My 74 Corvette does the same thing and I didn’t know what the problem was until I saw your video. Thank you, I’ll be able to deal with the problem now.
Thanks to the tips in this video I was able to change the top and bottom bushings. I had the same issue as several other posters in that I removed the front bolt on the diff housing to get the bushings in. But then the diff bolt would not line up due to the thickness of the new lower bushing. I had to use a crow bar to carefully pry the bracket from the diff support to make room to slide the lower bushing in. It’s wasn’t easy and there’s no way ploy bushings would have worked. I read where others used a running car to apply torque to align the holes. I’m just a one man garage. Glad this job is complete and I do ever plan to do it again.
IM HAVING A PROBLEM ON MY 1981 CORVETTE . MAYBY YOU CAN HELP ME WITH . I CANT FIGURE IT OUT , BUT WHEN IM ON THE HIGHWAY AT SAY , 75 MPH , WHEN I LET THE GAS GO MY RIGHT WHEEL LIKE COMES BACK IN AND I HAVE TO ADJUST MY SELF TO STEERING IT ... IM HOPEING YOU UNDERSTAD ME... ITS LIKE MY RIGHT REAR GOS BACK IF I GO FAST AND KICKS BACK IN WHEN IM SLOWING DOWN ... JUST WONDERING IF YOU HAVE HAD ANY ISSUES LIKE THIS BEFORE AND HOW CAN I FIX IT .. THANK YOU ;...
Rear trailing arm bushing is shot. Inside pocket of frame at front of trailing arm. Hard job if single pivot bolt is frozen to sleeve. Cut thru bolt and shims recipro saw. Best blades you can buy.
Helpful video, FYI I have a 4 post drive up rack in my garage and doing it on that was a breeze on my 72 coupe. Since the car is on its wheels and there is no load on the diff. Had the old bushings and bolt out in 10 minutes. No removing the driveshaft or the rear diff carrier bolts.
I just did my 73 snubber. The only problem I had was getting the forward bracket bolt back in. (The only one I removed). I tried jacking up the bracket, jacking up the differential. No good. I took it off the jack stands so it was on the ground. Had my son watch at a safe distance. When I put it in reverse with the brakes applied it lined up better. With a little gas it lined up perfectly. My son was able to quickly slip in the bolt. I did have the front wheels blocked. Oh, and the top bushing wouldn’t go into the bottom bushing by itself. I had to put the bolt through and tighten it down to get them to mesh. That was easy.
Axxel thank you for posting this! I was having the same problem and would have never known to try this. For me, in reverse adding gas didn't help. BUT....I had my daughter hold the brakes while putting it in reverse and back to park a few times while I was pushing on the bolt underneath. Each time the bolt went in a bit more. Done! Mine's a '77.
I just bought my first C2 ('66) Vette and I have the same issue with the clunking in the rear-end. I bought the Rear End Mount Cushion from Eckler's and I'm going to attempt the replacement this weekend. If you've learned or know anything more about replacing this on a C2, I'd love you advice. Thanks for the posting and l hope to start sharing some of my own learnings along the way! Cheers, Dave!
AlexyFamily congratulations on your purchase! Unfortunately I do not have much dealings in the C2 realm. I wish you great luck in that however. It is likely bushings just like the C3.
Great video. But I wanted to see how the bushing went. Like which side goes where. Other than you not showing us anything about the bushings or how they are stacked. Great video.
For folks that tried the other methods (jacking up the diff a bit, the brakes and putting in reverse &gas) and still can’t get the old bushings out I’m wondering if u can also gouge or drill at it to tear it up some how (torch it?). Would that work?
Thank You for the comment. This is a large nut under constant pressure. I do not believe nyloc is necessary. If torquing, most driveline are 20 ft/lbs.
Hey, great vid, although I got the new bushings in but, had to remove one of the diff support bolts to make Room for the lower bushing. With the lower bushing in I can’t push up on the bracket enough for the holes to align to get the support bracket bolt back in. Any suggestions please?
