Good Vid! Well explained. Love the 3 phase! For me working with household electric made sense once I realized that the standard panel is 240 volts and that the 120v circuits are a special adaptation, not the other way around. It’s not immediately obvious because most circuits are 120v. 240v just connects across the two 120 legs. A 120v circuit connects one of the 120 legs to neutral, making it very similar to a center tap on a transformer used to get a lower voltage. This also requires that the loads be balanced across the two 120v legs. Example, most new kitchens have two 20 amp circuits, they are usually high demand and put on separate 120v legs. Similarly you’d try to balance the household lighting evenly.
You did a good job but code requires that each box has a separate ground wire regardless of metal pipe. And you need to do the wiggle and tighten on all terminals on plug and breakers. To make sure they are tight. Do it 3 times on each terminal.
I am NOT a licensed electrician, but I have done a lot of electrical work, electronics, automotive, carpentry, welding, plumbing AND video/audio work. DON'T quit your day job!
After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans ruclips.net/user/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
I'm a license electrician, you did everything right, with one exception, all metal boxes have to grounded, that's why each box has a ground screw. Over all you did a great job
Ty for the info. I recently watched a video explaining the ground and why one should ground each box. It was a cartoon and showed the character becoming the pathway of least resistance. I know its basic for you electricians, but I didn't understand why each box needed to be grounded when there was already a ground in the panel. Again ty for the solid bit of LIFE SAVING input.
@@nodave77 They are, but electrical current will take the path of least resistance, so to make sure it is lower resistance than through your body to ground, you should ground every box.
@@katzmosestools Yeah, I see the usefulness of a very academic video where an electrical engineering professor from a fine technical university describes all the functions and features of particular electrical items -- BUT THIS ISN'T THIS, AND THAT'S OK! This is a fine practical guide and I think it's very useful. Thanks for posting.
Licensed Electrician here, I think you did a great DIY vid man. I generally cringe at the DIY videos on youtube on this subject well, because everything they tell people to do or they do them self is oh so wrong. From the type of wire they use or how its ran or leaving it exposed/ code violations ect. But I actually thought you did/ explained everything just fine and in a way that about anyone can understand. Great job my friend!
Aside from the under sized ground in my opinion.. really think there should be a way back for each one. 120 doesn't leave me so earie but in this case...
I noticed that several professional electricians have commented below. None seemed to notice the 208V issue so I will go into a little more detail. This panel is fed from a three phase power source. The source is connected in a Y configuration. I know this because you have three "hot"/phase conductors plus a neutral. The voltage between any two "hot" conductors will be 208V, not 240V as the video states. The voltage between any "hot"/phase conductor and neutral is indeed 120V as stated in the video. There is no 240V anywhere in this panel. If you will notice, the videographer never measures the voltage between any two "hot"/phase conductors. If he did he would measure 208V. For a three phase Y connected source the mathematical relationship between line to neutral and line to line voltage is a factor of √3. You multiply the line to neutral voltage by the √3 (1.73) to get line to line voltage. 120 X 1.73 = 208 (okay, you have figured out by now that I am an electrical engineer). If the videographer would measure the voltage between any two of the "hot"/phase conductors in the panel or measure the voltage between the two "hot"/phase conductors in the outlet connector he will find 208V. Sometimes this a non-issue and sometimes it is a problem depending on the equipment that is being powered. On another note, I am jealous that he has three phase power in his shop. This is almost never the case in a residential environment.
He stated the fact regarding 3 phase at the beginning of the video. And he declared the video is about normal 240v split phase (residential) wiring.. so it seems he covered that. ...while a 208v tutorial 'addendum' would have been great, I think it would have confused most people not versed in alternating current systems :-). BTW: your explanation of 3 phase and how it is 208v across the poles is probably the best i have seen.. I recommend you pop that into quora.com.. there are a zillion wrong answers over there, on this description!! :-))
I was an electrical apprentice for 8 months approximately 30 years ago. Without any school training, just in the field. We did wire in a 'phase generator' for a sawmill the had only two phase (firm) power and three phase motors. The other question I would have is if you use only two hots from a three phase supply, do the motors lose efficiency due to the phases not being 180° from each other? Aren't the phases pulsing at 120° then at 240° then nothing at 360°? So yes, still pulsing twice per cycle but not completely opposed to each other?
Thanks for sharing. Not slamming you man...just adding to your knowledge. It’s best to test your multi meter on a known live source before ensuring your panel is dead. You could very well have a broken lead or defective meter and it could display 0 volts.
You have two grounding conductors in that panel, the one you tested was on an insulated bar meaning it's isolated back to the main. This is usually done for more sensitive electronics. The grounding conductor you want is on the left side of the panel.
@@ireviewapple4you in theory no it does not matter for person use. however you could cause a nightmare for the next person who owns the properly if they use something that is sensitive to stray voltage. especially if they don't know wheres its coming from something like this could be hard to track down
The non bonded neutral and ground bar is because it's a sub panel and the ground conducter is the called the grounding conductor and the neutral conductor is the grounded conductor
Not a bad job at all. And this coming from a guy with 40+ years in the trade. On thing though! Do not use a 30 amp rated outlet with wire rated for 20 amps. Use the proper gauge wire for the appropriate application... Also as a note........ This is a straight 208/240 volt setup.... NO NEUTRAL! The wiring method for say, a clothes dryer would be slightly different...... As The dryer requires a neutral and a four wire outlet, Two hotlegs a neutral and a ground.......
To add to it, I'd get myself un Ugly book before doing anything to take the guess work out of things. Not all local codes match NEC but, for the most part they do but don't count on it. One fire marshal visit can shut your commercial enterprise down. I worked on the Alabama power remod in Celera, AL and just from a practical, Electrician standpoint, it's always better to ensure you're work is up to code (strapping from both the panel board & along your EMT/MC) because if anything ever goes sideways and an insurance company can prove it's not up to local code, guess what? They ain't payin'...usually, NEC will work though.
SimplyTHC 208volt here in canada is the 3phase power generally in commercial buildings. Where as 240 is both hots present on a single phase residential service.
Nice video, here's a few comments from a professional sparky to help those who may not be familiar with 3Ø power. The system that you have there is a 3Ø, 4 wire, Wye system which is 208Y/120 volts. Your 2 pole receptacle is being fed with 208 volts, it is not 240 volts or 220 volts. The nominal 1Ø voltage system in the United States is 120/240. A 3Ø, 4 wire Delta system would be 240/208/120, see no 220 volts (it's an obsolete term).
Yeah he glossed over the 3 phase thing. Also his neutral will not actually be neutral due to the hots being 120 degrees (not 180 degrees) out of phase with each other. Does equipment mind that?
Overall good install. Quick clarification that most houses in the US use 240 split phase, while the system shown was a 208 3 phase. 220 is rare in the US. This doesn’t affect much, and most >200V tools can handle all three, but hopefully this helps someone trying to figure out why their numbers don’t match.
@@user.A9 Yep. Or when folks say 110 instead of 120. Change is difficult for some people. It hasn't been 110/220 for almost 100 years. In the early 1900s, the first power systems in the US were 110/220 volts. In the 1930s, the voltage increased to 115/230 volts due to increasing power demands. In the 1960s, the voltage changed again to 120/240 volts. In 1967, the voltage became standardized as 120/240 volts. I wonder if folks will stay say 110/220 in another 100 years.
@@JeanPierreWhiteMy grandpa called it 110 and 220 when I was a kid and it stuck. I know what the real numbers are but the 10's and 20's just sound so right in my head.
It is definitely easy and if you have a shop where the conduit is exposed, do it yourself and save a bundle. Just remember to get the correct breakers to match the type of panel you have. You usually can't return breakers so make sure you check first.
Good video, one thing I would add is when you're using stranded wire, you should tighten set screw, then a few minutes later you should retighten as they will settle and be too loose if not retightened😎
What do you do in the event that the stranded wire wants to squeeze or spill out from around the set screw? Would I need to get solid wire in that case, and would it also want to travel away from the screw head when tightening?
I watched this because I needed to understand what would be required if I were to call someone to install an outlet for an electric dryer and because I don’t to be a complete idiot about any aspect of my home. While I probably won’t tackle the project myself, thank you for putting this out, I learned a lot!
This is the first install I can’t complain about. Just can’t go with out saying, You were awful cozy with the screwdriver and probes in that panel. Treat electrical like you treat a gun. “It’s always hot.” Remember, your sending this video to show how easy it is. A novice needs to be reminded not to get complacent. Electrical is easy and safe if you’re cautious.
he was ok except he said it was ok to use a 30 amp 220 outlet served by a 20 amp circuit which is incorrect cause the outlet will draw as much as 30 amp if there waas a fault so max outlet should be a 220 20 amp outlet if it is a 30 amp he needs to use a 30 amp 220 breaker and a 30 amp gauge wire also all metal boxes need to add ground pigtail to each splice box with green screws and straps are needed on conduit in required distances
Yup. the only point I'd make is, try and stay consistent in red/black handedness. If you are running a bunch of outlets in the shop, it makes it easier to have a pattern and mark it on the panel. The shop I worked in had a huge amount of power, and 220VAC outlets in every lab room. Some rooms had 3-4 outlets and the machine shop had tons of drops. RedTop at the breakers, RedRightSide referenced off ground in all outlets.
