3D Printing In TPU - Tips and Tricks
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2018
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A good way to remove TPU parts from PEI bed is to drop Isopropyl alcohol at the base of the print before trying to remove it. Make sure the base of the print is surrounded by a pool of alcohol. Once you start to pry it off the bed, the alcohol gets between the print and the bed and it's much easier to remove. I never damaged a PEI sheet since I use this method.
Helpful tip: "Avoid crossing outline for travel movements" is also known as "combing" on other slicer software.
Probably the most important video for 3d printing with TPU filaments to watch. Thanks Joe for sharing this, I have learned a lot from this video and plan to test out these methods on some TPU prints ASAP. Awesome stuff.
Just getting into tpu, I've been messing around with it this whole weekend with no luck. After watching your video it makes so much sense. I will try to dry it in the oven and look into all the settings. Prints have been taking forever but I rather have pristine quality. Many many thanks for this.
Great tips. It was very eye-opening just how much "soggy" filament effects the print. On a side note, when printing in TPU, I go old school and use blue painter's tape. It works perfectly.
Your tutorial about TPU is just perfect, thanks so much Joe !!
One of the most helpful explanation on RUclips within the 3D Printer area, really appreciate your knowledge sharing Joe.
Excellent and transparent video. You're honesty about sponsors is very refreshing. The information in your video was exactly what I was looking for as I have just ordered my first roll of TPU filament. Thanks again
Thanks Joe! I just used Amazon Basics Red TPU for the first time and had the filament pop out of the extruder on the MK3. SO I took your advice, and lower ALL my speeds to identical values of 20mm and have had fabulous results.
You literally saved me! The noise you recorded... now I understand why all my TPU prints sucks :D
Thanks, good video as always! Helped me dial in my TPU settings quickly.
Great info, the tip to set all the printing speeds to the same number made a huge difference for me. I'm printing on a JG Aurora A5 and was about to give up printing with NinjaFlex, but after checking all my speed settings and seeing the ups and downs in the speeds I set everything the same and can now print very detailed pieces as fast as 20 mm/s. THANKS !!!
Loving the 4k :) Really shows off the differences in those prints so well! Great little "gadget" idea for your door too :)
Seriously helpful, thanks. Great work as usual.
You were spot on when you said I would be getting my printer soon! Heard from Prusa today that it shipped! Can’t wait! Nice swag by the way, and great info in this video!
This is magic. I've been having these holes in my print and 10 mins in the oven did the trick! Thank you so much!!
Yes it’s sound like bubble inside the nozzle, thanks man I’m learn something now! ✌🏻
Thanks for the tips! I use a very light coating of parting dust for metal casting on my PEI sheet and it works great for removing the print. (basically talc powder with out any additives)
Thanks a lot :) noone else had mentioned the constantess. I love your channel!
Gonna have to give it a try thanks Jo
Followed your advice , THANK YOU, first time out printing with TPU and im getting wonderful results, with a Anet 8. Thanks again for your videos. I Hit the Like button of course.
This was amazingly informative, thank you. I would have never thought about baking my filament before printing. I leaveit in the bag with desiccants, but now I think I will try baking.
Worries me about melting it in the oven, though. I'll have to be really careful and see where I can bake it safely.
Thank you for the tips. I start to love TPU even when it is more difficult to print, but this stuff is super tough and durable.
Excellent comparisons - as usual Joe. Thanks!
Thank you :)
Great tips, thanks for sharing! You should print a door stopper that is on the floor as there are chances that the ring you made may turn and not be able to bounce back.
Jost watched this video. Wow 2 years ago. I am just new at 3d printing and am hooked. It's great especially in this boring time if covid lol. So the other day I received my 1st tpu filament and tried it out on my ender 3 pro. Didn't work out too well, it kept on jamming up between the feeder gear and the tube. This video was awesome it answered my questions now to try out the lower speed settings. Thank you so much
A great help. Awesome video. Thanks so much.
my first TPU spools just arrived and now it all makes sense why it came with a large minigrip bag, definitely going to make sure it doesn't get too wet particularly because my printer is near my kitchen. Should've maybe researched a bit in advance but hopefully I can make some cool stuff with TPU, there's been many flexible prints I've wanted to make
I found that faster print setting reduces the sizzling on my Delta Kossel Mini. Because entrapped water doesn't have enough time to burst into the vapor bubbles. My prints at 30mm/s come out exacly like like these bad print examples in the video, but with 50mm/s - the results are perfect. Used fillament is a Hatchbox TPU at 210 deg. Standing open on my desk near the printer for a months already. Also a trick with reducing temperature to 205 deg also does the job instead of icreased speed. So it's all about to find the perfect ballance between the feedrate and nozzle temperature to do it fast enough not let water burst into vapor bubles. Meaning - to give just enough energy to melt a fillament and have bonded layers in the print, but not enough to let the water in the fillament accoumulate so much heat that it bubles it. Some say that this is crazy, because water starts boiling at 100C and nozzle is over 200C. But the physics says that the water boiling temperature actually depends on pressure inside the container in which it entrapped - here we have the pressure of sorrounding TPU material that your extruder motor creates sqeezing it into the nozzle. I have my slicer extrusion rate set at 110..120%, meaning it tries to squeeze more TPU than it actually requires. So I assume that is what creatses this excess pressure on entrapped water and at the right speed and temp it doesn't sizzle. I also have cooling fans spinning at full speed.
