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How to improve printing TPU on Ender 3 V2 and other Bowden Printers - reduce or remove stringing.
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- Опубликовано: 18 авг 2024
- I have formulated a simple 3 step process that you can run when you get a new reel of TPU filament, to get the best out of each reel, since they seem to vary so much!
So watch it and hopefully this 13:35 (I know...I should have added 2 seconds of blank space..) video will save you hours of guesswork on how to print TPU on your ender 3 or whatever bowden printer you have (actually it should work on direct drive too).
Chapters:
0:00 - intro
0:30 - about online TPU settings
0:44 - rhinos!
0:50 - The not so calibration TPU octopus and why it's not a good indicator
2:01 - bad results
2:33 - calibration EEVEEs
3:12 - What's the difference between Bowden and Direct Drive 3d printers?
3:50 - why TPU is hard with Bowden?
4:23 - installing the calibration parts plugin
5:16 - baseline TPU settings - cura settings for TPU printing that generally work
6:20 - How to print a retraction distance calibration tower in cura
7:50 - How to print a temperature tower in cura
8:33 - How to print a retraction speed calibration tower in cura
9:20 - Why you may need to roll back the settings a bit from the best ones
9:28 - Why TPU bends in the extruder or pops out of the side or spins without moving
10:40 - Final settings
10:52 - Before and after the process.
11:07 - Why would you actually even print TPU with retraction turned off?
12:55 - Wrap up and conclusion.
Please comment, subscribe, etc, etc. Videos around every 1-2 weeks or sometimes a bit longer if I get bogged down in editing but you get the idea!
Credits:
Music: Ouroboros Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons....
I think this is the first video I've seen that doesn't just give the conventional "Turn off retraction with flexibles, it'll never work" advice. After seeing that print at the end, 🤯. Now I'm looking forward to trying this out when I get my TPU
Don't turn off retraction! 👍😠🤣
I have another video in the works that investigates why turning off retraction actually causes more blockages so stay tuned for that!! 🤔
I like this video
I love it when I randomly discover high quality youtube content from people without many subscribers, it's like finding hidden treasure lol.
Thanks for the useful video, about to attempt printing TPU for the first time on my ender 3 v2 so these tips are going to come in handy. Subbed and looking forward to future content
I think your comment got moderated for 4 days or something, it just appeared today! I hope the TPU printing went well, thanks for the encouraging comments :)
Yes. and so do I.. Driven by knowledge not ad hits ;)
@@AkiraFurball Ditto to the extreme. There are just too many greedy people that would rather put ads than give a really good presentation.
I'd say 21k subs isnt a small amount. If you want small, check out my count lol.
Haha I wasn't 21k subs when this conversation was going on 😉
Followed the advice in all 4 of your TPU tips videos and got some pretty good results. I'm printing on a stock Ender 3 Pro with the only mod being a side mounted bearing filament roller. I'm using some Chinese Longer brand translucent green TPU which I believe is 95A. It seems to print pretty easily and despite the filament itself being very squiggly, it really doesn't seem to be very difficult or inconsistent. For most of my initial printing I went straight to 30mm/s print speed and haven't had a failure yet, even with quite high retraction speeds. Here's how I tuned.
I started by printing a retraction tower at 210C 1-9mm of retraction in steps of 2mm at 20mm/s retraction speed. 7mm or 9mm seemed best.
I then printed a temperature tower from 230-200C in steps of 5C with 7mm retraction. 200-210C seemed best, with 200C having the least stringing, but 210C looking perhaps a bit more uniform.
Next was a retraction speed tower at 200C which went from 5-25mm/s retraction in steps of 5mm/s with I believe 9mm of retraction. It really didn't make a huge difference past 10mm/s, but 20mm/s or 25mm/s had the least fine strings.
After that, I went one step further and did a print speed tower. It was a bit harder to setup the code for, but it was printed at 200C and approximately 20-40mm/s in steps of 5mm/s with 10mm of retraction and 20mm/s retraction speed. It honestly looked fairly consistent, but for some reason 25mm/s had the best uniformity and clarity through the translucent filament.
I then printed a few tiny retraction test towers just to confirm my settings, and after some stringing and under extrusion on the small towers, I went back to 210C and 25mm/s retraction and got it to look nearly perfect with just some fine strings. Clarity of the filament looks good.
I couldn't actually figure out if the Ende 3 Pro board works with linear advance commands, so I took a slightly different approach. I decided I wanted to keep the print speed as consistent as possible at all times.
So I sent print speed, wall speed, and top and bottom speed all to 30mm/s with only the initial layer being at 15mm/s. This seems to keep the clarity pretty clear without as much refraction on layers when shining light through the prints.
In order to extra ensure consistent print speed, I set Minimum Layer Time to 5s and Minimum Speed to 15mm/s so that even on a very small layers I don't get a band of filament that was cooked differently.
Lastly I added 0.048mm^3 to Retraction Extra Prime Amount to get the pressure back up after a retraction. Seems to help make sure there is no under extrusion if a layer is small.
Not sure how much wall line count matters yet, but obviously to get a more clear part I'll print fewer walls and to get a stronger part I'll print more. Quality seems consistent. Infill will also just vary based on desired strength and level of squish.
There is still some tuning left in it I'm sure, and this is only for one odd brand of clear TPU filament, but I think I have it pretty dang close. I'll post the relevant final settings below.
