How to Run Permanent Temporary Power to a Shed
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- Опубликовано: 19 янв 2024
- In today's video I'm running electricity to my new shed! I'm gonna be wiring plugs, switches and lights and discussing how to set up a permanent power run, should you choose to do so. Cheers! Watch the entire series 👉🏼 / playlist list=PL34cQkzKfXWZjAohJEWQ4WD6LUXxH904u
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Do you need help with your renovation project? 👆🏼Hit the JOIN button to access the members only Discord
🔨Consult directly with Jeff about your project
🔨Crowdsource information on the best products and materials
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Once you've hit JOIN, go to the members tab to find the link to join the members only Discord 👇🏼
www.youtube.com/@HomeRenoVisionDIY/membership
I'm an older dude, and I don't have my dad around to answer these questions, so I'm pretty grateful there's someone out there teaching these things
@@MyChannel-wg8ml Why was it wrong to put electrical tape on the screws to avoid contact? I’m trying to learn a little bit of everything.
@@jhayrios5514 It's not wrong, it used to be standard practice.
I wouldn't recommend following anything this guy says.
Got a little emotional watching this. How could that be?
I'm relatively new to Jeff, but his personality reminds me of Rich, my father-figure when I was growing up. He was kind, smiled along as he could fix anything... explained everything to me as if I was smart enough to understand. He had some cool and funny sayings, "to boot".
He had such an easy going, optimistic attitude.
He passed long ago, at 50.
At 60 (dunno how I made it this far), throughout my life, everytime I'm working on something he's always watching over me. And when I get negative or feel I can't get something fixed, Rich is right there guiding me through it all, just like when I was a kid.
Rich was an Electrician at trade, but fixed everything... just like Jeff.
Very sincere thank you to both these men for helping us all out...
Everyone needs a Rich in their life. Mine was my Dad. He passed away 2 years ago yesterday. Happy to share what I have learned.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you for sharing. May he rest in peace, what a wonderful man.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY You Dad must have been very proud of you. He set a fine example. May he rest in Peace.
Those were the days. People loved what they did, and were not pressured to build a small city every year. My Grandfather build houses and was quiet, patient and kind. Memories are so good for the soul. Thanks for sharing yours, it made me smile too
Instant fanboy
Great video. Two comments:
1) instead of having the male plug hanging outside, you can purchase a generator plug inlet and mount it on the side of the shed.
2) the screw slots on the plates are vertical because dust is less likely to collect compared to if the slots are horizontal.
Always wondered why it was vertical.
I just checked out my face plates with screws adjusted horizonally and you're right the amount of dust collected there over the past four decades is probably contributing to my chronic allergic reactions whenever I am in the vicinity of their face plates.
I've reminded the wife to make sure to clean them from now on thanks
@@joseph7105 I never paid that much attention to the screws in the face plates.
Every time I go to someone else's house, I take a thin screwdriver with me and, when no one is looking, I set the faceplate screws to 2 o'clock.
Yeah, I'm that guy.
@@joseph7105 DId your wife slap you and say, "You can clean them I have enough to do"?
I like running electric in my chicken coops and their runs. I used two timers so the lights in the run turn off half an hour before the coop to draw the chickens inside to eat and drink before they roost for the night. A dusk to dawn porch light for me and a couple of outlets for accessories like the water warmer. I also added a couple outside outlets to power the occasional yard tool
I've been lurking and loving your videos for years. I love learning with you in a practical way. Thanks for the easy-to-follow instructions and ideas.
Appreciate that. Cheers
You can also place a ground fault outlet on your first outlet to protect the run.
That works only if the outlet you plug the shed extension cord into the house is not GFCI protected. You cannot have 2 GFCI’s in series. I found that out trying to plug in a welder into a GFCI protected outlet. The welder has its own GFCI built in. 😅
@@nakedtommy40Your statement that you cannot wire GFCI in series is factually incorrect.
you can infact have gfci in series
a lot of outdoor appliances and extension cords contain their own non removeable gfci
Probably makes more sense to put the GFCI on the outlet that the extension cord powering the whole thing plugs in to .. Most likely place where a fault would happen is where water might be. Better yet, use a GFCI breaker on the circuit
@@nakedtommy40 you prolly plugged the welder into a 15amp outlet is what happened
I really love how through you are with your videos. Not just now this and now that but why. And you don't rush in doing step by step. I'm buying my first house as I comment, so I'm trying to start learning more before I start planning any upgrades.
