Not my best glassing job but the mica powders look pretty sick in the sun(video doesn't do it justice). Has anyone else had a glass job not go as planned?
Yeah it hapenned to me few times already :))) Especialy when I started to experiment with resin Tie Dye technique :D Anyway, the board looks great! Good job! It is nice, how different approaches in a process can lead to same/simmilar results. Btw I tried the 3M spray as you and Shrednaught mentioned, but it just don't work for me..on white board it letted a bit yellowish traces and in the end I found out that the right timming when to press cloth into channels is the best which works for me. And I use Sicomin Epoxy with fast hardener (about 8mins pot life at 25 deg temperature). I usually do lam jobs at around 18 to 20 degreees so it needs about an hour of waiting patiently to play with channels :D Looking forward to some video how your awesome board surfs! :)
@@milospotuzak3251 I've wanted to try a tye dye board using acid dyes and thin fabric. Is that how you did it? For the 3m you really only need a light dusting, however every board I've used it has been tinted resin or I air brushed over top of the glassed board.
@@joeblow1942 It has not so much odor compare to polyester resin (even though the hardener for epoxy smells kinda bad), but the thing is, it is still a chemicals and there are fumes releasing while epoxy is curring which are not healthy at all. Better to be safe and wear mask with quality chemical grade filters...
@@joeblow1942 honestly I never use to wear one when glassing with epoxy but I recently I lost a family member to a lung illness caused from the construction industry. It's made me rethink safety gear, people says it's safe to not wear one but some day we might be told something else. Also putting out content even with my weird and kooky projects and techniques, I'd rather promote using safety gear then not at all. Even if it's over kill.
Sick! Need some video of this one in the water. A tip for the cutlap next time is to double or even triple ( depending on tape thickness ) the tape for the cutlap. Then you can let it cure hard and just hit it with the sander and the little ridge the doubled up tape has created gets burnt through and you just have to peel the tape up. Works a treat for doing dark colours and you can’t see the tape. Or just use a torch and shine it up from below the board and it should show the tape line 🤘
I'll get some footage up at some point of it, Ive surfed the board lots just never take the GoPro out with it haha. I had the tape doubled up plus the tape holding the paper knowing it would be hard to see. Not sure if the tape I have is too thin or the mica powder just made the resin to thick to notice it. I'll have to try the light trick next time.
The rocker is deceiving where its constant threw the board when you surf off the tail the nose is fairly out of the water. Feels slower then other boards I have. Except when you get the rails going then coming out of turns it feels fast. I really like it but its definitely not for everyone.
@@WaveWasters Doesn’t matter if it’s not for everyone‼️✌🏼 as long as it what you wanted out of the build and besides,, takes a lot of work making surfboards. I give it 2U . MY Dad is a 60’z 70’z and some early 80’z longboard guy , I’ve seen him make some super nice longboards ! ! I know how much goes into a stick ..lol. Me I’m a Bonzer rider all my boards since 80’z to current have been Bonzers . Just picked up the bumblebee..a really fun ride 🤟🏼 STAY COOL 😎 DO WHAT YA DO BRO
@@MikeRemvidas Exactly, I feel like the more I go into designs tweaked for the way I surf the more fun I have. That sounds sick, your dad must have had some pretty sick boards around. The bumble looks fun(just looked it up), what size fin are you using?
@@WaveWasters Hey , that’s what it’s about ‼️ a nice cleansing of the soul. Dad had a nice lil collection of Hamilton s , Hobie , Dick Brewers , a couple Stewart’s and they were sold to a collector in Hawaii. I kept the ACE IN THE HOLE …HAMILTON , By Dick Brewer things like 11-12 Long ! He also kept around 10 👌🏼 I always liked that Ace In The Hole as a lil boy..lol..so he gave it to me ! The Bumblebee Bonzer is 5”7 with their custom twin glassed in and the tri is 6.5 kinda like a fish would be.
Thanks! Took way to long to finish editing all the videos but hopefully I can find away to produce the board build videos faster. Do you have any projects on the go right now?
