How to plaster an outside wall
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- Опубликовано: 9 авг 2019
- Plastering an external wall using sand and cement. Showing how to plaster or render an outside wall in a step by step guide. All of the topics are covered such as laying on the render scratch coat, applying the top coat render, using a straight edge to get it flat and floating the wall smooth. I hope this video helps others when they are looking at rendering a wall!
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I dont understand all the negative comments about lack of speed. If im paying for a rendering job the price will have been agreed beforehand, so it wont matter how long it takes. The only important thing is that the job is done right. No one is ever going to remember how long the job took in years to come but if the job is poorly done it will always be obvious. Great video.
Thanks John, very true words, thankyou :)
I agree 💯
Any negativity should be ignored. youre doing gods work posting these videos and this information
Thanks, I really appreciate the comment and thanks for watching!
this help me loads with my garden project, thank you very much you've been a massive help 👍
No problem at all, thanks for watching 😃
Thank you for so understable and clear tutorial video! Great work!
VladimirS38 thankyou so much for your comment :)
Very good and I like the no panic easy going attitude 👏🎥👍
Thanks 😄
Looks great 👍🏼
michael gough thank you :)
very useful video, thanks for sharing mate
Thanks :)
Thank you very much for the very helpful video and it came out great!!! 👏👏👏😉😉😉
Thanks! Nice to see people doing their own jobs from it :)
Ok mate, top video quick question what said is best to use? I am a diyer & I want to render my block wall which has been bare for years. Do I put a waterproofer in scratch coat & top & how long do I need to leave scratch before I top coat it. Do I just spray scratch down with water to stop suction & what ratio mix do I use. Sorry for all the questions but I have no experience 🙈 I try my best but someone as good as you with a little advice I am sure I can get it to a good standard no where near your wall got no chance that's a cracking job 100%
bcfc red army you can use building sand, there is also plastering sand but either is fine. Make sure you pressure wash the wall off first if it’s been bare for a while to get anything like moss off it. In my experience I only use waterproofer if it’s a wall that is dry on the back of it such as a house wall. If it’s a garden wall then I’d just use plasticiser (Feb) on both coats. But that’s just my way of doing it. Plasticiser on scratch cost and waterproofer with a retarder in it on top coat will give you more time before it goes off. You can top coat if you’ve scratched the next day at this time of year. Wet the wall before you scratch and the same for top coat. If it’s warm then give it a good soaking. 4:1 sand and cement for scratch and 5:1 for top coat. Top coat should never be stronger than scratch. No problem for all the questions and thanks for watching!
@@SamDaviesBuilder Thank you for the swift reply mate very kind of you. All the very best 👍
Looked really good finish and interesting to hear others views. I agree everyone has different ways. I always work right to left when rendering or undercoat plastering and left to right when applying finish. I would say you are rendering the wall as using a sand n cement mortar. Not outside plastering. Great job and hope others learnt from you sharing your way of rendering a wall. 👍
graeme maguire thanks Graeme! Yea I love checking out the ways other people do things and their techniques
I've always worked right to left when rendering so your working into the material and not away from it
very precise and beautifull
Thanks! 😄😄
Very nice, I usually like to rule off the scratch coat too, makes top coat easier, (for me) looks as if you got it nice and flat anyway, agree with you everyone does things differently in the trade. Great video.
Rob Benn Thankyou for the comment!
Helps with the key also if you rule off the scratch coat and leave it rough.Stops all the sagging you sometimes get from a smooth trowel scratch coat.
ash wednesday good tip that is!
@@SamDaviesBuilder Just spreading the knowledge.lol
Excellent job thanks for the video it did help
Thanks!
Good finish m8, never known anyone to put thick scratch coat on and rule it though especially on good wall, not necessary but each to own also we go 3/1scratch and 4/1 topcoat but like I said very job 👍
mick skinner cheers Mick, appreciate the positive comment!