@@davidicousgregorian I was curious about the wire he was using because it looked kind of thin. How do you determine the gauge of wire and the proper amp for the breaker.
@@Z28PAPI sorry it took so long but the answer is based on amperage limits easy way is if it is 15 amp its limit is 1500 watts if its 20 amp limit is 2000 watts 30 amp is 3000 watts and so on and 14 gauge limit is 1400 plus 25 percent so 15 amp etc. 15 amp is no more than 14 g wire 20 amp is no more no less than 12 guage 30 amp is 10 guage and 40 amp is usually not used but a 50 amp is a 6 guage and 60 amp is needing a 2 guage 14-gauge wire 15 amps
12-gauge wire 20 amps 10-gauge wire 30 amps 8-gauge wire 40 amps 6-gauge wire 55 amps 4-gauge wire 70 amps 3-gauge wire 85 amps 2-gauge wire 95 amps Wire Use Rated Ampacity Wire Gauge Low-voltage lighting and lamp cords 10 amps 18-gauge Extension cords (light-duty) 13 amps 16-gauge Light fixtures, lamps, lighting circuits 15 amps 14-gauge Kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor receptacles (outlets); 120-volt air conditioners 20 amps 12-gauge Electric clothes dryers, 240-volt window air conditioners, electric water heaters 30 amps 10-gauge Cooktops and ranges 40-50 amps 6-gauge Electric furnaces, large electric heaters (not furnace switch that is 15amp 14 guage ) 60 amps 4-gauge your welcome hope this helps also see this for more info www.thespruce.com/matching-wire-size-to-circuit-amperage-1152865
If you connect between two legs of a three phase panel, you get 208, not 220. You didn’t measure at the final receptacle. If you connect between two legs of a single-phase (residential) panel, you get 240--not 220.
The licensing scam always got laughs from me while working as an electrician and I loved the looks on home owner's faces when I explained it to them. A competitor advertised he was licensed. I told people to ask to be sure and ask him where that license was from because there was no licensing agency or requirement in the rural area where we were.
My only suggestion would be to use a breaker box lock or at least a zip tie to lock that box shut in addition to putting a note on it. Lock-out tag-out for the win! Of course for the home user it generally isn't a problem. BTW, I love your videos!
With my family, I'd still use the lock-out tag-out at home. Just my luck the sign falls off and someone thinks the whole breaker box blew and just turns it on.
If it's 3 phase, It's really 208, although 220V appliances won't have any problem running on 208V. The wye configuration (three phases and a center-tapped neutral) gives you 120 ph-g and 208 ph-ph. Unless you have single-phase service at the panel, you won't get 240V across the two hot wires without a transformer.
Was looking for this comment. Hopefully more people are informed about this. 👍 We all should really stop using the term 220v. It is an old nominal voltage way back. The standard now is sph 120/240, 3ph 120/208 or a delta 240 I believe.
208 and 240 volt systems are kinda fun to deal with. 3 phase will be 120/208. Single phase will be 120/240. There really isn't 220 but people say that all the time. So when I was wiring schools that had wood shops I noticed tha t all the motors like on the lathes, table saws, jointer-planers, jig saw, band saw, etc were all rated for 200 volts instead of 208. Well mind you, I a school the electrical panel could be way down the hall a hundred feet or so. Engineers take this into account when specifying the equipment. So they spec 200 volt motors. So for fun I measured the voltage at the receptacle without the equipment running. It was 208 volts. But when the saw was turned on and cutting wood the voltage dropped to 200 volts. Perfect! So three things you always have to consider. The amperage draw of the equipment, the length of the wire from the source, and the size of the wire. All my circuits I installed had to be a number 10awg on a 20 amp breaker, which is legal, just to make up for the voltage drop. And of course you aren't supposed to load a 20 amp circuit to 20 amps. You are limited to 80% or 16 amps. So on runs less than 100 ft I could drop down in size to 12awg and not be out of spec on voltage drop. So most equipment will work at the applied voltage of 120 volts + or - 5% with no problem. So the range is 114 volts to 126 volts. Motors will burn up on lower voltage easier than on the higher voltage. Measure the voltage at your motor when it's under load and try to stay in this range.
For those that want to try their own electrical work but want someone to check what they do, you could always try to get a permit and inspection from your local building office. Just call ahead and talk with someone about what work you should accomplish for rough-in vs final inspection. They are usually very friendly to homeowners.
In my area of the US, if you call the inspector for advice they will shut your job down for not being a licensed electrician! Never call the inspector or building permit office asking questions, look it up online. My advantage to getting around this is that my best friend of 20 years IS the electrical inspector!
Man I know this is old, but cities are not friendly to home owners. Not electrical but they told my friend he needs to have x% of green space on his property so they wouldn't let him build his deck he wanted. All the water from the alley would pool in his yard and he's got dogs. It's a mudfest. They didn't care if it was only 3% off if it wasn't "correct" they'd make him remove it. Of course he could apply for an exemption for 750 bucks and they could still say no. No refund. Pulling permits for your own stuff is ridiculous
The inspector shouldn’t shut your job down you are the home owner. Pulling a permit is helpful god forbid you ever need to file a house insurance claim. Insurance companies will deny claims if permits weren’t pulled and it was the result of your work.
Sure its easy if you have a half empty panel mounted ON the wall and not recessed. Every one I ever want to add 220 to is recessed into the wall and has no room to add a circuit to. I have to end up tearing up the wall and installing a sub panel.
Why do people mention 110v and 220v. When I hear that I think.... 🤔 that's not right, you have a voltage drop somewhere. 😅 I guess old minds can't let go of the past. 🤫
But FIRST of all; check with your insurance company!! Just in case they don't pay if it all burns down because of a tiny and simple mistake, and you can't prove a certified electrician did the electrical work! Knowing what needs to be done, from videos like this, you can buy all the materials upfront and lower the cost of a certified electrician. And remember to save the paperwork from him/her!! That piece of paper can be worth many thousands of dollars!! Electrical failure is one of the most common reasons for buildings burned to the ground! Btw: Do you have smoke detectors in your home, and remember to check the batteries every year? They are cheap and they save a lot of lives each year!! (y)
Couple of things I would add to this, as installing a breaker is about as easy as it gets (this coming from a DIYer): 1) You need to know the amperage required for the item you plan on using, buy the correct gauge wire to handle that amperage as well as the correct outlet. The breaker cannot handle MORE amps than the wire and outlet. You can always use larger wire and/or outlet than required. 2) When buying the electrical box for the outlet do yourself a favor and get one larger (physically) than you need. While you CAN get a single gang box, it is a major PITA to try to bend and hook up 8 gauge wire in those things, (use 8 ga for 50 amp).
Jason:. He's right. 240V Delta will have 208 to ground on the high leg and 120 to ground on the other two. If there isn't a wild leg, there will be 208 between phases and 120 to ground on all three.
@@vladimirpolak5203 I don't think you know what you're talking about. The US and Canada share the same power grid, with the same voltages and frequencies. I find it hard to believe Canada doesn't use delta and wye transformer connections, the same as America. Your talk about current transformers has nothing to do with how the utility transformers are wired. Delta is one way, which uses two transformers(two phases of the distribution grid) and delivers 120-240 with a 208V high leg. Wye is another, which uses three transformers(all three phases) and delivers 120-208 evenly. Please understand what you're saying before you comment further. Thanks.
We did something similar when doing the reno on my dad's home, but didn't do the final hookups. We ran all the romex, hooked up the outlets, etc etc etc. Had an electrician come in to do an inspection and hook it up to the breaker box. Middle ground I guess.
Hi..my minisplit 220v mirage evaporador It dont turn on.. outlet on one entrance reads 127v and on the other entrance reads... 44v It dont read 220v I checked the thermomagnetics and a wire was off the terminals or thermomagnetics I checked with a multimeter and it reads 44v where should Iconnect it to...so I can use air conditioning???
The voltage for that 3ph panel is most likely 208volts, which is A,B & C phases to the neutral is 120 volt but if you showed across phases it would show 208volt. Also, it would be better to install the twist lock plug directly on the cord and not use the adapter. Great job though.