As always Matt, fun to watch you work your magic. I see a number of people asking if you’ve surfed it yet…now I’m adding to that number…lol. Cheers, John 😎🤙
I have surfed it a fair bit, my gopro died over the winter so I didn't get many clips when there were waves. Then we have had a flat spell for a long time but hopefully the swell picks up and I can get more clips for a video.
Thanks! It came out good but needed a lot of the pigment. I couldn't find much on using them in surfboards so was risky to go all in on a board the first time. Next time I use them I'll probably have scrap foam and cloth to do a tiny test to make sure I used enough of the mica powder. The top I used less over all and it's not as vibrant.
Most times I've surfed it, I get at least one person commenting on it but its usually followed but how its looks fun. Lots of Batman and Dracula comments hahaha
@@WaveWasters a mini Simmons! To me it seems like a good board and doesn't look too complicated to shape. I've just finished making my fins and they actually turned out alright! Hopefully it'll turn out ridable haha
@@itsmepreston89 I'm not an expert at it but slowly getting better. I find glass more challenging contours has really helped but it's not something I would recommend starting with.
I just used a small amount of epoxy on this one. The best finishes I've gotten have been either another thin epoxy coat after the hot coat and handsanding wet from 220 up. Or to use an acrylic sealer over top of the hot coat. A rattle clear coat that's 100% acrylic or if doing Multiple boards 100% concrete sealer and spray it on or use a roller to apply it. After a few coats, lightly wet sand with a really high grit or buff it out depending on how smooth the clear went down.
I've also sealed airbrush art work over top of hot coats this way and it's held up to years of abuse. I think I used over 4 coats on the art work but it's a pain to sand off when I repair ding on the board.
Your timing on this couldn't have been better, my supplier just got a heap of mica powders and now I can see how it works and looks(board looks awesome). A trick for the resin swirls is to use both buckets and tip a little from bucket 1 to bucket 2 and from 2 to 1 if you get what I mean. Tends to give a bit more contrast between the colours with less blending and it doesn't hurt that it slows the exotherm a bit.
I used almost half a tub each of the 1.5oz containers of mica powder. In the container it looks way my opaque than on the glass. Big thing that drew me to the mica powder is the color isn't supposed to fade like other pigments/dyes. Yeah I should have tried it that way. I've only done a hand full of swirls and everytime I've tried something different. I'm thinking next time I'll make a jig to hold to two containers so the colors are separate till they hit the glass. And have two tiny holes for the resin to come out similar to how people do pour paintings.
It should be fine but do a small test before you go for a whole board. I know black diamond mica powders say they are compatible. However any time you add an additive to resin you change the properties slightly so it's always best to do a small test with the products your going use.
Nice board. Congratulations. One question: how about the silicon brush? A time ago i thought about this option to reduce the brushes waste, but i don't know if it works finel. Maybe a wider one...
If your doing repairs/fins I think its a good tool, but the bristles are a little too soft and the size is too small for full boards. If wider ones are available its might be worth trying out. I've used this one on several projects and its still like new. I never had much luck cleaning epoxy off brushes with acetone but I've heard it works well with the bio based resin so I will have to try that out.
@@WaveWasters Thanks for the answer. I thought that the bristles are too flat, but you are right, are too soft. Anyway, time ago i read that the only two things which epoxy resin can´t bond are cooper and silicon... Greetings and sorry for my english
@@pipeno2880 I've seen bristles in different shapes so it's possible another shape might work better then what I have tried. Your English is pretty good. I know some of my viewers, English is not their first language. So I try to answer any questions, in case something is not clear in the video.
@@WaveWasters Thank you very much. I understand that some guys make the hot coat and glass coat with the squeegee or paint rollers. I see on your video that squeegee works well, even less resin (?) I'll stay tuned for a new video!
