A quick word of the build volume. The Ender 3 has always been officially listed as 220 x 220mm even though it is capable of reaching to 235 x 235mm. This printer is listed as 235 x 235mm but there is room for additional travel on X and Y. Once the firmware is open source, the necessary tweaks can be made and the area will be closer to 250 x 250mm.
Vishal Pai I believe I’ve seen the actual bed size is 245x255 with an actual printing area of 235x235. I don’t remember which video I saw it on but the Wham Bam prez chimed in on a live review and it was measured so (apparently) Wham Bam could start the process to bring their magic to this printer.
@@jamesmiller7278 that was me :-) and yes "physical" dimensions are 245x250 I did not check to see if the kinematics can actually physical reach those dimensions. I will check when I have it on the bench again.
Nerys Thanks Chris for chiming in to clarify who’s stream I was watching. I thought it was yours with that lovely extruded debacle but I didn’t want to mis-identify whose it was until I had time to confirm... but you beat me to it! BTW, what’s the story with the channel name Nerys? Good job diagnosing the extruder on your live stream. AND we can’t forget to give a shout out to Michael for his bang on reviews and consistently great work! (He’s cost me a fortune buying a lot of the kits he’s highlighted... I’ve got an Ender Extended 400 kit sitting here waiting to be installed on one of my Ender 3’s)
lol, I actually did start using female forms as benchmarks. It's amazing how well they work. Little bits of overhang and detail, but not too much, etc. If nothing else, better than looking at a little boat all the time...
Thanks for the post. I already ordered 2 CR6-E's on Kickstarter. This will be my first 3D printer, so I found your commentary invaluable. Thanks again for excellent content.
Fantastic deep dive Michael. This looks like a very good machine indeed, I especially like the use of the strain gauge for levelling. Of course, the lined hot end is a concern, but like you said, I bet MicroSwiss will come up with a conversion/adaptation. Kudos to Creality for listening and making the improvements.
Thank you for the detailed look at the CR-6 SE. I backed it on Kickstarter the moment Joel's review came out, but have been waiting for someone to come out with a more detailed look at the unit. Really appreciate you testing the upgradability and the detailed look into the auto bed leveling system, both were high on my list of questions. Many thanks for the time you put into making this video!
Very nice overview of this new printer. The printer has a bunch of nice features. It'll be interesting to see how the printer holds up after some significant use time. The ABL is an interesting system, again it will be interesting to see how reliable it stays over time. Thanks for the great videos Michael.
Great video! Lots of details uncovered that are hard to find online (due to the Kickstarter strategy). Loved the comparison not only to the much cheaper Ender 3 but more expensive models.
Looking forward to more videos on this printer. I have backed the project on Kickstarter, and it will be my first 3D printer. Looking to learn lots from your future videos on this printer. All the best to you.
Michael, as always, your presentation is great, its insightful, detail oriented and also presents an overall perspective that helps us all understand vastly better than we would without you! Thank you for that! I do have a concern however. You said you tested the thermal runaway of the CR-6 by disconnecting the heater and watching the temperature drop. This would happen regardless of thermal runaway protection or not. You must know this. Take a breath, and please invest the time to clarify this. Keep up the good work! Thanks!
I know there isn't much hype behind this printer anymore, but I thought I should share my experience: I got 3 from kickstarter and those quickly more than paid for themselves. Fast forward 2 years and now I have 39 of these machines (+14 E3V2s and +3E3's). The CR6 SE is a fantastic printer. The only real upgrade I've done is updating the firmware to the community firmware. They are reliable out of the box. The hotend design does cause clogs sometimes, but once you know how to properly assemble the bowden tube and nozzle its not a big deal. They are easy to work on and the parts are high quality. 3D printer fans are notorious for failing and these are no different- but it is really easy because of the connectors at the hot end assembly. Overall, the value for your money is practically unbeatable. I am still buying these printers for my print farm- even though it's been over 2 years since they were released. I sincerely believe that this is the best machine Creality has ever produced.
I bought one 3 days ago for 278 but still haven’t taken it out the box . I am nervous from the reviews I have read about the problems it’s had and some of the RUclips vids . Thinking of getting a anycubic kobra go . I already have a ender pro
@@petermaerkitz2846 because this has auto levelling, silent board, and belt tensioning! Touch screen doesn't matter too much but does add price, it's a more cost effective printer than an ender for Quality of life etc
@@petermaerkitz2846 Because by the time you add an 32 bit silent board, filament runout, and auto leveling your already like at the same price as this or more from the base ender 3. Then you also have things like the nicer build plate, touch screen, belt tensioning, etc. For the value nothing in the sub 500 dollar range comes close to be honest. I would say it compares closer to a prusa mark 3 which is a 750 dollar printer if you get it as a kit version.
Appreciate the overview and totally agree that a larger build volume would have made this thing pretty damn great. I backed on Kickstarter so I got in at $300...for that money I think it's a pretty good deal. If the price was >$400 retail I'd expect the build volume to match the CR-10.
Thanks for your video. I will get my cr-6 tomorrow and the information in this videos made me feel safer with my purchase :) two friends use prusa mk3 but didn’t want to put 1000$ on a machine like that as my first printer. Fingers crossed !
@@lugnut082999 i finally decided to use the ender3v2. It works perfectly. First print was perfect after only levelling the bed. Nothing else to do. Also, using the Creality box makes it so much easier. A lot of option in the slicing process. I would suggest using the Prusa slicer to have more options.
Hello your videos are fantastic I do have the CR10S and had it a few years without a problem I then bought a Geeetech A30T over a year ago as I fancied 3 colour print and I had problem after problem with it so I offloaded recently as it was just stuck in a cupboard and now fancy buying this CR-6 SE to go with the CR10S seen a few videos on this printer which helped make me my mind up...
Thanks Michael. A great video covering often asked questions. I think I would stick to a self modified Ender-3 for the price. But as you say that will require getting my hands dirty. The CR-6 SE looks pretty good for someone who wants the features without mucking around. Thanks
Another great video, awesome stuff to get some very factual answers on this new printer. :-) Give your Prusa Mini the full bondtech upgrades. It makes them perform as they should have out of the box. I fully rate the change of heat break and extruder.
