Awesome video buddy! So helpful and insightful 👏. I am on the lookout for when u start the gt40 build on your vert. I myself am planning to go down the rabbit hole as well with a mild gt40 set up on my stock speed density 5 speed 88lx vert . I plan on keeping stock computer, injectors, fuel pump and the stock cam.. plan is to run gt40p heads, upgraded springs, explorer egr gt40 Upper and lower intake, 65mm throttle body and factory air box for the stock look.. would u run 1.6 or 1.7 rockers with the stock cam?? 🤔... really enjoy your channel and vids! Hopefully u update us on the gt40 stuff... take care 🤝 much respect. I'm finding out quickly that the gt40 parts aren't cheap anymore! 😂
hope my response isn't to lengthy for my foxbody build. I run canfield heads 2.02 intake 1.90 exh. $1400 MY intake is an edelbrock performer..$585.00 comp cam extreme energy camshaft 555 int lift 565 lift with 112 lobe center. $389 ford racing 1.6 roller rockers. $250, comp cam harden push rods 3.350 length. BBK 76mm MAF meter, $290 70MM edelbrock throttle body $250, BBK fuel rail $200. , BBK 1,5/8 long tube headers $375. no cat off road H pipe with 2 chamber flowmaster mufflers, Kirban adjustable fuel pressure regulator. $90. 190LPH BBK fuel pump.$ 120 comp cam double roller timing chain ,$100 BBK underdrive pulleys, black magic extreme magic electric fan. EV8 24Lb injectors, felpro gaskets, all ARP bolts through out the block. not scratching the surface on the other mods but these mods will take a stock 302 foxbody from around 225 hp to closer to 330 to 340 hp. this is depending on the TPS setting, timing. I run 15 degrees of timing. the fuel pressure is set to 45 PSI, Other mods are fidanza alluminum flywheel. world class T5 5 speed, B&M short shifter, ford racing alluminum drive shaft. Precision 3.73 gears, Moser 31 spline axles, Rear end girdle. MSD Billet Distributor, MSD Digital 6AL ignition, MSD 8.5 MM plug wires, MSD ignition Coil. adjustable caster camber plates, Strut tower brace,, K member girdle, Mac subframe connectors,,,, rear strut tower brace, Maximum motor sport sway bar upgrade,, Maximum motorsport pan hard bar. South side lift bars, grantelli adjustable upper control arms. grippo springs, KYB shocks,, all wheel disc brakes. soon upgrading to wilwood brakes. fiboglass hood. 130 alternator upgrade.. all autometer gauges, 10,000 rpm nitrous wet plate system. I also bought the twin turbo kit for it ( Not Installed) 8 point roll cage, and lots more, not to mention all that was done to the block itself. but the HCI alone will up the power to more than 100 over stock. this is good enough to go from high 14s low 15s to mid to 13s, unless you do alot more like I did and now its 12s. and the nitrous will put in the 11s. or even 10s,, this builds will embarrass challenger and charger scat pack owners. The beauty of what I love about the mods of my car is that my car only weighs 3100 pounds. these are super light and thats why modifying these cars will make these foxbodies ridicuoulsy scary to drive.
@@KASLCustoms thanks. started like all fox body owners, pulleys, gears, K&N filter and so forth then it grew to no end. I like your channel. keep up the good work
Thx sir - in light of time and filming myself I was trying to hustle through as fast as possible but after taking a closer look myself, I realized the same thing 👍
Great info! This is why I watch. You did alot of legwork for me on this one. Wow what a rabbit hole 😆. But for 4k you will have a reliable motor for years. On a side note I think you and TIP have the best intros on RUclips. Thanks again Gary for another great video!
I’ve been waiting for this build for a while as well. I have a 92 vert I bought in Miami and I have everything for the same set up. But I went with one. Seven rockers and the Anderson b21 cam great content I’ll be doing my build alongside with you. Thanks for the knowledge.
Yup it does add up! When I tell my friends how much it was when I did my 347 for my 91 coupe they look at me like I had two heads! It was about 7.000 ! Thanks for the video
People just look at price of heads cam and intake and completely ignore all the other costs involved. Then you factor in a 347 is getting a fully forged bottom end to boot it easily gets to that. You can do coyote swaps for under 10k if you shop smart so the coyote isn't looking like a bad idea these days but I understand some wanna stick with the sbf that is fine I get it. It's all in what you want out of it. A stock coyote will make more or the same as most 347 builds na (more if you mod it) and a much higher ceiling with boost. So for the money the coyote isn't a bad option at all.
Gr8 video bruh ! I don’t know if anybody mentioned this but as for the throttle body you can use the bigger explorer one you just got to swap over your original linkage for the accelerator cable to work! Plus its still is ford oem .the hardest part for my gt40 swap was or still is lol choosing what cam to roll with .
Thanks buddy! Yes very good point. I thought of a bunch of things after turning off the camera 🤦♂️😂. That said, had I gone any further I probably would have scared everyone off from doing a HCI swap LOL!!!
This is a very comprehensive video Gary! Your attention to detail really shines through in this one, I'm sure you have no issues on any job you do since you are also addressing the supporting systems where many people will reuse almost every part they can and that is not always a wise decision. I think your video is going to be a wake up call for many who are considering doing HCI.
Thank so much buddy I really appreciate that!! Funny enough, I thought about more things since that I forgot to mention as well… ie harmonic balancer 🤦♂️😂 thanks again sir!
My god im so happy my buddy builds race cars and bought a 69 camaro and needed to sell his 88 lx vert HCI . I paid high at 20k CAD like 5 years ago. But the car has literally everything all motor done to it and was turn key, clean paint too. HCI is no joke no more. Buddy had to do a rear lsd 373 rebuild and it cost 2200 when it use to be like 800. Parts are going up like crazy.
