and method, we've spent years perfecting this process. Thanks for watching and asking, have a great week. mad Mike
I am a trained as a mechanic if you can put it in the grease it will fill the boot if it does not have a greaser then your process will work beautifully providing your ball joint is not already damaged
You are correct, but we do both, this method as well as the regular pm of greasing. Thank you for watching and sharing, George, have a great week my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Glad you liked it Bill! Welcome to our channel, we truly appreciate the view and comment my friend, Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to you from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
Well you're going to need one of these amzn.to/3Xkmr40 And as stated in the video, this process is a once and done, then you continue with your regularly scheduled pm. Thanks for watching. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Great video and info on making your ball joints and CV joints last forever!! Sarah let me ask you what is a good reputable brand anymore to get ball joints from? I have a 2013 Ford Mustang GT 302 ball and I’m looking to replace the control arm and ball joints but it seemed like everything I run across is garbage anymore like Moog used to be decent but now they’re straight garbage as well!! I would like to find something that’s made for performance and will hold up and last for a while? Thanks
The best thing you can do is head straight to your local Ford dealership parts department, it will cost a little more, but that way you will get genuine OEM parts for your Mustang. Hope this helps, it's exactly what we would do my friend. Thanks for watching and asking, have a fantastic weekend. mad Mike
2007 Toyota Corolla s. When I turn my steering wheel left or right. I get a clicking or knocking sound one side louder . Any ideas why ? Could it be my CV axle? What could I use so I can drive it until I can afford to change it
I would definitely check your cv joints my friend. Thanks for watching, have a great day and all the best on your project Rayon. mad Mike the hammer SPC
In the past I've tried a syringe to grease joints....out here on the "Left Coast" (literally), it's impossible to buy any syringe with a needle due to State law/rules & regulations, unless you have a medical RX for it. I've wound up peeling up the skirt if possible on mostly CV boots, after loosening the metal clamps & adding the thickest "Radio Shack " grey tube "Duralube/molybendium NASA used/approved wgrey tube wonder grease, & as much as I can jam in. CV joint "black grease" is great, for 1-2 years max imho, before it crusts up + centrifugal force forces it to spin & collect in the outside of the CV joints. &sing a much thinner viscosity grease in parrallel with stock/OEM thick grease gives you 200%-500% more protection as shown in studies....I wouldn't recommend us8ng Slick 50 in all applications as 1st choice, however ANY LIGHT OIL IS BETTER THAN NOTHING!! Also, definitely try & put any needle syringe hole as close to vertical on any joint as gravity sucks & that way the injected grease will fall down from the top & coat the part before falling to the bottom. I use as much extra grease as I can fit in on every joint + after sealing any hole, "wetting" the rubber cap or joint cover with the light grease helps keep the rubber flexible & helps prevent gracking even better than 303 for rubber that has to bend & flex. I also use RS wonder grease to lubricate the top & bottom rubbing zones v. metal when using urethane bushing. Helps keep any wear or fray on the urethane down. Urethane bushings are the highest performance bushings + sometimes joints & boot covers for sport oriented ins5alls. Approximately 20% stiffer than rubber, but they creak like heck. FYI ALL serious RC racers use a Slick 50 type light lubricating oil on their (normally) Ceramic wheel bear8ng sets that spin @ 35k rpm +. Optional Ceramic wheel/tranny RC car sets normally cost from $300-$1500 & are a must have for any serious racer. If it's good enough for tiny cars.....😊. Minus the syringe issue there are 2 genius hacks in your video. Using flexible rubber caulking on a cracked CV joint, U joint or ? would save hundreds to $1000's as a quick fix. & "self lubricating U joints, aren't depending on heat & dirt etc. Manufacturers just build in a level of petroleum oil into the rubber & hipe it never cracks. The consumer is always responsible for installati9n costs IF the my break & you're lucky to get a free new one. Read your parts warranty! A voice activated Go Pro is genius as well. Y haven't I seen one? D*mn, I wish I'd thought 9f your channel before you, however your fixes & product ideas are far bey9nd merely detailing, preservation. i know you've found & made better mixes but 303 remains my staple for rubber & plastic + now tires. *n any State I wouldn't carry filled needle syringes in your car. Out here 1 needle syringe is a misdemeanor. Police hate anything that might prick them during a search. I don't even want to think about the liabiliity if someone broke 8nto your car & was stupid enough to inject Oil/Slick 50 into their body. Guarantee they/their Estate would figure out a way to sue you for GBH + negligence. Better to keep it in your work shop. FYI "Slip Boots" & all other easy torn CV boot & joint f8xes have been outlawed in most Western States for years. Much more dangerous than a leaking torn CV joint boot for some reason. Keep up the great tips!
Bic first off we did not say anything about carrying around syringes inside your car and as far as getting syringes to do this job I’m sure you know somebody in another state that can get them for you and ship them to you if you cannot buy them online secondly we love 303 and this video is not about rubbery or plastic protection this is about lubricating the metal parts inside the ball joint thirdly if someone was dumb enough to carry filled syringe in their car they deserve what they have coming to them. Working on cars in any capacity takes a bit of common sense and smarts and I am sure there are a few out there they do not carry these two traits and they should stay as far away from working on a car or anything else including trying to open a loaf of bread by removing the tie wrap. Have a fantastic Christmas and a superior new year from everyone at Sweet project cars.
It sure will JC! Just let it sit for 2 or 3 days, then do the process as shown in the video. Thank you for watching and asking, hope you have a great week and all the best on your project. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Amazon to the rescue. These syringes are absolutely impossible to find anywhere locally. And anytime I asked anyone where to find one, they looked at me like I was planning on shooting meth up my arm lol.
Yeah same here. I´m having problem to buy these at local pharmacies. When I ask for 5 small syringies with thin needle they don ´t believe me that i need ´em to to lube ball joints :)
Someone mentioned white grease would be better than lubricant (solvents) A tub of white grease cost $4 Would you heat this up on stove to liquefy for syringe? What temperatures will syringe begin breaking down? Why does this trick work better than grease fitting? I understand most components no longer have grease fittings but you specifically mentioned they don't work as well? Awesome tip... Thank you 👌
We use this amzn.to/3p9g2u6 for this once and done process. Then as stated in the video, you go ahead with your regularly scheduled pm. Thank you for watching and asking, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Thank you very much Pedro, we appreciate the view my friend, all of the products/tools we use in all of our videos can be found in the SHOW MORE of the videos description, if you can't find it let us know and we would be happy to help you. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from the team at Sweet Project Cars.
@@SweetProjectCars Thanks kindly! Some people have ceased to have any original thoughts after age 10. sadly. Thanks for being a true individual with a generous heart! Enjoy ! ; ruclips.net/video/07NSy3J-wbM/видео.html
Great technique. Would you recommend this for U-joints? I noticed the U-joints on my 4x4 have no grease nipple but I imagine I might be able to stick a needle through each of the 4 small rubber boots. I can't seem to find Slick 50 1-Lube available in Canada. Any recommended alternatives? Thanks again.