That is brilliant 👍
Thanks Kevin 😄
Top job mate
VizslaVlog thanks 😄
Tell you the truth I kinda admire your enthusiasm, I am a plasterer I'm 39 , my dad my all my uncles ware and are plasterers , I started going with my dad when was 11 , put up my first trowelful when was 13 , one mistake your makeing really , the blocks made nowadays aren't full of holes and rough as fk like I first seen , these walls should be studded, they look very non porus, as in very smooth , weather it's boundary walls of house I always scud ,2:1 sand cement no water proofing or plasticiser, then your base and finish ,this was okay 20 years ago but the way blocks have gone , you need to scud , just my oppinion as a real tradesman , but fair play to you , nice
I understand what you’re saying, our blocks are pretty coarse though. I’ve never seen anyone do skudding here in West Wales. Are you in Ireland as I’ve seen loads of people talk about skudding in comments when it’s work in Ireland 🇮🇪
Yeah, definitely no need for what you’re suggesting. Waste of time and money.
Very helpful thanks
Great work.
Thankyou
Best and most to the point video I've seen online and I've watched a shit load
megagreenbastard1 thanks for the comment, I really appreciate feedback like this!
Nice job!
Thankyou 😀🙏
Nice job and thanks, I’ll try the right to left approached mentioned below as I’m a righty.
Pat Horn thanks :)
Plastering seems a very labour intensive process. I am glad that I like exposed brick wall. Maybe a half brick and half render is a good combination.
Never go full stupid
Very nice👍🏼 Please, for concrete wall plastering, how many square meters of surface area will a 50kg bag of cement cover on average (outside and inside)?
Right to left if your a right hander only left to right when your skimming.
Ben Sharpe I’ll be honest I go either way, jobs always show up places where you have to do different things
I’ve heard that what is the reason for it?I work left to right no matter what I’m doing
@@ollielake7421 when your skimming your not trying to put loads on your pulling away from it all the time so if your a right hander you go left to right. When your floating you want to build up the gear on the wall so your always working into it, so you start on the right so your swinging into it all the time.
Ben Sharpe makes sense I’ll try it thanks for the quick reply
@Daniel Johnson good for you mate
Good video mate , not 20 mins of bollox and product placement . Good job
laurence I appreciate the comment, thanks :)
Lee Casper I agree 12.5 is ample. Also you should never let your scratch comb touch the brick or block behind as the whole idea to to not only create a key for the top coat but to give you even suction especially when on old bricks or walls consisting of all sorts. Good video though.
David Hammonds good point about the scratching. Thanks for the comment :)
You make it look so easy, a mate let me try it once..I think I did a good job of plastering the floor 😅
kevin smith thanks! I remember when I first did it, I was terrible!
Great job Sam, very well explained, can't see why left to right or right to left makes difference? you can either do it or you can't!!
Jerry Moore thanks! No I never knew there was a direction to go!
It depends really,if you are right handed you generally want to pull the material to your right ,away from yourself ,you will often hear a plasterer say ,I pulled that room in so much time,
Pushing is harder than pulling ✌️🧐
Great video 👍👍 True professional.
355PH thanks 😃😃
Great job looks really good....I'm going to attempt rendering a brick wall this weekend, the wall I'm rendering is the back end of a terraced and the brickwork is 125 years old, crumbly and dusty too, would you pva it first? What would you recommend. Cheers
Jon Willock I wouldn’t use PVA. It’s water soluble so doesn’t work well outdoors. You can buy something like ‘rendagrip’ basically a paintable solution which enables the render to adhere to the surface. A good builders merchants will stock it. Just make sure any loose/dusty bits are removed first. Ideally pressure wash it. Check out my channel for another plastering video too!
May I ask how and if you seal the plaster down where the pavement stones are and how you fill the gap between the plaster and the stones once they are in their place again? thanks for the awesome tutorial man.
Thanks. You wouldn’t seal it as such. Water will always work it’s way down. You’d just cut the pavement stones to fit up to the wall and then brush kiln dried sand in the narrow gap
Grey video, thabks! How deep did you score the scratch coat, all the way through to the block?
Brian18741 thanks! Not quite all the way through to the block, about 3-5mm into the scratch roughly.