Jeff, Watching you is like sitting in a garage with a favorite uncle. working on a build. The videography and editing is wonderful. Your descriptions are so clear and conscise. However, THIS gem of a tutorial has just given me so much knowledge and even better, CONFIDENCE. I got this!
Leviton makes a great connector you can use for “temporary” power connections.
15 Amp 125-Volt Straight Blade Grounding Power Inlet Outlet, Gray
Right the last bit on the outside is just not acceptable. The cable is not UV rated and can deteriorate in the sun. Also, the plug is not waterproof and is likely to hang down and fill with water on the first rain.
@@JasonEDragonHe was so close! Leave the cord connection inside! There was so much that was bad about this video.
Even better add an in-use cover to make it completely weatherproof and fully up to code
I noticed how suddenly the sleeve portion of the plug appeared. Apparently you had to take it apart to slide that sleeve on off camera. I’ve had to do that so many times while replacing power cord ends and so glad there was nobody watching me. lol
I thought my eyes were playing tricks and just rolled with it. We are tuned in 😂 it's probably because we've done it enough we thought did he remember that nope
Yeah good eyes I saw that too lol
Just like flare nut fittings you do your best flare when you forget to put the nut on then cut it off then make a crappy flare with the nut on.😂
The day, I tell myself that I know it all and don't make mistakes is the day I stop learning. I been watching you for a long time. My question is here in america white Romex is for lights, switches the yellow is for outlets!; is that correct? I'm not a electrician but I do know that. Lol
@@juancarlosmunoz7177 yellow is 12/2 and good for 20 amp, white is 14/2 and good for 15 amps. 20 amp circuits are commonly used in bathrooms and kitchens and 15 amp circuits can be used else where.
Thank you for all the helpful little hints along the way. Truly helps !!!!! I learn much from watching you !! 👍🙏
I love the way you explain the what and why as you go!
46:55 OMG! You are the first person I've seen do the same as I do with the orientation of the screws. When I bought my house over 20 years ago, I went through every room and "fixed" the orientation of every screw. 👍
and here I thought it was my OCD, lol. Glad I'm not the only one.
Like it really matters
100%
@@johnkulpowich5260 I just periodically go around the house with a tiny little brush and carefully remove any accumulated dust from the screw slots. I've been told that wall plates are screwed on to a very precise torque specification, and I don't want to risk causing an electrical fire. 😏
I'm a little confused. I understood you to say the yellow receptacle on the outside of the shed is not waterproof. But it's left dangling in the weather. What did you do with it?
I've done this work before, DIY, but I learned a couple of things to make the next one easier. Thanks!
Cheers
Excellent video, fast presentation with tons of handy tips, no fluff. Thanks!
Excellent tutorial. It has been a while since I did my own wiring. I also got some good tips. Thank you!
Excellent video! Thanks for the system approach. One thing I learned in the Navy to help remember the wire color code for the outlet and switch screws is
White to Bright --> Neutral/white to silver screw
Black to Brass --> Hot/black to brass screw
Green to ground --> Bare copper wire to green ground screw
I think the "white to bright" is the only part I didn't hear you say. Thanks again for the no-nonsense teaching style. I love it. Keep up the good work.
I remember when I was a teen in the 70's with my Roadrunner (Plymouth). Must have changed the stereo 3 or 4 times as they got better. "Grey and white are right" (speakers) is the mnemonic I made up and I still remember it! Taught myself to rebuild an engine, too and probably became an Engineer because of that (not electrical Engineering!).
Great tid bit of info... just like to add something for safety, I was always taught to connect Grounds (GREEN) then Neutrals (WHITE) then Line/Power (BLACK) even tho the power is off, its just great practice. Also there should be no exposed wire from under the terminal screws, wire insulation should be up to the screw not under the screw. I know common sense right... but every one wants dollars, no one has sense anymore. Cheers
Black to Brass or you will fry your @$$
@@johnrledrew That is the way I was taught when I apprenticed for electrician. Most of the time when I was wiring outlets and switches the electrician I was working under had already energized the circuits. So I was wiring the outlets 'hot'. Heavy boots and insulated tools are your best friends.