Great review! Probably the more complex direct drive and all metal hotend requirements are the biggest downsides for the CR-6 for me, I'm also not going to say SE, the name just gets too long. I think the printer does a lot of things right and really pushes the standards for 3D printing forward.
what im honestly most impressed with are those tools it comes with. Full size SD card and the painters tool is by fat the best tool to use for removing prints. Ive never used my ender 3s spatula. All the other upgrade are still amazing. I pray that reality makes a larger scale version of this then i am SOLD
This is a really good printer for people new to 3d printing. Everything important and complicated is taken care of. It's stable/solid build and seems to be an overall pleasant printer. I have an Anycubic i3 mega which is also easy to use but without auto leveling, so this is even simpler to use than that.
1st gen is never a good idea - My CR-10 is first gen for example, and without a BL-touch I was stuck with a very small printing area as the bed is crooked as all hell (over 1mm) - remember that you don't have the possibility to level the bed - as such I wish you a lot of luck and a lot of fun printing, but don't hesitate to use that warranty if you spot a defect, really really don't - they're going to go on PR mode at launch, use it. May this printer kick ass
@@pixelsafoison It's not 1st gen, this is the 8th generation of their Ender design. Your CR10 was the 1st Generation of their CR design. Besides every review I have seen, which have all been on final hardware, have shown it to be a very good printer!
Your closing observations are spot on. I agree that the print bed should be a little larger like 275 x 275. It would be just about right as I find my CR-10 print bed a little too large at times and the Ender 3 print bed a little too small.
@@TheWingnut58 Not really even close. A bl touch costs 50 dollars alone. 25 dollars for the build surface, 25 for the touchscreen. That doesn't include the 32 bit board or silent stepper motor drivers which is another 50. Filament runout and upgraded extruder is another 25. Belt tensioners run 10-15 dollars per axis. The bed design is also much better because it is fastened in multiple points with solid connections not just in the 4 corners you won't ever have an issue with the bed warping from heating and cooling and getting a bow in the middle. It is actually a really smart solution that fixes a lot of the problems with heated beds. Honestly if you tried to upgrade an ender 3 to the same level your talking about spending 300-400 dollars aftermarket easy.
@@MaethorDerien First, it's an 8 Bit board, not 32, at that price....32 bit is an available upgrade. Second, you're shopping in all the wrong places and buying everything pre-made, All the belt tensioners are available on Thingiverse, as are several filament run out sensor designs and glass bed clamps. Hell, just buy an Anet ET4x for $160 shipped....it already has a 32 bit board (but not silent drivers) run out sensor, glass bed, touch screen etc....it comes standard with more upgrades that an Ender 3 to start with and is just as well built. At nearly $500 "early bird", this thing is still a friggin PIG with lipstick.....there are better machines for the money....
@@TheWingnut58 The 32bit is a free option KS reach days ago. Plus even when it goes retail it will have a 32bit, Creality already said that. KS is at $319 right now so I have no idea why you are claiming that it's close to $500.
This seems like a good buy for someone who doesn't want to lose print area over an ABL when compared to an Ender-3, considering all the added features.
This does look like an upgraded Ender 3 for sure. Like you said in the video, if someone doesn't want to get their hands dirty with upgrading an E3, then it would definitely be worth it. The thing I like about the E3 is that you do need to get your hands dirty to upgrade it, which teaches you essential information about printing especially if you are new like me. It would be nice to have a printer that has a lot of bells and whistles, but the struggle of DIY is a great teacher.
Using a load cell for nozzle tip levelling is a great idea. It gives the exact print surface level, but this only works if there is absolutely no filament at the tip! However, to get the most accurate reading, both nozzle and bed should be at printing temperature, with no filament oozing out the nozzle. Since they aren't using the load cell as an active bed leveller during the print, I'll stick with the BLtouch which is a more practical level sensor.
@@danlightowler4259 I don't think so. I presently have a BLTouch on my Ender 3 & level prior to every print. If I could just level once and forget it after that, I would be printing sooner every time after that.
Correct. this is why it heats the nozzle to 120' when it does leveling. this is so if there is any filament it can squish out of the way and be a minimal effect on leveling (you should still make sure its clean!!) this is one of the first machines (I believe seemecnc might have a machine that does this as well) that understands "true zero" what this means is the printer "actually knows" where the nozzle tip and the bed are. not an adjusted value but true zero. and this is a big deal. when you set z offset your not really setting an offset. you are literally setting "first layer height" from true 0. this means for example you can change the bed and just click "auto level" and you are done. you can change the nozzle and just click auto level and you are done. you can not do this with any other system because all of those other systems depend on predefined offsets to "get you to" true 0. this one does not. I am going to abuse the hell out of it. I really hope it holds up well because its pretty darned neat!
I think this is the new standard in low-cost 3d-printing. As long as their quality control doesn't go to hell as they scale up the volume production, the value for money is unbeatable. Its more expensive than an E3/E3 Pro but you get all of the common upgrade features (they just forgot the Capricorn tubing), PLUS it saves people so much *time* and *fiddling*!! Don't underestimate how little most people want to "tinker" - they want to pull something out of a box and _use_ it. Those of us who like fiddling and DIY'ing are the exception, not the rule. ;-) The only downside is that this is probably going to dry up sales on the Ender3 Pro and E3 v2.
Cracking job. If this was out a year ago I would have got it instead of the Ender 3, which probably cost as much with all the upgrades. Are you likely to get the Ender 6 to review? Much more interested in corexy now I have had the Ender 3.
Hope to see soon your review for the CR6 Max. I am on the point to consider a large printer (my basic needs are what is supported by this new unit (400x400x400). I saw your other videos of larger printers but the price tag and overall results did not convince me those are the ones I need. This one is "brand new" and seems (despite some shortcomings) to be a good printer with a robust design. I would expect the price to be more affordable soon (600-700) and in the case confirmed it is a good buy, perhaps my choice. Love to see your opinion soon!
Absolutely great job addressing the WHY and HOWs! I very much enjoyed this video (you are well spoken and thorough) as always! Now.. do you hav $379 USD or $700 CAD (exaggeration) lying around doing nothing? - I want it and I have 3 x Ender 3's!!!
@@TeachingTech it's kind of a problem that takes no time to fix after you've done it once. While hot, Unscrew nozzle, push Bowden all the way through, remove plastic, pull Bowden out, screw new nozzle in, back out slightly, push Bowden it, then push Bowden all the way down and tighten nozzle. With the "fix" I've seen couplers unscrew easier. This means that you have to pay more attention to whether the hot end coupler is still tight after or before printing.
