Whirlpool Cabrio Washer uL Code Troubleshooting
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- Опубликовано: 26 апр 2020
- I will admit right off the bat that this is not a particularly great video. The lighting leaves a lot to be desired. I don't make any promises that it will help you. What it does provide is how I went about dealing with the issue. The most valuable part is the comments/commentary!
If you have experienced this uL code on your clothes washer display, often preceded by shaking, quaking and banging of the unit, you know it can be maddening! Most washing machines have self-balancing capabilities. When that no longer works properly, the spin cycle will fail. Unit age, wear and tear, or neglect/abuse can contribute to this issue.
There are several approaches to troubleshooting and I show you here my approach. I am not an appliance repairman, but can typically figure out the correct route to take. I do not make any claims that my approach or instructions will work for you. Please check with the manufacturer for your specific make and model unit. This video is posted for information purposes only. Please consult with a professional. This is not intended to give professional advice; it is simply me proceeding through a chosen repair approach and demonstrating how I did so.
I show and explain how to loosen, disengage and open the lid, show the locations of the rods and springs (which I will cover in a video soon), how to remove the cover of the stator at the bottom of the unit and check the stator for cracks.
Replacement OEM or aftermarket parts and kits are readily available. A DIY repair can often save the expense of a new unit or otherwise costly repairs.
See Part 2 here: • Whirlpool Cabrio Washe...
Whirlpool Cabrio Washer uL Code Troubleshooting (Part 2) - Suspension Kit Replacement
And Part 3: • Cabrio Washer uL Code ...
Cabrio Washer uL Code Troubleshooting - Part 3 
Хобби
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Who knew a man in the dark with a washing machine could be so darned informative.
Should be easy to up my game now! I've got candles somewhere.
@@AndyMahnFL411 🤣🤣
Not sure why all the negative comments. Dude's trying to save us all a few hundred bucks here, quit 'yer bellyachin'!
Thanks very much for your defense. Admittedly, the video quality is not as good as it should be, and I did not have a light available at the time I took on the frustrating task of dealing with the washer.
@@AndyMahnFL411 It was good enough for me to check it out on my machine! While my problems weren't the ones you mentioned, it at least helped me justify getting a new machine. I'd have felt like a real idiot if I bought a brand new machine and some $20 rods would have fixed it!
@@TimGGleason I appreciate that, at least if I'm able to provide some kind of help in terms of making those types of decisions, I'll feel like my work is justified.
FACTS! I appreciate him pointing us in the right direction. Wonder what his fix wound up being?
@@AndyMahnFL411 what was your fix?
I nearly hauled off my WTW6600SG2 to the metal scrapper because it had been sending the UL code and stopping mid cycle. I actually bought the washer dryer set with the understanding that the washer was sending a UL code. The whole problem turned out to be the allen head bolt that holds the stator magnet cover in place had loosened up. I noticed this as I was inspecting the underside of the wash machine and I touched the center bolt. I quickly saw the bolt was obviously loose enough to turn without a tool. So I got a garbage disposal allen wrench and tightened it up and that solved my UL code problem. Thank You! The previous owner told me he had replaced some parts on it and he didn't want to work on it anymore. Thanks again!
Thanks for sharing your experience! It is always great when a simple fix resolves the issue. I hope this helps folks in knowing what to look for, and trying the easier fixes first.
same here - a loose stator cover. My fault because I last did the gaskets on it a few months ago.
Im glad I was doing something while listening to this
I have to agree, it was pretty terrible.
Lol dropping the wrench. I felt your pain bud
Believe me, this was all pain!
Am I terrible for laughing every time? I also laugh when I DO IT!
Thanks, this helped me fix mine by showing me how to inspect stator, take off top & get into drum - when I inspected stator I noticed a rag under drum. I used a hanger to swipe it out & voila.
Awesome, very glad this worked for you. Thanks tor sharing your results.
I like your video, it sounds like you know your stuff. I have up cde and a loud grinding sound. I took out the suspension rods cleans them and added some damping grease in the cup under the spring no luck. Removed the drum no objects hut shat was dirty and rusted. Cleaned it, tried to check stator and couldn’t get the cover off and couldn’t. So put the drum back in and it would go all the way back down. Got frustrated, sprayed with Ed and walked away. A couple hrs later a little push and Dow it went.put it together tipped over and got help getting cover off stator, it was not cracked but filthy. I cleaned it reassembled and got it tight and first it started to run quite but then got noises and ul. I also noticed when Checking stator the magnets wee rubbing on cover it left a rig. Lastly we had a floo in the basement could that effect the sensing unit? Or I’m thinking it’s the rusty shaft effecting the floatation. It is level and iniatally I took the drum out to replace the plastic part with a metal piece / per advice from a you tube video ( Ben’s repair.) the piece was larger than the shaft, waste of time and the plastic wasn’t worn any way. So help please if you have any suggestions. If it’s the bearing I think I’m giving up and going shopping.