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm
Line Width: 0.4mm
Printing Temperature: 210C
Build Plate Temperature: 60C
Print Speed: 25mm/s
Infill Speed: 25mm/s
Wall Speed: 25mm/s
Top/Bottom Speed: 25mm/s
Travel Speed: 300mm/s
Initial Layer Speed: 15mm/s
Skirt/Brim Speed: 15mm/s
Enable Retraction: Yes
Retraction Distance: 10mm
Retraction Speed: 25mm/s
Retraction Extra Prime Amount: 0.048mm^3
Combing Mode: All
Fan Speed: 100%
Initial Fan Speed: 90%
Minimum Layer Time: 5s
Minimum Speed: 15mm/s
I think that about covers it. Just figured I would share that your process works and offer some additional thoughts. Not sure if my approach of trying to keep the speed the same all the time makes the most sense, but it seems to be logical. As long as the printer has plenty of control at a set speed and the filament melts and bonds properly at that speed, no reason to go slower, just don't go faster. Since it's a fairly slow speed as is, layer cooling shouldn't generally be an issue. Especially with a translucent filament, consistency should keep the bubbles and cloudy appearance away even as layers change size. I'll add a reply if I find out anything important with more experience. Thanks for the videos!
Everyone wants speed but honestly it pays to be patient and run at a lower speed to get better quality. Thanks. This is very helpful.
One thing I'll say as someone who is actively improving tpu prints, I just ran a batch print with retraction and z hop, without doing and prior testing to see what settings worked best, and found retraction to be very detrimental to the quality of the print as it made blobs of filament whenever it made a retraction move, but I'll definitely take the advice in this video as a better way to use retraction properly and dial in the settings for my printer
Edit: just starting my next print and just wanted to try using cooling with fan as you mentioned in the video, and it has already helped a decent amount (I think) for making the tpu not bend around as much whenever printing
Edit 2: Thank you for this advice, I ran a couple small test prints with two towers and tried different retraction settings, I found 15 mm of retraction distance for my overture 95a TPU , with 45 mm/s retraction speed, and 200 mm/s of travel speed to be perfect and have no stringing, and I mean not even detectable type stringing on the test print, also no z hop, and ran cooling fan entire time. Thanks again!
My small business has been printing and selling TPU products for a couple of years. I recently bought a new 3D printer - direct drive, of course, because we print a lot of TPU. I was recreating the G code to run on the new printer and it was definitely a case where I had forgotten much of what I previously learned about TPU. I was three progressively better prototypes into the redevelopment process when I decided that I should take a refresher course in TPU, and that's how I found this video. It's mostly a debunking of the common misconceptions that I was re-teaching myself but you got me back up to speed, and convinced me to do what I knew I should do - make some small test pieces to more quickly and efficiently dial in settings to avoid stringing and make the 45 degree overhangs as good as they can possibly be. Thanks for the great video. Your channel is one I've learned to trust for good solid 3D printing information, tips and techniques.
This is a really clear video! I'm surprised you don't have more subscribers clear voice and to the point!
For one that have printed over 100kg tpu and got you dialed. I will from now on recommend this video instead of helping them my self. Only thing that can help improve even more are drying the tpu and most of all tune pa/la.
FYI, regarding the calibrations shapes plug-in, I had trouble matching up the later change settings with what was printed as well. I looked at the help and discovered that it expects certain layer heights for certain shapes. Like, one of the two towers you painted expects a 0.16 layer height. That’s why you had to fiddle with the settings to get it to work at 0.2 layer height. I was much happier with the setup once I found the requirements in the help docs.
Really enjoying your videos!! Great work!
Ah, that makes sense, as opposed to working the other way like I did!
Wow, this is a very nice video and it explained a lot, you definitely deserve many more subscribers. Keep it up!
Thank you! Will do 👍
Methodical - exactly what is needed to eliminate the guess work. I landed on retraction and temp numbers for Priline TPU that I never would have tried (195 C @ 15mm/s & 9mm retraction with Ender 3 V2). Very clean prints. Never had to bother with my normal PLA, but now its time to see if that can be improved too.
This was really helpful! I was shocked that you didn't have at least a few hundred thousand subs- top tier production, man.
Thanks!
This vid certainly is performing better than my last ones, it's a good indication for what sort of thing I need to produce in the future. Onward and hopefully upward!
@@LostInTech3D 100%, the pacing was perfect and if you keep it up you'll do great
Probably because has late to the party. If you look at the really busy channels most of them started years back; when 3D printing was still the preserve of the middle-classes with a few $1000 to burn. The same people now gloat at us and use patreon support to buy even more printers (of get them for free) and do this full time. Some of them, it's alleged, even steal content from other creators.
@@marcdraco2189 late to the party is an understatement, I only really started this year :)
Still, if Creality want to send me any printers...get in touch!!
@@marcdraco2189 If you watch the top tier, almost all of them are sheep jumping imaginary fences.. one of them posts something, gets a shit load of comments and low level sheep jumping the fence they posted, other top tier then post almost exactly the same imaginary fence, convince even more sheep that they need to jump it, and before long all the top tier have posted the same rubbish and the entire community now believe this completely imaginary fence is real and happily jump over it..
One such fence is calibrating e-steps through the hotend, its completely wrong, and very easy to prove, just use a gcode to send the filament at different speeds and you will get different lengths because SPEED is a vital component of flow.. yet they ALL suggest calibrating through the hotend (which is FLOW) and use an arbitrary speed that the LCD menu sends it at which is not even known. Net result, the entire community has e-step set too high..
Its like trying to calculate the cost of 20 apples without knowing the price of an apple!
The game needs more new "Thinkers" like Lost In Tech who work out how to do things based on logic and understanding rather than a bunch of rich kids earning a good living from posting whatever generates revenue and copying what another rich kid posted to do so, they are just screwing the community.
Thats my feelings ;)
The filament dry box and dehydrator were huge game changers for me while printing tpu.
aha, yes, this touches on the topic for a vid I have in progress at the moment!