I like that he's a regular guy doing stuff to save...on wiring, I'd have rolled out more and had fastened it flat to the studs/rafters. Functionally it does nothing but looks neater. Nice work regardless. Thanks!
I have to say. You explained this so well that I trust myself to do it without having to hire no one. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ GREAT JOB!
Thanks so much for this video. You have a nice way of delivering the instructions and the tips in a great tone and cadence. I can tell I'll need to watch this multiple times because there's just so much info, AND happy to do so. Thanks again.
I like the idea! Love the title as it is kind of permanent on the shed side, temporary on the outside.
Cheers
Only thing different i would have done is instead of that male plug hanging out the side of the shed, install a little portal with a door you can just open and feed your extesion through when in use and then the connection is inside the shed out of the weather and out of public view
I'm surprised there was no mention of this in the video. He mentioned it wasn't a weather proof plug but then it's assumed he's leaving it out in the weather?
Yeah, seems like he could've come up with a better solution.
The best solution would be a generator power inlet box. It would add maybe 50 bucks to the total cost of the project but they're designed to be weatherproof and permanent, and you can get ones that are just 120V 15A type plugs for an extension cord (usually for a whole house generator you'd get a big locking 240V plug).
All he had to do was spring for a power inlet receptacle and it would've looked like a proper job
Great video! I love how you point out and explain the small details along the way. Thanks!
This is, by far and away, the very best channel on RUclips!!! Thank you for all you do.
Nice layout and well done on the video.
The only thing i would have done differently would be to mount a weather tight box on the outside instead of the 90° junction point on the inside.
Essentially the same functionality, but ill never have to worry about cleaning off my work bench to access it. It would also serve as a junction point for later permanent power.
When wiring the wire to the outlets I had an experience where I only used my cordless drill/screwdriver to attach the wires. I went back to a location that I had wired a year later and noticed black scorch marks above a light switch. I opened the cover and noticed that the cordless driver hadn’t tightened the screws on the switch to the point that they wouldn’t move, so everytime someone flipped the switch on or off a little bit of movement would loosen the screw, after a years time the screw was so loose that everytime the switch was flipped a spark would occur. I’m grateful I discovered my error as it could have very easily started a fire. From that point onward I made sure that after I attached wires to switches or plugs that I would follow through with a manual screwdriver and give everything one more twist to make sure that they won’t ever work themselves loose. When you did your switch you said not to worry, that you did not want them too tight, I think you should reconsider that and ensure that they are tight enough so that they won’t ever loosen, it can be dangerous otherwise. Other than that it’s an excellent video and it’s very informative, I love the electric tape on the white wire!
After initially tightening the screws, after a few seconds go back and tighten the screws again. Copper is a soft metal and friction with the screw head causes the wire to expand ever so slightly making it feel you made a tight connection. The copper cools and shrinks a little and that requires retorquing to achieve proper tightness.
@@WoodgemanX *LOL!* Yeah, that copper wire gets pretty hot when you tighten the screw. It could almost burst into flames from all that friction!
The colored tape on the white conductor used in a switch loop is actually a code requirement.
@@TheRealCheckmate 'ever so slightly' it's like retorquing new alloy wheels. Look into it wise guy.
@@WoodgemanX It's nothing like retorquing alloy wheels! You're saying that a tiny little copper wire is actually going to heat up from the "friction" of turning the screw a few degrees more after it contacts the screw? That may be your theory, but I'd love to see how you could even detect that.
gonna be doing exactly this in March/April. Thank you Jeff
Great video. I learned a lot about adding electricity to a shed. Thanks much.
Thank you for the comprehensive video on how to get it done. I appreciate your explanation of key details. Very helpful to DIYers. I would caution that most local codes do define “temporary,” meaning that after the end of the “temporary” period (usually months - NOT years as you described) an inspection WILL be required! This is not to criticize your work - your procedures are sound. BTW, a good electrical contractor has one (or more) techs who focus solely on small jobs. Small jobs create thankful & loyal customers. Guess who they’ll call when they have a bigger job? Being willing to take on small jobs makes loyal customers at the very least, and has the potential to win bigger jobs down the road, either thru repeat business or referrals. IMHO, having one (or more) techs who focus solely on small jobs pays off in the long run.
