thanks a lot for the info, and thats a really cool way to show your product, show em off, then teach me something. now i know where to go for rotors or hubs!
Excellent video. Thanks. The proper name for that punch is "Transfer Punch". Just in case anyone goes looking to buy a set they will know what to look for.
Alway remove rings, jewelry and watch prior to operation power equipment. This includes shutting off equipment when moving work piece. Always use eye, ear and protective gear, including thermal resistant gloves and no loose clothing, ties or long sleeves. If working on automotive brake products manufactured prior to 1972, consider washing the item with water and solvent to remove particles of asbestos to keep work area and equipment clean for future use. Alway make sure floor is free of trip hazards and establish a clear policy of no interruptions or distractions while operating power equipment. ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired
Conventional wisdom on the Corvette Forum, C3 technical is once rotors are separated from the front hubs, impossible to get new rotors perfectly aligned so no rotor wobble. Comments?
You should first check the hub with a dial indicator. Harbor Freight sells them with magnetic base. If the hub is true you should not have a wobble. If the hub is not true, you can either turn the hub in a lathe to true it or make shims to fit over the wheel studs, tighten the rotor to the hub and recheck. Thanks
IMHO (and I've changed 8 sets of rotors over the years, the holes that the lugs penetrate through the new rotor, are just a couple thousands larger than the lugs, so when you mate the two together again - the alignment will be almost exact. By the way, I use an impact wrench with a punch, and the rivet tails come out real quickly. Thanks
Yes, The rears have to be done on the car. You still can tighten a rotor up against the one on the car. If you do not drill through the rivet, you can just knock off the head and pull the old rotor off leaving the tails of the rivet and slide the new rotor on.
Do you see an issue with possible bearing or shaft damage from hitting the rivets or should they knock off without much of a lick? Also, had this information been included in the video it would have been a thumbs up. Great tip for using the new rotor to center punch the rivets.
@@jdhoff4486 No Issue, But like I wrote before, leaving the rivet tails in after drilling the heads will make it easier. It won't look spectacular, but it will get the job done quicker.
@@cssbinc1 Thanks, I guess I will bite the bullet and take them out. I may have missed a post, but do you have any suggestion for putting in the new front crossover line?? I sure do hope so.
@@sterlinthegreat thank you. I guess there should be no worry of unbalance because in the first place what the company did during assembly was the same, plus they added the rivets (which, lets remember, are not centering studs)
so you dont rivet the hubs back on? ive been back and forth with my stepdad whose a master mechanic and he says i just knock the studs out and the rotors come off. i know the rivets hold the rotor to the hub. i thought the studs did too. atleast its not a huge deal. i really worried we would have to rivet the rotors back to the hub and that was going to be a mess. ill just drill the rivets and get my moms vette back on the road. also so crazy to think the brakes havent been touched since 1979. her vette has a 425 hp 383 stroker in it now. its on its atleast 3rd motor. the last time my mom drove her vette was about 12 years ago. when the brakes failed. looks like the brakes will be fixed soon and im gonna get to line up with her and see whose cool car is faster now.
The rotors do not need to be riveted back on. The wheel will hold the rotors on like a Honda or Toyota type. The studs should not hold or interfere with the rotors. The studs align the rotors and the rotors should slide on an off with no resistance. Now, if this was a car being restored like a museum piece. You would rivet them back on. www.cssbinc.com
@@cssbinc1 if it was getting raced on a track or something im sure it would be worth the rivets too. modern cars fair fine with slip on rotors. i just figured for its old high speed capability it was to keep the rotors dead center so it was balanced. no high speed vibration. most likely its more mundane reasons and to make assembly easier so the rotor wasnt falling off all the time.
@msacco175 >Many companies for years, riveted the screwed the rotor to the hub. As a tech, brake inspections are important for our customers to prevent rotor damage or reduced braking due to loss of friction contact. So don’t cut it that close. All machinery requires daily, weekly, monthly or semi-annual inspection. Imports like domestic today, slide the rotor over the lug bolts/bearing assembly, but held in place with a screw. It is like the old saying, if your driving a Corvette and you question why is made that way or cost that much...maybe you shouldn’t be driving a Corvette. I have a 1967 C10 PU with drum brakes on the front, they are riveted together. If you where driving a Dodge, the lug bolts on the drivers side may have an “L” stamped on them. It’s left-handed thread. I ask why? No answer! ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired
Авто/Мото
Best Video I have seen on the process. Thank you !
thanks a lot for the info, and thats a really cool way to show your product, show em off, then teach me something. now i know where to go for rotors or hubs!
EXCELLENT video! THANKS! I will be looking on your website when I am ready to mine off of my 69 .
Excellent video. Thanks. The proper name for that punch is "Transfer Punch". Just in case anyone goes looking to buy a set they will know what to look for.
Why are there so many different types of Punches? Is it ok to use my gunsmithin punches for a job like this?
Alway remove rings, jewelry and watch prior to operation power equipment. This includes shutting off equipment when moving work piece. Always use eye, ear and protective gear, including thermal resistant gloves and no loose clothing, ties or long sleeves. If working on automotive brake products manufactured prior to 1972, consider washing the item with water and solvent to remove particles of asbestos to keep work area and equipment clean for future use. Alway make sure floor is free of trip hazards and establish a clear policy of no interruptions or distractions while operating power equipment. ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired
Worked like a charm - Thanks!