Great video and no bs. I don't have the tool your using to rule off the wall. What's the best alternative thing to use. I just have a small area to do and want to keep cost down. Would a length of timber do the job for rule off??
Timber would be ok just make sure it’s straight. A 1200mm length timber would be best if it’s a small area
@@SamDaviesBuilder great stuff thanks for reply
nice
Thanks!
artist at work
bslx thankyou 😄😄
Excellent video, really clear. Sometimes the sponge finish on an external wall has a slightly stippled effect. Is this done with a wet or damp sponge? Thanks.
John Healy thanks! Just a damp sponge. I wring it out so water isn’t dripping out of it. It can be sponged in a downward sweeping motion or in a circular motion. And don’t catch it too late or it won’t sponge nicely, just after you’ve floated it is the best time
@@SamDaviesBuilder Thanks Sam. I'll give it a go :) Is there any particular type of sponge that works best?
John Healy just a normal car wash sponge is fine. Make sure the sponge is flat and not mis shapen or it will not give an even finish
That's a nap finish your thinking off.
You can do a nap Finnish using a car sponge or a raised nap using the same type of sponge that is used for skimming. Raised nap is harder to do but looks better when done correctly.
a professional at work 👏 is the mix consistency similar to a bricklaying mix?
Thankyou 😃. Consistency would be a bit wetter than a bricklaying mix
Nagy bolondja!
Is it critical to do 2 coats? I'm going to do my concrete block planters in my garden, will I get away with 1 coat?
If the blockwork is pretty good you’ll be fine with one coat
Great Job man. Question; why did u use a sponge to wipe the wall after???
Thanks! I use a sponge to get any float lines out of the wall
Thank you this is absolutely brilliant, could you give an approximate time line for the job? I know you said that the weather will affect things but it does help with your calculation.
Thankyou! I’d say 3 hours in the summertime and 5 hours in the wintertime!
Whats the minimum wait time before applying the top coat?
I’d scratch one day and could top coat the next. Middle of winter you may have to wait a day longer though!
Hi I have been asked to re-render an external wall as it's got cracks in it etc, but behind the wall is the ground/road/basement effectively below the water table. How should I approach it, I presume there's no proper drainage behind the wall. It's always going to be wet, should I just render as usual or try and waterproof it, but how? thanks.
Personally I would paint on a thin slurry of sbr + cement mixer together then do a very thin scratch (make sure the wall has had a good hack off/wash off first to get rid of any old render) Then do your top coat as normal. I wouldn’t use waterproofer just Feb. If you want to cover the cracks then you could press mesh into the scratch coat.
Love the vids mate but being a right handed spread shouldn't you be starting at the opposite end?
Cheers! I’m not actually sure on that one, I’ve probably got into bad habits with which direction I should go 🤣
Hi, how long do you wait to use the scratcher on the first coat and can you tell me how many bags of sand and cement was used for this wall. What’s the size of this wall. I have a 35sq foot stone wall to plaster over . Great job, thanks .
Minny Michael when it’s warm like it is at the moment then I’d wait 10 minutes until I scratch it. In the cold you’d wait a little longer. Basically if you start scratching and see anything move then it’s a bit too wet. You don’t want to leave it go off too much either so it’s a fine balance. With regards to quantities I was doing other walls on that job so I haven’t got a figure I’m sorry.
What is the minimum waiting time for the second render coat so water spray can be applied , is their a maximum time limit eg. If after scratching , it was left to dry out for days or longer would second coat still adhere successfully , thank you
Erik Kopsala you can go on the scratch the next day as long as it’s not been too cold. Don’t worry if it’s weeks or months later, as long as the wall is still clean and then wet it according to weather conditions
If you are Plastering over a stone wall you need to scud it before you scratch it. 2 sand 1 cement with a bit of sbr for good measure. This mix needs to be very sloppy and is applied using a dasher ( Harling trowel). If the stone is uneven, you can rule off the scratch coat to make it easier for yourself when it comes time to put on the top coat
Really nice job , how much would a wall that size cost ?
