LOL. Sorry, Bro. Even PLA takes time to really understand what the printer is doing and what levers you have to improve the result. If you have an Ender 3, you found the best video on RUclips. Do not discount how important the all metal cold end is...the hole where the extruder pushes the filament where it bridges to the bowden tube is much shorter than the plastic stock one. You will not get past the extruder gear without a mod here.
Just a note on the term “skirt”. My understanding is a skirt is a separate perimeter line made around the print to prime the nozzle and also provide reference for bed leveling before the print goes on. A brim like on a hat is attached to the model and more in line with what you’re referring to help adhesion to the bed.
Just wanted to say thank you for the information. My very first attempt at tpu with the ender 3 pro turned out flawless based on your settings . Thank you and I appreciate the useful video.
Slow and steady wins the race when using TPU on Bowden. I've been able to use mine with all stock parts with fairly soft TPU and I've got everything going smooth. Just takes some time to hone things in.
Thanks for sharing all this! This is very good stuff for people that is just starting to print. I pass on that beer bottle cap, who takes that amount of time to cap a beer?
I run TPU on my Anet A8. Direct drive definitely makes it easy. I successfully print TPU at 200°C nozzle and at ambient on the bed with glass and glue stick. I have even pushed it to speeds of 40mm/s on the walls and infill. My biggest challenge is some bed issues I keep having where the center seems to be higher than my corners. About to switch it a three point leveling to alleviate that issue hopefully.
My Prusa printer handles TPU better with it being direct drive. It does help a lot. I still prefer to keep the speeds slow when printing with TPU as I get much better results and lower failure rates.
Good information, thank you. Did you know this though? Hydroscopic has to do with viewing objects below the surface of water, for instance by means of an instrument (a hydroscope). Hygroscopic has to do with the ability of a substance to absorb water.
Srsly, with your Settings (most of them, changed a little bit)... it's just printing like PLA with some Strings in my case. Just perfect. Edit: In my Case i need to take an really high Print temperature (200° to 220° listed on product sheet, reality ~230°) to prevent an constipation.
"everything else is stock" after completely disregarding the MOST CRUCIAL UPGRADE FOR TPU ON AN ENDER 3, THE FUCKING CAPRICORN XS PTFE TUBE... its literally the only thing about the printer which is allowing consistent TPU printing, and its also the only upgrade you failed to mention im only 1.41 in though, maybe you remembered at a later point, but i decided to just go for the yelling and forget about it
Biggest help I think is converting to direct drive and getting a good linear advance tune for TPU. I'm not sure you could ever get linear advance tuned right with Bowden and tpu so you'll be stuck printing at 20mms max. But with direct drive you can get this to 40-50 pretty easily. Tuned linear advance helps a lot with stringing too, I get very little now. I am using klipper also not sure if the smooth pressure advance klipper uses is helping also, perhaps.
I have a direct drive printer and agree it does print TPU better than Bowden setup. But this was to show it's possible to print TPU on a Bowden setup if that's all you have. Personally I don't often print in TPU, but if I do have to I tend to go with direct drive.
I batch print TPU items on my Ender 3 for a games console every few months to sell. I have never had any problems with using a glass bed. I did use an altered extruder to stop the tpu curling as it went into the bowden tube but that's all.
"Grammatically speaking, the plural for octopus is octopuses. As the Merriam-Webster dictionary points out, people use three different terms, however: octopi, octopuses, and octopodes. While “octopi” has become popular in modern usage, it's wrong."
Im interesting to print clay. So can I using 3D printer to modify upscale? Cause in my country (Thailand) Don't have much to choice 3D printer so much. ENDER3 may be my good choice.
Great video. Just one question, when you change back to PLA, how are you removing the TPU from the printer? Do you retract it with the extruder stepper, so do it manually? Thanks 😀 👍
When going from TPU to PLA I unload the TPU but keep the hot end temp at TPU temperature and then load PLA in. For me the TPU temp is higher than my PLA temp. Then I feed in about 50mm of PLA to push out the left over TPU in the hot end. If you have any cleaning filament you can run this through to remove any TPU leftover. Hope this helps
You can just pause the video and enter the settings from the video in to one of your existing profiles. You should then have a good starting point to work from
I printed on my ender 3 pro flexible, withoud any upgrades. I did have the problem that where it pushes the fillament in, with tpu it folded there somethimes (only at first layers). This made the print fail, or look bad). A little harder flexible fillament just worked perfectly on my stock printer and did not have the problem (used TPE for that)
You are awesome!!! I was trying to print with TPU on an Ender3 and there were only failures. After using your profile I get clean prints! Thank you very much!!!
