Have to say, that is one of the best videos, and best results (considering the state that 'wall' was in. You're clearly fantastic at your job. Proper master tradesmen, they are thin on the ground..
Really good work but here in the states my competitors would charge $300 for a wall like that and just one shot a thick coat of quick set and texture it out. Very frustrating here to do work properly.
I have a very poor Tyrolean wall that needs a lot of knocking off and patching. Can I apply Tyrolean over the already painted surface. I’ll use your tender and primer for the patches but I’m worried about going onto the original surface when I blend. I love your videos and I’ve learned plastering through you and your kindness to help people like me. Thanks very much
Hi - I have a repair to do on the front of the bay. The horizontal is fine but the angled bell went all green and the concrete paint went soft / permeable. I have scrapped off about 4mm of render some of which was damp so obviously moisture was getting through. Should I remove the lot or can I just patch over the existing render? Its a strip the width of the bay by about 9 inches on an angle? Do I need mesh to give it strength considering what has happened?
Great chanel bud watched most of ur tutorials 1 question im from Ireland and the most common sand and cement finnish we have is a nap finish the a napping sponge iv looked 4 this on ur videos and have cn u do it??
Nice job! Try turning the mesh the opposite way it’s rolled mate! It won’t curl away from the wall-and is easier to bed in ! Just a tip that I do which until I was told never even occurred to me👌
Hi Blaine I’m going to try my hand at plastering one wall in my bathroom.I’ve ripped the tiles off obviously half the plaster has come off with it so I’m going to take it down to the brick.have you got a link to a video that takes you through all the stages.also has a small window with a deep recess.
Alright pal, when we are using hp12 to sort out poor walls like this, we’ll blue grit it, coat & mesh and once it’s gone off, we will pin the scrim coat with the big plastic polish and pins to secure it. Just a thought👍👍 always good to see someone else work 😂👍
I wish i knew how to post pictures on here of the wall i have to render in the next couple of weeks, we have hacked off old render that had cracks appearing but soon realised the render was actually as good as you can get and was a nightmare to remove that then only left 1 outcome for the cracks, the brickwork had large cracks all over it, there was no mortar in the joints, every service was being brought outside via that wall and the plumbers had butchered the walls and filled the holes around the pipes with pieces of brick. Not to mention the lack of mortar had caused some bricks to push towardds the cavity as we were hacking off. We came off the job and got a bricky in to make the wall right for rendering but have no idea what we will return to but i can honestly say working around 5 yes 5 windows and door will actually seem like a walk in the park no doubt.
There doesn’t tend to be DPC or DPM used on garden walls so where the render ends doesn’t really matter. Any moisture can still travel up the wall and cause the render to blow. Good question though mate 👍🏼 I’m sure a lot of people are thinking that same, hope this helps
I would of fixed (plug and screwed) EML, Galvanised Expanded Metal Lath or Galvanised External/Internal Rib Lath sheets to the wall, then applied two coats of a sand-cement-lime mix, using 6 parts plastering sand, 1 part cement, 1 part lime.
Thank you mate. I haven't actually - I tried years ago but my old camera broke so I lost all the footage. Got curved ceiling vids but no bays I'm afraid!
@@PlasteringForBeginners Thanks for the reply, I really trust your advice and have done a outside wall from your tips, but have no idea how you would rule something curved :-)
Complete nonsense to knock the wall down or build one next to it, if you want it 100% straight just use polystyrene sheets or hard insulation sheets and then you can render it. Other alternative is decorative or real stone tiles or composite cladding, but why knock stable wall, doesn't make sense
Both options would be expensive. You can’t use these sheets on walls with 40mm dips and humps- it wouldn’t work. You’d have to render the wall flat first, apply the insulation and then render it afterwards (with render that’s 3x more expensive than sand cement). As for the tiles, that’s the same. You’d have to render the wall first (like I did, which is a lot longer than usual due to the state of the wall), then spend the time to tile/ grout it afterwards. Except your material costs for this decorative wall tile comes to £30+ a SQM…that’s not including the costs to render it beforehand!! And then you’d still have the big gap between wall and building. The builder was there building pier in the video. He could have just throw a quick block walk in front and saved a lot of trouble leading to a flatter, more appealing wall. It would have saved time, costs on materials and Labour 👍 That’s just my opinion pal - I appreciate your view
You have definitely done a brilliant job on this - I hope your customer appreciates your talents. Is it possible to render over this type of wall using the same method you used here drive.google.com/file/d/1dV7QcKEHKduYTSY0y-Zm3faVfnGeQVDG/view?usp=sharing
Have to say, that is one of the best videos, and best results (considering the state that 'wall' was in. You're clearly fantastic at your job. Proper master tradesmen, they are thin on the ground..
