Things you should know about PLA
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Everyone can print PLA, it's super easy, right? Well, only because everyone else is printing it, too! PLA comes with its own set of pitfalls, but it can be incredibly rewarding to get it right.
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"let your tool cool off between holes" - didn't expect to get the best advice I've ever heard from a european man in a flower shirt.
"it is absolutely no shame dropping to 40mm/s"
me, at 30mm/s: why you bully me?
me, printing my outer walls at 15-20mm/s: idk what are you talking about
I think its really rough on your machine to run it super fast anyways!
Lol, I built a printer with threaded rods on all axes. I had to print at 5mm/s
I absolutely LOVE that you said, "Some people have only printed in PLA, and that's okay."
Hey, I'm all for pushing your comfort zone, but for many users there's absolutely no reason to go through the potential hassle of tuning in a new filament!
I've started with ABS exclusively then slowly hate it more and more until the point I almost print PLA exclusively unless I want some special mechanical properties of other plastics..
I have some one or two month old rolls of flexible and ABS that i have trouble using on my AnyCubic, any suggestions?
a Velleman K8200 for example is made just for PLA (bed tem can't go much over 60°C) I made many many custom things to make it more ABS friendly (24V supply for bed...) Now I have Ramps 1.4 MK3 bed and pretty much now it is just a K8200 frame and steppers :D about a week ago I bought few rolls of ASA and I LOVE IT!!!
Adventures in 3d Printing i printed abs with anycubic and it cut my belt when i left it overnight with a huge filament mess. I have succeded with small prints using ctc prusa and my first conclusion to print in ABS is to do working enclosure with high environment temp.
5:08 "simply let your tool cool off between holes"
@MichaelKingsfordGray grow up. Then stop gettingnhurt over internet jokes, if your psych nurse will allow it.
Michael Dinwiddie lol
@MichaelKingsfordGray Did I trigger you?
2:23 "Printing temerature" Must be a quality product
"You can never go wrong with a screaming pink, right?" 😂
Vivid neon yellow green ^^
🔥💛 yes!
you can if you want a black part out of it lol
I had pink guy in my mind lol
Tom, I can't help noticing all the filament you have exposed and sitting/hanging around in your workshop. Is there any value in keeping PLA in a dry-box between print jobs? Are there other filament types that can sit out until their next use with no degradation?
As a purely practical issue, *I recommend marking ever PLA filament spool with the temperature that you have find most suits it,* so that your slicer profile can be matched to the roll you select to print with.
Most people will end up with many partial spools of PLA, and it gets hard to remember the temperature that suits each spool.
I have a black spool that prints best at 190, a white spool that prints best at 235, a pink spool at 220, blue at 205, etc, etc, all marked on the spool itself so that a I don't have to remember anything other than to slice at a temperature that matches that spool.
This man casually savages his prints.
Respect
I’d like to know other experience with PLA+ (I’ve really only tried eSun) but it seems to print easier and stronger than PLA, basically the opposite of what Tom said.
same here, pla+ is more forgiven and, it cost the same I use ELUTENG
You are right PLA+ is a co-polymer and depending on the added polymer it can be tougher and (sightly) softer (this is mostly the characteristic that is wanted / intended) or more brittle and harder... (Tom's version ?)
I've started buying eSun PLA+, and agree it seems to be much better than regular PLA. I was actually reading the comments to see if other disagreed with that statement.
It's the only filament I buy anymore, it's so, so good
I agree.
Hi Thomas. It would be awesome if you can make a video about additives. The things other than pigment that manufactureres really doesnt mention on labels. Maybe you could reach to Proto Pasta or somebody and exactly what grade and type of base resin they use for they PLA filaments. Things that change mechanical properties, resistatnce to UV, to water, stabilizers, prevent too early biodegradation, chain extenders, viscosity modifiers, coelastomers, changing coeeficient of friction, or molecular weight of polymer, crosslinking, antistatic additives, fire retardants, stuff to make it more suitable for food, or molding and postprocessing, etc. It is very complex topic and almost never thing labeled PLA or ABS is pure stuff. But I hate not knowing what is in my filament.
