A quick word of the build volume. The Ender 3 has always been officially listed as 220 x 220mm even though it is capable of reaching to 235 x 235mm. This printer is listed as 235 x 235mm but there is room for additional travel on X and Y. Once the firmware is open source, the necessary tweaks can be made and the area will be closer to 250 x 250mm.
Vishal Pai I believe I’ve seen the actual bed size is 245x255 with an actual printing area of 235x235. I don’t remember which video I saw it on but the Wham Bam prez chimed in on a live review and it was measured so (apparently) Wham Bam could start the process to bring their magic to this printer.
@@jamesmiller7278 that was me :-) and yes "physical" dimensions are 245x250 I did not check to see if the kinematics can actually physical reach those dimensions. I will check when I have it on the bench again.
Nerys Thanks Chris for chiming in to clarify who’s stream I was watching. I thought it was yours with that lovely extruded debacle but I didn’t want to mis-identify whose it was until I had time to confirm... but you beat me to it! BTW, what’s the story with the channel name Nerys? Good job diagnosing the extruder on your live stream. AND we can’t forget to give a shout out to Michael for his bang on reviews and consistently great work! (He’s cost me a fortune buying a lot of the kits he’s highlighted... I’ve got an Ender Extended 400 kit sitting here waiting to be installed on one of my Ender 3’s)
lol, I actually did start using female forms as benchmarks. It's amazing how well they work. Little bits of overhang and detail, but not too much, etc. If nothing else, better than looking at a little boat all the time...
I know there isn't much hype behind this printer anymore, but I thought I should share my experience: I got 3 from kickstarter and those quickly more than paid for themselves. Fast forward 2 years and now I have 39 of these machines (+14 E3V2s and +3E3's). The CR6 SE is a fantastic printer. The only real upgrade I've done is updating the firmware to the community firmware. They are reliable out of the box. The hotend design does cause clogs sometimes, but once you know how to properly assemble the bowden tube and nozzle its not a big deal. They are easy to work on and the parts are high quality. 3D printer fans are notorious for failing and these are no different- but it is really easy because of the connectors at the hot end assembly. Overall, the value for your money is practically unbeatable. I am still buying these printers for my print farm- even though it's been over 2 years since they were released. I sincerely believe that this is the best machine Creality has ever produced.
I bought one 3 days ago for 278 but still haven’t taken it out the box . I am nervous from the reviews I have read about the problems it’s had and some of the RUclips vids . Thinking of getting a anycubic kobra go . I already have a ender pro
@@petermaerkitz2846 because this has auto levelling, silent board, and belt tensioning! Touch screen doesn't matter too much but does add price, it's a more cost effective printer than an ender for Quality of life etc
@@petermaerkitz2846 Because by the time you add an 32 bit silent board, filament runout, and auto leveling your already like at the same price as this or more from the base ender 3. Then you also have things like the nicer build plate, touch screen, belt tensioning, etc. For the value nothing in the sub 500 dollar range comes close to be honest. I would say it compares closer to a prusa mark 3 which is a 750 dollar printer if you get it as a kit version.
Thanks for the post. I already ordered 2 CR6-E's on Kickstarter. This will be my first 3D printer, so I found your commentary invaluable. Thanks again for excellent content.
Using a load cell for nozzle tip levelling is a great idea. It gives the exact print surface level, but this only works if there is absolutely no filament at the tip! However, to get the most accurate reading, both nozzle and bed should be at printing temperature, with no filament oozing out the nozzle. Since they aren't using the load cell as an active bed leveller during the print, I'll stick with the BLtouch which is a more practical level sensor.
@@danlightowler4259 I don't think so. I presently have a BLTouch on my Ender 3 & level prior to every print. If I could just level once and forget it after that, I would be printing sooner every time after that.
Correct. this is why it heats the nozzle to 120' when it does leveling. this is so if there is any filament it can squish out of the way and be a minimal effect on leveling (you should still make sure its clean!!) this is one of the first machines (I believe seemecnc might have a machine that does this as well) that understands "true zero" what this means is the printer "actually knows" where the nozzle tip and the bed are. not an adjusted value but true zero. and this is a big deal. when you set z offset your not really setting an offset. you are literally setting "first layer height" from true 0. this means for example you can change the bed and just click "auto level" and you are done. you can change the nozzle and just click auto level and you are done. you can not do this with any other system because all of those other systems depend on predefined offsets to "get you to" true 0. this one does not. I am going to abuse the hell out of it. I really hope it holds up well because its pretty darned neat!
Michael, as always, your presentation is great, its insightful, detail oriented and also presents an overall perspective that helps us all understand vastly better than we would without you! Thank you for that! I do have a concern however. You said you tested the thermal runaway of the CR-6 by disconnecting the heater and watching the temperature drop. This would happen regardless of thermal runaway protection or not. You must know this. Take a breath, and please invest the time to clarify this. Keep up the good work! Thanks!
Fantastic deep dive Michael. This looks like a very good machine indeed, I especially like the use of the strain gauge for levelling. Of course, the lined hot end is a concern, but like you said, I bet MicroSwiss will come up with a conversion/adaptation. Kudos to Creality for listening and making the improvements.
what im honestly most impressed with are those tools it comes with. Full size SD card and the painters tool is by fat the best tool to use for removing prints. Ive never used my ender 3s spatula. All the other upgrade are still amazing. I pray that reality makes a larger scale version of this then i am SOLD
Thank you for the detailed look at the CR-6 SE. I backed it on Kickstarter the moment Joel's review came out, but have been waiting for someone to come out with a more detailed look at the unit. Really appreciate you testing the upgradability and the detailed look into the auto bed leveling system, both were high on my list of questions. Many thanks for the time you put into making this video!
Appreciate the overview and totally agree that a larger build volume would have made this thing pretty damn great. I backed on Kickstarter so I got in at $300...for that money I think it's a pretty good deal. If the price was >$400 retail I'd expect the build volume to match the CR-10.