Hello Rob this works great for you joints and as far as the slick 50 in Canada your best bet is to find someone in the US that will buy a can of it for you and ship it to you hope this helps thanks Mad mike The Hammer we project cars
We use this tinyurl.com/bdf6a6ky and remember, this process is a "once & done" then continue with your regularly scheduled pm. Thanks for the view, have a great day. mad Mike & team
I see you've moved on to Dr Mike now LOL. That looks like a very easy way to renew the grease that tends to get hard and stiff over time, kind of like my old body 😛
You got that right Leonard! LOL, thanks for watching my friend, it's always a pleasure to hear from you. Hope you have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
I switched to the sealed joints years ago, and they hold up better than the old greaseable ones with the zerk, they'd hold up even better using your stabby trick to lube them, I guess that's the best of both worlds.
Hence the use of this amzn.to/3pal9KB there is no grease pushing out doing this process as shown. Thanks for watching, have a great week. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Mike, thank you for all the great tips and the effort that you put into helping us! May happiness follow you wherever you go friend. God bless you and yours, have a Merry Christmas and a fantastic New Year( even though it feels like it’s going to be 1984 at this rate 😉 )
Our pleasure to help Nitrofreak! Thank you for watching and for the kind comment, we really appreciate it, hope you have a fantastic day (sorry for the delayed response my friend). mad Mike & team
Does this work if its already making noise, or is it a preventative to getting to that point? Mine just starting making a noise when turning my wheel right or breaking it aeems.
It's meant to PREVENT your ball joints from going bad, so when you replace it, which you now may have to do, then do this process and you'll never have to replace it again. Thank you for watching and asking, have a great day. mad Mike
Hi keelan The sooner you can get it in there the better my friend thanks for asking have a merry Christmas and a great new year from Sweet project cars
Seems ok for joints without zerks but if it has a zerk I use paragon 3000 grease in everything. Hasn't failed me yet, and it's great in my 988 loader too
so cool, thank you. i do all the tricks you recommend from windshield wipers to tires and now this. oh and i restored my leather seats with your trick too. thanks a lot also, would you still grease the joints normally at every interval or is the grease going to just stay in the boots?
Hello John, this doesn't change your normal pm that you will do on your vehicle, grease jobs included. Thank you for watching and asking, have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from the team at Sweet Project Cars.
Pretty sure if you have geasable joints and actually have them greased at every oil change this wouldn't be necessary. Unfortunately, newer cars have "sealed" joints and if they aren't "sealed it's like pulling teeth to get the kids at the quick lube to do their job properly. Also, it's wise to know how many greasable joints you have so you can call them on it if they say you don't have any or only try to grease the "easy" ones.
If you watch the video in it's entirety, you will see us use this amzn.to/3pal9KB for sealing the pin hole Shane. Thank you for watching, have a great week. mad Mike the hammer SPC
helps to have a small car too. nothing wears out much the lighter the car is. the metals dont get any harder for the big vehicles. the high weight just grinds everything like ball joints, alignment, tires, brakes, axles, wheel bearings, transmissions. specially if you drive them a bit hard like turning, accelerating and braking hard. avoid bad roads too. got a 17 year old corolla never needed a ball joint and hardly any brakes or tire changed. the tires dry rot before they wear out.
Thanks for watching and sharing, we really appreciate it my friend. Hope you have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
I had done this method of injecting the ball joints, tie & toe rod joints, cv joints, and hydro (spherical) bushings. The rubber boots had about a six to seven year life then would break open. I found polyurethane boot covers from E.S. to protect the rubber boots well. The work to fitting this material was difficult at times but worth it. I use Nanolub ( Nanotech Indusdrial Solutions in New Jersey )grease every where i can and have very wear in the suspension. A shame the oem's don't provide lube points to maintain these machine.
We use both, leakyjeep, as stated in the video, this is on top of your regular pm my friend. Thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Meiko trust us my friend we have been at this for over 40 years if you keep something lubed up above and beyond manufacture standards parts just do not wear out you’ll absolutely love this hack have a fantastic merry Christmas and an awesome new year from mad Mike and the entire team at Sweet project cars
I'm thinking his reasoning is that the joint will float just a bit in the liquid lube, where as grease is stiff and once wore off the metal to metal contact it won't help much unless the vehicle is used in a very warm climate where the grease becomes somewhat fluid. Being saturated in liquid lube may help as he purposes.
@SweetProjectCars hey have you seen Henry's 100 percent silicone spray. I've used 5 gallon container on my rv roof. Just they now have it in a spray can and was wondering what you think about it in thanking of doing this and coating them with the Henry's but I've noticed it is nothing like flex seal it does harden and Crack but I'd like really rubber silicone and stretchy too. Just thoughts but I'm thinking of doing the 1 silicone which would help hardened grease and then the gasket maker over the hole and then coating it with the Henry's 100 silicone spray as I've used the other product before with good results on roof.
We only use this now tinyurl.com/bdf6a6ky then as stated in the video, you continue with your regularly sceduled pm, and just a reminder, all of the products/tools we use in our videos can be found in the .....More of the video description. Thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike & team
This tinyurl.com/bdf6a6ky is all the same product, just in different packaging for different applications my friend. Thank you for watching and asking, have a great weekend. mad Mike & team
Definitely going to do this for my electric chevy bolt 2017. Make that car last before the battery end up towards the end of its life time or in 30 years I'll see how it ends up holding. Great video.
I have grease nipple with a small bore pipe silver soldered and chamfered to a point, the puncture is larger than a hypo but your adding grease if there’s no grease nipple on the joint.
I tried this and now my car is addicted to injecting oils! and likes hanging around under bridges! 😂😂😂😂 all jokes aside it's the best way to do it! I use to get strange looks from people because I would have a few loaded syringes in my tool box when I would go trail bike riding!
LOL, thanks for watching and sharing and making all of us laugh this morning, DJ! We really appreciate the view, and we are with you on this method, have a great week my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
At what mileage interval do you recommend this lubrication service? We have a 2014 Ram 1500 w/ 143k, a 2014 Dodge Journey w/68k, and a 2021 Ford Edge w/2k. Thank you.
Hello Peter this is a once and done process 1 mL into each joint is all you need hope this helps have a merry Christmas and a fantastic new year from mad Mike and everyone at Sweet project cars
Came from the shop a few months ago and the mechanics said I need new ball joints on my 2017 Ram 1500. Will this method work on my ball joints so that they will not need to be replaced? Thank you for your time.
It's meant to PREVENT your ball joints from going bad, so when you replace it, then do this process and you'll never have to replace it again. Thank you for watching and asking, have a great day. mad Mike & team
Hi, when I go to Amazon to find the correct syringe to use so it doesn’t get clogged up it says sorry cannot be found. Can you tell me the size that I need to buy ? thank you so much 🙌
Glad you liked it Scorch! Thank you so much for watching and sharing, we truly appreciate all of our great subscribers like you, have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from the team here at Sweet Project Cars.
Good / interesting hack especially if U have none serviceable units.. If serviceable and U use good Synthetic grease annually or every 3 or 4 oil change they'll never squeak and help keep boot moist and prolong cracking as fitting is in sweet spot on top of ball joint But the syringe is better than nothing for sure though boot area is well below actual ballpoint and the liquid will inevitably settle in boot area..
We do this method in addition to our regular pm, Chad. Thank you for watching and sharing, we really appreciate your input, have a great day my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Hello to all our great Subscribers! We wanted to give you a gift as it is that time of the year you know :) This is one of our best vehicle hacks and it works so good you won't believe it. As we say why not do a little extra so you never have to worry or replace parts on your car, truck or semi! ***2 Quotes of the Week: Do what you feel in your heart to be right - for you'll be criticized anyway. #2 A single conversation across the table with a wise man is better than ten years of mere study of books.***
So we can just do that once and never have to replace things like that ever again?