"Temporary" is subject to interpretation. I guarantee there are many inspectors in many localities who would have a *big* problem if you told them some handyman on RUclips told you this didn't require an inspection or permit.
I used a boat/RV adapter that fits into the wall. I assumed that's what you were going to install when you drilled that big hole in the wall... not just a dangling bit of cord. The inset adapter has a male plug set inset, and has a cap to seal it when not in use.
Thank you so much!!!! I was just thinking last week I’d like to run lighting into my shed. This will be my Spring project. ☺️💕
Glad it was helpful!
I enjoyed that. It answers alot of questions. I will have to replace the socket. I got a plug in tester checking for faulty earth.
Your videos are great. Really have learned a lot. Thanks.
Happy to help!
Didn't check all the comments for this, but one suggestion for wiring, "First to make, Last to break", talking about the ground wire. That way, if you just happen to be working on a live circuit, the electricity travels down the path of least resistance, that ground wire, and not you.
thank you so much for teaching
me all of the details in all of your projects. I have learned so much from you at a time now that I truly need to know this stuff. you have helped me immensely. God Bless
Happy to help. Cheers
Here in MN, we hold our drrill at our hip to keep the holes level. We also use a Milwaukee right anglel, but that is commercial electric. There are obviously more than one way to accomplish this. Some people make a leveling stick but that takes too much time for production.
I bought an RV receptacle that you can plug an extension cord into to feed power to my shed. It looks better than a cord hanging out. My first setup was to just run the cord through the door. I found the RV plug on Amazon, and it works great until I can get permanent power.
Did the same, except I got a twist-lock version to ensure the plug wouldn't come loose.
@@Dracovivi I don't have a lot of activity in my backyard, but that still was an even better idea than mine.
If that’s working so well why would you get a permit lol. And does that one extension cord be able to function that whole shed?
“Permanent temporary” is my new favorite way of alluding to a fix that’s legally dubious.
its kinda like the 'accidentally on purpose' expression
My landlord wasn't interested in replacing the attic fan. I put a desk fan in the hole, held up with paperclips. Four years later it's still running.
Needing a permit for power to an out building is legally dubious
@@David-uf9qm Some municipalities don't allow power to non-permit required structures.
My town allows small sheds and the like without requiring a permit to place them, but they will jump on you for wiring it without it being a permitted and inspected structure.
Running an extension cord out when needed is a functional work around, though I'm thinking that I'd just put a "shore power" style input connector under an outdoor outlet cover instead of the romex pigtail.
@@heyallenify Some municipalities are clearly too protected from the people they don't serve.
I agree with you about the outdoor outlet, and personally I'd find a legal way to run power immediately adjacent to the shed out of spite.
You are the first person to explain why you put one on the bottom vs. the top. I've been wondering for years. 🙂
you dont. hes an idiot
you dont. hes an idiot
I saw what you did there when you were wiring up the plug!
You should hook up ground first neutral second and black last as a good practice, in some case see people think the turned power off and didn’t if you hook up hot first you are now working live
Wonderfully explained. Thanks for the clarity and good video angles.
Thank you for the vids. I always appreciate your detailed descriptions. I am curious how you intend to heat the shed, if you are planning on using it in the winter months. Hopefully, I didn't miss it if you already mentioned heating in a previous video.
Given the opportunity I always run 14-3 to my switches, just because new smart switches need a neutral and it's always nice to have the option in the future
14-3 is two hots, a neutral, and a ground (in the US), used for three-way switches or often used to power a fan and light on separate switches.
@Lightingcap yes, or in his switch leg he did he could cap off the white for future neutral use and use the red and black for the switches legs. If he ran power to the switch the 14/3 could go to a seperate fan and light on ceiling if he was to put one in (like in a house).
in US code a neutral is required in the box
personally I had never thought of solving this with 14/3 instead of running the feeder and fixture wires back to the switch box
That's the first thing I noticed was his switch box not having a neutral. This future permanent wiring job won't pass inspection.
New NEC code requires white neutral at a switch, so no more recoloring white for a switched hot. 3+ground or 4+ ground cable for switches now.
