I love the collab. I hope they paid you well. This is the new way of reaching the populace and you have 3 million subs. I can imaginge they paid you five figures.
@@stigI appreciate your support. Working with brands like this is new for our team but we think it will go a long way to opening doors for future growth for the channel. Cheers
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY So yr getting paid for putting up INCORRECT AMATEUR METHOD'S of how to silicon - Absolutely pathetic..!! I've been tiling for 35 yrs & what yr trying to show them is absolute garbage..! A skilled pro like me would find it difficult to do yr masking tape garbage method, let alone casual D.I.Y.er's doing it themselves, it would be close to impossible to get a consistent exact silicon gap!!!! Take this garbage down it's completely wrong!!
I work in maintenance and do caulking weekly. It’s something Ive perfected over the years and frankly, if i do say so myself, Ive seen very few that are better than me. Just a few things for beginners, using tape is ok but be aware that time is a factor and its going to create ridge lines that catch bacteria. Also if you rely on the tape to heavily you’re going to have a terrible looking bead. Another thing is less is more… do not lay down a big heavy bead, you can always go back and add another thin line and resmooth it out. There is no product that removes caulk residue… even harsh paint thinners or mineral spirits wont strip it off - you have to scrape it off the absolute best you can, then wipe it clean with mineral spirits, then go back and scrape away anything the spirits swelled up. Clean and dry prep is key! If the edge is wet in behind you have to let it dry or use a heat gun to speed it up. Also, caulking tile is easy as it gets… i love when i get to a job and its nice tile lol its those acrylic plastic cheaper tub surrounds that are really difficult to get a good bond too, plus are difficult to run a clean bead because they flex n move. Many times you are forced to run a larger bead to get a better bond and things just look, not as great. Also, for acrylic surrounds I like to use acrylic caulk - but it has to be silicone impregnated meant for wet areas… normal acrylic caulk isn’t. The one bad thing about silicone impregnated acrylic caulk is it takes 72 hours to fully cure and it cant get wet before then! Thats longer than most can wait… especially when you add prep time on top of that. It works for me though cuz im generally working in vacant properties, but when im not im stuck using silicone. Edit: i see he addresses some of these points and im not surprised, he obviously knows his craft. But i stress… time is an issue- don’t get carried away and everyone sucks at first lol it takes years to learn even tho it looks easy.
I just learned this the hard way. 5 piece tub surround by delta is the hardest install I've ever caulked. Never did a shower before and the 5 piece looked simply "just glue it up" absolutely not. It looks awful
@@DavidHall-ff1unyes, just yes. Don’t get discouraged, you still learnt a lot from it. You can always try the caulk again another time when you’re feeling better. Those are the hardest without a doubt to make look nice and thats why none of these guys show themselves doing them on YT! Lol my only suggestion would be to make damn sure you buy a good quality tub surround adhesive and make sure you glue the absolute shit outta those 5 pieces and make sure theres little movement as possible… then buy a good quality caulk to match. Remember people in the shower will be leaning on the wall, plus the hot n cold temps will cause expansion and contraction, all these things make caulk bond not last! Good luck 🤞
I'm always using tapes for perfect straight lines and not a hint of greasy layer outside silicon line, just after forming the correct inward curvature of silicon using rubber caulking aids (it means I'm getting ridges of paper tape thickness) I always use soupy finger to ensure there are no bumps on the sides of silicon line and making silicon layer edges slightly thinner than thickness of paper tapes. Then removing the tapes, (note - there are no soupy areas behind the tape) and running soupy finger once again - with VERY VERY slightly and CONSTANT pressure and speed to ensure we have no bumps, no ridges, not even 0.1mm. This results in perfectly straight lines and no ridges at all. You can inspect it with a looking glass :) Yes, it's time consuming and needs some practice to feel that slight pressure to have it all done neat and clean, especially on these parts with vertical grout lines and corners. But anyway, I need it to repeat every 4...5 years only, so always taking at least like 40.....60 minutes to form all the perimeter around the bathtub. This kind of attitude is not for business, rather for those OCD DIY perfectionists who really enjoy it :) Otherwise a rubber caulking aid of 45 degrees, no inward curvature, just steady hands, no soap no tapes.
One important point missing is mold mitigation. The prime reason for replacing the caulking is the mold and many times I had scraped bare the old caulking and replace it with new when after less a year, the mold start reappearing. As it really impossible to scape off all the mold as they live in the crevices and within the rough grout surfaces, I used paper tissue soaked with bleach or vinegar to cover all the caulking surface for 24 hours and re-wetting it couple more times. This ensures all the mold is killed off. Now, I still don't see any mold after 2 years.
Jeff, thanks for these videos! You have helped me so much in my home DIY endeavors. Here's a tip for you from my own professional background: use manual focus on your camera. The constant "searching" for focus by the camera is not only distracting, it also prevents your viewer from seeing what you really want them to see. I mean, you're a good looking guy and all, but I'd rather see the caulk line in focus instead of the back of your head! 😉 Thanks again!
This video is just what I needed! I have put this off because I didn’t feel confident about doing this project. Now I’m armed with the tools & know how to do the job right! Thank you from one of the “beginners”.😊
I’m a handyman and I do it the same way but no tape and dry figer, never forget the rubbing alcohol . well explain for people with no experience , I like your channel
First off, I just have to say that I absolutely love Jeff's calm cool demeanor, feels like the Fred Penner of renovation work. Secondly, I have done a lot of caulking, but I would still consider myself in the tape it up category due to the infrequency of doing it. I wish I knew the go back and swipe it again after taking the tape off trick for my first couple of tries, but hey, you learn as you move on
Jeff, for the past two years everytime I am about to start a project on my house, you have released a video THAT DAY about the project I am about to do. Thank you for all that you have done for us and please quite spying on me. 😂
This covers everything important! A good modern product like GE Supreme is much better than the old vinegar-smelling silicone we grew up with. Prep is important otherwise it won't stick. The plastic scraper tools shown are excellent. 70% or 90% alcohol are excellent for cleaning and evaporate quickly; a "two rag" method is recommended, with one wet and one dry, so the dry one immediately cleans the wet surface before it evaporates. Bring an entire roll of paper towel; it's normal to "waste" a lot of silicone, because it's very important to SMUSH that silicone against the surface it is bonding with. Henkel's and DOW's detailed instructions really emphasize pressing the silicone down. Tape is important because you WILL make a mess as an amateur. As shown in the video, the tape is NOT for creating the edge of the joint, because if the silicone hits the tape, the edge will be ruined when you take the tape off. The tape is just for preventing mess. The TOOL + PRESSURE you use to create the joint will determine the size of the joint, so tape an area bigger than your intended joint size. Not mentioned is the need for backer rod; having too much of any kind of sealant can be a bad thing, because as it expands and contracts, the bigger joint acts like a muscle that can rip itself loose. Filling a hole in the wall with an expensive sealant also wastes money. So, if there's a gap behind the joint big enough to shove a foam backer rod into, shove it in there. Keep up the good work, Canada!
