I would recommend spraying the area around the dipstick with Brake Cleaner to avoid dirt and debris from falling into the filler hole when you pull the dipstick out.
Thank you for a good example of car care. I have 2.0 9-3 2005 and 2007, both manual. Recently got 2006 9-3 wagon automatic. Thanks to your great effort - it helps to plan and avoid those "darn, I forgot to order it" traps.
WIS (online Saab maintenance manual) says to check the fluid level while the car is running. I missed that the first time and I checked while the car was cold and off. My dipstick showed that it was overfilled a bit past the hot marker so I drained some fluid out. This caused my car to shift poorly and with some noise. After adding back the fluid I drained out and checking the dipstick while the car was running (but not warm, just running a minute or so after being off all night) the dipstick showed just above the cold marker so pretty much perfect, and my car is now shifting better with the new fluid and the proper amount!
Good tip. I ran into the same problem after the poring the new fluid - it took only 3 liters and indicated full while 3.5 liters were drained out. After running the car in Drive and Reverse for a minute it settled.
🇿🇦 You are a star 👉⭐ Thank you for your prompt response.Anither big thank you for not including unnecessary dogs,cats,storks and rabbits in your videos.Its clear and to the point.With respect from the World Cup rugby nation.👉🇿🇦🏉👈
Did it today, on later versions there is an engine mount that blocks you from reaching the bolt from the bottom, also i used a 0.2 liter syringe and i was done pretty quickly, great video man👌🏻
Great video, Jacob! Now I'm really concerned, since my 2010 now has 96,000 mi on it, and much like my Haldex system, I have no record of what was changed or when, by the previous owner! I do know that the dealer changed the engine oil, before I picked the car up, and when I do the next oil change, it's getting Amsoil signature series 0w30 synthetic. I'm a lifetime dealer, since 1980, and that oil is amazing! I might even gain a few miles per gallon, since XWD kills about 4 MPG. Thanks to GM for not putting a normal dipstick on our cars! You have no idea how your videos have helped me! Thank you much! I really want to keep this XWD around a long time, so I will dig in!
Have a 9-3 2004 convertible. Bought 2nd hand. Only has 70,000 miles on it. Almost got talked into replacing the transmission. Did change the fluid, but was still having problems. One transmission flush has greatly improved it’s performance. Hoping one last one will bring it back to perfection. Saab owner since 2001. Wish the dip stick was as easy as the oil one is. Your video was great and filled me with more know how than I had before.
Toyota Type 4 is a great way to go if you have the 5AT because it is relatively cheap and readily available for most people, Do not use on the 6AT like in the Aeros etc. They call for AW-1 and not 3309.I have done several drain and refills with the Toyota Type 4 with no issues on my 08 93 2.0T with 5AT. This transmission is made by Aisin(Toyota) and is near bulletproof if properly cared for.
Wow, talk about perfect timing. I just purchased trans oil last week and I am getting ready to drop off my Saab to get the trans oil replaced on my 2.0 turbo. He is an independent mechanic. I will let him know about your video. Maybe he will use it to help him change the trans oil. Thanks
Thank you so much for a perfectly descriptive video! I kinda felt like a fool looking for the dipstick 😂. But the process doesn't look as bad as others I've worked on. Thanks again for the detailed vid!
Hi, i have a problem with 5 speed automatic transmition in my 9-3 2.0T 2003. It shifts really hard from between 2 nad 3 especially when downshifts. I ve changed fluid twice and it didnt help. The problem happens only when the fluid is work. When transmition is cold it changes gears really smoothly. Any advice?
the transmission could start to be on its way out; although I am not an expert on that and could not give you a much better answer than that. thankfully, if that is the case, auto transmissions are not very hard to find
Could be worthwhile to have the latest update. Correction of these issues often requires a simple software update, meaning the vehicle only needs to be plugged in, and the transmission controller receives new programming meant to fix these drivability concerns. It could also be a mechanical ahift solenoid, but the software is your best choice because to my knowledge, the parts aren't sold anymore. Anyways good luck, friend..@piotrkazmierczak8482
Great video, very detailed. I just did my change. You got some skinny hands because my sausage fingers couldn't unscrew it down below. The hardest part was putting back the 12mm screw. I had to tamper mine off to get back in.
I just use a long extension with a swivel piece on the end and then the 12 mm and then use a long claw to pull dip stick, a bit of bluetack on the socket to put it back,easy
Jacob, suggest you use an Endoscope Camera when filming video in the Engine compartment or other places that normal camera cannot reach . You can find one in eBay as cheap as around $10- or better quality at $30+ .....
I couldn't get a socket on that 12mm bolt by the dipstick from under the car, so I bought a 24" extension. I put with a universal on the end with the socket and easily loosened the bolt. I used a grabber tool to get the bolt up to me. I had to pry the dipstick out of the transmission with a small thin screwdriver, but slow and calm gets it done. That 24" extension doubled as my filler guide because I taped 1/2 OD 3/8 ID plastic hose to it leaving about 1.5"" to enter the transmission where the dipstick was. But, as always thank you for posting your videos so we can keep our Saabs healthy and on the road.
Just did this on my 2010 9-3 and I’m just wondering why Saab didn’t add a proper fill hole 😂 took out 4 quarts added 4quarts back in 61k and runs amazing def a good video I can refer back 2 in the future
this car has had a few oil leaks I've repaired over the years. you should be able to tell just by looking, but these are some common leaks: ruclips.net/video/YND98dMklfw/видео.html
It's not four quarts. It's about 3.75 quarts. I also do it three times. I change it. Drive it about 10 miles. Drain and fill it again and then once more. It helps with exchanging the fluid in the torque converter as well.