Alex - After one year posting what have you learned to get even better results? Temp's both nozzle and bed? FeedRate and flowRate? Do you bake your TPU as a whole or just a given length?
Your channel is awesome, came across it on a forum linking this video.
I have been struggling trying to print TPU, watched this, baked my roll, printed a phone case first try out of the oven with 0 issues.
Thanks for the video. On to your dehydrator video now as I have 2 that have been gifted to me years ago, now they will have a purpose!
Thank you, glad I could be of help :)
you nailed it! awesome. Thank you!
Bookmark worthy, indeed! TY!
Nice info. Thanks for sharing with us. Exactly what I need now. Subbed!
Great work. Just started using TPU. This is very helpful.
You got yourself a subscriber sir. Been looking for a simple "how-to" video on settings (starts at 08:40 in video) and basic information on TPU since I'm printing TPU for the first time. This is the simplest, straight forward video I've come across. Thank you.
Thank you :)
Exactly the video I was looking for thanks.
Great advice on using the oven. Thank you kind sir
Awesome tutorial! Great explanations!
very useful info, thanks loads!
Concise and informative! Thank you
I really liked this video, thanks for the very useful information.
Good quality info ! thanks man
Amazing video! The best tips for TPU I've found. Thank you so much!!
Great Video ! Dried my Filament as you said (30 min at 70°C) in my oven and it worked ! I was a bit nervous in the first 15 min but I never had such a good quality ! THANKS !
Trashkid87 hey so you’re cooking your final print or the actual filament spool? Sorry might be a dumb question
@@MrAndersonMusic056 the spool before printing
Some good tips there! The comparisons of dry/wet filament prints were great. Low(ish) speed (40-50mm/sec for me on a direct drive) and dry filament is the way for sure. Retraction is the other thing that seems to kill the strings. On my Sovol SV01 (direct drive) I'm using 4mm retraction at 30mm/sec and I'm surprised if I see more than one or two strings in a print if the filament is dry, which it always is now that I'm using a dry box.
Thanks for sharing!
I love these practical hints and tips videos that get straight to the point, thank you. Interesting that 30 minutes was sufficient to dry the filament. It raises the possibility of using a device that actively dries the filament between the spool and extruder - a conduit with a heater and a fan, a second fan for a period of cooling, then enters the extruder. The moisture only has to travel 0.875mm. How long would the device need to be to give 5-10 minutes of drying time?
Very informative useful video! THX!
Wow you nailed it bud... Thanks so much! That sizzle!
Haven't printed with flexibels a lot, (only had a few samples) but seeing this video now explains a lot of the problems i was having back then with the samples. They were not properly sealed and thus would have taken in moisture for sure. So thanks for the helpful info Joe. Also can't wait for the Mural mail video tomorrow :)
This video really helped. I feel like no one really covers tpu in printer reviews or anything.
Finally the TPU answers I've been looking for. I've been experimenting with it for printing the casing for my dog collar light and even though I was getting decent results the perimeter crossing was leaving nasty strings in the middle of the print. Didn't realize there was a setting for that :D
Thank you so much for this valuable tip!!
Finally some great advice
Ahhh.... I hear it too. Thank you for explaining in absolute detail. I'm half way through a print, but will cook after..
Great info. Thanks.
Good tips, gonna put em to use right about now.. I wasn't doing too bad either, kinda on the right track, but I hadnt slowed it down quite enough, and the z hops, since you mentioned it I kinda realized it makes sense with such a stringy stretchy material why it would be problematic. Great vid.
Very well done. Thanks.
Great idea!!
Thank you good review I'm about to start using TPU on Flash Forge Finder
wow, this is a very VERY good video! thanks for the tips!
I love that magigoo adhesive, especially the mater soluble feature. I've had some big TPU prints that refused to separate from the plate, and with a little water and capillary action it lifted right off.
I like the descriptions you give and the tips about oven heating to dry out. That's what we do in the industry I work in for a ton of materials. I did laugh though when you describe what the part is for. I used to install a ton of doors and door stops.
