Wow Ty, Seems like your videos always come at the right time for me. I am currently trying to design a tool wall/ cubby wall for hand tools and power tools. great work
I've got two rolling carts that are the same height but the rest are a little shorter. I plan on getting a new table saw in the next few months and will be making a nice outfeed/assembly table for it then.
Mike West Surface height and the type of floor. I've started getting more anti-fatigue mats because after half a day in the shop my feet are killing me. Grant is indeed my cousin.
I only had one criticism Ty and you corrected me by mentioning the screw into the cleat. nice job it looks really sturdy and it definitely belongs in your shop
Thanks Opa! After using this thing for a few months, there's no way I could not mention putting in a screw. I've knocked them off more than a couples times before getting around to that. :)
good stuff ty ive been wantting to try something new for clamp storage for sometime now. my collection has more parallel and bar clamps now b4 was just quick and F style.thanks for sharing that
This is a great storage solution! I may end up having to take my spike clamp rack and switching to the conduit as I get more parallel clamps to handle the extra weight
One of the main reasons I love the french cleat system. A lot of people talk about how they don't like it because the holders may fall off, but like you, once I find the place for it, I put a screw in it and call it good. Moving it is as simple as taking out a screw!
I assume you're talking about the impact driver while putting screws in? If so that's just the noise it makes as it repeatedly impacts the screw instead of applying continuous force on it. It helps to prevent stripping and generally does a better job on inserting screws. (I use a drill for drilling holes and an impact driver for inserting screws.)
Thanks for your answer, I didn't know that it's an impact driver. I am usually using a "normal" drill with either a careful finger on the trigger or the built-in clutch. ;-)
It's the Pro Tapered Countersink Bit made by Rockler. I've been using it for a couple years now and really like it. I should probably invest in a couple more sizes. goo.gl/6FSeJg
I'm thinking of cutting a 2x6 down to 5.5x5.5" squares for the pipes, and attaching a 5.5"W x 2"H x 3/4"T cleat to each one. Think what would work? Is that what you mean in the article when you say you'd make the 5" tall if you were doing it again? I was thinking either that or having a 5"x5" backer of 1/2" plywood with a 3/4" cleat on the back and a 5" section of 2x4 on the front for the pipes. The 1/2" plywood would give some stability and also be easier to screw through to lock in place.
Yup, if I had a 2x6 in my garage at the time that's what I probably would have done. I'd still put a single screw in after you "finalize" your layout to prevent you from knocking any off when they are empty.
I have considered adding a little epoxy in the bottom but decided against it since they are 1-1/2-inches deep. The only time I've had a conduit come out is when I knock the entire cleat off of the wall but now that I've finalized my current layout, I'll be securing them in place with a screw so don't think that will be an issue.
A couple of tricks on French cleats Make the module cover two cleats OR place a spacer on the bottom of the module so that it rests against the wall under the cleat. This will prevent the slip off issue. Additionally, if you make the spacer uniform in distance from the bottom of the cleat, you can then slide a lock between the cleat and the spacer to prevent the module from coming off if its bumped
Was thinking right away about the cleats falling off when returning the clamps home and then you stated your solution....awesome
Yea, before screwing them in place I knocked them off more than a few times. Mostly when I was trying to move the ones up top without a step stool.
Very Nice Build Ty. I like that a lot and you did a very nice job on it. Thank you for sharing..
Wow Ty, Seems like your videos always come at the right time for me. I am currently trying to design a tool wall/ cubby wall for hand tools and power tools. great work
Speaking of a tool wall, I really need to start putting tools on mine!
Hey Ty, are all of your work surfaces and table saw the same height?
I've got two rolling carts that are the same height but the rest are a little shorter. I plan on getting a new table saw in the next few months and will be making a nice outfeed/assembly table for it then.
Awesome man, i didnt realize how important proper horizontal surface height was until i got unisaw. #soarback. Is grant t your cousin?
Mike West Surface height and the type of floor. I've started getting more anti-fatigue mats because after half a day in the shop my feet are killing me.