The link did not work but I have a question the guy I brought the car from said he locked all for tires when going about 100mph or more one time and after that when driving the car now you feel a some vibration when driving at times
Hey, my teenager needs to replace these bushings on his orange '79. Are these under load like the mono spring bushings are? I don't want him getting hurt if it flies apart upon removal. Thanks
I replaced that rubber cushion with poly and with a burnout I cracked the tongue bracket welded to frame!!! rubber has more flex and would have prevented this issue!!
Thank you for the video I have a 1968 Corvette When I drive my Corvette And everything gets warm when I go to make a left turn from a dead stop I get a clunking noise I thought it was the differential so I changed the gear oil with a friction modifier I'm still getting the clunking.. I ordered this bushing do you think this could be it?
My 74 Corvette does the same thing and I didn’t know what the problem was until I saw your video. Thank you, I’ll be able to deal with the problem now.
Thanks to the tips in this video I was able to change the top and bottom bushings. I had the same issue as several other posters in that I removed the front bolt on the diff housing to get the bushings in. But then the diff bolt would not line up due to the thickness of the new lower bushing. I had to use a crow bar to carefully pry the bracket from the diff support to make room to slide the lower bushing in. It’s wasn’t easy and there’s no way ploy bushings would have worked. I read where others used a running car to apply torque to align the holes. I’m just a one man garage. Glad this job is complete and I do ever plan to do it again.
Awesome - sounds like you kicked its butt!!!
I have the same issue! Thank you for making a video on the problem. I agree there is no other videos explaining/ resolving this issue!
IM HAVING A PROBLEM ON MY 1981 CORVETTE . MAYBY YOU CAN HELP ME WITH . I CANT FIGURE IT OUT , BUT WHEN IM ON THE HIGHWAY AT SAY , 75 MPH , WHEN I LET THE GAS GO MY RIGHT WHEEL LIKE COMES BACK IN AND I HAVE TO ADJUST MY SELF TO STEERING IT ... IM HOPEING YOU UNDERSTAD ME... ITS LIKE MY RIGHT REAR GOS BACK IF I GO FAST AND KICKS BACK IN WHEN IM SLOWING DOWN ... JUST WONDERING IF YOU HAVE HAD ANY ISSUES LIKE THIS BEFORE AND HOW CAN I FIX IT .. THANK YOU ;...
Rear trailing arm bushing is shot.
Inside pocket of frame at front of trailing arm. Hard job if single pivot bolt is frozen to sleeve.
Cut thru bolt and shims recipro saw. Best blades you can buy.
Helpful video, FYI I have a 4 post drive up rack in my garage and doing it on that was a breeze on my 72 coupe. Since the car is on its wheels and there is no load on the diff. Had the old bushings and bolt out in 10 minutes. No removing the driveshaft or the rear diff carrier bolts.
amazing video you have the best one and pretty much the only one. NICE JOB NICE CAR
I just did my 73 snubber. The only problem I had was getting the forward bracket bolt back in. (The only one I removed). I tried jacking up the bracket, jacking up the differential. No good. I took it off the jack stands so it was on the ground. Had my son watch at a safe distance. When I put it in reverse with the brakes applied it lined up better. With a little gas it lined up perfectly. My son was able to quickly slip in the bolt.
I did have the front wheels blocked.
Oh, and the top bushing wouldn’t go into the bottom bushing by itself. I had to put the bolt through and tighten it down to get them to mesh. That was easy.
Wow!!! Crazy experience!
Axxel thank you for posting this! I was having the same problem and would have never known to try this.
For me, in reverse adding gas didn't help. BUT....I had my daughter hold the brakes while putting it in reverse and back to park a few times while I was pushing on the bolt underneath. Each time the bolt went in a bit more. Done! Mine's a '77.
BTW, great video. Thanks for filming. Huge help!