Check out the Leviton Decora Edge receptacles, they will change the way you wire. Even the electricians I have heard from swear by them because of how much faster they are for the same price.
Great video. Your advice is great and is exactly what I'm going to do to bring power out to my shed. Again, thanks.
Excellent video! Worth every minute spent watching it.
I was wondering when Jeff would realize he forgot the yellow plug backend... and then the edit happened haha MAGIC!
Hahaha i noticed it too. And I noticed he edited his vid....
Lol. I caught it as well. He should've left it in the video. I've done the same thing several times repairing extension cords.
I noticed that....
Good video for beginners, i am trying to get my son into electrical apprenticeship and your videos are great! Just a thought, run the temporary extention cord from outside through the siding port to the inside... so the non waterproof plug is inside.
Yes, I could show him stuff myself but kids prefer to see someone else in a video online, don't ask me why but yeah. He has seen inside lineman videos and they were boring so i wanted him to see how we actually do things lol
The USA desperately needs more apprenticeship programs for all of the building trades, as contractors are having a difficult time finding qualified workers. Children in their first or second year of high school should be encouraged to join apprenticeship training if their academic tests show that they are unlikely to be heading to college. This is how most European countries are set up so that the high school students graduate with a completed apprenticeship program of the students choice, or they continue on to college which is free for all students who have the grades and test scores to qualify for free university programs. It’s no wonder that American students have fallen behind all European students.
Thanks for the video. It'll come in handy in the spring. You say it's hot but you're not even sweating.
Also good to note on your switches and outlets that the push fitting for the wire is a single time use per most manufacturers so once you pull the wire out of it you have to use the screw contacts anyway. There have also been a number of studies showing a number of different circumstances where failure of a switch or receptable is due to a push connector issue. Screw connectors all day if you want it to be one and done and easy to work on later if you need to. Great job man. Always love your videos. I am not a certified electrician but I was a certified electrical engineer and I am a handyman. Keep the great content coming.
Great video. I don't know about Ontario, but in Québec we have to permanently mark white wires, when used as a switch loop (black sharpie on all the visible white of the wire).
Best method is to get heat shrink and a neat gun. Makes a more permanent indication,
In Ontario you cannot permanently mark a white wire any colour unless it is #1 or larger
❤ thank you so much❤ I cannot find people to do small jobs and with your excellent tutorial I think I can do this!!🎉
Glad I could help!
Hi Jeff, I am in Ireland, I worked for an American Railway Signalling Company here for 11 years. All our slotted screws were always vertical - Reason given was moisture can run down the slot and also while all being Vertical, then looked better. Perhaps just me but I would have run Plastic Conduit along the horizontal run, would have looked very professional. Good work, Great at explaining. Here in Ireland, The UK and Europe in general, Brown = Live, Blue=Neutral and Green/Yellow striped = Earth (CPC). Old Colours were Red =Live, Black= Neutral and Green=Earth (CPC). Philips and Robertson screws :) well we have our problems here too, Metric and Imperial pipe fittings mixed in the one installation , especially something built from 30 years ago and parts upgraded. So you could have 1/2 inch Copper, 1/2 inch Qualpex (plastic imperial) and 15mm Acorn (Grey metric) and perhaps Polly Pipe and fittings outside which would be for 1/2 and 3/4 black plastic hose pipe with both thick and standard wall thickness with White and light blue inserts for thick and thin or vice versa, Only the correct one will fit.
I like the simplicity of this electrical run. I'm thinking of doing the same. Even with 35 years experience you can still make mistakes.
I received a deep gash on my finger from a installation just like this one. The light switch had a full sized plate sitting on top of a box on an unfinished wall, exactly as in this video. Reaching in the dark to flip the switch on my finger caught the razor-sharp corner of the plate instead.
There are small outline outlet plates, usually in grey plastic, that just barely cover the edges of a standard electrical box. They are made for installations like this.
My first thought too when he put the full size plates on. We just bought a new house and the two outlets under the sink and microwave outlet had the big plates that I replaced with the box sized grey ones.
Or metal covers of about $1 that match the outline of a standard one gang box.
Use a generator plug box for a cleaner interface e.g. NEMA SS2-50P going to a panel in the shed. Then install an RV receptical on the house.