I’m watching from australia and here that job would be about 28 thousand dollars. And it would be about 4mm thick. Applied by an apprentice.
Great video. I want it to be a light grey do you have any pointers?
Thankyou. This render would dry a light grey after a few days. You can buy dyes to go in the mix but it’s not the easiest to get a consistent colour. You can also buy coloured bagged render which may be something to consider as you’ll get the exact colour you want then
Did you use any sort of PVA or grip on the blocks before scratch coat?
Does it just stick there no problem?
terry flynn the blocks had a good texture and the wetting of the wall provides suction. If you have a smooth surface I wouldn’t recommend PVA outdoors as it’s water soluble. I’d go for sbr and cement or ‘rendagrip’ which is a textured slurry you’d paint on before your scratch coat
@@SamDaviesBuilder we have thistlebond here in Ireland.I am not sure what it is but its recommended by my builder providers so i will try that on smooth brick
Thanks for reply
I always Sbr slurry before applying the scratch coat, it's ball ache but you know its never coming off the wall.
SBR is great stuff I agree. Apart from getting it off your hands at the end!
Does the final coat require Lime at all or does the plasterciser/waterproofer do the job on its own?
LAZER GAMING I don’t use lime and as you say let the plasticiser or waterproofer do the job. I only use waterproofer if it’s a wall where the rear side of it would be dry such as a shed or house wall. Some people do use lime in their mixes though!
Use lime in the Finnish coat especially if you want a nap Finnish.. lime helps prevent hair line cracks also..
when rendering outside of the house do you put the waterproofer in the scratchcoat or topcoat or both ,,cheers
I would just use waterproofer in the top coat. Use feb (plasticiser) in the scratch. That is from my experience but other plasterers may be different.
I am Indian
All congratulations job 👏
Thankyou so much 😀😀
Over trowled the first coat. Quick brings the moisture to the surface and prevents maximum suction. Also didn't use a featheredge on the first coat 🤔🤔
Cheers for the tips Shaun. I don’t use a feather edge on the first coat as I’m happy with how flat I put it on. Always grateful of advice as you never stop learning!
Nice video. Looks like concrete bricks.
Do you use any additive in your mortar?
Ronald Martens yea it’s over concrete blocks. I use mortar plasticiser which adds air to the mix
Sam Davies the Australian builders association banned plasticer because they wanted to promote the lime industry.
I stopped using lime altogether when I came across an industrial chemist who stated we considered lime to be no good. I thought okay. So I worked with them and also used their plaster no lime. It's the best thing I ever did. It's more expensive. Does your work crack after a while once it's dried a few months time seeing as it's not drying?
Ronald Martens interesting! What does the plaster you use consist of? Have only experienced cracking from no expansion joints! Does your plaster crack?
Hi Sam good vid. How much sand and cement is needed roughly for a 5 sq m wall? I’ll be using an 18mm stop bead. Thanks for your time. Tomas
Hi Tomas, thanks! You'd roughly need 250kg sand and 3 bags cement. Thats allowing for a bit of sand and cement spare as theres nothing worse than running out halfway through!
Good man. 👍🏻
Inside plastering outside rendering.
Tell me about it
Surely it makes sense to rule off the base so you're not having to fuck around filling the top coat with a load of material ?
Craig Devonport Id only rule the base off if I wasn’t happy with how flat the wall was to start. I know my scratch goes on evenly so I only rule the top coat. That’s not to say you shouldn’t rule the base it’s just my way of doing it
Je ne comprends pas Pourquoi avoir enduit un mur qui était plus joli avec ses briques apparentes.
Would you leave a gap at the bottom to allow expansion and for moisture to seep out?
No need for that in my opinion
@@SamDaviesBuilder Great - thanks for your reply! Great videos too, thank you very much.
@@callumstewart86 Thanks :)
Yes put a drain there otherwise the garden will fill up with water and plaster will fall of wall
I like your shoe, anyways! :-)
Amazing Construction Channel thanks 😃
Please explain the plasticizer? Do you have a link to the product? How much did you use? Thanks.