I'm doing this to all joints on all my kids cars by year-end! Your gift to me is my gift to them!!! Thank you!
I like the quotes very much.
Young ones come up with their own point of view & collectively , their individuality is "taught " out of them in a few short years of the public 'fool's system.
Enjoy; ruclips.net/video/07NSy3J-wbM/видео.html
Glad you clarified what kind of joint i almost shot that in my knee. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
So the lubricant acts as a rubber conditioner and stops the rubber from cracking? Allowing the grease to remain in the rubber boot?
Will this work on my knees?
LOL, I hear ya! Thanks for watching my friend, have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
@@SweetProjectCars Thanks. I'll start doing this on my next tear down and rebuild.
Yes, old schoolers back home sprayed their knees with WD40 or grease up with cayenne pepper and emu oil mixture. They swore by this stuff.
Bro😂 that was good😂
@@islandbreezy441 lol 😂
Back in the 80's. I started out working in a shop doing oil changes. Eventually, moving up to brakes, exhaust, transmission, etc.
We used to lube ALL of the suspension bushings. I've noticed recently. If you get an oil change and lube, today. THESE specific items are neglected!!!
Mechanics today don't use anti seize on brake caliper bolts!!!
Attention to detail has died!!!
Agreed! Thank you for watching and sharing, we really appreciate it, have a great week. mad Mike the hammer SPC
I would hardly need anti seize if they didnt fcking impact the bolts back on.
Jfc just use a bit driver to snug it up and just use like a 16 or 24" torque wrench at like 80 or 100.
Me and buddy tried to help a friend break the nuts loose on her focus and neither of us could get them to budge. Used pb blaster, pipe on the bar, buddy tried jumping on it, everything except a torch now that I think about it.
The shop snapped the studs getting em off 😑
At over $100 an hour, here in Australia, you wouldn't want them paying too much attention to detail, although they are good at adding that extra time (attention to detail) to your bill, even when they clearly haven't done it, I have caught them out many times.
Well y'all would love to hate me, I'm 34 so not an old timer yet either.
When I do a break job I descale the whole caliper bracket, the bolts, the slide bolts, if they're F'd I replace them, and continue to descale any other mating surface. The clips are greased on both sides, pad's ears get touched, the mating surfaces between the caliper and the pads, the slide bolts but clearly not the threads, I'll force you to get your rotors turned or replaced if they're shite, I replace rubber lines when they're shite, I'll make up new brake line when needed, I only use copper-nickel brake line, I will apply anti seize to threads, I will also charge you no less than $100 per wheel well for labor alone. Depending on the vehicle & If you're willing to pay, I'll recondition your calipers too. I don't do hourly, I'll bid you out like a job & if you don't like it tell you to go to someone who does it like it's work as opposed to something they care to take Pride in. I own my own tools for whatever task I take on from mechanical to construction trades. I make pretty good money & mostly I would say it's because I take pride in my work. I would certainly advocate that you get what you pay for. Want a 15 minute pad change? I wouldn't, but I Can do that too.. When you go to a shop with overhead and employees, they want turnover. Think about what your money pays for when You're paying.
I bring my tools to the job.
When you pay me, it's the growth of my personal business, bills, and kids that benefit directly. When you pay a large shop, there's a lot of overhead.
No it hasn't... it just costs double the price
I find needles in my local park all the time what a great way to recycle
Well, not sure you should touch those, but to each his own :) Thanks for watching Mike, have a great day my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
lol.... good one..love your sense of humor
Be Careful with HIV Transmission. Or at least get a Prescription of P.R.E.P.
I guess if you have a grab stick, you can pick them up, and drop them in boiling water, and let it sun dry 😊.
I did this. Now my car has hepatitis.
LOL Thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike
😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂😂😂
Code P00hn0 🤣
Lol🤦♀️
Been using syringe to grease the joints on my Ranger for over 20 years, since there are no zerk fittings from the factory. Seems I gotta do it twice a year because the joints start squeaking so loudly. Only problem is the outer rubber is starting to show it's age and cracking...might have to actually replace them someday. But with only 331K miles, they can't be worn out yet...
Fred use this amzn.to/32iGCYK on the boots so you will then never have to replace the joints
I knew exactly the product you were gonna recommend before I clicked the link lol.
@@SweetProjectCars Hey SPC, should add that to a video sometime. I bought 303 because of you and you keep it real. definitely need a video on what to hit with the 303 yknow?
I like this syringe presentation and will try it to injects lubricant on the inside. For the outside of the joint, the best I can suggest is to brush apply a little transmission seal protector that uses a polymer to recondition seals. To fix a squeak on a 2003 GMC Envoy, I used Lucas Transmission Fix and alternately 303 Aerospace Protectant it for 5 + years now. The Lucas is as thick as grease; the 303 is thin but it works well too. Rationale is that plastic polymers chemically meld into the rubber to keep them young. Am happy with the solution.
@@SweetProjectCars : I have....but only for the last 2 or 3 years. I think they were too far gone when I started using it.
I had a really bad creaking/squeaking sound when turning and when going over bumps in my 99 Accord. I did this to the upper and lower ball joints and it worked! Thank you!
Nice work! Thank you for watching and sharing, have a great day Marky98. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Thats only a temporary "fix" I'd get it replaced, chances are it's also worn out
@@adrianmora7033 yea that Jerry Rigging
They need to be replaced, and then start doing this process on the new parts for them to last longer, Preventive maintenance
You should replace them.... not just use a thin cleaner... these caned lubricants are not made for this kind of use. Replace your balljoints
That's actually great way to expand joint lifespan, the only thing I would like to highlight - do not use the best possible oil/grease, but pick the one suitable for the materials the joint is build. Mostly this black rubber is NBR or SBR which are not resistant to synthetic oils that mostly you'll find in wd40 or any other lube oil. Instead there are special ptfe white greases that do not destroy the rubber.
Can you mention the brand or name please 🙏
@@HARDYMANGAT kY jelly
It's this amzn.to/3p9g2u6 and just a reminder, all of the products/tools we use in our videos can always be found in the ...MORE of the videos description, see here 3c5.com/4u6dj if you can't find it let us know and we will help you. Thanks for watching. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Anal lube.🤣
I don’t know wat u injecting with ur syringe with that lube probly a brown eye or a black eye make sure u don’t tear that rubber
Through trial and error I learned that the recommended syringes work well with WD-40 White Lithium grease spray. Using the straw, spray a decent amount into medium to large ziplock baggie and allow to settle. After foam turns into liquid mix it around a bit, cut small corner and push liquid out into back of syringe. Boom. The spray grease works really great too
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great weekend my friend. mad Mike
WD40 is NOT a lube or oil, it´s a CLEANER!
you should read the announcements... it´s name is: Water Displacement!
wait why not pull the grease fitting out put the oil in then replace the grease fitting????
