My God, brother, thank you so much! I am so excited and grateful to you!!! I am trying to start my path as a shaper and your videos are a real treasure. Once again, thank you very much and amazing success to all of you!!!
Hey thanks dude, seriously was hard finding good condensed info about shaping/glassing when I was getting started, so it’s been a really fun challenge trying to condense and get this info out there for other people getting into it! Thanks for subscribing and sharing the stoked!
I’m glad to see people having fun even during an absolute disaster! During my years of building boards, I’ve definitely had a few oops moments. Keep it light, keep it fun. Quality comes with experience and experience comes with failures!
Well said 3rd earth, couldn’t summarize it any better than that. I think on every of my first 40 boards there was some small oops moment here or there, I’m almost out of oops moments, I’ve almost learned (the hard way…😂) all the things there are to avoid. But it’s a fun process, live and learn. It just get me more amped up for the next board wanting to make it just perfect
Heck, yeah, getting into glassing is incredibly daunting and at least when I started there was just not a good distillation of info and tips and tricks, stoked this help!
When the sand paper on the pad becomes clogged up it’s due to a lack of styrene and plain candle wax 10% mixture which is added to the resin when mixing up and applying the Hot Coat. This is prevents the sand paper from being clogged up by the resin dust, making for a good sanding job afterwards.👍
I use super low grit to sand down the bulk of the material, using 45 grit, then I sand the last little bit with 80 or 120. 45 grit leaves big scratches but removed material quickly, the just removing the last little bit with higher grit leaves it looking nice and smooth 🙌🙌
Wow so sorry for the super late reply, just saw this! No need to use special resin tint, my issue was that i partially exposed the resin to light thus initiating the reaction but then no providing enough sunlight to fully catalyze the hardening reaction. If you do it right standard resin tint works just fine! If you are adding a TON of resin tint to the point where light can’t penetrate all the way through the resin, then in that case I always add some resin catalyst
When using UV acrylic for nails some formulations have a sticky layer. We use isopropyl alcohol to remove the sticky layer after UV/LED curing. Perhaps that would work with your resin.
Interesting, I’ve heard of guys doing ding repairs using acetone to “harden up” some slightly undercured resin if it is still a little tacky, I bet that’s somehow along the same line of things. Thanks for sharing, I’m going to give it a try on the next board that comes out sticky, if it works I’ll give you a shoutout next vid
Funny to see how they struggle with the most basic resin and glass handling process steps. But this is the way of learning by doing. The most important point: they have fun while being on the way to finish the board. What I would recommend: keep your buckets clean guys! Other-way you will end up having cured crisp residues from previously used resins. This will cause a lot of problems in the future. Artsy thing does not mean, you are allowed to be easy and and not caring about cleanliness of your tools (like buckets)
Wise words Andras, one thing is I find I use a lot of acetone cleaning out buckets, Ive found its cheaper to flip over my buckets letting as much drain out as possible and just let whatever is leftover cure in place. Before the next glass job I blow out each bucket with high pressured air removing any lose thin crispy resin 🙌
I really like it, aside from our hiccups of letting sun start to kick it before we were ready… it’s pretty amazing, you just don’t have to rush to get everything tucked tight before it kicks!
Have you ever had any problems with the Meguires wax? I had this weird problem on my latest board where the epoxy just straight eroded in two finger nail sized spots... one on the deck and the other on the bottom. I noticed the problem lile two days after I buffed it. Anyway I'm wondering if the Meguires might be the culpret if it's left on the board for a prolonged period (i don't know how i would miss a spot but i'm literally lost for answers).
That’s super weird?! Once epoxy is cured it is actually somewhat chemical resistant to pretty serious chemicals whereas meguires marine wax is pretty benign. I’ve had something similar happen to me one time, I likely under mixed the epoxy resin and after hot coating I went to sand and had one small patch of resin never really cure completely. It stayed soft and just smeared when sanding. Ended up having to sand/cut the section of hot coat out and re-hot coat. I’d say that’s probably the most likely culprit for you. It’s hard to believe because I’m pretty meticulous about mixing my epoxy but it really just felt like It was a patch of only semi mixed/cured resin. Now i really make sure to not neglect mixing along the edges of the bucket and have never had a problem since. Out of curiosity what epoxy were you using, I normally use resin research and only had that uncured issue when using ghost brite epoxy.