Jan Nielsen the plasticiser is an air entrainer for the mix. It replaces the use of lime. You can’t use too much or there will be too much air in the mix.
rover.ebay.co.uk/rover/0/0/99?loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fp%2F1406279262%3Fiid%3D293347555138 that’s the product I’m using
Also adding too much plastisiser will weaken the mortar. The use of plastisiser makes mortar more workable, easier to use and work with. You can use hydrated lime which is really good
Hi. How much plastering sand and cement? Also have you add any plastisizer in the mix and bonding agent in the questioned surface? Thanks.
Dimitris Kaloupis just plasticiser in the mix which is 4 parts sand and 1 cement for scratch and 5 parts sand and 1 cement for top coat. No bonding agent on the surface - if it’s smooth surface you would need some sort of bonding agent. I only had to wet the wall for suction
@@SamDaviesBuilder You are a star, i will give it a go however if i will fed up by doing it,drop me your details and get that job here mate...
Dimitris Kaloupis I think Wales is a bit far from you I’m afraid 🤣
@@SamDaviesBuilder oh lord...Southampton...
Beautiful job 🎉 What is a plasticiser and how much do you add?😊
Thankyou 😃. A plasticiser basically adds air to the mix to make it workable - you won’t have a mix usable without some form of plasticiser. It depends on what brand plasticiser and how good quality your sand and cement is as to how much you’d add to a mix. Say for a standard mixer full you could put two capfuls of plasticiser in on the stuff I use.
@@SamDaviesBuilder I'm in the US so trying to adapt this "recipe" to what we have available. I LOVE what you did. Have a wall that's been spalting for a decade! Do I want to look for any specific quality of portland cement / sand? Was gonna pick up whatever Home Depot has.
@@stormbytes it’s hard for me in the uk to know what brands of cement you have over there but try and buy a premium quality cement suitable for bricklaying/rendering. With the sand they do a plastering sand over here so see if there’s something like that in home depot, just make sure the sand isn’t too coarse.
Here is a link to help you understand plasticiser:
www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Plasticiser
You may be able to measure your wall and input measurements on an online calculator to tell you the quantities you need. There’s loads of free online construction calculators
Hope this helps!
@@SamDaviesBuilder What's your thoughts on adding fairy liquid (Dawn dish soap as the americans say) as a plasticiser?
@@epiphgd4302 it works but I wouldn’t recommend it. Proper plasticiser is cheap enough and ensures no issues
Does anybody else put mesh in the scratch coat ? I do with k rend but going back to using sand and cement as had problems with drying lines with k rend and sick of it
Bob Burn I suppose it depends on the background you’re going onto as to if mesh will be any benefit or not
Would this work with concrete fence panels? The rectangular slabs sort.
Sorry, it wouldn’t work in that situation
@@SamDaviesBuilder nice1 Sam
Sam, do you ever use lime instead of plasticizer in the base coat ?
No, plasticiser is so easy to use that I always use that. That's not to say you can't use lime though, its just the way I do it
When you say plasticiser is that waterproofer ?
Ciaran Duffy no, but waterproofer will act as a plasticiser too. I only tend to use a waterproofer when it’s onto a cavity wall
Thought the scratching must be wave like, not horizontal.
Leonard Erasmus horizontal has always worked for me. I have seen it done wavy too. There is always lots of different ways in construction!
Yes as crooked as possible is the right way to reduce cracking..
@@SamDaviesBuilder wavey lines gives more key so less like to crack also use lime in mix more flexible also let it dry more before floatin or u can spray a light haze on it with a spray bottle if it has gone abit
bloggs692413 thanks for the comment. I’ve used lime before and have experienced fine cracking on the surface. With regards to a spray bottle yes that’s a good technique but I’d rather catch it earlier than rescue it with water. My horizontal scratching has always provided a good key but as I always say with building there is many methods to jobs so it’s interesting to see other people’s techniques.