This will make a nice third printer for me. I am very interested in the bed leveling and touch screen, two things I have not added to my Ender3 PRO. I'm confident Creality will sell these, but am a bit ignorant on how kick starter works to throw money at it in order to save $100. Do you simply give them $320 (the current early bird price) and this pays for your printer? Or is the money given separate and you have to pay later for the printer as well? What about Shipping? How are those fees accounted for? I'm very curious how spare parts will be handled. This would be a worth while project to buy some of these parts and see what can be retro fitted to other printers such as the Enfer 3 assuming the code is open source.
That pays for the printer, you have an extra bit that you add for the shipping. It actually asks when you do the kickstarter where you are shipping to and adds that to the pledge.
It's bad that it can't work with Linear Advance! It's almost like a standard now. The printing volume is small indeed (for the price). Also a proper full-metal heatbreak should be an option (for the same money). I'm not aiming to print with PLA usually.
I watched Creality strip down the nozzle and noticed that the PTFE tube feeds down a long metal tube between the input coupler and the back of the nozzle. I did not get an answer from Creality, but I asked whether they intend to offer an alternative tube with a filament-sized inner throat, to enable conversion to an all-metal hotend. Maybe Michael can get an answer on that one...
Unless you are printing polycarbon or Nylon. You don't need a metal hot end. PLA/PETG/ABS/TPU can ALL be printed reliably and safely with a high quality PTFE tube. (Note the HQ part) I can print all of these for days on end, can run up to 260 if needed to. You do have to properly assemble your hot end, take it apart, back off the nozzle a tiny bit, unscrew the collar on top, now push the ptfe tube farther down, heat up hot end, tighten tube collar and nozzle. If your tube is square, it will not leak, if it is a capricorn tube, it will not burn, even at 260. The rest is your slicer settings. All Metal will jam easier, it's not as slippery as a ptfe lined throat.
@@mr.spongylikeaboss4987 A high quality PTFE tube costs like a good Ti-all metal heatbreak :D Guess which one should I choose. My PTFE liner degraded a lot... caused few bad prints and at the end clogged the hot end. Any stick has two ends...
I think this printer is good for the industry. More people can get into 3D printing with less issues. With an Ender 3.0 Pro and a Creality CR-10 V2 My next printer will be a railcore-ii-300zlt!
Several times in fact. It was when I was testing the soft TPU so it was already hard and then I kept on forgetting to lock the extruder on top of that.
I am more concerned about how much RAM will be on their board. My Marlin 2.0 firmware.bin presently consumes >260MB, which may mean giving up on something I like if I accept their 8-bit board.
not sure if i missed it, but i was curious about the out of box dimensional accuracy, my ender 3 pro isn't dimensionally accurate out of the box and i can't seem to figure out why its inaccurate, and the CR-6 SE looks like it has belt tensioners on both the X and Y and the bed ABL it has and filament sensor look like very nice additions
I think this sounds like a great first printer if money is not an issue. If on a budget the original Ender 3 still shines. For someone like me who has an upgraded CR10S is doesn't make sense as a second printer, as it doesn't do much more. I'm glad I went through the upgrade process, I learned a lot and am comfortable taking things apart. Which brings me to a video suggestion, assuming a user has a good working upgraded Ender 3-ish FDM printer, what would one consider for a second printer? Something that is more accurate? Resin? Bigger volume? Great video as always, thanks!
Been using my Ender 3 Pro for Face Shield frame production. I was looking into upgrading it and then heard about the Kickstarter for the 6 SE and decided to get the 6 SE. By the time the 6 SE comes in my poor Ender 3 may be worn out from all the face shield printing.
Same here. 24/7 printing of Prusa face shield parts for 2 months, now. I backed the CR-6 SE as my 2nd printer, because I see it as a step-up from the Ender 3 and better value than adding all those features to my Ender 3.
Yes price wise they're very similar. I've been thinking of an ender 5 pro as an upgrade to my existing cheap printer and am wondering if my money is better spent on this or should I stick with the ender 5 pro. Given after the campaign the price will jump by $100 it will make this more expensive than the Ender 5 Pro you have to ask if this printer is worth it given it will cost more.
hi, great video !! i decided to buy a new fdm printer now i have an anycubic 4max pro2.0, but i am not satisfied. I would like to buy a creality. can you recommend one that prints really well ?? thank you very much paolo from rome
I’d like to get a more “in depth” video (or help) on replacing / opening the extruder. I’ve had issues with it, so I opened it up.. tried to reinstall it, but I can’t manage to get the spring in decent position. Can you help me out???
why should a steel plate crack when the triggering force isnt even enough to pinch the surface? even if its faulty and crushes into the bed, it wont harm anything. the stepper is just not strong enough to do so.
I think he meant the new design extruder, not the hot end mount. Creality extruders have a habit of cracking at the pivot point. That is why so many of us add the metal ‘upgrade’ version. This new design with a straight feed path should stop the filament from eating into the arm, and hopefully the new mechanism will prove more robust.
Spot on first-look :) That ABL may not be suited for a "standard" direct drive, but I'd really like to see you try the Flex3drive G5 you already reviewed on the Seckit SK-GO as a possible upgrade on this new machine: I wonder if a lighter (in)direct drive would be a good trade-off or if the peculiar ABL system of this machine is too edgy even for that.
Don't suppose you will he reviewing the CR-10 PRO V2? I'm looking for a higher hills volume printer of about that size but not sure what to get Edit: just finished the video, I am loving this printer. However with the bed leveling, what if the bed is warped or the frame is bent? If something is wonky how does it deal with that? You can't change the springs like you may be able to on some
I bought this used. First time I was trying it it started fine but it didnt take long before it started clumping up. I am a first time user. Why is this happening? Should I take of the extruder to see if it clean? Is it to close to the bed or not close enough? I ran the auto levelling and that worked just fine. What am I doing wrong. Happy for any replies. And also there is only two choices for filament. How do you put in to use another type of filament ?
I've backed this on Kickstarter and it'll be my 1st printer. It looks a lot more refined than their current printers, so hoping it will give more consistent results out of the box. I'm wondering given that a strain gauge is used to achieve the auto bed levelling if there is any effect on accuracy due to temperature dependence of the strain gauge. I see the display board you show in your unit seems to have an area and pads to solder on a WiFi board. Also interested in how well the belt tensioners work. I'll probably go with the 32-bit board, guessing it'll be more capable but maybe less support initially.