I'm definitely in the tape-to-caulk category. No shame, just good looking results. Respect to those pros who can achieve good caulk lines with just soap, tool and skill.
Actually the use of soap before applying the caulking is the wrong way to do it. adding any moisture behind the caulk may help with the aesthetic but has a terrible effect on the bond of the silicone to the surface. you get the same result if you never added the silicone.
I’m a commercial maintenance contractor. We use this product for a lot of the bathroom work. It’s good stuff. I find it takes a beating better than the rest. Thanks for the content man. I’ve followed you for a while.
I wish any part of the caulking replacement job I recently did went easily but that was not the case. I had black mold on almost every inch of the caulking and nothing I tried made any of the caulking come out in one nice, long strip. It all adhered like crazy and I literally had to use several different types and sizes of hobby knife blades to get every last bit of old caulk out of there. I used the same type and brand of caulk that he’s using in this vid and it came out much nicer than the previous job did. I did this over the course of several days owing to a very bad back but it came out great in the end. I DID use blue tape during the application of the new caulk and I made sure to fill the tub up first. Worked very nicely and, several months later, it has ZERO new mold growth and is, hopefully, a job I will NOT have to do again for a LONG time.
I did the tape method years ago and walked away as the caulk cured, forgot to remove the tape(about an hour later) and off came the caulk with it! Great video!
Nice tips Jeff! One tip from my side to use darker color masking tape on lighter color background or vise versa to be able to clearly see the straight line and ur caulking will be more precise
This was so helpful! I have to recaulk my tub and I've been putting it off for a whilte because it is one of my most hated jobs!! Even though I have done it several times over the years, I am glad of the refresher lesson here. Thank you!
4:36 my fav is denatured alcohol. Can use for many different things when comes to cleaning up types of “caulk/sealants” and also helps tool them as well. It also won’t harm 98% of materials in a house and dries super fast w/o leaving residue. Also use plastic razor blades for scrapers, as won’t cut the substrate and helps remove caulk and stickers and more, and cheap too. Those are my go to, and when tooling, put Danat Alc. in chemical proof spray bottle (YES CHEMICAL PROOF) and can mist silicone after using this and white cloth to clean clean clean (before caulk, and this won’t harm quartz, marble, etc countertops….but if have a table that’s black and has a “sealed varnish look”, don’t use as will remove that glossy look, as will rubbing alcohol) and then use tooling tool and just glides over silicone w/o sticking to everything, making a mess
THANK YOU!!!!! I've been staring at a small mold patch in the corner of my shower stall for weeks planning to attack it and this will help me massively.
Oh my word, I literally just caulked my tub today and so should have watched this beforehand!😩 At least I used the right caulk. I was actually kinda proud of my job until I watched this.😂 Hopefully it’ll do the job it’s supposed to do for awhile even if it’s an ugly mess of sorts.🤷♀️
The last few toilets I had to replace, I ditched the wax ring and went for the Oatey 3 in one red rubber gasket. No fuss install, works with all flange heights, and if the toilet does happen to rock in the future, no wax seal to break.
Retired Electricain: Thank You your advise was very helpful. A bit of feedback. My cork gun had not been used in years, and I was getting poor results. WD 40 and things get much better. Others who were never in the trades may not do as well. I suggest spending one minute on your next lessons, talking about tools, care! Sincerely Dennis R
Hilarious. What, about you being an electrician has anything to do with caulking. I’m in the caulking trade and we laugh at other trades like plumbers and carpenters and painters that think they know the first thing about caulking.
Clearly you missed my intention. I respect your skill! That is why I watched your post. My point: is others may benefit by your teaching basic care of tools!
@ I also respect your skill. The simple fact is all of the trades are pretty simple. Until they aren’t. Just a very simplified example. Residential wiring hot, neutral, ground. Very simple Then add a 220 ( forgive me I’m old) circuit. Is it now a neutral wire of a ground? ( again very basics but confusing to homeowner) and it only gets more complicated when you add a 3 way switch or a relay. Not rocket science but can become complicated. ( again in talking very basics)
The wife has been bugging me to redo the caulking & grouting because of mold buildup. I kept putting it off. Now I know why. This video will help me do it the right way !! Time to go shopping for the right tools & supplies !!
I just did mine again after it cracked, so I got a different brand of silicone and laid a better bead. I didn't notice some of the wider gaps may not have been filled enough. Not a prefect job, but it's pretty consistent. I don't use tape, I use my finger and really try not to lose some out the side, but always do, then have to wet my finger and try to wipe the line straight. It's one of those jobs that looks easy but can be difficult to get it perfect. Took 1 hour to clean up the old caulk and 15 minutes to lay the new.
I’m always amazed that people will buy the cheapest caulk. My husband and I are asked by elderly neighbors and their friends to perform simple repairs and I give them an estimate of the cost of the items. Maybe they did those repairs in the past or have looked at the cost of caulk but I explain that the difference in price isn’t that much but even though we can caulk ourselves we use the best available simply because it lasts longer and it’s purpose is to prevent water leaking to cause more expensive repairs. I tell people that they can save a few dollars but if they then pay someone else to replace it more often, it will cost them more money in the long run.
From what I've seen, the caulking jobs that are the hardest to get right are the ones that are done to cover up a messy, uneven gap. They have to be wide and while they can look good at first if masking tape is used, they end up peeling just enough to catch water and cultivate mold. It takes longer to cut the tiles or panels precisely, but it lets you apply caulk almost as if it were grout, so it won't trap water or peel.
At 15:30 you recommend just taping and caulking one side at a time, but where two sides meet, wouldn't one side be dry already and so that corner wouldn't properly seal?
If my tub has grout right to the tub lip (I didn’t do it), and is now cracking off pieces along with the caulking peeling off; do I remove the grout then fill it with caulk? That would be my thought. Thanks. 🇨🇦
Wrong. Using any liquid to tool with will significantly shorten the life expectancy. That is fact I’m a professional caulker and if we use thus stupidity the warranty is void. It is amazing the crap that non professionals come up with.
Excellent video! Have you ever used "GE Re-New" caulk? It is supposed to be able to go over existing caulk without having to remove the existing caulk. I have used it once about 6 months ago and it has held up so far. But your thoughts would be appreciated!
Nice work! The thing I hate is that most high-quality silicone caulks off the big-box shelves are either clear or bright white -- which is fine if you're working on newer homes. But if you're doing older homes, the bright white ones make your typical bone-colored tub even dingier.