Absolutely, just by using either horizontal or vertical lines can add shrinkage and cracking in the opposite direction. Best using big wave movement which minimises shinkage and improves the key. Good video though, well done
I have a wall only 5 blocks high in harden but long 16m is this something to tackle rendering myself i am fairly handy just concerned about that final finish not being spot on. Near impossible to get a plasterer (decent one)
What you could always do is split the wall down into smaller sections by using a stop bead or some baton on the wall. You may always see the join but if the wall is 16m long you'll end up with a crack somewhere due to expansion anyway (expansion joints every 6m generally on block walls)
@@SamDaviesBuilder what are your thoughts on this single coat render products
mickinoz2005 I haven’t used any before - I do plan to in the future though!
I used to stick some newspaper on the wall to draw out the water
MegaCuprar yea I’ve seen that being done in the winter. The weather is a nightmare for plastering as it’s never a constant factor and you always have to alter things to suit!
I'm a painter by trade so have never plastered before and I'm looking into getting some block walls done for my back garden, after watching this I'm actually gonna have a go at plastering them as I'd love to be able to do something else for a change. Very informative and easy to follow. Thanks 👍
fran faherty thanks :). Great to see the video being useful!
Do you have to do a whole area in 1 go, I only ask because after this video I'm tempted to try, but it's quite a long wall
Shane Scott you can always break the wall down into sections using stop beads
@@SamDaviesBuilder will the beads show on the wall or will I be able to blend 1 section into another
Put 2 stop beads back to back with a 10mm gap. After it’s plastered, run some mastic into the gap. If the wall is very long this is good practice as it will help to avoid cracks in the future
Luke The Skeleton Boi totally agree with you there, good tip!
Do i have first have to wait when i made the scratch wall untill its dry?
Yea. You have to wait until the next day before you put your top coat on. I have made another detailed video on scratch coat only on my page if you want to check it out
@@SamDaviesBuilder
Thx. One day ill wil try this.
After plastering can i give it a Colour?
Do i need a special paint.
Nice weekend!
Grz
Ben form the Netherlands
binola yes you can paint but ensure it is fully dry, I like to leave it at least two weeks, longer in colder temperatures. Use a good quality paint and ideally water down the first coat to ensure good adhesion. Thanks for watching!
Hi Sam would ya get away without a scratch coat if I skudded the wall
Johnny sorry I don’t have experience with skudding so I can’t help you there. I know a lot of people commenting on here seem to have an idea with skudding
👍👍👍👍
Thanks 😃
going to try and render a wall,what length and width of trowel should i get,cheers
I would get an 11" trowel if you are just starting out
@@SamDaviesBuilder thanks
thanks
Hi mate, looks good. Did you use sharp or soft sand for the render?
Amer H I used building sand. Sand quality is so different in different parts of the country it’s difficult to say how my building sand might compare to yours. Your local merchant may even do plastering sand to buy
I don't like to see plaster going on without a scudding.. but that's the way I learned to do it
dj hago I’m not actually sure what scudding means? Always open to seeing other way things are done
Mix sharp sand and cement at 2 to 1 really wet with no plastisizer... and throw it on with a scudding spoon for first coat .. leave it a day then scratch it.
It keys to the wall alot better
dj hago ah I have seen that on a lot of Irish house build accounts on Instagram. I wondered what it was. I see it done before they clad a house in stonework too
@@SamDaviesBuilder youd be ran of an Irish site without scudding your walls before scratch coat.
Did you put pva before scratch coat
eagle gummy bears no. As long as the wall is clean and you damp it down for suction then it will be fine. If it’s a smooth surface you are putting a scratch onto then an sbr and cement slurry should be painted on just before you scratch. Block work just needs wetting
I never understood how you make a wall plaster plumb by just troweling the plaster on it. In central Europe where I live we start off with putting plumb lines of plaster, let it dry and then we throw in the plaster in between, after that we use a straight piece of wood or a metal lath to smooth it out by draging it on the guides (plumb lines of plaster).