All round quite good work and reasonable testing. In Australia, the work you completely likely would be marked as defective for a couple of reasons (I have no idea what the laws and standards are in the US, please don’t hurt me!) 1) excessive copper exposed near terminating screws on outlets. Simple thing to fix, shorten the length of copper that is being fixed to the outlet, partly for safety and partly for the perfectionist in me. 2) Wire size. Wiring for fixed electrical outlets in Australia should be wired in no less than 2.5 square millimetres (10Ga). Rated to carry over 20A in conduit. 3) (testing) I personally check continuity from earth to earth on each outlet and make sure all is good. A proper test device will provide you with conductor impedance too and make sure there are no issues with the cabling. Other than those, excellent job! Again, i don’t know the legalities of unlicensed electrical work in the US/Canada but in australia it is an offence to undertake electrical work without the proper license or permit. Here we have very strict standards that protect us from electric shock and dodgy work completed by under qualified persons. Another difference is the lack of RCD protection on power circuits (GFCI). In Australia it is mandatory to fit RCD protection to all power and lighting circuits, and these days it must be fitted to almost all other circuits too. (Air con, hot water systems, electric stoves/ovens etc.)
Julian Curmi thanks for the info. I’m no electrician but am always interested in learning. What is the necessity of GFCI outlets if your system is properly grounded and it’s not a wet scenario? Also, would something like a welder constantly trip the GFCI? Thanks
In the US, fixed electrical outlets are most often wired, in residential settings, as either 14Ga (for 15 amp breakers) or 12Ga (for 20 amp breakers). This is regardless of whether it’s 120V or 240V. 10Ga is used for 30A circuits, which you generally will not find except for 240V circuits for special purposes (e.g. dryer, oven, shop tools, etc.). No one here would use 10Ga for anything under 20A and under except (maybe?) in a very long run.
@@davetom1743 No, he means lockout. It's so someone doesn't come along later, while you may be away from the panel, and turn breaker back on. www.bradyid.com/en-us/category/Fuse-Lockouts-and-Blockouts/200050512?cid=ppc_12811_bid&camp=ppc-us-Nonbrand-google.com-Search-Lockout-Breaker_Lockout-breaker%20lockout&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2IrmBRCJARIsAJZDdxDIcA987n5Dfu3G0ukkSUVPKRE3YqGdC3Zeq1qPe8NaEyghDqwlP14aAlgbEALw_wcB
Great job, my only advice is to be consistent and call it 240 volts like it is. If each leg is 120 volts, then you are getting 240 volts when using two legs. With single phase it is linear, 120 + 120 = 240. It just makes you sound more knowledgeable when using proper terminology.
Last summer, after getting estimates from three local electricians on adding a single 220 outlet to run my tablesaw, I decided to save $400 and do it myself (I also made my own wire just like you showed on IG for your new Invicta Jointer); it was a snap. I would, however, mention that one thing I was hoping you would go over-or at least mention-is that the conduit you run will determine the number of wires for a given gauge that can be run safely. In my case I had to run a thicker gauge due to the amps the saw required and that changed the conduit size I used. But thank you for unabashedly posting this video, it really is as easy as you showed.
regarding individual grounding….since conduit, receptacles, outlets all have metal does that tie all in as grounded since they originate at panel ground??
Very clear and concise. I know the point was not to go over code , but I guess it would have been worth mentioning or partially explaining that you should make sure that your panel can handle another 220v breaker before going through all that work. Especially those who don’t have a dedicated shop and run off of a single whole house panel!
I have a old Lincoln welder and I have a few projects that need some welding on and this was the information I needed thank you my buddy is an electrician and I’ll have him help me with it👍🏼
Your phase to phase voltage is 208 because your working with three phase panel. Some equipment may not like 208 and will require a boost transformer to raise the voltage to 240 volts.
How true! Because so much stuff is made in China. I had a compressor motor from China with a name plate of 230 v 1phase. The shop only had 208 3 phase. What to do? If I connected to the 208 3 phase the voltage would be too low and under load the compressor could burn up. This compressor was single phase, therefore requiring only 2 of the 3 power legs. So I dif some calculations and got some transformer catalogs and found a buck boost single phase transformer that I used to boost the 208 v to 240 v. Although 240 is higher than the motor name plate of 230 volt it is less than a 10,% increase. Most motors will run at plus or minus 1O%. Going the other way and subtracting 10% from the nameplate of 230v equals 207v. Could burn up. Funny thing though. When I wired in the buck boost xfmr and started motor the voltage at the motor under load was 233v. Perfect! So pay attention to those name plate ratings specifically on crap from China.
It is actually a 120/208 3ø Y system on the panel he is working in. Not bad advice. You should have tested between the phases to confirm the voltage for the equipment you are powering.
I think what Robert Post it's saying is that even though the individual phases are 120 to ground/neutral, there's only 208 volts between the legs (even though Jonathon was talking about wiring a 240 volt receptacle). I know with my 240v single phase welder, I have to change an internal connection to make it compatible with 208v (per the manual, to achieve its rated output). I've seen motors explicitly rated for 208, and I've seen them with no mention. Point is, for the same power - 208 requires more amps, and running it under-voltage will decrease the life of the equipment (maybe less important for a motor, but any control electronics/computers will NOT like being used continually in an under-voltage state). And Jonathon did not show or mention this consideration even though he did touch on the fact that his setup is 3 phase. Anyway, good job pointing that out. I've recently been trying to wrap my head around 3 phase as dad's shop has added some 3 phase equipment. It's not exactly a linear extension of single phase, lol. And trying to understand delta vs Y makes my brain hurt. 🤯😳🤣🤣
Super SLo This is very true. If where Delta then it would be true 240v with 120v to ground/neutral to say A phase and C phase and 1.732 x 120v or about 208v to ground on the B phase or high leg. I always encourage the customer to get a compressor or similar appliance 3ø to get the best efficiency from the appliance and use the highest voltage that they have available(480/277)(208/120)(240/120) all 3ø
Ok so I have a piece of equip says 220V/3 Phase and panel i tested phase to phase 240v but then phase to neutral I get A/120 B/120 C208 how do I connect my device 3wires hot n ground or do I connect 2wires n ground??? I not understanding how u get 240 2wires hot or 240 3wires hot n still have 240V either or??
I have been a master electrician many years.over 40.please never encourage unqualified persons to perform electrical work.it is not worth killing yourself or burning your house or shop down or risking serious possibly permanent injury to save a little money.there is a reason there are codes.to protect lives and property.if you are not a qualified electrician you are risking your life,health,and property.i know of many incidents where people have died or seriously injured themselves or started electrical fires.you are a fine woodworker but to encourage anyone to perform electrical work themselves is reckless.you said it yourself right at the beginning.stupid thing to do.should have listened to yourself.
I agree completely. I spent some time as a commercial electrician working under an ME. Electricity is unforgiving even to the highly skilled. Jonathan's math is poor, 2 x 120v = 240v.
I will write some safety stuff being a sparky. First, close the panel cover unless you are testing for voltage, and do not turn on breakers without it. Second, make sure the interrupting rating is high enough. That 10kA rating is the minimum for breakers. Depending on the upstream transformer, if you have a short circuit of ground fault, you could blow the breakers apart and cause an arc flash. Also, turn off the panel when putting the cover back on. Second, always ground every box with a ground screw hole that will have an outlet. Otherwise only the setscrews in the connectors and lock rings are acting as your continuity to ground. They burn out a lot quicker than the two paths that adding a ground tail will provide. Lastly, if there is anything like a welding outlet or an outlet for a large motor, add a fusible disconnect and size the breakers to proper code requirements for motors. It will save you from nuisance trips of the breakers from inrush current, and it'll save your butt if you lock the rotor or melt one of the coils. Fuses can get 300kA interrupting ratings that will safely shut down a short circuit without dumping the main for the building.
Electrician gave him dislike already. I am electrician I gave him likes because it's easy job and big rip off. Thanks people like him and myself people can live better. Don't forget call and inspector and get the paperwork with good check mark. That mean in in code legal. And save money help others too.
That's 3-phase, so likely 208v between phases. Even though your phases are each 120v to ground, they don't add the same way they do in a residential split-phase system. They are 120 degrees apart in phase, so they are 120v times the square root of three apart, or about 208v. You have wired up 208 outlets.
I don't know what's true for your space, but I've been told that my insurance company won't cover fire damage if they find out that unlicensed electrical work has been done to my house. For that reason alone I'd rather pay to have someone legit to do the work. But I do appreciate your video, I like to have a rough idea of what tradespeople do so I can talk to them without feeling like an idget.
Most "electricians" are not licensed they work under one who is and probably won't ever step foot on a job site. I work for a special systems contractor as subs for electrical contractors for all electronics in comercial buildings. The only time the licensed person is on site is during production meetings. Just a personal observation.
Not sure where you live or who "told" you that your insurance company won't cover you but I've built 2 houses I've lived in and wired both. I did everything to code and had them inspected. My insurance company had no issues covering me. The key is to get the permit and get it inspected.
@See the Light That would render you insurance less. There is not one insurance company that will cover you if you did the electrical yourself, without a permit and a fire started destroying your home due to unqualified installation according to code.