@@LostInTech3D nice. Really good content btw.
@RyanP thanks!
I followed the guide exactly and did the calibration towers on ender 3 v2 esun black tpu.
I got 220 temp, 9mm retraction distance and 20 for retraction speed. Thanks.
Sounds about the same as I use on sunlu 👍
This worked AWESOME on my (fairly) stock Ender 3 v2. I revisited this and your other TPU video because I'm having trouble since I upgraded to a direct drive extruder with a high-flow hot-end, all running on Klipper. It's been a learning curve but I always find your videos helpful and inspiring!
this helps so much, I will watch again and follow along once my tpu comes in the mail
Tried 64D TPU and this is now my favorite filament! Doing mostly functional prints this is awesome, stuff is almost unbreakable. And it prints so easy... I simply used my PETG profile. Some tweaking to the cooling was all I needed. I run with linear advance AND retracts.
Can you provide a link to this material? Is it the Ultrafuse by BASF? I noticed on their product page they call it 64D TPU, but in the specs it says it has a 58D durometer. How stiff/flexible is it? Would is be semi-flex like PP?
@@strawhatsam Thats the one I bought last, and yeah the I also noticed the specs seems to differ. Hard to describe how stiff it is, but the filament itself is _much_ less flexible than 95A tpu from prusament. If you print fairly solidly, it almost has the feel of a soft skateboard wheel.
Great video! I used your approach to dial in TPU settings for my Ender 3 v2. I'm using SainSmart TPU, and it apparently likes to be printed faster (20mm/s) and at lower temps (205C) than your filament. Regardless of the differences, your approach works. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
Glad it helped!
Watched many videos similar to this trying to figure out how to print with TPU being a complete novice with 3D printing - this is the one that helped me get my first complete print without binding up the filament and creating a stringy mess! Thank you!
glad to hear it helped! 👍
Thank you SO much for this video. This strategy helped me get my TPU settings dialed in in one day and the quality of my prints is significantly better. Keep up the good work, can't wait to see more videos!
Glad to be of help and thanks for the positive comments! :)
Getting a printer soon and printing flexible gaskets will be an important job. Now I get why direct drive is more appropriate, and that''ll help in my selection of printers. Thanks!
Really really amazing video. I am printing with tpu in my ender 5 and the stringing is horrible. I have done all the people say but your explanation is practical, not theorical as others say! I am going to test right away because I loved that material! It is amazing
Thank you for this video - I had never printed with TPU before and because of your extensive dive into the details I was able to print TPU flawlessly with some minor profile changes on an Ender 3 v2 with the capicorn boden tube setup.
This is by far the best and should be the ONLY video anyone needs for TPU, and honestly, this process is the same for all new filaments you buy. Thanks for confirming my suspicions on the fans speed and retraction. There are some really weird guides out there that gave almost the opposite advice that you should follow for printing TPU. Just bizarre.
Make sure you see the second one too where I made equally important discoveries about print speed! :) 👍
@@LostInTech3D was the next video I watched
I was the guy who read online "you don't need retraction" I then printed a small cable holder, and it was nearly just a solid block from 95a leaking from the nozzle. Nice. This killed my dream of not needing a direct drive for TPU. But you're making me have hope again, and I want to try again since my roll has been barely used and just sitting here for weeks. I'll fire back a comment of what I can accomplish!
EDIT: I can't figure it out, I copied your settings because I didn't have a baseline. Started with Retraction distance, can't tell what looks the best, maybe 7-9mm. Did the temp tower, 210 looked the best. Very nice bridge printed, but still full of stringy. I then tried the speed retraction test, and all layers look the same... I'm at a total loss aside from just getting a direct drive and seeing if anything changes
Using: Inland TPU 95A (Micro center special)
POSITIVE UPDATE: Unexpectedly, I modified a few settings and things are starting to look good! Before re-printing a retraction distance tower, I found some other settings from a different video and tested them, I don't remember everything that was changed. BUT. It's looking better. I printed the distance tower, 9mm looked the best, still had stringing, but it wasn't as bad as the rest.
Now on my temp tower, and I unexpectedly saw that 200C was absolutely no stringing. But 205/210 had very, very thin stringing, minimal. Perfect. But 200C Seems way low and the quality was subpar. Very wavy on the surface. Temps are too low and the nozzle is pretty much just dragging the model. So my height is a bit off. Maybe try at 0.28 quality and see..
I'm going to print 3 speed towers, from 215C to 205C and HOPEFULLY. One of those temps will be the end all. Man I've been on a struggle bus with TPU. I hope this works.
Thanks for this vid. Just tried printing TPU for the first time, this past weekend. Managed to get some successful prints, but not before quite a few fails. As you mentioned, so many other videos and articles out there recommend turning off retraction, so I really like how you actually went into detail and actually explained how to work out the best settings for your own printer. Will definitely give your recommended test prints a shot to help improve my TPU printing. Thanks 👍
Ah man I love finding easter eggs with captions turned on
As far as the "don't use retraction" thing goes, the rationale I remember hearing is that since the filament is elastic, the amount of pressure being applied to the nozzle takes a much longer time to stabilize than with solid filaments. The idea is to forgo retraction in favor of maintaining constant pressure in the nozzle, and therefore, a constant rate of extruded material. For the same reason, feedrates for infills, bridges, supports, etc. are nailed down to the same value, so the whole print runs at the same feedrate and the extruder never changes speed (except, you know, every time a layer change happens, or it needs to rapid from one point to another)
In practice, this works well enough to crank out a calibration cube or an octopus, combined with the "don't cross perimeters" setting, but I think it is a pretty naive approach. I think it would be much more promising to fiddle around with Marlin's linear advance feature or Klipper's pressure advance feature. These allow you to de-synchronize the extruder motor from the axis movements, performing extruder movements a split second before feeds to give time for pressure to build up in the nozzle. You can print a test tower for linear advance the same way you do a temperature tower or a retraction tower. I don't think the stock Creality firmware includes it though. You need to run one of the various third party builds.