I enjoyed your video, aside from the cameraman focusing issue it was done well. I would like to offer advice from my personal experience. I am not good at caulking and absolutely hate it, when i have to, i do use this tape method. When laying down the tape you must start at one end and continue moving around making sure to overlap well, this way when it comes time to remove, it all comes up when you start pulling. You also have to do the entire caulk job in one pass, believe me it gets very stressful trying to get it done in 1/2 hour. ? It seems like it's plenty of time till you start working. The reason i would NOT do it in sections is for the very reason you state in the video, silicone does not stick to silicone.The new silicone will not stick to the previously applied silicone. You are not fast enough to lay down new tape , new caulk, and tool, before the previously applied starts to dry. It has to be done in 1 pass. You should use painters tape instead of masking tape, it comes off easier. I've been using the GE caulk for years and it works well and lasts a long time, tough to remove when it comes time to recaulk. NEVER use water based caulk for showers/ tubs or soapy water like you mentioned. I did it once and had to redo the job in a few months!! Thanks for the videos!👍
You said silicone doesn't bond to dry silicone. So how do you do the vertical corner joint after you've finished the tub area, since the tub area will be dry?
Amazon has the GE Supreme caulk is $45 for some unexplained reason while at Princess Auto it is $14 & Rona has it at $17 for the same size product so you may wish to look around before purchasing. I’m doing my bathtub, toilet and Kitchen counter this weekend so the video was very helpful, i’ve gotten 15 years out of those area’s however never used the Supreme grade product so will see if that particular one holds up even better. Cheers.
on some old metal tubs you may need to use a chisel. in those cases pick up some touch up paint. then tape off the area to be chiseled. when finished apply some repair paint and let dry before using the alcohol to prep. this makes it a 2 day repair but worth it. Cheers!
I've always used DAP, which says it's mold resistant and for bathtubs, sinks, etc. And yet I've been told by a plumber that that's the wrong stuff to use for the tub. So many products say they are for tubs/bathrooms, etc, but I'm told that some are "wrong," like you did at the start of this video. What makes a product right when most of them claim to be right?
Look for a product that is 100% silicone. If it is paintable, it isn't 100% silicone. That said, I do believe there are some products that might paintable and fully waterproof but I only ever use silicone products.
the supreme 100% silicone is the best because it is formulated to bond to everything smooth and glossy. it is also the most durable and stretchy. today tubs are so flexible you need the best product on the market. For a steel tub the advanced is fine but on any acrylic surface the supreme is a no brainer for the extra buck it costs!
Water ready in 30 minutes. But to fully cure, the average silicone caulk takes a minimum of 12 hours to cure. And longer is better, a couple of days would be best. Take a sponge bath if you have to clean yourself more often, it will be worth it to not mess up the caulking job in the long run.
i plan on doing my caulking as sloppy as possible, with huge globs and smears, to match the warped and discolored shower lining, that has crumbling plaster, rust, paint chips, and a hundred years of calcium buildup growing behind it, so that it matches my vintage green tub, and exposed busted pipes to perfection
Jeff, how did you read my mind?! I need to redo my caulk because of mold. I bought the stuff a few days ago and was wondering how to do it the right way.
just be cautious when doing the removal if you find mold behind the caulking that means you have water infiltration behind the tile. In those cases I recommend you also seal the grout on the shower wall. Once sealed you may need to replace annually until the walls dry out and the mold stops growing. hopefully the wall stays string enough to avoid the need to replace the shower walls. as well. Cheers!
Same reason he stated in the video for why to fill the tub to begin with. You want the caulk to cure while the tub is holding the water weight. If you apply the caulk and then drain before it cures, you risk the caulk separating from the surface because of the flexion of the tub.
@@LaurenR187 Stop talking garbage. I'm a tiler of 40 years & I've never filled the damn bath BECAUSE YOU DON'T HAVE TO IT'S A PATHETIC MYTH ---- IF THE SILICON IS ANY GOOD & IT'S BEEN APPLIED CORRECTLY UNLIKE THIS D.I.Y. AMATEUR TEACHING YOU THE WRONG METHOD, THE SILICON/CAULK WILL FLEX UP TO 1MM WHEN THE TUB IS FULL... OK...! DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GOOSE PUTTING WRONG DEMO'S UP THAT ARE COMPLETELY WRONG..!
Whoever installed my shower put grout everywhere, including where the wall meets the tub, the corners, and the ceiling. It's like cement and I can't get it out., yet it's cracked. I tried using a blade to cut it out, but it won't budge. Do I need to use one of those circular saws? I might have to hire someone if that's the case.
As a professional caulker, silicone does bond to silicone. But that is meaningless if the silicone is not bonded to the substrate. Always remove all of the silicone.
I wish tub to tile joints were as uniform and small as yours is there. I usually see situations where the joint is cracked, moldy and leaking water, but the joint itself is 1/4” wide at one end of the tub and 1” wide at the other. Then you are expected to leave a perfectly-finished ripple and sag-free new caulking joint….that’s what happens when someone sets a tub out of level compounded by no foresight on the tile layout.
alcohol won't help with the scrapper. if plastic won't work use the metal but be careful around soft materials like acrylic. Cheers! Metal is great on tile. the secret is to keep the blade sharp. once it is nicked it scratches.
When I caulked the tub yesterday, I think I made a big mistake. After I applied the caulking I removed the tape the next day but didn't notice the silicone lifting off.
As mentioned, silicone won't bond to water, so easier/faster to not spend time taping (I made that mistake my first time), but after you spread the caulk, lightly spray a mist bottle of water (no soap, pure water) over it. It can't mix with the silicone. It prevents caulk from pushing under tape, it prevents issues with tape tearing, it prevents caulk on tape getting on other surfaces, etc. If you use a wet finger to wipe the silicone, it won't stick to your finger and just wipes off. If you use a dry finger, it can drag caulk out of the space! You also then need soap to wash it off your fingers. When I switched methods, it was much easier, much better looking, and took a fraction of the time for a pro result. No need to buy a special purpose single use tool either.
I still use tape on the longer runs, I just did a shower stall 6' long and the tape helped a lot on those sections. And as you say use water I don't know why he's so against it.
@@DietBajaBlast Diet don't listen to the Ferret or this amateur D.I.Y. fail teaching you the wrong method. Add a small concentration of dishwashing detergent with water to your spray bottle (not just water, see how easy it wipes off!!), use a paddle pop stick to wipe off (so you don't cut your finger on the sharp tile cut against the bath like this dummy teaches you), then wipe the excess silicon off the paddle pop stick onto a small bit of carpet or rag & continue to wipe off..! YOU DON'T NEED TO USE TAPE, THIS JOKE IS TEACHING YOU THE COMPLETELY WRONG METHOD..! Tiler of 35yrs.