@@JDubHannah I've been using Greenlight's Marine Grade Epoxy (slow hardener), thus far with no problems. This was only my third board, but I'm pretty meticulous about mixing as well. It takes at least 3-4 minutes to get a clear mix with this brand, but given what you said I suspect i didnt mix enough. The odd part is I didn't notice either spot in sanding. In any case I'll be switching to Resin Research Kwik Kick 👌
Man that’s super strange, I really wouldn’t expect that after such a thorough mix, but I really don’t have any other idea what it could have been, and that’s weird because you would have seen in during sanding for sure. This one is a mystery to me?!! Well hope you get her patched up without messing up the esthetics of your new board!!! Hey if you post on insta tag rock and sea, I love seeing everyone’s builds!
@@JDubHannah I suppose it could be a combination of not mixing enough, contamination, and/or overheating the resin through sanding. That said I'm calling this a fluke haha. And yeah for sure i'll give you a shout out!
I was! Very strange, haven’t ever had problems like this before. I wonder if the guys at the factory mislabeled the resin, they buy 50 gallon drums and then fill 1 gallon jugs they re-sell to some. I wonder if they mis-labeled the resin
Hey that’s a great question and I bet a bunch of people wonder the same thing. It’s fine if you get bubbles in the pot while mixing, no stress🙌. When you are laminating, all the little bubbles will get worked out while squeegeeing. When you’re mixing epoxy for the hot coat, it is a little more annoying. I quickly brush out the hot coat and then if I have any bubbles, with luck the brushing action pops them all, but you can actually quickly hit the whole board very lightly with a heat gun. The bubbles will expand with the heat and then pop. 🙌
How long did you let your hot coat sit before putting it in the sun? If you don’t give enough time for the wax to rise before putting it in the sun, you can’t really Sand it and your paper will clog like it did.
It was weird, waited about 10 min, and could see the wax layer firming on the surface, but absolutely clogged my sand paper still. Worst time I’ve had sanding! How long do you wait, I really wonder if the cold temp affected it?
This time I was intentional about keeping the door closed so shouldn’t be that, looking back in the vid I said I only kicked it 5 min or so in the sun light, the next day before sanding noticed it had that tacky stick to it so kicked it another 30 min or so in the sun but didn’t really help. I wonder if that initial kick is the most important and I just didn’t give it enough time. Going forward im just going to try catalyzing my hot coats even if using solar, so I can quickly kick them in the sun and flip for the next side but with the assurance that it will always cure nice and hard with the catalyst
That’s a super good question, I literally have some ceramic coating for cars I am going to try, I would think it would hydrophobic and make your board super low friction in the water! But I’ve never heard of anyone trying it🤷🏼♂️
Here I’m using tints from shapersupply.com and foamed.com, definitely recommend! Green light surf supply has some cool looking tints as well I’ve been wanting to try out
![Every Basic Glassing and Sanding Tool [for Making Surfboards]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wdkTX3A1cjY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Every Basic Glassing and Sanding Tool [for Making Surfboards]](/img/tr.png)
My God, brother, thank you so much! I am so excited and grateful to you!!!
I am trying to start my path as a shaper and your videos are a real treasure.
Once again, thank you very much and amazing success to all of you!!!
Hey thanks dude, seriously was hard finding good condensed info about shaping/glassing when I was getting started, so it’s been a really fun challenge trying to condense and get this info out there for other people getting into it! Thanks for subscribing and sharing the stoked!
I’m glad to see people having fun even during an absolute disaster! During my years of building boards, I’ve definitely had a few oops moments. Keep it light, keep it fun. Quality comes with experience and experience comes with failures!