Thanks for the tips mate, been struggling with tpu, bought a ender 3 v2 and prints were a little better but not much. Stuck your settings in and so far so good. Earned my sub 👍🏻
@@Abernus69 thanks for the tips. I had a little bit of stringing but nothing major, worked very well. Before i was having failed prints that would separate layers etc so gave up for a while lol
It's hardly far from stock. Changed the PTFE tube to Capricorn, changed the print bed springs to stiffer ones. Had to change the feeder gear as the plastic one snapped. On the whole the configuration of the printer is still the same, still Bowden setup. The main challenges in TPU printing is in the Bowden setup, direct drive is the better method for TPU printing.
I have found a number of spools from different brands have not been totally dry out of the bag as well. Also having tension on the spool when trying to print will cause the filament to stretch and give you inconsistent prints.
Hey I have 2 ideas you can try on the phone case you should try to flip and print with the support inside the phone case where the phone goes and 2 I’ve heard combing causes stringing you should try without it! I’ve tried and was successfull but I also haven’t tried it out the most
Your settings worked just fine with the Artillery Genius. The only two things that I modified were the printing speed (15mm/s) and left the retraction ON. This printer has direct drive so shouldn't be a problem. Thanks
@@Abernus69 i didnt see a screen grab or anything of the settings, your delivery was like watching paint dry on paint. I'm sorry bro i have a low attention span. i was fast forwarding looking for a screen grab or sothing. looking for
Can you please let me know, which filament you use, because I tried ERYONE 3 time no luck (temp 200, as recommended by the producer) Thanks for you video, but up to now no success (have a redex Extruder)
I have also used Eryone PLA and I tend to print mine at 215 for the first layer and then 210 for the rest of the print and I have had jvery good results. Don't forget to calibrate your printer for the filamnet. I fouhnd printing the 20mm test clube was the best way to calibrate everything.
Did you get rid of your CTC Bizer? I really did enjoy yjose videos beause I have one and STILL using it. I put a 1.3 SKR with 2210 drivers in it when the old board blew and thanks to your videos I got it running a fair few months ago. Thank you dude and will keep watching your videos
Hi, yes I dismantled it as I had no room for it anymore. I now run a Prusa i3 MK3S and Creality Ender 3 Pro. The CTC was a good machine and was great for learning on, but it's time came.
I have not sanded TPU, however it seems to be somewhat resistant to abrasives like sandpaper. I have read that putting you print in the freezer for a few hours then sanding works. Once your print warms up it goes back to how it used to be.
This was a great video I have a project i am working on my dad wants me to make coasters out of TPU for our beach house. What settings would you say I put it on? Or should I just play round with the settings? Do you have any tips you can give me? The coasters are square with the name of the beach on them. Thank you and great video again
If theses will be to put hot drinks on then I would do a small simple test using my settings as a starting point to see how the coasters hold up. Not all filaments are the same but my settings should at lasts get you a print. With TPU the best thing is to just print slow, a print that takes longer is better than a print that fails. Good luck and I hope it works for you.
In Cura if you look at your Travel options you will find it under there. If it's not there you have not enabled it, simply sarch for retraction in the settings under the Travel section. This can be done by hovering your mouse over the Travel bar on the left side and clicking on the slider looking icon to bring up the settings for that section.
Yes you can. The basic operation of my machine is still the same as stock, same Bowden setup etc. Just use my settings as a starting point and if needed refine from there. Just make sure your filename is dry and print slow.
bought tpu as my first filament. should of went with pla first.
Yeah pla is much much easier to use first time
LOL. Sorry, Bro. Even PLA takes time to really understand what the printer is doing and what levers you have to improve the result. If you have an Ender 3, you found the best video on RUclips. Do not discount how important the all metal cold end is...the hole where the extruder pushes the filament where it bridges to the bowden tube is much shorter than the plastic stock one. You will not get past the extruder gear without a mod here.
This video is so high quality I'm surprised you don't have more subs even though you deserve it
just wanted to show appreciation for using cura to make it accessible! I really love when ppl make their tutorials financially accessible
Just a note on the term “skirt”. My understanding is a skirt is a separate perimeter line made around the print to prime the nozzle and also provide reference for bed leveling before the print goes on. A brim like on a hat is attached to the model and more in line with what you’re referring to help adhesion to the bed.