I haven't tested this yet though because I keep getting knots in my extruder.
There is a fix for some extruders, adding a short piece of PTFE tube, cut to an arrow like point from 2 sides and inserting it into the outer feed opening, to just between the gears.
Thanks for posting your thoughts
What and excellent video and explination. Between this video and your other TPU video I learned so much about printing TPU and using CURA's parts for calibration. My favorite bit of info is the lower speed limit on TPU as I have beend struggling with my .8 nozzle. Results are so much nicer now.
Thank you
Just wanted to pass along my thanks for your video. I recently added two mods to my ender 3 Pro (Micro Swiss NG Direct Drive with all metal hot end and TH3D dual Z with timing belt) and was eager to try a new filament. So tried Creality 95A TPU (I've had really good luck with Creality PLA so stuck with them). I followed your three calibration tests and then printed an EEVEE. Dang it is damn near perfect! Just some wispy strings between the front legs and between the tops of the ears (the ear tops are a tad rough looking, but acceptable). I am printing at the low end of the filament temp range, print speed is 25mm/s, retraction 1mm at 25mm/s, full fan. I even tried your .3mm line width on a .4 nozzle. I'm impressed.
I love that the closed-captions are "a little different" from your voice-over at times.
I've had complaints about that, but I still do it hehehehe
@@LostInTech3D Don't ever change.
A very useful video indeed, especially for someone like me who is still researching which 3D printer to buy. My use will be printing scale parts and accessories for a 1:10 scale RC truck. Some parts will need to be printed in flexible TPU filament. After reading countless blog posts, and watching endless reviews, I was ending up looking ever more expensive 3D printers with direct drive and all metal hot heads which can do 300C, as well as looking at videos with ever more "essential upgrades". This meant I was looking at the wrong side of £470 for a 3D printer, which even then has some limitations
So seeing that you can print TPU on bowden printers, this gives me more choice! At the moment I'm thinking of a Creality Ender 3 Max, which has a nice bed size of 300x300mm, combined with a nice price as well :-)
Wow...i didn't go through the whole benchmarking process, but took some points/settings and applied to my current usable Cura profile and queued a process - i think this is everything i've been looking for! fingers crossed this part comes out w minimal stringing, blobs and plastic pimples!
Glad it helped!
Dude, this is amazing! printing them out now, didnt even know my printer could make such good tpu prints!
Totally can, and if you check out my latest TPU vid with the updated recommendations it's even better, with smooth glassy finish! 👍
I haven’t tried it yet, but wanted to say, thank you for your approach and detail. Ive been close to giving up 3D printing trying to learn from watching some of these “expert” tutorials. And I was pretty sure all youtubers are lying and faking it to get me to use their suggested software or buy their suggested (__fill in the blank__) because I’ve never gotten their alleged results. But your scientific process of dialing it in seems hopeful.
I think the issue is that some printers can be very forgiving while others aren't, and with so many variables it means that copying someone else's "this works for me" is probably not going to work, whereas a "this is how you figure out the right settings" format allows you to understand what you're doing when you tune it.
Definitely food for thought, especially when I make future videos. The 'why' is probably more important than the 'how'.
LostInTech For me, I appreciate the, “why,” and the process of how to arrive at the correct setup, far more than,
“Just plug in these numbers.”
Another very helpful video from Lost in Tech. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!😁
Amazing video, just came across it, I've been having huge issues with the tpu getting knarled up at the extruder gears, thought it was to do with the pressure from the spring at the gears, I'm going to run through all the tests you mention, as with other commenters here its the first time anyone has said keep retraction and cooling on, I've also just subscribed and about to binge watch your other vids, love your detailed and logical explanations. Thank you.
So I have my TPU settings pretty much dialed in for my modified CR-10 v1 setup, but always looking to improve them. Then this video pops up in my suggestions......WOW, one of the best videos on how to use the Calibration Parts plugin. To the point and great info! I've never actually used the Calibration Parts plugin, I always just went about it by trial and error. I'm going to try this over the weekend to see if I can improve my TPU prints for various filaments. Thanks for the info!
Same here, I pretty much just discovered it and thought "people need to know this!" hence the video!
Appreciate the positive feedback, comments like this help me figure out what makes a good video 👍
Excellent video and well edited. Not tool long, gets the job done and shows very good results!
Thanks for posting ! Going to try this method, may well apply to other materials.
This is amazing, I've been struggling for months with TPU and thanks to you I can now have amazing prints! THANK YOU
Micro Swiss direct drive extruder is a simple and affordable fix for Bowden tube issues. I haven't had a clogged nozzle since installing one of these. Bowden tubes are like installing software from CD, why do this anymore.
Great video, I would expect multiple combinations of temperature and retraction settings to be equally successful.
Excellent video. Very well thought out, and presented in an easily consumable format. Thanks a ton for this, I'm new to TPU and this helped substantially. Subscribed!
Your settings are the best settings also for me..... So nice prints in tpu now, thanks! My printer is also ender 3 v2! :)
Used this guide and it works a treat. thanks for taking the time to do the video.
The FPV drone community thanks you! GoPro mounts are always tpu and until now always stringy. A video on the best settings for removable tpu supports would do well.
Side note - Very clear microphone! what are you using?
Noted and put on the list, I have a couple more TPU vids planned in the near future also, one is half done. 👍
microphone is a "Trust GXT 256", I didn't think it was that good personally but I guess I am over critical, but I suppose for the price it does really well.