Here's a question, bought a 2008 9-3 2.0t convertible with 110,000 miles. Have no idea if a trans fluid change has been done ever. I've heard people say years ago that it's a bad idea to change the fluid on an old car because the new fluid will ruin it. I didn't follow that rule an a 2003 Audi TT with 120000 miles. The tranny started slipping a couple years later but the mileage put on in that time was low, less than 15k. Anyway, that long lead in brings me to this. What are your thoughts on changing the Trans fluid on this car?
I had flaring issues of my transmission when new Saab dealership put in new toyota fluid ,still had flaring issues , changed it out to mobil one 3309 and that was over 10 years ago ...no flaring ever again
@@shykaliguy33 Flare is a term used in place of the term "slipping". For example, when the transmission is shifting and during the shift from one gear to another the RPMs rise excessively or for too long a period of time, this is routinely called "slipping" but its also become known as "flaring".
Please make a video about changing the train oil on the V-6 9.3. Our local Saab certified shop wants over $500.00 to change the trans oil in our V-6. Our 2.0 Saab is getting ready to have its trans fluid changed by an independent mechanic for lots less $$.
Change the motor oil every 3-5k miles, I hope you didn’t mean it’s been 18,000 miles lol. I have videos on how to do it on the channel too if you search :)
I was wondering if I can use this for my 6AT since I’m about to die my transmission fluid change and was curious if I could use this fluid or is there a specific fluid that needs to be used
Been doing fluid drain a fills on my 2.8 with the f40 trans auto it uses Saab aw-1 I’ve been reading that it’s an absolute must to use the correct fluid I wouldn’t put anything other than the Saab fluid in it
A couple of additional thoughts. From what I remember the check is supposed to be done with the engine idling. I am wondering if you were reading the dipstick correctly? The cold range is the area with four level marks below the word COLD and the hot area are the four marks below the word HOT on the dipstick. Depending on the fluid temperature the level should be WITHIN those four marks. For a cold check your level seems to be too high?
Any problems with using Castrol Transmax that is a universal fluid that covers the specs of the T-IV Toyota? Walmart carries it and it's less expensive.
Amazing as always love your videos helps me loads So when u take the screw to drain the fluid only 3L comes out right so just needs 3L in new fluid right Thaks bro
Once you pull out the drain plug 3.5 qts are coming out in a hurry! Using a glove, MAYBE you could sowly back out the drain plug and hold it like a cork as you hit the last thread and then thread it back in just enough to hold and still get a slow drizzle. (has worked for me on other drain plugs but never tried on the transmission, the drizzle could take half an hour to yield a quart) For sure you could use a hand vacuum pump or an electric fluid pump with a small enough hose down through the dipstick hole. Most hand vacuum pumps come with a very small resevoir but I just make my own larger resevoir out of a large water bottle with a suction line and vacuum line (like 1/4" clear hosing, cheap food grade hosing ) drilled through the cap so you don't have to empty the resevoir ten times. If you have the 6AT, the fill plug is accessed from the top usually without even having to remove the battery tray. With any of these methods, if you are not confident in your ability to check the level after you drain, take it out cold and replace it cold with the exact same volume . The 5 AT is easier to check because it actually has a dipstick. The 6AT has a more complicated overflow tube system to ensure the proper volume.
Sorry I misunderstood your question, I thought you only wanted to get that much out period. You have to repeat this process minimally 3or 4 times to get near to all new. I think the math is wrong here anyway, its about 3.5 qts per drain and over 7qts total capacity or the 5 AT
Hi I have 2007 saab 93 2.0T it’s has 80k miles on it. Do I have to change the transmission oil ? If so can I use valvoline MAXlife ATF ? On google it says 7.6quarts need to put in after draining. Can you Telme how much to I need to put in back after draining. I’m confused and stuck. Plz help me.
Thanx for the reply. Yeah mines is automatic and I ordered Mobil 3309 ATF. I’m gonna flush the transmission gonna vacuum the fluid from the cooler lines and torque converter. I have checked today the transmission fluid is dark kind of black and brown. If I do full flush on google it says it’s gonna take 7.6 quarts is that correct?
@@AutoAutopsy thanx for the reply. Mines is automatic. If I do full flush like vacuum cooler lines and torque converter will it gonna take 7.6 quarts? Google says full flush 7.6 quarts?? Please Telme about this. I’m gonna order toyota type 4 or Mobil 3309.
@@AutoAutopsy yeah I have check online as well it’s valvoline is not good for saab. Mine is at 80k and the fluid is kind or dark brown and black. Should I do full flush or just do the drain and put the new 4 quarts in ? What you recommend please let me know.
Are you missing your front motor mount? I just replace the one in my sons car and decided to do the tranny fluid since it was perfect timing having much easier access to the dipstick/refill hole. So watching your video made me think yours was missing.
A lot of people say that it’s a bad idea to flush or do a complete trans fluid exchange on a higher mileage car, that you can actually ruin the transmission.
I would agree, flush can be a a dirty word (for several reasons) on a poorly maintained transmission, but no fluid will last forever so what can you do? I suggest the drain and refill method like done in this video, so as not to completely shock the system or knock deposits loose. transmission fluid is highly detergenated to suspend the impurities.I get 3.5 qts out, every drain of my 5 AT which is less than 50% of the overall capacity. I drain and refill and and drive for a week or month and let the new detergented fluid do its thing and wait before repeating, so I'm not just draining the good clean fluid back out immediately trying to get it to theoretical 100% fresh which takes minimally 3 to 4 drain and fills. I have personally used this method on my 200K plus 2.0T 5 AT with no issues using Toyota Type 4.