I always get those two mixed up.
Both are adhesion methods
Just wanted to say thank you for the information. My very first attempt at tpu with the ender 3 pro turned out flawless based on your settings .
Thank you and I appreciate the useful video.
Slow and steady wins the race when using TPU on Bowden. I've been able to use mine with all stock parts with fairly soft TPU and I've got everything going smooth. Just takes some time to hone things in.
Like how slow I have some tpu I want to play with
Thanks for this high quality stuff!!
Thanks for sharing all this! This is very good stuff for people that is just starting to print. I pass on that beer bottle cap, who takes that amount of time to cap a beer?
I run TPU on my Anet A8. Direct drive definitely makes it easy. I successfully print TPU at 200°C nozzle and at ambient on the bed with glass and glue stick. I have even pushed it to speeds of 40mm/s on the walls and infill. My biggest challenge is some bed issues I keep having where the center seems to be higher than my corners. About to switch it a three point leveling to alleviate that issue hopefully.
My Prusa printer handles TPU better with it being direct drive. It does help a lot. I still prefer to keep the speeds slow when printing with TPU as I get much better results and lower failure rates.
Very informative video. You described everything in very simple manner 👍🏽.
Dude, i have to thank you for your settings, it''s really improved my TPU print 10fold.....what was a horrible print is now on point thanks to you
That's called a brim, a skirt doesn't touch the part. Well according to cura
Good informative video, feel like giving it a try now 👍
Where'd you get the STL for the wallet
Good information, thank you. Did you know this though?
Hydroscopic has to do with viewing objects below the surface of water, for instance by means of an instrument (a hydroscope). Hygroscopic has to do with the ability of a substance to absorb water.
Srsly, with your Settings (most of them, changed a little bit)... it's just printing like PLA with some Strings in my case. Just perfect.
Edit: In my Case i need to take an really high Print temperature (200° to 220° listed on product sheet, reality ~230°) to prevent an constipation.
Great video! I’m new to 3D printing and Cura. How do I set Cura to not cross perimeters?
looking for the same thing
"everything else is stock" after completely disregarding the MOST CRUCIAL UPGRADE FOR TPU ON AN ENDER 3, THE FUCKING CAPRICORN XS PTFE TUBE... its literally the only thing about the printer which is allowing consistent TPU printing, and its also the only upgrade you failed to mention
im only 1.41 in though, maybe you remembered at a later point, but i decided to just go for the yelling and forget about it
that hand print is awesome! great video and explanation! well done mate! I just subscribed...
Too much fun Dude, video turned out well. Keep dropping them
Biggest help I think is converting to direct drive and getting a good linear advance tune for TPU.
I'm not sure you could ever get linear advance tuned right with Bowden and tpu so you'll be stuck printing at 20mms max. But with direct drive you can get this to 40-50 pretty easily. Tuned linear advance helps a lot with stringing too, I get very little now.
I am using klipper also not sure if the smooth pressure advance klipper uses is helping also, perhaps.
I have a direct drive printer and agree it does print TPU better than Bowden setup. But this was to show it's possible to print TPU on a Bowden setup if that's all you have.
Personally I don't often print in TPU, but if I do have to I tend to go with direct drive.
I use retraction to avoid the stringing
Running the Micro Swiss direct drive kit but haven't tried TPU yet. I wonder if the direct drive would have more success?
Direct drive is better for TPU. Not sure if my settings would work for direct drive or not
I batch print TPU items on my Ender 3 for a games console every few months to sell. I have never had any problems with using a glass bed. I did use an altered extruder to stop the tpu curling as it went into the bowden tube but that's all.
Did you mod the original extruder? If so how?
@@xxlabratxx01 ruclips.net/video/az7pysnV_MY/видео.html This was two years ago, still working today.
@@slicedpage cheers!!! I'll check it out now
love the shirt
I used your settings and wow ,done an amazing print , thanks 🙏 👍
Hey, I bought an used ender 3 pro that just came with that extruder. Did you change the e step?
thank you for your settings, it''s really improved my TPU print GOOD VIDEO THANKS
Glad they have helped you. Happy printing.