I have one that starts to spin until UL shows.
I suspected maybe suspension rods. The only way I have of checking them is pushing down on the inner tub and letting it go. If it bounces, I figure the rods are bad. Not sure how reliable this is asone could be bad I guess.
I will check the stator on it. I was going to check to make sure all is tight there anyway.
I suspect I will find the problem down there since it does not seem to wobble and bang around like they do when the rods go bad.
Could the tub ring be bad? Does it still have fluid in it?
Repeatedly dropping the hex wrench. 10/10 relatable.
This was a barrel of monkeys (not!) 🤣 😭
Do you have to remove basin in order to see the stator? As your video seemed to skip that step or is visible after lid is removed?
Hi, sorry it was unclear. No, that is not necessary. You can access the stator if you flip the washer on its back, and access it from underneath. That's where you can get to the cover and remove remove it to view the condition of the stator.
I can vouch that that was some authentic cursing at the end. I feel your pain 💯 If I could, I would pick mine up and throw it as hard as I could…to the curb for garbage collection.
Sorry for your struggle, frustrating, no doubt. Sometimes unit replacement is simply the sweetest revenge.
Having the exact issue. Did replacing the rods/springs fix the issue? I'm getting ready to flip mine on it's back to inspect the stator.
Hi there, in this case, replacing the springs and rods did not help. Perhaps the unit was too far gone, ultimate solution was a replacement of the washer. Wishing you good luck. Check the comments, there might be some helpful advice as well from others.
It still runs rinse water after turningboff the extra rinse ..there has to be another step so it spins ONLY with 0 amount od water. How do you spin only please
so my cabrio worthless washing machine from new doesnt get rid of the water at end of wash. cant tell what its doing as it wont run with lid open how can you tell anything
What are you looking for on the visual inspection with Ross and springs?
any obvious wear and tear/degradation, misalignment, etc.
Push the tub down on the corners and if the tub bounces like a ball the suspension is no good, if the tub springs right back up then the suspension is ok
Thanks !!!
What kind of wristwatch do you wear ? Thanks
Samsung Gear Smartwatch, thanks.
UL CODE ... I replaced the hanging rods and it did nothing ... next I replaced main shaft and seal and it worked for awhile but then started leaking out the bottom ( I apparently didn't do the seal part very well ) then I re did the seal and the water leak stopped but the UL code returned off and on then got really touchy and kept tripping ... and what did I just do to fix that ... went down underneath and re tightened that shaft nut way tighter ... spayed the motor with electrical cleaner and it now spins great with NO UL code ... was washing clothes all night finally! * I used a water heater element tool to tighten that nut ... fit perfect...
Well done! Thanks for sharing your experience, hoping your unit holds up after this repair.
That was the solution to fix mine as well 2 years ago. Unfortunately it just started again so it’s time to do it again.
Hello, I have a Whirlpool Cabrio washing machine. This model was discontinued in 2013. I am have the exact problem you describe in your video. However, I am having difficulty in finding replacement parts, since this model is no longer made. Any suggestions where to order the necessary rods and springs?
Hello - Here is a link to where I found the suspension kit: amzn.to/3sywtyM
This alone unfortunately did not resolve my uL code issue. I wish you luck.
@@AndyMahnFL411 Did you ever fix the issue and if so what was it?
@@bodeine454 my solution was actually to purchase a brand new unit (alternate brand). That took all my troubles away. Others have reported variable success.
Dude, get a shop light!
Spot on! The struggle is real without one!
And an impact driver!
@@AndyMahnFL411 Just changed 4 of mine.I don’t remember making this comment.
I have not changed suspension rods on any machine much less aCabrio lately that I know of.
Strange!
Lol no light and can't hold a tool 🤣🤣😅🤣😅🤣🤣😅
Did you finally get it fixed?? Mines doing it. The diagnostic test shows error F51 which indicates motor RPS failure. I saw a video of a guy who just needed to clean it. It’s only about a $30 part. Wish me luck. It sucks that my washer is in a tiny laundry room and I’m gonna have trouble maneuvering and working.
You know, I just haven't had time recently to dedicate to it, but I am going to level out the unit. When I checked it was very unlevel and I needed to get my vise-grip pliers and level to adjust it. I'm going to try another wash load after that's done and I will report the findings. Good luck to you, particularly in the tight quarters you have to work in.
AndyMahnFL411 Well, your wife will be happy with all the laundry you’re doing.
Have you done a new video of finishing repairing this washer?