I once saw a video with a guy applying silicone and he said not to use your finger because you would be transferring bacteria from your finger onto the silicone and this will also cause mold.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY THE SECRET IS TO USE A PADDLE POP STICK TO WIPE IT OFF YOU AMATEUR..! (FOR A BETTER WIPE & SO YOU DON'T CUT YOUR FINGER ON THE CUT TILE EDGE..!) STOP TEACHING THEM THESE PATHETIC METHOD'S OK.....!.. ALL ASPECT'S OF THIS VIDEO YOU'RE TEACHING THEM IS WRONG & SHOULD BE TAKEN DOWN - YOU DON'T USE TAPE WHATSOEVER THAT'S PATHETIC..!!!
I used that ge silicone for the kitchen sink. It looks like mold is just on top of the silicone and I tried to bleach it but it didnt remove it. But it is only on a section of the silicone. So the sink is 30inch long. and the mold is only on like 3 in of the silicone. Why is that?
sometimes organics get trapped in the silicone while drying or were left on the surface during install. once organics get wet the mold spores in the air attach themselves and then it grows. mold needs water food and a spore and that is it. a kitchen sink is very easy to find all 3 . Cheers!
You dont need these bead smooyhing tools. A talented finger will do the job just fine. (Plus the proper amount of aulk applied. Best to do too little than too much. You can add caulk as needed on the bead.) His tips on old caulk removal are on the money. Practice makes perfect is what I have found.
Stop talking garbage. Use a paddle pop stick to wipe off you joke. It's a better wipe plus you won't cut your finger against the sharp tile edge...!!!!!!
You said fill in with water but while you were applying silicone the mass of the water in the tub was much lower than your own when you were in so you'd probably be better off putting bead in while kneeling in the tub than having nearly empty tub that is far from person +water mass
You dont need to use the tape. Caulk it and spray the bottle of glass cleaner over it and wipe with finger. Caulk wont stick to the glass cleaner and it all comes off except for the bead. The light blue lid can.
never add glass cleaner or soapy water to a silicone job. this is a gimmick to make things look good but always negatively affects the integrity of the installation.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I always use water, a little, because the silicone will stick to anything you try to pull a line with. I only redo my silicone lines once every 10 to 12 years, so it can be done.
Back in the late 70s American olean tile and Dow Corning had a create a product called a Master set. It was basically 12 tile silicone together with Dow Corning silicone. They trained there installers like my father to work with silicone! They removable tips on there tube's made for feild joints as well as the standard tip. Two key items are used to tool the silicone! Denatured alcohol and cotton cheese cloth! The Denatured alcohol goes into a misting spray bottle and is used to clean prior and during the caulking process. One you have applied the silicone you spray it down with the Denatured alcohol and tool most of the excess with your finger. After that is done take a piece of the cheese cloth 12 inch square and wrap the tip of your finger with some of this cheese cloth square and begin to remove the excess on the sides of the joist. You will continue to do this changing the area of the cheese cloth you are used and clean it out the best you can. Paper towels are best for the excess caulking you accumulated.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Hope you found this video helpful. You can find the link to the silicone I used in this video 👉🏼 amzn.to/3NH08CZ
I love the collab. I hope they paid you well. This is the new way of reaching the populace and you have 3 million subs. I can imaginge they paid you five figures.
@@stigI appreciate your support. Working with brands like this is new for our team but we think it will go a long way to opening doors for future growth for the channel. Cheers
You got to be kidding me dude.
when people start selling me stuff in the videos I stop watching.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY So yr getting paid for putting up INCORRECT AMATEUR METHOD'S of how to silicon - Absolutely pathetic..!! I've been tiling for 35 yrs & what yr trying to show them is absolute garbage..! A skilled pro like me would find it difficult to do yr masking tape garbage method, let alone casual D.I.Y.er's doing it themselves, it would be close to impossible to get a consistent exact silicon gap!!!! Take this garbage down it's completely wrong!!
I work in maintenance and do caulking weekly. It’s something Ive perfected over the years and frankly, if i do say so myself, Ive seen very few that are better than me. Just a few things for beginners, using tape is ok but be aware that time is a factor and its going to create ridge lines that catch bacteria. Also if you rely on the tape to heavily you’re going to have a terrible looking bead. Another thing is less is more… do not lay down a big heavy bead, you can always go back and add another thin line and resmooth it out. There is no product that removes caulk residue… even harsh paint thinners or mineral spirits wont strip it off - you have to scrape it off the absolute best you can, then wipe it clean with mineral spirits, then go back and scrape away anything the spirits swelled up. Clean and dry prep is key! If the edge is wet in behind you have to let it dry or use a heat gun to speed it up. Also, caulking tile is easy as it gets… i love when i get to a job and its nice tile lol its those acrylic plastic cheaper tub surrounds that are really difficult to get a good bond too, plus are difficult to run a clean bead because they flex n move. Many times you are forced to run a larger bead to get a better bond and things just look, not as great. Also, for acrylic surrounds I like to use acrylic caulk - but it has to be silicone impregnated meant for wet areas… normal acrylic caulk isn’t. The one bad thing about silicone impregnated acrylic caulk is it takes 72 hours to fully cure and it cant get wet before then! Thats longer than most can wait… especially when you add prep time on top of that. It works for me though cuz im generally working in vacant properties, but when im not im stuck using silicone.
Edit: i see he addresses some of these points and im not surprised, he obviously knows his craft. But i stress… time is an issue- don’t get carried away and everyone sucks at first lol it takes years to learn even tho it looks easy.
I just learned this the hard way. 5 piece tub surround by delta is the hardest install I've ever caulked. Never did a shower before and the 5 piece looked simply "just glue it up" absolutely not. It looks awful
@@DavidHall-ff1unyes, just yes. Don’t get discouraged, you still learnt a lot from it. You can always try the caulk again another time when you’re feeling better. Those are the hardest without a doubt to make look nice and thats why none of these guys show themselves doing them on YT! Lol my only suggestion would be to make damn sure you buy a good quality tub surround adhesive and make sure you glue the absolute shit outta those 5 pieces and make sure theres little movement as possible… then buy a good quality caulk to match. Remember people in the shower will be leaning on the wall, plus the hot n cold temps will cause expansion and contraction, all these things make caulk bond not last! Good luck 🤞
Make a video so we all can see it it
I'm always using tapes for perfect straight lines and not a hint of greasy layer outside silicon line, just after forming the correct inward curvature of silicon using rubber caulking aids (it means I'm getting ridges of paper tape thickness) I always use soupy finger to ensure there are no bumps on the sides of silicon line and making silicon layer edges slightly thinner than thickness of paper tapes. Then removing the tapes, (note - there are no soupy areas behind the tape) and running soupy finger once again - with VERY VERY slightly and CONSTANT pressure and speed to ensure we have no bumps, no ridges, not even 0.1mm. This results in perfectly straight lines and no ridges at all. You can inspect it with a looking glass :) Yes, it's time consuming and needs some practice to feel that slight pressure to have it all done neat and clean, especially on these parts with vertical grout lines and corners. But anyway, I need it to repeat every 4...5 years only, so always taking at least like 40.....60 minutes to form all the perimeter around the bathtub. This kind of attitude is not for business, rather for those OCD DIY perfectionists who really enjoy it :) Otherwise a rubber caulking aid of 45 degrees, no inward curvature, just steady hands, no soap no tapes.