As always, a great video. A big fan of your content… my 2 cents is those LMR and Summit prices are in USD, so don’t forget to add 35-40% for exchange 😒🙄… the ‘we live in Canada tax’… lol
I have a GT40p setup on my parts shelf for my 94GT when I get the time, looking forward to doing it when I can. People always rag on the GT40 build since you’ll get much more power from an aftermarket head, but some guys just like the nostalgia build. I also like it because they’re just the best head design for the SBF that came out of the Ford factory, there’s something cool about that. They’re factory quality so you know they’ll work, never know what you get from the aftermarket these days. My build plan is this GT40P heads with Alex’s parts beehive springs Steeda #19 cam .516 lift with 1.7’s Ford Racing 1.7RR’s, pedestal Cobra GT40 intake BBK unequal length shorty headers 24lb injectors 155LPH Walbro in tank pump 70MM bbk throttle body 75MM Pro-M mass air tuned for 24lb injectors BBK fender cold air That’s the major stuff, but there’s a lot more parts you’ll replace when digging into the engine this far that push the price up. Even things like gaskets are $$$. Water pump, new timing chain, replace old hardware like head bolts and upgrading those to ARP stuff. just arp head bolts are over $100 Canadian for example. It always end up being like double what you expected when you started down the path, such is the car hobby, lol.
Ahh buddy you got a jackpot series here my man! This is gonna be big, I’ve been waiting for this one. I’m literally doing the exact same build. Going to look at a set of gt 40 three bars tomorrow. 👍🏻
This is a really comprehensive rundown of the reality of these upgrades. Im 80% of the way through gathering parts for TFS 11r170 top end kit for a 92 vert. Its taken me about 2 years. If you're not made of money, it's a journey to do it the right way, but fun at the same time. $4k sounds like a lot of money, and it is, but that's not terrible in contrast to buying a new vehicle. I really enjoy this channel and find the information useful. Looking forward to seeing the GT40 build. Nice work!
I just went through this. AFR Enforcer heads, TFS -1 cam, sent Cobra lower to B Moss for porting. Work done by local shop. Initial plan was engine in job- $1000 labor and about $2000 hci related parts. This quickly escalated to an engine out job- bad motor mounts discovered and leaky rear seal. Then a bad harmonic balancer was found, then there was ptv clearance issues, then my valve covers had clearance issues, then maybe my fuel pump and 24lb injectors may be limiting, and while we’re here we might as well x,y, z. In the end it was $4400 in parts and $2200 labor and I’m glad it happened that way. I have a car that I’m super happy with, the shop was great to deal with. From a ROI standpoint, it was a horrible decision.
So....I have a set of heads, upper & lower intake off of a 97 Explorer that's been sitting in my garage for 2 years. I am NOT a mechanic.....I just love these cars! Do you think I'd be getting in over my head ($$$) by taking it to a mechanic to do this HCI? Or put another way, would I be better off just getting a crate motor? Blueprint is wanting about $8k for the entire engine. I get that I'd be paying someone to swap it out, but I'm thinking that could be covered (or a chunk of it) by selling my GT40 3-bar stuff and my entire current engine. Thoughts Gary? Or anyone?
Hey buddy! Thats a tough one. I'm going to confuse you with one more option - why don't you venture down the road of taking on a HCI swap yourself? I know you said you're "no mechanic" but I can promise you, if you take this type of project on and see it through, you'll have a whole new appreciate for the hobby, the community, and your car! Trust me, I know how daunting the task can seem but I promise you, you can do it!!! We're all here to help you do it too buddy!
@@KASLCustoms - that is an interesting idea....and I have thought about it! One thing is I'm getting a bit older at 58 and I don't want the car all torn apart forever! But I really would love to do that!
Very cool, it just goes to show how much this stuff just adds up so quick, especially when doing things to last and to have enjoyment. Just like going through the suspension items as well,that stuff can add up quickly too.
Good video! Did you get 3bar or 4bar heads? Gt40p heads require a different header. Gt40 heads are the same as mustang. Also maybe bigger mass air meter or have one recalibrated for injectors you are using?
I had the same question on the MAF. When you go to bigger injectors, don't you have to compensate for the increased fuel delivery on the air measurement side so you are not running rich? Unless you have a terminator or some other programmable engine management system where you can enter the new injector size your stock engine management still thinks you have 19# injectors.
Yes you do and I am sorry if my video misled you. You are 100% correct in your thinking and I should have mentioned a new mass air meter calibrated for larger injectors.
Hey buddy, thanks for the video. Very informative and realistic. I'm currently going thru the same set up on my 90 vert. I got lucky with some of the parts but it's still adds up. I went with a Trickflow Stage 1 cam, very popular for this set up. Also, I had to measure for piston clearance and my pushrod length needed was .0635, get that tool it's only $20. Can't wait to get her fired up. Also, I love your desk set up in your garage, I may steal that idea 😆.
Great content! Perfect timing to make me second guess my life choices. I just finished prepping GT40P heads for a build. Bought a wrecked Explorer from Copart, harvested what I wanted and sold parts until I got my money back out of it. Scrapped the rest and made a few dollars. I think I will be into the heads, cam, intake for about $1k.
My 93 5.0 was leaking antifreeze at the timing chain cover. Preventive maintenance was included in my fixing that. AFR heads, 70mm throttle body, ARP head bolts and 1.7 cobra rocker arms were all I classified as new performance parts. The Explorer manifold was $25, plus my labor for removal. I don't classify gaskets etc as performance cost. I had previously long tube header, new exhaust, T-race oil pan, so the head-leak fix wasn't as big a hit. Yes, in total, it is not cheap. What I have, now, in the car I could have bought a newer one with more power, what is the fun of that?