When I started doing this on my w123 Mercedes I used a pink needle (the largest inner diameter) and a 10 ml syringe. This was big enough to suck upp weapon grease (jelly like) and fill upp the joint. You don't need to worry about the needle hole...just repeat procedure at least every second year. This has worked fine for me. 😎 I got this idea about 15 years ago since I worked in health care
Thank you for watching and sharing Claes, have a great evening and Happy New Year. mad Mike the hammer SPC
What in Tardation? The grease he's using is WD40 tier because he probably doesnt know large gauge needles exist. Its not grease and if it where grease its the wrong kind. Even the proper grease lowers wear and tear but doesnt eliminate it. On a factory ball joint the tolerances are so tight the grease doesnt enter that equation until you got some miles on it to increase the life of the ball joint with tighter tolerance. Usually things like this fail way after the boot does and imo thats where you start fighting a losing battle with a grease gun and a fitting to see how long you can keep your original ball joint. I'll keep the tip in the back of my pocket of "this is how you can rig a grease fitting without 1" but they where eliminated in sound mind and I will probably just go with the conventional method of Driving ball joints to death and simply replacing them. As its not a situation of lack of lube or dirt invasion or rust that really kills them. Its more old, age with improvements in metallurgy. Im getting a boat ton of miles off my ball joints watching them rot.
Wich oil to use ?
I figured this out 15 years ago and it works great! Still to this day!. Good job!.
Great to hear Steve! Thank you for watching and sharing, hope you have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
Thank you!, and Merry Christmas to you!.
Isn’t your liquid going to be forced out with future regular greasings?
How many times do you repeat this?
So what does it do? And what if my rubber boot is cracked should I just change them or do this method ?
It might be useful to also rub some glycerin or polypropylene glycol on the outside of the rubber boot to keep it supple and prevent cracks. Good inside and outside.
I spray all rubber parts w 303 magic!
Silicone grease or oil is the ideal substance for rubber
Aerospace 303 works really well
They aren't rubber, they are Nitrile. 😎
@@DeepSouthernTX good point
I recently quieted the first ball joint squeaks on factory ball joints with no zirc fittings by chucking a ball inflation needle in my grease gun. Worked great and it's whatever heavy grease you like. Didn't do the silicone hole seal but the grease is thick enough to stay in there for a while.
Thanks for watching christopher, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Genius
"chucking a ball inflation needle in my grease gun" ... It just screwed on the grease gun end (with the hose off)? And, no problems getting to all areas regarding the room? Or, it went on the hose end? My situation is that I have not got under the car yet and checked for play. I may do that soon because I have to fix a fog light housing (but I am trying to decide what new LEDs to buy before I do that. No sense getting under there twice.) This can be a temporary fix for the noise if anything is worn. EDIT Oh, and it managed to poke through the rubber? If so, I guess you used Permatex, also? TY for the post. :-)
EDIT I just looked for a grease gun to buy. I guess you _had_ to use the hose?
EDIT Wow, bunch of edits. There are grease gun needles available.
@@SweetProjectCars Hey. :-) I have no clunking so I guess it is a ball joint, (squeaking). I can push down on the suspension and no squeaking of any kind. If I am lucky there will be nothing that needs to be replaced. (122,300 miles.) TY for the video.
I help a friend of mine during haying season on his cattle operation. Lots of tractors and hay balers going. When we take a break under a shade tree he goes around feeling driveline U-joints and bearings. Hot ones get a long shot of wheel bearing grease with a syringe on the grease gun stuck into the Neoprene seal of the of the beaings and the Zerks or U-joints. We never get a failure that way. Offending parts that overheat more than once go on a list for replacement in the off season.
I only do this if the joint doesn't have a grease zerk. Grease is still the better option when available and regrease annually keeping rubber boots clean then spraying with a rubber treatment to keep them like new. If there is no grease zerk this absolutely works to help keeps those joints going.
We do this once, then all regular greasing (preventative maintenance) as usual. Thank you for watching and sharing, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
6:27 but he said you have to grease as normal afterward. Am I missing something?
Nice, but why do you use a super thin spray lubricant instead of a bearing grease? Is it because of the thickness and not cooperating with the syringe? If so, possibly mix 50/50 think lubricant with bearing grease to make it thin enough to suck into the syringe.
This method is a once and done, you still do your regular pm with the grease. Thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
That's awesome brother thankyou for sharing !! Much love everybody !
OK, this is sounds cool, I'll give it a try on my 13 years old vectra, no noises so far, but I think is the time to prevent possible expenses. 😀 Thanks for sharing
Our pleasure to help my friend. Thank you for watching and sharing, Marin! Have a fantastic day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Great idea, chose very high quality lubricant. The car manufactures has ball joints,tie rod ends ,etc made to their specs which in my opinion has continued to be getting lower quality over last few years. Replace those items when needed with higher quality parts if you can. Great video
We use this amzn.to/3p9g2u6 Thank you for watching and sharing Larry, we really appreciate your input, have a great day my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Love the “‘nuff said” energy that came with that “GoPro stop recording” lmao
LOL, Thanks for watching, glad you liked it! Have a fantastic day my friend. mad Mike & team
Solid advice. I do something similar: instead of a syringe with a fine liquid lube I use my trusty old steel oil can filled with 80W90 gear oil, poke a small hole in boots and pump some in. Works beautifully. Do it twice a year or with each oil change, whichever comes first.
Every 3 months if there is already evidence of significant wear, especially on ball joints. Fact: aquired a 2002 Gr Marquis 4 years ago with only 35 000 miles (yeah, I am totally blessed). Lower left ball joint was noisy. Been doing above religiously every 3 months. 40 000 miles later lower left ball joint is still ok.
Thank you for watching and sharing, we really appreciate it, hope you have a great week my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Or you could replace joint and not have to mess with needles, lube and glue.
@@CarnivoreBum The joints this is being used on are not in need of replacing. The entire point is to prevent having to replace them in the future.
@@CarnivoreBum Lol it's in the control arm assembly a lot of the time and very easy to replace. Boot always likes to tear, it's like who is sitting here saying oh no I didn't grease my ball joint last week. For preventative maintenance though I can understand, but if there's a nice tear in the ball joint replace it.
@@artv4nd3l4y prevention is better than cure. Yes the point is prevention & this saves time, money & waste.
If you take it a step further to keep the rubber supple as well, you won’t have torn rubber either.
I have one on the silicone. All you need to do is put the rubber gub glove tip on the top of your silicone. Squeeze some silicone in there and make sure there's no air and you'll always have good silicone it'll never seal on the inside used it for years. But yeah good idea man thanks!
Thanks for watching and sharing your idea, we really appreciate it, hope you have a great week my friend. mad Mike
Great video and no argument any lubrication is better then none ..But a big but here due to hard winters and road salt in the area I live in. boot failure is a much bigger issue then balljoint failure what are your thoughts or tips to protect the boots themselves
We use this amzn.to/2WQg0sB on the boots and all rubber on the vehicle. Thanks for watching and asking, we truly appreciate it my friend, hope you have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
baby oil also revives and protects
What if your ball joint is shaking . Is this grease for broken ball joints too?
You're going to need one of these amzn.to/3iqlyZ3 if your ball joint is shaking. Then after installing the new one, do the process in this video. Thanks for watching. mad Mike the hammer SPC
@@SweetProjectCars thanks just bought 2 today.
Been doing this for years , it absolutely works
Really? I would think after a while it would come out with all the pressure. That's never happened?
@@mydaddy5393 he sealed it with silicone glue
can we use wd40 as syringe lube vaccine?
@@fidelcatsro6948 don't be stupid; never use wd40 as lubricant.