Waiting my filament to arrive and let you know if it works with a twotrees. Thanks
Very Good! Thanks for video!
can you speak a bit faster? I think you are talking a bit slow....
you can tie it in a not but it is hard to print with bowden tube (same tune as whatever the bunny song thingy is)
-
Allen Barbara Thompson Brian Rodriguez Jose
Bro is a legend thank you🔥🔥🔥
as a troll in a good taste. Octopi is the plural. Great video btw.
"Grammatically speaking, the plural for octopus is octopuses. As the Merriam-Webster dictionary points out, people use three different terms, however: octopi, octopuses, and octopodes. While “octopi” has become popular in modern usage, it's wrong."
Im interesting to print clay. So can I using 3D printer to modify upscale? Cause in my country (Thailand) Don't have much to choice 3D printer so much. ENDER3 may be my good choice.
thank you! I appreciate the information!
Keep up this channel! Your pro and will get a bunch more subs
Vacuum seal after dehydrating for storage if not using right away again.
Yup, this stuff absorbs moisture. I keep mine in a Mylar bag with a few packs of desiccant.
TPU 95A helps with Ender.
I bought the sunlu filament dryer on Amazon and that works great for drying and drying while printing.
I just bought 2 of them while they were on sale as well
Great video. Just one question, when you change back to PLA, how are you removing the TPU from the printer? Do you retract it with the extruder stepper, so do it manually? Thanks 😀 👍
When going from TPU to PLA I unload the TPU but keep the hot end temp at TPU temperature and then load PLA in. For me the TPU temp is higher than my PLA temp. Then I feed in about 50mm of PLA to push out the left over TPU in the hot end. If you have any cleaning filament you can run this through to remove any TPU leftover. Hope this helps
@@Abernus69 Thanks 😀👍
I too still prefer s3d, do you have an fff profile for Sunlu TPU on an Ender3 Pro?
You can just pause the video and enter the settings from the video in to one of your existing profiles. You should then have a good starting point to work from
Thanks for sharing your results, I found it a bloody nightmare to work with TPU but will try again soon with the things I learned here.
It's a fun material, but yes it can be a pain in the ass. Just make sure your filament is dry.
A video worth watching 👍
I printed on my ender 3 pro flexible, withoud any upgrades. I did have the problem that where it pushes the fillament in, with tpu it folded there somethimes (only at first layers). This made the print fail, or look bad). A little harder flexible fillament just worked perfectly on my stock printer and did not have the problem (used TPE for that)
What brand of TPU did you use?
You are awesome!!! I was trying to print with TPU on an Ender3 and there were only failures. After using your profile I get clean prints! Thank you very much!!!
Thanks for the tips mate, been struggling with tpu, bought a ender 3 v2 and prints were a little better but not much. Stuck your settings in and so far so good. Earned my sub 👍🏻
The settings are not the best but should give you a good starting point. Just make sure your TPU stays dry when not in use
@@Abernus69 thanks for the tips. I had a little bit of stringing but nothing major, worked very well. Before i was having failed prints that would separate layers etc so gave up for a while lol
Can what are the exact settings thank you.
Very helpful, thanks
Thanks 👍👌
ADD YOUR TRADEMARK AND SELL!!!
hold up you play smash bros 😁
Thanks
Just got some tpu today video =helped lot
Have fun printing with TPU. I love the stuff
Thanks but, basically your printer is far from being a stock. I am still looking for videos of stock V2 printing TPU
It's hardly far from stock. Changed the PTFE tube to Capricorn, changed the print bed springs to stiffer ones. Had to change the feeder gear as the plastic one snapped. On the whole the configuration of the printer is still the same, still Bowden setup. The main challenges in TPU printing is in the Bowden setup, direct drive is the better method for TPU printing.
How do you find the prints to differ with Simplify3D vs Cura when using TPU?
Thank you.
Yeah i think my main problem is the tension on the spool and the fact that i expected ninjaflex to be delivered dry....
I have found a number of spools from different brands have not been totally dry out of the bag as well.
Also having tension on the spool when trying to print will cause the filament to stretch and give you inconsistent prints.
How do you keep nozzle within print to avoid stringing? Great video
Apparently "combing" and retraction settings are important - also having dry filament!
@@purerizzo It definitively reduce string all around
Hey I have 2 ideas you can try on the phone case you should try to flip and print with the support inside the phone case where the phone goes and 2 I’ve heard combing causes stringing you should try without it! I’ve tried and was successfull but I also haven’t tried it out the most
wave bracelt looks funky to try but when i slice it looks solid like a disc ?