You deserve more subscribers. I like your process in all the videos I have watched
Thanks 👍😁
My wall thickness is grayed out at .8. I also found that to nearly illuminate the filament popping out of the extruder, is to keep the filament taunt. I use a Tush++ holder, and I found that putting a small piece of soft foam nudged in the middle of one of the rails, and folded to the side, then putting spool on top, is just enough friction, to not let spool spin free, but still spin when pulled. This actually stretches' the filament a bit, and when it retracts, instead of slacking down, it stays straight, due to the retract, just letting out the strech.
wall thickness it seems is changed via line width (in the quality section), that's why it's grayed out. I feel like this is a relatively new thing, I only just noticed it when you told me.
This sounds deffo something to have go. Excellent video!
The "50 minutes into a print". Light bulb!
Thank you!
Thanks for the great tips - working well so far on my Ender 3 Pro. I use SuperSlicer (a fork of PrusaSlicer, with a lot extra settings and tricks) which has it's own calibration system built-in (no plugins required) and am also using Klipper firmware, which has excellent pressure advance allowing for lower retraction settings (and possibly slightly higher speeds, but haven't tried yet).
I've heard of superslicer, it's on my list of things to play with...but it's a long list. Can't grumble, never a dull day in 3d printing!
I'm curious - how does a firmware change the pressures? I would have thought that would be entirely a slicer parameter? Not sure if klipper is on the E3V2, jyers seems to be the go to for custom firmware at the moment.
@@LostInTech3D The firmware looks ahead and adjusts extruder speed as the head slows down at corners etc to prevent build-up. Details here: github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/docs/Kinematics.md (bottom of page). I think Marlin has "Linear Advance", but it's not as sophisticated (Klipper has the advantage of doing it's kinematic processing on a Raspberry Pi).
Interesting! Bookmarked for when I get chance to check it out!
@@LostInTech3D Unfortunately linear advance in Marlin requires a different control of the steppers to that provided by the creality boards, not sure about 4.2.7 but certainly 4.2.2 boards do not support linear advance without making hardware mods to the board and adding in extra wires to the drivers.
Found that the hard way!
As far as I am aware, clipper works on all printers that will run marlin, its basically a very much simpler firmware with a greatly reduced requirement, it transfers all the kinematics and calculations to a Kipper program running on the external raspberry pi or other board so the heavy lifting is done before instructions are sent to the printer.
There are other innovations with it too, such as adding an accelerometer to the carriage and having it automatically detect and record vibrations at different print speeds and then compensate for them, think ABL but for ringing..
It also eliminates any further firmware updating, all "firmware" changes are then done on the rasberry pi through a web interface like octoprint, or in deed a plugin for octoprint, so if you add or change hardware, ABL sensors, change limits and the like all these changes is as simple as editing a file on the pi and jobe done.
One downside being that the display on the printer becomes redundant (as far as I am aware) but you can fit a display to the pi and set up a dash on that to replace it.
Its on my todo list, but not until I have 2 printers so I can keep one for printing while 'playing' with the other. There are a lot of people who claim its the next best thing to sliced bread, but time will tell if they have blunt knives to start with LOL
@@LostInTech3D
Compiling marlin from source is actually fairly easy, I created a pdf to walk through it..
That said, I did have issued with the latest release, 2.092, the headers provided were missmatched to the marlin version for some reason, and there was a few niggles and a bug for UBL which was a deal breaker for me so I just dropped back to 2.082, it compiled with no issues and has really made a big difference to the printer..
If you want to dive into compiling I would be happy to send you the pdf, you can try it out and see how easy it is to get that "Compiled correctly" message ;)
I assume, given Jyers is a fork of marlin, it will be pretty much exactly the same process for jyers though not tried it as yet
Awesome video, thank you! The plugin is totally awesome. Just what I needed to tune in my new dual gear extruder and capricorn tube. i think retraction distance killed my first TPU prints. So thank you for the ideas.
I hadn't tried TPU until I needed it for some things for my CNC. So looking on RUclips thankfully this video came up and really helped get my prints perfect. Thank you.
Ah, yes. Calibration EEVEEs. It's actually a good test print. Like seriously. Good job.
Great video, very useful! Thanks for making it :)
Thanks! :)
Just bought my first roll or Sunlu TPU and I was also under the impression that retraction is bad.. I will certainly try adding a little to see if it works for me too! Thanks for the vid!
should be fine! I used sunlu TPU for the video, it needs to be printed really slow, but I got good results...
Very well done tutorial! Thank you!
*NEED HELP: Your video was the reason I decided to give TPU a chance on my Ender 3, so thanks! I did a lot of the test prints you suggested and was able to get almost perfect results. I can print this Eevee almost perfectly, there is one problem I'm having. The chest is always messed up. nothing I try can fix it. Almost everything I print with a similar overhang as Eevee's chest has about the same messed-up results. I am using Overtures TPU, which I have been liking a lot. If anyone has a suggestion, please let me know!
make sure your overhang isn't overhanging too much, for example if you're using too large line height it can cause the next line up to be too far out compared to the last. If it's not sticking to the previous layer this can be too low a temperature, or I've even seen the cooling fan blowing the overhang off the previous layer so rotating the part can work, that's some things to try at least.
@@LostInTech3D Great, I will give those a try for sure. Thanks!! I’ll update the results
hi, thanks for this great video, it's very clear, i like how you document very accurately every step and it is very definitely helpful.