Because the fin placement in the tail I know I'll surf it most of the time. The boxes in the nose are mainly for really short fins for when I put fins in both ends. This allows you to do pop shove it's, then being able to surf the nose the same as the tail. I was going to add a leash plug to the nose for using only those boxes but opted to just use the one in the tail, I've surfed a number of boards backwards and the Lesh plug in the front doesn't get in the way too much unless your using a really short leash on a long board. If I find I like the fin placement in the nose better I can always add a plug.
If your new to working with resin I would go with the slowest hardner as it has a longer working pot life and gel time. Which makes it a lot easy to learn and do a good job. It's also has ever so slightly better properties when cured, according to their data sheets. This is my first batch of Entropy and I went with Xtra fast hardner trying to speed up making fins and repairs. Glassing a full board went well but I definitely had to move a lot quicker than the west systems slow hardner kit I was using. So far the resin seems pretty good but only time will tell.
![Surfboard Glassing [Longboard]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nf6qWFt5R7s/mqdefault.jpg)
Not my best glassing job but the mica powders look pretty sick in the sun(video doesn't do it justice). Has anyone else had a glass job not go as planned?
Yeah it hapenned to me few times already :))) Especialy when I started to experiment with resin Tie Dye technique :D Anyway, the board looks great! Good job! It is nice, how different approaches in a process can lead to same/simmilar results. Btw I tried the 3M spray as you and Shrednaught mentioned, but it just don't work for me..on white board it letted a bit yellowish traces and in the end I found out that the right timming when to press cloth into channels is the best which works for me. And I use Sicomin Epoxy with fast hardener (about 8mins pot life at 25 deg temperature). I usually do lam jobs at around 18 to 20 degreees so it needs about an hour of waiting patiently to play with channels :D Looking forward to some video how your awesome board surfs! :)
Trippy board. Thanks for sharing. Just curious…. Since epoxy has no odor, why do you wear a respirator when glassing epoxy?
@@milospotuzak3251 I've wanted to try a tye dye board using acid dyes and thin fabric. Is that how you did it?
For the 3m you really only need a light dusting, however every board I've used it has been tinted resin or I air brushed over top of the glassed board.
@@joeblow1942 It has not so much odor compare to polyester resin (even though the hardener for epoxy smells kinda bad), but the thing is, it is still a chemicals and there are fumes releasing while epoxy is curring which are not healthy at all. Better to be safe and wear mask with quality chemical grade filters...
@@joeblow1942 honestly I never use to wear one when glassing with epoxy but I recently I lost a family member to a lung illness caused from the construction industry. It's made me rethink safety gear, people says it's safe to not wear one but some day we might be told something else. Also putting out content even with my weird and kooky projects and techniques, I'd rather promote using safety gear then not at all. Even if it's over kill.
Sick! Need some video of this one in the water.
A tip for the cutlap next time is to double or even triple ( depending on tape thickness ) the tape for the cutlap. Then you can let it cure hard and just hit it with the sander and the little ridge the doubled up tape has created gets burnt through and you just have to peel the tape up. Works a treat for doing dark colours and you can’t see the tape.
Or just use a torch and shine it up from below the board and it should show the tape line 🤘
I'll get some footage up at some point of it, Ive surfed the board lots just never take the GoPro out with it haha.
I had the tape doubled up plus the tape holding the paper knowing it would be hard to see. Not sure if the tape I have is too thin or the mica powder just made the resin to thick to notice it. I'll have to try the light trick next time.
@@WaveWasters might need a spotlight to get through that mica tint haha
@@Shrednaught hahaha need a massive one. Have you tried micas before? From what I've read they shouldn't fade but I'm sure they will some.
@@WaveWasters na never used them.
Got Rocker 🤟🏼 That board is crazy mo ! Looks as if it will be loose and fast
The rocker is deceiving where its constant threw the board when you surf off the tail the nose is fairly out of the water. Feels slower then other boards I have. Except when you get the rails going then coming out of turns it feels fast. I really like it but its definitely not for everyone.