Your settings worked just fine with the Artillery Genius. The only two things that I modified were the printing speed (15mm/s) and left the retraction ON. This printer has direct drive so shouldn't be a problem. Thanks
change of colour on the rocket is the speed change of the nozzle
so what are the settings? never actually said temperature and flow rate!!!!
Did you watch the video? All settings are displayed in the video.
@@Abernus69 i didnt see a screen grab or anything of the settings, your delivery was like watching paint dry on paint. I'm sorry bro i have a low attention span. i was fast forwarding looking for a screen grab or sothing. looking for
@@coolcat_jay54 well find another video if you don't like my content. No loss
Hold the phone... where did you get that shirt??? I found that exact same one at a thrift store and have been wondering where it's from for FOREVER.
It came from with a past Zavvi Xbox or a past LootCrate
Octopi *
Octopi *
Can you please let me know, which filament you use, because I tried ERYONE 3 time no luck (temp 200, as recommended by the producer) Thanks for you video, but up to now no success (have a redex Extruder)
I have also used Eryone PLA and I tend to print mine at 215 for the first layer and then 210 for the rest of the print and I have had jvery good results. Don't forget to calibrate your printer for the filamnet. I fouhnd printing the 20mm test clube was the best way to calibrate everything.
Why in TPU printing, The crealty best than ultimaker and takes little filament?
Did you get rid of your CTC Bizer? I really did enjoy yjose videos beause I have one and STILL using it. I put a 1.3 SKR with 2210 drivers in it when the old board blew and thanks to your videos I got it running a fair few months ago. Thank you dude and will keep watching your videos
Hi, yes I dismantled it as I had no room for it anymore. I now run a Prusa i3 MK3S and Creality Ender 3 Pro.
The CTC was a good machine and was great for learning on, but it's time came.
Thanks👍
Sub'd ✌️
Thank you!
do you mean hygroscopic?
thanks
I like the phone case idea, can you sand tpu to give it a smoother texture?
I have not sanded TPU, however it seems to be somewhat resistant to abrasives like sandpaper. I have read that putting you print in the freezer for a few hours then sanding works. Once your print warms up it goes back to how it used to be.
This was a great video I have a project i am working on my dad wants me to make coasters out of TPU for our beach house. What settings would you say I put it on? Or should I just play round with the settings? Do you have any tips you can give me? The coasters are square with the name of the beach on them. Thank you and great video again
If theses will be to put hot drinks on then I would do a small simple test using my settings as a starting point to see how the coasters hold up. Not all filaments are the same but my settings should at lasts get you a print. With TPU the best thing is to just print slow, a print that takes longer is better than a print that fails. Good luck and I hope it works for you.
They will be made for cold drinks and I will try to slow the print down thank you for responding back
Excelente video. Súper claro, saludos desde Argentina 👏
What kind of tpu is that blue roll?
Awesome
Looks like you upgraded you bowden tube to a Capricorn as well, or are those stock these days?
Yes I totally forgot about the PTFE tube upgrade. Capricorn is not stock, however I think it should be.
Where do you change the retreating settings?
In Cura if you look at your Travel options you will find it under there. If it's not there you have not enabled it, simply sarch for retraction in the settings under the Travel section. This can be done by hovering your mouse over the Travel bar on the left side and clicking on the slider looking icon to bring up the settings for that section.
love it!!!!!
What brand is your TPU?
I am using Sunlu TPU
Could you print with tpu with an ender 3 pro without any upgrades?
Yes you can. The basic operation of my machine is still the same as stock, same Bowden setup etc. Just use my settings as a starting point and if needed refine from there.
Just make sure your filename is dry and print slow.
@@Abernus69 ok thanks
awesome videos! thanks!
Where can I get gcode for the drawer in this machine ?
Thank you
Sorry for the delay, not been feeling to well. You can find this tray on thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3162464
@@Abernus69 thank uou
Very good
Hi Abernus69, excellent video and a new sub here. Did you say that we should be able to see your settings for Cura🤔as I am unable to? many thanks.
Hi, yes the settings are in the video itself
@@Abernus69 So the settings that you mention for Cura and talk about are the only settings that you supply🤔
@@helihubby you will see the settings as I put them up on the screen for you to make a note of.
@@Abernus69 I must be missing something sorry as I can't see you put anything up after watching several times and even on my phone???
Go to 3:40 on the video and you will see I put all the settings up on the screen
Great Stuff
me chanle good
hygroscopic not hydro. easy mistake.