Oh Tom, that shirt, and a roll of screaming pink, a match made in heaven :D
yea i love the People's Liberation Army too
I only disagree with the part about PLA+ (PLA Pro). I tested it many times (eSun brand), and I think it is nearly 50% stronger and has better layer adhesion. It is slightly more heat resistant due to a higher melting point. Lastly it is less ridged, which makes it more shatter resistant.
Haha geiles shirt thomas! Danke für das Video. Gerade meinen mk3 gebaut und da ist das doch ganz nett während der rumkalibriert!
I've been using Esun PLA Plus and it is much stronger and less brittle than standard PLA. The layer adhesion is also incredibly good.
Yeah that's what I've heard pretty much everywhere. Seems like the best printing material as of now, excluding high temperature applications where you gotta use ABS.
Same here, I wish Tom and CNC kitchen would review the performance compared to standard pla or other modified pla brands. I know CNC reviewed polymaker pla+, but I feel esun is superior compared to his results.
A video like this, but on PETG, would be nice.
PETG is tricky and I've never had good layer adhesion. Probably necessary to use a heated bed.
@@ConsultingjoeOnline I've been printing PETG for a year now without heated bed, just on painters tape. On prints with a large bottom surface I get some curling problems but mostly it prints beautifully. I tried PETG from Devil Design and Real Filament, both are great.
Request granted
@@ConsultingjoeOnline What kind of surface do you print on? I get a perfect first layer every time with my Prusa, and the secret is simple. Wipe the bed with isopropyl alcohol before printing.
@@real_armadillo thanks
I use glass and glue sticks. But when I use alcohol and wipe it I do get the best 1st layer.
Need to start sharing a link for your shirts
Well, here it is! geni.us/9prKNo
(not an affiliate link, I just want to know how many people actually click it :-)
The link is broken now :/
Thanks for the valuable hints on printing and finishing PLA. As for the drilling, I use "friction drilling" with PLA very often. Just run the drill in the opposite direction, ccw. The tip of the drill bit will heat up the contact area in front and melt a hole through the material. With the right speed and pressure the drilled hole will have solid sides and be much more stable than when drilled normally.
i honestly saw that drillbit drilling through your finger :D
When I got my printer like three years ago, I started out using mostly ABS... And while I really loved that stuff, I eventually turned to PLA for the ease of use. Though there was a while where I printed everything I could in PETG...which I still do whenever I need something with suitable mechanical properties. PETG is a great compromise between good finish, outstanding mechanical properties, and ease of printing. :D
Slow down to 40mm/sec? ...when I build robot parts and I want good precision and surface finish I print at 24mm/sec. When my projects take weeks or months from start to finish a few extra hours print time is irrelevant whereas dimensional accuracy and surface finish is not.
I also Go down that low i work an a Mill so i cant stand bad finishes😂
I actually love PLA+ for it’s matte finish. I can’t print any PLA with matte finish at all. PHA/PLA prints very nicely with matte finish.
now if only they made a pla recycling machine where you melt down your botched projects and have a filament extruder rolling it onto a spool on the other side ........
Look up Filastruder, does basically that!
now if we can get a creality or similar vendor to start making them so we can get a filastruder and winder for less than the price of two of the less expensive machines, thats where we need to be!
I've always thought that PLA was made from corn/soy or other organic materials that prevent proper recycling. That's why legos don't get recycled.
You hurt Froggy!!
NICE! I would have liked to have seen a blurb on friction welding, since that works pretty well for PLA's low melting temp. I have been using that qiote a bit lately. Glad you mentioned acetone bonding but left out the more toxic solvent bonding agents.