I’ve been following you for years, you helped me learn how to plaster (DIY level any way lol) and now how to render walls. Thank you!
Nice job, you have done exactly what was asked and smashed it! I’d be over the moon with that “tidy up” job
Thanks mate 👍
Weber, sponsor this man!! I'm sure more people are buying thanks to Blaine 👍🏽
Haha I wish...But I'll be trying Fassa MS20 next I think so lets see how that one goes!
Great video, I have a similar situation in the garden. Can I apply the pregrit when the wall is slightly damp after powerhosing the previous day?
Really good work but here in the states my competitors would charge $300 for a wall like that and just one shot a thick coat of quick set and texture it out. Very frustrating here to do work properly.
Good effort Blaine 👍.
Spectacular work man. Turned out great. Painted up nice with a few brackets and planters and it could set off the brick wall lovely.
Thank you very much!
I have a very poor Tyrolean wall that needs a lot of knocking off and patching. Can I apply Tyrolean over the already painted surface. I’ll use your tender and primer for the patches but I’m worried about going onto the original surface when I blend. I love your videos and I’ve learned plastering through you and your kindness to help people like me. Thanks very much
You make it look all so easy 👍
Cheers mate
That came out perfect, I have a 50m perimeter wall looking as rough as that one did, might steal your technique!
That’s what it’s here for mate! Good luck 🤞
Smooth as silk. Well done. Need a wall doing, can you sort it?
Hi - I have a repair to do on the front of the bay. The horizontal is fine but the angled bell went all green and the concrete paint went soft / permeable. I have scrapped off about 4mm of render some of which was damp so obviously moisture was getting through. Should I remove the lot or can I just patch over the existing render? Its a strip the width of the bay by about 9 inches on an angle? Do I need mesh to give it strength considering what has happened?
What a turn around blaine.... Love it ❤️
Thanks mate!!
I need to re-plaster a wall that has acrylic paint on it. What would you use to get a good key please?
What does the mesh do and if I'm rendering a similar wall do I need to use it?
Great chanel bud watched most of ur tutorials 1 question im from Ireland and the most common sand and cement finnish we have is a nap finish the a napping sponge iv looked 4 this on ur videos and have cn u do it??
Would you use Weber OCR to patch a fairly large repair on a blown cement rendered wall?
Nice job! Try turning the mesh the opposite way it’s rolled mate! It won’t curl away from the wall-and is easier to bed in ! Just a tip that I do which until I was told never even occurred to me👌
Good idea...cheers pal! Thanks for watching!!
Hi Blaine will you be doing a follow up video about using the roller to apply skimcoat plaster?
That was a great topic!
Brilliant
Hi Blaine I’m going to try my hand at plastering one wall in my bathroom.I’ve ripped the tiles off obviously half the plaster has come off with it so I’m going to take it down to the brick.have you got a link to a video that takes you through all the stages.also has a small window with a deep recess.
Weber looks lovely to use, what's the coverage per bag?
It's about 2 meter per bag
@@plasteringschool cheers mate
Alright pal, when we are using hp12 to sort out poor walls like this, we’ll blue grit it, coat & mesh and once it’s gone off, we will pin the scrim coat with the big plastic polish and pins to secure it. Just a thought👍👍 always good to see someone else work 😂👍
Plugs not polish 😂😂😂
Thanks for the suggestion mate - really appreciate that. I'll give it a go - thank you my friend and all the best!
Hoya mate have you dont any of the coloured one coat renders? Can they be scratched?
Great work bud i think youve convinced me
Hello sausage 🤣 what did you use for the scratch coat? Was it sand and cement and then the weber ocr for the final coat?
I think I'll try that weber stuff
Is this webber ocr a breathable product like lime render?