A Lot of you hate against the PTFE lined hotends, I have used them for years, and this is what I've found. PLA/PETG/ABS/TPU all print well. PTFE hotends can print every filament other than Nylon or PolyCarbonite. The problem you had was cheap PTFE Tube, poorly assembled hotend from factory. The key is to have ZERO gap, completely flush fit of the PTFE tube in the hotend, AND a properly locked collar to prevent the tube from pulling up. Step 1: Get Capricorn Tube (Buy from the OEM.. many places sell fakes, including Amazon) Step 2: Cut PTFE Tube with a proper Tube Cutter (Nothing Else!, not a knife/razor blade/side cutters, ect) Step 3: Loosen Tube Collar on Hotend, Loosen Nozzle a tiny bit, push PTFE Tube down until it bottoms, heat hotend up to 220-240, now tighten top lock collar, now tighten nozzle. If you have done ALL of those things, AND used Capricorn Tubing, cut with a tube cutter, YOU will not have leaks, or burned up PTFE tube. You can print all day at 255 deg with real Capricorn PTFE Tubing, it will not burn. IF you eliminate the potential for gaps in Creality's hotend, it will NOT leak If you are clogging or jamming after doing the above, it's your slicer settings.
The only reason I use all-metal is because I have a parrot, birds have waaaaaay too much of an effective respiratory system - I'm never going to risk offgasing just because the manufacturer is like "yeaaaah... prolly fine". Most people hate on bowden simply because it's the "standard",, the "stock hot end", we all remember our first prints years back, nothing sticked, the bed was warped, no trinamics and so on and so forth. Usually you buy upgrades when you become more experienced. You get a new heated bed, you get a new board, new drivers, a bltouch, a pi4 for octoprint, a 7" capa display for octodash... - without realizing it the worries that you had at first, meaning merely praying for the darn thing to stick and so on, are all linked to the point where the machine was noisy and using bowden. People merely see all-metal as an upgrade, whereas it has it's own flaws when clogging for example - so they're bound to want the upgrade for free, as if it would fix proper layer height and settings when the darn thing isn't even enclosed. We are all made out of statistics, we wouldn't be assholes to each other otherwise :p
They have another problem. The run out filament sensor. The printer stop and display says filament run out but the filament has run out. Hit resume and the printer goes back to printing. What’s up with that?
I never had good long term consistency with any physical based ABL sensors like this and the BLTouch. I wonder how consistent this system will be long term after say 6+ months. Also wanted to add, the strain gauge type setups have been used across various DIY/RepRap projects over the last decade and it's been a mixed bag. Really wish they went with a sensor like the EZABL.
Hi, I want to know if the CR-6 SE Motherboard is 8 bits or 32bits. In the english product page they say "A Quiet Printer: 32-bit silent motherboard, ATmega2560 control chip..." Ok, BUT the ATmega2560 is an 8 bits microcontroller, so they are saying two different things at once.
Isn't the bed leveling design here an issue (bad design)? If you have the hot end used the the touch sensor to level the bed you will need to make absolutely sure the nozzle is clean and does not have any filament ooze or it will effect the leveling causing issues with your print.
I have an older Lulzbot Mini. It is 160 x 160 but i have the upgraded Nozzle which is .25 mm. Got about $1,600 in it. No touch screen must be hooked to a PC to use. So thinking about the new Creality CR-6. What size is it nozzle? I have had some adhesion problems with the Mini. Seems to me I overpaid for the Mini. But it was 3 years ago I think. Should I go for this or wait till the next one? Another problem is bed size. Some of the projects I wanted to print I couldn't with the 160 x 160 bed. Thanks
I couldn't find a date, I now went for the Prusa Mini instead... It currently has a long backorder but it seems more reliable to me, especially with the customer support.
I'm wondering if this machine is the trial run for the Ender 3 v2, they seem very similar. But I'm new to all of this so maybe they are much more different than I think.
A quick word of the build volume. The Ender 3 has always been officially listed as 220 x 220mm even though it is capable of reaching to 235 x 235mm. This printer is listed as 235 x 235mm but there is room for additional travel on X and Y. Once the firmware is open source, the necessary tweaks can be made and the area will be closer to 250 x 250mm.
Is the bed 250*250 to allow that or it will need a new bed once 250*250 is enabled?
Vishal Pai I believe I’ve seen the actual bed size is 245x255 with an actual printing area of 235x235. I don’t remember which video I saw it on but the Wham Bam prez chimed in on a live review and it was measured so (apparently) Wham Bam could start the process to bring their magic to this printer.
@@jamesmiller7278 that was me :-) and yes "physical" dimensions are 245x250 I did not check to see if the kinematics can actually physical reach those dimensions. I will check when I have it on the bench again.
Nerys Thanks Chris for chiming in to clarify who’s stream I was watching. I thought it was yours with that lovely extruded debacle but I didn’t want to mis-identify whose it was until I had time to confirm... but you beat me to it! BTW, what’s the story with the channel name Nerys? Good job diagnosing the extruder on your live stream. AND we can’t forget to give a shout out to Michael for his bang on reviews and consistently great work! (He’s cost me a fortune buying a lot of the kits he’s highlighted... I’ve got an Ender Extended 400 kit sitting here waiting to be installed on one of my Ender 3’s)
The Ender 3 Pro comes with 235 x 235 bed enabled by default.
I like the new benchmark to go along with the Benchy, The Nipply
05:45 ??? Chinese are naughty boys, especially communists
lol, I actually did start using female forms as benchmarks. It's amazing how well they work. Little bits of overhang and detail, but not too much, etc. If nothing else, better than looking at a little boat all the time...
Yep - nicer than a toy dog!
It's absent from "models featured in this video" section :'(
I’ve got to say yours was the video I’ve been waiting for. Anyone can go over the specs but I really enjoy your more technical look into things
Thanks for the post. I already ordered 2 CR6-E's on Kickstarter. This will be my first 3D printer, so I found your commentary invaluable. Thanks again for excellent content.
Great overview. The clarity and thoroughness of your content is very impressive.
Fantastic deep dive Michael. This looks like a very good machine indeed, I especially like the use of the strain gauge for levelling. Of course, the lined hot end is a concern, but like you said, I bet MicroSwiss will come up with a conversion/adaptation. Kudos to Creality for listening and making the improvements.
As always, Michael great job....look forward to the in depth review, at a later date!
The CR-6 is definitely homing at a much slower speed. Thank you for this review though, it goes into much greater detail than anyone else's videos.