In China people call it People's Liberation Army😁
🤣
Make a video about annealing/ coating pla prints with resin to strengthen them and make them heat resistant
I have a question: Is 3d printing going to get stuck in a dead end as a niche industry, same as happened with the VR? (I am not trolling)
Does PLA really react with Acetone though? I have constantly heard that it doesn't react at all to acetone, only ABS does. I print little platforms out of PLA on which to vapor-smooth ABS prints, and the platforms don't melt at all.
I've welded many PLA parts with Acetone. I use a brush and apply a light amount to each part, then hold them together for 5 to 10 seconds. May not even take that log, but they bond within seconds
Rub acetone onto a shiny surface of a PLA print and you'll see it's no longer shiny. So yes, it does react with acetone.
PLA doesn't react the same way to acetone as it does with abs. It doesn't dissolve it. However, it may temporarily weaken it enough to mash 2 parts together to make it bond. That's something that probably doesn't work all that well with anything but flat well fitting surfaces though and your success will vary.
I used to print mechanical parts with ABS, then I realized ABS might not be the best choice even it resists breaking a lot better. PLA tends to be very stiff, which is really good for parts that you want to minimize the flex. ABS/PETG tends to have a lot of flex. However, by printing with PLA you have to design your parts really well to reduce the stress on the weaker spots of your prints. For me, the only down side is the super low softening temperature...
Try the Polymax PLA. I've found it prints nicely, is less flexible than ABS but at least as impact resistant. Not sure about temp resistance though.
I wish PDLA (HT-PLA) got more popular and cheaper, that would be so awesome!
Pla is easy to broke , petg is very strong cause is more flexible
@@stephenhobson8456 pla start deformation about 60 celcius , petg about 80 celcius, abs about 100 c
Damn that 4K 60fps is getting my i5+GTX1060 on its knees lol.
But very informative video, thanks.
For me eSun PLA+ seems to be great. It can be trimmed easier with a razor knife, and it has a slight bit of flex like PETG, or ABS, and prints extremely well. It seems if anything tougher, and less brittle than standard PLA, and I've switched to using it almost exclusively.
I've had the same experience w/ esun pla+. I think tom is generalizing the term "PLA+" even though it means different things for different manufacturers.
I'm glad to read this - eSun PLA+ is the only filament I've used, so I can't compare it to anything.
Good vid my man! I so far have only used pla and pla +. Currently have rolls of pla+ from e sun as I fell in love with how that stuff works and havent broken any parts yet. But I do need a better cooling fan duct for my mk2s, for the 360 cooling effect.
You should, if you haven't try e sun pla+ and see what it can handle, many many happy campers out there
It's all about painters tape and a cold bed amirite?
(no really, am I? I have no idea what I'm doing it just seems to work)
PLA will happily print almost anywhere. I personally like a warm build-tak surface cleaned with Windex for my PLA prints, but it's personal preference really.
Graet info. Thanks! As a soon to be printing designer (waiting for delivery!) this is very helpful.
Hi Tom, I don't understand why manufacturers wrote some mechanical properties on the data sheet of PLA (or any other filament) such as: tensile strenght, modulus, etc... if those are considering the filament itself, the material, an injection molded sample or a 3D printed sample that was tested as they said with standard ISO... I simply don't get it, you have any idea?
I love being taught 3D printing by Peter Parker!
I've ordered my first few parts online and I'm just blown away by how good and resilient PLA is.
I thought it would be flimsy plastic like the PE on milk jar caps. Nothing further from the truth, this thing approaches Nylon in toughness! I just can't break the small parts with my hands, definitely functional for many applications.
The low price of the parts also blew me away!!
Right?! I just got an XMax printer and thought I would easily be able to destroy the test part - a hollow lidless cube with a hollow cylinder on top - and I can't crush it! I'm very impressed
Ich wusste garnicht dass du deutscher bist bis ich den Lack gesehen habe😂
Er ist doch gar nicht deutscher, wenn man den Namen und das Erscheinungsbild beurteilt. Ich würde eher auf Schwedische Wurzeln tippen
@@MrSanczess Er kann aber flüssig Deutsch, einfach Mal den Namen + Deutsch eingeben ;)
And here i am printing 30 mm per second
i print slower then that, i have bed adhesion problems, i should get a different bed hopefully
That shirt is awesome. No joke.