@Fidel Castro you sure can! It's kept me out of the hospital and I don't even wear masks driving alone in my car anymore!
Would recommend filling with a lubricant as shown or warmed up bearing grease like NGLI 2 red n tacky from Lucas which is pretty thin? My Tundra doesn’t have zircon fittings.
Thank You
Our process shown, is a "once & done", as stated in the video then continue with your regularly scheduled pm. Thanks for watching, have a great week. mad Mike & team
Great video! Back in the day I had a 93 Altima and it would blow through cv boots every two years like clockwork. I looked for silicone boots but no one made them. THIS process would have been the perfect solution. GENIUS!
Thank you very much PW, we truly appreciate the view and comment, hope you have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
the grease is for the steel bsll joint. Your boots do not fail because of a lack of grease...
so how is injecting grease going to stop the boots wearing out?
I don’t get it. The reason cv joints go bad is because the boots crack or tear and the lubricant leaks out. Otherwise, they never go bad anyway. The lubricant inside the boots does not “wear out”. Don’t see how this “hack” would make any difference whatsoever on the longevity of the boots.
@@dantheman1337use silicon spray on rubber boots to rejuvenate and to keep them healthy.
I do this regularly but now that I stop doing it my car start shaking and all windows are sweating, I think my car is on withdrawal?
LOL, thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike & team
This absolutely works. I did this on a creaky balljoint on a 996 using standard WD40 White Lithium Grease. Creaking stopped and didnt return for another 3 years. Crazy hack!
Nice work! Thank you for watching and sharing your sweeeet results, have a fantastic week my friend. mad Mike
I have been using grease needles on grease guns for decades and I routinely inject grease through the shields on bearings. It is a discouraged practice and I was told the reason is that it would cause bearing failure. Well it don't, it works real well though in a shop I can see where they do not want the liability of such practices and it can be time consuming to drill the holes in the bearing shields. The mainstream just replaces parts but in my experience I have gotten quite a few new parts that did not have adequate grease or it was dried out.
We are with you on that, Gary! Thank you for watching and sharing, have a fantastic day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
You are correct, Grease NOT OIL
What I've learned from people over the years: NEVER use a dirty needle. Your parts may get something Ajax can't get rid of
Sounds good! Thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike
I don’t know if this would be good to put spray from a can where grease should be
Hello Bill, as stated in the video, this process is a once and done then you go about your regular pm as necessary. Thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Excellent idea, thanks for that.
Out of our 3 oldish cars the only one with any grease nipples is the Prado, and that's only got a greasable propshaft (though these days am grateful for any small mercies), and i do miss having proper grease nipples for the rest of the steering and suspension joints, even trucks over here in the UK have few if any grease nipples.
Years ago when i started truck driving many trucks were fitted with 'autolube', this was a large pot of heavy oil or grease with dozens of pipes leading from it to all steering and suspension joints of the vehicle, as you drove along small quantities of lube were pumped into the joints at intervals.
As with all good ideas things lasted too long so, those were done away with.
I'm lucky, I've just brought a Merc 813 with Autolube fitted 😉🙏
And its dumb that stock usually arent greasable to last longer like the old days especially with these people oh we need all chargers to be the same to cut e waste we need to do this to stop waste etc you stupid fucks make shit that lasts a long ass time, but no we got mr elon musk and everyone also like lets make electric cars, thats dumb af batteries, are all only made in china because of how much batteries polute the world so tell me how batteries are better than gas and oil lubed cars
Great idea, funny how that works isn't it? Haha..
It sucks greed, got the best of people.
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a fantastic day my friend. mad Mike
Just tried this a few hours ago. Squeaks really gone. Thanks Man! It really works!
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
I was recently told I needed to redo (and have redone) control arms, sways and a variety of other suspension items. Now I need struts, and I’d imagine they’re gonna tell me ball joints soon enough. I’ll be doing this for sure!!
Awesome! Thank you for watching and sharing iggyzag, we really appreciate it, hope you have a great New Year my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
How did it go? Did u do it
@@africajamzfm I'm sure that pile fell apart. If you can't fix it right get insurance and they will.
@@rosslefave5877 what a (unt you are. More like Ba11s Lefave. I agree that as a general rule it’s always better to fix things forward and as efficiently as possible. But some people can’t get insurance and lots of peoples insurance doesn’t cover random suspension repairs if there’s no accident. This person was just asking a question if you can’t be nothing but nasty then go swallow a load you loudmouth chode.
Did the lubrication work? Or did you pay to have the replacement work done?
if the ball joint or tie rod end started creeking, is it recommended to replace it or grease it?
Ive used syringes from farm stores, like rural king, to do this, but the appropriate grease is super hard to push through the small needles. Grease gun needles are a little big IMO. I also use them with the point of the needles snipped off to relybe ratchets. Way easier to get in the spring hole and pawls.
just warm the grease up first flows a lot better 🙂
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great rest of your week. mad Mike
My original Hyundai lower ball joint & outer tide rod last for 17 years , just replaced it with Moog .
Congratulations spent more money than you had to lol
It's 4:30 am here in Australia, just got in from a breakdown tow.
I'm going to have a 30 min sleep then check this out. Merry Christmas you legends.
Awesome Matthew! Glad to have you here with us my friend, thanks for watching, hope you have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
Cool, but how does a low enough viscosity lubricant to pass through that hypodermic needle possess the extreme pressure properties needed in a ball joint? Sorry but I'm skeptical.
As stated in the video, this is a "once & done" then continue with your regularly scheduled pm. Thanks for watching. mad Mike & team
@@SweetProjectCars Any possibility of random lubricants being incompatible with the grease that is currently in there, and same grease to follow? Thanks for explaining.
captain we have not had compatibility issues any time we have done this mad mike out
So this is where all those needles on the street in my neighborhood are coming from! : )
LOL, thanks for watching, have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from the team at Sweet Project Cars.
ahahahahaa
I wouldn’t do this to CV boots because they will begin to sling grease as the tiny hole you made becomes larger. For non greasable ball joints it does help. Try slipping the needle under the edge of the boot if possible to prevent putting a hole in it
I had some cheap ball joint that were bad and made noise every time i got in and out of my truck I used a syringe and WD-40 before going on a long trip.
Worked every time until I just replace them finally
Thank for sharing.
Thanks for sharing, we don't recommend WD-40 we use this tinyurl.com/bdf6a6ky it's safe for the rubber as well. Have a great week my friend. mad Mike & team
@@SweetProjectCars Yes I agree. But it was what I had at the time. Thanks.
You can buy an 18 guage needle at the the auto parts near you that plugs into your grease gun, use the right grease before joints are dry, works great.
We agree gene, but the process shown in the video is a "once and done" then, as stated in the video, you follow your regularly scheduled preventive maintenance. Thanks. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Excellent vídeo, excellent job, excellent information, thank you so much for share your beautiful vídeo, this is new for me, god bless you
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching and commenting, have a great day my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
I remember when all these points of lubrication actually had grease fittings!
Some still do, use them for your regularly scheduled pm, greasing in this case. But the process shown is a "once & done" then as stated, continue with your regular pm. Thanks for watching and commenting, have a great week. mad Mike
My question is if your puncturing any of the rubber will that not cause a leak even when using a small surge and what type of gauge are you using on the needle.
