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Saab 9-3 Oil Change
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- Опубликовано: 3 сен 2016
- How to change the oil on a Saab 9-3. Vehicle shown is a 2006, but the same procedure apples for 2003-2011 model years.
Cabin Air Filter Replacement:
• Saab 9-3 Cabin Air Fil...
Saab 9-3 Maintenance Playlist: • Saab 9-3 Maintenance
Thanks for posting this. I just did this oil change. Instead of jack and stands, I built ramps out of staggered pieces of 2x8 (3 for each side) which got the front end up 4.5". I'm 6'5" and 220lbs. I was able to easily slide under far enough to remove and later reinstall the oil drain plug. The tip about using a Ziploc for filter element is a good one since it will drip a lot. The only thing I did differently was not to reinstall the engine cover until the car was off the ramps and running. That way I could easily confirm there was no leakage around the oil filter canister. Even with the car on flat ground, you can see the drain plug to look for leaks there, too, while running the engine. After running, checking level, adding a little more oil, then a drive cycle, checked again, my 2006 took about 6.2 qts.
Excellent and well detailed video! Thank you. I will not pay over $100 for an oil change, but will do it myself.
5w30 is A1/B1, this engine needs A3/B3 or A3/B4 or C3 (0w40, 5w40 and 0w30). It makes a difference on HTHS and the turbo needs that.
Seinden Pyneeandee i use 10w 30 non synthetic
I was told u can even go as high as 0w50, is that correct?
I always use 0w 30 as recommended for the petrol engine in the workshop manual
Thanks for posting, really helpful. Appreciate you taking the time to produce and upload.
Great vid, thanks. How many jacks do you use for raising the car? At 5:00 ish mins I see 2 jacks. Are there 2 along the other side of the car as well to raise it horizontally? Or can you raise just one side? Thanks!
Good vid ok....but you missed a VITAL step at the end of the process, after the oil change, before starting and driving around..
To protect vital areas such as the turbo bearing, crankshaft bearings etc etc, which after draining are obviously oil starved, you should crank the engine on the starter only, (remove fuse F10, I think), until you have oil pressure, (oil light goes out on the dash).
This ensures that there is oil in all the vital places before they get hit with the higher pressures of the engine actually running.
Good luck man, I hope you love working on your Saab as much as I do!!
By crank do u mean when you turn the car it makes the turn noise a couple times then starts?
When you drain the oil, you're only draining the oil that ordinarily drains away from these components when the engine is switched off. For any components where oil starvation is that much of an issue (such as turbos) there are non-return valves that prevent the oil draining out when the engine is off. Regardless of how long you leave the sump plug out, you aren't removing all the oil in the engine, just what's in the sump.
I'm one for mechanical sympathy but what you're suggesting makes no difference to the engine.
Don't worry mine already does that because of my intake valves
Should wipe the new oil seal with oil to prevent it sticking. Also use engine flush added to the old oil to help take out the contaminants
You should never run any type of additive or flush on these cars. Unless it's coolant flush. That's about it.
Of course you can they wouldn't make them otherwise and has cleaned a few of my cars out nicely.
Why would you say not to and where's your scientific proof not to, to back up your theory? 🤔🤔
@@yojomojo6262 I'm not the earlier guy but the arguments against engine flush are: 1) engine crud that has built up to the point where it isn't suspended in the oil may well just be moved around the engine from somewhere safe (i.e. the sump) to somewhere it can cause damage (oil galleries). 2) engine crud that has built up around seals may in fact be facilitating the seal and therefore its removal can instigate a slow leak, necessitating seal replacement. 3) Engine flush is not a lubricant. How do you get it all out of your engine once it's done its job? You can't! You can only drain the sump and refill the oil, diluting the flush.
What I've done on neglected engines in the past is to drop the old oil, replace with fresh oil of the right spec but generally a cheaper brand, then run it for a week, then dropped that oil, replaced filter and refill with the good oil.