@@nolanpratt4291 Sounds like a good approach, but, some have pointed out that with an AT at least, that as the clutches and what not wear over time they can start to slip if the fluid is too slippery, ie 100% new, which will damage the transmission. There needs to be the proper amount of friction for an AT to function properly.
@@dandyfi4076 I've seen this arguement from several reputable sources, but if you are at the point where your wet clutches are only gripping because the fluid is so full of clutch grit, then your transmission is living on borrowed time because all of its many bearings are being lubricated with that same gritty fluid. I have literally seen people with less than a 100K who are terrified to to touch their transmission fluid, so I think it is a debate worth having. Start the drain and fill schedule before its too late. If someone has a really high mileage transmission with no history, then maybe do a partial drain and fill and keep the old fluid to put it back in if needed so you don't have to get a tow to the transmission shop. in my mind the point is to develop a healthy view towards the ease and relative low cost of keeping fresh transmission fluid in yourSaab. These 5 speed Aisin transmissions in the 93s have a great track record, just don't ignore them.Thanks for the reply.
Hopefully this weekend I'll be switching over to Amsoil signature series synthetic tranny fluid. Fortunately, Amsoil sells flex packs for tight areas. Like quart size CapriSun type containers with a spout. Squeeze it in! No muss, no fuss! it will be an expensive flush, even at my cost, being an Amsoil dealer, but it is one of the best fluids you can buy, and Saab is worth it! I also have an Amsoil oil change 0w30 sitting on my dining room floor, for my 2010 and 5w20 for my wife's Subaru. Busy weekend ahead! Did I mention a full Haldex service kit sitting there as well? I don't know why they didn't use the flex pack? Rather than buy a pump, maybe I can reuse the amsoil flex packs to get the oil into the Haldex XWD unit. And, I work 2 jobs! Not enough hours on the clock!
I heard the hard shifting like on my 2.8 v6 automatic transmission does when going in and out of 4th gear…is a result of a failing/worn transmission valve body …which is a serviceable part located inside the tranny oil pan. Love to know what tranny fluid others have successfully used on the 9-3 2.8 turbo v6 …hope this helps track down your hard shifting. Frank 2006 9-3 aero 2.8t 6spd auto transmission
My 2011 Saab 9-3 hasn't had it's transmission fluid changed ever and it's around 101k miles should I replace it or is it too late? Really looking for advice
@@AutoAutopsy have codes P0337- crankshaft circuit low, P0750 speed circuit low and P0700 transmission control. Suggests bad crankshaft sensor since engine takes many cranks to fire up?
@Auto Autopsy Hello. Man, thank you for great vid. I'm owner of SAAB 9-5 estate 2.0, 2005. Is trans oil the same for my transmission box? In my country I have Eurol ATF 1100. Can I use it? Your opinion?
@@AutoAutopsy upgrading using original parts? I'd need to add the amps and get some more optical fibre wouldn't I? Would love to see a video on it or any recommended channel that has done it!
Check in the compartment on the left side of your trunk. There should be two fiber wires and another set of wires zip tied to the rear driver wheel well. If so, you can find an Arc or an Aero at a salvage yard and take Amp2, the two 6x9s, and the two rear tweeters. Make sure you get the connector that connects the tweeters to the existing 4 1/2” rounds - you will need that - and you will need to remove the rear driver pillar cover and remove the entire rear speaker harness. This is plug and play into the rear fuse box area. To complete the 13 speaker “prestige” package, you will also need the two front tweeters in the left and right side of the dash. To remove and reinstall these, the best way I’ve found is to use a T20 bit with lock pliers. The windshield is too close to get any other tools in there. When you remove the amp2 in the salvage car, it’s almost guaranteed that you’re going to end up having to break the little clip that holds the two fiber wires together. You can order it from essabparts. Part number 12791220 Once you get everything installed, you’ll need to activate “prestige audio” and “amp2” inside the ICM settings with a Tech2. There’s a directory of people with Tech2s in the saabscene forum. Just search around and you’ll find it. Any authorized service center can do it as well. Hope this helps!
You may have mentioned it, but is this the 5 or 6 speed auto transmission? I'm not even sure if they made the 9-3 2.0t with 5 speed, but I figured I'd ask. Thank you.
5 speed. About 99% of automatic 9-3’s with the 2.0 were 5 speed. I don’t think they added the 6 speed auto to the 2.0 until the last year or two of production/to XWD cars
Hey big bro My b206 is shifting into gears with a delay (not turbo lag) do u think it’s the trans fluid causing this? Bought it at 136k km it’s at 141k right now
Jacob, did you have to change the drain plug gasket? Esaab wants $12 for a tiny little gasket! Just wanna make sure I’m doing this right the first time.
Hi. Thanks (again :-) for a super good video on how to do an ATF change. I am planning to do one myself, and I was wondering if anybody has tried using a vacuum pump for getting the ATF out? It seems like an easy way to get the job done. I will refill using a 12 mm (or so) aluminum pipe with a funnel on top. I will repeat 3 times x 3 litres approx- and if the vacuum method only draws out a small amount of ATF, I will get down under the car and use the drain plug instead :-)
Awesome video Jacob 🙂, tho I think I cringed just a little seeing engine fluid on your hand. The fresh fluid going through the tube was cool. Did you partake in any snow fun up in Flagstaff? It's wild to think you're 2 hours south living in Phoenix from Flagstaff, and Northern Arizona got pounded with snow. Is the 1999 9-3 video going to be uploaded? No rush.
Just did this finally with the nice Toyota ATF, but I don't recommend doing it in the rain, in the dark, while your fucking ford ranger that doesn't work is taking up your garage space.. lol.. I am replacing the crankshaft position sensor tomorrow because I still was having issues.. oh yeah and don't do it while on an uneven surface because my stuff was jacked up lol.. but this fluid is way better than the universals.. the viscosity is way higher with the Toyota. I also got 8 quarts.