Grant is indeed my cousin.
I have been trying to come up with a clamp rack design. With your design I believe I've found it. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome! Can't wait to see what kind of improvements you make!
Like the setup. When I get more than.... 8 clamps, I'll have to look at a way to hang them too 😊
love the lay out. I keep putting off mine. I really like the way you made this project.
Thanks Ronnie!
Looks good! I made a roll-around rack for mine, and now it's full. Clamp rack and lumber storage coming up.
I only had one criticism Ty and you corrected me by mentioning the screw into the cleat. nice job it looks really sturdy and it definitely belongs in your shop
Thanks Opa! After using this thing for a few months, there's no way I could not mention putting in a screw. I've knocked them off more than a couples times before getting around to that. :)
Nice job Ty!
Nice one Ty, thanks for sharing your learnings!
Thanks Zack!
good stuff ty ive been wantting to try something new for clamp storage for sometime now. my collection has more parallel and bar clamps now b4 was just quick and F style.thanks for sharing that
Thanks Joe! My collection kept changing too and I have quite a few different sizes and styles of clamps.
This is a great storage solution! I may end up having to take my spike clamp rack and switching to the conduit as I get more parallel clamps to handle the extra weight
Thanks Matt! I really like the ability to move everything around and quickly make new holders for that next clamp I get.
One of the main reasons I love the french cleat system. A lot of people talk about how they don't like it because the holders may fall off, but like you, once I find the place for it, I put a screw in it and call it good. Moving it is as simple as taking out a screw!
great design Ty. it's similar to mine but I like the smaller holders you made better
Thanks David!
Nice idea - clamp storage is a pain.
Looks nice. I like it.
What's going on with that power drill? Why is it making that noise?
I assume you're talking about the impact driver while putting screws in? If so that's just the noise it makes as it repeatedly impacts the screw instead of applying continuous force on it. It helps to prevent stripping and generally does a better job on inserting screws. (I use a drill for drilling holes and an impact driver for inserting screws.)
Thanks for your answer, I didn't know that it's an impact driver. I am usually using a "normal" drill with either a careful finger on the trigger or the built-in clutch. ;-)
You should look into getting an impact driver. They aren't really more expensive than a drill and you won't regret it.
I am very intrigued by the countersink that you use, I just saw it used on you circle cutting jig, as well. I'd love to know who manufacturers it.
It's the Pro Tapered Countersink Bit made by Rockler. I've been using it for a couple years now and really like it. I should probably invest in a couple more sizes.
goo.gl/6FSeJg
I'm thinking of cutting a 2x6 down to 5.5x5.5" squares for the pipes, and attaching a 5.5"W x 2"H x 3/4"T cleat to each one. Think what would work? Is that what you mean in the article when you say you'd make the 5" tall if you were doing it again?
I was thinking either that or having a 5"x5" backer of 1/2" plywood with a 3/4" cleat on the back and a 5" section of 2x4 on the front for the pipes. The 1/2" plywood would give some stability and also be easier to screw through to lock in place.
Yup, if I had a 2x6 in my garage at the time that's what I probably would have done. I'd still put a single screw in after you "finalize" your layout to prevent you from knocking any off when they are empty.
would you recommend adding a little epoxy or ca glue to hold the conduits in place?
I have considered adding a little epoxy in the bottom but decided against it since they are 1-1/2-inches deep. The only time I've had a conduit come out is when I knock the entire cleat off of the wall but now that I've finalized my current layout, I'll be securing them in place with a screw so don't think that will be an issue.
Great job, looks great!
A couple of tricks on French cleats
Make the module cover two cleats OR place a spacer on the bottom of the module so that it rests against the wall under the cleat. This will prevent the slip off issue.
Additionally, if you make the spacer uniform in distance from the bottom of the cleat, you can then slide a lock between the cleat and the spacer to prevent the module from coming off if its bumped
What drill bit did you use to drill your countersink? Looked cool. Nice video.
It's a tapered countersink bit with an adjustable countersink.
amzn.to/2wKluH3