Well said 3rd earth, couldn’t summarize it any better than that. I think on every of my first 40 boards there was some small oops moment here or there, I’m almost out of oops moments, I’ve almost learned (the hard way…😂) all the things there are to avoid. But it’s a fun process, live and learn. It just get me more amped up for the next board wanting to make it just perfect
So grateful you share all this knowledge man. Also your videos are super fun to watch, can’t wait for the next one 🤙🏼
Hey glad to hear it helped! Cheers and have fun glassing your next board!
This video was SOO helpful!! Thank you!
Heck, yeah, getting into glassing is incredibly daunting and at least when I started there was just not a good distillation of info and tips and tricks, stoked this help!
When the sand paper on the pad becomes clogged up it’s due to a lack of styrene and plain candle wax 10% mixture which is added to the resin when mixing up and applying the Hot Coat. This is prevents the sand paper from being clogged up by the resin dust, making for a good sanding job afterwards.👍
Love these videos, just curious what gritt sand paper do you use to sand the fix boxes open
I use super low grit to sand down the bulk of the material, using 45 grit, then I sand the last little bit with 80 or 120. 45 grit leaves big scratches but removed material quickly, the just removing the last little bit with higher grit leaves it looking nice and smooth 🙌🙌
Yeewww so fun! Learned a bunch, thanks for sharing all the details!🙌🏼
Hey the pleasure is mine, sharing the stoke!
This takes me back to my first resin swirls, especially when the UV started to set on you 😅. Something always has to go wrong🤷♂️
Seriously, but getting it figured out and trying to make the next one even better gets me fired up and stoked for the next one!!!
Buen truco, usar el baja lengua para evitar que se formenn burbujas al laminar o forrar el flat.
Right?! Super handy little tip that will save you a bunch of headache!
Great video.
Did you use a special tint paste ?
Because I saw that it doesn't go very well with UV resin, it can prevent from hardening
Wow so sorry for the super late reply, just saw this! No need to use special resin tint, my issue was that i partially exposed the resin to light thus initiating the reaction but then no providing enough sunlight to fully catalyze the hardening reaction. If you do it right standard resin tint works just fine! If you are adding a TON of resin tint to the point where light can’t penetrate all the way through the resin, then in that case I always add some resin catalyst
When using UV acrylic for nails some formulations have a sticky layer. We use isopropyl alcohol to remove the sticky layer after UV/LED curing. Perhaps that would work with your resin.
Interesting, I’ve heard of guys doing ding repairs using acetone to “harden up” some slightly undercured resin if it is still a little tacky, I bet that’s somehow along the same line of things. Thanks for sharing, I’m going to give it a try on the next board that comes out sticky, if it works I’ll give you a shoutout next vid
Funny to see how they struggle with the most basic resin and glass handling process steps.
But this is the way of learning by doing.
The most important point: they have fun while being on the way to finish the board.
What I would recommend: keep your buckets clean guys!
Other-way you will end up having cured crisp residues from previously used resins.
This will cause a lot of problems in the future.
Artsy thing does not mean, you are allowed to be easy and and not caring about cleanliness of your tools (like buckets)
Wise words Andras, one thing is I find I use a lot of acetone cleaning out buckets, Ive found its cheaper to flip over my buckets letting as much drain out as possible and just let whatever is leftover cure in place. Before the next glass job I blow out each bucket with high pressured air removing any lose thin crispy resin 🙌
How did you like the UV resin overall? Seems like a good idea for more complex glassing jobs.
I really like it, aside from our hiccups of letting sun start to kick it before we were ready… it’s pretty amazing, you just don’t have to rush to get everything tucked tight before it kicks!
Great video! Love Adams energie!
He is the best, only fun times when hanging with Evan
Have you ever had any problems with the Meguires wax? I had this weird problem on my latest board where the epoxy just straight eroded in two finger nail sized spots... one on the deck and the other on the bottom. I noticed the problem lile two days after I buffed it. Anyway I'm wondering if the Meguires might be the culpret if it's left on the board for a prolonged period (i don't know how i would miss a spot but i'm literally lost for answers).