Very nice overview of this new printer. The printer has a bunch of nice features. It'll be interesting to see how the printer holds up after some significant use time. The ABL is an interesting system, again it will be interesting to see how reliable it stays over time. Thanks for the great videos Michael.
1st gen is never a good idea - My CR-10 is first gen for example, and without a BL-touch I was stuck with a very small printing area as the bed is crooked as all hell (over 1mm) - remember that you don't have the possibility to level the bed - as such I wish you a lot of luck and a lot of fun printing, but don't hesitate to use that warranty if you spot a defect, really really don't - they're going to go on PR mode at launch, use it. May this printer kick ass
@@pixelsafoison It's not 1st gen, this is the 8th generation of their Ender design. Your CR10 was the 1st Generation of their CR design. Besides every review I have seen, which have all been on final hardware, have shown it to be a very good printer!
Great video! Lots of details uncovered that are hard to find online (due to the Kickstarter strategy). Loved the comparison not only to the much cheaper Ender 3 but more expensive models.
Hello your videos are fantastic I do have the CR10S and had it a few years without a problem I then bought a Geeetech A30T over a year ago as I fancied 3 colour print and I had problem after problem with it so I offloaded recently as it was just stuck in a cupboard and now fancy buying this CR-6 SE to go with the CR10S seen a few videos on this printer which helped make me my mind up...
Great review! Probably the more complex direct drive and all metal hotend requirements are the biggest downsides for the CR-6 for me, I'm also not going to say SE, the name just gets too long. I think the printer does a lot of things right and really pushes the standards for 3D printing forward.
I think this is the new standard in low-cost 3d-printing. As long as their quality control doesn't go to hell as they scale up the volume production, the value for money is unbeatable. Its more expensive than an E3/E3 Pro but you get all of the common upgrade features (they just forgot the Capricorn tubing), PLUS it saves people so much *time* and *fiddling*!! Don't underestimate how little most people want to "tinker" - they want to pull something out of a box and _use_ it. Those of us who like fiddling and DIY'ing are the exception, not the rule. ;-) The only downside is that this is probably going to dry up sales on the Ender3 Pro and E3 v2.
@@TheWingnut58 Not really even close. A bl touch costs 50 dollars alone. 25 dollars for the build surface, 25 for the touchscreen. That doesn't include the 32 bit board or silent stepper motor drivers which is another 50. Filament runout and upgraded extruder is another 25. Belt tensioners run 10-15 dollars per axis. The bed design is also much better because it is fastened in multiple points with solid connections not just in the 4 corners you won't ever have an issue with the bed warping from heating and cooling and getting a bow in the middle. It is actually a really smart solution that fixes a lot of the problems with heated beds. Honestly if you tried to upgrade an ender 3 to the same level your talking about spending 300-400 dollars aftermarket easy.
@@MaethorDerien First, it's an 8 Bit board, not 32, at that price....32 bit is an available upgrade. Second, you're shopping in all the wrong places and buying everything pre-made, All the belt tensioners are available on Thingiverse, as are several filament run out sensor designs and glass bed clamps. Hell, just buy an Anet ET4x for $160 shipped....it already has a 32 bit board (but not silent drivers) run out sensor, glass bed, touch screen etc....it comes standard with more upgrades that an Ender 3 to start with and is just as well built. At nearly $500 "early bird", this thing is still a friggin PIG with lipstick.....there are better machines for the money....
@@TheWingnut58 The 32bit is a free option KS reach days ago. Plus even when it goes retail it will have a 32bit, Creality already said that. KS is at $319 right now so I have no idea why you are claiming that it's close to $500.
This is a really good printer for people new to 3d printing. Everything important and complicated is taken care of. It's stable/solid build and seems to be an overall pleasant printer. I have an Anycubic i3 mega which is also easy to use but without auto leveling, so this is even simpler to use than that.
This does look like an upgraded Ender 3 for sure. Like you said in the video, if someone doesn't want to get their hands dirty with upgrading an E3, then it would definitely be worth it. The thing I like about the E3 is that you do need to get your hands dirty to upgrade it, which teaches you essential information about printing especially if you are new like me. It would be nice to have a printer that has a lot of bells and whistles, but the struggle of DIY is a great teacher.
Looking forward to more videos on this printer. I have backed the project on Kickstarter, and it will be my first 3D printer. Looking to learn lots from your future videos on this printer. All the best to you.
Your closing observations are spot on. I agree that the print bed should be a little larger like 275 x 275. It would be just about right as I find my CR-10 print bed a little too large at times and the Ender 3 print bed a little too small.
This seems like a good buy for someone who doesn't want to lose print area over an ABL when compared to an Ender-3, considering all the added features.
Thanks for your video. I will get my cr-6 tomorrow and the information in this videos made me feel safer with my purchase :) two friends use prusa mk3 but didn’t want to put 1000$ on a machine like that as my first printer. Fingers crossed !
@@lugnut082999 i finally decided to use the ender3v2. It works perfectly. First print was perfect after only levelling the bed. Nothing else to do. Also, using the Creality box makes it so much easier. A lot of option in the slicing process. I would suggest using the Prusa slicer to have more options.
A Lot of you hate against the PTFE lined hotends, I have used them for years, and this is what I've found. PLA/PETG/ABS/TPU all print well. PTFE hotends can print every filament other than Nylon or PolyCarbonite. The problem you had was cheap PTFE Tube, poorly assembled hotend from factory. The key is to have ZERO gap, completely flush fit of the PTFE tube in the hotend, AND a properly locked collar to prevent the tube from pulling up. Step 1: Get Capricorn Tube (Buy from the OEM.. many places sell fakes, including Amazon) Step 2: Cut PTFE Tube with a proper Tube Cutter (Nothing Else!, not a knife/razor blade/side cutters, ect) Step 3: Loosen Tube Collar on Hotend, Loosen Nozzle a tiny bit, push PTFE Tube down until it bottoms, heat hotend up to 220-240, now tighten top lock collar, now tighten nozzle. If you have done ALL of those things, AND used Capricorn Tubing, cut with a tube cutter, YOU will not have leaks, or burned up PTFE tube. You can print all day at 255 deg with real Capricorn PTFE Tubing, it will not burn. IF you eliminate the potential for gaps in Creality's hotend, it will NOT leak If you are clogging or jamming after doing the above, it's your slicer settings.