I would have to say that since all legs to ground are 120 volts it’s a wye connection, because if it were a delta the b leg to ground would be 208, and with that said since it is 3 phase power each phase to ground via black to ground, red to ground, and blue to ground is 120 volts, but from phase to phase via black to red, black to blue, or red to blue you most certainly have 208 volts instead of 240 because it adds up vectorially because of the 120 degree phase shift of each leg. Because single phase for normal residential power comes from one leg on the power line and stepped down which I why you only have two lines in residential neighborhoods, a hot leg and a grounded neutral; where as where three phases are used for three phase power like commercial, and industrial installs which is what I work with has all three phases and a grounded neutral and you will have three different single phase transformers tied together for you stepped down 3 phase power which is 277/480 (brown, orange, yellow, grey) wye connection, 480 (brown, orange, yellow) delta, 120/208 (black, red, blue, white) wye connection, and there is a 120/240 volt center tapped delta which is where the high leg comes in where the b phase had to be marked orange. So two of the phases would be 120 volts to ground and the other would be 208, but you would be able to get 240 out of two phases. In three phase power each leg is 120 degrees out of phase to even the power throughout the three phases. And then of course your normal residential 120/240 volts or split phase as it is called sometimes where it takes one phase and splits it into to voltages which is why you see one transformer at each house. In a single transformer the power is 180 degrees out of phase to even it out since its two phases instead of three it is even. So this is why you couldn’t possibly have 240 volts on that receptacle. It would be 208 because of the phase shift of three phase. Just a bit of info thrown your way. Take your multimeter and check it from phase to phase (hot to hot) and see what the voltage is. Most motors have a 10% variation plus or minus it’s rated voltage either 115 volts or 230 volts to withstand our nominal voltage which comes in at 240 volts or 120 volts. In your case the your motor is rated at 230 volts so 10% of that is 23 volts plus or minus from the 230 volts, so on the low end 207 volts it will run at which your voltage is 208 so your motor will run, but the torque of the motor will be reduced some around 20% or so. But your multimeter will tell the voltage though.
Taylor Yeah, it’s in the ugly’s book as a high leg marker also. Not sure why and never saw it done at least here in Florida, but I have heard of it though.
@@KevinCoop1 220V WAS the mains voltage in Germany until 1986 in West-Germany and 1990 in East-Germany. Since then it is 230V with a tolerance of +/-10%, meaning that appliances rated for 230V must work in the range between 207 and 253V. And the difference is that the 230V are against ground, the 208 and 240V are between the lines on the american system. Here you'll get 400V between the lines. In a three-phase system the voltage between the lines is the voltage of a single line (measured against ground or neutral) multiplied with the squareroot of 3. The nice thing in a three-phase system is that you don't require a big fat capacitor to run a motor which will cost you round about 30% of the power and torque of the motor.
Pretty good job for non-electrician as far as the install. But on the explanation side, I just want to add for clarity that people shouldn’t think of it as you “running two 120s”. You ran two hot wires on different poles that give you a single phase 208V (nominal) circuit. Always think of things in terms of circuits. A hot wire by itself is just a voltage source looking for a return path. If that return path is a neutral, 120V. If that return path is a hot on a different pole, 208V.
Yeah it was a good video, but it’s wrong and dangerous. You wouldn’t let this guy do your dental work would you, but your happy to wire your own house wrong and risk burning your family one night or burning your house down and not even starting with the lack of insurance due to under code installation.
A great book on Home electrical work is Wiring Simplified by Fred Hart published by Park publishing. I ve been using it for over 40 yrs. A word about the code and permits - The electrical code is little bit different across the country and some Building and safety depths will require all work be done by a Lic electrian while others will allow some work to be done non licensed home owners but not big jobs the best thing to do is simply find out what they require. the thing to remember is that if you sell the House in the future and the buyer wants it inspected and the inspector sees something and he's bonded he might feel obligated to report it. and one last thing Will it give the insurance co a way out of a claim ? All thing.s considered your better off with a permit and fallowing the code.
I'm a electrician very good video but some of ur terminology pertaining to electrical apparatus little off but over well done n you did everything with extreme safety
@@OldSoulMillennial Depends on what you are wiring. Some do, some don't. You'll usually find new circuits do have a neutral, unless the equipment you're connecting doesn't require them. (Electric hot water heaters don't)
Really the only thing you missed is testing voltage between phases. On 3-phase systems this will typically be 208v rather than the 240v you'd find in residential split phase.
People are usually shocked when they find out that I'm not a very good electrician
Bahahahahaha
ba-dump!
You win, I'm going home😂😂😂
Levi Jeans heh, I see what you did there...
Levi Jeans lmao !!!
Good Vid! Well explained.
Love the 3 phase!
For me working with household electric made sense once I realized that the standard panel is 240 volts and that the 120v circuits are a special adaptation, not the other way around. It’s not immediately obvious because most circuits are 120v. 240v just connects across the two 120 legs. A 120v circuit connects one of the 120 legs to neutral, making it very similar to a center tap on a transformer used to get a lower voltage. This also requires that the loads be balanced across the two 120v legs. Example, most new kitchens have two 20 amp circuits, they are usually high demand and put on separate 120v legs. Similarly you’d try to balance the household lighting evenly.
For not being an electrician you have a great meter and made a good vid 👌🏼
Don't know much but you surely are a nice guys...
Fun to watch and easy to understand. Thanks for putting this together.
Nice lock out tag out!
Hahaha hand written counts!
until some clown switches the power on.
@@CHIC1957 That is what a steel toe capped boot is for...Once you find them ;-)
Great video brother! Electrical video dealing with the commercial aspect!
Non license electrician here. 26 years without one. I lived 26 years in this world. I would like to proudly say that I know how to install one.
You did a good job but code requires that each box has a separate ground wire regardless of metal pipe. And you need to do the wiggle and tighten on all terminals on plug and breakers. To make sure they are tight. Do it 3 times on each terminal.
THANK YOU VERY HELPFUL YOUR VIDEO, VERY CLEAR
I am NOT a licensed electrician, but I have done a lot of electrical work, electronics, automotive, carpentry, welding, plumbing AND video/audio work. DON'T quit your day job!
What type of drill bit did you use to drill thru the breaker box?
Perfect n simply well said n done, thanks
great video man
Thanks,saved me lots of money. did a 240 v for a dryer in the basement.then gave electrician $25 to take a look at it & he said it was perfect.😆😆😆
What model fluke is your tester?
Lol you've gotta at least give electroboom a shoutout if you're gonna him in a clip
I think it's worth pointing out that ElectroBoom actually does know what he's doing.
@@tech-kyle yes, I take a lot of university classes that correlate well with what he teaches, he's very smart
Wouldn’t 10 gauge wire be better than 12 gauge?
Only thing I’ll roast you on is that it’s 240v, not 220v.
120v + 120v = 240v.
Good video nonetheless
220... 221, Whatever it takes.
Dillon Robinson Try again! Single phase 120+120=240. Three phase 120+120=208. He is not doing 220 volts. It is 208
@@KevinCoop1 YUP!
After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans ruclips.net/user/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
I liked how you recommend the twist lock plug... and then don't twist it to lock it when you plugged it in. :)
I also noticed that but I wasn't going to comment
He needed some roasting fodder. It worked!
@@rickkeys2345 You still did, though
@@Engineer9736 Only took someone "six months" to point that out!
I'm a license electrician, you did everything right, with one exception, all metal boxes have to grounded, that's why each box has a ground screw. Over all you did a great job
Good catch
Ty for the info. I recently watched a video explaining the ground and why one should ground each box. It was a cartoon and showed the character becoming the pathway of least resistance. I know its basic for you electricians, but I didn't understand why each box needed to be grounded when there was already a ground in the panel. Again ty for the solid bit of LIFE SAVING input.
all the metal boxes are connected with metal conduit, so aren't they technically grounded already?
@@nodave77 it is, you should pull a ground wire thru conduit also, if connectors loosing up. You will lose your ground
@@nodave77 They are, but electrical current will take the path of least resistance, so to make sure it is lower resistance than through your body to ground, you should ground every box.
Easiest way to do electrical: become a drinking buddy of an electrician.
Hahahaha true!
Lol so true.
I took this advice, while it's easy to do electrical, it's not that easy on the liver.
@@JaredM990 man, can we drink.
u have to put a beer at every outlet box too...
You are brave my friend... Not for doing the electrical work, but for posting a video about it. LOL! Good work.
Hahaha thanks bud.
@@katzmosestools Yeah, I see the usefulness of a very academic video where an electrical engineering professor from a fine technical university describes all the functions and features of particular electrical items -- BUT THIS ISN'T THIS, AND THAT'S OK! This is a fine practical guide and I think it's very useful. Thanks for posting.
That's what I thought! The nuts on this guy, he's braver than me! The electricians of the world are RUTHLESS!
@@MatthewHolevinski Yes we are.
Matthew Holevinski Yes we are.