Thoughts: Upgraded fuel pump is a must-have; stock 5.0L HO pumps are only 88 LPH and won't support even GT40 power levels (Ford upgraded to 110 LPH on factory GT40 cars. But don't go bigger than 190 LPH with stock fuel lines). Also consider a new timing chain set as a must-have on any older/high mileage engine; the new cam/stiff springs will trash an old set quickly. The $200 rockers you looked at are only "roller tip," not "full roller;" they lack the roller trunnion bearing, hence the $200 cost delta. ~5500 rpm GT40 motor could be okay with those single rollers; higher rpm is better served with full rollers. Among the ~$400 class roller rockers, Harland Sharp or Scorpion offer superior quality. The imported, no-name cheapies are a false economy and a disaster waiting to happen. As others mentioned, a larger mass air meter will be mandatory. To really get the most pleasure, satisfaction, and performance (in order of importance IMHO), you really need to get a custom tune to make it run smooth and sweet after these numerous modifications. Your thought process is a GREAT example of thinking through any upgrade plans before you start. Well thought-out and well presented.
This video and thread has been great. I need to put a new motor in my SN95. I was thinking about doing upgrades on it. This whole thread has made me think I'd be better off just going stock. Or better yet just finding a junkyard motor with warranty and dropping it in. I can see this becoming a $8K project.
Thanks for putting this out. I've been wanting to order a trickflow top end kit but it's been out of stock each time I look. Might consider piecing something together instead
@@KASLCustoms it’s time you add so boost to your life 😁. Of course you can always add the the GT40 set up now and it just takes less boost in the future to really wake it up. Double the fun and double the content 😎.
Good video. Reminds me of the old days cooking up a plan. I would go 30lb injectors for the same money. Will need a mass air calibrated to match of course. Can't wait to follow this build!
Sorry.... what if I buy a 93 stock mustang with a stock motor....say a barn find for discussion. I wanna tear into the motor for the swap what are the tell tale signs NOT to do it?
Hey great video. It’s almost hard to justify the cost for the performance but I still did it. To a few cars haha. Most recent car (an electric red 93 hatch I’m restoring) had a nice top end kit on it installed by a reputable speed shop in Calgary when purchased it. I paid a bit of a premium for it but nowhere near what that work would cost today. Haha this actually sounds pretty cheap if you’re coming from the coyote game. They can make big hp but everything is super expensive. Arp head studs alone on my 13 build were $700 🤦♂️
I say yes, because the secret is out that the 1996 - 2001 V8 ford explorers have a lot of goodies on them, even the GM boys are hip too this also and probably goto their local pick-n-pull and then flip them on eBay
Hi Gary. You might want to look at pedestal mount rockers. Your GT40 heads came that way. You will have to drill and tap your heads to install rocker studs. I think Scorpion makes 1.6 pedestal mount roller rockers. So much less hassle to install. I've been so looking forward to this build. Also, the Ford high performance roller lifters kinda aren't worth the extra fifty bucks. All they do is rev a little higher, 2 or 3 hundred rpm. Your mom will never need it. I'm just relating my experience with my build. Thanks for a great video. Bill.
Prices are crazy but depending on what you want to do you have to pay to play. That GT40 set up is a great little street set up and I love the nostalgia behind it but it isn't cheap to even go that route these days. I just ordered a set of AFR 185's (72cc) for my 393 and a set of Cometic gaskets as well but I've been saving for a while, was exciting to finally order them but my bank account is pretty depressing now, lol. Now to pick out of new cam....more money, lol.
Great video! Always love your content! :) This is a general comment from my perspective for others that haven't been around the Fox 5.0 game for long....it's a largely questionable investment to do anything with GT-40 iron heads anymore... There is no question that a set of basic aluminum heads ranging from $1,300-$1,750 (AFR enforcers, TFS 170s, etc.), is the biggest bang for the buck and smartest move. I see people paying several hundred dollars for clapped out GT-40 iron heads that need to be completely rebuilt and even with porting, won't make anywhere near the power of a nice aluminum head for the same money. The springs on GT-40 heads are horrible for anything other than a stock cam. There are many advantages to buying a new set of aluminum heads over putting time and money into iron heads. I hear people talk about nostalgia builds, but is lackluster performance from an engine part/head that you can barely see worth it? Sure, run a COBRA or GT-40 tubular intake because you can actually see it, but skip the paper weight GT-40s unless you like spending a lot of money and investing time for performance achieved 25 years ago. Unless you get the heads for literally next to nothing and don't spend more than $700-$800 getting them into proper shape, you are doing yourself a disservice. Additionally, when you buy a set of aftermarket heads (and other parts for that matter) you are supporting the aftermarket manufacturers that make a great product - these businesses also bring us other parts that we need for these cars and our hobby. I've had no less than 10 sets of aftermarket heads through my hands over the years that I've been involved in this hobby and not one set has been problematic, yes, I've tested spring rates, checked valve seal, etc.
You can save alot of $ by purchasing 1.7 pedestal mount (factory is pedestal) rockers and running the stock cam..reusing the lifters, pushrod, and camshaft is huge savings in relation to the small HP gains and degradation in driveability. You can also save by skipping the injectors, which will require a new and expensive MAF...You didn't mention headers but that's something to add..