Paragraphs are nice
I caulked my tub last year and did an awful job. I was planning on redoing it the right way next weekend. This video came out at the perfect time!
Glad it helped! You got this! Cheers!
One important point missing is mold mitigation. The prime reason for replacing the caulking is the mold and many times I had scraped bare the old caulking and replace it with new when after less a year, the mold start reappearing. As it really impossible to scape off all the mold as they live in the crevices and within the rough grout surfaces, I used paper tissue soaked with bleach or vinegar to cover all the caulking surface for 24 hours and re-wetting it couple more times. This ensures all the mold is killed off. Now, I still don't see any mold after 2 years.
Thank you great tip
Jeff, thanks for these videos! You have helped me so much in my home DIY endeavors. Here's a tip for you from my own professional background: use manual focus on your camera. The constant "searching" for focus by the camera is not only distracting, it also prevents your viewer from seeing what you really want them to see. I mean, you're a good looking guy and all, but I'd rather see the caulk line in focus instead of the back of your head! 😉 Thanks again!
This video is just what I needed! I have put this off because I didn’t feel confident about doing this project. Now I’m armed with the tools & know how to do the job right! Thank you from one of the “beginners”.😊
I’m a handyman and I do it the same way but no tape and dry figer, never forget the rubbing alcohol . well explain for people with no experience , I like your channel
Cheers! I usually don' use the tape either but using a caulking gun can take some practice.
First off, I just have to say that I absolutely love Jeff's calm cool demeanor, feels like the Fred Penner of renovation work.
Secondly, I have done a lot of caulking, but I would still consider myself in the tape it up category due to the infrequency of doing it. I wish I knew the go back and swipe it again after taking the tape off trick for my first couple of tries, but hey, you learn as you move on
Jeff, for the past two years everytime I am about to start a project on my house, you have released a video THAT DAY about the project I am about to do. Thank you for all that you have done for us and please quite spying on me. 😂
sorry! I have recalled the drone. Now I have to find a new muse! Cheers!
I was going to say the same thing. Recall my drone, too!
Done. and once again my apologies. need to stay current , Cheers!
This covers everything important! A good modern product like GE Supreme is much better than the old vinegar-smelling silicone we grew up with. Prep is important otherwise it won't stick. The plastic scraper tools shown are excellent. 70% or 90% alcohol are excellent for cleaning and evaporate quickly; a "two rag" method is recommended, with one wet and one dry, so the dry one immediately cleans the wet surface before it evaporates. Bring an entire roll of paper towel; it's normal to "waste" a lot of silicone, because it's very important to SMUSH that silicone against the surface it is bonding with. Henkel's and DOW's detailed instructions really emphasize pressing the silicone down. Tape is important because you WILL make a mess as an amateur. As shown in the video, the tape is NOT for creating the edge of the joint, because if the silicone hits the tape, the edge will be ruined when you take the tape off. The tape is just for preventing mess. The TOOL + PRESSURE you use to create the joint will determine the size of the joint, so tape an area bigger than your intended joint size.
Not mentioned is the need for backer rod; having too much of any kind of sealant can be a bad thing, because as it expands and contracts, the bigger joint acts like a muscle that can rip itself loose. Filling a hole in the wall with an expensive sealant also wastes money. So, if there's a gap behind the joint big enough to shove a foam backer rod into, shove it in there.
Keep up the good work, Canada!
I'm definitely in the tape-to-caulk category. No shame, just good looking results. Respect to those pros who can achieve good caulk lines with just soap, tool and skill.
Actually the use of soap before applying the caulking is the wrong way to do it. adding any moisture behind the caulk may help with the aesthetic but has a terrible effect on the bond of the silicone to the surface. you get the same result if you never added the silicone.
I’m a commercial maintenance contractor. We use this product for a lot of the bathroom work. It’s good stuff. I find it takes a beating better than the rest.
Thanks for the content man. I’ve followed you for a while.
Cheers!
I wish any part of the caulking replacement job I recently did went easily but that was not the case. I had black mold on almost every inch of the caulking and nothing I tried made any of the caulking come out in one nice, long strip. It all adhered like crazy and I literally had to use several different types and sizes of hobby knife blades to get every last bit of old caulk out of there. I used the same type and brand of caulk that he’s using in this vid and it came out much nicer than the previous job did. I did this over the course of several days owing to a very bad back but it came out great in the end. I DID use blue tape during the application of the new caulk and I made sure to fill the tub up first. Worked very nicely and, several months later, it has ZERO new mold growth and is, hopefully, a job I will NOT have to do again for a LONG time.
Wow, It's so great that they got you a sponsorship
Way to go Jeff.
Cheers
I did the tape method years ago and walked away as the caulk cured, forgot to remove the tape(about an hour later) and off came the caulk with it!
Great video!
Nice tips Jeff!
One tip from my side to use darker color masking tape on lighter color background or vise versa to be able to clearly see the straight line and ur caulking will be more precise
This was so helpful! I have to recaulk my tub and I've been putting it off for a whilte because it is one of my most hated jobs!! Even though I have done it several times over the years, I am glad of the refresher lesson here. Thank you!
4:36 my fav is denatured alcohol. Can use for many different things when comes to cleaning up types of “caulk/sealants” and also helps tool them as well. It also won’t harm 98% of materials in a house and dries super fast w/o leaving residue. Also use plastic razor blades for scrapers, as won’t cut the substrate and helps remove caulk and stickers and more, and cheap too.
Those are my go to, and when tooling, put Danat Alc. in chemical proof spray bottle (YES CHEMICAL PROOF) and can mist silicone after using this and white cloth to clean clean clean (before caulk, and this won’t harm quartz, marble, etc countertops….but if have a table that’s black and has a “sealed varnish look”, don’t use as will remove that glossy look, as will rubbing alcohol) and then use tooling tool and just glides over silicone w/o sticking to everything, making a mess
For anyone that can't find denatured alcohol, I've had great results in the past using mineral spirits.