Odd. Why does WIS tell us to pop the trans lines loose and use the IV and tubing method? Your method is far easier. My shop is going to miss the work this year...lol
@@AutoAutopsy it was certainly the weirdest instructions ever. Paraphrasing. "Set up an IV transfusion apparatus with 3 quarts of fluid, insert IV transfusion hose into transmission, start car...shut car off just as the fluid is emptied" Betting the Swedes were rolling on the floor laughing after coming up with that one.
If you just drain it and refill, you should do that at least 3 times to replace the majority of the oil. Remember that only a bit drains out this way, most will still reside in the matrix (I know When you just drain the automatic box on a Volvo 940, only 2 liter of the total of 7 liters is coming out) There are better ways to replace all the oil at once, but that involves a more time consuming proces.
I would recommend spraying the area around the dipstick with Brake Cleaner to avoid dirt and debris from falling into the filler hole when you pull the dipstick out.
Good tip 👊🏼
Thank you for a good example of car care. I have 2.0 9-3 2005 and 2007, both manual. Recently got 2006 9-3 wagon automatic. Thanks to your great effort - it helps to plan and avoid those "darn, I forgot to order it" traps.
Best of luck!
WIS (online Saab maintenance manual) says to check the fluid level while the car is running. I missed that the first time and I checked while the car was cold and off. My dipstick showed that it was overfilled a bit past the hot marker so I drained some fluid out. This caused my car to shift poorly and with some noise. After adding back the fluid I drained out and checking the dipstick while the car was running (but not warm, just running a minute or so after being off all night) the dipstick showed just above the cold marker so pretty much perfect, and my car is now shifting better with the new fluid and the proper amount!
Awesome!
Good tip. I ran into the same problem after the poring the new fluid - it took only 3 liters and indicated full while 3.5 liters were drained out. After running the car in Drive and Reverse for a minute it settled.
🇿🇦 You are a star 👉⭐ Thank you for your prompt response.Anither big thank you for not including unnecessary dogs,cats,storks and rabbits in your videos.Its clear and to the point.With respect from the World Cup rugby nation.👉🇿🇦🏉👈
Did it today, on later versions there is an engine mount that blocks you from reaching the bolt from the bottom, also i used a 0.2 liter syringe and i was done pretty quickly, great video man👌🏻
thank you!
Great video, Jacob! Now I'm really concerned, since my 2010 now has 96,000 mi on it, and much like my Haldex system, I have no record of what was changed or when, by the previous owner! I do know that the dealer changed the engine oil, before I picked the car up, and when I do the next oil change, it's getting Amsoil signature series 0w30 synthetic. I'm a lifetime dealer, since 1980, and that oil is amazing! I might even gain a few miles per gallon, since XWD kills about 4 MPG. Thanks to GM for not putting a normal dipstick on our cars! You have no idea how your videos have helped me! Thank you much! I really want to keep this XWD around a long time, so I will dig in!
happy to help! I would definitely service the XWD asap if it hasn't been done
Have a 9-3 2004 convertible. Bought 2nd hand. Only has 70,000 miles on it. Almost got talked into replacing the transmission. Did change the fluid, but was still having problems. One transmission flush has greatly improved it’s performance. Hoping one last one will bring it back to perfection. Saab owner since 2001. Wish the dip stick was as easy as the oil one is. Your video was great and filled me with more know how than I had before.
Happy to help! Yeah the dipstick situation is annoying for sure :/
Toyota Type 4 is a great way to go if you have the 5AT because it is relatively cheap and readily available for most people, Do not use on the 6AT like in the Aeros etc. They call for AW-1 and not 3309.I have done several drain and refills with the Toyota Type 4 with no issues on my 08 93 2.0T with 5AT. This transmission is made by Aisin(Toyota)
and is near bulletproof if properly cared for.
great comment! thanks for informing me/us
I did that on my car and now is not shifting good from 3 to 4
Wow, talk about perfect timing. I just purchased trans oil last week and I am getting ready to drop off my Saab to get the trans oil replaced on my 2.0 turbo. He is an independent mechanic. I will let him know about your video. Maybe he will use it to help him change the trans oil. Thanks
googling "Saab WIS" will take you to a great online resource you can likely print for your mechanic, it will contain enough info to get him through
nice! Nolan, WIS goes through about 20 unnecessary steps for this job; i'm not sure why lol. usually it's a fantastic resource
Thank you so much for a perfectly descriptive video! I kinda felt like a fool looking for the dipstick 😂. But the process doesn't look as bad as others I've worked on. Thanks again for the detailed vid!
Hi, i have a problem with 5 speed automatic transmition in my 9-3 2.0T 2003. It shifts really hard from between 2 nad 3 especially when downshifts. I ve changed fluid twice and it didnt help. The problem happens only when the fluid is work. When transmition is cold it changes gears really smoothly. Any advice?
the transmission could start to be on its way out; although I am not an expert on that and could not give you a much better answer than that. thankfully, if that is the case, auto transmissions are not very hard to find
@@AutoAutopsy Thanks for help ;) The thing is that there are no bad codes on my transmission and it jerks only when its hot.