Licensed Electrician here, I think you did a great DIY vid man. I generally cringe at the DIY videos on youtube on this subject well, because everything they tell people to do or they do them self is oh so wrong. From the type of wire they use or how its ran or leaving it exposed/ code violations ect. But I actually thought you did/ explained everything just fine and in a way that about anyone can understand. Great job my friend!
Thanks bud! A lot of arm chair quarterback commenters in here
@@katzmosestools You did ask for comments.
Aside from the under sized ground in my opinion.. really think there should be a way back for each one. 120 doesn't leave me so earie but in this case...
ChromerSatanas what part of his demo were incorrect?
@@wansolve2036 hmm🤔 actually he did a good job. I don't know what I was thinking.
Its important to know how many amps your equipment requires and size the breaker, wires and outlets correctly. Good video!
I tried wiring something like that once but my x wouldn’t sit in the chair.
LMFAO
Always remember to hit your x in the head with a baseball bat in the head first 🤣
Man do the guy a break.... But that was really fucken funny
🤣🤣
ALWAYS make sure the sponge is wet...
I noticed that several professional electricians have commented below. None seemed to notice the 208V issue so I will go into a little more detail. This panel is fed from a three phase power source. The source is connected in a Y configuration. I know this because you have three "hot"/phase conductors plus a neutral. The voltage between any two "hot" conductors will be 208V, not 240V as the video states. The voltage between any "hot"/phase conductor and neutral is indeed 120V as stated in the video. There is no 240V anywhere in this panel. If you will notice, the videographer never measures the voltage between any two "hot"/phase conductors. If he did he would measure 208V. For a three phase Y connected source the mathematical relationship between line to neutral and line to line voltage is a factor of √3. You multiply the line to neutral voltage by the √3 (1.73) to get line to line voltage. 120 X 1.73 = 208 (okay, you have figured out by now that I am an electrical engineer). If the videographer would measure the voltage between any two of the "hot"/phase conductors in the panel or measure the voltage between the two "hot"/phase conductors in the outlet connector he will find 208V. Sometimes this a non-issue and sometimes it is a problem depending on the equipment that is being powered. On another note, I am jealous that he has three phase power in his shop. This is almost never the case in a residential environment.
He stated the fact regarding 3 phase at the beginning of the video. And he declared the video is about normal 240v split phase (residential) wiring.. so it seems he covered that. ...while a 208v tutorial 'addendum' would have been great, I think it would have confused most people not versed in alternating current systems :-).
BTW: your explanation of 3 phase and how it is 208v across the poles is probably the best i have seen.. I recommend you pop that into quora.com.. there are a zillion wrong answers over there, on this description!! :-))
I was an electrical apprentice for 8 months approximately 30 years ago. Without any school training, just in the field. We did wire in a 'phase generator' for a sawmill the had only two phase (firm) power and three phase motors.
The other question I would have is if you use only two hots from a three phase supply, do the motors lose efficiency due to the phases not being 180° from each other? Aren't the phases pulsing at 120° then at 240° then nothing at 360°? So yes, still pulsing twice per cycle but not completely opposed to each other?
Thanks for sharing. Not slamming you man...just adding to your knowledge. It’s best to test your multi meter on a known live source before ensuring your panel is dead. You could very well have a broken lead or defective meter and it could display 0 volts.
Mr SunshinesThe professionals are telling you to quit being a dumbass.
You have two grounding conductors in that panel, the one you tested was on an insulated bar meaning it's isolated back to the main. This is usually done for more sensitive electronics. The grounding conductor you want is on the left side of the panel.
Does that matter? Can I use either one for installs like this? I’m genuinely curious!
@@ireviewapple4you in theory no it does not matter for person use. however you could cause a nightmare for the next person who owns the properly if they use something that is sensitive to stray voltage. especially if they don't know wheres its coming from something like this could be hard to track down
The non bonded neutral and ground bar is because it's a sub panel and the ground conducter is the called the grounding conductor and the neutral conductor is the grounded conductor
Not a bad job at all. And this coming from a guy with 40+ years in the trade.
On thing though! Do not use a 30 amp rated outlet with wire rated for 20 amps. Use the proper gauge wire for the appropriate application...
Also as a note........ This is a straight 208/240 volt setup.... NO NEUTRAL!
The wiring method for say, a clothes dryer would be slightly different...... As The dryer requires a neutral and a four wire outlet, Two hotlegs a neutral and a ground.......
Thanks bud!
To add to it, I'd get myself un Ugly book before doing anything to take the guess work out of things. Not all local codes match NEC but, for the most part they do but don't count on it. One fire marshal visit can shut your commercial enterprise down. I worked on the Alabama power remod in Celera, AL and just from a practical, Electrician standpoint, it's always better to ensure you're work is up to code (strapping from both the panel board & along your EMT/MC) because if anything ever goes sideways and an insurance company can prove it's not up to local code, guess what? They ain't payin'...usually, NEC will work though.
What 208/240? Please explain. I'm not an electrician but wanna understand
SimplyTHC 208volt here in canada is the 3phase power generally in commercial buildings. Where as 240 is both hots present on a single phase residential service.
@@izaacridler9234 thank you for the answer sir!
Nice video, here's a few comments from a professional sparky to help those who may not be familiar with 3Ø power. The system that you have there is a 3Ø, 4 wire, Wye system which is 208Y/120 volts. Your 2 pole receptacle is being fed with 208 volts, it is not 240 volts or 220 volts. The nominal 1Ø voltage system in the United States is 120/240. A 3Ø, 4 wire Delta system would be 240/208/120, see no 220 volts (it's an obsolete term).
You wanna become drinking buds I got some wiring I need done 🤣
Yeah he glossed over the 3 phase thing. Also his neutral will not actually be neutral due to the hots being 120 degrees (not 180 degrees) out of phase with each other. Does equipment mind that?
I was wondering the same thing. I think the bandsaw motor might not work as well as it should. But I'm really new at this.
Lol "Double-tap the dislike button" Genius.
Overall good install. Quick clarification that most houses in the US use 240 split phase, while the system shown was a 208 3 phase. 220 is rare in the US. This doesn’t affect much, and most >200V tools can handle all three, but hopefully this helps someone trying to figure out why their numbers don’t match.
My brain rolls over in my skull every time someone says 220 instead of 240 or 208.
@@user.A9 many HVAC companies state 208/230...
So will a 220v machine operate correctly with a 208 3 phase supply ?
@@user.A9 Yep. Or when folks say 110 instead of 120.
Change is difficult for some people. It hasn't been 110/220 for almost 100 years.
In the early 1900s, the first power systems in the US were 110/220 volts.
In the 1930s, the voltage increased to 115/230 volts due to increasing power demands.
In the 1960s, the voltage changed again to 120/240 volts.
In 1967, the voltage became standardized as 120/240 volts.
I wonder if folks will stay say 110/220 in another 100 years.
@@JeanPierreWhiteMy grandpa called it 110 and 220 when I was a kid and it stuck. I know what the real numbers are but the 10's and 20's just sound so right in my head.
It is definitely easy and if you have a shop where the conduit is exposed, do it yourself and save a bundle. Just remember to get the correct breakers to match the type of panel you have. You usually can't return breakers so make sure you check first.
One thing I liked about your video is that you demonstrated that the bus bar is HOT!!!!
Good video, one thing I would add is when you're using stranded wire, you should tighten set screw, then a few minutes later you should retighten as they will settle and be too loose if not retightened😎
Does this apply to wire nut twist connectors as well?
Wire ferrules on stranded wire might be a good practice.
What do you do in the event that the stranded wire wants to squeeze or spill out from around the set screw? Would I need to get solid wire in that case, and would it also want to travel away from the screw head when tightening?
I like to put the wire under the other side of the screw so that when you tighten to screw on the breaker it pulls it in. #notaprotip
Doesn’t matter when it’s under a saddle clamp.
The wire clamp plate on a breaker is square so it doesn't rotate.
I watched this because I needed to understand what would be required if I were to call someone to install an outlet for an electric dryer and because I don’t to be a complete idiot about any aspect of my home. While I probably won’t tackle the project myself, thank you for putting this out, I learned a lot!
This is the first install I can’t complain about.
Just can’t go with out saying,
You were awful cozy with the screwdriver and probes in that panel.
Treat electrical like you treat a gun.
“It’s always hot.”
Remember, your sending this video to show how easy it is.
A novice needs to be reminded not to get complacent.
Electrical is easy and safe if you’re cautious.