Yet again a fantastic video, Jeff! Keep em coming, we all appreciate your hard work and insight.
Cheers
I learn so much from you. I've been using soapy finger for long time. I won't from now on.
Great tips, some I did not know and will be sure to implement the next time. Thanks, always informative.
THANK YOU!!!!! I've been staring at a small mold patch in the corner of my shower stall for weeks planning to attack it and this will help me massively.
Happy to help! Cheers
Spartan Chemical, Foamy Q&A will clean your shower like new. Then your steps for caulking.
Great videos!
Oh my word, I literally just caulked my tub today and so should have watched this beforehand!😩 At least I used the right caulk. I was actually kinda proud of my job until I watched this.😂 Hopefully it’ll do the job it’s supposed to do for awhile even if it’s an ugly mess of sorts.🤷♀️
Don't forget! The CORNER! you need to make sure you bring that gap between the new and old silicone higher then where allot of water will pool.
The last few toilets I had to replace, I ditched the wax ring and went for the Oatey 3 in one red rubber gasket. No fuss install, works with all flange heights, and if the toilet does happen to rock in the future, no wax seal to break.
That the exact same product I just used to re-seal 2 showers and 1tub excellent product highly recommended
Retired Electricain: Thank You your advise was very helpful. A bit of feedback. My cork gun had not been used in years, and I was getting poor results. WD 40 and things get much better. Others who were never in the trades may not do as well. I suggest spending one minute on your next lessons, talking about tools, care! Sincerely Dennis R
Hilarious. What, about you being an electrician has anything to do with caulking. I’m in the caulking trade and we laugh at other trades like plumbers and carpenters and painters that think they know the first thing about caulking.
Clearly you missed my intention. I respect your skill! That is why I watched your post. My point: is others may benefit by your teaching basic care of tools!
@ I also respect your skill. The simple fact is all of the trades are pretty simple. Until they aren’t. Just a very simplified example. Residential wiring hot, neutral, ground. Very simple Then add a 220 ( forgive me I’m old) circuit. Is it now a neutral wire of a ground? ( again very basics but confusing to homeowner) and it only gets more complicated when you add a 3 way switch or a relay. Not rocket science but can become complicated. ( again in talking very basics)
Oh nice! Just when I redid my tub after watching one of your older videos from years ago! Lol! And now I’ll go broke with your AMZN page
The wife has been bugging me to redo the caulking & grouting because of mold buildup. I kept putting it off. Now I know why. This video will help me do it the right way !! Time to go shopping for the right tools & supplies !!
You can do it! Happy wife Happy >>>>>>>>>
Thank you! Very good info. I am attempting to fix my bathtub this weekend....hopefully I will do a decent job.
You can do it! Cheers!
Great finish on the tub. I wish you had a video on stabilizing and caulking around a toilet.
I just did mine again after it cracked, so I got a different brand of silicone and laid a better bead. I didn't notice some of the wider gaps may not have been filled enough. Not a prefect job, but it's pretty consistent. I don't use tape, I use my finger and really try not to lose some out the side, but always do, then have to wet my finger and try to wipe the line straight. It's one of those jobs that looks easy but can be difficult to get it perfect. Took 1 hour to clean up the old caulk and 15 minutes to lay the new.
Literally have this on my list to do this weekend! Thank you!
Love when the timing works out. Cheers
I’m always amazed that people will buy the cheapest caulk. My husband and I are asked by elderly neighbors and their friends to perform simple repairs and I give them an estimate of the cost of the items. Maybe they did those repairs in the past or have looked at the cost of caulk but I explain that the difference in price isn’t that much but even though we can caulk ourselves we use the best available simply because it lasts longer and it’s purpose is to prevent water leaking to cause more expensive repairs. I tell people that they can save a few dollars but if they then pay someone else to replace it more often, it will cost them more money in the long run.
Thanks Jeff ! great tips for siliconing a bathtub.
From what I've seen, the caulking jobs that are the hardest to get right are the ones that are done to cover up a messy, uneven gap. They have to be wide and while they can look good at first if masking tape is used, they end up peeling just enough to catch water and cultivate mold. It takes longer to cut the tiles or panels precisely, but it lets you apply caulk almost as if it were grout, so it won't trap water or peel.
At 15:30 you recommend just taping and caulking one side at a time, but where two sides meet, wouldn't one side be dry already and so that corner wouldn't properly seal?
If my tub has grout right to the tub lip (I didn’t do it), and is now cracking off pieces along with the caulking peeling off; do I remove the grout then fill it with caulk? That would be my thought. Thanks. 🇨🇦
Using a product like Sprayway allows you to tool the silicone without using tape-plus you get a proper and cleaner fill.
Thank you Jeff.
Wrong. Using any liquid to tool with will significantly shorten the life expectancy. That is fact I’m a professional caulker and if we use thus stupidity the warranty is void. It is amazing the crap that non professionals come up with.
My man, this couldn't of come at a better time. 🙌
happy to help. Cheers!
Excellent video! Have you ever used "GE Re-New" caulk? It is supposed to be able to go over existing caulk without having to remove the existing caulk. I have used it once about 6 months ago and it has held up so far. But your thoughts would be appreciated!
Nice work! The thing I hate is that most high-quality silicone caulks off the big-box shelves are either clear or bright white -- which is fine if you're working on newer homes. But if you're doing older homes, the bright white ones make your typical bone-colored tub even dingier.
I enjoyed your video, aside from the cameraman focusing issue it was done well. I would like to offer advice from my personal experience. I am not good at caulking and absolutely hate it, when i have to, i do use this tape method. When laying down the tape you must start at one end and continue moving around making sure to overlap well, this way when it comes time to remove, it all comes up when you start pulling.
You also have to do the entire caulk job in one pass, believe me it gets very stressful trying to get it done in 1/2 hour. ? It seems like it's plenty of time till you start working. The reason i would NOT do it in sections is for the very reason you state in the video, silicone does not stick to silicone.The new silicone will not stick to the previously applied silicone. You are not fast enough to lay down new tape , new caulk, and tool, before the previously applied starts to dry. It has to be done in 1 pass. You should use painters tape instead of masking tape, it comes off easier. I've been using the GE caulk for years and it works well and lasts a long time, tough to remove when it comes time to recaulk. NEVER use water based caulk for showers/ tubs or soapy water like you mentioned. I did it once and had to redo the job in a few months!!
Thanks for the videos!👍
You said silicone doesn't bond to dry silicone. So how do you do the vertical corner joint after you've finished the tub area, since the tub area will be dry?
Thanks for the motivation. But at my age it is more difficult to get in and then out of the bath. I think I will use the tape you can get from ebay.