The only reason I use all-metal is because I have a parrot, birds have waaaaaay too much of an effective respiratory system - I'm never going to risk offgasing just because the manufacturer is like "yeaaaah... prolly fine". Most people hate on bowden simply because it's the "standard",, the "stock hot end", we all remember our first prints years back, nothing sticked, the bed was warped, no trinamics and so on and so forth. Usually you buy upgrades when you become more experienced. You get a new heated bed, you get a new board, new drivers, a bltouch, a pi4 for octoprint, a 7" capa display for octodash... - without realizing it the worries that you had at first, meaning merely praying for the darn thing to stick and so on, are all linked to the point where the machine was noisy and using bowden. People merely see all-metal as an upgrade, whereas it has it's own flaws when clogging for example - so they're bound to want the upgrade for free, as if it would fix proper layer height and settings when the darn thing isn't even enclosed. We are all made out of statistics, we wouldn't be assholes to each other otherwise :p
Thanks Michael. A great video covering often asked questions. I think I would stick to a self modified Ender-3 for the price. But as you say that will require getting my hands dirty. The CR-6 SE looks pretty good for someone who wants the features without mucking around. Thanks
I think this printer is good for the industry. More people can get into 3D printing with less issues. With an Ender 3.0 Pro and a Creality CR-10 V2 My next printer will be a railcore-ii-300zlt!
I tried and was burned by multiple Kickstarter marketing campaigns. I will never do so again. I will buy the product only after it is available in the market.
Another great video, awesome stuff to get some very factual answers on this new printer. :-) Give your Prusa Mini the full bondtech upgrades. It makes them perform as they should have out of the box. I fully rate the change of heat break and extruder.
I have the unit and it’s a nice printer, but there are issues with poor quality parts like the switch. Bugs with the run out sensor and other QC issues. When the bugs are fixed it going to be nice, but right now would not buy this printer until MB burning and Switch burning and filament sensor issues are resolved. Creality is very slow to respond to many user issues.
Cracking job. If this was out a year ago I would have got it instead of the Ender 3, which probably cost as much with all the upgrades. Are you likely to get the Ender 6 to review? Much more interested in corexy now I have had the Ender 3.
I believe Chuck mentioned the build volume being bigger than the Ender 3. The ender 3 bed is 235, but it's listed as 220 build volume, and the Ender 6 is 250 bed size and 235 effective build volume. Edit: Ender 6 is 245x255 physical bed size according to Chuck (7m45s ish into his vid)
I've just added a pinned post to address this. At the moment the firmware is preventing the nozzle from going further than 235mm but once we have the firmware we can use more of the bed (but not all because of the clips).
the biggest problem with this printer is that it is new and nobody is really using it. there are a ton of guides and accessories for ender 3s and cr-10s, but i can't find information like what is the max travel speed or guides on how to do things. i'm not sure that will improve that much, the printer doesn't seem like it will be super popular compared to others.
It's bad that it can't work with Linear Advance! It's almost like a standard now. The printing volume is small indeed (for the price). Also a proper full-metal heatbreak should be an option (for the same money). I'm not aiming to print with PLA usually.
I watched Creality strip down the nozzle and noticed that the PTFE tube feeds down a long metal tube between the input coupler and the back of the nozzle. I did not get an answer from Creality, but I asked whether they intend to offer an alternative tube with a filament-sized inner throat, to enable conversion to an all-metal hotend. Maybe Michael can get an answer on that one...
Unless you are printing polycarbon or Nylon. You don't need a metal hot end. PLA/PETG/ABS/TPU can ALL be printed reliably and safely with a high quality PTFE tube. (Note the HQ part) I can print all of these for days on end, can run up to 260 if needed to. You do have to properly assemble your hot end, take it apart, back off the nozzle a tiny bit, unscrew the collar on top, now push the ptfe tube farther down, heat up hot end, tighten tube collar and nozzle. If your tube is square, it will not leak, if it is a capricorn tube, it will not burn, even at 260. The rest is your slicer settings. All Metal will jam easier, it's not as slippery as a ptfe lined throat.
@@mr.spongylikeaboss4987 A high quality PTFE tube costs like a good Ti-all metal heatbreak :D Guess which one should I choose. My PTFE liner degraded a lot... caused few bad prints and at the end clogged the hot end. Any stick has two ends...
Hello everyone, I launched (as usual) a print on my CR6-SE and after a while the nozzle was fixed and on the screen the message "Machine encountered an exceptional error 204 (Click Reboot) impossible to press on the Confirm button so I did a start / stop What is this error?
My CR-6 SE cannot manually change filament. In Slicer I set change filament from some height but printer do not stop for changeing. I use PrusaSlicer, Could this Creality 3D printer change filament from Gcode? Thanks
Absolutely great job addressing the WHY and HOWs! I very much enjoyed this video (you are well spoken and thorough) as always! Now.. do you hav $379 USD or $700 CAD (exaggeration) lying around doing nothing? - I want it and I have 3 x Ender 3's!!!
I backed the printer on kickstarter for 320 usd. I have an ender 3 but I don't feel comfortable upgrading it yet. I trust creality so I think it will be worth it,.
They have another problem. The run out filament sensor. The printer stop and display says filament run out but the filament has run out. Hit resume and the printer goes back to printing. What’s up with that?