Yea you're gonna be saving money but sacrificing a decent bit of power. If you're trying to get anywhere near 300 to the wheels stock cam ain't the way to go and you're also gonna need a larger maf anyways at that point same with injectors. I mean if you just wanna pick up some power from stock that is fine but doing what you suggested will sacrifice a decent bit of performance
@@midnight347 I made 292 rwhp in my '86 GT. with almost that exact setup... I purchased L303 GT40 heads way back when....FRPP used to sell them, they are just F3ZE Cobra heads with better parts than the production heads.... You got SS valves, and the A50 Valvetrain kit for under $400. for the pair....The only work I had done.. a valve job...and flow benched...just for my own curiosity.. So it was basically a '93 Cobra engine with the better stock '86 SD Cam, 19 lb., Cobra 1.7 rockers, '93 Cobra Intake and 70mm TB. This was all using the stock speed density VM1 ECM tune... It did have MAC under drive pulleys, equal-lenth headers, Off road H, and every muffler combo possible lol. T-5 Motorsport clutch. I had several Camshafts to pick from B303 and the baby Crower...but seeing how several of my buddies gained 2 to 3 rwhp and lumpy sound....at best... because one friend with a Capri slowed at the track after switching cams twice!! Anyway I didn't want the headache or extra expense of MAF when my power adder had no effect on tuning...artificial atmosphere by my NOS Dry kit, plus my NOS Bigshot Plate kit (never ran the wet kit) both of which were VERY close as delivered.
So. Is it worth it? Whats your view on all of that. I appreciate the breakdown, i want to know like if you think personally that this is the route to go down. Love the video! Thanks a bunch
Here's a story the cheer you up.. Lol... I bought a brand new set of L303 GT40 3 bar heads in IDK...2003-ish from FRPP.... Sold through their catalogues, they came better equipped than stock ones, with Stainless Valves, and the A50 Spring package... A brand new set of GT40 iron heads back then....$400.... for the pair!! I also purchased 1.7 Cobra rockers for $170. and a '93 Cobra intake for $280. all at once... For around $850. I had all brand new parts!! People are selling high mileage heads at crazy prices nowadays, above $800....you could also easily spend that at the machine shop rebuilding everything on both heads.... If I found cheap ones to do again...all I'd do is replace the springs and make sure they were flat.
There’s no one size fits all pushrod for a specific head. The pushrod length will be dependent on more factors than that. Cam lift, rocker ratio and design ect. You just always have to measure and select the correct length after test fitting.
Not cheap. This is why I haven't pulled my motor yet. Even just detailing the motor and doing a cam swap it pricey. Already GT40 heads, explorer intake and a 30lb injector set up.
Wow you overpaid for those Gt40 parts. Unless you got 3 bar heads which for the price im assuming you did. I sell restored explorer intakes for 250 and 150 for junkyard condition. And 4 bar heads for 200, 3 bar heads for 300.
@@KASLCustoms Agreed, I'm in the Edmonton area and can attest to that. Good luck getting an explorer intake around here for less than $300 even in junkyard condition, there just aren't as many of them around here as there are South of the border. There was a V8 explorer that showed up in the wrecking yard a few months ago, I got there a few days after it hit the yard and the heads and intake were already gone. True enough you can find them for 150 to 250 on ebay but by the time you pay for exchange, taxes and shipping you are at the same dollar value or more.
@@KASLCustoms Thats a shame. Theirs two sets in a yard about 30 min from me now i havent had a chance to go get yet. Usually pay 120 for heads and intake at the yards. Getting far and few between but still find them regularly in PA.
Great video!
Much respect for those Excel skills.👌🏻
Hahahaha thx bud 👊
good stuff.... good channel.!!!! pony power.!!
Thank you!
Great work…. Thank as you give me hope!! I am doing the same …
Thank you!!!
great video. im in the market to get an 87-93(hopefully a 90-93) in about a year or so and i have already learned a lot from you're videos.
Right on! You’re welcome 👍
I just pulled the complete engine out of a 96 explorer and I’m pulling the 8.8 out of it also.
Awesome video buddy! So helpful and insightful 👏. I am on the lookout for when u start the gt40 build on your vert. I myself am planning to go down the rabbit hole as well with a mild gt40 set up on my stock speed density 5 speed 88lx vert . I plan on keeping stock computer, injectors, fuel pump and the stock cam.. plan is to run gt40p heads, upgraded springs, explorer egr gt40 Upper and lower intake, 65mm throttle body and factory air box for the stock look.. would u run 1.6 or 1.7 rockers with the stock cam?? 🤔... really enjoy your channel and vids! Hopefully u update us on the gt40 stuff... take care 🤝 much respect. I'm finding out quickly that the gt40 parts aren't cheap anymore! 😂
Thanks buddy! I will be getting back to this project soon as time permits. Thanks for the kind words!
Always great content 👌🏽
Thx sir!
Nice 👍🏾 thanks for the info
Anytime my friend!
Soild video 🤜🤛
Thx sir!
Awesome video appreciate it!!👊🏻
You bet!!! 👊
Great Video!!! The cost breakdown was awesome!!! Thanks!!!
Thx sir!
I was going to do a simple h.c.i 😂 I ended up rebuilding engine because cam bearings came out so yes I've got around 20k total in that 89 headache
LOL!!!
Mass air meter to match your 24lbs injectors too.
yup
I have a question that has nothing to do with the video, does a Bluetooth adapter work on a 1993 mustang?
I am doing my 5.0 build with keeping it in the explorer its a 99 I wanna cam and supercharge it
Very cool!