Amazon has the GE Supreme caulk is $45 for some unexplained reason while at Princess Auto it is $14 & Rona has it at $17 for the same size product so you may wish to look around before purchasing. I’m doing my bathtub, toilet and Kitchen counter this weekend so the video was very helpful, i’ve gotten 15 years out of those area’s however never used the Supreme grade product so will see if that particular one holds up even better. Cheers.
Should I gouge out the old silicone inside the seam down to the thinset or cement board or whatever, or just the stuff on the tile/tub?
Was waiting for this moment when you would use tape. Finally it happened 😁
LOL. Cheers!
Wowzer Awesome. Thank you for sharing
Happy to help!
Highly recommend dripless caulk gun. Cost me like 50% more as it still drops just a bit but MUCH better...more fun!!!
Best man I learn a lot of things from you thanks a lot
I appreciate that! Happy to share my experiences. Cheers!
I have been trying to remove old caulk from around our tub. It’s like concrete and have been trying everything. Any suggestions?
I've carefully used a chisel on that type of caulk.... Phenoseal is a brand that I avoid due to it getting hard as a rock.
on some old metal tubs you may need to use a chisel. in those cases pick up some touch up paint. then tape off the area to be chiseled. when finished apply some repair paint and let dry before using the alcohol to prep. this makes it a 2 day repair but worth it. Cheers!
I've always used DAP, which says it's mold resistant and for bathtubs, sinks, etc. And yet I've been told by a plumber that that's the wrong stuff to use for the tub. So many products say they are for tubs/bathrooms, etc, but I'm told that some are "wrong," like you did at the start of this video. What makes a product right when most of them claim to be right?
I recently learned DAP is cheap garbage
Look for a product that is 100% silicone. If it is paintable, it isn't 100% silicone.
That said, I do believe there are some products that might paintable and fully waterproof but I only ever use silicone products.
I only use the GE advanced 100% silicone, IMO the supreme is overkill and not worth the extra cost
the supreme 100% silicone is the best because it is formulated to bond to everything smooth and glossy. it is also the most durable and stretchy. today tubs are so flexible you need the best product on the market. For a steel tub the advanced is fine but on any acrylic surface the supreme is a no brainer for the extra buck it costs!
@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks
What do you do if your tile is (professionally) painted? I’d like to remove the caulk, but not scrape off the paint.
The tip with the tape 👍
What is the best way to seal the chaulking after use.
Water ready in 30 minutes. But to fully cure, the average silicone caulk takes a minimum of 12 hours to cure. And longer is better, a couple of days would be best. Take a sponge bath if you have to clean yourself more often, it will be worth it to not mess up the caulking job in the long run.
@HomeRenoVisionDIY what percentage of rubbing alcohol did you use?
Thanks!
Next time please get much closer with the camera. It's important to see the details closely
Agreed, I can’t see sh&$
Thanks for the feedback. We’re always looking to improve
I’ve successfully caulked many times and am so confused. You don’t specify things showing each step. Seems more complicated.
You can zoom on RUclips lmao
I re-caulked my tub in June and it looks like c.r.a.p. already lol Thanks for the video!
i plan on doing my caulking as sloppy as possible, with huge globs and smears, to match the warped and discolored shower lining, that has crumbling plaster, rust, paint chips, and a hundred years of calcium buildup growing behind it, so that it matches my vintage green tub, and exposed busted pipes to perfection
Jeff, can you put a link for the bead tool kit? BTW, I am in the US and i looked on amazon but didn’t see it. Thanks
Jeff, how did you read my mind?! I need to redo my caulk because of mold. I bought the stuff a few days ago and was wondering how to do it the right way.
just be cautious when doing the removal if you find mold behind the caulking that means you have water infiltration behind the tile. In those cases I recommend you also seal the grout on the shower wall. Once sealed you may need to replace annually until the walls dry out and the mold stops growing. hopefully the wall stays string enough to avoid the need to replace the shower walls. as well. Cheers!
Hi Jeff, Why do we have to leave water in the tub ? any specific reason ? Thanks
Same reason he stated in the video for why to fill the tub to begin with. You want the caulk to cure while the tub is holding the water weight. If you apply the caulk and then drain before it cures, you risk the caulk separating from the surface because of the flexion of the tub.
@@LaurenR187 Stop talking garbage. I'm a tiler of 40 years & I've never filled the damn bath BECAUSE YOU DON'T HAVE TO IT'S A PATHETIC MYTH ---- IF THE SILICON IS ANY GOOD & IT'S BEEN APPLIED CORRECTLY UNLIKE THIS D.I.Y. AMATEUR TEACHING YOU THE WRONG METHOD, THE SILICON/CAULK WILL FLEX UP TO 1MM WHEN THE TUB IS FULL... OK...! DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GOOSE PUTTING WRONG DEMO'S UP THAT ARE COMPLETELY WRONG..!
😂just replaced my caulk 3 days ago. I was ahead of the game this time 😊
Nice!!
Whoever installed my shower put grout everywhere, including where the wall meets the tub, the corners, and the ceiling. It's like cement and I can't get it out., yet it's cracked. I tried using a blade to cut it out, but it won't budge. Do I need to use one of those circular saws? I might have to hire someone if that's the case.
Great tips thanks for that
Cheers Deanna!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY IT'S THE COMPLETELY WRONG METHOD, STOP TEACHING THEM YOUR D.I.Y. GARBAGE YOU AMATEUR! YOU DON'T USE TAPE WHATSOEVER - WAKE UP..!
From tests it seems like silicone does bind well to silicone? So removing is not very necessary for binding purposes?
As a professional caulker, silicone does bond to silicone. But that is meaningless if the silicone is not bonded to the substrate. Always remove all of the silicone.
@@genecarden780 Makes sense!
I wish tub to tile joints were as uniform and small as yours is there. I usually see situations where the joint is cracked, moldy and leaking water, but the joint itself is 1/4” wide at one end of the tub and 1” wide at the other. Then you are expected to leave a perfectly-finished ripple and sag-free new caulking joint….that’s what happens when someone sets a tub out of level compounded by no foresight on the tile layout.
I'm planning on caulking my tub in a few weeks. This was a very helpful video.
The constant zooming and miss-focus is distracting.
I have never been able to get those plastic silicone remover tools work in the past. Would denatured alcohol help?
Alcohol is nessecery to clean an area where a sealant is later. It to be better for adhesions.
alcohol won't help with the scrapper. if plastic won't work use the metal but be careful around soft materials like acrylic. Cheers! Metal is great on tile. the secret is to keep the blade sharp. once it is nicked it scratches.
When I caulked the tub yesterday, I think I made a big mistake. After I applied the caulking I removed the tape the next day but didn't notice the silicone lifting off.