Thank you sir, you answered my question on your first tip.
this is going to change thanksgiving forever!!!
great info. thanks
My prints are looking terrible on my ender 3, direct drive. They used to look great when i was using bowden. As soon as you mentioned the moisture issue it all made sense, my packs have all been open in my celler for about a month! got one in the oven now, im sure it will fix the issue, thanks so much! Subbed
The absolute best way to stop tpu sticking to the pei sheet is to put a tiny bit of talcum powder on the sheet. It will then stick fine when printing and will be easily removed afterwards.
thanks lot for this video I learnt a lot!
Nice Tips, thanks!
Thanks for sharing ✨👍🏻
WOW! Very nice video. I'm just starting at 3D printing, Actualy I don't even have my printer yet. It's the first video a see from you, the voice is not anoying, your ideas are clear, your not doing heuuuuuu! or "you know you know" all the time. Even with a 15 min video I don't want to change because you sound good and the explanation is good and clear. I subcribed right away.
Hope all the next video I see from you will ba as good. :-)
Thanks for the great tips by changing the speeds on all the settings cut my print time from 3+ hours to 2 hours with a lot better looking print
I have just started printing flexibles, so this video comes handy.
i didnt know this is possible, thanks for the vids !
Thank you so much.. this video helped a lot!
Thx for these tips and tricks....
Great video, Joe. Someone has promoted the Capricorn Bowden tubing as especially good for TPU because of its tight ID tolerances that guide the filament more accurately. Have you heard of this?
Thanks!
great video! I print NinjaFlex and other Flexibles on my Mk3. if its coming out its because its going too fast. I print 10-15mm/s
Man, thank you so much! I had never tried drying it in the oven - I'll give it a shot :D
did this work for you? i get rought prints theres some seperations and i hear water getting burnt
@@angelfpv4825 IT works. I am using 60-80°C and print direktly afterwards. Better than before for sure :)
Very good video
This video is very informative and makes total sense I was wondering where these air bubbles in my filament was coming from I even cut up a section into little pieces thinking air bubbles were in it. But it was moisture steaming out I live in Hawaii so printing TPU is very difficult
Because of the Z-hop enabled I have clogged twice my extruder. Thank you very much. Great video.
Thank you.
Hairspray works nicely on TPI for TPU. It is easy to get an even coating, and it also works for PLA, plus cleaning with IPA is no longer needed so you can use your alcohol for other purposes. Make sure you have a good coat for TPU, for PLA it doesn't need to be refreshed very often, I've printed many, many prints on a aquanet coated PEI sheet with no cleaning between prints. I think this works for PETG as well but haven't done much testing with that yet.
Thanks. Just dried some TPU. Printing right now. Already looks a bunch better.
To remove prints that stick too well to the PEI I put some isopropyl alcohol around the edges of the print where it touches the bed and apply some upward force on the part. With a little patience the isopropyl alcohol starts to „wander“ under the part and after a while it can be removed quite easily. The edge of the part needs to be wet with isopropyl alcohol at all times.
Michael S Usually right after the print finishes and the bed‘s still warm, if I catch the moment 😉, bit this method also works on a cold bed.
Thanks for this informative video. thanks Again
Welcome :)
I have a spring steel pei sheet, on one side it is smooth and the other has a rough texture. The rough texture sticks well for the print and comes off without hurting it.
Nice video, I keep my filaments in dry boxes, but never knew TPU was so suspect to humidity.
I've just been using pva gluestick on smooth glass. Working well for me so far.
I'll stay tuned bro sick channel
thank you :)
Great tips! Personally I found TPU easier to print than ABS or even PETG. Most important setting was to reduce the retraction distance to about 1mm, and I use a lighter spring on the extruder to reduce the pressure exerted on the filament (avoids the filament twisting and coming out between the gear and the hotend
So when you say lighter spring, do you mean the spring that clamps together the gears that push the TPU into the PTFE tubing?
Good tips
13:05 from my experience u dont need gluestick when u are already using the textured one
the textured one isnt that sticky by design the smooth one is where u gotta be careful ( in my experience )
Thanks for the video, trying out tpu today for the first time with an AnyCubic Vyper, gonna try with the other printers later on. However i realised that the settings are important as u said. The first for me was that i had to calibrate the tension of the filament feeder, i had to soften it, otherwise the filament bent inside the extruder, so if anyone have problems with filament not coming out of the nozzle, try this. On the box it says about 220-240, for this filament i bought on amazon, 250 showed to be the perfect for this print and combined with the other settings. This filament isnt like PLA or other harder plastic filament at all, its more more struggle to get it right. I always tell ppl who starts with 3d printing; "if you get the print come out good, always try to make it even better, otherwise you wont go forward. Change the temp, try faster, try slower, open up some new option in cura and try them out, always try to learn more!
Very good info. You should try making a desiccant box with a slit (like a grommet) to store AND print. That way your filament is ALWAYS in a dry environment. Might save you from having to bake your TPU.
Can you make a video on the best method to keep your filament dry? Like what do you use and what you found didn't really work
Great video. A lot of work to print a door stop though...