@KASL Customs thank you so much I am inspired by your videos you make
Thank you. I really appreciate that 👍
hope my response isn't to lengthy for my foxbody build. I run canfield heads 2.02 intake 1.90 exh. $1400 MY intake is an edelbrock performer..$585.00 comp cam extreme energy camshaft 555 int lift 565 lift with 112 lobe center. $389 ford racing 1.6 roller rockers. $250, comp cam harden push rods 3.350 length. BBK 76mm MAF meter, $290 70MM edelbrock throttle body $250, BBK fuel rail $200. , BBK 1,5/8 long tube headers $375. no cat off road H pipe with 2 chamber flowmaster mufflers, Kirban adjustable fuel pressure regulator. $90. 190LPH BBK fuel pump.$ 120 comp cam double roller timing chain ,$100 BBK underdrive pulleys, black magic extreme magic electric fan. EV8 24Lb injectors, felpro gaskets, all ARP bolts through out the block. not scratching the surface on the other mods but these mods will take a stock 302 foxbody from around 225 hp to closer to 330 to 340 hp. this is depending on the TPS setting, timing. I run 15 degrees of timing. the fuel pressure is set to 45 PSI,
Other mods are fidanza alluminum flywheel. world class T5 5 speed, B&M short shifter, ford racing alluminum drive shaft. Precision 3.73 gears, Moser 31 spline axles, Rear end girdle. MSD Billet Distributor, MSD Digital 6AL ignition, MSD 8.5 MM plug wires, MSD ignition Coil. adjustable caster camber plates, Strut tower brace,, K member girdle, Mac subframe connectors,,,, rear strut tower brace, Maximum motor sport sway bar upgrade,, Maximum motorsport pan hard bar. South side lift bars, grantelli adjustable upper control arms. grippo springs, KYB shocks,, all wheel disc brakes. soon upgrading to wilwood brakes. fiboglass hood. 130 alternator upgrade.. all autometer gauges, 10,000 rpm nitrous wet plate system. I also bought the twin turbo kit for it ( Not Installed) 8 point roll cage, and lots more, not to mention all that was done to the block itself.
but the HCI alone will up the power to more than 100 over stock. this is good enough to go from high 14s low 15s to mid to 13s, unless you do alot more like I did and now its 12s. and the nitrous will put in the 11s. or even 10s,, this builds will embarrass challenger and charger scat pack owners. The beauty of what I love about the mods of my car is that my car only weighs 3100 pounds. these are super light and thats why modifying these cars will make these foxbodies ridicuoulsy scary to drive.
Wow sounds like an awesome build 💪
@@KASLCustoms thanks. started like all fox body owners, pulleys, gears, K&N filter and so forth then it grew to no end. I like your channel. keep up the good work
We all did! Thx buddy! Will do
The performance lifters says they offer higher revs than oem!!! Thats the difference in the two!!
Thx sir - in light of time and filming myself I was trying to hustle through as fast as possible but after taking a closer look myself, I realized the same thing 👍
don't forget to add labor costs
Lol - that’s scary 😂🤙
Great info! This is why I watch. You did alot of legwork for me on this one. Wow what a rabbit hole 😆. But for 4k you will have a reliable motor for years. On a side note I think you and TIP have the best intros on RUclips. Thanks again Gary for another great video!
Hahaha thanks so much buddy! I really appreciate that 🙏🙏🙏. Thx for reaching out 🫡
I’ve been waiting for this build for a while as well. I have a 92 vert I bought in Miami and I have everything for the same set up. But I went with one. Seven rockers and the Anderson b21 cam great content I’ll be doing my build alongside with you. Thanks for the knowledge.
Right on thanks buddy!
Yup it does add up! When I tell my friends how much it was when I did my 347 for my 91 coupe they look at me like I had two heads! It was about 7.000 ! Thanks for the video
So true buddy! Thank you 🙏
People just look at price of heads cam and intake and completely ignore all the other costs involved. Then you factor in a 347 is getting a fully forged bottom end to boot it easily gets to that. You can do coyote swaps for under 10k if you shop smart so the coyote isn't looking like a bad idea these days but I understand some wanna stick with the sbf that is fine I get it. It's all in what you want out of it. A stock coyote will make more or the same as most 347 builds na (more if you mod it) and a much higher ceiling with boost. So for the money the coyote isn't a bad option at all.
Gr8 video bruh ! I don’t know if anybody mentioned this but as for the throttle body you can use the bigger explorer one you just got to swap over your original linkage for the accelerator cable to work! Plus its still is ford oem .the hardest part for my gt40 swap was or still is lol choosing what cam to roll with .
Well said buddy and thanks for sharing that with us!
You can pretty much geta 395 hp 302 for 4gs.
Please send the link
Where’s the OIL PUMP?
I didn’t price it out but it definitely should be in there!
@@KASLCustoms no doubt. Oil helps. I’m getting my 66 out finally.
A lot of money to maybe make a little over 300 wheel if you're lucky
#24lb mass air meter?
Good call 😉
Brother! This is a very good, comprehensive and well thought out video! Definitely one to keep!💯👊🏾
Foxbody Mustangs are NOT a cheap hobby! 😅
Thx pal! Yes it’s so true 👊
Don't forget if you go larger injectors you must get a matching calibrated MAF.
Good info Gary.
Thanks buddy! Yes very good point. I thought of a bunch of things after turning off the camera 🤦♂️😂. That said, had I gone any further I probably would have scared everyone off from doing a HCI swap LOL!!!
@@KASLCustoms then we would all drive plain boring cars lol
😂😂😂 True 👊👊👊
This is a very comprehensive video Gary! Your attention to detail really shines through in this one, I'm sure you have no issues on any job you do since you are also addressing the supporting systems where many people will reuse almost every part they can and that is not always a wise decision. I think your video is going to be a wake up call for many who are considering doing HCI.
Thank so much buddy I really appreciate that!! Funny enough, I thought about more things since that I forgot to mention as well… ie harmonic balancer 🤦♂️😂 thanks again sir!
My god im so happy my buddy builds race cars and bought a 69 camaro and needed to sell his 88 lx vert HCI . I paid high at 20k CAD like 5 years ago. But the car has literally everything all motor done to it and was turn key, clean paint too. HCI is no joke no more. Buddy had to do a rear lsd 373 rebuild and it cost 2200 when it use to be like 800. Parts are going up like crazy.
Yup agreed!