Could be worthwhile to have the latest update. Correction of these issues often requires a simple software update, meaning the vehicle only needs to be plugged in, and the transmission controller receives new programming meant to fix these drivability concerns. It could also be a mechanical ahift solenoid, but the software is your best choice because to my knowledge, the parts aren't sold anymore. Anyways good luck, friend..@piotrkazmierczak8482
Great video, very detailed. I just did my change. You got some skinny hands because my sausage fingers couldn't unscrew it down below. The hardest part was putting back the 12mm screw. I had to tamper mine off to get back in.
lol, rip! glad to help
I just use a long extension with a swivel piece on the end and then the 12 mm and then use a long claw to pull dip stick, a bit of bluetack on the socket to put it back,easy
Tack som fan för denna video ! GRYMT
🙌🏼😁
Jacob, suggest you use an Endoscope Camera when filming video in the Engine compartment or other places that normal camera cannot reach . You can find one in eBay as cheap as around $10- or better quality at $30+ .....
I couldn't get a socket on that 12mm bolt by the dipstick from under the car, so I bought a 24" extension. I put with a universal on the end with the socket and easily loosened the bolt. I used a grabber tool to get the bolt up to me. I had to pry the dipstick out of the transmission with a small thin screwdriver, but slow and calm gets it done. That 24" extension doubled as my filler guide because I taped 1/2 OD 3/8 ID plastic hose to it leaving about 1.5"" to enter the transmission where the dipstick was. But, as always thank you for posting your videos so we can keep our Saabs healthy and on the road.
That’ll work! Happy to help 👍🏼🙌🏼
Just did this on my 2010 9-3 and I’m just wondering why Saab didn’t add a proper fill hole 😂 took out 4 quarts added 4quarts back in 61k and runs amazing def a good video I can refer back 2 in the future
yeah smh. the 9-5 has an easy dipstick and fill hole. kind of a shame!
were you able to reach the bolt by hand?
It's like you did a video on everything I'm working on. Thanks! I'm trying the flush out directions from WIS.
Could you just pull out the ATF from the dip stick using an oil extractor? Probably would need to repeat the drain/fill more times.
03 has no subframe to engine mount . Later years have one in the open space requiring bolt removal from top.
ahhhh, makes sense!
Nice production! Very informative.
Much appreciated!
My owners manual mentions cleaning the filter when changing the ATF. Any idea where the filter is located and how it should be cleaned?
It’s not necessary
Exactly the vid I needed. I´m definately way overdue. Tnx.
no problem! glad i could help
looking at this video, im seeing all the same oil leaking in the same places under the car.. just wondering what oil leak you had/repaired..?!
this car has had a few oil leaks I've repaired over the years. you should be able to tell just by looking, but these are some common leaks: ruclips.net/video/YND98dMklfw/видео.html
they got the looong funnels. worked perfectly
yep, that'll help
It's not four quarts. It's about 3.75 quarts. I also do it three times. I change it. Drive it about 10 miles. Drain and fill it again and then once more. It helps with exchanging the fluid in the torque converter as well.
Yeah i put in the same amount that came out
U don't have any video about how to remove automatic transmission from flywheel?
I don't, sorry
Here's a question, bought a 2008 9-3 2.0t convertible with 110,000 miles. Have no idea if a trans fluid change has been done ever. I've heard people say years ago that it's a bad idea to change the fluid on an old car because the new fluid will ruin it.
I didn't follow that rule an a 2003 Audi TT with 120000 miles. The tranny started slipping a couple years later but the mileage put on in that time was low, less than 15k.
Anyway, that long lead in brings me to this.
What are your thoughts on changing the Trans fluid on this car?
Perfect video as usual! Thanks brother!🤘👊
Thank you!!
I had flaring issues of my transmission when new Saab dealership put in new toyota fluid ,still had flaring issues , changed it out to mobil one 3309 and that was over 10 years ago ...no flaring ever again
Enlighten me, what's a flaring issue?
@@shykaliguy33 Flare is a term used in place of the term "slipping". For example, when the transmission is shifting and during the shift from one gear to another the RPMs rise excessively or for too long a period of time, this is routinely called "slipping" but its also become known as "flaring".
Please make a video about changing the train oil on the V-6 9.3. Our local Saab certified shop wants over $500.00 to change the trans oil in our V-6. Our 2.0 Saab is getting ready to have its trans fluid changed by an independent mechanic for lots less $$.
wow...when it comes time to do it on our v6, i will!
My local Seattle area Toyota dealer was 7.65 but still cheaper than Amazon.
How often do you change the motor Oil? My Saab 9.3’s have 100 and 220 ths miles on the clock. And are 2006 and 2009 models. Thanks. Jorgen Danmark
Have you ever taken a look in the owner's manual????
CertAinly. 30000km or 18ths miles. But that is not what I think is ok.
Change the motor oil every 3-5k miles, I hope you didn’t mean it’s been 18,000 miles lol. I have videos on how to do it on the channel too if you search :)
@@AutoAutopsy 18000 Miles is actually what the manual says!!!! Thanks
For engine oil?? No it doesn’t lol. I’d change that asap...
I was wondering if I can use this for my 6AT since I’m about to die my transmission fluid change and was curious if I could use this fluid or is there a specific fluid that needs to be used
Nope you can’t
Been doing fluid drain a fills on my 2.8 with the f40 trans auto it uses Saab aw-1 I’ve been reading that it’s an absolute must to use the correct fluid I wouldn’t put anything other than the Saab fluid in it
nice
A couple of additional thoughts. From what I remember the check is supposed to be done with the engine idling. I am wondering if you were reading the dipstick correctly? The cold range is the area with four level marks below the word COLD and the hot area are the four marks below the word HOT on the dipstick. Depending on the fluid temperature the level should be WITHIN those four marks. For a cold check your level seems to be too high?
it seems to be right where it should be!
Any problems with using Castrol Transmax that is a universal fluid that covers the specs of the T-IV Toyota? Walmart carries it and it's less expensive.
im not sure; I have always used toyota type IV or Mobil 3309...that's what recommended so that's what I would personally use!
