How To Test and Fix A Sinking Brake Pedal
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Feeling the brake pedal sink very slightly is perfectly okay. However, when the brake pedal sinks quite a bit, you may have a larger problem to deal with. I'll show how you can quickly test and measure the movement of the brake pedal and what's involved with the repair.
► Subscribe: / carsntoys
►► Tools and Supplies:
Safety Glasses: amzn.to/2BQKZ05
Flare Wrench: amzn.to/3lCj4T0
Dot 3 Brake Fluid: amzn.to/3dogrl1
►►► Brake Repair Playlist:
• Brake Repair
►►► Our most helpful videos (One million + playlist): • 1 Million Views Playlist
Note:
Any attempt to repair automotive parts and/or systems carries risk of personal injury. Always adhere and follow safe practices when working on vehicles. Such as, safety glasses, jack stands, no loose clothing, etc. No guarantee or warranty is implied. Use the information in this video at your own risk.
Publication, reproduction or distribution of this film is strictly prohibited.
Carsntoys
/ carsntoys
#sinkingbrake #dot3brakefluid
Remember folks. Always wear flip flops when working on cars
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Bro that’s literally me
Dad always worked on flip flops on his car, i don't lol i hate getting hurt
😂😂
I do all the time🤣
So if I changed my master break cylinder and my break booster and bled the breaks completely. And the reservoir remains the same level of break fluid. I still literally have absolutely no breaks. It goes straight to the floor. What could possibly be wrong or what did I do wrong? I'm at a loss
I've done breaks before and I don't understand what is going on
Same!
Someone please help us out..
@@luciamacias7310 so I actually figured it out. You need to get an actual HAND break pump. You can purchase it on Amazon. When youre changing everything and making it brand new again, there is still going to be air in the lines no matter how many times you bleed the breaks and primed the master cylinder. I promise you, buy the hand pump that connects straight to the lines and just continue to pump until you're seeing no air and then pour the break fluid back into the reservoir. I was rather surprised how much air still came out of my back break lines. Hope this helps
My daughter has a 2006 chevy Cobalt I pretty sure it's a 2liter she has no visible leak and I bought brake pads or shoes or whatever goes on it for it her husband put them on I'm hoping he put everything on right but still she has no brake pedal no breaks help I'm getting ready to buy this car from her pretty cheap and I'm really thinking I'm hoping that maybe they didn't if it takes brake shoes instead of just pads or whatever that maybe her husband didn't put them on correctly or it could only be a master cylinder or brake booster right how do I know there's no paddle. When you start it when you pump it it's just it goes to the floor they did bleed them and I just don't know what else to say about it other than what do I do can you please help
Low-key you sound like a cool relax laid back version of Chris Fixx😂😂😂
I've bleed the air, replaced the booster, the master and the pads, .................... still spongey!! :( any other solutions?
Check brake lines for bulging? Old, soft lines can bulge.
Same here, plus the reservoir cap and gasket. Flushed old brake out! Still going to the floor
What about cars with abs and getting air out that maybe trapped in the abs unit, like after changing the master cylinder? I have heard you need diagnostic equipment to communicate to the abs unit for bleeding. Or is air in the abs unit unlikely?
Place piece of wood between seat and pedal. Loosen bleeder screw, then pedal drops and piece of wood falls. Then you are really screwed.
i changed out my brake booster and when pressing the brake pedal. its take a while to stop but apply more pressure it'll stop. NOTE brake booster had already been diagnosed and signs of failure. now idk if there is air in the brake system or a bad master cylinder?
Same
When you pump it how much di you pump it does it get hard like a brake when you bleed it the old fashion way
Very thorough explanation ! I've used every method you mentioned while working alone bleeding a brake system. All are good methods...( and anyways sometimes having "help" can make the job a lot harder ) heheh ! Wear safety glasses too ! I once got a chemical burn on my eye when I got sprayed with brake fluid ! ( I was careless) lol. Peace
Oh man eye injuries are the worse. Thanks for the feedback.
You are so kind. Thank you so much for being so thorough and informative. Really the most informative car videos I've seen and very helpful for my situation with this exact car.