Great instruction! Kinda fast but I get it. Felt like I was being talked to instead of at. Thanks!
I live in North Eastern Ontario in an unorganized township and am considering doing this type of setup for my chicken coop. Great video. Thanks!
Interior Romex outside...a truly brave soul! You already said that plug was not waterproof. The paper in the Romex acts like a wick for moisture....Brave you are indeed! 🤔
Give the guy a break! He's a "handyman".
I guess you don't understand the concept of t e m p o r a r y. AFTER he runs the permanent cable he will pull the romex inside to the power panel.
@@swamprat69er Yeah, s-u-r-e he will...
Canadian romex doesn't have paper on the inside
@@xl600mine U.S. does for interior Romex, not on underground exterior. Interesting about Canada. Thanks for the note. ✌
Black wire on the brass screw. White wire on the silver screw. Thx for sharing.....
@HomeRenoVisionDIY Awesome video! I love your tips on wire loops and the staples you use on your wire, I’m guilty of hammering in staples until they’re tight.
Been doing my own home wiring for 40 years. Nothing has burned down yet (knocking on wood). Always interested in learning something new.
44:50 What about weatherproofing that male plug?
Last summer, I helped a friend do this very thing, except the shed was pretty far from the house, so we did some solar panels on the roof, 12v LED lighting and an inverter for AC power. We also put in a generator plug on the outside and a manual transfer switch on the inside setup so that the generator would charge the batteries and power the outlets.
you are the best especially for us DIY’ers, who know squat about anything but are willing to admit when they’re over their heads, like me! …….you’re the BEST ! eh!
Nice. I will use this to add switches lights to my garage and outlets in more convenient locations. It already has power and I wouldn't be using any more at a time than I do now, just less extension cords and switches instead of pull cords.
More Therapy by Jeff. Love watching these videos. So therapeutic.
It's amazing to learn how to do this stuff. I've put in a couple of power outlets and connected to breaker switches for my garage. Got fed up with trying to use an extension cord. I've also added light switches and more power outlets in my house along with fixing someone electrical crap job where grounds were broke in 2 outlets and he had 2 light switches hooked up to 1 outlet for the garbage disposal and dishwasher. I'm a newbie but someone was incompetent in the stuff I found.
A light switch to a dishwasher? That’s crazy!
Excellent video!
You know what we need...
Thank you
Absolutely amazing teaching Jeff.
I swear I’d love to watch a show with Jeff and Mike Rowe work together.
Kinda like Tim Allens Home Improvement meets This old house.
Would love to have him on the show
Great video as always. Lots of tips for beginner DIYers and good reminders for older DIYers like myself. One question though, you have your male plug running outside to attach to the extension cord, but you didn't show anything about weatherproofing that connection. I was waiting to see if you were going to put another L connector box on the outside too like you used on the inside or one of those outdoor receptacle boxes with the clear plastic lid for rain protection. What are your thoughts on this?
I used an RV connector box for the temporary connection. Available on Amazon.
Nice cut @42:19.
I've done that one more than I'd like to admit.
Jeff, you are a natural in front of the camera talking making jokes doing extensive work giving helpful hits giving advise. How do you do it ??? You're the best !!!!!!!
Also I didn't get it . . . .why does the slots in screws on the electrical box cover plates have to be turned vertical ? You are my favorite DIY guy !! Thank You 👍👍🙏
Definitely need an electrical permit in WA state. I’m also fairly certain the NV also requires one.
You do in Ontario too ( where he is doing this work ) but it makes for a catchy title.
You can also use a Robertson no 1 on the outlet
Thanks for the step by step instructions. You taught me so much today!
Glad I could help!
Perfect video. Great instruction and demo. Instant sub
Has anyone said you sound like Red Green? Not the incompetent part just the sound, you definitely know what you are doing.
he’s incompetent. must be a canadian virtue
he’s incompetent. must be a canadian virtue
Anyone that says you don’t need an electrical permit for this is incompetent. I’m a building inspectors that follows the national electrical code. (NEC) he is wrong.
@DCVinson well just because where you are for an extension cord to supply 2 outlets needs a permit doesn't mean you have to have a permit everywhere for temporary electric.