Is saving a few dollars worth the trouble if it results in transmission failure? Hopefully that fluid works for you.
You can buy a metal funnel with long flexible stiffer tube on Amazon
true
hi I have saab 9.3 I have a problem when high rpm I do not want to change gears
post on a Saab FB group; you're not providing me with enough information to help you.
If you don't mind me asking how many planks of wood do you use to hoist front of car???
I drive it up on two 2x10's on each side, but that's only for clearance so I can get the jack under it
How to change the transmission filter in a 2004 SAAB 93 Linear
no filter needs to be changed
Amazing as always love your videos helps me loads
So when u take the screw to drain the fluid only 3L comes out right so just needs 3L in new fluid right
Thaks bro
Happy to help. Yeah! Just put back in whatever amount roughly comes out
Perfect, easy, very informatif. Thanks
👍🏼😀
Very informative. Just wondering if there is any way of getting the 1 1/2 qt. of old oil out?
A simple drain and refill is all that's necessary. A complete flush, especially on a higher mileage transmission, could be problematic.
Once you pull out the drain plug 3.5 qts are coming out in a hurry! Using a glove, MAYBE you could sowly back out the drain plug and hold it like a cork as you hit the last thread and then thread it back in just enough to hold and still get a slow drizzle. (has worked for me on other drain plugs but never tried on the transmission, the drizzle could take half an hour to yield a quart) For sure you could use a hand vacuum pump or an electric fluid pump with a small enough hose down through the dipstick hole. Most hand vacuum pumps come with a very small resevoir but I just make my own larger resevoir out of a large water bottle with a suction line and vacuum line (like 1/4" clear hosing, cheap food grade hosing ) drilled through the cap so you don't have to empty the resevoir ten times. If you have the 6AT, the fill plug is accessed from the top usually without even having to remove the battery tray. With any of these methods, if you are not confident in your ability to check the level after you drain, take it out cold and replace it cold with the exact same volume . The 5 AT is easier to check because it actually has a dipstick. The 6AT has a more complicated overflow tube system to ensure the proper volume.
Sorry I misunderstood your question, I thought you only wanted to get that much out period. You have to repeat this process minimally 3or 4 times to get near to all new. I think the math is wrong here anyway, its about 3.5 qts per drain and over 7qts total capacity or the 5 AT
yeah, best way it to drive it a few miles and repeat the process
Good video man!!
Appreciate it!
Hi I have 2007 saab 93 2.0T it’s has 80k miles on it. Do I have to change the transmission oil ? If so can I use valvoline MAXlife ATF ? On google it says 7.6quarts need to put in after draining. Can you Telme how much to I need to put in back after draining. I’m confused and stuck. Plz help me.
Follow this video. That’s not the correct fluid nor the right amount!
Assuming yours is automatic..
Thanx for the reply. Yeah mines is automatic and I ordered Mobil 3309 ATF. I’m gonna flush the transmission gonna vacuum the fluid from the cooler lines and torque converter. I have checked today the transmission fluid is dark kind of black and brown.
If I do full flush on google it says it’s gonna take 7.6 quarts is that correct?
@@AutoAutopsy thanx for the reply. Mines is automatic. If I do full flush like vacuum cooler lines and torque converter will it gonna take 7.6 quarts? Google says full flush 7.6 quarts??
Please Telme about this. I’m gonna order toyota type 4 or Mobil 3309.
@@AutoAutopsy yeah I have check online as well it’s valvoline is not good for saab. Mine is at 80k and the fluid is kind or dark brown and black. Should I do full flush or just do the drain and put the new 4 quarts in ? What you recommend please let me know.
Are you missing your front motor mount? I just replace the one in my sons car and decided to do the tranny fluid since it was perfect timing having much easier access to the dipstick/refill hole. So watching your video made me think yours was missing.
you could have the other engine?
@@KaheemBeam Both the 4 cylinder(B207) & 6 cylinder(LP9) have the same location front mount.
apparently the early NG's didn't come with the front mount. So it's technically missing, but it also never came with one there
Shouldn’t the engine be running for the checking of the stick
A lot of people say that it’s a bad idea to flush or do a complete trans fluid exchange on a higher mileage car, that you can actually ruin the transmission.
I agree! A simple drain and refill is all that's necessary as show in his video.
I would agree, flush can be a a dirty word (for several reasons) on a poorly maintained transmission, but no fluid will last forever so what can you do? I suggest the drain and refill method like done in this video, so as not to completely shock the system or knock deposits loose. transmission fluid is highly detergenated to suspend the impurities.I get 3.5 qts out, every drain of my 5 AT which is less than 50% of the overall capacity. I drain and refill and and drive for a week or month and let the new detergented fluid do its thing and wait before repeating, so I'm not just draining the good clean fluid back out immediately trying to get it to theoretical 100% fresh which takes minimally 3 to 4 drain and fills. I have personally used this method on my 200K plus 2.0T 5 AT with no issues using Toyota Type 4.
@@nolanpratt4291 Sounds like a good approach, but, some have pointed out that with an AT at least, that as the clutches and what not wear over time they can start to slip if the fluid is too slippery, ie 100% new, which will damage the transmission. There needs to be the proper amount of friction for an AT to function properly.
Interesting! Well I ended up only doing it once (still some old fluid in there) and it’s shifting like butter haha
@@dandyfi4076 I've seen this arguement from several reputable sources, but if you are at the point where your wet clutches are only gripping because the fluid is so full of clutch grit, then your transmission is living on borrowed time because all of its many bearings are being lubricated with that same gritty fluid. I have literally seen people with less than a 100K who are terrified to to touch their transmission fluid, so I think it is a debate worth having. Start the drain and fill schedule before its too late. If someone has a really high mileage transmission with no history, then maybe do a partial drain and fill and keep the old fluid to put it back in if needed so you don't have to get a tow to the transmission shop. in my mind the point is to develop a healthy view towards the ease and relative low cost of keeping fresh transmission fluid in yourSaab. These 5 speed Aisin transmissions in the 93s have a great track record, just don't ignore them.Thanks for the reply.