This weekend I spent 48 hours diagnosing under extrusion in my Ender 3. Replaced bowden tube, nozzle, the extruder gear and finally the hotend... still very under extruded... It turns out don't ever turn on "Filament > E in mm3" in marlin! As soon as I turned it off problem sorted!
yes E in mm3 is volumetric extrusion, it is an option available in Prusa slicer. the filament in not measured in millimeters but in volume of filament (mm3) edit: I am using it with Marlin but apart of switching from 1.75mm to 3mm filament, it is not much useful but useful to use the same gcode on a farm of printers with different filaments Or if you have a realtime filament size detector (yes it exists) that can change the extrusion based on the filament diameter in realtime
Hope to see soon your review for the CR6 Max. I am on the point to consider a large printer (my basic needs are what is supported by this new unit (400x400x400). I saw your other videos of larger printers but the price tag and overall results did not convince me those are the ones I need. This one is "brand new" and seems (despite some shortcomings) to be a good printer with a robust design. I would expect the price to be more affordable soon (600-700) and in the case confirmed it is a good buy, perhaps my choice. Love to see your opinion soon!
Several times in fact. It was when I was testing the soft TPU so it was already hard and then I kept on forgetting to lock the extruder on top of that.
hello can you help me choose? in your opinion between cr 6 Se and artillery genius pro? Ah, I don't have to print flexible filaments. thank you very much
I bought this used. First time I was trying it it started fine but it didnt take long before it started clumping up. I am a first time user. Why is this happening? Should I take of the extruder to see if it clean? Is it to close to the bed or not close enough? I ran the auto levelling and that worked just fine. What am I doing wrong. Happy for any replies. And also there is only two choices for filament. How do you put in to use another type of filament ?
A friend that wanted a machine that he do not need to hack and modify. At first I recommended this machine but we found out that shipping cost for some places (such as israel) are almost as the price of the machine it self. We were planning to back them up in kickstarter but we can afford the double price for shipping.
Hi, I want to know if the CR-6 SE Motherboard is 8 bits or 32bits. In the english product page they say "A Quiet Printer: 32-bit silent motherboard, ATmega2560 control chip..." Ok, BUT the ATmega2560 is an 8 bits microcontroller, so they are saying two different things at once.
I couldn't find a date, I now went for the Prusa Mini instead... It currently has a long backorder but it seems more reliable to me, especially with the customer support.
Don't suppose you will he reviewing the CR-10 PRO V2? I'm looking for a higher hills volume printer of about that size but not sure what to get Edit: just finished the video, I am loving this printer. However with the bed leveling, what if the bed is warped or the frame is bent? If something is wonky how does it deal with that? You can't change the springs like you may be able to on some
does using octoprint to control the printer directly (to print for instance) conflict with the auto-level? if you're directing it to move directly, does the board know to offset your gcode commands according to the level settings?
why does it have z-offset when it's leveling with the nozzle? wasn't z-offset used to determine distance between probe and nozzle? distance between nozzle and nozzle shouldn't need an offset?
i don't like not being able to see extractor working... also on the auto level do it leave nozzle at a fixed distance after auto leveling,or does it lower or raise nozzle during printing to keep distance exactly the same on every part of the bed... i ask since there is no such thing is a perfectly flat consistent surface in most cases.... thanks
I never had good long term consistency with any physical based ABL sensors like this and the BLTouch. I wonder how consistent this system will be long term after say 6+ months. Also wanted to add, the strain gauge type setups have been used across various DIY/RepRap projects over the last decade and it's been a mixed bag. Really wish they went with a sensor like the EZABL.
Hello I have watched you video about how to update the firmware on the Ender 3. My question is “will we lose the function “resume printing while power off” or it will still be available?
I’ve had the printer for about 4 months and having layering issues. New to printing but I’ve changed nozzle, cleaned tubing, ensured proper heat settings, leveled bed ..... what do I try next?
A quick word of the build volume. The Ender 3 has always been officially listed as 220 x 220mm even though it is capable of reaching to 235 x 235mm. This printer is listed as 235 x 235mm but there is room for additional travel on X and Y. Once the firmware is open source, the necessary tweaks can be made and the area will be closer to 250 x 250mm.
Is the bed 250*250 to allow that or it will need a new bed once 250*250 is enabled?
Vishal Pai I believe I’ve seen the actual bed size is 245x255 with an actual printing area of 235x235. I don’t remember which video I saw it on but the Wham Bam prez chimed in on a live review and it was measured so (apparently) Wham Bam could start the process to bring their magic to this printer.
@@jamesmiller7278 that was me :-) and yes "physical" dimensions are 245x250 I did not check to see if the kinematics can actually physical reach those dimensions. I will check when I have it on the bench again.
Nerys Thanks Chris for chiming in to clarify who’s stream I was watching. I thought it was yours with that lovely extruded debacle but I didn’t want to mis-identify whose it was until I had time to confirm... but you beat me to it! BTW, what’s the story with the channel name Nerys? Good job diagnosing the extruder on your live stream. AND we can’t forget to give a shout out to Michael for his bang on reviews and consistently great work! (He’s cost me a fortune buying a lot of the kits he’s highlighted... I’ve got an Ender Extended 400 kit sitting here waiting to be installed on one of my Ender 3’s)
The Ender 3 Pro comes with 235 x 235 bed enabled by default.
I like the new benchmark to go along with the Benchy, The Nipply
05:45 ??? Chinese are naughty boys, especially communists
lol, I actually did start using female forms as benchmarks. It's amazing how well they work. Little bits of overhang and detail, but not too much, etc. If nothing else, better than looking at a little boat all the time...
Yep - nicer than a toy dog!
It's absent from "models featured in this video" section :'(
I know there isn't much hype behind this printer anymore, but I thought I should share my experience:
I got 3 from kickstarter and those quickly more than paid for themselves. Fast forward 2 years and now I have 39 of these machines (+14 E3V2s and +3E3's). The CR6 SE is a fantastic printer. The only real upgrade I've done is updating the firmware to the community firmware. They are reliable out of the box. The hotend design does cause clogs sometimes, but once you know how to properly assemble the bowden tube and nozzle its not a big deal. They are easy to work on and the parts are high quality. 3D printer fans are notorious for failing and these are no different- but it is really easy because of the connectors at the hot end assembly.
Overall, the value for your money is practically unbeatable. I am still buying these printers for my print farm- even though it's been over 2 years since they were released. I sincerely believe that this is the best machine Creality has ever produced.
Thank you for this information, I will definitely be getting one myself now.