I’m a union electrician and you did just great dude. Keep it up.
he was ok except he said it was ok to use a 30 amp 220 outlet served by a 20 amp circuit which is incorrect cause the outlet will draw as much as 30 amp if there waas a fault so max outlet should be a 220 20 amp outlet if it is a 30 amp he needs to use a 30 amp 220 breaker and a 30 amp gauge wire also all metal boxes need to add ground pigtail to each splice box with green screws and straps are needed on conduit in required distances
Yup. the only point I'd make is, try and stay consistent in red/black handedness. If you are running a bunch of outlets in the shop, it makes it easier to have a pattern and mark it on the panel. The shop I worked in had a huge amount of power, and 220VAC outlets in every lab room. Some rooms had 3-4 outlets and the machine shop had tons of drops. RedTop at the breakers, RedRightSide referenced off ground in all outlets.
@@davidicousgregorian I was curious about the wire he was using because it looked kind of thin. How do you determine the gauge of wire and the proper amp for the breaker.
@@Z28PAPI sorry it took so long but the answer is based on amperage limits easy way is if it is 15 amp its limit is 1500 watts if its 20 amp limit is 2000 watts 30 amp is 3000 watts and so on and 14 gauge limit is 1400 plus 25 percent so 15 amp etc. 15 amp is no more than 14 g wire 20 amp is no more no less than 12 guage 30 amp is 10 guage and 40 amp is usually not used but a 50 amp is a 6 guage and 60 amp is needing a 2 guage
14-gauge wire 15 amps
12-gauge wire 20 amps
10-gauge wire 30 amps
8-gauge wire 40 amps
6-gauge wire 55 amps
4-gauge wire 70 amps
3-gauge wire 85 amps
2-gauge wire 95 amps
Wire Use Rated Ampacity Wire Gauge
Low-voltage lighting and lamp cords 10 amps 18-gauge
Extension cords (light-duty) 13 amps 16-gauge
Light fixtures, lamps, lighting circuits 15 amps 14-gauge
Kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor receptacles (outlets); 120-volt air conditioners 20 amps 12-gauge
Electric clothes dryers, 240-volt window air conditioners, electric water heaters 30 amps 10-gauge
Cooktops and ranges 40-50 amps 6-gauge
Electric furnaces, large electric heaters (not furnace switch that is 15amp 14 guage ) 60 amps 4-gauge
your welcome hope this helps also see this for more info www.thespruce.com/matching-wire-size-to-circuit-amperage-1152865
@@davidicousgregorian best RUclips reply I've ever received
You had me at “I’m going to do the dumbest thing you can do”
Jimmy Kimmel anyone? Sorry man! had to make that comment, Thanks for sharing your knowledge, really appreciate you.
Jimmy Kimmel is a jerk. This guy is good!
If you connect between two legs of a three phase panel, you get 208, not 220. You didn’t measure at the final receptacle. If you connect between two legs of a single-phase (residential) panel, you get 240--not 220.
The licensing scam always got laughs from me while working as an electrician and I loved the looks on home owner's faces when I explained it to them. A competitor advertised he was licensed. I told people to ask to be sure and ask him where that license was from because there was no licensing agency or requirement in the rural area where we were.
You know it gonna be a good video when ElctroBOOM gets a mention
My only suggestion would be to use a breaker box lock or at least a zip tie to lock that box shut in addition to putting a note on it. Lock-out tag-out for the win! Of course for the home user it generally isn't a problem. BTW, I love your videos!
With my family, I'd still use the lock-out tag-out at home. Just my luck the sign falls off and someone thinks the whole breaker box blew and just turns it on.
If it's 3 phase, It's really 208, although 220V appliances won't have any problem running on 208V. The wye configuration (three phases and a center-tapped neutral) gives you 120 ph-g and 208 ph-ph. Unless you have single-phase service at the panel, you won't get 240V across the two hot wires without a transformer.
Was looking for this comment. Hopefully more people are informed about this. 👍 We all should really stop using the term 220v. It is an old nominal voltage way back. The standard now is sph 120/240, 3ph 120/208 or a delta 240 I believe.
208 and 240 volt systems are kinda fun to deal with. 3 phase will be 120/208. Single phase will be 120/240. There really isn't 220 but people say that all the time. So when I was wiring schools that had wood shops I noticed tha
t all the motors like on the lathes, table saws, jointer-planers, jig saw, band saw, etc were all rated for 200 volts instead of 208. Well mind you, I a school the electrical panel could be way down the hall a hundred feet or so. Engineers take this into account when specifying the equipment. So they spec 200 volt motors. So for fun I measured the voltage at the receptacle without the equipment running. It was 208 volts. But when the saw was turned on and cutting wood the voltage dropped to 200 volts. Perfect! So three things you always have to consider. The amperage draw of the equipment, the length of the wire from the source, and the size of the wire. All my circuits I installed had to be a number 10awg on a 20 amp breaker, which is legal, just to make up for the voltage drop. And of course you aren't supposed to load a 20 amp circuit to 20 amps. You are limited to 80% or 16 amps. So on runs less than 100 ft I could drop down in size to 12awg and not be out of spec on voltage drop. So most equipment will work at the applied voltage of 120 volts + or - 5% with no problem. So the range is 114 volts to 126 volts. Motors will burn up on lower voltage easier than on the higher voltage. Measure the voltage at your motor when it's under load and try to stay in this range.
For those that want to try their own electrical work but want someone to check what they do, you could always try to get a permit and inspection from your local building office. Just call ahead and talk with someone about what work you should accomplish for rough-in vs final inspection. They are usually very friendly to homeowners.
Sarit Sotangkur or just post it on RUclips... they will be sure to correct you
That works for homes, but in most areas you need an electrical contractor to pull the permit in a commercial setting.
In my area of the US, if you call the inspector for advice they will shut your job down for not being a licensed electrician! Never call the inspector or building permit office asking questions, look it up online. My advantage to getting around this is that my best friend of 20 years IS the electrical inspector!
Man I know this is old, but cities are not friendly to home owners. Not electrical but they told my friend he needs to have x% of green space on his property so they wouldn't let him build his deck he wanted. All the water from the alley would pool in his yard and he's got dogs. It's a mudfest. They didn't care if it was only 3% off if it wasn't "correct" they'd make him remove it. Of course he could apply for an exemption for 750 bucks and they could still say no. No refund. Pulling permits for your own stuff is ridiculous
The inspector shouldn’t shut your job down you are the home owner. Pulling a permit is helpful god forbid you ever need to file a house insurance claim. Insurance companies will deny claims if permits weren’t pulled and it was the result of your work.
Sure its easy if you have a half empty panel mounted ON the wall and not recessed. Every one I ever want to add 220 to is recessed into the wall and has no room to add a circuit to. I have to end up tearing up the wall and installing a sub panel.
Did you run the sub panel off a breaker or directly?
Why do people mention 110v and 220v. When I hear that I think.... 🤔 that's not right, you have a voltage drop somewhere. 😅 I guess old minds can't let go of the past. 🤫
But FIRST of all; check with your insurance company!!
Just in case they don't pay if it all burns down because of a tiny and simple mistake, and you can't prove a certified electrician did the electrical work!
Knowing what needs to be done, from videos like this, you can buy all the materials upfront and lower the cost of a certified electrician. And remember to save the paperwork from him/her!!
That piece of paper can be worth many thousands of dollars!!
Electrical failure is one of the most common reasons for buildings burned to the ground!
Btw: Do you have smoke detectors in your home, and remember to check the batteries every year?
They are cheap and they save a lot of lives each year!! (y)
Couple of things I would add to this, as installing a breaker is about as easy as it gets (this coming from a DIYer):
1) You need to know the amperage required for the item you plan on using, buy the correct gauge wire to handle that amperage as well as the correct outlet. The breaker cannot handle MORE amps than the wire and outlet. You can always use larger wire and/or outlet than required.
2) When buying the electrical box for the outlet do yourself a favor and get one larger (physically) than you need. While you CAN get a single gang box, it is a major PITA to try to bend and hook up 8 gauge wire in those things, (use 8 ga for 50 amp).
6amg for 50 no?
My guess is you have 120/208 if it was 120/240 you’d have a Delta system and you have a high leg on the “B” phase of like 180 Volts to ground
Actually delta is a current transformer, wye is for voltage, therefore voltage doesn't change on delta, current changes on delta.
Jason:. He's right. 240V Delta will have 208 to ground on the high leg and 120 to ground on the other two. If there isn't a wild leg, there will be 208 between phases and 120 to ground on all three.
Jason Polak What are you talking about ???
@@chkohl1919 wow explains everything, must be a florida rural electrical thing, not a legal way to hook up in canada.
@@vladimirpolak5203 I don't think you know what you're talking about. The US and Canada share the same power grid, with the same voltages and frequencies. I find it hard to believe Canada doesn't use delta and wye transformer connections, the same as America. Your talk about current transformers has nothing to do with how the utility transformers are wired. Delta is one way, which uses two transformers(two phases of the distribution grid) and delivers 120-240 with a 208V high leg. Wye is another, which uses three transformers(all three phases) and delivers 120-208 evenly. Please understand what you're saying before you comment further. Thanks.