Hopefully this weekend I'll be switching over to Amsoil signature series synthetic tranny fluid. Fortunately, Amsoil sells flex packs for tight areas. Like quart size CapriSun type containers with a spout. Squeeze it in! No muss, no fuss! it will be an expensive flush, even at my cost, being an Amsoil dealer, but it is one of the best fluids you can buy, and Saab is worth it! I also have an Amsoil oil change 0w30 sitting on my dining room floor, for my 2010 and 5w20 for my wife's Subaru. Busy weekend ahead! Did I mention a full Haldex service kit sitting there as well? I don't know why they didn't use the flex pack? Rather than buy a pump, maybe I can reuse the amsoil flex packs to get the oil into the Haldex XWD unit. And, I work 2 jobs! Not enough hours on the clock!
Lol. Good luck with all of the fluid changes!!
Are these not the same AT installed in the 9-5? Glad to have a top mounted dipstick
i doubt they're the same trans, but i'm not certain
Thank you so much for the video 👍🏻
Man what kind of saab you working on I've looked everywhere on my saab
title says year and model lmao
Do these not have transmission filters?
Not one that you need to worry about replacing
Would this work the same way on a 2007 9-3 2.8 turbo? Getting some hard shifting and want to check the fluids.
it's probably similar for the 2.8; as stated in the video, this is for a 2.0 though
I heard the hard shifting like on my 2.8 v6 automatic transmission does when going in and out of 4th gear…is a result of a failing/worn transmission valve body …which is a serviceable part located inside the tranny oil pan. Love to know what tranny fluid others have successfully used on the 9-3 2.8 turbo v6 …hope this helps track down your hard shifting.
Frank
2006 9-3 aero 2.8t 6spd auto transmission
My 2011 Saab 9-3 hasn't had it's transmission fluid changed ever and it's around 101k miles should I replace it or is it too late? Really looking for advice
its never too late lmao
Hmmm great video ,what about the gearbox filter ?
Is that gearbox have filter that must be replaced?
i'm not aware
got me thinking about changing that because its impossible for it not to have one
Is it the same process to change trans fluid if it was the v6?
no :(
Great video. I am getting a gearbox malfunction message on my Saab 9.3 2006.. does the mean low fluid level?
Not necessarily lol. Get it scanned with a tech2 before something bad happens
@@AutoAutopsy have codes P0337- crankshaft circuit low, P0750 speed circuit low and P0700 transmission control. Suggests bad crankshaft sensor since engine takes many cranks to fire up?
2.8 plz
will do when the time comes!
Hej, hur känner jag till den kölande oljebönan Aimatic Jag är från Irak Testets diameter Jag vet inte är möjlig Vad betyder HoT och COLD
I put that into translate and it didn't make any sense, sorry.
@Auto Autopsy Hello. Man, thank you for great vid. I'm owner of SAAB 9-5 estate 2.0, 2005. Is trans oil the same for my transmission box? In my country I have Eurol ATF 1100. Can I use it? Your opinion?
I would search online. The 2.3T 9-5's in some years use this same fluid, but i would be vary wary and make sure this works by searching forums first.
@@AutoAutopsy Thank you for answer. But, my Saab has 2.0 Turbo, ecopower engine, not 2.3T.
Be careful not to damage the trans oil drain plug. None of the Saab parts websites say the part is available.
that would be bad haha
5:05 color is not an indicator of fluid vitality. TF will become dark in a few thousand miles. More important to look for sparkles.
Good point! 🙌🏼
Is there any filter to be replaced?
nope
Great video!!
I need to upgrade my sound system in my 05 9-3 aero! Only got 4 speakers! What should I do?!?!
@Mike C previous owner was an old lady who wasn't bothered about sound!
you should have more if it's an aero, that's strange. i would recommend upgrading to the better speaker system that came stock in these cars
@@AutoAutopsy upgrading using original parts? I'd need to add the amps and get some more optical fibre wouldn't I?
Would love to see a video on it or any recommended channel that has done it!
@Mike C only 4!! I checked, 2 on the parcel shelf at the back. 2 in the dash. None in the front doors either! I'm annoyed really as it's an aero!
Check in the compartment on the left side of your trunk. There should be two fiber wires and another set of wires zip tied to the rear driver wheel well. If so, you can find an Arc or an Aero at a salvage yard and take Amp2, the two 6x9s, and the two rear tweeters. Make sure you get the connector that connects the tweeters to the existing 4 1/2” rounds - you will need that - and you will need to remove the rear driver pillar cover and remove the entire rear speaker harness. This is plug and play into the rear fuse box area. To complete the 13 speaker “prestige” package, you will also need the two front tweeters in the left and right side of the dash. To remove and reinstall these, the best way I’ve found is to use a T20 bit with lock pliers. The windshield is too close to get any other tools in there.
When you remove the amp2 in the salvage car, it’s almost guaranteed that you’re going to end up having to break the little clip that holds the two fiber wires together. You can order it from essabparts. Part number 12791220
Once you get everything installed, you’ll need to activate “prestige audio” and “amp2” inside the ICM settings with a Tech2. There’s a directory of people with Tech2s in the saabscene forum. Just search around and you’ll find it. Any authorized service center can do it as well.
Hope this helps!
These vids are great!! Would an 18inch long neck funnel work? Or would it be too short.