I bought one 3 days ago for 278 but still haven’t taken it out the box . I am nervous from the reviews I have read about the problems it’s had and some of the RUclips vids . Thinking of getting a anycubic kobra go . I already have a ender pro
I would definitely buy this machine is I didn't buy my Ender 3 10 months ago
Two never hurt
rewop why?......200$ or less for one of the best 3d printer you can buy!
@@petermaerkitz2846 because this has auto levelling, silent board, and belt tensioning! Touch screen doesn't matter too much but does add price, it's a more cost effective printer than an ender for Quality of life etc
@@petermaerkitz2846 Because by the time you add an 32 bit silent board, filament runout, and auto leveling your already like at the same price as this or more from the base ender 3. Then you also have things like the nicer build plate, touch screen, belt tensioning, etc. For the value nothing in the sub 500 dollar range comes close to be honest. I would say it compares closer to a prusa mark 3 which is a 750 dollar printer if you get it as a kit version.
I'm buying this machine if I get drunk enough. CR-10s was my previous purchase early 2018.
Thanks for the post. I already ordered 2 CR6-E's on Kickstarter. This will be my first 3D printer, so I found your commentary invaluable. Thanks again for excellent content.
Love you teaching tech keep doing what you doing!!!!
I’ve got to say yours was the video I’ve been waiting for. Anyone can go over the specs but I really enjoy your more technical look into things
The CR-6 is definitely homing at a much slower speed. Thank you for this review though, it goes into much greater detail than anyone else's videos.
Using a load cell for nozzle tip levelling is a great idea. It gives the exact print surface level, but this only works if there is absolutely no filament at the tip! However, to get the most accurate reading, both nozzle and bed should be at printing temperature, with no filament oozing out the nozzle. Since they aren't using the load cell as an active bed leveller during the print, I'll stick with the BLtouch which is a more practical level sensor.
It should not be necessary to level this printer before every print. Levelling can be done before loading a filament.
@@ThinkersBluff still a bit more work than BL isn't it
@@danlightowler4259 I don't think so. I presently have a BLTouch on my Ender 3 & level prior to every print. If I could just level once and forget it after that, I would be printing sooner every time after that.
Correct. this is why it heats the nozzle to 120' when it does leveling. this is so if there is any filament it can squish out of the way and be a minimal effect on leveling (you should still make sure its clean!!)
this is one of the first machines (I believe seemecnc might have a machine that does this as well) that understands "true zero"
what this means is the printer "actually knows" where the nozzle tip and the bed are. not an adjusted value but true zero. and this is a big deal.
when you set z offset your not really setting an offset. you are literally setting "first layer height" from true 0. this means for example you can change the bed and just click "auto level" and you are done. you can change the nozzle and just click auto level and you are done. you can not do this with any other system because all of those other systems depend on predefined offsets to "get you to" true 0. this one does not. I am going to abuse the hell out of it. I really hope it holds up well because its pretty darned neat!
@@nerys71, I knew that because I watched your video.
4 months later and "ask me how I know" still got me good!
Michael, as always, your presentation is great, its insightful, detail oriented and also presents an overall perspective that helps us all understand vastly better than we would without you! Thank you for that! I do have a concern however. You said you tested the thermal runaway of the CR-6 by disconnecting the heater and watching the temperature drop. This would happen regardless of thermal runaway protection or not. You must know this. Take a breath, and please invest the time to clarify this. Keep up the good work! Thanks!
Great overview. The clarity and thoroughness of your content is very impressive.
I think your video was OUTSTANDING; A Supplement to the others if you will. i look forward to your official review!
As always, Michael great job....look forward to the in depth review, at a later date!
Fantastic deep dive Michael. This looks like a very good machine indeed, I especially like the use of the strain gauge for levelling. Of course, the lined hot end is a concern, but like you said, I bet MicroSwiss will come up with a conversion/adaptation. Kudos to Creality for listening and making the improvements.
what im honestly most impressed with are those tools it comes with. Full size SD card and the painters tool is by fat the best tool to use for removing prints. Ive never used my ender 3s spatula. All the other upgrade are still amazing. I pray that reality makes a larger scale version of this then i am SOLD
Thank you for the detailed look at the CR-6 SE. I backed it on Kickstarter the moment Joel's review came out, but have been waiting for someone to come out with a more detailed look at the unit. Really appreciate you testing the upgradability and the detailed look into the auto bed leveling system, both were high on my list of questions. Many thanks for the time you put into making this video!
Appreciate the overview and totally agree that a larger build volume would have made this thing pretty damn great. I backed on Kickstarter so I got in at $300...for that money I think it's a pretty good deal. If the price was >$400 retail I'd expect the build volume to match the CR-10.
Very nice overview of this new printer. The printer has a bunch of nice features. It'll be interesting to see how the printer holds up after some significant use time. The ABL is an interesting system, again it will be interesting to see how reliable it stays over time. Thanks for the great videos Michael.
I've backed this, it's a huge bang for your buck!
Me too, I've been looking for about 6 months and decided its time to jump in. Can't wait!
1st gen is never a good idea - My CR-10 is first gen for example, and without a BL-touch I was stuck with a very small printing area as the bed is crooked as all hell (over 1mm) - remember that you don't have the possibility to level the bed - as such I wish you a lot of luck and a lot of fun printing, but don't hesitate to use that warranty if you spot a defect, really really don't - they're going to go on PR mode at launch, use it.
May this printer kick ass
@@pixelsafoison It's not 1st gen, this is the 8th generation of their Ender design.
Your CR10 was the 1st Generation of their CR design.
Besides every review I have seen, which have all been on final hardware, have shown it to be a very good printer!
Seams as a good starter printer.
Love the intent of opensource.
Thanks for sharing :-)
Great video! Lots of details uncovered that are hard to find online (due to the Kickstarter strategy). Loved the comparison not only to the much cheaper Ender 3 but more expensive models.
Hello your videos are fantastic I do have the CR10S and had it a few years without a problem I then bought a Geeetech A30T over a year ago as I fancied 3 colour print and I had problem after problem with it so I offloaded recently as it was just stuck in a cupboard and now fancy buying this CR-6 SE to go with the CR10S seen a few videos on this printer which helped make me my mind up...