Interesting to see different methods in different countries. I suppose here as long as your wall is flat and true, then your scratch is straight edged along with your top coat then you will be pretty plumb! You can’t go wrong with plumb lines of plaster I suppose though.
@@SamDaviesBuilder That's how we do it in Czechia ruclips.net/video/crRFOBGuvWM/видео.html
@@stavebnifirmapikr9129 thanks for that. Such an interesting process! I’m surprised you don’t use beads and it’s true craftsmanship the way you do it! What’s your mix?
1 lime 2 cement 5 sand for interiors and for exteriors 2 cement to 4 sand
@@stavebnifirmapikr9129 2 cement is interesting, much stronger than our mixes. 4 sand to 1 cement is a pretty standard mix here
Is the top coat wet before rubbing down?
Yea but not too wet, if theres moisture coming to surface or moving on the wall it’s too wet
Did you coat the wall with SBR or put it in the mix ? Or is it not needed ?
Hi Tony, not needed on a wall like this in my opinion. If you had a smooth surface like say engineering bricks you’d mix SBR with cement then paint it on the wall prior to doing a thing scratch. There’s enough grip on blockwork just to damp the wall and scratch
Mix with cement powder to make like a slurry and then paint it on the wall or just out of the tub ?
@@tonyhilton7097 mix with neat powdered cement like a slurry and paint it on. Make sure you apply the scratch coat while it’s still tacky so you’ll have to work in sections. Make sure your scratch is thin too or it will slide off the sbr
Got it 👍👍👍
@@SamDaviesBuilder is 24 hrs between coats ok mate ?
Do you ever use lime with your mix?
I don’t personally but I know lots of plasterers who do
Yeah I can do this Sam lol
Jimmytwogunz after doing your patio you can do anything!
What kind of cement do you use???
I use ‘Blue Circle’ general purpose cement if that’s what you mean
"aim for 12,5 mm thickness"
Sure :D
I know, it usually ends up being thicker!
@@SamDaviesBuilder I do 3mm each
@@thebotaneer840 what product are you using for 3mm?!
@@SamDaviesBuilder K-Rend
Knowing my luck...... the devil is in the detail! At a guess I'd say its 4:1 and 5:1 by volume, but then you might mean by weight? What brand names of plasticizer do you use - it might be hard to source here ( Philippine Islands) . Will a squirt of dishwashing liquid do in a pinch, I know it probably is not recommended, but I used it in the mortar to lay the bricks I 'll want to plaster - non load bearing just some raised 3 ' and 4 ' long garden beds along a masonry wall.
Yea it’s by volume! The brand name I use is ‘Feb’ but most brands will be fine. It’s not recommended to use dishwashing liquid but if you really had to then it’s better than nothing. The key thing is not using too much as you can weaken the mix. Just make sure it’s a good mix
@@SamDaviesBuilder Thanks Sam - I had a look at the febaddmix specs, 'Bostick Addmix Easy' is as close as I could find here in PH and they have related addmixes for block motar and block fill that I'll also try on my next more ambitious project - an above ground pool in rat-trap bond for my kids. The 9.5 inch thick pool wall is more for aesthetics and easy of getting in and out, but more expensive than a ferrocement job. Be interested to see a video or here your comments on plastering for ponds and pools to make them waterproof. Cheers, Devon
@@devoncarter9062 rat trap bond is an interesting one! Can’t say I’ve ever built in that bond but I have heard of it. I’m afraid I haven’t got any experience in waterproofing pools but I know you can get some decent cement based tanking solutions
@@SamDaviesBuilder The simple solution I found after numerous failed experiments with silicone and other leak stoppers was 'neat cement'. I found some info online about the fracking oil industry in the US using it to seal oil wells with perhaps hundreds of atmosphere of water pressure, so I took a sucessful punt that my DIY pool sand filter using a repurposed 50 litre chloride drum, ough to be able to survive a few atmospheres. So I cut off the treads to make sure I got a good amount of neat cement in place for a water-tight seal and capped the plastic lid I used in ferrocement. In a larger one I'm planning to build , I'll use the neat cement with a couple of luggage straps for the reinforcement to make the filter reusable after a year or two when the sand needs replacement or recleaning. Getting one's facts straight from experts like yourself is preferrable to more dead ends than Burke and Wills. Cheers, Devon
Good job but it's easy to do a good job on such a small area
Tough 2 lie thanks. Yea the test is if you can do it on a big gable end!!