We did something similar when doing the reno on my dad's home, but didn't do the final hookups. We ran all the romex, hooked up the outlets, etc etc etc. Had an electrician come in to do an inspection and hook it up to the breaker box. Middle ground I guess.
yeah this is fairly common. the hard part is running the wire and the dangerous part is hooking to the braker.
You are lucky because many electricians will not continue work someone else has started.
It’s 240v, not 220v!! 🤦♂️. Also, it’s 120v, not 110v or 115v. If set up properly that is.
Hi..my minisplit 220v mirage evaporador It dont turn on.. outlet on one entrance reads 127v and on the other entrance reads... 44v It dont read 220v I checked the thermomagnetics and a wire was off the terminals or thermomagnetics I checked with a multimeter and it reads 44v where should Iconnect it to...so I can use air conditioning???
The voltage for that 3ph panel is most likely 208volts, which is A,B & C phases to the neutral is 120 volt but if you showed across phases it would show 208volt. Also, it would be better to install the twist lock plug directly on the cord and not use the adapter. Great job though.
All round quite good work and reasonable testing. In Australia, the work you completely likely would be marked as defective for a couple of reasons (I have no idea what the laws and standards are in the US, please don’t hurt me!)
1) excessive copper exposed near terminating screws on outlets.
Simple thing to fix, shorten the length of copper that is being fixed to the outlet, partly for safety and partly for the perfectionist in me.
2) Wire size. Wiring for fixed electrical outlets in Australia should be wired in no less than 2.5 square millimetres (10Ga). Rated to carry over 20A in conduit.
3) (testing) I personally check continuity from earth to earth on each outlet and make sure all is good. A proper test device will provide you with conductor impedance too and make sure there are no issues with the cabling.
Other than those, excellent job! Again, i don’t know the legalities of unlicensed electrical work in the US/Canada but in australia it is an offence to undertake electrical work without the proper license or permit. Here we have very strict standards that protect us from electric shock and dodgy work completed by under qualified persons. Another difference is the lack of RCD protection on power circuits (GFCI). In Australia it is mandatory to fit RCD protection to all power and lighting circuits, and these days it must be fitted to almost all other circuits too. (Air con, hot water systems, electric stoves/ovens etc.)
Julian Curmi thanks for the info. I’m no electrician but am always interested in learning. What is the necessity of GFCI outlets if your system is properly grounded and it’s not a wet scenario? Also, would something like a welder constantly trip the GFCI? Thanks
In the US, fixed electrical outlets are most often wired, in residential settings, as either 14Ga (for 15 amp breakers) or 12Ga (for 20 amp breakers). This is regardless of whether it’s 120V or 240V. 10Ga is used for 30A circuits, which you generally will not find except for 240V circuits for special purposes (e.g. dryer, oven, shop tools, etc.). No one here would use 10Ga for anything under 20A and under except (maybe?) in a very long run.
breaker lockout is a good investment only about 15 bucks for a safe job. Cheers.
You mean a lock?
@@davetom1743 No, he means lockout. It's so someone doesn't come along later, while you may be away from the panel, and turn breaker back on.
www.bradyid.com/en-us/category/Fuse-Lockouts-and-Blockouts/200050512?cid=ppc_12811_bid&camp=ppc-us-Nonbrand-google.com-Search-Lockout-Breaker_Lockout-breaker%20lockout&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2IrmBRCJARIsAJZDdxDIcA987n5Dfu3G0ukkSUVPKRE3YqGdC3Zeq1qPe8NaEyghDqwlP14aAlgbEALw_wcB
Agreed but I paid over 300 for a set lol
Nobody is gonna talk about him breaking off a metal tab with big ass metal pliers over hot exposed plugs? 🤦
Great job, my only advice is to be consistent and call it 240 volts like it is. If each leg is 120 volts, then you are getting 240 volts when using two legs. With single phase it is linear, 120 + 120 = 240. It just makes you sound more knowledgeable when using proper terminology.
Last summer, after getting estimates from three local electricians on adding a single 220 outlet to run my tablesaw, I decided to save $400 and do it myself (I also made my own wire just like you showed on IG for your new Invicta Jointer); it was a snap. I would, however, mention that one thing I was hoping you would go over-or at least mention-is that the conduit you run will determine the number of wires for a given gauge that can be run safely. In my case I had to run a thicker gauge due to the amps the saw required and that changed the conduit size I used. But thank you for unabashedly posting this video, it really is as easy as you showed.
I really appreciate it bud!
regarding individual grounding….since conduit, receptacles, outlets all have metal does that tie all in as grounded
since they originate at panel ground??
Easy!
Super
Can we just have some fun?
Check it
Interesting how RUclips connects Craftsman who would have otherwise never have known that person existed.
220 volts went out 80 years ago . 120 240 is the only volts that utility use . 120 legs add up to 240 volts
You don’t have to use 10g romex to run a 240 circuit? You used 12/2?
Very clear and concise. I know the point was not to go over code , but I guess it would have been worth mentioning or partially explaining that you should make sure that your panel can handle another 220v breaker before going through all that work. Especially those who don’t have a dedicated shop and run off of a single whole house panel!
Haha, loved that first clip of the guy touching a live wire.
Hahahaha
That is Electroboom here on YT, and he does it on purpose so you don't have to 😉
I have a old Lincoln welder and I have a few projects that need some welding on and this was the information I needed thank you my buddy is an electrician and I’ll have him help me with it👍🏼
I'm your expert electrician 25 years career recently retired from big government with 60,000 inspections under my belt
Would the piece of equipment work if you remove the ground?
Your phase to phase voltage is 208 because your working with three phase panel. Some equipment may not like 208 and will require a boost transformer to raise the voltage to 240 volts.
How true! Because so much stuff is made in China. I had a compressor motor from China with a name plate of 230 v 1phase. The shop only had 208 3 phase. What to do? If I connected to the 208 3 phase the voltage would be too low and under load the compressor could burn up. This compressor was single phase, therefore requiring only 2 of the 3 power legs. So I dif some calculations and got some transformer catalogs and found a buck boost single phase transformer that I used to boost the 208 v to 240 v. Although 240 is higher than the motor name plate of 230 volt it is less than a 10,% increase. Most motors will run at plus or minus 1O%. Going the other way and subtracting 10% from the nameplate of 230v equals 207v. Could burn up. Funny thing though. When I wired in the buck boost xfmr and started motor the voltage at the motor under load was 233v. Perfect! So pay attention to those name plate ratings specifically on crap from China.
I just wired a 240 v outlet for my shop heater ..
easy once you see how it’s done 👍..
It is actually a 120/208 3ø Y system on the panel he is working in. Not bad advice. You should have tested between the phases to confirm the voltage for the equipment you are powering.
I'm glad someone said it. It will work, but how long will his machines last with the increase in current draw?
He told you he tested the incoming voltage before he disconnected the panel.
I think what Robert Post it's saying is that even though the individual phases are 120 to ground/neutral, there's only 208 volts between the legs (even though Jonathon was talking about wiring a 240 volt receptacle). I know with my 240v single phase welder, I have to change an internal connection to make it compatible with 208v (per the manual, to achieve its rated output). I've seen motors explicitly rated for 208, and I've seen them with no mention. Point is, for the same power - 208 requires more amps, and running it under-voltage will decrease the life of the equipment (maybe less important for a motor, but any control electronics/computers will NOT like being used continually in an under-voltage state). And Jonathon did not show or mention this consideration even though he did touch on the fact that his setup is 3 phase.
Anyway, good job pointing that out. I've recently been trying to wrap my head around 3 phase as dad's shop has added some 3 phase equipment. It's not exactly a linear extension of single phase, lol. And trying to understand delta vs Y makes my brain hurt. 🤯😳🤣🤣
Super SLo This is very true. If where Delta then it would be true 240v with 120v to ground/neutral to say A phase and C phase and 1.732 x 120v or about 208v to ground on the B phase or high leg. I always encourage the customer to get a compressor or similar appliance 3ø to get the best efficiency from the appliance and use the highest voltage that they have available(480/277)(208/120)(240/120) all 3ø
Ok so I have a piece of equip says 220V/3 Phase and panel i tested phase to phase 240v but then phase to neutral I get A/120 B/120 C208 how do I connect my device 3wires hot n ground or do I connect 2wires n ground??? I not understanding how u get 240 2wires hot or 240 3wires hot n still have 240V either or??
You have to get permits first and call for inspections
I have been a master electrician many years.over 40.please never encourage unqualified persons to perform electrical work.it is not worth killing yourself or burning your house or shop down or risking serious possibly permanent injury to save a little money.there is a reason there are codes.to protect lives and property.if you are not a qualified electrician you are risking your life,health,and property.i know of many incidents where people have died or seriously injured themselves or started electrical fires.you are a fine woodworker but to encourage anyone to perform electrical work themselves is reckless.you said it yourself right at the beginning.stupid thing to do.should have listened to yourself.