In the future, more pros and cons vs other filaments. Thank you.
In my experience ESUN PLA+ Black And White is much more forgiving than regular PLA.
Would like to see a pla and pla+ comparison. Used to make my parts in esun pla. Changed it to pla+ at one point and never looked back. I can throw my hat at the slicer for temps and it will still give excellent part. It handles better in some mechanical aspect like rough sanding measurements accuracy.
I too am a big fan of eSun PLA+. I has worked so much better for me than plain PLA. I only use eSun PLA+ (for PLA type jobs). As simple to print with as PLA but allows some flexing, but not to the level of PETG.
Yeah, their PLA+ is waaaaay stronger than any other filament I’ve used.
Maybe you eSun fans can tell me why HobbyKing Sydney.....does not even mention PLA+. ....and is always out of stock on PLA within a week of “restocking”. I tried tried PLA+ from 3DFillies in Melbourne .....my comments would match yours .....if you are in Aussie.....check them out.
QuadCopter 102 You will have to take that up with Hobby King. We have no way of knowing. You might want to check eSun's website for distributors in your area.
If you are an Aussie check out www.kingdom3d.com.au for esun PLA+. Good prices, lots of stock - my go to supplier now
6:43 wait wat?!
Please tell me how
grab a flamethrower and determination
@@ramenchickenflavor2634 I feel like that solves a lot of problems 😂
Acetone does not work with PLA unless it has been modified by the manufacturer.
The only plastic that work whith acetone is Abs and thats the reason that people still use abs
This blonde guy is amazing! It's impossible to not love him :-)
glossy or matte finish just by changing the temp. and speed? could someone please elaborate on this?
The series of filaments is great, but what I always miss some video for all of us is that we don't have any knowledge about printing in 3d and we see some flaws in our prints but we don't know what happens.
We only see that it does not stick in the bed, that it comes out like waves in the first layers, we also don't know why layers are skipped, etc.
Can you make a video or a series with the typical things that happen and you know why it is so that we noobs know what is happening? It would be very helpful.
@4:17 add: And sometimes your 3d printer decides that just because it printed one part of your project perfectly, that doesn't mean it has to print the other part the exact same. Noooo, why would you expect that?!? Because nothing had changed? Too bad! Same PLA filament, same temps, same setup, same everything! Yep. Sometimes using PLA, consistency is not. grrr!!
Except for this one missing part--great vid. Thanks!
Yuo are mising somthing , ambient humidity is allways changing , or its a matters of time that yuor filament get humidity and get ruined
On the subject of glues: Do not use two component epoxy glues (like Araldite). For normal applications its just fine, but if you stress your glued parts with high loads or strokes, its likely to fail. Cyanoacrylate based glues (like superglue) will perform much better - altough they dry out within seconds.
I ve never tried it out, but usually, PLA does not dissolve in Acetone. The only glueing effect you will get is due to other plastics mixed into the filament. Thus you cant really rely on it, for it differs depending on the brand of filament - but correct me on this one if I m wrong.
I consistently find that black PLA needs to print at a lower temperatures than lighter coloured PLA on my machine (by around 7-12 degrees C). I have tried with different brands and with in the same brands.
Also if you are using a larger drill bit on a thinner wall the horizontal layers can split apart
Who are the 3 a 4 big manufacturers and to what smaller brands do they supply? I'm curious how you've found this information and if you're willing to share :)
If lots of brands use the same manufacturer's pla why do prices differ from 1/3 to 1/2 from eachother?
I use Dasfilament alot, shipping cost to Belgium goes up the more rolls I order, it's ridiculous imo. The rolls are cheap but if you inlclude the shipping they're not cheap anymore.