That’s super weird?! Once epoxy is cured it is actually somewhat chemical resistant to pretty serious chemicals whereas meguires marine wax is pretty benign. I’ve had something similar happen to me one time, I likely under mixed the epoxy resin and after hot coating I went to sand and had one small patch of resin never really cure completely. It stayed soft and just smeared when sanding. Ended up having to sand/cut the section of hot coat out and re-hot coat. I’d say that’s probably the most likely culprit for you. It’s hard to believe because I’m pretty meticulous about mixing my epoxy but it really just felt like It was a patch of only semi mixed/cured resin. Now i really make sure to not neglect mixing along the edges of the bucket and have never had a problem since. Out of curiosity what epoxy were you using, I normally use resin research and only had that uncured issue when using ghost brite epoxy.
@@JDubHannah I've been using Greenlight's Marine Grade Epoxy (slow hardener), thus far with no problems. This was only my third board, but I'm pretty meticulous about mixing as well. It takes at least 3-4 minutes to get a clear mix with this brand, but given what you said I suspect i didnt mix enough. The odd part is I didn't notice either spot in sanding. In any case I'll be switching to Resin Research Kwik Kick 👌
Man that’s super strange, I really wouldn’t expect that after such a thorough mix, but I really don’t have any other idea what it could have been, and that’s weird because you would have seen in during sanding for sure. This one is a mystery to me?!! Well hope you get her patched up without messing up the esthetics of your new board!!! Hey if you post on insta tag rock and sea, I love seeing everyone’s builds!
@@JDubHannah I suppose it could be a combination of not mixing enough, contamination, and/or overheating the resin through sanding. That said I'm calling this a fluke haha. And yeah for sure i'll give you a shout out!
haha i do the cut in half waterbottle bucket as well for the small stuff😂
Use sanding resin for hot coating and it won’t gum up
I was! Very strange, haven’t ever had problems like this before. I wonder if the guys at the factory mislabeled the resin, they buy 50 gallon drums and then fill 1 gallon jugs they re-sell to some. I wonder if they mis-labeled the resin
I always get a lot of bubbles in my epoxy, regardless of how slow I'm mixing. Any tips on how to avoid bubbles?
Hey that’s a great question and I bet a bunch of people wonder the same thing. It’s fine if you get bubbles in the pot while mixing, no stress🙌.
When you are laminating, all the little bubbles will get worked out while squeegeeing. When you’re mixing epoxy for the hot coat, it is a little more annoying. I quickly brush out the hot coat and then if I have any bubbles, with luck the brushing action pops them all, but you can actually quickly hit the whole board very lightly with a heat gun. The bubbles will expand with the heat and then pop. 🙌
How long did you let your hot coat sit before putting it in the sun? If you don’t give enough time for the wax to rise before putting it in the sun, you can’t really Sand it and your paper will clog like it did.
It was weird, waited about 10 min, and could see the wax layer firming on the surface, but absolutely clogged my sand paper still. Worst time I’ve had sanding! How long do you wait, I really wonder if the cold temp affected it?
@@JDubHannah 10-15 minutes should do it. Cold weather could have been a factor. But can’t say for sure from my own experience
Hmm must have been the cold then, I need a heater!
Was thinking a little more about this. Is it possible light shined in through your door on the nose again?
This time I was intentional about keeping the door closed so shouldn’t be that, looking back in the vid I said I only kicked it 5 min or so in the sun light, the next day before sanding noticed it had that tacky stick to it so kicked it another 30 min or so in the sun but didn’t really help. I wonder if that initial kick is the most important and I just didn’t give it enough time. Going forward im just going to try catalyzing my hot coats even if using solar, so I can quickly kick them in the sun and flip for the next side but with the assurance that it will always cure nice and hard with the catalyst
Out of curiosity has anyone tried ceramic coating the bottom of a surf board?
That’s a super good question, I literally have some ceramic coating for cars I am going to try, I would think it would hydrophobic and make your board super low friction in the water! But I’ve never heard of anyone trying it🤷🏼♂️
What resin tint are u using?
Here I’m using tints from shapersupply.com and foamed.com, definitely recommend! Green light surf supply has some cool looking tints as well I’ve been wanting to try out
It would have been awesome to had left the art he made and the rest swirl
Nerds pov