Anyone who knows would replace the seals and put a cheap oil through the engine again and then drain and place a quality oil thereafter
Thanks for the info well detailed. How you check the rear differential. Service xwd light came on in mine. Any answers would be great. If you have any. Thanks
Thank you! Great video with details!
Hello, thanks for posting this video. Got a question..Recently changed oil at my local mechanics. He was busy and one of his guys who are working for him do the job. The guy seemed not so experimented and not so meticulous. He did a good job except that he over-filled the engine with half a quart of oil. I have bought 2 jugs of 5 L each. He emptied one jug completely and put 1.4 L of the other jug which makes 6.4 L whehereas the engine capacity is 6L. Would this be harmful for my engine or do I have to go back and have him drain the excess of oil.
Most engines have a a small capacity for extra oil, but not too much, as too much extra oil creates additional oil pressure causing oil to seep into the intake system risking fouling spark plugs and perhaps blowing engine cylinder head seals. An extra 0.4L is probably not going to hurt the Saab 9-3 as it is designed for a larger capacity to begin with. One option would be to check for any pending fault codes related to oil pressure that may be present in the computer, and if none are present then get another oil change early perhaps around 2,500 miles or so. The only way to reduce your oil would be to siphon 0.4L out from the top, or essentially do another complete oil change. If you want to be cautiou (which is the route I would take, I would get a hand pump and then stick the siphon end into the dipstick tube, and then pump close to 0.4L of oil into another container until I had the proper oil level. a hand pump is about $15 and you might be surprised at the other uses you will find for it (e.g. lawn mower & string trimmer oil changes etc.).
Fortunately, SAAB foresaw such uncertainty arising, and fitted every one of these cars with a state of the art oil-overfill test device... See the yellow handle in front of the engine? That's connected to a metal rod that goes directly into the sump. Pull this out, clean it off with a paper towel then push it all the way back into the hole it came out of. Pull it out a second time and see where the oil is against the markings on the bottom. If it's higher than "MAX" then the engine has too much oil.
(seriously, the original poster is going on the quantity the mechanic measured out, and the channel owner is talking about checking fault codes, neither have mentioned checking the dipstick)
donkmeis
Hey man I just got my 2011 Saab 9³ a few months ago and I'm doing a full oil change for the first time. I'm seeing a lot of conflicting info about whether to use 5W-30 or 0W-40. Any reason I should go with one over the other?
530 is what i put in my 5.0 f150. Its thicker think of how hard itll be for a 4 cylinder to pump that oil its a turbo car it needs thin oil for the higher rpms.
Well done..thank you
Can u please do a coolant flush and refill vid!!!
What type of filter did you use? When Google 2009 Saab 9-3 oil filter I get long and short ones. Don't wanna get the wrong one
Here is a look at several filter options ruclips.net/video/MMriTyOhM_Q/видео.html
Hi have you ever changed you fuel filter ? Cheers
you should be able to runa extra half a qt in any 4 and 6 cylinder and a extra qt in v8s based off most any oil additives amounts and from old timers and mechanics who i trust will tell you a half qt is no big deal so 6.5 should be totally fine unless saab knows something crazy no one else does
What's the main difference between the K&N oil filter vs. a Mann?
Not much, I've used Bosch, K&N, Mann, and Mahle. Other than country of origin and local in-stock availability they all seem to perform the same.
So @1:35, the 'tightening' you were referring to was for your gas cap, yes?
Damn I haven't changed my oil in 12K miles. I'm now seeing oil around my alternator and engine hoses go figure hope there's no sludge or hope filter ant clogged
I always use a new sump plug they only cost a few dollars
how much different is 5w-30 vs 0w-30 anyway
its is a bigger deal in cold weather. The first number is the viscosity when cold. 0w-30 will be able to flow better at first on a cold engine start up in the winter. In Sweden, Alaska, and Canada using 0-w30 would be more important. I switch to 0-w30 in the winter just for good measure.
Can i replace the oil filter without taking the oil out?
You *should* be able to do that, though that seems like an odd situation.
U can’t even see what ur doin underneath