It was a tricky job even on my lift sitting on a stool. Removing the front bracket bolt helped
Awesome feedback! Thank you for that!
Used polyurethane on my 74. Three years now and no issues.
I just bought my first C2 ('66) Vette and I have the same issue with the clunking in the rear-end. I bought the Rear End Mount Cushion from Eckler's and I'm going to attempt the replacement this weekend. If you've learned or know anything more about replacing this on a C2, I'd love you advice. Thanks for the posting and l hope to start sharing some of my own learnings along the way! Cheers, Dave!
AlexyFamily congratulations on your purchase! Unfortunately I do not have much dealings in the C2 realm. I wish you great luck in that however. It is likely bushings just like the C3.
1963-1979 chassis are basically the same. Other than structural supports for Big Blocks and other tweaks they are basically the same
Great video. But I wanted to see how the bushing went. Like which side goes where. Other than you not showing us anything about the bushings or how they are stacked. Great video.
Thanks soooo much for this video! Mine has this same issue!
Cheers!
On the later 80-82 the leaf spring end bolt nuts removed takes the tension off and it ban be pried with little effort.
For folks that tried the other methods (jacking up the diff a bit, the brakes and putting in reverse &gas) and still can’t get the old bushings out I’m wondering if u can also gouge or drill at it to tear it up some how (torch it?). Would that work?
Is it worth putting a nyloc but on the bolt? Does it need torquing? Great video
Thank You for the comment. This is a large nut under constant pressure. I do not believe nyloc is necessary. If torquing, most driveline are 20 ft/lbs.
Hey, great vid, although I got the new bushings in but, had to remove one of the diff support bolts to make Room for the lower bushing. With the lower bushing in I can’t push up on the bracket enough for the holes to align to get the support bracket bolt back in. Any suggestions please?
How did you solve this problem, please?
How do you remove the 2 bolts on the bracket? Mind is getting stuck on the passenger side. I’m trying to remove the bracket to change the pinion seal
The link did not work but I have a question the guy I brought the car from said he locked all for tires when going about 100mph or more one time and after that when driving the car now you feel a some vibration when driving at times
Is there a compelling reason why you can't reverse the bolt and thread it in from the bottom? Clearance on the top side, for example?
Good question! Sorry I missed this. It would be clearance issue for sure.
It's the nut spinning freely or is the whole bolt spinning? Don't you have to hold the top of that bolt also?
Hey, my teenager needs to replace these bushings on his orange '79. Are these under load like the mono spring bushings are? I don't want him getting hurt if it flies apart upon removal. Thanks
Marzen thanks for the question- just light pressure from your jack on the differential. Not dangerous at all and well worth the change.
How many bushings do you need there?
1
Where are Jack stand points? 1977 c3
Anywhere along the frame rail ONLY
I replaced that rubber cushion with poly and with a burnout I cracked the tongue bracket welded to frame!!! rubber has more flex and would have prevented this issue!!
I am sorry to hear that friend. I lay rubber all the time and ate more lucky.
Thank you for the video I have a 1968 Corvette When I drive my Corvette And everything gets warm when I go to make a left turn from a dead stop I get a clunking noise I thought it was the differential so I changed the gear oil with a friction modifier I'm still getting the clunking.. I ordered this bushing do you think this could be it?
It’s a very common source! Hoping it is for you.
@@TheEVAddict could be 1 of the 6 u joints too, or a cracked differential housing near spring
Why would the front of the car need to be raised to put the car in neutral so you can move the driveshaft by hand? It's a rear wheel drive car...
frame flex
There is not 1 metric bolt or nut on this car.
Having a problem putting that front bolt back into the bracket. It’s not aligning now that the larger bushing is in. Any advice, please??
Try adding a Jack under the differential and adjust it little by little until it lines up
Thank you for the reply! I will try it!
I have the same problem and the jack on the differential didn't do the trick. Did you end up doing something different?