You don't use tape, this amateur is teaching you the completely wrong method, it's pathetic & should be taken down...!!!!! Tiler of 35 yrs.
I could've used this video 3 weeks ago! LOL. I took the tape off too late.
As mentioned, silicone won't bond to water, so easier/faster to not spend time taping (I made that mistake my first time), but after you spread the caulk, lightly spray a mist bottle of water (no soap, pure water) over it. It can't mix with the silicone. It prevents caulk from pushing under tape, it prevents issues with tape tearing, it prevents caulk on tape getting on other surfaces, etc.
If you use a wet finger to wipe the silicone, it won't stick to your finger and just wipes off. If you use a dry finger, it can drag caulk out of the space! You also then need soap to wash it off your fingers.
When I switched methods, it was much easier, much better looking, and took a fraction of the time for a pro result.
No need to buy a special purpose single use tool either.
I still use tape on the longer runs, I just did a shower stall 6' long and the tape helped a lot on those sections. And as you say use water I don't know why he's so against it.
@@DietBajaBlast Diet don't listen to the Ferret or this amateur D.I.Y. fail teaching you the wrong method. Add a small concentration of dishwashing detergent with water to your spray bottle (not just water, see how easy it wipes off!!), use a paddle pop stick to wipe off (so you don't cut your finger on the sharp tile cut against the bath like this dummy teaches you), then wipe the excess silicon off the paddle pop stick onto a small bit of carpet or rag & continue to wipe off..! YOU DON'T NEED TO USE TAPE, THIS JOKE IS TEACHING YOU THE COMPLETELY WRONG METHOD..!
Tiler of 35yrs.
I have found that pushing works better than pulling when applying caulk
Oh wow that's what I didn't do was fill my tub before I caulked. A crack formed almost right away 😢😢😢
Good video, i suggest if your going to show suggested tools ,that you name what they are, not just random links with no name.
I once saw a video with a guy applying silicone and he said not to use your finger because you would be transferring bacteria from your finger onto the silicone and this will also cause mold.
the secret is to wash your hands first. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY THE SECRET IS TO USE A PADDLE POP STICK TO WIPE IT OFF YOU AMATEUR..! (FOR A BETTER WIPE & SO YOU DON'T CUT YOUR FINGER ON THE CUT TILE EDGE..!)
STOP TEACHING THEM THESE PATHETIC METHOD'S OK.....!.. ALL ASPECT'S OF THIS VIDEO YOU'RE TEACHING THEM IS WRONG & SHOULD BE TAKEN DOWN - YOU DON'T USE TAPE WHATSOEVER THAT'S PATHETIC..!!!
Good your video
Except he teaches you the completely wrong method..!
I used that ge silicone for the kitchen sink. It looks like mold is just on top of the silicone and I tried to bleach it but it didnt remove it. But it is only on a section of the silicone. So the sink is 30inch long. and the mold is only on like 3 in of the silicone. Why is that?
sometimes organics get trapped in the silicone while drying or were left on the surface during install. once organics get wet the mold spores in the air attach themselves and then it grows. mold needs water food and a spore and that is it. a kitchen sink is very easy to find all 3 . Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY bleach didn't remove it so does that mean I have to redo the whole thing or can I just redo that section?
try one section at a time. in most cases that will be sufficient!
Silicone or grout caulk?
What about automotive seam sealer. Forty buck for a tube like his.
You dont need these bead smooyhing tools. A talented finger will do the job just fine. (Plus the proper amount of aulk applied. Best to do too little than too much. You can add caulk as needed on the bead.) His tips on old caulk removal are on the money. Practice makes perfect is what I have found.
Stop talking garbage. Use a paddle pop stick to wipe off you joke. It's a better wipe plus you won't cut your finger against the sharp tile edge...!!!!!!
You said fill in with water but while you were applying silicone the mass of the water in the tub was much lower than your own when you were in so you'd probably be better off putting bead in while kneeling in the tub than having nearly empty tub that is far from person +water mass
My tub stopper wasn’t working very well but the show must go on. Good catch
How do you bleach caulking?
I like to mix bleach with baking powder to make a paste and apply with toothbrush. Let it sit for an hour or two then scrub it off.
u took off all the silicone !!!
Jeff: “That’s extreme - just making a point”
Me: “What do you mean extreme? That’s me just getting warmed up!” I’m an overcaulker.
You dont need to use the tape. Caulk it and spray the bottle of glass cleaner over it and wipe with finger. Caulk wont stick to the glass cleaner and it all comes off except for the bead. The light blue lid can.
never add glass cleaner or soapy water to a silicone job. this is a gimmick to make things look good but always negatively affects the integrity of the installation.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Its ammonia free and does a great job. Never had any issues and so much easier with no taping. 🤙
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY its not a gimmick. its widely know and used. No one tapes 😂
@@bryanbuck6273 And a professional never uses anything but a profiling tool. Jeff is spot on but a Cramer Fugi set eliminates the need for tape
The soapy water woulda done wonders at the end when you removed the tape.
never use water as a part of a silicone installation. always destroys the integrity of what you are doing.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I always use water, a little, because the silicone will stick to anything you try to pull a line with. I only redo my silicone lines once every 10 to 12 years, so it can be done.
Waste of a microfiber cloth. Use paper towels to dispose of excess material.
its a cheap shop wipe, not really microfiber. better wipe than household paper towel. though I use both for caulking
cheap blue shop wipe you mean
They are cheap it doesn’t matter
When you first putting a tub in you must fill tub with water to help it settle then silicone it
There is no need for tape. Easy to apply it if you have the skill😊
Back in the late 70s American olean tile and Dow Corning had a create a product called a Master set. It was basically 12 tile silicone together with Dow Corning silicone. They trained there installers like my father to work with silicone! They removable tips on there tube's made for feild joints as well as the standard tip. Two key items are used to tool the silicone! Denatured alcohol and cotton cheese cloth! The Denatured alcohol goes into a misting spray bottle and is used to clean prior and during the caulking process. One you have applied the silicone you spray it down with the Denatured alcohol and tool most of the excess with your finger. After that is done take a piece of the cheese cloth 12 inch square and wrap the tip of your finger with some of this cheese cloth square and begin to remove the excess on the sides of the joist. You will continue to do this changing the area of the cheese cloth you are used and clean it out the best you can. Paper towels are best for the excess caulking you accumulated.
I've always heard to use a wet finger and run on top of it.
It doesn't look perfect but spraying down with denatured alcohol and smoothing with finger works well. Not a fan of the tape idea.
Your amazon link is 47$ for the silicone ... it's a 18$ product at home depot.
Our bad contractor used porous caulking not silicon.
skillfull musculine good looking Jeff