Thanks, your videos are always thorough and to the points 👍🏻
Thank you very much. The presentation is very organized and informative.
Great review! Probably the more complex direct drive and all metal hotend requirements are the biggest downsides for the CR-6 for me, I'm also not going to say SE, the name just gets too long. I think the printer does a lot of things right and really pushes the standards for 3D printing forward.
I think this is the new standard in low-cost 3d-printing. As long as their quality control doesn't go to hell as they scale up the volume production, the value for money is unbeatable. Its more expensive than an E3/E3 Pro but you get all of the common upgrade features (they just forgot the Capricorn tubing), PLUS it saves people so much *time* and *fiddling*!! Don't underestimate how little most people want to "tinker" - they want to pull something out of a box and _use_ it. Those of us who like fiddling and DIY'ing are the exception, not the rule. ;-)
The only downside is that this is probably going to dry up sales on the Ender3 Pro and E3 v2.
I'd upgrade to this from my ender 3 just to have those bed clips, touch screen and bed leveling.
You can upgrade an Ender 3 pro with all that for far less cost...
You could buy some metal Ultimaker style clips for a few bucks
@@TheWingnut58 Not really even close. A bl touch costs 50 dollars alone. 25 dollars for the build surface, 25 for the touchscreen. That doesn't include the 32 bit board or silent stepper motor drivers which is another 50. Filament runout and upgraded extruder is another 25. Belt tensioners run 10-15 dollars per axis. The bed design is also much better because it is fastened in multiple points with solid connections not just in the 4 corners you won't ever have an issue with the bed warping from heating and cooling and getting a bow in the middle. It is actually a really smart solution that fixes a lot of the problems with heated beds. Honestly if you tried to upgrade an ender 3 to the same level your talking about spending 300-400 dollars aftermarket easy.
@@MaethorDerien First, it's an 8 Bit board, not 32, at that price....32 bit is an available upgrade.
Second, you're shopping in all the wrong places and buying everything pre-made, All the belt tensioners are available on Thingiverse, as are several filament run out sensor designs and glass bed clamps.
Hell, just buy an Anet ET4x for $160 shipped....it already has a 32 bit board (but not silent drivers) run out sensor, glass bed, touch screen etc....it comes standard with more upgrades that an Ender 3 to start with and is just as well built.
At nearly $500 "early bird", this thing is still a friggin PIG with lipstick.....there are better machines for the money....
@@TheWingnut58 The 32bit is a free option KS reach days ago. Plus even when it goes retail it will have a 32bit, Creality already said that.
KS is at $319 right now so I have no idea why you are claiming that it's close to $500.
This is a really good printer for people new to 3d printing. Everything important and complicated is taken care of. It's stable/solid build and seems to be an overall pleasant printer. I have an Anycubic i3 mega which is also easy to use but without auto leveling, so this is even simpler to use than that.
This does look like an upgraded Ender 3 for sure. Like you said in the video, if someone doesn't want to get their hands dirty with upgrading an E3, then it would definitely be worth it. The thing I like about the E3 is that you do need to get your hands dirty to upgrade it, which teaches you essential information about printing especially if you are new like me. It would be nice to have a printer that has a lot of bells and whistles, but the struggle of DIY is a great teacher.
Thanks for the video Michael, comprehensive and well presented. 👍🏼
I'd like to have seen some testing of the speed claims.
Thanks Michael, an excellent introduction to this new machine.
Looking forward to more videos on this printer. I have backed the project on Kickstarter, and it will be my first 3D printer. Looking to learn lots from your future videos on this printer. All the best to you.
Great video as always I did join this on Kickstarter. Being a new novice to 3d printing any good commentation such as yours is quite helpful thanks
Your closing observations are spot on. I agree that the print bed should be a little larger like 275 x 275. It would be just about right as I find my CR-10 print bed a little too large at times and the Ender 3 print bed a little too small.
This seems like a good buy for someone who doesn't want to lose print area over an ABL when compared to an Ender-3, considering all the added features.
For what its worth VERY OUTSTANDING! answered alot of my questions.. Thank you very much! :)
Thanks for your video. I will get my cr-6 tomorrow and the information in this videos made me feel safer with my purchase :) two friends use prusa mk3 but didn’t want to put 1000$ on a machine like that as my first printer. Fingers crossed !
Is it working I just bought one and am nervous because of reviews about kick statyer
@@lugnut082999 i finally decided to use the ender3v2. It works perfectly. First print was perfect after only levelling the bed. Nothing else to do. Also, using the Creality box makes it so much easier. A lot of option in the slicing process. I would suggest using the Prusa slicer to have more options.
Just picked one up for $170 to replace my ender 3v2. Looks to be a steal.
the short answer to both questions is yes.
How rigid is the frame? Yes
A Lot of you hate against the PTFE lined hotends, I have used them for years, and this is what I've found. PLA/PETG/ABS/TPU all print well.
PTFE hotends can print every filament other than Nylon or PolyCarbonite. The problem you had was cheap PTFE Tube, poorly assembled hotend from factory.
The key is to have ZERO gap, completely flush fit of the PTFE tube in the hotend, AND a properly locked collar to prevent the tube from pulling up.
Step 1: Get Capricorn Tube (Buy from the OEM.. many places sell fakes, including Amazon)
Step 2: Cut PTFE Tube with a proper Tube Cutter (Nothing Else!, not a knife/razor blade/side cutters, ect)
Step 3: Loosen Tube Collar on Hotend, Loosen Nozzle a tiny bit, push PTFE Tube down until it bottoms, heat hotend up to 220-240, now tighten top lock collar, now tighten nozzle.
If you have done ALL of those things, AND used Capricorn Tubing, cut with a tube cutter, YOU will not have leaks, or burned up PTFE tube.
You can print all day at 255 deg with real Capricorn PTFE Tubing, it will not burn. IF you eliminate the potential for gaps in Creality's hotend, it will NOT leak
If you are clogging or jamming after doing the above, it's your slicer settings.