I don't have to have a permit to do anything, build a wind turbine, build a 30x50x12 shop and wire it, build a barn, build a house, etc.
Not everywhere in the country is as "advanced" as where you are, not all of us us live in a city, thank God for that.
The previous owners of my house did something similar with their shed. They ran 50a 240v to a NEMA plug on the outside of the house. Put a 50a 240V NEMA plug on the outside of the shed and ran it as the supply to a small panel in the shed. Whenever they wanted power in the shed, he'd just use a NEMA power cord to connect the two sockets. Everything about it felt incredibly wrong but I respect his desire to not pull a permit if he didn't have to. 😆
Building a shed. Thanks for your help.
Excellent video as always! Thank you!
This "temporary-to-permanent" concept is very practical and time-saving for the future. Thus seems mostly practical if the shed is within 75 ft of the power source. My shed will be about 135-150 ft from any power source and would have to run through a garden and around other objects. So, I am looking at a possible solar solution. Anyone else considering this option?
I’m in the same situation. $7000 for a sub panel with permits
Looking for something as an alternative because my 200’ extension cord can only do so much.
@@Paap810Rent a trencher from home depot for $100, buy the conduit/boxes, wires, sub panel, wire clamps for box, plastic shields for tec wire, breakers and install it all. Have an electrician inspect your work and tell you if there's any issues. Fix any issues and have them make the final connection to the house and sign off. Saves you thousands, you learn new tricks and the electrician can make $500 for a half hour of work 😅
2 extension cords? That's what I have going right now for my shed which is just over 100ft from an exterior outlet. One of these days I'll rent a ditch witch and bury a line, but it's been working fine. Just use 12/2 extension cord if you plan to run any power tools out there. I wrapped where the cords connect with shrink wrap (like for packaging) and no issues. Extension cords can be found surprisingly cheap, considering UF-B wire is like $2/foot.
I used a solar system, but it’s for my chicken coop tractor. Since it’s set up basically like a RV trailer that I can hook to the hitch of my truck and move it anywhere on my 5 acres. Using the grid for power would have been a problem every time I moved the coop tractor. So I ran my own solar system with the solar panels on the roof of the coop with the battery inside the coop. Gives me enough power for all the lights I need in the coop plus power for a heater to run in freezing weather and a heater water bowl . I have also used drills in the coop as well. Only thing I have to do when I move the coop tractor is maybe have to change the angle of my solar panels for the best sun shine to hit my panels.
My system actually was fairly cheap, got a solar kit from harbor freight and a medium size converter to handle the amount of power I be using in the coop. My lights are all 12 volt bulbs and surprisingly very bright! I bought the light bulbs on Amazon and their a clear glass bulb instead of frosted which dims the lights a bit.
Later on I did run a 110 volt power line going around the 3 watts of the coop with plug ins. I ran a RV male plug that’s got a waterproof surround and lid on the outside of the coop. Just like you find on most any RV trailer. Now if I ever need to use 110 volt power inside the coop tractor I just have to run an extension cord to the coop and plug it in. With solar as your only source of power you still have to deal with bad weather and when the sun not shining you don’t get much power charging your battery bank. It’s nice to have the option to still have the 110 volt power installed inside your building where you can still connect a extension cord in a pinch to get you by least for a short period of time! Or least be able to connect a generator if the power grid too far away?
30:49 they could require a permit for solar , any way they can take your money.
Do you think in the 1800s you had to pull a permit to cut down a tree and build a log cabin. Dig a hole as a well , or install a outhouse?
Maybe the wind mill that put water in the horse troft needed a city permit? This is a Free country?
Whos kidding who?
No building permits and code came about because of some of the disasters in the past where whole cities burned down like sf and the windy city. And or because people would wire a new outlet with 16/2 no ground speaker wire.
People had no clue how to make it safe.
41:49 I like your honesty Jeff when you forgot to put top of plug on 👍🏼
was looking for this. I do this so often and have that' DAMN IT' moment :) Humans.
I too was chuckling when I saw him start attaching the plug end, and the the top magically appeared at 42:20. I didn’t hear him say anything though😂
When I ran mine I used a small RV inlet. Was very efficient and waterproof.