@@WaveWasters Doesn’t matter if it’s not for everyone‼️✌🏼 as long as it what you wanted out of the build and besides,, takes a lot of work making surfboards. I give it 2U . MY Dad is a 60’z 70’z and some early 80’z longboard guy , I’ve seen him make some super nice longboards ! ! I know how much goes into a stick ..lol. Me I’m a Bonzer rider all my boards since 80’z to current have been Bonzers . Just picked up the bumblebee..a really fun ride 🤟🏼 STAY COOL 😎 DO WHAT YA DO BRO
@@MikeRemvidas Exactly, I feel like the more I go into designs tweaked for the way I surf the more fun I have. That sounds sick, your dad must have had some pretty sick boards around. The bumble looks fun(just looked it up), what size fin are you using?
@@WaveWasters Hey , that’s what it’s about ‼️ a nice cleansing of the soul. Dad had a nice lil collection of Hamilton s , Hobie , Dick Brewers , a couple Stewart’s and they were sold to a collector in Hawaii. I kept the ACE IN THE HOLE …HAMILTON , By Dick Brewer things like 11-12 Long ! He also kept around 10 👌🏼 I always liked that Ace In The Hole as a lil boy..lol..so he gave it to me ! The Bumblebee Bonzer is 5”7 with their custom twin glassed in and the tri is 6.5 kinda like a fish would be.
Resin tint turned out sick! I'm making boards and fins as well and your channel has helped me a lot. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
Thanks! They never seem to go as planned but they are fun to do. That's awesome, glad your finding them helpful.
As always. Filming and editing is spot on and that board turned out great. Keep them coming. You give me motivation to step up my game
Thanks! Took way to long to finish editing all the videos but hopefully I can find away to produce the board build videos faster. Do you have any projects on the go right now?
@@WaveWasters I have taken on the task of building a proper shop. A shed on steroids so to speak. Almost done. Haven’t shaped anything since December
That sounds awesome! Proper shop would be a dream.
As always Matt, fun to watch you work your magic. I see a number of people asking if you’ve surfed it yet…now I’m adding to that number…lol. Cheers, John 😎🤙
I have surfed it a fair bit, my gopro died over the winter so I didn't get many clips when there were waves. Then we have had a flat spell for a long time but hopefully the swell picks up and I can get more clips for a video.
@@WaveWasters Hurricane season is coming + you have a new camera = some great clips coming to a screen near us! Yeewww! 😜
I was thinking about using metallic mica pigments and now i think im set on it. Your mica colors turned out great! Amazing build
Thanks! It came out good but needed a lot of the pigment. I couldn't find much on using them in surfboards so was risky to go all in on a board the first time. Next time I use them I'll probably have scrap foam and cloth to do a tiny test to make sure I used enough of the mica powder. The top I used less over all and it's not as vibrant.
That's a crazy looking board!
Most times I've surfed it, I get at least one person commenting on it but its usually followed but how its looks fun. Lots of Batman and Dracula comments hahaha
@@WaveWasters it sure does! I've been using your videos to help me shape my first board so thanks a lot by the way!
@@strwberry8223 Sick! What are you shaping?
@@WaveWasters a mini Simmons! To me it seems like a good board and doesn't look too complicated to shape. I've just finished making my fins and they actually turned out alright! Hopefully it'll turn out ridable haha
@@strwberry8223 always a fun shape to make and surf! If you have enough surface area and it floats, it should surf 😛
This is awesome! Great job! Thanks for taking the time to make these vids!
Thanks! Hope it's helpful if your working on a board
Yeah I made a couple boards last year and your fin videos were helpful. This glassing technique was good to watch for the next ones. !
@@itsmepreston89 I'm not an expert at it but slowly getting better. I find glass more challenging contours has really helped but it's not something I would recommend starting with.
Amazing work man!! Thanks!!!
Thanks Felipe!
U my friend are a genius
haha I don't know about that, but thanks
What’s the secret sauce you use to gloss it at the end? Only 1 hotcoat but looks as good as with gloss coat. Great video
I just used a small amount of epoxy on this one. The best finishes I've gotten have been either another thin epoxy coat after the hot coat and handsanding wet from 220 up. Or to use an acrylic sealer over top of the hot coat. A rattle clear coat that's 100% acrylic or if doing Multiple boards 100% concrete sealer and spray it on or use a roller to apply it. After a few coats, lightly wet sand with a really high grit or buff it out depending on how smooth the clear went down.