I haven't experimented much with tpu printing, but i gave a shot at a pretty elastic 90a and went for no infill, vase mode or easy prints (ender 3v2 stock hw).
i experimented with various (low percentage) infills (3d cross, cubic, gyroid, etc.) to both keep the final object very light, flexible and elastic, while having the bare minimum internal structure to help support it all. the point being having objects you can crush in your palm that will snap back to their original shape :)
Fast or repetitive retraction always ended up in pretty bad under extrusion for me - even when using settings to limit it to the minimum with sensible speed and length values - but to be fair, this under extrusion problem kinda runs deeper for me with this bowden setup so i ended up disabling retraction alltogether and increasing flow to like 120%!
I can live with the stringing, i'd rather have that than pieces that are a bit see through and that will break quicker; after all i'm trying to print objects to be played with.
PS:
thanks for that video about the new cura lightning infill, it really comes at a great time as i was facing exactly that kind of problem for a print ;p
Just to clarify, you managed to print 90 A on the E3V2? I am impressed.
Working with TPU continues to teach me new things about it, there are so many idiosyncrasies around pressure and retraction that are mind boggling. I see it as a journey that I accidentally started with this video, and it's still very early days. I hope you will check out my more recent TPU video too.
Do you mind if I ask which 90A you were using?
@@LostInTech3D yeah I did :) I used 3dfils efil tpu 90a (blue). I started with a model of a simple rocket that you can print in vase mode and experimented a bit with the settings. From memory, I think I used 220 or 230°c for the hotend, can't really remember for sure but I think I put the bed at 45°c or so. I used a low printing speed of 15 or 20 mm/s and as I said in my previous post, I disabled retraction and increased flow.
After being successful with those settings, I moved on to (slightly) more complex models and tried out different infill patterns and percentage. Too much infill and the print would loose a lot of flexibility, too little and it would be brittle. I liked the results with 7 or 8 % gyroid.
The most ambitious print i tried was a kind of spirally sphere with lots of thin 'petals' and it did print, but the result wasn't very good looking and needed quite a bit of post processing due to the stringing caused by not having retraction.
Talking about it makes me want to try some more :)
I'll check out your other videos for sure, especially the more advanced ones, already watched a few more ;)
Dude all your videos are so great! I've been watching your videos for over 2 months and I just realized I never subscribed and that's been remedied. I wish you made videos every day. You can straight have your own TV show. Thank you for all the great, informative content. One question, I just got an Ender 3 s1 pro and I'm scared to death to print TPU and PETG on the bed that comes with it the PEI coded rough surface. Any thoughts?
I tried making videos every day....haha. I do intend to increase the number, but it's a struggle because they always seem to escalate!
fantastic, thanks very much for the tips!!
Thank you thank you! very helpful tips! looking forward to see more great contents from you
Thank you! Plenty more on the way :)
You dont need cura to get good tpu results, i use prusa slicer, it takes a process to get each project to print well. My favorite TPU is ninja flex 85a and it is a different animal to print well, much softer, you have to really tweak your extruder filament gripping pressure. Larry
I started by trying to print TPU 95 with a stock Homers Tarantula Pro. I was instantly out of the game. The extruder simply slipped, without feeding the TPU. The extruder started slipping more and more, on all materials as well. Changing the extruder to a BMG Dual Drive solved the problem. I am pretty paranoid out of the gate, and it is working very well to print tires one at a time. I will use this advise to, not only tune TPU, but for all the materials I am using. I have not had good results using this plugin on CURA. But the same thing is available on the Teaching Tech Tuning website. This way the CURA slicer is out of the equation. The settings can be entered into the slicer after the testing phase is complete.
The dirty secret is that all extruders slip at least a little. Even on PLA.
You can tighten the tension on some extruders but it sometimes is worse, because this causes buckling.
I actually have a clone of the BMG extruder already, it is waiting for me to fit, test, and make a video on. My list of things to do is quite long :) Did you encounter any problems when fitting it?
Thanks I will try this tips..
Just got an Elegoo Neptune 3 to replace my aging Anet A8 so your video has proved to be handy for dialling in TPU. I just mapped the Cura settings to Simplify3D and they pretty much worked. However, I've run the calibration models to see the variation in performance, so your process is very useful. You don't have a link for the Eevee model but I guess it's the low poly one on Thingiverse. What scale are you printing it? It's doesn't look like 100% (59 mm tall). Cheers. Subbed.
After watching this, my EEVEE came out good. just one or two strings between the ears. I have an Ender 3 V2 with the Micro-Swiss Direct Drive.
How hard was the DD mod to do? If I ever have a spare ender/clone I may be tempted
@@LostInTech3D Hardest part: print the fan shroud. It would use the original on the Ender 3. The mod itself is a snap, especially since I already had their all metal hotend installed. They sell it with or without the hotend.
Excellent video, keep up the great work, subbed
Thank you! 👍
I’ve really haven’t had issues with running TPU on my Bowden set up basically I slow it way down 10-13 mmps and a retraction around 3-4 mm retraction.
I am really struggling with TPU on an Ultimaker 3 Ext. I have Cura 4.13 and can't find the Calibration Parts extension you mention in the marketplace. Subbed and liked. Looking forward to more good stuff.
The marketplace is having a bit of upheaval at the moment I think with the new release. I guess try again later.
In the meantime check the newer tpu video where I share a link to a cura profile
Great Video many thanks! one extra thing, use a Filament Dryer with TPU is good idea...
Aha, have you seen my latest TPU video? There's a filament dryer in it, but...😂👍
On a serious note, I've started and abandoned a video about filament and drying several times. The problem is, it never quite works out how I think it will. But that's a story for another video!