Great video, Could you do more on the power float, tips, technics, timing's etc 👍
Absolutely!
I wish i knew how to post pictures on here of the wall i have to render in the next couple of weeks, we have hacked off old render that had cracks appearing but soon realised the render was actually as good as you can get and was a nightmare to remove that then only left 1 outcome for the cracks, the brickwork had large cracks all over it, there was no mortar in the joints, every service was being brought outside via that wall and the plumbers had butchered the walls and filled the holes around the pipes with pieces of brick. Not to mention the lack of mortar had caused some bricks to push towardds the cavity as we were hacking off. We came off the job and got a bricky in to make the wall right for rendering but have no idea what we will return to but i can honestly say working around 5 yes 5 windows and door will actually seem like a walk in the park no doubt.
That’s a rustic finish ❤
Love it pal 👍🏻 speed skim crew 👍🏻
👍👍
See extensions Dya bead same day and all with the Weber or bead day prior
thank you
Hi Blaine, I notice you render to the floor without any drip/bellcast beads on garden walls, doesn't this cause any issues?
There doesn’t tend to be DPC or DPM used on garden walls so where the render ends doesn’t really matter. Any moisture can still travel up the wall and cause the render to blow. Good question though mate 👍🏼 I’m sure a lot of people are thinking that same, hope this helps
how many bags you use?
Do you have a link for the scabbler blade?
I would of fixed (plug and screwed) EML, Galvanised Expanded Metal Lath or Galvanised External/Internal Rib Lath sheets to the wall, then applied two coats of a sand-cement-lime mix, using 6 parts plastering sand, 1 part cement, 1 part lime.
Really good job with what you had to work with. Have you done any vids on how to do rounded surfaces like a bay window?
Thank you mate. I haven't actually - I tried years ago but my old camera broke so I lost all the footage. Got curved ceiling vids but no bays I'm afraid!
@@PlasteringForBeginners Thanks for the reply, I really trust your advice and have done a outside wall from your tips, but have no idea how you would rule something curved :-)
Excelente trabajo saludos 👌🏻 👍
👍👍👍
Turn the mesh over so it’s not pulling away from wall. Its finding the right bagged gear that suits yourself. Some are a nightmare hawk and trowel.
Thanks for that and yeah. Product selection can be a nightmare ha! Thank you for watching...all the best
Love these vids mate.
Thank you so much. Really appreciate that pal!
It's not falling down, so what's the issue?
Hi m8 what attachement did you use on your power float
The plastic float (Diamond Float) attachment mate. It's the only one I use
@@PlasteringForBeginners thank you 👍
I think that primer only allowes for 25 mm of render tho
duna reyt job theeya pal
👍👍👍
Get yourself a plastic draper hawk man. You’ll never look back. 10€on Amazon.
👌
👍👍👍
This ain't got nothing on old stone walls
Why even bother with using mesh?
Always use mesh in my rendering work
Only 1 b in weber
🤣🤣🤣
Complete nonsense to knock the wall down or build one next to it, if you want it 100% straight just use polystyrene sheets or hard insulation sheets and then you can render it. Other alternative is decorative or real stone tiles or composite cladding, but why knock stable wall, doesn't make sense
Both options would be expensive. You can’t use these sheets on walls with 40mm dips and humps- it wouldn’t work. You’d have to render the wall flat first, apply the insulation and then render it afterwards (with render that’s 3x more expensive than sand cement).
As for the tiles, that’s the same. You’d have to render the wall first (like I did, which is a lot longer than usual due to the state of the wall), then spend the time to tile/ grout it afterwards. Except your material costs for this decorative wall tile comes to £30+ a SQM…that’s not including the costs to render it beforehand!!
And then you’d still have the big gap between wall and building. The builder was there building pier in the video. He could have just throw a quick block walk in front and saved a lot of trouble leading to a flatter, more appealing wall. It would have saved time, costs on materials and Labour 👍
That’s just my opinion pal - I appreciate your view
You have definitely done a brilliant job on this - I hope your customer appreciates your talents. Is it possible to render over this type of wall using the same method you used here drive.google.com/file/d/1dV7QcKEHKduYTSY0y-Zm3faVfnGeQVDG/view?usp=sharing