As always, a great video. A big fan of your content… my 2 cents is those LMR and Summit prices are in USD, so don’t forget to add 35-40% for exchange 😒🙄… the ‘we live in Canada tax’… lol
Thanks buddy! Lol don’t remind me!!! Plus shipping/duty & taxes 🤢
I have a GT40p setup on my parts shelf for my 94GT when I get the time, looking forward to doing it when I can. People always rag on the GT40 build since you’ll get much more power from an aftermarket head, but some guys just like the nostalgia build. I also like it because they’re just the best head design for the SBF that came out of the Ford factory, there’s something cool about that. They’re factory quality so you know they’ll work, never know what you get from the aftermarket these days.
My build plan is this
GT40P heads with Alex’s parts beehive springs
Steeda #19 cam .516 lift with 1.7’s
Ford Racing 1.7RR’s, pedestal
Cobra GT40 intake
BBK unequal length shorty headers
24lb injectors
155LPH Walbro in tank pump
70MM bbk throttle body
75MM Pro-M mass air tuned for 24lb injectors
BBK fender cold air
That’s the major stuff, but there’s a lot more parts you’ll replace when digging into the engine this far that push the price up. Even things like gaskets are $$$. Water pump, new timing chain, replace old hardware like head bolts and upgrading those to ARP stuff. just arp head bolts are over $100 Canadian for example. It always end up being like double what you expected when you started down the path, such is the car hobby, lol.
Thanks for sharing my friend! I agree 💯 That sounds like a great program you have planned out 👍
Ahh buddy you got a jackpot series here my man! This is gonna be big, I’ve been waiting for this one. I’m literally doing the exact same build. Going to look at a set of gt 40 three bars tomorrow. 👍🏻
Right on pal! I’m excited for ya!!
This is a really comprehensive rundown of the reality of these upgrades. Im 80% of the way through gathering parts for TFS 11r170 top end kit for a 92 vert. Its taken me about 2 years. If you're not made of money, it's a journey to do it the right way, but fun at the same time. $4k sounds like a lot of money, and it is, but that's not terrible in contrast to buying a new vehicle. I really enjoy this channel and find the information useful. Looking forward to seeing the GT40 build. Nice work!
Well said my friend! Thank you very much
I just went through this. AFR Enforcer heads, TFS -1 cam, sent Cobra lower to B Moss for porting. Work done by local shop. Initial plan was engine in job- $1000 labor and about $2000 hci related parts. This quickly escalated to an engine out job- bad motor mounts discovered and leaky rear seal. Then a bad harmonic balancer was found, then there was ptv clearance issues, then my valve covers had clearance issues, then maybe my fuel pump and 24lb injectors may be limiting, and while we’re here we might as well x,y, z.
In the end it was $4400 in parts and $2200 labor and I’m glad it happened that way. I have a car that I’m super happy with, the shop was great to deal with.
From a ROI standpoint, it was a horrible decision.
Hahahaha thx for sharing buddy. Yeah, it’s tough but like you said, you got what you wanted in the end 👍
So....I have a set of heads, upper & lower intake off of a 97 Explorer that's been sitting in my garage for 2 years. I am NOT a mechanic.....I just love these cars! Do you think I'd be getting in over my head ($$$) by taking it to a mechanic to do this HCI? Or put another way, would I be better off just getting a crate motor? Blueprint is wanting about $8k for the entire engine. I get that I'd be paying someone to swap it out, but I'm thinking that could be covered (or a chunk of it) by selling my GT40 3-bar stuff and my entire current engine. Thoughts Gary? Or anyone?
Hey buddy! Thats a tough one. I'm going to confuse you with one more option - why don't you venture down the road of taking on a HCI swap yourself? I know you said you're "no mechanic" but I can promise you, if you take this type of project on and see it through, you'll have a whole new appreciate for the hobby, the community, and your car! Trust me, I know how daunting the task can seem but I promise you, you can do it!!! We're all here to help you do it too buddy!
@@KASLCustoms - that is an interesting idea....and I have thought about it! One thing is I'm getting a bit older at 58 and I don't want the car all torn apart forever! But I really would love to do that!
58 is the new 38!!! 😂👊. I think you should do it my friend. Set a goal and make it happen 💪
Very cool, it just goes to show how much this stuff just adds up so quick, especially when doing things to last
and to have enjoyment. Just like going through the suspension items as well,that stuff can add up quickly too.
Yep so true!
Good video!
Did you get 3bar or 4bar heads? Gt40p heads require a different header. Gt40 heads are the same as mustang.
Also maybe bigger mass air meter or have one recalibrated for injectors you are using?
I got the 3 bar GT40’s
Nice! Please be sure to let us know dyno results if you dyno it!!
I definitely will 👍
I had the same question on the MAF. When you go to bigger injectors, don't you have to compensate for the increased fuel delivery on the air measurement side so you are not running rich? Unless you have a terminator or some other programmable engine management system where you can enter the new injector size your stock engine management still thinks you have 19# injectors.
Yes you do and I am sorry if my video misled you. You are 100% correct in your thinking and I should have mentioned a new mass air meter calibrated for larger injectors.
Hey buddy, thanks for the video. Very informative and realistic. I'm currently going thru the same set up on my 90 vert. I got lucky with some of the parts but it's still adds up. I went with a Trickflow Stage 1 cam, very popular for this set up. Also, I had to measure for piston clearance and my pushrod length needed was .0635, get that tool it's only $20. Can't wait to get her fired up. Also, I love your desk set up in your garage, I may steal that idea 😆.
Yessir anytime!! Thanks for sharing your info too, and yes, steal away 😉👊
Great content! Perfect timing to make me second guess my life choices. I just finished prepping GT40P heads for a build. Bought a wrecked Explorer from Copart, harvested what I wanted and sold parts until I got my money back out of it. Scrapped the rest and made a few dollars. I think I will be into the heads, cam, intake for about $1k.