Please re-watch the video and follow the instruction, we used these amzn.to/4djkq0p then as explained in the video, you use this amzn.to/3pal9KB to seal. Thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike
Makes more sense to make a larger hole so the proper grease can be used, then seal it with a little silicone. Nothing in a spray can has that much lubricating properties.
It's meant to PREVENT your ball joints from going bad, so when you replace it, then do this process and you'll never have to replace it again, then as stated in the video, follow your regularly scheduled pm. Thank you for watching and asking, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
@@SweetProjectCarswhat about the compatibility of the grease mixing with the lubricant? Mixing two different greases can be troublesome enough, let alone mixing a grease and a lubricant, wouldn't it just turned to soup?
Cool video thank you! Would you recommend some AT205 to keep the rubber on the boots from wearing out? And as I understand you need to only inject the boots one time, then keep up w/ the zerk fittings/normal greasing after that?
We use this amzn.to/2WQg0sB or this amzn.to/4dgPZaX on the boots to keep them conditioned. The process shown is a "once & done" then you are correct, you continue with your regularly scheduled pm my friend. Thanks for watching and asking, hope you have a fantastic day. mad Mike
If you use high quality synthetic grease will better so u don't have to use a silicone afterwards thanks anyway for sharing
We use both! Thanks for watching Youssef, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Great video. A little confused if the lubricant is enough without adding grease. How would you add grease through that tiny hole. Maybe it's for another video? Thanks.
As we state in the video, this is a "once & done" then you continue with your regular pm with your grease etc. Hope this helps, thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Amazing. It's all common sense but it's not something we would have thought of! I always love what you film. Thank you very much from Pennsylvania and Merry Christmas
Thank you Jenny we truly appreciate that have a awesome merry Christmas and a great new year from med Mike and the team at Sweet project cars
I was excited about this video. I had to replace my ball joint 20 years ago, and I think I need a new one. My hip has been very painful...
LOL, thanks for the view Tom, have a great day. mad Mike
I thought you needed thicker grease for these so they don't cause them to flop around too easily... firm yet smooth
This is a once and done process, then, as stated in the video, you continue with your regular pm. Thanks for watching. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Have you tried AT 205 reseal? It work's great on rubber bushings...quieted all the squeaks in the front end of my Tacoma.
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great week my friend. mad Mike & team
If you dont want to uses syringe do you think you could add this S50 spray to the grease in the grease lube tube and mix it in then use it to lube your ball joints as normal?
Please follow the video to a T, there are no other alternatives, use the exact same tools, products and method, we've spent years perfecting this process. Thanks for watching and asking, have a great week.
mad Mike
Thanks my fellow American keep up the great content and happy holidays
Thanks, will do! We appreciate the view and comment Brian, hope you have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
I am a trained as a mechanic if you can put it in the grease it will fill the boot if it does not have a greaser then your process will work beautifully providing your ball joint is not already damaged
You are correct, but we do both, this method as well as the regular pm of greasing. Thank you for watching and sharing, George, have a great week my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Just found your channel, love this idea, I am going to try it.
Looking forward to binge watching 😂
Keep up the good work.
Merry Christmas 🎄
Glad you liked it Bill! Welcome to our channel, we truly appreciate the view and comment my friend, Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to you from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
If the boot is sealed, the grease should still be there. What do you do if the boot is damaged already?
Well you're going to need one of these amzn.to/3Xkmr40 And as stated in the video, this process is a once and done, then you continue with your regularly scheduled pm. Thanks for watching. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Simply awesome. Greetings from Germany
Der Thank you very much my friend have a merry Christmas and a fantastic new year from everyone at Sweet project cars
Great video and info on making your ball joints and CV joints last forever!! Sarah let me ask you what is a good reputable brand anymore to get ball joints from?
I have a 2013 Ford Mustang GT 302 ball and I’m looking to replace the control arm and ball joints but it seemed like everything I run across is garbage anymore like Moog used to be decent but now they’re straight garbage as well!!
I would like to find something that’s made for performance and will hold up and last for a while?
Thanks
The best thing you can do is head straight to your local Ford dealership parts department, it will cost a little more, but that way you will get genuine OEM parts for your Mustang. Hope this helps, it's exactly what we would do my friend. Thanks for watching and asking, have a fantastic weekend. mad Mike
Another great tip from an automotive addict !
Thanks again and wishing you and yours a fantastic Christmas from Down Under 🎄
thank you our SPC down under friend we wish you and yours a fantastic Christmas and an awesome NEW YEAR !!!
2007 Toyota Corolla s. When I turn my steering wheel left or right. I get a clicking or knocking sound one side louder . Any ideas why ? Could it be my CV axle? What could I use so I can drive it until I can afford to change it
I would definitely check your cv joints my friend. Thanks for watching, have a great day and all the best on your project Rayon. mad Mike the hammer SPC
@@SweetProjectCars was the sway bar .it had rusted water in the rubber ..
In the past I've tried a syringe to grease joints....out here on the "Left Coast" (literally), it's impossible to buy any syringe with a needle due to State law/rules & regulations, unless you have a medical RX for it. I've wound up peeling up the skirt if possible on mostly CV boots, after loosening the metal clamps & adding the thickest "Radio Shack " grey tube "Duralube/molybendium NASA used/approved wgrey tube wonder grease, & as much as I can jam in. CV joint "black grease" is great, for 1-2 years max imho, before it crusts up + centrifugal force forces it to spin & collect in the outside of the CV joints.
&sing a much thinner viscosity grease in parrallel with stock/OEM thick grease gives you 200%-500% more protection as shown in studies....I wouldn't recommend us8ng Slick 50 in all applications as 1st choice, however ANY LIGHT OIL IS BETTER THAN NOTHING!! Also, definitely try & put any needle syringe hole as close to vertical on any joint as gravity sucks & that way the injected grease will fall down from the top & coat the part before falling to the bottom. I use as much extra grease as I can fit in on every joint + after sealing any hole, "wetting" the rubber cap or joint cover with the light grease helps keep the rubber flexible & helps prevent gracking even better than 303 for rubber that has to bend & flex. I also use RS wonder grease to lubricate the top & bottom rubbing zones v. metal when using urethane bushing. Helps keep any wear or fray on the urethane down. Urethane bushings are the highest performance bushings + sometimes joints & boot covers for sport oriented ins5alls. Approximately 20% stiffer than rubber, but they creak like heck.
FYI ALL serious RC racers use a Slick 50 type light lubricating oil on their (normally) Ceramic wheel bear8ng sets that spin @ 35k rpm +. Optional Ceramic wheel/tranny RC car sets normally cost from $300-$1500 & are a must have for any serious racer. If it's good enough for tiny cars.....😊.
Minus the syringe issue there are 2 genius hacks in your video. Using flexible rubber caulking on a cracked CV joint, U joint or ? would save hundreds to $1000's as a quick fix. & "self lubricating U joints, aren't depending on heat & dirt etc. Manufacturers just build in a level of petroleum oil into the rubber & hipe it never cracks. The consumer is always responsible for installati9n costs IF the my break & you're lucky to get a free new one. Read your parts warranty!
A voice activated Go Pro is genius as well. Y haven't I seen one?
D*mn, I wish I'd thought 9f your channel before you, however your fixes & product ideas are far bey9nd merely detailing, preservation. i know you've found & made better mixes but 303 remains my staple for rubber & plastic + now tires.