Thank you for the detailed look at the CR-6 SE. I backed it on Kickstarter the moment Joel's review came out, but have been waiting for someone to come out with a more detailed look at the unit. Really appreciate you testing the upgradability and the detailed look into the auto bed leveling system, both were high on my list of questions. Many thanks for the time you put into making this video!
Very nice overview of this new printer. The printer has a bunch of nice features. It'll be interesting to see how the printer holds up after some significant use time. The ABL is an interesting system, again it will be interesting to see how reliable it stays over time. Thanks for the great videos Michael.
I think your video was OUTSTANDING; A Supplement to the others if you will. i look forward to your official review!
4 months later and "ask me how I know" still got me good!
Love you teaching tech keep doing what you doing!!!!
Great video! Lots of details uncovered that are hard to find online (due to the Kickstarter strategy). Loved the comparison not only to the much cheaper Ender 3 but more expensive models.
Looking forward to more videos on this printer. I have backed the project on Kickstarter, and it will be my first 3D printer. Looking to learn lots from your future videos on this printer. All the best to you.
Michael, as always, your presentation is great, its insightful, detail oriented and also presents an overall perspective that helps us all understand vastly better than we would without you! Thank you for that! I do have a concern however. You said you tested the thermal runaway of the CR-6 by disconnecting the heater and watching the temperature drop. This would happen regardless of thermal runaway protection or not. You must know this. Take a breath, and please invest the time to clarify this. Keep up the good work! Thanks!
Thanks Michael, an excellent introduction to this new machine.
Seams as a good starter printer.
Love the intent of opensource.
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thanks, your videos are always thorough and to the points 👍🏻
Great video as always I did join this on Kickstarter. Being a new novice to 3d printing any good commentation such as yours is quite helpful thanks
I really liked the question and answer format.
I know there isn't much hype behind this printer anymore, but I thought I should share my experience:
I got 3 from kickstarter and those quickly more than paid for themselves. Fast forward 2 years and now I have 39 of these machines (+14 E3V2s and +3E3's). The CR6 SE is a fantastic printer. The only real upgrade I've done is updating the firmware to the community firmware. They are reliable out of the box. The hotend design does cause clogs sometimes, but once you know how to properly assemble the bowden tube and nozzle its not a big deal. They are easy to work on and the parts are high quality. 3D printer fans are notorious for failing and these are no different- but it is really easy because of the connectors at the hot end assembly.
Overall, the value for your money is practically unbeatable. I am still buying these printers for my print farm- even though it's been over 2 years since they were released. I sincerely believe that this is the best machine Creality has ever produced.
Thank you for this information, I will definitely be getting one myself now.
I bought one 3 days ago for 278 but still haven’t taken it out the box . I am nervous from the reviews I have read about the problems it’s had and some of the RUclips vids . Thinking of getting a anycubic kobra go . I already have a ender pro
I would definitely buy this machine is I didn't buy my Ender 3 10 months ago
Two never hurt
rewop why?......200$ or less for one of the best 3d printer you can buy!
@@petermaerkitz2846 because this has auto levelling, silent board, and belt tensioning! Touch screen doesn't matter too much but does add price, it's a more cost effective printer than an ender for Quality of life etc
@@petermaerkitz2846 Because by the time you add an 32 bit silent board, filament runout, and auto leveling your already like at the same price as this or more from the base ender 3. Then you also have things like the nicer build plate, touch screen, belt tensioning, etc. For the value nothing in the sub 500 dollar range comes close to be honest. I would say it compares closer to a prusa mark 3 which is a 750 dollar printer if you get it as a kit version.
I'm buying this machine if I get drunk enough. CR-10s was my previous purchase early 2018.
Appreciate the overview and totally agree that a larger build volume would have made this thing pretty damn great. I backed on Kickstarter so I got in at $300...for that money I think it's a pretty good deal. If the price was >$400 retail I'd expect the build volume to match the CR-10.
Thanks for your video. I will get my cr-6 tomorrow and the information in this videos made me feel safer with my purchase :) two friends use prusa mk3 but didn’t want to put 1000$ on a machine like that as my first printer. Fingers crossed !
Is it working I just bought one and am nervous because of reviews about kick statyer
@@lugnut082999 i finally decided to use the ender3v2. It works perfectly. First print was perfect after only levelling the bed. Nothing else to do. Also, using the Creality box makes it so much easier. A lot of option in the slicing process. I would suggest using the Prusa slicer to have more options.
Hello your videos are fantastic I do have the CR10S and had it a few years without a problem I then bought a Geeetech A30T over a year ago as I fancied 3 colour print and I had problem after problem with it so I offloaded recently as it was just stuck in a cupboard and now fancy buying this CR-6 SE to go with the CR10S seen a few videos on this printer which helped make me my mind up...
For what its worth VERY OUTSTANDING! answered alot of my questions.. Thank you very much! :)
Thank you very much. The presentation is very organized and informative.
Thanks Michael. A great video covering often asked questions. I think I would stick to a self modified Ender-3 for the price. But as you say that will require getting my hands dirty. The CR-6 SE looks pretty good for someone who wants the features without mucking around. Thanks
Thanks for the video Michael, comprehensive and well presented. 👍🏼
Another great video, awesome stuff to get some very factual answers on this new printer. :-)
Give your Prusa Mini the full bondtech upgrades. It makes them perform as they should have out of the box.
I fully rate the change of heat break and extruder.
That abl and a lot else are actually very innovative. Impressive.
Great review! Probably the more complex direct drive and all metal hotend requirements are the biggest downsides for the CR-6 for me, I'm also not going to say SE, the name just gets too long. I think the printer does a lot of things right and really pushes the standards for 3D printing forward.
what im honestly most impressed with are those tools it comes with. Full size SD card and the painters tool is by fat the best tool to use for removing prints. Ive never used my ender 3s spatula. All the other upgrade are still amazing. I pray that reality makes a larger scale version of this then i am SOLD
I'd like to have seen some testing of the speed claims.
This is a really good printer for people new to 3d printing. Everything important and complicated is taken care of. It's stable/solid build and seems to be an overall pleasant printer. I have an Anycubic i3 mega which is also easy to use but without auto leveling, so this is even simpler to use than that.
6:28 TPU material used and settings please? Maybe include them in the description.
Thanks for this and all your vids. I should be getting my printer tomorrow April 21 2021
I've backed this, it's a huge bang for your buck!
Me too, I've been looking for about 6 months and decided its time to jump in. Can't wait!