Replaced Master Cylinder. Still doing it. WTF??? EDIT Replaced twice. Same shit. Think it's the booster.
Where does the 3/8" figure come from? I'm reading the master cylinder section of my factory manual and don't see something like this there. How did you come up with this test?
Harbor freight sells a bleeder that hooks to an air hose, and sucks it out with the push of a button... I like the zip tie idea. Also check the vacuum at the brake booster to see if it hold vacuum.
After you are done you can get buff with the dumbbell 💪
lol..you better believe it! Get to the Choppa
So essentially a sinking pedal is down to a faulty or worn MC? Video way too long to get to the point.
I have a 99 Tahoe that has solid brake when the engine is off , but when the motor is running the pedal goes halfway to the floor then slowly sinks .
Possibly abs
Why did my mechanic untide my break padel to remove my bmw e46 booster
Why does my 94 Explorer breaks pump up when car not running
You explained things well .Thank you .Subscribed 👍
My 560sl mercedes pedal sinks but not all the time.. It does it frequently but not always, replaced master cylinder but problem still exists, what could be wrong
Did you find out what it was? Sound like the ABS
I ended up replacing my master cylinder a second time because of the sinking pedal on my 67 mustang with stock front disc brakes that are 4 piston caliper type after verifying that I thoroughly bled the system on the first replacement. this leads me to another question for a problem I took the car through a winding mountain road for 5 miles down hill approximately I had to stop for traffic brakes worked great until I was about to 1 mph I could tell the front discs were applying pressure but weren't holding and the rear drums brought me to a stop my first thought was fade but another mile down the road they worked normal again
Hey.thanks you do much Almoghty God Bless 🙏 you you save me time and money .
This video was perfect, you were so explanatory on every step.Great detail and description. Thanks for all.
Happy to help.
would it keep a 5 speed from going into gear?
I gave you a like because you use flip flops ❤❤❤❤
The master cylinder doesn't live anywhere. Do not take this person seriously!
Since english is your second language, I'll explain a figure of speech. So in english we have figures of speech. It's where you use a word or phrase in a different way from its usual meaning to create a mental picture or create an effect. So like the brake cylinder lives here, it doesn't actually there, he's using a figure of speech to point out where it's placed. If you ever travel to a english speaking country, you'll hear a lot of them.
Your video is very easy to follow and helped me feel more at ease with performing the work myself. It is very concise and informative. Thank you. Hope you continue to produce similar. I must concur, this is one of the most concise and informative videos i have watched on youtube.
Couldn't it be the booster as well???
I replaced the pads and pins on mine but in order to brake when u press on it ,it feels like a grind feeling and noise and then if u hit harder it brakes .The brake pedal feels hard but it will not brake properly.What should I check?
So you only have to bleed one caliper to get the air out?
No, he said you need to bleed at each wheel. You start at the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way around.
I really don’t understand what you are comparing. Both you have engine running and on drive while hand brake off and saying if it’s off by 3/8” then the master cylinder is bad. What are you doing different to see the if it’s 3/8”? I have watched many times and still don’t understand what you are actually doing.
Hi, is there a way to raise the accelerator pedal to make heel toe easier?
Probably if you add a spacer. May be quite tricky on a modern vehicle.
My 06 Suburban has electrically adjustable footpedals and I love it !
@@losteroni electrically adjustable = problems ahead
So my brakes are sinking I notice that my fluid Looks very dirty an the top on my master cylinder the rubber seal had going so big it want go back under the top could that be causing a sinking brake
hey dude,
my one is dripping brake fluid out of the area where the cap joins the brake master reservoir...this happens after travelling over 10km and when the engine comes to a stop.
Is this air in the brake lines/calipers causing heat expansion. Im lost on this as I flushed all 4 brake lines and it is still happening.
Why does my 97 Explorer break pedal pump up tight when car not running an when running it pushes to the floor
Very clear nicely done video. Thanks
How do you know it’s not the ABS module? Lots of people have the same symptoms and end up saying it’s the module 🤷♂️
What if the brake pedal holds until you turn the car off? Shut the car off and pedal goes to floor. Brakes also have a wheezing sound when you let off the brakes when driving. Thanks
Very helpful video! Thank you.