It is in progress, having replaced the suspension (rods & springs) - hope to post soon, thanks!
Does it work after spring replacement?
Outstanding video! Lots of great detail. I'm having the exact same issue you are. But when I originally inspected the stator the cracks were huge and obvious. Luckly I found someone dumping theirs for computer F1 code issues. I was able to score the washer for free and stole their stator. Also the tub was making jet engine sounds and eventually started to leak water from the seal. I replaced the bearings and seal cleaned everything but now get the UL code. Today got my suspension rods from amazon. Super quick and easy to replace. The new ones are way better. But still getting the UL code. Nothing in the washer???
Thanks for commenting, I'm beyond frustrated. I replaced the rods and springs over the weekend. I then tried a test load, and it started wobbling until the UL code appeared, the dial started flashing, and it stopped and then went through the rinse cycle all over again. What I failed to do and should have done earlier on was check the level of the machine. It was certainly out of level, I've since levelled the adjustable feet. I'm going to go ahead and give it another whirl and see.
AndyMahnFL411 any luck with your fix?
No luck, I’m going to walk away from it for a few days. Research some more forums. It doesn’t seem like an unbalancing issue. Cause I have nothing in the washer and tub isn’t unbalanced. Seems like it’s either pulling to much of a load or it thinks it is. Probably gonna check resistance of the RPS sensor. Also might pick up an amp reader to see how much the motor is pulling for AMPs. Which with out having a baseline. Maybe pointless.
@@aklostlakem8116 in that case, it may be the actual electronics, I saw something about bearings somewhere, or if it's the circuitry, it might be more expensive than it's worth. I've seen many successes using the simple, relatively simple, fixes though.
Time for a new washer. I have the same issue now after fixing the lid not closed issue. These washers are garbage.
I need some help ASAP !!
I just bought this set & the washer is making a horrible crunching noise during the wash/ agitation cycle. It sounds like its coming from the front left corner. It does NOT happen any other time.
Thank you to anyone willing to take a few moments to help.
If the washer was new when you purchased it, could there be any packing materials still inside? The tub is typically strapped or there is a foam packing ring to keep it secure while shipping.
I just did rods and springs, ran better without knocking. Went farther into the spin cycle than before but UL code came up! What’s next?
You can check the overall level of the unit, adjust the leveling feet if needed, check the stator for damage/cracks.
I cant get my hex to turn its turning the whole thing at the bottom
The biggest problem with these machines is the poor quality steel of the shaft,it rusts and will not allow the tub to float up and down anymore.
I just replace the shaft,bearings and seal in ours and the washer works better tha it ever has.
To check if that is where your problem is try lifting the tub up,it should slide up and down on the shaft with no resistance,if it binds you have problems.
Thank you for sharing your experience / recommendation. Hoping that that might help others who wind up on this page with the same problem.
@@AndyMahnFL411 The problem is that most people don't understand how these machines work,the tub has a large flotation chamber on the bottom,and a smaller hollow ring on the top.
The bottom one is controlling the flotation and calculates through a pressure sensor in the circuit board how much water has to be added for a given load of laundry.
Both rings have a small amount of liquid in them to aid in balancing.
when the water has been pumped out the tub goes into its lower position and engages with the shaft to do the spinning.[
@@alfamontydog you're absolutely right about folks not understanding the mechanics and how these machines are intended to work. The engineering can be complicated but also simple. This is gold here with you sharing your knowledge about the design and function. Thank you very much for that.
@@alfamontydog How do we find out how these machines work? Is there a RUclips channel or website we can go to or ???
@@bodeine454 Hi Jeff,
I figured out how they are supposed to work by watching a lot of youtube videos and also reading the technicians instructions I found inside the Machine.
Like I said in my previous writings, the biggest problem is the shaft that rusts and the tub seizing onto it, the tub has to be able to float up and down, you can test this by lifting it up and letting it come down, there should be no binding , the tub should slide up and down the shaft by about 1/2 ".
After I overhauled ours a year ago it has been working flawless, the wife is very happy with it, never has it gone off balance so no more UL codes.
If the stator is cracked at all, would this cause a leak from the unit also?
I do not believe that a crack in the stator alone would lead to a leak, but perhaps be a contributing factor. I will allow others to chime in on your question.
Thanks. Have a good day.
What was the fix? Seriously all that and no solution ?
Informative but missed some things because of poor lighting. It helps to have good lighting so people can follow step by step.
Completely my bad regarding the poor lighting, lesson learned.
I don't think it's the springs
Check the strator hex bolt. After replacing the bearings and rods, the bolt was the last problem.
Indeed, checking the bolt for tightness as well as checking the stator overall for cracks is the first step here.