I agree completely. I spent some time as a commercial electrician working under an ME. Electricity is unforgiving even to the highly skilled. Jonathan's math is poor, 2 x 120v = 240v.
I will write some safety stuff being a sparky. First, close the panel cover unless you are testing for voltage, and do not turn on breakers without it. Second, make sure the interrupting rating is high enough. That 10kA rating is the minimum for breakers. Depending on the upstream transformer, if you have a short circuit of ground fault, you could blow the breakers apart and cause an arc flash. Also, turn off the panel when putting the cover back on. Second, always ground every box with a ground screw hole that will have an outlet. Otherwise only the setscrews in the connectors and lock rings are acting as your continuity to ground. They burn out a lot quicker than the two paths that adding a ground tail will provide. Lastly, if there is anything like a welding outlet or an outlet for a large motor, add a fusible disconnect and size the breakers to proper code requirements for motors. It will save you from nuisance trips of the breakers from inrush current, and it'll save your butt if you lock the rotor or melt one of the coils. Fuses can get 300kA interrupting ratings that will safely shut down a short circuit without dumping the main for the building.
Boss - you should pin this one!
Electrician gave him dislike already.
I am electrician I gave him likes because it's easy job and big rip off.
Thanks people like him and myself people can live better.
Don't forget call and inspector and get the paperwork with good check mark. That mean in in code legal. And save money help others too.
Thank you, now I can Wire my 2 post Car Lift You confirmed what I planned to do .
You didn’t ground all of the 4-sq. Boxes 🥸
That's 3-phase, so likely 208v between phases. Even though your phases are each 120v to ground, they don't add the same way they do in a residential split-phase system. They are 120 degrees apart in phase, so they are 120v times the square root of three apart, or about 208v. You have wired up 208 outlets.
I don't know what's true for your space, but I've been told that my insurance company won't cover fire damage if they find out that unlicensed electrical work has been done to my house. For that reason alone I'd rather pay to have someone legit to do the work. But I do appreciate your video, I like to have a rough idea of what tradespeople do so I can talk to them without feeling like an idget.
In California at least you can do it as "owner builder" as long as it passes inspection
Most "electricians" are not licensed they work under one who is and probably won't ever step foot on a job site. I work for a special systems contractor as subs for electrical contractors for all electronics in comercial buildings. The only time the licensed person is on site is during production meetings. Just a personal observation.
Not sure where you live or who "told" you that your insurance company won't cover you but I've built 2 houses I've lived in and wired both. I did everything to code and had them inspected. My insurance company had no issues covering me. The key is to get the permit and get it inspected.
That is 100% true any state.
@See the Light That would render you insurance less. There is not one insurance company that will cover you if you did the electrical yourself, without a permit and a fire started destroying your home due to unqualified installation according to code.
I have no capacity to resist this video. This guy has potential. 240v is watt I really need.
He is actually installing 208 volts.
@@KevinCoop1 you’re resisting my pun.
I would have to say that since all legs to ground are 120 volts it’s a wye connection, because if it were a delta the b leg to ground would be 208, and with that said since it is 3 phase power each phase to ground via black to ground, red to ground, and blue to ground is 120 volts, but from phase to phase via black to red, black to blue, or red to blue you most certainly have 208 volts instead of 240 because it adds up vectorially because of the 120 degree phase shift of each leg. Because single phase for normal residential power comes from one leg on the power line and stepped down which I why you only have two lines in residential neighborhoods, a hot leg and a grounded neutral; where as where three phases are used for three phase power like commercial, and industrial installs which is what I work with has all three phases and a grounded neutral and you will have three different single phase transformers tied together for you stepped down 3 phase power which is 277/480 (brown, orange, yellow, grey) wye connection, 480 (brown, orange, yellow) delta, 120/208 (black, red, blue, white) wye connection, and there is a 120/240 volt center tapped delta which is where the high leg comes in where the b phase had to be marked orange. So two of the phases would be 120 volts to ground and the other would be 208, but you would be able to get 240 out of two phases. In three phase power each leg is 120 degrees out of phase to even the power throughout the three phases. And then of course your normal residential 120/240 volts or split phase as it is called sometimes where it takes one phase and splits it into to voltages which is why you see one transformer at each house. In a single transformer the power is 180 degrees out of phase to even it out since its two phases instead of three it is even. So this is why you couldn’t possibly have 240 volts on that receptacle. It would be 208 because of the phase shift of three phase. Just a bit of info thrown your way. Take your multimeter and check it from phase to phase (hot to hot) and see what the voltage is. Most motors have a 10% variation plus or minus it’s rated voltage either 115 volts or 230 volts to withstand our nominal voltage which comes in at 240 volts or 120 volts. In your case the your motor is rated at 230 volts so 10% of that is 23 volts plus or minus from the 230 volts, so on the low end 207 volts it will run at which your voltage is 208 so your motor will run, but the torque of the motor will be reduced some around 20% or so. But your multimeter will tell the voltage though.
Thanks for the knowledge bud!
Anytime bro.
If you're in San Francisco, CA the 208v high leg is marked with purple instead of orange. Not sure why, but that's what they do.
Taylor Yeah, it’s in the ugly’s book as a high leg marker also. Not sure why and never saw it done at least here in Florida, but I have heard of it though.
Great explanation. Thanks.
I wouldn't trust someone just because they have a license. There are still way too many grandfathered license holders.
"220, 221, whatever it takes."
120+120 = 240
Classic flick.
220v or as we germans say, everyday voltage
Spitzrockz except it wasn't 220 volts! It was 208 volts! So not the same as in Germany.
@@KevinCoop1 220V WAS the mains voltage in Germany until 1986 in West-Germany and 1990 in East-Germany. Since then it is 230V with a tolerance of +/-10%, meaning that appliances rated for 230V must work in the range between 207 and 253V. And the difference is that the 230V are against ground, the 208 and 240V are between the lines on the american system. Here you'll get 400V between the lines. In a three-phase system the voltage between the lines is the voltage of a single line (measured against ground or neutral) multiplied with the squareroot of 3.
The nice thing in a three-phase system is that you don't require a big fat capacitor to run a motor which will cost you round about 30% of the power and torque of the motor.
How many amps does a typical household 220/240V circuit carry in Germany?
@@MD-en3zm incoming cables can hold at least 60A, but main fuses at the average house in europe is 25A.
@Jusso Laukkanen - Wow, that’s not much power. My main breaker here in the US is 200A 240V. How can you do woodworking with a total of 25A / 240V?
How many people were thinking, were is neutral. Like if you thought the same thing.
Trump 2020
Exactly what I was looking for! Straightforward, common sense video with no extra “see how smart I am” baloney! Thanks!
I like the complete simple instruction. Some guy draw their videos out with a bunch of nonsense!
Just something I would add is to ground all boxes that have terminations or joints in them. That would be up to code and safer
Pretty good job for non-electrician as far as the install. But on the explanation side, I just want to add for clarity that people shouldn’t think of it as you “running two 120s”. You ran two hot wires on different poles that give you a single phase 208V (nominal) circuit. Always think of things in terms of circuits. A hot wire by itself is just a voltage source looking for a return path. If that return path is a neutral, 120V. If that return path is a hot on a different pole, 208V.
I love how he showed electroboom 🤣
Gotta love these comments from the RUclips “PROS” giving you 💩... you did a great job man and explained yourself perfectly.
Yeah it was a good video, but it’s wrong and dangerous. You wouldn’t let this guy do your dental work would you, but your happy to wire your own house wrong and risk burning your family one night or burning your house down and not even starting with the lack of insurance due to under code installation.
A great book on Home electrical work is Wiring Simplified by Fred Hart published by Park publishing. I ve been using it for over 40 yrs. A word about the code and permits - The electrical code is little bit different across the country and some Building and safety depths will require all work be done by a Lic electrian while others will allow some work to be done non licensed home owners but not big jobs the best thing to do is simply find out what they require. the thing to remember is that if you sell the House in the future and the buyer wants it inspected and the inspector sees something and he's bonded he might feel obligated to report it. and one last thing Will it give the insurance co a way out of a claim ? All thing.s considered your better off with a permit and fallowing the code.
I'm a electrician very good video but some of ur terminology pertaining to electrical apparatus little off but over well done n you did everything with extreme safety
Thank you bud!
Why is there no neutral wire in a 220v run?
@@OldSoulMillennial Depends on what you are wiring. Some do, some don't. You'll usually find new circuits do have a neutral, unless the equipment you're connecting doesn't require them. (Electric hot water heaters don't)
Jonathan: Well, your grounding and bonding is way off, but overall, the only change I would recommend is to use GFCI breakers.
@Ed O'Neill You sure about that? Ever use an electric oven or dryer?
You didn’t prove the meter was working before you tested it, meter may not have been working.
0:41 ElectroBoom LOL!!!
Really the only thing you missed is testing voltage between phases. On 3-phase systems this will typically be 208v rather than the 240v you'd find in residential split phase.