*n any State I wouldn't carry filled needle syringes in your car. Out here 1 needle syringe is a misdemeanor. Police hate anything that might prick them during a search.
I don't even want to think about the liabiliity if someone broke 8nto your car & was stupid enough to inject Oil/Slick 50 into their body. Guarantee they/their Estate would figure out a way to sue you for GBH + negligence. Better to keep it in your work shop.
FYI "Slip Boots" & all other easy torn CV boot & joint f8xes have been outlawed in most Western States for years. Much more dangerous than a leaking torn CV joint boot for some reason. Keep up the great tips!
Bic first off we did not say anything about carrying around syringes inside your car and as far as getting syringes to do this job I’m sure you know somebody in another state that can get them for you and ship them to you if you cannot buy them online secondly we love 303 and this video is not about rubbery or plastic protection this is about lubricating the metal parts inside the ball joint thirdly if someone was dumb enough to carry filled syringe in their car they deserve what they have coming to them. Working on cars in any capacity takes a bit of common sense and smarts and I am sure there are a few out there they do not carry these two traits and they should stay as far away from working on a car or anything else including trying to open a loaf of bread by removing the tie wrap. Have a fantastic Christmas and a superior new year from everyone at Sweet project cars.
@@SweetProjectCars 🤣AMEN BROTHER!!! LOL!!! 👍👍
Is this a joke? I live in California, the government will literally give you needles in order to shoot up drugs. Look anywhere, you get them for free.
You can buy the syringe all day long, a little google research will go a long way.
Hey Left Coaster! Just tell your local govt that you are a homeless junkies and they’ll give you all the syringes you want!
Will that adhesive work on a ball joint boot that is ripped?..thks..jc
It sure will JC! Just let it sit for 2 or 3 days, then do the process as shown in the video. Thank you for watching and asking, hope you have a great week and all the best on your project. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Amazon to the rescue. These syringes are absolutely impossible to find anywhere locally. And anytime I asked anyone where to find one, they looked at me like I was planning on shooting meth up my arm lol.
LOL, thanks for watching and sharing, hope you have a great week my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Yeah same here. I´m having problem to buy these at local pharmacies. When I ask for 5 small syringies with thin needle they don ´t believe me that i need ´em to to lube ball joints :)
model shops and pharmacists, otherwise amazon and ebay.
Someone mentioned white grease would be better than lubricant (solvents) A tub of white grease cost $4 Would you heat this up on stove to liquefy for syringe? What temperatures will syringe begin breaking down?
Why does this trick work better than grease fitting? I understand most components no longer have grease fittings but you specifically mentioned they don't work as well?
Awesome tip... Thank you 👌
We use this amzn.to/3p9g2u6 for this once and done process. Then as stated in the video, you go ahead with your regularly scheduled pm. Thank you for watching and asking, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Great original idea & well thought out maintenance " tip" !
What was the product you use? Couldn't quite read the label. Thanks...
Thank you very much Pedro, we appreciate the view my friend, all of the products/tools we use in all of our videos can be found in the SHOW MORE of the videos description, if you can't find it let us know and we would be happy to help you. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from the team at Sweet Project Cars.
@@SweetProjectCars Thanks kindly!
Some people have ceased to have any original thoughts after age 10. sadly. Thanks for being a true individual with a generous heart!
Enjoy ! ; ruclips.net/video/07NSy3J-wbM/видео.html
@@SweetProjectCars no joking I still cannot learn WHERE your location is of the supplies can be found..please advise in detail.
Any good substitute for the grease? Unfortunately I can’t get it where I’m located that particular brand.
You need this tinyurl.com/bdf6a6ky Jake! Thank you for watching and asking, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Great technique. Would you recommend this for U-joints? I noticed the U-joints on my 4x4 have no grease nipple but I imagine I might be able to stick a needle through each of the 4 small rubber boots. I can't seem to find Slick 50 1-Lube available in Canada. Any recommended alternatives? Thanks again.
Hello Rob this works great for you joints and as far as the slick 50 in Canada your best bet is to find someone in the US that will buy a can of it for you and ship it to you hope this helps thanks Mad mike The Hammer we project cars
What type of grease do you use to fill syringe because the kind I got just foams up and will not pull into the syringe
We use this tinyurl.com/bdf6a6ky and remember, this process is a "once & done" then continue with your regularly scheduled pm. Thanks for the view, have a great day. mad Mike & team
I see you've moved on to Dr Mike now LOL. That looks like a very easy way to renew the grease that tends to get hard and stiff over time, kind of like my old body 😛
You got that right Leonard! LOL, thanks for watching my friend, it's always a pleasure to hear from you. Hope you have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
@@SweetProjectCars have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year's indeed captain. And this time you don't have to freeze your butt off ,🌞😎
Consider yourself lucky ...
If you still get stiff.
at first i thought you said “kind of like my old lady” 😂
@@SweetProjectCars is wd 40 a good lubricant? thanks
I switched to the sealed joints years ago, and they hold up better than the old greaseable ones with the zerk, they'd hold up even better using your stabby trick to lube them, I guess that's the best of both worlds.
You got it! Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great week my friend. mad Mike
Great job!! Very helpful!!!
Glad to help D A! Thank you so much for watching, we truly appreciate it, hope you have a great week my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
I’ve done this with grease for decades now but making a hole does give you a way for it to be pushed out with movement or rotations of the lubed item
Hence the use of this amzn.to/3pal9KB there is no grease pushing out doing this process as shown. Thanks for watching, have a great week. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Mike, thank you for all the great tips and the effort that you put into helping us! May happiness follow you wherever you go friend. God bless you and yours, have a Merry Christmas and a fantastic New Year( even though it feels like it’s going to be 1984 at this rate 😉 )
Our pleasure to help Nitrofreak! Thank you for watching and for the kind comment, we really appreciate it, hope you have a fantastic day (sorry for the delayed response my friend). mad Mike & team
@@SweetProjectCars better late than never🤣I appreciate your reply. You rock buddy!👍🏼👍🏼❤️
Does this work if its already making noise, or is it a preventative to getting to that point? Mine just starting making a noise when turning my wheel right or breaking it aeems.
It's meant to PREVENT your ball joints from going bad, so when you replace it, which you now may have to do, then do this process and you'll never have to replace it again.
Thank you for watching and asking, have a great day. mad Mike
Would you do this on brand new joints too or wait a while?
Hi keelan The sooner you can get it in there the better my friend thanks for asking have a merry Christmas and a great new year from Sweet project cars
ASAP!
Seems ok for joints without zerks but if it has a zerk I use paragon 3000 grease in everything. Hasn't failed me yet, and it's great in my 988 loader too
We do our regular grease jobs, this is in addition to that my friend. Thank you for watching and sharing, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
so cool, thank you. i do all the tricks you recommend from windshield wipers to tires and now this. oh and i restored my leather seats with your trick too. thanks a lot
also, would you still grease the joints normally at every interval or is the grease going to just stay in the boots?
Hello John, this doesn't change your normal pm that you will do on your vehicle, grease jobs included. Thank you for watching and asking, have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from the team at Sweet Project Cars.
@@SweetProjectCars thank you sir, appreciate you 👌
Pretty sure if you have geasable joints and actually have them greased at every oil change this wouldn't be necessary. Unfortunately, newer cars have "sealed" joints and if they aren't "sealed it's like pulling teeth to get the kids at the quick lube to do their job properly. Also, it's wise to know how many greasable joints you have so you can call them on it if they say you don't have any or only try to grease the "easy" ones.