1st gen is never a good idea - My CR-10 is first gen for example, and without a BL-touch I was stuck with a very small printing area as the bed is crooked as all hell (over 1mm) - remember that you don't have the possibility to level the bed - as such I wish you a lot of luck and a lot of fun printing, but don't hesitate to use that warranty if you spot a defect, really really don't - they're going to go on PR mode at launch, use it.
May this printer kick ass
@@pixelsafoison It's not 1st gen, this is the 8th generation of their Ender design.
Your CR10 was the 1st Generation of their CR design.
Besides every review I have seen, which have all been on final hardware, have shown it to be a very good printer!
Your closing observations are spot on. I agree that the print bed should be a little larger like 275 x 275. It would be just about right as I find my CR-10 print bed a little too large at times and the Ender 3 print bed a little too small.
Just pre-ordered mine! Kick-start 🤙💯
I'd upgrade to this from my ender 3 just to have those bed clips, touch screen and bed leveling.
You can upgrade an Ender 3 pro with all that for far less cost...
You could buy some metal Ultimaker style clips for a few bucks
@@TheWingnut58 Not really even close. A bl touch costs 50 dollars alone. 25 dollars for the build surface, 25 for the touchscreen. That doesn't include the 32 bit board or silent stepper motor drivers which is another 50. Filament runout and upgraded extruder is another 25. Belt tensioners run 10-15 dollars per axis. The bed design is also much better because it is fastened in multiple points with solid connections not just in the 4 corners you won't ever have an issue with the bed warping from heating and cooling and getting a bow in the middle. It is actually a really smart solution that fixes a lot of the problems with heated beds. Honestly if you tried to upgrade an ender 3 to the same level your talking about spending 300-400 dollars aftermarket easy.
@@MaethorDerien First, it's an 8 Bit board, not 32, at that price....32 bit is an available upgrade.
Second, you're shopping in all the wrong places and buying everything pre-made, All the belt tensioners are available on Thingiverse, as are several filament run out sensor designs and glass bed clamps.
Hell, just buy an Anet ET4x for $160 shipped....it already has a 32 bit board (but not silent drivers) run out sensor, glass bed, touch screen etc....it comes standard with more upgrades that an Ender 3 to start with and is just as well built.
At nearly $500 "early bird", this thing is still a friggin PIG with lipstick.....there are better machines for the money....
@@TheWingnut58 The 32bit is a free option KS reach days ago. Plus even when it goes retail it will have a 32bit, Creality already said that.
KS is at $319 right now so I have no idea why you are claiming that it's close to $500.
This seems like a good buy for someone who doesn't want to lose print area over an ABL when compared to an Ender-3, considering all the added features.
Laughed pretty hard at your Octoprint terminal window suggesting New South Wales as an autocomplete 😂
I wish you make more video about CR-6 SE like to know what the best settings and some troubleshooting
This does look like an upgraded Ender 3 for sure. Like you said in the video, if someone doesn't want to get their hands dirty with upgrading an E3, then it would definitely be worth it. The thing I like about the E3 is that you do need to get your hands dirty to upgrade it, which teaches you essential information about printing especially if you are new like me. It would be nice to have a printer that has a lot of bells and whistles, but the struggle of DIY is a great teacher.
Using a load cell for nozzle tip levelling is a great idea. It gives the exact print surface level, but this only works if there is absolutely no filament at the tip! However, to get the most accurate reading, both nozzle and bed should be at printing temperature, with no filament oozing out the nozzle. Since they aren't using the load cell as an active bed leveller during the print, I'll stick with the BLtouch which is a more practical level sensor.
It should not be necessary to level this printer before every print. Levelling can be done before loading a filament.
@@ThinkersBluff still a bit more work than BL isn't it
@@danlightowler4259 I don't think so. I presently have a BLTouch on my Ender 3 & level prior to every print. If I could just level once and forget it after that, I would be printing sooner every time after that.
Correct. this is why it heats the nozzle to 120' when it does leveling. this is so if there is any filament it can squish out of the way and be a minimal effect on leveling (you should still make sure its clean!!)
this is one of the first machines (I believe seemecnc might have a machine that does this as well) that understands "true zero"
what this means is the printer "actually knows" where the nozzle tip and the bed are. not an adjusted value but true zero. and this is a big deal.
when you set z offset your not really setting an offset. you are literally setting "first layer height" from true 0. this means for example you can change the bed and just click "auto level" and you are done. you can change the nozzle and just click auto level and you are done. you can not do this with any other system because all of those other systems depend on predefined offsets to "get you to" true 0. this one does not. I am going to abuse the hell out of it. I really hope it holds up well because its pretty darned neat!
@@nerys71, I knew that because I watched your video.
Thanks Michael another informative video!
I think this is the new standard in low-cost 3d-printing. As long as their quality control doesn't go to hell as they scale up the volume production, the value for money is unbeatable. Its more expensive than an E3/E3 Pro but you get all of the common upgrade features (they just forgot the Capricorn tubing), PLUS it saves people so much *time* and *fiddling*!! Don't underestimate how little most people want to "tinker" - they want to pull something out of a box and _use_ it. Those of us who like fiddling and DIY'ing are the exception, not the rule. ;-)
The only downside is that this is probably going to dry up sales on the Ender3 Pro and E3 v2.
I think it is very worth the price and plan on getting one!
Hello on the cr6 se hie hi Made the e steps calibration? How i Made the Firmware Update? Thanks
I really wish they'd change the ptfe hotends, its the only thing that i consistently get problems with, on all creality printers
Cracking job. If this was out a year ago I would have got it instead of the Ender 3, which probably cost as much with all the upgrades.
Are you likely to get the Ender 6 to review? Much more interested in corexy now I have had the Ender 3.
Hope to see soon your review for the CR6 Max. I am on the point to consider a large printer (my basic needs are what is supported by this new unit (400x400x400). I saw your other videos of larger printers but the price tag and overall results did not convince me those are the ones I need. This one is "brand new" and seems (despite some shortcomings) to be a good printer with a robust design. I would expect the price to be more affordable soon (600-700) and in the case confirmed it is a good buy, perhaps my choice. Love to see your opinion soon!
Absolutely great job addressing the WHY and HOWs! I very much enjoyed this video (you are well spoken and thorough) as always! Now.. do you hav $379 USD or $700 CAD (exaggeration) lying around doing nothing? - I want it and I have 3 x Ender 3's!!!
$ 511 Cdn shipped. I just backed
i backed it, im really exited for it
Just picked one up for $170 to replace my ender 3v2. Looks to be a steal.
the short answer to both questions is yes.