Thanks! You’d need something longer unfortunately
I dropped 18" funnel down from top and tip almost went in hole by itself. If top part is plastic and square like mine it goes deep enough
So what atf did you put like the grade level
it's explained in the video bruh
Does this car have transmission oil filter?
not one that needs to be changed
Geat video! Do you know if anyone used "saabtunerscott" from ebay for Stage 1 tuning?
i haven't, but i'd be wary of cheap tunes personally :)
You may have mentioned it, but is this the 5 or 6 speed auto transmission? I'm not even sure if they made the 9-3 2.0t with 5 speed, but I figured I'd ask. Thank you.
5 speed. About 99% of automatic 9-3’s with the 2.0 were 5 speed. I don’t think they added the 6 speed auto to the 2.0 until the last year or two of production/to XWD cars
Hey big bro
My b206 is shifting into gears with a delay (not turbo lag) do u think it’s the trans fluid causing this? Bought it at 136k km it’s at 141k right now
I don’t think it has ever had a trans fluid change
it might be worthwhile to do the fluid if it hasn't been done
how many liters did you use for the transmission? saludos
It’s all stated in the video.
Sorry no speak inglis
@@ericbrizuela2049 3 litros
@@AutoAutopsy No it is not. She asked how many litres. You talk about "qarts"??not litres, so please, to all citizins of Europe(Saab)..
Lol So much easier on the 9-5! Great demo, though! Always wondered where the dipstick was on a 2.0 lol
lol yeah, weird spot for sure!
So that's the only place to check the transmission fluid??
Jacob, did you have to change the drain plug gasket? Esaab wants $12 for a tiny little gasket! Just wanna make sure I’m doing this right the first time.
I didn’t change the gasket :)
@@AutoAutopsy Ok, thank you!! 🙂
Hi. Thanks (again :-) for a super good video on how to do an ATF change. I am planning to do one myself, and I was wondering if anybody has tried using a vacuum pump for getting the ATF out? It seems like an easy way to get the job done. I will refill using a 12 mm (or so) aluminum pipe with a funnel on top. I will repeat 3 times x 3 litres approx- and if the vacuum method only draws out a small amount of ATF, I will get down under the car and use the drain plug instead :-)
I know it's been a while, but did you ever determine whether you can use a vacuum pump to do this job?
Price for oil is amazing.
Here in Australia auto transmission fluid cost hundreds of dollars
yeah, i was pleasantly surprised by the price
Yeah right 😂!!
Awesome video Jacob 🙂, tho I think I cringed just a little seeing engine fluid on your hand. The fresh fluid going through the tube was cool. Did you partake in any snow fun up in Flagstaff? It's wild to think you're 2 hours south living in Phoenix from Flagstaff, and Northern Arizona got pounded with snow. Is the 1999 9-3 video going to be uploaded? No rush.
the 1999 video was already posted a couple of weeks ago! no snow for me unfortunately lol
Is it the same for the 2.8?
As stated at the start of the video, it is not the same! :)
Just did this finally with the nice Toyota ATF, but I don't recommend doing it in the rain, in the dark, while your fucking ford ranger that doesn't work is taking up your garage space.. lol.. I am replacing the crankshaft position sensor tomorrow because I still was having issues.. oh yeah and don't do it while on an uneven surface because my stuff was jacked up lol.. but this fluid is way better than the universals.. the viscosity is way higher with the Toyota. I also got 8 quarts.
Have you ever done the 6mt?
i have not
Nice informative video
Thanks!
Odd. Why does WIS tell us to pop the trans lines loose and use the IV and tubing method?
Your method is far easier.
My shop is going to miss the work this year...lol
lol idk, i was reading through wis too and was wondering why' maybe it's to drain extra fluid or something, idk.
@@AutoAutopsy it was certainly the weirdest instructions ever. Paraphrasing.
"Set up an IV transfusion apparatus with 3 quarts of fluid, insert IV transfusion hose into transmission, start car...shut car off just as the fluid is emptied"
Betting the Swedes were rolling on the floor laughing after coming up with that one.
I have saab 93 2004 for 10 years I'm so sad to say good bay engine done ..saab forever
:((
Mobil ATF 3309 is the one that's recommended
Saab WIS says to use mineral oil based only
3309 is type t-iv
yep, that'll work too
If you just drain it and refill, you should do that at least 3 times to replace the majority of the oil. Remember that only a bit drains out this way, most will still reside in the matrix (I know When you just drain the automatic box on a Volvo 940, only 2 liter of the total of 7 liters is coming out) There are better ways to replace all the oil at once, but that involves a more time consuming proces.
yes, I mentioned that in this video! definitely the best way to do it. with these, about 75%+ of the fluid drains out
V4 or V 6 engine
this is an inline four cylinder..
Nice
:)
Did you need to program the ATF?
program?
@@AutoAutopsy yeah
When refilling Oil not Refill gearbox from top😂. Refill oil lewel screw
I wish I'd got that Toyota oil my mobil 3309 cost me £17 per litre
jeez :(
I have no idea why I clicked on this considering mine is the 6 speed
huehuehue
the car uses Toyota transmission fluid because the transmission is a Toyota transmission (made by Aisin in Japan)
You should actually change the oil throughout the system, not just the gearbox oil pan.
and that can be done by doing another flush, as i said in the video!
Toyota T-IV tranny fluid is stamped on my dipstick.
👍🏼👍🏼
You are doing this wrong dude... aisin manual for oil change for saab is ment to be done as FLUSH CHANGE !!!!
---- owner of 14 saabs.....
Huh? I didn't do anything wrong lol!
how are you doing, can someone tell us
How many litres oil needed?
Does this automatic transmission have an oil filter? Thx.
Nope only internally which isn’t serviceable