The only reason I use all-metal is because I have a parrot, birds have waaaaaay too much of an effective respiratory system - I'm never going to risk offgasing just because the manufacturer is like "yeaaaah... prolly fine".
Most people hate on bowden simply because it's the "standard",, the "stock hot end", we all remember our first prints years back, nothing sticked, the bed was warped, no trinamics and so on and so forth. Usually you buy upgrades when you become more experienced. You get a new heated bed, you get a new board, new drivers, a bltouch, a pi4 for octoprint, a 7" capa display for octodash... - without realizing it the worries that you had at first, meaning merely praying for the darn thing to stick and so on, are all linked to the point where the machine was noisy and using bowden.
People merely see all-metal as an upgrade, whereas it has it's own flaws when clogging for example - so they're bound to want the upgrade for free, as if it would fix proper layer height and settings when the darn thing isn't even enclosed. We are all made out of statistics, we wouldn't be assholes to each other otherwise :p
Thanks Michael. A great video covering often asked questions. I think I would stick to a self modified Ender-3 for the price. But as you say that will require getting my hands dirty. The CR-6 SE looks pretty good for someone who wants the features without mucking around. Thanks
Would you recommend this printer or the Prusa Mini, I watched both your videos but still can't decide :/
I really liked the question and answer format.
Thanks for this and all your vids. I should be getting my printer tomorrow April 21 2021
That abl and a lot else are actually very innovative. Impressive.
Which motore driver is best ? I have bought ender 5 plus should i do any upgrade
I wish you make more video about CR-6 SE like to know what the best settings and some troubleshooting
I think this printer is good for the industry. More people can get into 3D printing with less issues. With an Ender 3.0 Pro and a Creality CR-10 V2 My next printer will be a railcore-ii-300zlt!
I tried and was burned by multiple Kickstarter marketing campaigns. I will never do so again. I will buy the product only after it is available in the market.
Just pre-ordered mine! Kick-start 🤙💯
Another great video, awesome stuff to get some very factual answers on this new printer. :-)
Give your Prusa Mini the full bondtech upgrades. It makes them perform as they should have out of the box.
I fully rate the change of heat break and extruder.
I have the unit and it’s a nice printer, but there are issues with poor quality parts like the switch. Bugs with the run out sensor and other QC issues. When the bugs are fixed it going to be nice, but right now would not buy this printer until MB burning and Switch burning and filament sensor issues are resolved. Creality is very slow to respond to many user issues.
Thanks Michael another informative video!
Hello on the cr6 se hie hi Made the e steps calibration? How i Made the Firmware Update? Thanks
i backed it, im really exited for it
If I may ask, what do I do if my glass bed is torn, which one should I get or other alternative?
Thanks. I will get this
Thank you
Own it. Love it.
I think it is very worth the price and plan on getting one!
Cracking job. If this was out a year ago I would have got it instead of the Ender 3, which probably cost as much with all the upgrades.
Are you likely to get the Ender 6 to review? Much more interested in corexy now I have had the Ender 3.
6:28 TPU material used and settings please? Maybe include them in the description.
I believe Chuck mentioned the build volume being bigger than the Ender 3. The ender 3 bed is 235, but it's listed as 220 build volume, and the Ender 6 is 250 bed size and 235 effective build volume.
Edit: Ender 6 is 245x255 physical bed size according to Chuck (7m45s ish into his vid)
I've just added a pinned post to address this. At the moment the firmware is preventing the nozzle from going further than 235mm but once we have the firmware we can use more of the bed (but not all because of the clips).
@@TeachingTech Great! :-) loved your vid btw, and that you didnt just basically reiterate the videos we've already seen :-)
the biggest problem with this printer is that it is new and nobody is really using it. there are a ton of guides and accessories for ender 3s and cr-10s, but i can't find information like what is the max travel speed or guides on how to do things. i'm not sure that will improve that much, the printer doesn't seem like it will be super popular compared to others.
It's bad that it can't work with Linear Advance! It's almost like a standard now.
The printing volume is small indeed (for the price). Also a proper full-metal heatbreak should be an option (for the same money). I'm not aiming to print with PLA usually.
I watched Creality strip down the nozzle and noticed that the PTFE tube feeds down a long metal tube between the input coupler and the back of the nozzle. I did not get an answer from Creality, but I asked whether they intend to offer an alternative tube with a filament-sized inner throat, to enable conversion to an all-metal hotend. Maybe Michael can get an answer on that one...
@@ThinkersBluff where did you see that?
Unless you are printing polycarbon or Nylon. You don't need a metal hot end. PLA/PETG/ABS/TPU can ALL be printed reliably and safely with a high quality PTFE tube. (Note the HQ part)
I can print all of these for days on end, can run up to 260 if needed to. You do have to properly assemble your hot end, take it apart, back off the nozzle a tiny bit, unscrew the collar on top, now push the ptfe tube farther down, heat up hot end, tighten tube collar and nozzle. If your tube is square, it will not leak, if it is a capricorn tube, it will not burn, even at 260.
The rest is your slicer settings. All Metal will jam easier, it's not as slippery as a ptfe lined throat.
@@mr.spongylikeaboss4987 A high quality PTFE tube costs like a good Ti-all metal heatbreak :D Guess which one should I choose.
My PTFE liner degraded a lot... caused few bad prints and at the end clogged the hot end. Any stick has two ends...
@@Benutzername0000 ruclips.net/video/uUWktSRnTk4/видео.html, 00:31:50
Hello everyone,
I launched (as usual) a print on my CR6-SE and after a while the nozzle was fixed and on the screen the message "Machine encountered an exceptional error 204 (Click Reboot) impossible to press on the Confirm button so I did a start / stop
What is this error?
My CR-6 SE cannot manually change filament. In Slicer I set change filament from some height but printer do not stop for changeing. I use PrusaSlicer, Could this Creality 3D printer change filament from Gcode? Thanks
Absolutely great job addressing the WHY and HOWs! I very much enjoyed this video (you are well spoken and thorough) as always! Now.. do you hav $379 USD or $700 CAD (exaggeration) lying around doing nothing? - I want it and I have 3 x Ender 3's!!!