Hey just a heads up, you can export cura settings and make it downloadable instead of screenshotting pictures. Just go to preferences > Profiles > Click on the profile you've made and then click export on the top right. Thanks though :)
yep exactly - I need to do two things, tidy them up, then find somewhere to host things like this. I'm on it 👍
Thankyou for the video you got a new subscriber here :D
Brilliant informative video! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, lots of info. I have to ask though, why not just print calibration objects and minimize the plastic waste?
Very informative video, thanks.
I'm thinking upgrading my tired and worn Anet A8 (direct drive) to an Ender 3 V2. I print mainly quadcopter parts in TPU. Would I be better looking at a printer with direct drive or are you happy with your Ender/bowden setup? The A8 seems happy to print quite a bit faster that the 20mm/s you mention.
The print speed you can get away with seems mostly affected by the print size in my experience. I believe that this is because the long single stretches without stopping on a larger piece (eg infill) will build up more pressure before it's relieved by moving/retracting which is what causes the filament to jam in the extruder.
A DD will of course suffer the same but over a much shorter distance, I suspect DD extruders are just designed better to avoid filament escape or chewing so they can handle the higher pressure you get when you're extruding long stretches faster. That was my theory anyway. I do have a friend with two flashforge DD printers who also can't/won't print above around 20mm/s so it possibly also depends on extruder design, perhaps more than anything else.
The E3V2 is a fantastic printer but I would be very wary of advising you to get it for TPU explicitly, over a direct drive. Probably best to go for a DD - or perhaps end up going down the rabbit hole of running multiple printers! :)
Am I happy with it? Yes, but I print probably 90% PLA, I don't think I would be so happy if I printed with TPU all the time, quite probably I'd have looked into a DD upgrade for it or at least an extruder mod - both of which are possible.
Let me know how it goes if you try though!
Great video very informative! Thnx
TPU requires VERY slow speeds 10-30 mm/s. It's just too flexible to go through the extrusion gears adequately enough. 190 - 198 degrees celsius gives better results than a temperature over 205. TPU has a boiling point, and over 200c guarantees that it will boil inside the hot end, causing it to exploded out of the nozzle, instead of extruding reliably.
220 is way too high for TPU, it will boil out of the nozzle.
Great guide. I’m just about to try TPU on my Ender 3 Pro. At the end of each calibration, do you select and set the best result in the profile before moving to the next calibration? Or do you do them all with the one profile and then change the profile at the end of the calibration sequence (temp, retraction and speed settings)? I believe the guide is the later? Thanks
It's up to you but I'd apply the settings of a test before moving to the next, it's likely they will interact slightly
im trying to print the ultimaker TPU 95A using an ultimaker 2 extended+ however i am finding it incredibly difficult. overhangs seem to be impossible as the material literally just flops down as its not able to print on top of any previous layers. Ive just printed the retraction tower (i previously had retraction disabled entirely as the filament would not extrude at all) however layers one and two seem the same level of rubbish with two simply having less of a bridge part, then layer three just looks slightly worse than two, four is barely there and five just didnt print at all! So i have now set retraction distance to 1mm from previously disabled. Also i must say that the bridge parts are not even separate, at the back there is a thin wall joining them all together! ... yeah im new to 3D printing and im in a strange situation with an older printer. Sorry if this message is very overcomplicated or makes no sense but maybe you can help or give a few pointers? maybe someone else in the comments would be happy to do the same. Any info is appreciated... as much as this is difficult... im enjoying 3D printing very much! p.s. the gcode flavour im using is "Marlin". this is because the default gcode flavour for the ultimaker 2 extended+ is "ultimaker 2" which doesnt have all the settings used in this video available to edit in cura.
It's always hard to diagnose things like this, but I have had that same problem where overhangs on TPU just fall off and it did take a long time to work out why.
It was actually a red herring, the real issue was the nozzle was becoming partially blocked, and one sign of a partially blocked nozzle is the filament comes out thin and at an angle.
With TPU it's almost always the same answer. Slow down, then slow down more. Try the print at around 5mm/s. It sounds really slow but that's what you need sometimes. If it works, go from there.
If not, well... hopefully it will 👍
@@LostInTech3D i have observed exactly that happening sometimes, the filament comes out well for a bit, then it gets really thin, like a hair almost and comes out at a bit of an angle. Thanks for the advice, I'm getting an ultra slow retract tower printed right now
@@maxrackstraw yeah exactly that! It's not a permanent blockage, it will resolve itself after a retraction, which I think is what is confusing. It's actually a pressure issue - which is what I want to talk about, extensively, in my next TPU video.
@@LostInTech3D looking forward to that video, i predict that it will be incredibly helpful, thanks!
Thank you so much!
Great video! Quick question (apologies if it's an obvious one): for each calibration tower that you print, are you basing each print on the same base print settings (i.e the only varibale that's changing in the g-code is the retraction distance, temperature or retraction speed, depending on which tower you're printing), or does the next tower have the adjusted settings from the previous tower (i.e. does your temperature tower use the ideal retraction distance settings, and the speed retraction settings use the ideal distance retraction and ideal temperature settings)? Thanks!
That is actually a really good question.
It kinda leads down a bit of a rabbit hole as I think you're implying, as the variables are probably not entirely independent! So, tuning one may alter the ideal setting of a previously tuned variable. So it becomes a bit of an iterative (tedious) process, essentially solving an equation with three non independent variables.
Luckily, I don't think it matters that much in reality, certainly for my tests I managed to hone the results starting with just any base profile that worked well enough to complete each tower.
As to whether you feed the best value of test one into test 2 etc...I think it's a good idea to do that. But I can also see arguments for only changing one variable at a time. Personally I would feed in the best value to the next tower though, just for expedience, and to avoid any surprises on combining the results at the end.
