No end play measurement? How do you know you are not too tight? It will still spin. I set mine up to .003”. Spec is .001 to .008”. Flange nut is 100 lbft of torque.
I only ever did one of these (although I got 2 coming tonight) we actually assembled it wrapping a piece of solder in place of the shim, disassembled it measured the smashed solder and ground a shim to fit. Might be a help to folks like me that don't have all the specialized tools. Thanks for the video, nice work.
Thanks for showing this process. I remember when Chevy dealers were charging around $500 per wheel to do this job (mid-'70s). They didn't always set them up right, so the bearings sometimes only lasted 20-30K miles. I eventually sanded down the spindles on my '64 so the inner bearing was only a slight interference fit. Once that's done, you can replace both sides in a couple of hours without pulling the arms, and no special tools are required (except a dial gauge).
Great video. I really like how you walked us through the disassembly and assembly of the rear bearings. I will be using this to help me rebuild mine. This will be my first attempt at this. The only criticism would be that I wished you showed the bearing endplay being tested with a dial indicator. The novices won't know what a proper feel is and will need to measure it. Maybe you can add this on your next rebuild. Thanks
I assure you that for final assembly all dust shields were installed correctly regardless thanks for watching so closely. Only a detailed Corvette guy would pick up on something like that two thumbs up.
I bought an assembly from van steel, when I put the flange yoke, the flat washer, and the nut on and torque it to 100 lbs/ft the flange yoke has axial play Its as if the washer contacts the stub shaft but the flange yoke is not touching the inner race of the bearing.
Didn’t play it was the same question I was going to ask nobody answers that why are you not setting that up with a dial indicator don’t get me wrong. I love your video. I’m watching it religiously because I’m doing a Corvette tomorrow.
Hmm. . .GM is very specific about the amount of end play that you SHOULD have on the bearings. You want some end play (cannot remember the spec but I seem to remember it being ~.002). . .and the recommendations are to use a micrometer and pry bar to test for it.
Why will this procedure not work on a disc brake trailing arm? It is good to see the bearing support re bearing-ed while removed from the trailing arm - I often wonder why the re-builders do not offer this service? You alway have to send them the complete trailing arm assembly for rebuild.
This is an excellent article. It is clear, step by step, and good visual. I wonder however if every enthusiast will go the length of making that puller you used. Apart from this, I am a little confused because I am unsure if the set up tool duplicates, exactly, the actual situation. Spacers are used to take up the discrepancies in bearing thicknesses? Not the arm depth? Thanks.
Yes sir. Seems some people don’t know things and they try to come across as experts and then have people following a person who learnt wrong. :( but he does an okay job to explain things to a real beginner.
Looks like you left out the dust shield GM Part # 3820238 that goes on the spindle support, over the press in grease seal. Check your parts book/assembly manual.
No end play measurement? How do you know you are not too tight? It will still spin. I set mine up to .003”. Spec is .001 to .008”. Flange nut is 100 lbft of torque.
I only ever did one of these (although I got 2 coming tonight) we actually assembled it wrapping a piece of solder in place of the shim, disassembled it measured the smashed solder and ground a shim to fit. Might be a help to folks like me that don't have all the specialized tools. Thanks for the video, nice work.
Thanks for showing this process. I remember when Chevy dealers were charging around $500 per wheel to do this job (mid-'70s). They didn't always set them up right, so the bearings sometimes only lasted 20-30K miles. I eventually sanded down the spindles on my '64 so the inner bearing was only a slight interference fit. Once that's done, you can replace both sides in a couple of hours without pulling the arms, and no special tools are required (except a dial gauge).
Finally! A video that show how to do the work properly. Thank you.
Great video. I really like how you walked us through the disassembly and assembly of the rear bearings. I will be using this to help me rebuild mine. This will be my first attempt at this. The only criticism would be that I wished you showed the bearing endplay being tested with a dial indicator. The novices won't know what a proper feel is and will need to measure it. Maybe you can add this on your next rebuild.
Thanks
I assure you that for final assembly all dust shields were installed correctly regardless thanks for watching so closely. Only a detailed Corvette guy would pick up on something like that two thumbs up.
All good except he didn't put the rear brake caliper support bracket on.
I bought an assembly from van steel, when I put the flange yoke, the flat washer, and the nut on and torque it to 100 lbs/ft the flange yoke has axial play
Its as if the washer contacts the stub shaft but the flange yoke is not touching the inner race of the bearing.
You don't use a Dial Indicator to measure end play???
I thought the endplay is about .003 to .007 with a dial indicator. I set mine to .003 ?
@@smokey4343 True,,,,,,, some say to set it at 0 but that isn't correct. When the assembly heats up 0 play can cause it to bind.
How do you know you are not too tight if you didn’t measure the end play? Spec is .001 to .008”. I set mine up at .003”
Didn’t play it was the same question I was going to ask nobody answers that why are you not setting that up with a dial indicator don’t get me wrong. I love your video. I’m watching it religiously because I’m doing a Corvette tomorrow.
Hmm. . .GM is very specific about the amount of end play that you SHOULD have on the bearings. You want some end play (cannot remember the spec but I seem to remember it being ~.002). . .and the recommendations are to use a micrometer and pry bar to test for it.
Good advice. Lets use the facts. Feel is to arbitrary.
Enjoyed the video. I have a 75 vette so this is good to know.!
It would be better if you told the toque on the nut?
Awesome video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
Just discovered your videos .Very informative . Keep em coming .
Sister Josie I don't know why you wouldn't use a hydraulic press on a lot of this stuff
Also: You missed on the part of replacing the races. Isn't that a must??
Why will this procedure not work on a disc brake trailing arm? It is good to see the bearing support re bearing-ed while removed from the trailing arm - I often wonder why the re-builders do not offer this service? You alway have to send them the complete trailing arm assembly for rebuild.
This is an excellent article. It is clear, step by step, and good visual. I wonder however if every enthusiast will go the length of making that puller you used. Apart from this, I am a little confused because I am unsure if the set up tool duplicates, exactly, the actual situation. Spacers are used to take up the discrepancies in bearing thicknesses? Not the arm depth? Thanks.
Hi, Great explanation and thanks for the detail.Is the procedure the same on the disc brake rear end? Cheers
Thanks again.
point of the mock up tool is not to have to do a test fit on the actual shaft pressing the bearing on and off the real shaft.
Yes sir. Seems some people don’t know things and they try to come across as experts and then have people following a person who learnt wrong. :( but he does an okay job to explain things to a real beginner.
That's Mr jonesy
Is the torque for the final nut 100 ft/lbs?
It isn't on this one. He also didn't set the .004 clearance it's should have.
Looks like you left out the dust shield GM Part # 3820238 that goes on the spindle support, over the press in grease seal. Check your parts book/assembly manual.
Cool Metropolitan