Thx buddy! 👊👊👊
My 93 5.0 was leaking antifreeze at the timing chain cover. Preventive maintenance was included in my fixing that. AFR heads, 70mm throttle body, ARP head bolts and 1.7 cobra rocker arms were all I classified as new performance parts. The Explorer manifold was $25, plus my labor for removal. I don't classify gaskets etc as performance cost. I had previously long tube header, new exhaust, T-race oil pan, so the head-leak fix wasn't as big a hit. Yes, in total, it is not cheap. What I have, now, in the car I could have bought a newer one with more power, what is the fun of that?
😂👊👊
Thoughts: Upgraded fuel pump is a must-have; stock 5.0L HO pumps are only 88 LPH and won't support even GT40 power levels (Ford upgraded to 110 LPH on factory GT40 cars. But don't go bigger than 190 LPH with stock fuel lines). Also consider a new timing chain set as a must-have on any older/high mileage engine; the new cam/stiff springs will trash an old set quickly. The $200 rockers you looked at are only "roller tip," not "full roller;" they lack the roller trunnion bearing, hence the $200 cost delta. ~5500 rpm GT40 motor could be okay with those single rollers; higher rpm is better served with full rollers. Among the ~$400 class roller rockers, Harland Sharp or Scorpion offer superior quality. The imported, no-name cheapies are a false economy and a disaster waiting to happen. As others mentioned, a larger mass air meter will be mandatory. To really get the most pleasure, satisfaction, and performance (in order of importance IMHO), you really need to get a custom tune to make it run smooth and sweet after these numerous modifications. Your thought process is a GREAT example of thinking through any upgrade plans before you start. Well thought-out and well presented.
Thank you
This video and thread has been great. I need to put a new motor in my SN95. I was thinking about doing upgrades on it. This whole thread has made me think I'd be better off just going stock. Or better yet just finding a junkyard motor with warranty and dropping it in. I can see this becoming a $8K project.
Thanks for putting this out. I've been wanting to order a trickflow top end kit but it's been out of stock each time I look. Might consider piecing something together instead
No problem 👍
Almost into Vortech territory 😎 Or definitely an On3 kit? Fun ain’t cheap for sure!!
Hahahahaha I’m taking baby steps 😉😂
@@KASLCustoms it’s time you add so boost to your life 😁. Of course you can always add the the GT40 set up now and it just takes less boost in the future to really wake it up. Double the fun and double the content 😎.
Hahahaha you bring up very valid points. Are you willing to take a roommate on in your garage apartment 😉😂🍻
@@KASLCustoms come join me in the dog house 😂😂😂 I got plenty of junk you can help wrench on now.
🤣🤣👊👊🍻🍻
Good video. Reminds me of the old days cooking up a plan. I would go 30lb injectors for the same money. Will need a mass air calibrated to match of course. Can't wait to follow this build!
Thx buddy! Yeah good point 👍
How do you know the stock block on your new but 30+ year old 302 block will handle all the swaps? Is there anything to look for ?
Sorry bud I’m not sure I understand the question?
Sorry.... what if I buy a 93 stock mustang with a stock motor....say a barn find for discussion. I wanna tear into the motor for the swap what are the tell tale signs NOT to do it?
Besides an obvious crack in the block.
I don’t think there are any. You won’t know what you’re dealing with until you get into it
What about thunderbird 93 5.0
Hey great video. It’s almost hard to justify the cost for the performance but I still did it. To a few cars haha. Most recent car (an electric red 93 hatch I’m restoring) had a nice top end kit on it installed by a reputable speed shop in Calgary when purchased it. I paid a bit of a premium for it but nowhere near what that work would cost today.
Haha this actually sounds pretty cheap if you’re coming from the coyote game. They can make big hp but everything is super expensive. Arp head studs alone on my 13 build were $700 🤦♂️
Yes good points 👍
ARP the world 👌🏻
Rock Auto is a good place to look for gaskets, plugs etc...
Hahahaha! Thx Kev 👍
I say yes, because the secret is out that the 1996 - 2001 V8 ford explorers have a lot of goodies on them, even the GM boys are hip too this also and probably goto their local pick-n-pull and then flip them on eBay
👍
Hi Gary. You might want to look at pedestal mount rockers. Your GT40 heads came that way. You will have to drill and tap your heads to install rocker studs. I think Scorpion makes 1.6 pedestal mount roller rockers. So much less hassle to install. I've been so looking forward to this build. Also, the Ford high performance roller lifters kinda aren't worth the extra fifty bucks. All they do is rev a little higher, 2 or 3 hundred rpm. Your mom will never need it. I'm just relating my experience with my build. Thanks for a great video. Bill.
Thanks Bill!
Prices are crazy but depending on what you want to do you have to pay to play. That GT40 set up is a great little street set up and I love the nostalgia behind it but it isn't cheap to even go that route these days. I just ordered a set of AFR 185's (72cc) for my 393 and a set of Cometic gaskets as well but I've been saving for a while, was exciting to finally order them but my bank account is pretty depressing now, lol. Now to pick out of new cam....more money, lol.
Hahahaha very true!
With a mid range type of cam that thing will make some power and torque with those 185s.
Looking at a Comps Cam blower cam, .533 int./.544 ex, .114 sep.. I will be adding nitrous at some point so want a little more separation.
Great video! Always love your content! :)
This is a general comment from my perspective for others that haven't been around the Fox 5.0 game for long....it's a largely questionable investment to do anything with GT-40 iron heads anymore... There is no question that a set of basic aluminum heads ranging from $1,300-$1,750 (AFR enforcers, TFS 170s, etc.), is the biggest bang for the buck and smartest move. I see people paying several hundred dollars for clapped out GT-40 iron heads that need to be completely rebuilt and even with porting, won't make anywhere near the power of a nice aluminum head for the same money. The springs on GT-40 heads are horrible for anything other than a stock cam. There are many advantages to buying a new set of aluminum heads over putting time and money into iron heads. I hear people talk about nostalgia builds, but is lackluster performance from an engine part/head that you can barely see worth it? Sure, run a COBRA or GT-40 tubular intake because you can actually see it, but skip the paper weight GT-40s unless you like spending a lot of money and investing time for performance achieved 25 years ago. Unless you get the heads for literally next to nothing and don't spend more than $700-$800 getting them into proper shape, you are doing yourself a disservice.