Sorry...that answer got a bit complicated :)
@@LostInTech3D Thanks for the reply! I'm fairly new to 3D printing, so I wasn't sure how much interplay there would be between the variables. I mean, I can see how retraction distance and speed could affect one another, but I wasn't sure how temperature would be influenced by those (or would influence either of those other 2 variables). I'll give it a go! My retraction distance tower failed half way through the 9mm section, so I think I have some bed adhesion issues to resolve as well!
I think it's likely that temperature might affect the ideal retraction settings (hotter is less viscous), but not the other way round. Of course this is speculation unless I revisit the topic in future! :)
Good luck with the bed
@@LostInTech3D Thanks. Have cleaned the bed and am now printing the temperature tower with the 9mm retraction settings (came out best as it did with your set up). I'm using Sunlu TPU
Amazing, thanks much 👏
👍
Has anyone made a piece for the bowden steup which sits just behind the nozzle and it pinches the filament during travel. I imagine this would prevent stringing because when a travel begins, the extruder should stop, but since the filament is flexible, it has pressure built up in it, like a compressed sping, and this internal pressure causes filament to come out of the nozzle even though the extruder is off. If the filament were to be pinched just before the nozzle when a travel begins and the extruder stops, then this will keep the internal pressure in the bowden tube while the travel is happening. The pressure between the pinch and the nozzle tip should equalize quickly with minimal stringing. And then when the travel ends, the pinch is released, and the extruder starts pushing again, so the internal pressure in the filament is kept relatively constant, and the flow rate out of the nozzle is well controlled.
Do you know if anyone has done this and shared their results?
Nice video..going to try set this out. One quick question, infill density leave it to 40% as in your setting?
Infill density is not important, set it to whatever works for your design needs - however, see my latest vid on tpu where I suggest avoiding the pressure increase that comes with long extrude lengths, some infill densities and patterns will cause this, or to put it another way, when printing large items, it often fails on the infill!
I find gyroid works well. Hope that helps.
Hi~ I wanted to paste your setting but found a question.
Why you're using 0.4mm nozzle but line width sets 0.3mm? Thank you.
You should get better quality from a 0.3 line width, there is a calculation on how much material to place down based on line height, and line width. I can make a video about this, it will help explain. I will add it to my list of videos to make :)
You *can* do 0.4 width, see if it works. It probably will be ok, but it would increase pressure so more chance of jam.
@@LostInTech3D Wow, I didn't know that.
The width I'm using is 0.4mm, and print a width test cube then measure the real width. Finally, I calculate the compensation between setting and real width to decrease my flow rate setting.
Can't wait to see your new video!
can not find the copy scrps part at 5:09 if you have modded cura that dos not help
I’m new to 3d printing but I’ve had no issues with printing tpu on ender 3 from the start, it’s all I print..
Captions are hilarious, glad I them accidently switched on. 🤣
i cant change the wall thickness. Pressing the Fx button does not work. What is the problem?
I found the KEY is using a 0.5 nozzle and print 0.45 linewidth ....
let me know if you try this. it works wounders
Nice tutorial! Thank you! Question - do I need to apply best settings before each step? For example 9mm retraction distance from step1 should be applied before slicing step2 tower or not?
I would do it this way personally yes.
3 printers and I cannot get TPU to feed to the hot end, it simply kinks in the extruder. I did get some results by putting a weaker spring in the ender 3
There's a technique actually! I did a vid about it. If it's super flexible TPU I use the feed function "load filament" which I dont think is on the original ender 3, so you would have to use octoprint for it, or use the "move" menu.
my ender v2 it's upgraded (aand boguht) only to use it with tpu. I put on the swiss direct extruder....ok, the filament goes right, not clogs or anything...but it wan't extrude...other filament yes, tpu ...no
Great video, you rock!
Thanks! 👍
Soooo I can't find the Calibration Shapes Plugin in Cura 5.1.0
ty im gona try it
Good luck 👍
I have a problem but with tpe in half print the extruder start clicking and can't push the tpe filament. Can someone help pleaseee
(Cr10s pro V2)
One suggestion is if your showing cura the black screen makes if very different to see wheat your doing. Also on the temp tower are you useing the pla temp tower at the temps listed? I'm wondering if 180c is going to stop my extruder.
I did the retraction tower at 128c wich looks like the temps probably to high im doing the temp tower but fear to low a temps goingnto go bad.
I have an ender 3v2 with a bondtech lgx extruder I just installed in bowden version
Im on cura 4.12 now and i dont seem to have the copy scripts option anyone know if its automatic now or what
You are correct, it is automatic. On new versions you don't need to do that step.
I'm going to pin this to the top if you don't mind?
Trying some NINJAFLEX 85A for the first time on a Neptune 4 pro, ran a temp tower and retraction distance tower and they all came out ugly as sin, basically got decent unattractive bonding between layers at 250 degrees but it looks most attractive at 230 degrees but will bond vertically but not horizontally with adjacent layers. Retraction was pretty ugly at every number it was pretty indistinguishable so I just went with low retraction value of 1. So what I ended up with was an initial layer at 250 for good bed adhesion, then dial it down to 230 for an attractive print but suffers bad horizontal layer adhesion. I think I’m going to have to print at 250 for functional parts and just deal with an ugly looking finish. Shame I can’t seem to find a perfect balance with this brand new printer. Did I mention I had to print at 10-15mm/sec, aka grandma driving speed. Any tips would be appreciated.
250 is too high, 230 is more reasonable, I've not used ninjaflex but I am printing tpu on the neptune 4 for next vid, and it absolutely is capable of this. Crank up flow rate, you might need to go beyond 110%, to get those gaps filled. This is expected for tpu, I usually run 70A at about 120%. I'd also recommend 2mm as a minimum for retraction.