@@SamDaviesBuilder no disrespect intended, it's not feasible to do a tutorial on a big table I understand.
@@SamDaviesBuilder sorry gable
None taken, I dread the thought of doing a big area in this weather!!
What is your mixing ratio?
4:1 (4 sand 1 cement) scratch coat and then 5:1 top coat
Boss job that lad how much to do my wall
Cheers! What size is the wall?
It's like 4 foot high and aba 20 feet long lad
Just a front garden wall
No plastic mesh, to avoid cracks along the block lines? Nice content though...really like your calm and unfussy style.
No, I don’t use it, but I would consider using it certainly on common cracking areas such as above doors and below/above windows. Thanks for the compliment on the content 😃😃
@@SamDaviesBuilder Thanks Sam......so refreshing to see building videos without the 'banging' music!
@@mikesmith1485 yes some of the music on building videos is a bit full on 🤣
Wet the wall first?
I did 😃
Is your top coat 4-1 too
Top coat always weaker than scratch so 5:1 we do it
4:1 what does this mean?
4 sand 1 cement. There is a video about mixing on my channel
This timing work
No scud coat that is most important key before scratch.
Rodney Gilbert hi Rodney, no scudding around here. Where abouts are you? Seems to be a popular technique in Ireland
First you scoud it then scrat then finish
For both scratch and top coat, once applied how long do you have to wait until you can rule it off ? Also can you explain your sand and cement mix consistently?
These are the only 2 things I have trouble getting right. Great Vid by the way :-)
Basically when you rule off you want to make sure it is dry enough not to move it about on the wall. It’s a fine balance as you don’t want to leave it too dry before you rule off. I can’t give a time on how long as it depends on weather conditions for how long it will take.
Here is a link to my video on how to mix:
ruclips.net/video/8dxcp2GyQ4Y/видео.html
Thanks for watching too :)
First scud the wall show blocks won't show through
Right to left on sand and cement and your mix looks like way to much plaz
We don’t scud the wall in these areas. Always interesting to see different methods in different areas. Definitely not too much plasticiser, I just make a good mix. I’m a big hater of too much plasticiser!
I always seem to leave sponge marks no matter what I try. Very frustrating.
Hi Colin, what sort of sponge are you using? Fine texture works best. Also make sure it’s wringed out and damp, if water is dripping off the sponge it’s too wet to use on the wall.
@@SamDaviesBuilder yellow rectangular sponge that people wash their cars with. Perhaps I should try another.
@@Rureal42 those sponges usually do the trick! Are you doing a circular motion with the sponge?
@@SamDaviesBuilder yes circular.
Do you wet the wall first if it’s dry
Yes you must wet the wall if it’s dry to help suction and stop it going off to quick. How much you wet it depends on the time of year too. You can’t wet it too much in the winter or it will take ages to go off
@@SamDaviesBuilder appreciate the reply sam. Tough find a block layer these days here in Ireland. My wife sent me on a 3 day apprenticeship and told me to do it. 😅 looks like I’ll be plastering too.
@@davidday866 I think trades such as block layers and plasterers are becoming harder and harder to find! Good luck doing it yourself, the key to it all is getting a good mix and you you’ll be fine!
@@davidday866 there’s a few more plastering videos on my page and also one about getting a good mix
That the gospel today I made a mix. I was so excited for it. The blocks levelled with a little wiggle. I learned the mother gets wetter as it mixes and slow down the mixer. 5 meters at a time. I’ve got about 40 meters to go 6 block high. I’ll get it before I’m done. I’m a steel fabricator by trade. Got to make railings and sliding gates. Shoul be all sorted by 2024 🤞😳
Well now I'm a plaster
And is it right