Great little tip thanks. What about 4x4's that see a fair bit of water and mud , a little dab of silicone sealer might be needed.over the pin hole.
If you watch the video in it's entirety, you will see us use this amzn.to/3pal9KB for sealing the pin hole Shane. Thank you for watching, have a great week. mad Mike the hammer SPC
helps to have a small car too. nothing wears out much the lighter the car is. the metals dont get any harder for the big vehicles. the high weight just grinds everything like ball joints, alignment, tires, brakes, axles, wheel bearings, transmissions. specially if you drive them a bit hard like turning, accelerating and braking hard. avoid bad roads too. got a 17 year old corolla never needed a ball joint and hardly any brakes or tire changed. the tires dry rot before they wear out.
Thanks for watching and sharing, we really appreciate it my friend. Hope you have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
and you can run around with winter tires without significantly wearing them out in the summer with a small car lol
You are CORRECT! I did the same to my 2000 Elantra with some Dura Lube, and have never had to replace any of those parts since!!!
Nice! Thank you for watching and sharing Joe, hope you have a great week. mad Mike the hammer SPC
I had done this method of injecting the ball joints, tie & toe rod joints, cv joints, and hydro (spherical) bushings. The rubber boots had about a six to seven year life then would break open. I found polyurethane boot covers from E.S. to protect the rubber boots well. The work to fitting this material was difficult at times but worth it. I use Nanolub ( Nanotech Indusdrial Solutions in New Jersey )grease every where i can and have very wear in the suspension. A shame the oem's don't provide lube points to maintain these machine.
Thank you for watching and sharing Steve, hope you have a great week my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Why are you using the slick 50 instead of grease? I'm assuming that You're expecting the viscosity of the two to mix and become the perfect lubricant?
We use both, leakyjeep, as stated in the video, this is on top of your regular pm my friend. Thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
i'm not sure about this one, the joint will wear out they all do over time
Meiko trust us my friend we have been at this for over 40 years if you keep something lubed up above and beyond manufacture standards parts just do not wear out you’ll absolutely love this hack have a fantastic merry Christmas and an awesome new year from mad Mike and the entire team at Sweet project cars
I'm thinking his reasoning is that the joint will float just a bit in the liquid lube, where as grease is stiff and once wore off the metal to metal contact it won't help much unless the vehicle is used in a very warm climate where the grease becomes somewhat fluid. Being saturated in liquid lube may help as he purposes.
No thin oil will help time and wear and tear replacement and regular maintenance which only 5%of people take proper care of all there shit
I'm doing this for years to my old Civic. I'm Using chain lube spray can with syringe tip.
We only recommend this amzn.to/3p9g2u6 Thank you for watching Kapil, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Another sealer that I think will work perfectly is Flex Seal that comes like a thick paint which will seal the puncture
Please use the exact products/tools shown for success Marvin. Thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
@SweetProjectCars hey have you seen Henry's 100 percent silicone spray. I've used 5 gallon container on my rv roof. Just they now have it in a spray can and was wondering what you think about it in thanking of doing this and coating them with the Henry's but I've noticed it is nothing like flex seal it does harden and Crack but I'd like really rubber silicone and stretchy too. Just thoughts but I'm thinking of doing the 1 silicone which would help hardened grease and then the gasket maker over the hole and then coating it with the Henry's 100 silicone spray as I've used the other product before with good results on roof.
@SweetProjectCars what line are you using? I saw slick logo but couldn't make out the rest.
We only use this now tinyurl.com/bdf6a6ky then as stated in the video, you continue with your regularly sceduled pm, and just a reminder, all of the products/tools we use in our videos can be found in the .....More of the video description. Thanks for watching, have a great day. mad Mike & team
Great tip Mad Mike. As always, you never disappoint.
Thanks.
Our pleasure SPT, thank you so much for watching, hope you have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from all of us here at Sweet Project Cars.
@@SweetProjectCars Merry Christmas & Happy New Year Mad Mike. All the best in 2022.
I seen in the description that you recommended planet safe lubricant.. Which product of the planet safe lubricant would work for the ball joints?
This tinyurl.com/bdf6a6ky is all the same product, just in different packaging for different applications my friend. Thank you for watching and asking, have a great weekend. mad Mike & team
Definitely going to do this for my electric chevy bolt 2017. Make that car last before the battery end up towards the end of its life time or in 30 years I'll see how it ends up holding. Great video.
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great day. mad Mike
I have grease nipple with a small bore pipe silver soldered and chamfered to a point, the puncture is larger than a hypo but your adding grease if there’s no grease nipple on the joint.
I tried this and now my car is addicted to injecting oils! and likes hanging around under bridges! 😂😂😂😂 all jokes aside it's the best way to do it! I use to get strange looks from people because I would have a few loaded syringes in my tool box when I would go trail bike riding!
LOL, thanks for watching and sharing and making all of us laugh this morning, DJ! We really appreciate the view, and we are with you on this method, have a great week my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC
@@SweetProjectCars 😂😂😂 thanks bro!
great tip I would like to add that after the silicone dries to go back and lube those boots as old 99 iso could dryem out causing premature cracking
We use this to condition them amzn.to/2WQg0sB it works great. Thank you for watching and sharing, have a great week. mad Mike the hammer SPC
At what mileage interval do you recommend this lubrication service? We have a 2014 Ram 1500 w/ 143k, a 2014 Dodge Journey w/68k, and a 2021 Ford Edge w/2k. Thank you.
Hello Peter this is a once and done process 1 mL into each joint is all you need hope this helps have a merry Christmas and a fantastic new year from mad Mike and everyone at Sweet project cars
@@SweetProjectCars thank you very much for your insight. Great information. Merry Christmas.
Came from the shop a few months ago and the mechanics said I need new ball joints on my 2017 Ram 1500. Will this method work on my ball joints so that they will not need to be replaced? Thank you for your time.
It's meant to PREVENT your ball joints from going bad, so when you replace it, then do this process and you'll never have to replace it again. Thank you for watching and asking, have a great day. mad Mike & team
Dame this guy is turning his car into a drug addiction by giving the car a fix
LOL, thanks for watching William! Have a great day. mad Mike the hammer SPC
Hi, when I go to Amazon to find the correct syringe to use so it doesn’t get clogged up it says sorry cannot be found. Can you tell me the size that I need to buy ? thank you so much 🙌
Here you go amzn.to/4djkq0p We fixed the link as well, thanks for the heads up my friend! Have a fantastic day. mad Mike & team
Pretty neat right there!! Thanks!!
Glad you liked it Scorch! Thank you so much for watching and sharing, we truly appreciate all of our great subscribers like you, have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from the team here at Sweet Project Cars.
Good / interesting hack especially if U have none serviceable units..
If serviceable and U use good Synthetic grease annually or every 3 or 4 oil change they'll never squeak and help keep boot moist and prolong cracking as fitting is in sweet spot on top of ball joint
But the syringe is better than nothing for sure though boot area is well below actual ballpoint and the liquid will inevitably settle in boot area..
We do this method in addition to our regular pm, Chad. Thank you for watching and sharing, we really appreciate your input, have a great day my friend. mad Mike the hammer SPC