Holy smokes, its called a Line Wrench. Check for leaks everywhere else first. If it has drum brakes on the rear they could be way out of adjustment and the wheel cylinders leaking from too much travel. What kind of vehicle is it? What year model is it?
My 1984 Nissan Junior is having the same problem, with the engine shut off the pedal feel stiff, once the engine is running and driving arround the brake pedal goes really deep to engage the brakes, its the oem from 84'
Hi I had breaks before I CHANGED the calipers and caliper bracket and new break pads....and blead the breaks 3 TIMES and I have no breaks...i took that hose it has suction no leaks clean and new type 4 on my 2001 excursion I have a break pedal that goes to the FLOOR
I don´t know what it´s called in English, but my brake pedal resists and rattles. It happens both when the pedal is moving and still while being pressed. Something lets go and makes noise and resists the pedal. As I press through the two resistant levels it resumes normal braking.
Lay off the sauce
Why can't my mechanic fix my spongy sinking break pedal ?!!
Nice clear instructions .. My pedal to super top without the motor running but the pedal slowly sinks to the floor with the engine running .2008 Citroen 2 litre HDI 6 speed manual g change .
Also, am I understanding the test right? 1.) With car off pump brake pedal several times until it is hard to press 2.) Turn on car, put in drive 3.) Check how far pedal goes down when brake booster is active, if more then 3/8" then the master cylinder has an internal leak. Is that correct?
Dude you never heard of the small length of pipe with a cap/bung and split in it, sells for about £1 in UK, should imagine it's about a $ or 2 in US, for 1 man bleeding. You can make 1 for almost nothing.
Also the master cylinder can be serviced with a kit costing a fraction of the price of a new 1, contains a few O' rings and seals..these are the failed components inside the master cylinder.
Great video, but the measurements 27 1/4" you took are at the same condition, engine start, gear at Drive,
Mine has pressure when pressed but sometimes it sinks when u need it the most so i double tap. What could be the issue? No vissible external leaks
I changed my master cylinder and still no pedal smart ass. and yes I blead the brakes. same issue
Kool nice simple video dude u made it seems so DIY KEEP UP THR GOOD WORK
Thanks, will do!
I like to know if you can use the gravity to bleed the brakes. Saying push back the pedal leave it open complete by pushing it back and put dumbbells or wood to hold the back and fill up the reservoir tell all the bubbles come out. That is safe to do without pumping?
Till the bubbles complete out that will work?
Hi mate, is there anyway I can send some videos of my brake set up just to confirm what I think? I believe the booster and the cylinder have gone.
I'm lucky the brake assist is sticking out like dogs balls on my car but not lucky that it needs replacing. The whole engine is running erratic because of this.
Couldn't it just be a leaky seal issue? The master cylinder itself might actually be fine if its a break line issue.
Sir my problem is.. When i press the brake the rpm goes down and when i press two to three time engines die
Thank you perfectly explained!
One of the best explained brake videos I've seen so far!
And I disconnected the negative battery post as you stated
Hi
Great video thank you for sharing
Great video..big help..thank you
the only dumbell i know of is me...
Thank u for the tip about the abs system,
What about the brake check valve in the booster?
Nice video man. Good explanations appreciate you
Very informative, thank you
Can a bad break booster cause this too
So in the beginning, u perform the same test twice?
If you're careful, there's no need to remove the fluid from the reservoir, when removing the master cylinder.
Won't it come out the holes when it's all disconnected from lines and from Brake Booster? How do you disconnect without getting rid of fluid?
G'day mate, I still have a bit of a sinking pedal after installing a new master and bleed?
Chek abs 4 leax
So I just tried bleeding my brakes this last week before resorting to replacing the master cylinder; to see if it was just air in the system. I tried testing my car on non-busy streets around the neighborhood last night. It feels night and day better, but still if I come to a stop and hold, it slowly slowly will go to the floor, much much slower than before bleeding brakes when I noticed the problem all of the sudden and I had mushy braking power. Watching the video again I'm thinking I might need to just replace the master cylinder after hearing you again; talking about when you come to a stop and the pedal slowly goes to the floor. Does this sound to you like a master cylinder problem if it got noticeably better?
did you replace it? did it solve it
@@MikaelFresco No. I am kinda convinced that it's not the Master cylinder, but just air and that air got in the threads of my bleeders when I was bleeding them. They leaked a little bit. I got a pressure bleeder that I will use this Saturday to pressurize it. This way when I open the bleeder valves it will push out the threads too so air won't be able to get back in. I am hoping this will solve it!