How rigid is the frame? Yes
Thanks. I will get this
Looks like there is a ESP/WiFi card placeholder on the LCD... at 11:05
Why do you suggest that hot end "fix"? It changes the pivot point of the Bowden tube, making it easier to pull out.
Because it fixes the problem.
@@TeachingTech it's kind of a problem that takes no time to fix after you've done it once. While hot, Unscrew nozzle, push Bowden all the way through, remove plastic, pull Bowden out, screw new nozzle in, back out slightly, push Bowden it, then push Bowden all the way down and tighten nozzle.
With the "fix" I've seen couplers unscrew easier. This means that you have to pay more attention to whether the hot end coupler is still tight after or before printing.
This will make a nice third printer for me. I am very interested in the bed leveling and touch screen, two things I have not added to my Ender3 PRO. I'm confident Creality will sell these, but am a bit ignorant on how kick starter works to throw money at it in order to save $100. Do you simply give them $320 (the current early bird price) and this pays for your printer? Or is the money given separate and you have to pay later for the printer as well? What about Shipping? How are those fees accounted for?
I'm very curious how spare parts will be handled. This would be a worth while project to buy some of these parts and see what can be retro fitted to other printers such as the Enfer 3 assuming the code is open source.
Printing is added on top, check the site
That pays for the printer, you have an extra bit that you add for the shipping. It actually asks when you do the kickstarter where you are shipping to and adds that to the pledge.
It's bad that it can't work with Linear Advance! It's almost like a standard now.
The printing volume is small indeed (for the price). Also a proper full-metal heatbreak should be an option (for the same money). I'm not aiming to print with PLA usually.
I watched Creality strip down the nozzle and noticed that the PTFE tube feeds down a long metal tube between the input coupler and the back of the nozzle. I did not get an answer from Creality, but I asked whether they intend to offer an alternative tube with a filament-sized inner throat, to enable conversion to an all-metal hotend. Maybe Michael can get an answer on that one...
@@ThinkersBluff where did you see that?
Unless you are printing polycarbon or Nylon. You don't need a metal hot end. PLA/PETG/ABS/TPU can ALL be printed reliably and safely with a high quality PTFE tube. (Note the HQ part)
I can print all of these for days on end, can run up to 260 if needed to. You do have to properly assemble your hot end, take it apart, back off the nozzle a tiny bit, unscrew the collar on top, now push the ptfe tube farther down, heat up hot end, tighten tube collar and nozzle. If your tube is square, it will not leak, if it is a capricorn tube, it will not burn, even at 260.
The rest is your slicer settings. All Metal will jam easier, it's not as slippery as a ptfe lined throat.
@@mr.spongylikeaboss4987 A high quality PTFE tube costs like a good Ti-all metal heatbreak :D Guess which one should I choose.
My PTFE liner degraded a lot... caused few bad prints and at the end clogged the hot end. Any stick has two ends...
@@Benutzername0000 ruclips.net/video/uUWktSRnTk4/видео.html, 00:31:50
I would love to get that ABL for my Ender 3.
I think this printer is good for the industry. More people can get into 3D printing with less issues. With an Ender 3.0 Pro and a Creality CR-10 V2 My next printer will be a railcore-ii-300zlt!
8:28 "Ask me how I know." Hah!
Several times in fact. It was when I was testing the soft TPU so it was already hard and then I kept on forgetting to lock the extruder on top of that.
Bruh waste money
If I may ask, what do I do if my glass bed is torn, which one should I get or other alternative?
Love your videos! Just subscribed :)
Thank you for this good video!
Could you share you TPU configuration to save us some test-prints?
When is the full review?
they hit the stretch goal for 32 bit main board if you want it... Why would I not want to upgrade to the 32 bit board over the standard 8 bit?
I guess the only reason not to is that Creality don't currently have any 32bit boards so it is a bit of an unknown.
I am more concerned about how much RAM will be on their board. My Marlin 2.0 firmware.bin presently consumes >260MB, which may mean giving up on something I like if I accept their 8-bit board.
Own it. Love it.
When will you do a review of this printer ?
not sure if i missed it, but i was curious about the out of box dimensional accuracy, my ender 3 pro isn't dimensionally accurate out of the box and i can't seem to figure out why its inaccurate, and the CR-6 SE looks like it has belt tensioners on both the X and Y and the bed ABL it has and filament sensor look like very nice additions
Thanks! Very informative!
@teachingtech please can you assist with calibrating the PID for a Mosquito 450 degree C thermistor.this is for the CR-6 in specific.
I think this sounds like a great first printer if money is not an issue. If on a budget the original Ender 3 still shines.
For someone like me who has an upgraded CR10S is doesn't make sense as a second printer, as it doesn't do much more. I'm glad I went through the upgrade process, I learned a lot and am comfortable taking things apart.
Which brings me to a video suggestion, assuming a user has a good working upgraded Ender 3-ish FDM printer, what would one consider for a second printer? Something that is more accurate? Resin? Bigger volume?
Great video as always, thanks!
Resin
Been using my Ender 3 Pro for Face Shield frame production. I was looking into upgrading it and then heard about the Kickstarter for the 6 SE and decided to get the 6 SE. By the time the 6 SE comes in my poor Ender 3 may be worn out from all the face shield printing.
Same here. 24/7 printing of Prusa face shield parts for 2 months, now. I backed the CR-6 SE as my 2nd printer, because I see it as a step-up from the Ender 3 and better value than adding all those features to my Ender 3.
oh.. i see. you are really into 3D printing - you are printing useless stuff, nice :D
hmm curious about the Ender 5 pro and this new CR-6 SE since both seem to be upgraded and newer models by Creality
Yes price wise they're very similar. I've been thinking of an ender 5 pro as an upgrade to my existing cheap printer and am wondering if my money is better spent on this or should I stick with the ender 5 pro. Given after the campaign the price will jump by $100 it will make this more expensive than the Ender 5 Pro you have to ask if this printer is worth it given it will cost more.
Michael please do a video on setting up PINDA 2 probe in Marlin 2.0 including temperature compensation.
Hi. Thank you for the video. It is normal that the bed is very loud If it moves faster?
Which motore driver is best ? I have bought ender 5 plus should i do any upgrade
hi, great video !!
i decided to buy a new fdm printer now i have an anycubic 4max pro2.0, but i am not satisfied. I would like to buy a creality. can you recommend one that prints really well ?? thank you very much
paolo from rome
I’d like to get a more “in depth” video (or help) on replacing / opening the extruder.