Nice ! Life made easy ! Thanks 😎🏁
amazing, thanks for the information
Nice video. Thanks.
Very Good, I got 4 to do. Oh yes plus two spares...
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Great video
Wow you just showed your age with the mention of that ad LOL
Conventional wisdom on the Corvette Forum, C3 technical is once rotors are separated from the front hubs, impossible to get new rotors perfectly aligned so no rotor wobble. Comments?
You should first check the hub with a dial indicator. Harbor Freight sells them with magnetic base. If the hub is true you should not have a wobble. If the hub is not true, you can either turn the hub in a lathe to true it or make shims to fit over the wheel studs, tighten the rotor to the hub and recheck. Thanks
CSSB Inc | Corvette Parts Thank you!
IMHO (and I've changed 8 sets of rotors over the years, the holes that the lugs penetrate through the new rotor, are just a couple thousands larger than the lugs, so when you mate the two together again - the alignment will be almost exact. By the way, I use an impact wrench with a punch, and the rivet tails come out real quickly. Thanks
Great video 👌
Ummm. How do you get the rotor off without breaking the rivets?
They are "single use" items - you can buy them here ... www.zip-corvette.com/65-82-front-rear-brake-rotor-rivets.html
Rear is not quit like the front. Have to drill rivets on the car and have parking brake to deal with. Fine for fronts with good tips.
Yes, The rears have to be done on the car. You still can tighten a rotor up against the one on the car. If you do not drill through the rivet, you can just knock off the head and pull the old rotor off leaving the tails of the rivet and slide the new rotor on.
Do you see an issue with possible bearing or shaft damage from hitting the rivets or should they knock off without much of a lick? Also, had this information been included in the video it would have been a thumbs up. Great tip for using the new rotor to center punch the rivets.
@@jdhoff4486 No Issue, But like I wrote before, leaving the rivet tails in after drilling the heads will make it easier. It won't look spectacular, but it will get the job done quicker.
@@cssbinc1 Thanks, I guess I will bite the bullet and take them out. I may have missed a post, but do you have any suggestion for putting in the new front crossover line?? I sure do hope so.
John Hoff what year? 352-554-5470
Nice! Thanks.
How do you insert the emg brake in the new rotors?
Air hammer too
Excellent video. Dumb question: so I don’t need to put new rivets in with the new rotor?
No. Just slide the new rotors on. The wheel will hold the rotors in place.
@@sterlinthegreat thank you. I guess there should be no worry of unbalance because in the first place what the company did during assembly was the same, plus they added the rivets (which, lets remember, are not centering studs)
What purpose do the rivets serve...mr. gm engineer? Thanks for wasting my time!
So I’m understanding correctly, you don’t put rivets back in the hub to rotor assembly?
Chris Hale you are correct. There are no rivets used after this process. The shell holds the rotors on.
@@cssbinc1 why were they there in the first place?
@@MLEB723 because it made factory install easier
so you dont rivet the hubs back on?
ive been back and forth with my stepdad whose a master mechanic and he says i just knock the studs out and the rotors come off. i know the rivets hold the rotor to the hub. i thought the studs did too. atleast its not a huge deal. i really worried we would have to rivet the rotors back to the hub and that was going to be a mess. ill just drill the rivets and get my moms vette back on the road.
also so crazy to think the brakes havent been touched since 1979. her vette has a 425 hp 383 stroker in it now. its on its atleast 3rd motor. the last time my mom drove her vette was about 12 years ago. when the brakes failed. looks like the brakes will be fixed soon and im gonna get to line up with her and see whose cool car is faster now.
The rotors do not need to be riveted back on. The wheel will hold the rotors on like a Honda or Toyota type. The studs should not hold or interfere with the rotors. The studs align the rotors and the rotors should slide on an off with no resistance. Now, if this was a car being restored like a museum piece. You would rivet them back on. www.cssbinc.com
@@cssbinc1 if it was getting raced on a track or something im sure it would be worth the rivets too. modern cars fair fine with slip on rotors. i just figured for its old high speed capability it was to keep the rotors dead center so it was balanced. no high speed vibration. most likely its more mundane reasons and to make assembly easier so the rotor wasnt falling off all the time.
the rear ones are a bitch to drill out they will have to be drilled out on the car using battery powered drill. cant use drill press on the rears
Why is this? Asking because I'm doing my 79 next weekend. Thanks
Pain in ass. Why
@msacco175 >Many companies for years, riveted the screwed the rotor to the hub. As a tech, brake inspections are important for our customers to prevent rotor damage or reduced braking due to loss of friction contact. So don’t cut it that close. All machinery requires daily, weekly, monthly or semi-annual inspection. Imports like domestic today, slide the rotor over the lug bolts/bearing assembly, but held in place with a screw.
It is like the old saying, if your driving a Corvette and you question why is made that way or cost that much...maybe you shouldn’t be driving a Corvette. I have a 1967 C10 PU with drum brakes on the front, they are riveted together. If you where driving a Dodge, the lug bolts on the drivers side may have an “L” stamped on them. It’s left-handed thread. I ask why? No answer! ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired
What, a gorilla? Where?
Seriously....a claw hammer.....
Yes, A claw Hammer!
It worked ! Right ! Ooooook then !
Great video