Additionally, when you buy a set of aftermarket heads (and other parts for that matter) you are supporting the aftermarket manufacturers that make a great product - these businesses also bring us other parts that we need for these cars and our hobby. I've had no less than 10 sets of aftermarket heads through my hands over the years that I've been involved in this hobby and not one set has been problematic, yes, I've tested spring rates, checked valve seal, etc.
Thanks buddy! And very good perspective as well. Thanks so much for sharing 👍
You can save alot of $ by purchasing 1.7 pedestal mount (factory is pedestal) rockers and running the stock cam..reusing the lifters, pushrod, and camshaft is huge savings in relation to the small HP gains and degradation in driveability. You can also save by skipping the injectors, which will require a new and expensive MAF...You didn't mention headers but that's something to add..
Yea you're gonna be saving money but sacrificing a decent bit of power. If you're trying to get anywhere near 300 to the wheels stock cam ain't the way to go and you're also gonna need a larger maf anyways at that point same with injectors. I mean if you just wanna pick up some power from stock that is fine but doing what you suggested will sacrifice a decent bit of performance
@@midnight347 I made 292 rwhp in my '86 GT. with almost that exact setup...
I purchased L303 GT40 heads way back when....FRPP used to sell them, they are just F3ZE Cobra heads with better parts than the production heads.... You got SS valves, and the A50 Valvetrain kit for under $400. for the pair....The only work I had done.. a valve job...and flow benched...just for my own curiosity..
So it was basically a '93 Cobra engine with the better stock '86 SD Cam, 19 lb., Cobra 1.7 rockers, '93 Cobra Intake and 70mm TB. This was all using the stock speed density VM1 ECM tune...
It did have MAC under drive pulleys, equal-lenth headers, Off road H, and every muffler combo possible lol. T-5 Motorsport clutch.
I had several Camshafts to pick from B303 and the baby Crower...but seeing how several of my buddies gained 2 to 3 rwhp and lumpy sound....at best... because one friend with a Capri slowed at the track after switching cams twice!!
Anyway I didn't want the headache or extra expense of MAF when my power adder had no effect on tuning...artificial atmosphere by my NOS Dry kit, plus my NOS Bigshot Plate kit (never ran the wet kit) both of which were VERY close as delivered.
That’s awesome buddy!
So. Is it worth it? Whats your view on all of that. I appreciate the breakdown, i want to know like if you think personally that this is the route to go down.
Love the video! Thanks a bunch
Thank you. Here are my thoughts from another video: ruclips.net/video/rRCY7Ch8unA/видео.html
Not everyone has deep pockets for a coyote swap, godzilla or ls. Power on the cheap will always be around.
Should take into account if you’ll pay someone to do it or if you’ll DIY
Yes but that will be very subjective to a persons local area and or many different variable so I thought I would just leave that cost estimate out
3 years ago you could have done all of that for half the price. Sad times we live in...
Amen buddy 🍻
Here's a story the cheer you up.. Lol... I bought a brand new set of L303 GT40 3 bar heads in IDK...2003-ish from FRPP....
Sold through their catalogues, they came better equipped than stock ones, with Stainless Valves, and the A50 Spring package...
A brand new set of GT40 iron heads back then....$400.... for the pair!! I also purchased 1.7 Cobra rockers for $170. and a '93 Cobra intake for $280. all at once...
For around $850. I had all brand new parts!!
People are selling high mileage heads at crazy prices nowadays, above $800....you could also easily spend that at the machine shop rebuilding everything on both heads....
If I found cheap ones to do again...all I'd do is replace the springs and make sure they were flat.
4k for an EXPLORER top end? Absolute waste of money
GT40P heads call for the 6.3 push rod length. 🦊
There’s no one size fits all pushrod for a specific head. The pushrod length will be dependent on more factors than that. Cam lift, rocker ratio and design ect. You just always have to measure and select the correct length after test fitting.
Not cheap. This is why I haven't pulled my motor yet. Even just detailing the motor and doing a cam swap it pricey. Already GT40 heads, explorer intake and a 30lb injector set up.
Yessir
JUST GET A SUPERCHARGER AND DRIVE>>> ON STOCK MOTOR, WONT BE DISSAPOINTED ....
They ain’t cheap either!
you forgot headers
He put full exhaust on the car a few episodes back, but I do think he forgot head gaskets.
He did a whole fel pro garket set for sb302
Wow you overpaid for those Gt40 parts. Unless you got 3 bar heads which for the price im assuming you did. I sell restored explorer intakes for 250 and 150 for junkyard condition. And 4 bar heads for 200, 3 bar heads for 300.
It costs me $300 to fill my truck with fuel where I live. Nothing is cheap around here
@@KASLCustoms Agreed, I'm in the Edmonton area and can attest to that. Good luck getting an explorer intake around here for less than $300 even in junkyard condition, there just aren't as many of them around here as there are South of the border. There was a V8 explorer that showed up in the wrecking yard a few months ago, I got there a few days after it hit the yard and the heads and intake were already gone. True enough you can find them for 150 to 250 on ebay but by the time you pay for exchange, taxes and shipping you are at the same dollar value or more.
Yessir - we get the 💩 end of the stick up here…
@@KASLCustoms Thats a shame. Theirs two sets in a yard about 30 min from me now i havent had a chance to go get yet. Usually pay 120 for heads and intake at the yards. Getting far and few between but still find them regularly in PA.
Ya it truly is! Man I wish 😂👍
First!