What brand with the same pla or petg material would you recommend (that has the same manufacturer) in Europe?
Just got my first printer a monoprice select mini v2 and been watching videos to get started. By far one of the best production quality video on how to work with PLA. THANK YOU
Hey Thomas I like your vids, but In my experience but PLA+ is MUCH better then regular PLA.
And PLA is also ECO friendly material!!
Jonáš Bujok so it's biodegradable?
What about GMOs?
Mike K yes it is
@@mikek4610 depends what biodegradable means to you, it can take decades to biodegrade in normal conditions
6:50 PLA plus has no advntages other than the shiny look? You can get a shiny look from PLA silk so you'd basically be claiming PLA plus, or PLA pro PLA tough has ZERO advantages over standard PLA. That is a bold claim with zero evidence. That, combined with the obsession with the statement .6 is better than .4 makes me doubt this channel now.
PETG is like the ultimate filament. PP might get important too in the near future.
But I just love ABS because _every_ brand of it can be smoothed and it doesn’t need cooling..
Neues Kamerasetup? Sieht irgendwie besser aus als sonst ;-)
Well, i have "Accreate" white PLA, with Ender 3 V2... When it starts i need to hold down the first layer with tomething, because not even the raft stick normally, Not even with GLUE STICk....
I use 220/70
Do you have any experience with the new super advanced PLAs that have been showing up on the market recently? The one that caught my attention was 3D-Fuel's Pro PLA (aka APLA Plus). They make quite bold claims on their web site but I am not sure how much of this is marketing and how much performance related. Like for example: "Pro PLA (APLA+) has higher impact strength than ABS and Standard PLA with a heat resistance rivaling that of ABS!" or "Pro PLA / APLA+ boasts 4.3 times the impact strength of PLA." True, it requires annealing, but I am still not sure if I am convinced. For E50 per 1kg is not super cheap but on the other hand not prohibitively expensive either. Especially if it performs.
Very well filmed and edited videos. I love the smooth frame rate and quality.
The only criticism I'd have is the mic'd audio EQ.
But overall, thanks for the info with such nice delivery.
Totally disagree about PLA+. We’ve used both PLA & PLA+ for marketing material and prototyping and swear by PLA+ for strength, particularly in components where stress is running against the grain of the print.
How can i make aquarium decorations out of PLA.. Will it dissolve in time and if so, what kind of paints can i use on it to make it AQUARIUM FISH SAFE and protect it ?
In this video bed temperature was mentioned and I have a question for anyone that knows.
I’m printing a large volume box, 5mm walls hollow interior (200mm cube), and the bottom corners are curling slightly as it rises.
PLA
207 C
66 C bed
Should I raise or lower bed temperature as it rises? My first thought was to increase bed temps to generate heat as it rises but now I’m thinking should I lower instead? Since the top printing surface is cooler as it rises away from the build plate. I’m also using glue stick which seems to work very well.
Bed temps up or down?
Tom, I believe that you are the most professional 3d print man to come to for this...so...here is my question. I have a Divinci all-in-one printer pro. The very 1st layer on all my projects come out very Stringy...the bottom layer doesn't flow into the next line of print...it looks like wire sitting next to one another...but...the rest of my print comes out great.....the layer height melts into each layer making it pretty smooth and professional looking. so...my question is.....is....how do i FIX that very first layer on the bottom of my project to flow into each other. thanks...john from Kansas.
Idk, on my ender 3 (gembird PLA), i usually print with max possible speed, allowed by cuts - 150mm/s, and except some minor under extrudes or something, quality is pretty good...
Very informative and helpful. Thanks!
Do you sell PLA?? I want the 4043D Natureworks pellets, but I'm from México, I want it, ys for researching porpuses I need it this week!!
great...i had just started at 3d world...and your videos are amazing, too much to learn about....thanks..a big hug from BRAZIL.