It's a factory issue the washer drum the inside barrel isn't completely sealed there's about 5-6' of hollow area fills up with water very slowly and when it spins is still filled with water and doesn't drain so I put a bunch of holes in it cuz there's dividers within it. So I put about 3/4 to an inch big holes in it and a few smaller ones in the top part. Fixed it and BTW you'll have to remove the entire drum before you can say there's no sick stuck in it cuz before this I had two under my barrel and was all chewed up. I suggest being a better look cuz u don't want the fabric to go as far as getting clogged in the pump or in weird little box that sits in the water under the drum. If you don't listen to me you'll end up take your machine apart 12 times and giving up on it. Factory Defective Machine Issues
Wish you could've posted some pictures. Dealing with the uL popping up.
Maybe it’s something in the programming mine started doing this last month
In my opinion, once you get past it being a mechanical issue and it becomes an electronic one, it may not be worth the cost for repair.
What about F54 code? Too many codes for a family washer.
The f54 code looks to mean high current at the motor module. Best suggestion here would be to seek the help of an appliance repairman. Perhaps someone else seeing these comments might have a recommendation in that case.
I get the UL on mine. However, I just stop it, rearrange the clothes in it, restart it and let it run the UL adjustment; 9 out of 10 times it’s fine
Sounds like you're very lucky, and that your machine might be on the way out.
My stator had major cracks replace it didn't help ! Replaced rps sensor didn't help! Replacement strut springs still not fixed! Giving up !!!!!!!!!
Well that's aggravating, sorry for your experience. I ultimately decided to buy a new unit (different brand), that solved of my washing machine troubles.
Appreciate the effort, but lighting is essential for future videos.
Completely agree with you, and in retrospect it is absolutely apparent, thank you.
Why would you work or video in the DARK ?? d
WOW, thanks for your effort but it sure would be nice to SEE what it is you are talking about.
You're absolutely right, and it's a disservice that I did by not having adequate lighting. My apologies for that, I resolve to not make any more videos unless I do have adequate lighting.
I put new set of upper and lower ball bearing and new spindle. Checked stator and rods and still showing ul with no load. What the heck is wrong with this piece if crap.
Utterly aggravating! Is it sitting level? Could the suspension springs be worn?
Will check level tomorrow im to aggravated tonight I might do something I might regret tonight.
@@philwill1 I completely get it, take a few deep breaths and step away from the washing machine!
Checked its level. Next step, crowbar or tnt.
BUTTER Fingersss!!
Butter fingers lol
But good video man
😂 I certainly could have made it much better.
Not a 60 watt bulb you could have turned on to help us out?
Sorry about that, the video's not particularly great and as I mentioned in the description, the lighting was not very good.
I still don’t get it why people make videos with out proper lighting and trying to explain or how to make corrections ... and still not sure what the main problem is...🙈
I'm getting a code and it's leaking
Yours is the berring. Had to chang mine last year. It's a job to change but it fixed mine.
I’ve changed the bearings and springs in this bastard three times in five years! Washer is crap! Whirlpool did not honor their warranty 🙄…buying a new LG today🤦♂️
I predict you'll be much happier.
Dude, get a shop light!.......annoying but helpful
Completely agree!
I agree! If you’re going to go to the trouble of doing a video then make it watchable!!!!!
Thanks. Try a bit better with the lighting next time.
For sure, thanks
This video isn’t for the Cabrio as the headline states.
Indeed it is.
Yes.
Maybe we need to clear the error codes and recalibrate.
No shit Sherlock
that poor top has been taken apart more than once. jesus man, touch up paint.
@@AndyMahnFL411 Mine looked the same before I retired it. :)
@@no_handle_required I hear you, at a certain point you just got to put them out to pasture.
I guess that will fix his issue, who knew it just needed paint touch up?
More light would be awesome!!!!!! Why do a video if what you are doing can’t be seen.
Completely agree with you. I most certainly will use supplemental lighting going forward.
Too dark.
Have to agree, thank you!
The pump is probably obstructed and it isn't draining!
Wasted my time.
Please....... get a light. Next....... why would you post a video that ultimately ends in the equipment still not being repaired or diagnosed ? Thanks but it ultimately was a complete waste of time.
Regarding not having adequate lighting, you're absolutely right, my apologies for that. Second, the video is entitled troubleshooting not repair, not guaranteed repair. Based upon the commentary and the experience of others, there are several different approaches to troubleshooting this problem, some will work and some won't. It just so happened that my approach did not work. That's why I posted some follow-up videos.
No help can’t see anything in ur video 👎
Please tell me how the hell you going show somebody something in the damn dark that's common sense
You are really right; love the comment, btw!
What a waste of time.