@@MikaelFresco giving an update for you or anyone else if it might help. I used a motive products pressure bleeder where it attaches to your brake fluid reservoir and you pressurize it which pumps fluid through at 15psi. I did this and bled my brakes using two 32 oz bottles of brake fluid, 32 oz for every two calipers pretty much to be extremely thorough in getting out all air since the first time bleeding only got it up to maybe 60-70% normal braking.
After using the pressure bleeder my car now brakes 95-98% of what it used to be. Super happy that I didn’t need to replace my master cylinder. At stand stills it might ever ever so slightly start to creep forward/pedal sinks. But maybe like a 1/16” or 1/8” sink. A couple times it has sunk to half way down on full pedal stroke but I think that has gone away. Still checking things out but I’m really happy to have safe strong and infinitely more consistent braking again.
I also looked up on my Mazda 3 2012 the brake bleeding order. Turns out that it’s not like usual braking systems starting farthest away and working closest. It’s a dual setup with separate lines for redundancy or something. The order for my Mazda is back left, front right, back right, front left.
This order combined with the pressure bleeder helped a lot. I am convince that the first time around when I was bleeding the brakes, air was getting in the threads as it was leaking out but I think the pressure bleeder helped to always be pushing fluid out.
The only things I can think of that might get my brakes 100% back to normal are to try bleeding the master cylinder and or replacing jt, but given that those are more lengthy processes I will see how this goes.
Thanks for your helpful video. I knew something was up with the brakes on my car, but i couldn't quite put my finger on the problem, there was no fluid loss, and if I was driving along and suddenly braked everything worked fine. The slow decrease in peddle height is a symptom though so I'm going to check the master cylinder. Thanks again for kindness in sharing.
Thank you
Nice clear video , thanks for taking the time to post .
Glad it was helpful!
That really small bubbles matter or its okay?
Yes really small bubbles matter. Get them _all_ out.
Thanks very helpful video. I was thinking how myself can bleed the brake fluid. The vacuum tool looks very handy.
No problem 👍
There is a similar kit which uses tyre pressure to blow fluid in, and includes an extra reservoir so you don't have to top up so often. 'Gunson Eezi-bleed'. I've been using it for many years. It's very good. www.toolstation.com/gunson-eezibleed-kit/p82378 After about a decade you have to reseal the pipes into the lid 'cos they harden up, but mine must be 20 years old by now and I was just using it yesterday.
Question, when I would wiggle my brake bleeder valves in a circle when I was putting the rubber cap back on, the bleeder valve would leak a little around the threads and also while loosened for bleeding, but even after testing my car and braking, there is zero sign of leaking. This would happen with almost all my brake bleeders. Is this normal? I tightened them really tight imo till they wouldn't turn anymore, but I don't want to snap the bleeders or strip the treads. Never done bleeding on my car before so all these little nuances I'm not sure if they are normal or not. Wondering if I need to replace all my bleeder valves.
did they stop leaking on you?
@@fuckcensorship69 lol. This comment was like 10 months ago so all I saw in the notification preview was “did they stop leaking on you” me: …O_o, not remembering what I commented, haha.
Are you having the same problem? They did. I replaced the one bad one and that was good. The others though, I had to do little by little more and more tight. If you are having the same problem I would recommend always always verging on the side of caution foremost. Then just using your best judgement on how many squeezes(attempts to turn) to put into them after they are snug. Maybe starting with one grunts worth of force past snug, lol. So snug, and maybe another snug or two attempt while still being careful and not cranking because they can be stripped or get deformed. And also obviously remember to always use the exact same or metric wrench to not round the nut on it either.
@@GMoney-B i was just curious. everytime i finish some plumbing repair i end up with a small leak that stops within a few hours...lol....but thats only water, not brake fluid....thanks for your response
@@fuckcensorship69 haha. Plumbing I know even less about other than how to turn off water and connect or disconnect things/get rid of clogs. Haha
@@GMoney-B same. plungers on sink clogs is my only trick. lol
We
Is there an order to bleed it front then back or left side then right side?