I’ve had issues with it, so I opened it up.. tried to reinstall it, but I can’t manage to get the spring in decent position. Can you help me out???
I wonder how long that extruder will last before something on it cracks.
why should a steel plate crack when the triggering force isnt even enough to pinch the surface? even if its faulty and crushes into the bed, it wont harm anything. the stepper is just not strong enough to do so.
I think he meant the new design extruder, not the hot end mount. Creality extruders have a habit of cracking at the pivot point. That is why so many of us add the metal ‘upgrade’ version. This new design with a straight feed path should stop the filament from eating into the arm, and hopefully the new mechanism will prove more robust.
Great info and well presented
Spot on first-look :) That ABL may not be suited for a "standard" direct drive, but I'd really like to see you try the Flex3drive G5 you already reviewed on the Seckit SK-GO as a possible upgrade on this new machine: I wonder if a lighter (in)direct drive would be a good trade-off or if the peculiar ABL system of this machine is too edgy even for that.
Don't suppose you will he reviewing the CR-10 PRO V2? I'm looking for a higher hills volume printer of about that size but not sure what to get
Edit: just finished the video, I am loving this printer. However with the bed leveling, what if the bed is warped or the frame is bent? If something is wonky how does it deal with that? You can't change the springs like you may be able to on some
I bought this used. First time I was trying it it started fine but it didnt take long before it started clumping up. I am a first time user. Why is this happening? Should I take of the extruder to see if it clean? Is it to close to the bed or not close enough? I ran the auto levelling and that worked just fine. What am I doing wrong. Happy for any replies. And also there is only two choices for filament. How do you put in to use another type of filament ?
So refurb’d ones go for $220 on Comgrow. $20 more than an Ender 3 V2. Seems worth it to me.
I've backed this on Kickstarter and it'll be my 1st printer. It looks a lot more refined than their current printers, so hoping it will give more consistent results out of the box. I'm wondering given that a strain gauge is used to achieve the auto bed levelling if there is any effect on accuracy due to temperature dependence of the strain gauge. I see the display board you show in your unit seems to have an area and pads to solder on a WiFi board. Also interested in how well the belt tensioners work. I'll probably go with the 32-bit board, guessing it'll be more capable but maybe less support initially.
A Lot of you hate against the PTFE lined hotends, I have used them for years, and this is what I've found. PLA/PETG/ABS/TPU all print well.
PTFE hotends can print every filament other than Nylon or PolyCarbonite. The problem you had was cheap PTFE Tube, poorly assembled hotend from factory.
The key is to have ZERO gap, completely flush fit of the PTFE tube in the hotend, AND a properly locked collar to prevent the tube from pulling up.
Step 1: Get Capricorn Tube (Buy from the OEM.. many places sell fakes, including Amazon)
Step 2: Cut PTFE Tube with a proper Tube Cutter (Nothing Else!, not a knife/razor blade/side cutters, ect)
Step 3: Loosen Tube Collar on Hotend, Loosen Nozzle a tiny bit, push PTFE Tube down until it bottoms, heat hotend up to 220-240, now tighten top lock collar, now tighten nozzle.
If you have done ALL of those things, AND used Capricorn Tubing, cut with a tube cutter, YOU will not have leaks, or burned up PTFE tube.
You can print all day at 255 deg with real Capricorn PTFE Tubing, it will not burn. IF you eliminate the potential for gaps in Creality's hotend, it will NOT leak
If you are clogging or jamming after doing the above, it's your slicer settings.
The only reason I use all-metal is because I have a parrot, birds have waaaaaay too much of an effective respiratory system - I'm never going to risk offgasing just because the manufacturer is like "yeaaaah... prolly fine".
Most people hate on bowden simply because it's the "standard",, the "stock hot end", we all remember our first prints years back, nothing sticked, the bed was warped, no trinamics and so on and so forth. Usually you buy upgrades when you become more experienced. You get a new heated bed, you get a new board, new drivers, a bltouch, a pi4 for octoprint, a 7" capa display for octodash... - without realizing it the worries that you had at first, meaning merely praying for the darn thing to stick and so on, are all linked to the point where the machine was noisy and using bowden.
People merely see all-metal as an upgrade, whereas it has it's own flaws when clogging for example - so they're bound to want the upgrade for free, as if it would fix proper layer height and settings when the darn thing isn't even enclosed. We are all made out of statistics, we wouldn't be assholes to each other otherwise :p
They have another problem. The run out filament sensor. The printer stop and display says filament run out but the filament has run out. Hit resume and the printer goes back to printing. What’s up with that?
I never had good long term consistency with any physical based ABL sensors like this and the BLTouch. I wonder how consistent this system will be long term after say 6+ months. Also wanted to add, the strain gauge type setups have been used across various DIY/RepRap projects over the last decade and it's been a mixed bag. Really wish they went with a sensor like the EZABL.
Interesting, the EZABL was always flakey for me, I went back to a BLTouch about 2 years ago and haven't had a problem since.
Hi, I want to know if the CR-6 SE Motherboard is 8 bits or 32bits. In the english product page they say "A Quiet Printer: 32-bit silent motherboard, ATmega2560 control chip..." Ok, BUT the ATmega2560 is an 8 bits microcontroller, so they are saying two different things at once.
Isn't the bed leveling design here an issue (bad design)? If you have the hot end used the the touch sensor to level the bed you will need to make absolutely sure the nozzle is clean and does not have any filament ooze or it will effect the leveling causing issues with your print.
I have an older Lulzbot Mini. It is 160 x 160 but i have the upgraded Nozzle which is .25 mm. Got about $1,600 in it. No touch screen must be hooked to a PC to use. So thinking about the new Creality CR-6. What size is it nozzle? I have had some adhesion problems with the Mini. Seems to me I overpaid for the Mini. But it was 3 years ago I think. Should I go for this or wait till the next one? Another problem is bed size. Some of the projects I wanted to print I couldn't with the 160 x 160 bed. Thanks
Anyone know when this will be available for purchase? I missed the kickstarter
I couldn't find a date, I now went for the Prusa Mini instead... It currently has a long backorder but it seems more reliable to me, especially with the customer support.
I'm wondering if this machine is the trial run for the Ender 3 v2, they seem very similar. But I'm new to all of this so maybe they are much more different than I think.
The FAQ has a comparison between these two printers.