I've also sealed airbrush art work over top of hot coats this way and it's held up to years of abuse. I think I used over 4 coats on the art work but it's a pain to sand off when I repair ding on the board.
Your timing on this couldn't have been better, my supplier just got a heap of mica powders and now I can see how it works and looks(board looks awesome).
A trick for the resin swirls is to use both buckets and tip a little from bucket 1 to bucket 2 and from 2 to 1 if you get what I mean. Tends to give a bit more contrast between the colours with less blending and it doesn't hurt that it slows the exotherm a bit.
I used almost half a tub each of the 1.5oz containers of mica powder. In the container it looks way my opaque than on the glass. Big thing that drew me to the mica powder is the color isn't supposed to fade like other pigments/dyes.
Yeah I should have tried it that way. I've only done a hand full of swirls and everytime I've tried something different. I'm thinking next time I'll make a jig to hold to two containers so the colors are separate till they hit the glass. And have two tiny holes for the resin to come out similar to how people do pour paintings.
Sick board !
Its been a fun board to surf!
Hey dude!
Just a quick question
Can i use mica powder with polyester laminating resin?
Thanks
🤙🏼
It should be fine but do a small test before you go for a whole board. I know black diamond mica powders say they are compatible. However any time you add an additive to resin you change the properties slightly so it's always best to do a small test with the products your going use.
Is it Batman's surfboard ? 😆
I get that a lot😆
Would like to see it being ridden
Working on it :), the flat spells since I've posted this have been rough but clips are coming.
Nice board. Congratulations. One question: how about the silicon brush? A time ago i thought about this option to reduce the brushes waste, but i don't know if it works finel. Maybe a wider one...
If your doing repairs/fins I think its a good tool, but the bristles are a little too soft and the size is too small for full boards. If wider ones are available its might be worth trying out. I've used this one on several projects and its still like new. I never had much luck cleaning epoxy off brushes with acetone but I've heard it works well with the bio based resin so I will have to try that out.
@@WaveWasters Thanks for the answer. I thought that the bristles are too flat, but you are right, are too soft. Anyway, time ago i read that the only two things which epoxy resin can´t bond are cooper and silicon... Greetings and sorry for my english
@@pipeno2880 I've seen bristles in different shapes so it's possible another shape might work better then what I have tried. Your English is pretty good. I know some of my viewers, English is not their first language. So I try to answer any questions, in case something is not clear in the video.
@@WaveWasters Thank you very much. I understand that some guys make the hot coat and glass coat with the squeegee or paint rollers. I see on your video that squeegee works well, even less resin (?) I'll stay tuned for a new video!
Why only the one leash plug but fins on both ends 🤦
Because the fin placement in the tail I know I'll surf it most of the time. The boxes in the nose are mainly for really short fins for when I put fins in both ends. This allows you to do pop shove it's, then being able to surf the nose the same as the tail. I was going to add a leash plug to the nose for using only those boxes but opted to just use the one in the tail, I've surfed a number of boards backwards and the Lesh plug in the front doesn't get in the way too much unless your using a really short leash on a long board. If I find I like the fin placement in the nose better I can always add a plug.
woohooooo!
Yeeeww!!!🏄
What hardener speed do you recommend to use from entropy?
If your new to working with resin I would go with the slowest hardner as it has a longer working pot life and gel time. Which makes it a lot easy to learn and do a good job. It's also has ever so slightly better properties when cured, according to their data sheets. This is my first batch of Entropy and I went with Xtra fast hardner trying to speed up making fins and repairs. Glassing a full board went well but I definitely had to move a lot quicker than the west systems slow hardner kit I was using. So far the resin seems pretty good but only time will tell.
It's really sick to see this whole process
Thanks Chris! It's a long process when you have to film the build too