Yes typically you will want to bleed starting from the furthest from the abs pump then the 2nd furthest and so forth. So for my car its rear right, rear left, front left, front right.
What worked with my Infiniti (Nissan) was passenger rear, driver front, driver rear, passenger front. That was the only way we were able to finally bleed the brakes.
Now I’m stuck with the brake pedal still going to the floor…even after changing out both the master cylinder and booster, fluid level seems to be staying the same.
If I had dot 3 and then put in dot 4 will this cause a problem
No because most dot 3, can be mixed with dot 4, check user manual or brake res cap it should tell you, but as in general dot 3 can be topped up with dot 4, it also tells you that on the fluid bottles of dot 4 you buy.
@@stef2797 thank YOU
It don't matter about the number cause I use one or the other never hurt my cars and truck brake fluid brake fluid what ever is handy
Great video thanks
No problem 👍
Thnks
This is the real gold on youtube right here for automotive.. Being taught clearly on what to look for and how to diagnose, in addition to how to fix things.
That is a big stick LOL
Oh yes. Need a helping 'hand'.
Thank you for the zip ties on the mighty vac that would've never dawned on me
I just replaced the brake pads and calipers bleed the brakes had good brakes before doing the job now I have no brakes what could have gone WRONG 2001 Ford excursion v10 4 wheel drive..please help and good VIDEOS...i just DON'T think the brake booster will go bad just because I put new pads and new calipers on all wheels or how can the master cylinder go bad when I had breaks before starting the job...how do we know if IT'S the master cylinder or the brake booster....should the truck be off or on I am assuming off...i bleed the brakes since I have abs..so I will do that now..but I am confused as to why I have to disconnect the battery when I didn't have to disconnect it when replacing the new calipers and pads..
I replaced master cylinder but still sinks, 1993 gmc vandura what else can it be?
It can be alot of different things
My 2000 Ford F-150 brake pedal goes down to floor and makes a weird air sound. The brakes work, they just go straight to the floor. Nothing wrong the master cylinder and we’ve already bled the master cylinder. Should I replace my anti lock brake system
I'd triple check you don't have a leak. Check the brake lines underneath your truck and the fittings at the calipers.
@crisfixit has said otherwise with leaving the pump run empty what do ya think idk...
Don't let the pump run empty.
You didn't teach me any thing. Use proper, practical and real illustrations, not explanatory illustrations
you are great, i just had my brakes done, and my brakes are sinking, you have given me food for thought. thank you very much, sometimes i feel i get taken for a ride being a woman.
ok..i had a mechanic (friend)..put new brake pads on.. and also add brake fluid..but when i drive..the pedal does go down but not all the way to the floor.. It does stop the car.. he mentioned something about calibers?? also.. how much would that cost about the master cylinder??
You can have your friend quickly test the calipers - ruclips.net/video/TRwu5rNG8RQ/видео.html
You can also test the master cylinder - ruclips.net/video/uNkuqGkQtLw/видео.html
I gave you a dislike just to noy wear shoes
Thanks for this video.. I was driving my truck and my brake pedal went to the floor. It startled me a bit, it’s off and on so I’ll definitely take a look at this and see if it does the trick. 👍🏾
Still got the same problem! After an all new master cylinder !
And I’ve replaced the ABS pump!
Think the problem started after a pad change from were I pressed back the caliper Pistons!?? Never seen this before!
I have bleed 5 liter of brake fluid thru the system with vag com running the ABS pump, and can Not find any air! And I do Not see any leaks at all!
But the pedal still goes to the floor??
Someone got some ideas??
Its a vw 2008 caddy/touran!
Did you find the cause of this problem..? I have the same, possibly also after pad change and pushing back cylinders.
I didn't know about disconnecting the negative battery cable for cars with abs. I have a 2010 Taurus and didn't do that. The brake pedal is good and hard before you start it but is soft after starting. Is that a sign of air in the abs or a sign that the master cylinder or brake booster going bad? Thanks.