$ 511 Cdn shipped. I just backed
Laughed pretty hard at your Octoprint terminal window suggesting New South Wales as an autocomplete 😂
I backed the printer on kickstarter for 320 usd. I have an ender 3 but I don't feel comfortable upgrading it yet. I trust creality so I think it will be worth it,.
They have another problem. The run out filament sensor. The printer stop and display says filament run out but the filament has run out. Hit resume and the printer goes back to printing. What’s up with that?
This weekend I spent 48 hours diagnosing under extrusion in my Ender 3. Replaced bowden tube, nozzle, the extruder gear and finally the hotend... still very under extruded... It turns out don't ever turn on "Filament > E in mm3" in marlin! As soon as I turned it off problem sorted!
yes E in mm3 is volumetric extrusion, it is an option available in Prusa slicer. the filament in not measured in millimeters but in volume of filament (mm3)
edit: I am using it with Marlin but apart of switching from 1.75mm to 3mm filament, it is not much useful
but useful to use the same gcode on a farm of printers with different filaments
Or if you have a realtime filament size detector (yes it exists) that can change the extrusion based on the filament diameter in realtime
What does Creality already sell for the same price as a CR-6 that prints twice as fast? A pair of Ender 3s.
$189 + $189 = $378; this printer is $319.
@@mathewcoppola8622 i bought mine for 160 - so close enough. prices are not the same everywhere, dude.
@@mathewcoppola8622 the printer is >$400 after Kickstarter
You're not wrong😂
@@Naomi-Wu after seeing your video Naomi I went ahead and backed :-) looks like a lot of bang for your buck as they say.
I really wish they'd change the ptfe hotends, its the only thing that i consistently get problems with, on all creality printers
Hope to see soon your review for the CR6 Max. I am on the point to consider a large printer (my basic needs are what is supported by this new unit (400x400x400). I saw your other videos of larger printers but the price tag and overall results did not convince me those are the ones I need. This one is "brand new" and seems (despite some shortcomings) to be a good printer with a robust design. I would expect the price to be more affordable soon (600-700) and in the case confirmed it is a good buy, perhaps my choice. Love to see your opinion soon!
8:28 "Ask me how I know." Hah!
Several times in fact. It was when I was testing the soft TPU so it was already hard and then I kept on forgetting to lock the extruder on top of that.
Bruh waste money
Thanks! Very informative!
Any idea if the PCBA from this printer will be compatible with Ender3? No one could answer me on the campaign page.
hello can you help me choose? in your opinion between cr 6 Se and artillery genius pro? Ah, I don't have to print flexible filaments. thank you very much
I bought this used. First time I was trying it it started fine but it didnt take long before it started clumping up. I am a first time user. Why is this happening? Should I take of the extruder to see if it clean? Is it to close to the bed or not close enough? I ran the auto levelling and that worked just fine. What am I doing wrong. Happy for any replies. And also there is only two choices for filament. How do you put in to use another type of filament ?
A friend that wanted a machine that he do not need to hack and modify. At first I recommended this machine but we found out that shipping cost for some places (such as israel) are almost as the price of the machine it self. We were planning to back them up in kickstarter but we can afford the double price for shipping.
Hi, I want to know if the CR-6 SE Motherboard is 8 bits or 32bits. In the english product page they say "A Quiet Printer: 32-bit silent motherboard, ATmega2560 control chip..." Ok, BUT the ATmega2560 is an 8 bits microcontroller, so they are saying two different things at once.
as there is, as yet, no Creality CR-6 profile, what slicer profile would you recommend using in Simplify3D?
Anyone know when this will be available for purchase? I missed the kickstarter
I couldn't find a date, I now went for the Prusa Mini instead... It currently has a long backorder but it seems more reliable to me, especially with the customer support.
Don't suppose you will he reviewing the CR-10 PRO V2? I'm looking for a higher hills volume printer of about that size but not sure what to get
Edit: just finished the video, I am loving this printer. However with the bed leveling, what if the bed is warped or the frame is bent? If something is wonky how does it deal with that? You can't change the springs like you may be able to on some
Thank you for this good video!
does using octoprint to control the printer directly (to print for instance) conflict with the auto-level? if you're directing it to move directly, does the board know to offset your gcode commands according to the level settings?
why does it have z-offset when it's leveling with the nozzle? wasn't z-offset used to determine distance between probe and nozzle? distance between nozzle and nozzle shouldn't need an offset?
i don't like not being able to see extractor working... also on the auto level do it leave nozzle at a fixed distance after auto leveling,or does it lower or raise nozzle during printing to keep distance exactly the same on every part of the bed... i ask since there is no such thing is a perfectly flat consistent surface in most cases.... thanks
got 2 se 6 love them
I never had good long term consistency with any physical based ABL sensors like this and the BLTouch. I wonder how consistent this system will be long term after say 6+ months. Also wanted to add, the strain gauge type setups have been used across various DIY/RepRap projects over the last decade and it's been a mixed bag. Really wish they went with a sensor like the EZABL.
Interesting, the EZABL was always flakey for me, I went back to a BLTouch about 2 years ago and haven't had a problem since.
Hi. Thank you for the video. It is normal that the bed is very loud If it moves faster?
Does the ABL need performed every time the printer is turned back on, or will it store the ABL results into the printer?
Hello
I have watched you video about how to update the firmware on the Ender 3. My question is “will we lose the function “resume printing while power off” or it will still be available?
Is the heat break PTFE lined? Because I really wanna be able to use PETG’s that I currently print a little over 240C (242-245)
I have the option of buying the i3 MK3s. Do you think in better to buy the Prusa or the CR6? Thank you
I’ve had the printer for about 4 months and having layering issues. New to printing but I’ve changed nozzle, cleaned tubing, ensured proper heat settings, leveled bed ..... what do I try next?
Which Simlify3D profile are you using with this printer. I do not show this model on my software