Noob question: what about the safety? Especially if the printer is placed in non workshop area, i.e. kitchen, living or bedroom? I have been thinking about buying Prusa, but I'm a bit concerned about the possible..fumes? Are there even any :D
Nice, Tom! Us Enginerdlings love the detailed info. Can't wait for more videos in this series!
Best word ever.
hi i use pla .and i draw somtimes. parts .use sketchup2017, first.
when i finish drawing.
i open cura and ask for a stl file i draw.
but after 11 procent it stops printing.
it dos it evry time.
what good be the problem
but when i use a stl file from thingiverse .it prints normal too 100 procend.
Try formatting your SD and try the print again.
Great video 😊 now i understand why my prints come out matt when my amazon basics black is shiny. Even sometimes i have different finishes in one print.
Now i traced it back to my print speed an my filament not having enough time to heat up. Will do some testing 😊
German "Grundierlack" :D
Very nice video. Learned some new facst about PAL. Thank you.
You forgot to mention how unpredictably variable PLA can be, with very obvious differences in quality of printed items between say, different colours from the same manufacturer, or even just a few degrees difference (like between winter and summer printing) of the same reel, and of course different makes being seemingly different products entirely. It also ages quickly on the reel seemingly no matter how its stored, with 6 month old reels being much more brittle even when you think you've stored it perfectly. Has anyone done any tests of the strength of printed items after a year or two? That seems to be a very variable factor too.
Hello, love video, I have a question: I need to make a resin blank of a pla 3D printed cookie cutter. How can I prevent the resin from sticking to the cookie cutter. Thank you
What print media is the strongest when completed.
thanks Tom.
I saw that there are Engineering versions of PLA, what are the advantages or pitfalls from using them?
Greetings from the Galilee.
What about the toxicity of PLA? What kind of material is it? A child will put it in its mouth. Except for the danger of swallowing, what about the material itself?
I’m looking for a micro printer and I just seen you pull out a super small one at around 1:43 min i know you noted no cooling fan but can you tell me which printer this is? Thanks! Keep up the awesome videos👍
I was surprised to see you use one of my Raspberry Pi case Tom, hope you like it :D
Any hints on storage conditions like humidity &c?
Vacuum bag with dry air
0:15 I too am a closeted PLA only printer but I am not ready to tell my parents yet...
Didn’t realize pla+ sucked. That’s all I bought with my ender. Ordering regular now
"PLA (People's Liberation Army) everyone knows it, everyone loves it"
You are telling me a thermistor can be off by ten degrees c? That's almost 30 degrees f... that's pretty sad if true... I can't imagine it could be that far off...
I a beginner in 3d printing.. no matter what I do the print quality is worse.. as I am using pla.. it breaks even with the small pressure which I had applied to pick it up from the bed
I didn't know you could solvent weld PLA! Awesome
I got a tronxy xy2 pro the updated one for xmad and It doesn't say its compatible with tpu and I don't no if I shud get sum and just try or do I need to upgrade hardware sum plases on the net say it can no problem but I really don't want to brake my printer please if anyone can point me in the right direction would be much appreciated thanks
Great video, thanks! Just started printing this weekend and of course used PLA, but have no clue to what it is and what it is not.
Great video. Thank you! How to design for the 3D printer to print? Any suggestion?
I thought PLA + was supposed to be a stronger, more heat resistent, more resilient material....
I'm also very curious about this - I've only used eSun PLA+. Should I look to PLA?
My experience with PLA plus has been very good. It prints great and It’s definitely stronger than standard PLA.
Hi Thomas, loved the video. Can you tell me does pla printed molds stick to hot glue or resin. Thank you.
People's Liberation Army - PLA
yes comrade
You cvan try drilling your plastic in reverse direction, this way the tip of the drilling point doesn't bite on the plastic too hard...
Haha early . Number 6. Love the videos man.
PLA is for decorations or toys, it is very weak material, not good to make something structural, it melts and cracks easily.