Nice straight to the point video. The only part I wish you would add is changing out the strut mounts and strut bearings and if you can disassemble the strut. If you're on going to put a new shock absorber in it that top nut can be a pain.
Torque specs, per Identifix: Upper strut/shock mounting 14 Ft.-lbs (Personally, I would probably put some medium thread lock on there) Lower strut/shock mounting 59 Ft.-lbs (After tightening, turn an additional 135°) I can't seem to find official torque specs for upper and lower sway bar end linkage nuts, I see several YT videos saying it's 47 ft-lb, that seems like a good number to me.
Good video. My only observation is when using any impact driver please use and recommend only using impact sockets. The chrome vanadium sockets you’re using can shatter with the high torque an impact driver exerts. Best of luck.
@@imanwan2861 3 months late but B6 if you're not lowering the car and B8 if you're lowering the car. B8 is specifically made for springs that lowers your car. I'm installing B6 on my -02 Aero Cabriolet soon
Question here... I know little late to the party... When putting back together I noticed you didnt torque any of the bolts down? The WIS calls for certain torque specs. Is it generally not needed and just make sure they are snug? I mean technically wheel lugs should be torqued but usually people just use air gun?
The correct method is to torque everything as specified in the service manual, and if you area a beginner i would suggest so while taking care of the torque wrench sitting, cause thats another risk if u sit it wrong. If your hands already been in this business long enough, you already developed a feel of how much torque each fastener required. I still torque some fasteners using a torque wrench, like u mentioned the lug bolts, or any internal engine component , any fastener that holds a gasket or a washer, axle nuts ...etc
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks man much appreciated! The saab work u do on here is phenomenal and great info for DIYers because there is just not a lot of mechanics around in MI that know enough to work on these cars.
Hey Filip, i actually suggest changing the whole assembly with a pre-assembled one .. with the multiple parts in the assembly, once the strut fails all the other parts are near the end of life. If however you still want to extract the shocks out, i think buying a sit of spring compressor is a cheap enough now days, or alternately you might be able to find a garage that will let you use their compressor just to extract them out and put the new ones in. Good luck
no point in taking the risk. if you try to save money and end up cooking your tyres, you'll spend 4x as much for a pair of front tyres and then have do an alignment anyway.
If it is OEM the correct size is 18mm for the counter-hold from behind , if it is aftermarket then there must be a hole in the bolt itself to inert a hex or torx head and counter hold it while spinning the nut with a wrench
A P it doesnt matter, as long as u counter-hold the bolt while tightening the nut .. sway links dont squeak usually, they knock when the r worn out, not sure how u figured out the squeak source ..
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I've done this job before but will be replacing springs and top bearings on my Aero tomorrow. This video is a great refresher course. Thank 😊🙏.
just done my wifes C3 springs....ugh job....got both springs to do on my 93,so will look forward to this on Monday.
Nice straight to the point video. The only part I wish you would add is changing out the strut mounts and strut bearings and if you can disassemble the strut. If you're on going to put a new shock absorber in it that top nut can be a pain.
You make it look so simple to do. Good job.
Torque specs, per Identifix:
Upper strut/shock mounting 14 Ft.-lbs (Personally, I would probably put some medium thread lock on there)
Lower strut/shock mounting 59 Ft.-lbs (After tightening, turn an additional 135°)
I can't seem to find official torque specs for upper and lower sway bar end linkage nuts, I see several YT videos saying it's 47 ft-lb, that seems like a good number to me.
👍👍
Thanks for the video! Easy job minus the sway bar link bolt I had to cut off due to rust.
I used friends DeWalt impact like this one and that thing is no joke, works great.
Good video. My only observation is when using any impact driver please use and recommend only using impact sockets. The chrome vanadium sockets you’re using can shatter with the high torque an impact driver exerts.
Best of luck.
Easy peasy! Thanks for the demo!
Had all mine changed to Bilsteins - make a big difference on my Aero convertible
Great videos 👌
Hi, did you replace it with B6 or B8 Bilsteins?
@@imanwan2861 3 months late but B6 if you're not lowering the car and B8 if you're lowering the car. B8 is specifically made for springs that lowers your car. I'm installing B6 on my -02 Aero Cabriolet soon
@@autovereuw Thanks. I'm going to get a B8 for my Combi this week.
@@imanwan2861 Good luck!
Nice video.
What kind of symptoms were you having before you changed the struts and shocks?
Nthn just aging
Great vid,thanks you!
Question, I am looking for a cordless impact wrench. How much torque nm do I need for most of the bolts when working on the suspension?
Med torque wrenches will not cut it from any brand , get a high torque one regardless of the brand or the model should be fine
Torque all bolts to factory specs!!!
U can use a socket with an alen wrench through the center, thats what i do
I understand u r talking about the sway links .. not on the oem links though
👏👏👏
Superb video and instruction quality!
Question here... I know little late to the party... When putting back together I noticed you didnt torque any of the bolts down? The WIS calls for certain torque specs. Is it generally not needed and just make sure they are snug? I mean technically wheel lugs should be torqued but usually people just use air gun?
The correct method is to torque everything as specified in the service manual, and if you area a beginner i would suggest so while taking care of the torque wrench sitting, cause thats another risk if u sit it wrong.
If your hands already been in this business long enough, you already developed a feel of how much torque each fastener required.
I still torque some fasteners using a torque wrench, like u mentioned the lug bolts, or any internal engine component , any fastener that holds a gasket or a washer, axle nuts ...etc
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks man much appreciated! The saab work u do on here is phenomenal and great info for DIYers because there is just not a lot of mechanics around in MI that know enough to work on these cars.
power tools are the only way to go. There's no down side to going faster and easier on your joints. unless you like to bogie them. my friend.
👏👍
You have to compress the spring in order to get the strut off, and you need a special tool for that, which many people dont have.
Hey Filip, i actually suggest changing the whole assembly with a pre-assembled one .. with the multiple parts in the assembly, once the strut fails all the other parts are near the end of life.
If however you still want to extract the shocks out, i think buying a sit of spring compressor is a cheap enough now days, or alternately you might be able to find a garage that will let you use their compressor just to extract them out and put the new ones in.
Good luck
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY quick question: you can change out shock/spring assembly (McPherson/quick struts) on a 1999 Saab 9-3?
Is it absolutely necessary to do a wheel alignment after strut replacement?
Only if the car starts to drift to one side after the replacement ..
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thank you. Enjoy all your videos and as a 1st time Saab owner they are a life line for DIY maintenance:):)!
no point in taking the risk. if you try to save money and end up cooking your tyres, you'll spend 4x as much for a pair of front tyres and then have do an alignment anyway.
Same for 2010?
Yaa
My sway bar end link bolt just keeps spinning at the top. I tried putting a 15mm wrench up in there and it just spins. What should I do?
If it is OEM the correct size is 18mm for the counter-hold from behind , if it is aftermarket then there must be a hole in the bolt itself to inert a hex or torx head and counter hold it while spinning the nut with a wrench
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY how tight is the bearing when you try and move it by hand?
A P it is tight, but u can move it
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thanks. mine moves as well but makes a little squeeky noise. not sure if I tightened the main strut bolt too tight
A P it doesnt matter, as long as u counter-hold the bolt while tightening the nut .. sway links dont squeak usually, they knock when the r worn out, not sure how u figured out the squeak source ..
Hi can you tell me where you placed the car stand and what part underneath. Please
Any part of the subframe
Don't know your born ,try that on a rust belt vehicle 😂