Thank you very helpful, appreciate it two thumbs up
I'm a polymer scientist and your comment about silicone v. polyurethane sealants surprised me. Silicone doesn't stick well to wood, so I could see how water could intrude after adhesion loss with wooden building materials. Otherwise, unless someone did something crazy when formulating, a silicone-based sealant should be far more stable against damage by water than any polyurethane-based sealant. Could you share more about your experience with silicone sealants with us?
My question also. Am I waterproofing stuff all wrong?
@@SK-qt1rmThey use silicone when making fish tanks.
@binnsbrian you don't make wooden fish tanks
@@larryjolicoeur7169you missed the point
When you talk about permitting and inspection requirements, you really need to make it clear *where you are located.* These requirements can vary drastically from one place to another, and just because this doesn't require a permit for you does not mean that's true for lots of other people in other places.
In many places, even if the connection to the shed itself is not "permanent", if you are doing any _permanent modification to the structure_ for it, such as everything you are doing inside in this video, that work still may well need a permit and inspector sign-off before it can be used.
Everyone should always check with their own local city/county offices to determine whether something they're doing requires permits or not. Don't just blindly trust what some yahoo claims in a RUclips video.
(I was pretty impressed with the rest of the video, though. This is all really good quality work, and a good example of how to do this sort of stuff correctly. Much better than lots of other DIY RUclips videos out there. I do wish you'd actually put some sort of weatherproof box on the outside so that the (non-waterproof) extension cord plug connection could be done somewhere out of the elements. The current way, you just can't really safely plug in the shed in the winter time, which seems kinda dumb.)
I think you mean used legally, obviously it can be used
Brilliant Jeff. Very detailed. Thank you.
Cheers
How marvelously practical and informative!
Always wire ground neutral hot good practice reverse when disconnectindisconnecting
Hey Jeff. I suggest doing a pigtail on your outlet receptacles. At 30:15 Bring the blacks together and pigtail one black/white (other than the switch leg wiring) to it instead of relying on the little brass tap to make your connection. I was told this by old timer electrician long ago. It is better practice. Probably even code. Cheers!
PIGTAILS ARE JUST AN UNNEEDED EXTRA CONNECTION THAT CAN FAIL
Exactly what I was thinking when I saw that. Pigtailing is definitely best practice in that situation, best not to rely on a brass tab that is designed to snap off fairly easily. As far as providing connection to all downstream power supply, the pigtail replaces the tab, so its not really an unneeded extra connection. It is a superior connection that replaces an inferior one. The pigtail's wire nut is designed for the exact purpose of making that connection (to everything downstream) - the tab may be adequate but it is specifically designed to supply a power connection between the outlet's dual receptacles, not a connection across the outlet to everything downstream.
@@cjc9719Especially if you have higher load which can cause the receptacle to overheat
Electrician here , no need to pigtail the receptacles are designed to handle full load
@@larryjolicoeur7169 YEP! All pigtails do is add one more unneeded failure point!
I really enjoyed this DIY Electrical video, and I am a electrical DIYer, too! I have been a DIYer for a long time, but estpecially since my wife and I became howmeowners about 9-1/2 years. Also, I am a practicing handyman which is a wonderful way to help people!
I am a huge fan of all of your work (videos), and always look forward to your videos!
I saw you doing the yellow plug but forgot about a piece of the plug (I've made that error); and I could tell that you edited the video which was a great catch.
Well done, Sir!
My son's shed got a similar set up. At the entrance there was 2 LBs. One on each side. The cord came in and was connected there. The next year 3#12 replaced the #14 cord. 2 circuits so he can run a saw and have light if that breaker trips.
One surprise I had wiring a shed (exposed studs) was that per code, any horizontal wires had to be attached underneath to an added horizontal blocking stud or up to the top plate so as the sheathed wire could never be used to hang something. Can’t lay it in the bottom plate as something could potentially be placed on that sheathed wire. Very logical precaution.
I love this guy's spirit of freedom .
If I was going to do this much work, I would have wired it permanently. Just saying, but a great job Jeff. 🇨🇦💝👍
Must be a season back video, it’s cold here in here US now, it def not hot in Canada right now.
Great video, learned and inspired as always
Glad you enjoyed it
Confused about the choice of the male plug outside the building. Why have it outside where its exposed to the weather?